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(Nicole) So, you've ridden 
a gondola in Venice,

2
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eaten gelato in Florence,

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you think you've seen Italy;

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you haven't.

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No one earns that badge
till they've been to Naples.

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Naples is not for the faint of hearts,

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it's crowded,

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chaotic,

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and tatted up.

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But man, does this place has soul!

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It's full of characters

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and around every corner

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it's a diamond in the rough.

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That's what kept me coming back here

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for two decades.

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And just when I think 
I've gotten a hand along her,

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she surprises me.

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So, this time, I've come with backup.

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- (Nicole) Buongiorno.
- (Francesca) Buongiorno, Nicole.

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(Nicole) I'm heading
the historic quarter with Francesca,

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my woman on the inside.

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She's a local expert with context,

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guiding urban explorers
who want to go deeper.

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In this area is where
I first fell in love with Naples

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- because it is full of life, right?
- (Francesca) Yeah, scooters!

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(Laughter)

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- (Nicole) it's never boring!
- (Francesca) That's true!

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(Nicole) Never boring!

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(Music)
(Nicole) I'm here on a mission.

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In our last episode,
I spent a day in Amalfi

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where I discovered how lemons

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are literally saving 
the town from disaster.

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Now, I'm in the big city,

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to learn how lemons have inspired
Italian cooking and culture.

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(Music)

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After the requisite coffee --

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(speaking Italian)

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we start at the beginning.

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(Nicole) Naples was first settled
by the ancient Greeks,

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this was the site of the Agora,

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and later the Roman forum.

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Francesca shows me
two Corinthians columns,

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lone survivors of a first century temple,

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incorporated into de facade
of a XVII century church.

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This is what exciting about Naples,

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it's a [ ] story;

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story you can walk right up to and touch,

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if you know what you're looking at.

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To outsiders, Naples can seem incrustable,

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it's hard to know where
history ends and myth begins,

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where faith fuses with superstition.

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Just look at these 
hand-made nativity scenes,

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a quintessential Neapolitan fixation.

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You got modern figures
witnessing the virgin birth,

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and there, under the terracota produce

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I spot them --

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(Nicole) All these fake lemons
make me crave the real thing,

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so we head over to Cafeteria Hipolito
where they have --

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(Nicole) Yes!

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- (Nicole) Yes, medicinal, right?
- (Francesca) Medicinal.

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(Nicole) I think we should have 
a little bit of medicine, then, shall we?

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I think we should.

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(Music)

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This looks like... a sugar bomb!


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(Nicole) Right here is a sponge cake
filled with lemon cream,

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covered with chantilly cream.

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(Music)

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Okay, so delizia al limone, 
not really my thing,

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a little bit too sugary, 
a little bit too creamy,

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but it was fun, it's lemons,
that's what we're doing here, right?

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Luckily, it's nearly lunch time.

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We're headed to a friend's apartment,

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where Francesca has arranged
for me to learn from a local chef

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a perfect Neapolitan summer dish,

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but of course, we can't arrive
empty-handed.

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3:51