0:00:03.659,0:00:06.279
(Nicole) So, you've ridden[br]a gondola in Venice,

0:00:06.279,0:00:08.390
eaten gelato in Florence,

0:00:08.390,0:00:10.380
you think you've seen Italy;

0:00:10.380,0:00:11.309
you haven't.

0:00:11.309,0:00:15.215
No one earns that badge[br]until they've been to Naples.

0:00:17.670,0:00:20.150
Naples is not for the faint of hearts,

0:00:20.150,0:00:21.130
it's crowded,

0:00:21.130,0:00:22.060
chaotic,

0:00:22.060,0:00:23.230
and tatted up.

0:00:23.230,0:00:26.309
But man, does this place have soul.

0:00:26.980,0:00:28.640
It's full of characters

0:00:28.640,0:00:30.000
and around every corner

0:00:30.000,0:00:31.750
it's a diamond in the rough.

0:00:31.750,0:00:33.470
That's what kept me coming back here

0:00:33.470,0:00:34.920
for two decades.

0:00:34.920,0:00:37.790
And just when I think[br]I've got a handle on her,

0:00:37.790,0:00:38.860
she surprises me.

0:00:38.860,0:00:40.739
So, this time, I've come with backup.

0:00:40.739,0:00:41.599
Buongiorno.

0:00:41.599,0:00:42.880
Buongiorno, Nicole.

0:00:42.880,0:00:46.080
(Nicole) I'm hitting[br]the historic quarter with Francesca,

0:00:46.080,0:00:47.770
my woman on the inside.

0:00:47.770,0:00:50.120
She's a local expert with Context,

0:00:50.120,0:00:53.105
guiding urban explorers[br]who want to go deeper.

0:00:53.809,0:00:56.561
In this area is where[br]I first fell in love with Naples

0:00:56.561,0:00:59.000
because it is full of life, right?

0:00:59.000,0:01:00.630
- (Francesca) Scooters![br]- (Nicole) Yes!

0:01:00.630,0:01:01.630
(Laughter)

0:01:01.630,0:01:04.090
- (Nicole) it's never boring![br]- (Francesca) That's true!

0:01:04.274,0:01:06.174
(Music)

0:01:06.304,0:01:07.750
(Nicole) I'm here on a mission.

0:01:07.750,0:01:10.369
In our last episode,[br]I spent a day in Amalfi

0:01:10.369,0:01:12.069
where I discovered how lemons

0:01:12.069,0:01:14.970
are literally saving[br]the town from disaster.

0:01:14.970,0:01:16.860
Now, I'm in the big city,

0:01:16.860,0:01:21.150
to learn how lemons have inspired[br]Italian cooking and culture.

0:01:21.150,0:01:22.610
(Music)

0:01:22.610,0:01:23.990
After the requisite coffee --

0:01:25.149,0:01:27.140
We start at the beginning.

0:01:27.330,0:01:29.760
(Francesca) So my town has got

0:01:29.760,0:01:32.650
almost 3,000 years of life.

0:01:32.650,0:01:36.310
(Nicole) Naples was first settled[br]by the ancient Greeks,

0:01:36.310,0:01:38.530
this was the site of the Agora,

0:01:38.530,0:01:40.200
and later the Roman Forum.

0:01:40.200,0:01:43.410
Francesca shows me[br]two Corinthians columns,

0:01:43.410,0:01:46.750
lone survivors of a first century temple,

0:01:46.750,0:01:50.946
incorporated into de facade[br]of a 17th century church.

0:01:51.330,0:01:53.840
This is what exciting about Naples,

0:01:53.840,0:01:56.490
it's a haphazard layer-cake of stories;

0:01:56.490,0:01:59.220
stories you can[br]walk right up to and touch,

0:01:59.220,0:02:01.104
if you know what you're looking at.

0:02:02.670,0:02:05.920
To outsiders, Naples can seem inscrutable,

0:02:05.920,0:02:09.139
it's hard to know where[br]history ends and myth begins,

0:02:09.139,0:02:11.931
where faith fuses with superstition.

0:02:12.120,0:02:14.860
Just look at these[br]handmade nativity scenes,

0:02:14.860,0:02:17.990
a quintessentially Neapolitan fixation.

0:02:17.990,0:02:21.763
You got modern-day figures[br]witnessing the virgin birth,

0:02:21.763,0:02:24.480
and there, amid the terracota produce

0:02:24.480,0:02:25.480
I spot them --

0:02:25.480,0:02:26.840
(Francesca) This was very typical,

0:02:26.840,0:02:28.730
there were people selling in the streets

0:02:29.450,0:02:31.220
fresh lemon juice.

0:02:31.500,0:02:33.900
(Nicole) And those lemons [br]would have come up from the coast.

0:02:33.900,0:02:36.810
(Francesca) The best lemons are[br]from Amalfi and from Sorrento.

0:02:37.010,0:02:38.680
(Music)

0:02:38.800,0:02:41.710
(Nicole) All these fake lemons[br]make me crave the real thing,

0:02:41.780,0:02:45.220
so we head over to Cafeteria Ippolito[br]where they have --

0:02:45.220,0:02:47.810
(Francesca) Delizie al limone [br]-- the lemon delight.

0:02:47.810,0:02:49.040
We use a lot of lemons.

0:02:49.040,0:02:51.630
Actually, we have[br]a lot of lemons in our gardens --

0:02:51.630,0:02:53.930
- (Nicole) Yes![br]- (Francesca) and our balconies.

0:02:53.930,0:02:58.430
There were a lot of monastery cloisters[br]that had these plants,

0:02:58.430,0:03:02.690
also because they were [br]considered like healing plants.

0:03:02.690,0:03:05.090
- (Nicole) Yes, medicinal, right?[br]- (Francesca) Medicinal.

0:03:05.310,0:03:08.960
I think we should have[br]a little bit of medicine then, shall we?

0:03:09.150,0:03:10.320
I think we should.

0:03:10.430,0:03:12.270
(Music)

0:03:12.520,0:03:14.050
(Nicole) Thank you!

0:03:14.170,0:03:17.420
This looks like... a sugar bomb!

0:03:17.420,0:03:18.890
(Laughter)

0:03:19.060,0:03:21.810
Layers of sponge cake[br]filled with lemon cream,

0:03:21.810,0:03:23.810
covered with Chantilly cream.

0:03:23.810,0:03:25.230
(Music)

0:03:25.230,0:03:28.880
Okay, so delizie al limone,[br]not really my thing,

0:03:28.880,0:03:31.180
a little bit too sugary,[br]a little bit too creamy,

0:03:31.180,0:03:34.685
but it was fun, it's lemons,[br]that's what we're doing here, right?

0:03:35.580,0:03:37.560
Luckily, it's nearly lunchtime,

0:03:37.560,0:03:39.209
we're headed to a friend's apartment

0:03:39.209,0:03:42.330
where Francesca has arranged[br]for me to learn from a local chef

0:03:42.330,0:03:44.930
a perfect Neapolitan summer dish,

0:03:44.930,0:03:47.882
but of course,[br]we can't arrive empty-handed.

0:03:48.350,0:03:52.133
This is a salumeria from 1864,[br]let's check it out!

0:03:54.420,0:03:57.240
(Music)

0:04:00.130,0:04:01.809
(Nicole) Thank you!

0:04:02.590,0:04:03.860
We got our cheese,

0:04:03.860,0:04:04.920
our bread,

0:04:04.920,0:04:05.833
and lemons.

0:04:06.330,0:04:07.580
And this being Naples,

0:04:07.580,0:04:10.240
we bought them all[br]from specialty purveyors,

0:04:10.240,0:04:12.180
who have been doing this forever.

0:04:13.060,0:04:15.079
It's time for spaghetti al limone!

0:04:15.079,0:04:16.368
Let's go!

0:04:16.468,0:04:19.738
(Music)

0:04:21.538,0:04:23.840
We arrived at a friend's[br]fabulous apartment

0:04:23.840,0:04:25.320
to cook with Antonio,

0:04:25.320,0:04:29.280
who's whipped up dishes[br]in top kitchens in Italy and England.

0:04:30.210,0:04:31.066
Ciao!

0:04:31.136,0:04:32.097
(Laughter)

0:04:32.167,0:04:35.007
(Music)

0:04:37.920,0:04:40.120
(Nicole) This is spaghetti al limone!

0:04:40.120,0:04:43.880
A dish that Neapolitans crave[br]when summer hits

0:04:43.880,0:04:45.780
and lemons are at their peak.

0:04:45.780,0:04:46.960
To make it you'll need:

0:04:46.960,0:04:48.390
(Antonio) Double cream,

0:04:48.390,0:04:49.390
parmesan,

0:04:49.390,0:04:50.720
dry red chili,

0:04:50.720,0:04:51.550
garlic,

0:04:51.550,0:04:52.610
butter,

0:04:52.610,0:04:54.160
lemon from Sorrento,

0:04:54.160,0:04:55.160
parsley,

0:04:55.160,0:04:56.600
and obviously the linguine.

0:04:56.600,0:04:57.440
Let's go!

0:04:57.440,0:05:00.169
(Nicole) Okay, half zest,[br]half juice of the lemon.

0:05:00.169,0:05:01.369
(Music)

0:05:01.369,0:05:02.149
(Nicole) More?

0:05:02.149,0:05:04.789
- (Antonio) Go, go, go --[br]- (Nicole) You can't have too much lemon!

0:05:04.789,0:05:07.190
(Antonio) Yeah, specially [br]if they are from the Amalfi coast.

0:05:07.190,0:05:08.950
(Nicole) And everything[br]right into the cream?

0:05:08.950,0:05:09.970
(Antonio) Yeah.

0:05:09.970,0:05:11.150
And the reason why we do that

0:05:11.150,0:05:12.950
it's because we don't want[br]to cook the zest,

0:05:12.950,0:05:14.990
because it's already bitter,

0:05:14.990,0:05:17.190
if you cook it, it'll be even more bitter.

0:05:17.190,0:05:18.190
Perfect.

0:05:18.190,0:05:19.190
Nice smell.

0:05:19.190,0:05:23.740
(Nicole) Smell this, come on, so good!

0:05:23.870,0:05:26.010
(Music)

0:05:26.090,0:05:29.876
(Nicole) Next, we chop garlic,[br]chili and parsley.

0:05:30.220,0:05:32.050
A lot of people,[br]at least where I come from,

0:05:32.050,0:05:38.070
think of Italian food as tomato sauce[br]and olive oil, not butter and cream.

0:05:38.070,0:05:41.260
(Antonio) We already have[br]the lemons, which are bitter,

0:05:41.260,0:05:44.820
so the olive oil, especially[br]the extra virgin olive oil is bitter,

0:05:44.820,0:05:46.490
so you don't want to have too much --

0:05:46.490,0:05:48.257
- (Nicole) Too much bitterness.[br]- (Antonio) Exactly.

0:05:49.180,0:05:52.199
(Nicole) Antonio melts de butter[br]with the parsley, garlic and chili.

0:05:52.199,0:05:55.780
(Antonio) This is basically[br]a very, very simple dish

0:05:55.780,0:05:58.970
and everyone can do that,[br]but you need the right ingredients.

0:05:58.970,0:06:00.940
(Nicole) Good quality ingredients.

0:06:00.940,0:06:01.940
(Antonio) Absolutely.

0:06:01.940,0:06:06.060
(Nicole) And patience,[br]that's the hardest ingredient to find.

0:06:06.060,0:06:07.970
(Antonio) You always need patience.

0:06:08.830,0:06:11.806
(Nicole) We add the lemon creme[br]until it's just warm through.

0:06:12.350,0:06:16.860
(Antonio) Now, the king[br]I say in Italy - parmesan.

0:06:17.430,0:06:22.049
Okay, the pasta is boiling...[br]that's, the water is boiling

0:06:23.379,0:06:26.470
and we're going to open the pasta[br]in the Italian way --

0:06:26.470,0:06:28.020
(Nicole) Whoaaaa!

0:06:28.080,0:06:30.290
(Music) (Laughter)

0:06:30.380,0:06:33.540
(Nicole) Antonio says it should come out[br]slightly undercooked but,

0:06:33.540,0:06:35.170
how does he know when that is?

0:06:35.170,0:06:39.150
(Antonio) I'm going to just touch it[br]and I know, I know it's the right time.

0:06:39.150,0:06:40.420
(Nicole) The pasta whisperer --

0:06:40.420,0:06:41.290
(Laughter)

0:06:41.290,0:06:43.795
(Antonio) It will actually [br]tell me, "I'm ready" --

0:06:45.010,0:06:47.340
(Nicole) I'm going to listen[br]and see if it tells me that --

0:06:47.340,0:06:48.600
(Laughter)

0:06:48.600,0:06:53.620
(Nicole) It doesn't, but 8 minutes later,[br]it tells Antonio it's ready for the sauce.

0:06:54.550,0:06:57.550
He tosses the pasta as only[br]a professional chef could.

0:06:57.550,0:07:00.340
I'd have spaghetti down[br]my blouse doing that.

0:07:00.340,0:07:04.070
A couple of pinches of salt[br]and he ladles some hot pasta water

0:07:04.070,0:07:06.460
until the linguine is fully cooked.

0:07:06.460,0:07:09.170
More parmesan and more lemon zest.

0:07:09.170,0:07:12.063
(Antonio) That will give you[br]the smell, you know.

0:07:12.363,0:07:14.370
- (Nicole) To the table?[br]- (Antonio) To the table.

0:07:14.480,0:07:16.590
(Music)

0:07:18.225,0:07:20.785
We used linguine instead of spaghetti[br]which has more surface area

0:07:20.785,0:07:21.827
for the sauce to cling to.

0:07:23.280,0:07:24.606
There we go --

0:07:27.310,0:07:31.019
(Nicole) After a long walk,[br]we're finally feeding you.

0:07:31.110,0:07:33.027
(Laughter)

0:07:33.270,0:07:34.320
(Francesca) Buon appetito!

0:07:34.320,0:07:35.450
(Antonio) Buon appetito!

0:07:36.000,0:07:37.740
(Music)

0:07:41.520,0:07:44.050
To Naples' new friends and limone!

0:07:44.140,0:07:45.820
(Laughter)

0:07:45.909,0:07:48.390
(Music)