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Esto es "Marketplace".
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Guau.
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Pijamas, vestidos viejos.
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¡Oh, Dios mío!
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¿Dónde acaba la ropa vieja realmente?
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A la larga, va a acabar en el vertedero.
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Seguimos su rastro por todo el mundo.
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El alto coste de la moda rápida.
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Este es tu "Marketplace".
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Estoy aquí echando un vistazo
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a algunas de las mayores
cadenas de moda del mundo,
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pero no para comprar ropa nueva.
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Estoy intentando librarme
de parte de mi ropa vieja.
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Estos son mis pantalones de chándal
preferidos de la universidad.
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Esto lo lavé y encogió.
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Esto era superbarato.
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Esto es como una camiseta vieja.
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Esto en algún momento fue negro.
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Algunos minoristas tienen una misión.
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Quieren la ropa tú ya no quieres
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y algunos compiten
con organizaciones benéficas por ella.
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Hay un contenedor nuevo en la ciudad
y el mensaje es claro:
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No tires la ropa vieja a la basura,
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échala aquí.
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Aceptan cortinas, aceptan vaqueros.
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Incluso aceptan tu ropa interior vieja.
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Deposita la ropa vieja y recibe un cupón
para ahorrar cuando compres ropa nueva.
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Pero antes de separarme de mi ropa vieja,
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tengo alguna pregunta más.
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Estos contenedores
hacen que nos sintamos bien.
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¿Pero hacen tanto bien como creemos?
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¡Mirad esto!
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¡Mirad estas bolsas!
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La mayoría de nosotros
somos como los Breton y los Palma
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de Markham, en Ontario.
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De alguna forma,
acabamos teniendo demasiada ropa.
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Emily, ¿qué hay aquí adentro?
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Ropa vieja que me está pequeña.
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Hacen limpieza varias veces al año.
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Generalmente depositan el cargamento
en un contenedor benéfico.
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¡Guau!
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Estas cosas tienen agujeros.
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Esto no es solo un montón de ropa.
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Ahora es un montón de residuos textiles.
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Y queremos que los niños vean
la enormidad del problema.
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Chicos, ¿estáis listos para entrar
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y ver qué pasa
con toda esa ropa que donáis?
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- Sí.
- Bien. Vayamos adentro.
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Entrad, echad un vistazo.
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¡Guau!
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- ¡Ropa! ¡Ropa!
- Todo eso es ropa.
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- ¡Ropa!
- ¿Lo veis?
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- Oh, Dios mío.
- ¡Ropa!
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Vaya locura de montón.
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Y no te lo pierdas,
todo esto es lo que sobra,
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lo que no quiere nadie.
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Lo que no se vende
en las tiendas de segunda mano.
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Toda esa ropa que juntasteis ayer
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puede acabar aquí.
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Es mucha ropa.
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No es lo que esperaba ver.
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Un almacén,
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más de 90 000 kg
de residuos textiles a la semana.
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Y eso solo de Toronto y alrededores.
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00:03:00,743 --> 00:03:03,076
En todo el país,
hay otras nueve ubicaciones
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parecidas a esta.
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El el último año o dos,
hubo un aumento del 15 al 20 %
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en el volumen total de textiles entrantes.
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00:03:10,446 --> 00:03:14,624
Tonny Colyn es la responsable de donaciones del Ejército de Salvación en Canada.
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¿Cómo crees que la moda rápida ha influido... en esto?
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En todo esto.
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Ha tenido un gran impacto.
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Y todas esas cosas
tienen que acabar en algún sitio.
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Los padres de esas dos familias,
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Michael Palma y Norman Breton,
no se lo pueden creer.
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Sus abrigos y botas a lo mejor aún están bien,
pero quieren cosas nuevas.
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La cuestión importante
es si lo necesitan o si lo quieren.
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Muchas veces quieren cosas
y no las necesitan.
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Aun así, parece tenemos prisa
en echarle mano a la moda rápida.
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Ropa barata, a la última y desechable.
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E incluso presumimos de ello.
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Y acabé con una bolsa llena de ropa.
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Todos compramos demasiado,
un 400 % más desde los 80.
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La calidad no es muy buena,
pero los precios son fantásticos.
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00:04:01,314 --> 00:04:04,994
Pero no toda nuestra ropa vieja
llega al contenedor de las donaciones.
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00:04:04,994 --> 00:04:09,299
La mayor parte, el 85 %,
acaba en el vertedero.
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00:04:10,791 --> 00:04:16,358
En Norteamérica, se calcula que son
más de 12 milliones de kilos al año.
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Solo en Canada, imagina una montaña
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tres veces mayor
que el estadio Rogers Centre.
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No se biodegradan fácilmente
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porque mucha ropa está hecha
con tejido que no se descompone,
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que libera sustancias químicas y tintes
en nuestros ríos y nuestra tierra.
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En parte, por eso la que la moda es uno de los mayores contaminantes del mundo.
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Durante los últimos años,
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algunas de las marcas
más importantes del sector,
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Levi's, Nike, Adidas, Zara,
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han iniciado programas de reciclaje.
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Todos los minoristas con contenedores de donaciones en las tiendas
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piden tu ropa vieja.
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Pero nadie va tan lejos como H&M.
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Lo aceptan todo: vaqueros,
cortinas, incluso ropa interior.
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Solo hay que mirar sus anuncios.
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Eso que nunca te has puesto.
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Esto y esto y aquello.
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Lo que es de ese color
que ya no es tu color.
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Tráelo.
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Esta es una
de las últimas campañas de H&M.
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Cortar tus vaqueros en pedazos
y con ellos hacer unos nuevos.
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"Cortar tus vaqueros en pedazos
y con ellos hacer unos nuevos".
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Con tu ayuda, literalmente convertimos
tu ropa vieja en prendas nuevas.
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"Literalmente convertimos
tu ropa vieja en prendas nuevas".
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Las prendas
que están en las peores condiciones
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pueden transformarse en material aislante
o fibras textiles para tejer telas,
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que vuelven a nacer
como ropa nueva de toda clase.
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¿Qué piensas de que se recicle la ropa?
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Me parece fantástico. Es una gran idea.
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Estamos hablando de reciclar la ropa.
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¿Qué crees que pasa con toda la ropa?
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Creo que a lo mejor
es como que la renuevan
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y hacen que parezca nueva otra vez.
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¿Qué crees que le pasa a toda la ropa?
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¿No la reciclan para hacer ropa nueva
a partir de la vieja?
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Triturémosla hasta hacerla fibras
y cosámosla para hacer algo nuevo.
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Lo único que no haremos
será desperdiciarla.
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Son afirmaciones audaces sobre el reciclaje.
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Suenan genial, ¿pero realmente lo son?
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Para intentar averiguarlo,
viajamos a Nueva York,
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una de las capitales mundiales
de la moda...
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Siempre hay que mirar
el forro de las chaquetas.
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...Para conocer a Elizabeteh Cline,
una activista antimoda rápida.
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Debido a todo lo que sabe,
solo lleva ropa de segunda mano.
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Eso la ha convertido en una profesional
en valorar los descartes.
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En un abrigo, lo primero que se hace es ver si funcionan las cremalleras.
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Sobre todo en la moda rápida,
los cierres se rompen
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y astillan enseguida.
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Le enseñamos la campaña de H&M
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y le preguntamos qué piensa de hacer ropa nueva a partir de la vieja.
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Triturémosla hasta hacerla fibras
y cosámosla para hacer algo nuevo.
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La realidad es que en la actualidad, solo el 1 % de la ropa está realmente reciclada
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en el sentido literal de la palabra.
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- ¿El 1 %?
- 1 %.
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El 1 %... ¿reciclada?
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Si te refieres a reciclar
en cuanto a tomar fibras
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y descomponerlas
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y convirtiéndolas en fibras nuevas, el 1 %.
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¿Por qué cuesta tanto
tomar mi vieja camiseta
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y convertirla en una nueva?
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¿Por qué no se puede hacer?
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Mucha de nuestra ropa
está hecha de fibras mezcladas.
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00:07:36,887 --> 00:07:41,927
A lo mejor esto es una mezcla
de acrílico, lana y algodón,
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a lo mejor mis medias
son de algodón y licra.
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Eso lo hace difícil de reciclar.
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El otro reto
es que cuando reciclas algodón y lana,
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se reduce la calidad de ese material,
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por lo que el filamento se debilita
y se consigue un producto inferior.
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00:08:00,873 --> 00:08:05,130
En resumen, la tecnología
aún no está en ese punto.
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Fabricar ropa nueva a partir de la vieja
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00:08:08,454 --> 00:08:10,701
todavía es demasiado caro y laborioso.
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Mi parte más escéptica
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00:08:13,417 --> 00:08:17,723
sabe que la razón por la que H&M
se centra en el reciclaje textil
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es porque para ellos es una victoria fácil.
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