0:00:00.891,0:00:02.057
This is "Marketplace."

0:00:02.435,0:00:03.537
Whoa.

0:00:04.690,0:00:06.472
Pajamas, old dresses.

0:00:06.472,0:00:08.441
Oh, my gosh!

0:00:08.441,0:00:11.411
Where do all your old clothes[br]really end up?

0:00:11.411,0:00:14.680
Ultimately, it is going[br]to end up in a landfill.

0:00:14.680,0:00:16.983
We follow the trail around the world.

0:00:18.884,0:00:21.447
The high cost of fast fashion.

0:00:21.447,0:00:23.171
This is your "Marketplace."

0:00:23.556,0:00:26.859
I'm here checking out some of[br]the biggest fashion chains in the world,

0:00:26.859,0:00:29.362
but I'm not shopping for new clothes.

0:00:29.362,0:00:31.978
I'm actually trying to get rid of[br]some of my old ones.

0:00:33.032,0:00:37.252
So these are my all-time favorite[br]sweatpants from college.

0:00:38.504,0:00:41.248
These, I washed them[br]and they totally shrunk.

0:00:41.569,0:00:43.099
These were also super cheap.

0:00:43.353,0:00:45.056
This is just like an old T-shirt.

0:00:45.812,0:00:47.947
It was black at one point in its life.

0:00:49.613,0:00:51.684
Some retailers are on a mission.

0:00:51.684,0:00:53.487
They want your unwanted clothes,

0:00:53.487,0:00:56.042
and some are competing[br]with charities for it.

0:00:56.922,0:01:00.323
There's a new bin in town and[br]the message is clear:

0:01:00.323,0:01:02.976
Don't throw old clothes in the garbage,

0:01:02.976,0:01:04.396
dump them here.

0:01:04.703,0:01:06.900
They'll take curtains, they'll take jeans.

0:01:06.900,0:01:08.967
They'll even take your old underwear.

0:01:11.070,0:01:13.272
Drop off old clothes and get a coupon

0:01:13.272,0:01:15.708
to save money when you buy new ones.

0:01:16.568,0:01:18.911
But before I part with my old clothes,

0:01:18.911,0:01:21.080
I've got a few more questions.

0:01:21.080,0:01:23.983
These bins sure make us all feel good.

0:01:23.983,0:01:26.562
But are they doing as much good[br]as we think?

0:01:28.221,0:01:29.322
Look at this!

0:01:29.322,0:01:30.923
Look at these bags!

0:01:31.497,0:01:33.883
Most of us are like[br]the Bretons and the Palmas

0:01:33.883,0:01:35.187
in Markham, Ontario.

0:01:35.802,0:01:38.306
Somehow, we end up with too many clothes.

0:01:38.605,0:01:39.780
Emily, what's in here?

0:01:39.780,0:01:41.811
Old clothes that are too small for me.

0:01:42.502,0:01:44.637
They purge a few times a year,

0:01:44.637,0:01:46.856
normally dropping their[br]haul in a charity bin.

0:01:47.289,0:01:48.304
Whoa!

0:01:48.617,0:01:50.610
Stuff like these have holes in them.

0:01:50.610,0:01:52.845
This isn't just a pile of clothes.

0:01:52.845,0:01:55.948
It's now a pile of textile waste.

0:01:55.948,0:02:00.083
And we want to show the kids[br]just how big the problem really is.

0:02:03.591,0:02:05.235
Are you guys ready to go inside

0:02:05.235,0:02:07.995
and see what happens to all[br]those clothes that you donate?

0:02:07.995,0:02:09.007
Yes

0:02:09.007,0:02:10.362
All right. Let's go inside.

0:02:12.118,0:02:13.909
Go on in, take a look.

0:02:14.649,0:02:16.685
Whoa!

0:02:21.424,0:02:22.865
Clothes! Clothes!

0:02:23.275,0:02:24.467
That's clothes.

0:02:25.137,0:02:26.345
Do you see that?

0:02:26.345,0:02:27.657
Oh, my gosh.

0:02:27.757,0:02:28.781
Clothes!

0:02:29.481,0:02:31.417
That's a crazy pile.

0:02:31.918,0:02:36.075
And get this, all of this[br]is what's leftover,

0:02:36.075,0:02:38.346
the stuff no one wants.

0:02:38.624,0:02:41.000
The stuff that thrift stores can't sell.

0:02:41.260,0:02:43.585
All those clothes you guys[br]piled up yesterday,

0:02:43.796,0:02:45.671
this is where it can end up.

0:02:45.966,0:02:47.332
It's a lot of clothes.

0:02:47.581,0:02:49.482
It wasn't what I was expecting to see.

0:02:49.935,0:02:51.265
One warehouse,

0:02:51.265,0:02:56.038
more than 200,000 pounds[br]of textile waste each week.

0:02:56.375,0:02:59.918
And that's just from in[br]and around Toronto.

0:03:00.803,0:03:03.166
Across the country,[br]we've got nine other locations

0:03:03.166,0:03:04.190
similar to this one.

0:03:04.190,0:03:07.661
The last year or two years,[br]probably a 15 to 20% growth

0:03:07.661,0:03:10.270
in the overall volume of textiles[br]that are coming in.

0:03:10.556,0:03:14.424
Tonny Colyn is the head of donations[br]for Salvation Army Canada.

0:03:14.894,0:03:18.729
So, how do you think fast[br]fashion has impacted...this?

0:03:19.198,0:03:20.243
All of this.

0:03:20.393,0:03:22.138
It's had a massive effect.

0:03:22.138,0:03:24.237
And all of that stuff has to go somewhere.

0:03:24.237,0:03:26.272
The dads of these two families,

0:03:26.272,0:03:30.064
Michael Palma and Norman Breton[br]can't believe it.

0:03:30.375,0:03:34.314
Their coats or boots might be okay,[br]but they want something new.

0:03:34.591,0:03:36.959
If they need or if they want,[br]it's a big question.

0:03:36.959,0:03:39.529
A lot of times they want stuff[br]but they don't need it.

0:03:40.809,0:03:45.377
Still, we can't seem to get our hands[br]on fast fashion fast enough.

0:03:45.735,0:03:47.881
Cheap, trendy, disposable clothes.

0:03:48.285,0:03:50.416
And we're even bragging about it.

0:03:50.663,0:03:52.932
And I ended up with a bag full of clothes.

0:03:52.932,0:03:57.135
We're all buying too much,[br]400% more, since the 1980's.

0:03:57.670,0:04:01.330
The quality isn't all that great,[br]but the prices are fantastic.

0:04:01.372,0:04:04.822
But not all of our old clothes[br]make it to the donation bin.

0:04:05.144,0:04:09.259
Most of it, 85%, ends up in landfills.

0:04:10.991,0:04:16.558
In North America, it's estimated to be[br]at least 25 billion pounds a year.

0:04:17.453,0:04:20.178
In Canada alone, imagine a mountain

0:04:20.178,0:04:24.343
three times the size of[br]Toronto's Rogers Centre Stadium

0:04:24.883,0:04:27.215
Where they don't biodegrade easily

0:04:27.215,0:04:30.888
because many are made with fabrics[br]that can't be broken down.

0:04:32.312,0:04:36.163
Releasing chemicals and dyes[br]into our rivers, soil.

0:04:37.109,0:04:41.571
That's part of the reason why fashion[br]is one of the world's top polluters.

0:04:45.478,0:04:47.038
So in the last few years,

0:04:47.144,0:04:52.666
some of the biggest names in the business:[br]Levi's, Nike, Adidas, Zara

0:04:52.666,0:04:54.734
have started recycling programs.

0:04:55.272,0:05:00.352
All retailers with donation bins in stores[br]calling out for your old garments.

0:05:00.658,0:05:02.735
But none go as far as H&M.

0:05:03.168,0:05:06.485
They will take anything: jeans,[br]curtains, even underwear.

0:05:06.785,0:05:08.084
Just check out their ads.

0:05:08.874,0:05:10.544
The thing that you never wore.

0:05:10.882,0:05:12.877
This and this and that.

0:05:13.512,0:05:15.848
The thing with the color[br]that wasn't your color.

0:05:16.178,0:05:17.262
Bring it on.

0:05:17.450,0:05:20.652
This is one of H&M's latest ad campaigns.

0:05:20.652,0:05:24.123
Cut your jeans into pieces[br]and make new jeans out of them.

0:05:24.980,0:05:28.556
"Cut your jeans into pieces[br]and make new jeans out of them."

0:05:28.866,0:05:32.671
With your help,we literally turn[br]your old clothes into new garments.

0:05:33.401,0:05:37.167
"We literally turn your old clothes[br]into new garments."

0:05:37.881,0:05:40.511
Garments in the worst condition[br]can be transformed

0:05:40.511,0:05:44.561
into insulation material[br]or textile fibers woven into cloth,

0:05:44.561,0:05:48.684
reborn as fashionable new clothes[br]of every conceivable kind.

0:05:49.571,0:05:51.822
What do you think about recycling clothes?

0:05:51.822,0:05:53.183
I think that's amazing.

0:05:53.183,0:05:54.324
That's a great plan.

0:05:54.384,0:05:56.194
We're talking about recycling clothes.

0:05:56.194,0:05:58.824
What does that make you[br]think is happening to the stuff?

0:05:58.824,0:06:02.512
I think maybe it's, like,[br]refurbish the clothes

0:06:02.512,0:06:04.994
and get them to look new again.

0:06:05.264,0:06:07.399
What do you think happens to that stuff?

0:06:07.399,0:06:10.524
Doesn't it get recycled to make[br]new clothes from the old clothes?

0:06:10.836,0:06:13.748
Let's shred it into fibers[br]and stitch it into something new

0:06:14.063,0:06:17.410
The only thing we will not do it waste it.

0:06:17.730,0:06:19.186
Bold recycling claims.

0:06:19.305,0:06:21.974
They sound great, but are they really?

0:06:23.549,0:06:27.086
[ Flight Attendant[br]Over Intercom ]

0:06:27.256,0:06:30.489
To try to find out,[br]we head to New York City,

0:06:30.489,0:06:32.591
one of the fashion capitals of the world.

0:06:34.260,0:06:36.628
With jackets, you always[br]have to check the lining.

0:06:36.628,0:06:40.735
To meet Elizabeth Cline,[br]an anti-fast fashion crusader.

0:06:41.100,0:06:44.417
Because of what she knows,[br]she only wears used clothes.

0:06:44.639,0:06:47.224
It's made her a pro[br]at assessing cast-offs.

0:06:48.140,0:06:53.307
On a coat, the first thing you would do[br]is make sure the zippers work.

0:06:53.445,0:06:56.982
Especially fast fashion, like,[br]a lot of the fasteners will just break

0:06:56.982,0:06:58.951
and chip really quickly.

0:06:59.173,0:07:01.297
We show her H&M's marketing

0:07:01.297,0:07:05.445
and ask her what she thinks about[br]making new clothes out of your old ones.

0:07:05.891,0:07:08.527
Shred it into fibers and stitch it[br]into something new.

0:07:08.527,0:07:12.999
The reality is that currently only about[br]1% of clothing is actually recycled

0:07:12.999,0:07:16.469
in the very literal sense of the word.

0:07:16.469,0:07:17.469
1%?

0:07:17.469,0:07:18.470
1%.

0:07:18.470,0:07:20.373
1%...is recycled?

0:07:20.373,0:07:23.642
If you're talking about recycling[br]in terms of taking fibers

0:07:23.642,0:07:26.545
and breaking them down

0:07:26.545,0:07:29.215
and turning them back[br]into new fibers, it's 1%.

0:07:29.215,0:07:31.884
Why is it so hard to just take my old shirt[br]and turn it into a new one?

0:07:31.884,0:07:34.353
Why can't you just do is that?

0:07:34.353,0:07:38.190
A lot of our clothes are made[br]out of blended fibers,

0:07:38.190,0:07:42.161
so maybethis is acrylic and wool[br]and cotton mixed together,

0:07:42.161,0:07:45.464
maybe my tights are cotton and elastin,

0:07:45.464,0:07:47.866
that makes it difficult to recycle.

0:07:47.866,0:07:51.637
The other challenge is that[br]when you recycle cotton and wool,

0:07:51.637,0:07:57.076
it diminishes the quality[br]of that material,

0:07:57.076,0:08:01.113
so it weakens the cotton and wool strand[br]and gives you a lesser product.

0:08:01.113,0:08:04.950
Bottom line, the technology[br]just isn't there yet.

0:08:04.950,0:08:08.454
It's way too expensive[br]and too time consuming

0:08:08.454,0:08:11.157
to make new clothes from old ones.

0:08:11.157,0:08:14.493
It's also a more skeptical side of me

0:08:14.493,0:08:18.230
that knows that the reason why[br]H&M is focusing on textile recycling

0:08:18.230,0:08:20.900
is because it's an easy sustainability win[br]for them.

0:08:20.900,0:08:23.802
It doesn't involve them changing[br]their production model at all

0:08:23.802,0:08:27.840
to collect clothes and make sure[br]that they get a second life.

0:08:27.840,0:08:30.676
It doesn't make the fast fashion[br]system any more sustainable.

0:08:33.345,0:08:36.749
Experts agree fast-fashion needs to change[br]if we really want to make a difference

0:08:39.017,0:08:41.486
Remember when fashion had four seasons,

0:08:41.486,0:08:44.023
winter, spring, summer and fall?

0:08:44.023,0:08:47.292
Now the trends change almost every day.

0:08:47.292,0:08:51.030
Here's how this Swedish clothing giant[br]CEO explains it.

0:08:51.030,0:08:54.500
They have new garments coming[br]into the stores almost every day.

0:08:54.500,0:08:57.068
So if you go to an H&M store today[br]and come back two days later,

0:08:57.068,0:09:00.105
you will always find something new.

0:09:00.105,0:09:03.275
H&M salespeople tell us new clothes come in

0:09:03.275,0:09:06.812
every Monday, Wednesday,[br]Friday, and Sunday.

0:09:06.812,0:09:10.148
That works out to half[br]a billion products a year.

0:09:10.148,0:09:14.186
And it's why H&M's recycling campaign[br]makes Claudia Marsales so mad.

0:09:19.458,0:09:23.395
It really is a form of greenwashing.

0:09:23.395,0:09:24.997
She's the head of Markham,[br]Ontario's waste programs.

0:09:24.997,0:09:27.766
One of the few Canadian cities to actually[br]ban textiles from landfills.

0:09:31.070,0:09:36.508
In order for the fast fashion outlets[br]to recycle what they make,

0:09:36.508,0:09:38.177
it would take 12 years to recycle[br]what they sell in 48 hours.

0:09:40.512,0:09:43.449
Like it's just...

0:09:43.449,0:09:46.352
So that sort of tells me it's really[br]more about foot traffic, marketing,

0:09:46.352,0:09:50.489
greenwashing than about really[br]addressing the broken business model

0:09:50.489,0:09:52.424
of fast fashion.

0:09:52.424,0:09:55.060
We asked H&M to come on camera[br]and talk about their recycling program.

0:09:56.629,0:09:59.164
They declined, assuring us they don't want[br]to encourage a throwaway attitude.

0:10:01.233,0:10:04.403
Their clothes are good quality[br]and made to last.

0:10:04.403,0:10:07.606
And they are working towards[br]a business model where,

0:10:07.606,0:10:10.576
eventually, all their clothes[br]can be recycled.

0:10:10.576,0:10:12.478
At least they're trying?

0:10:12.478,0:10:18.784
Yes, well, but they're a cause of the problem,

0:10:18.784,0:10:22.822
so fast fashion retailers,[br]their business model is the problem.

0:10:22.822,0:10:26.658
They're making too much,[br]they're selling it too cheap.

0:10:26.658,0:10:28.760
It's disposable clothing.

0:10:28.760,0:10:31.730
Doing a bit of back-end recycling[br]and a bit of commercials

0:10:31.730,0:10:34.300
really doesn't address that issue.

0:10:37.269,0:10:39.605
And ask some customers one of the things[br]they love most about the program?

0:10:41.706,0:10:43.174
It's the discount.

0:10:43.174,0:10:45.878
That incentive to keep buying.

0:10:45.878,0:10:47.412
I put it in the bin and then[br]they give me a discount.

0:10:47.412,0:10:48.881
I saw it and it's like oh, snap.

0:10:48.881,0:10:50.282
You know, um, it's a way to, like,

0:10:50.282,0:10:53.452
you know, help me[br]and help them at the same time.

0:10:53.452,0:10:55.521
What do you mean when you say help you[br]and help someone else?

0:10:56.755,0:10:59.358
Um, help me by, you know, saving money[br]and help them by providing free clothing.

0:11:01.293,0:11:04.864
We just chuck it in the bin[br]and they did offer, like, a $5 discount.

0:11:06.232,0:11:08.767
H&M might be collecting your old clothes.

0:11:08.767,0:11:13.905
More than 55,000 tonnes so far,

0:11:13.905,0:11:17.109
but if they're barely making new clothes[br]from your donations,

0:11:17.109,0:11:18.109
where do they all go?

0:11:18.109,0:11:19.545
These shoppers have a theory.

0:11:20.746,0:11:22.848
Where do you think those clothes go[br]that you put in H&M?

0:11:22.848,0:11:25.951
They probably go to people who need them,

0:11:25.951,0:11:29.555
probably like shelters[br]or other places that use the clothes.

0:11:29.555,0:11:31.457
Probably give it for free, or something,[br]to the people that need it.

0:11:33.793,0:11:34.793
Where do you think that stuff goes,[br]what do you think happens to it?

0:11:35.861,0:11:37.429
Hopefully to just some needy people.

0:11:37.429,0:11:38.997
Yeah.

0:11:38.997,0:11:40.966
Who still want to be fashionable.

0:11:40.966,0:11:43.469
Many of us think our old clothes[br]are given to the less fortunate.

0:11:44.770,0:11:45.904
Wrong.

0:11:45.904,0:11:48.039
And maybe you're telling yourself that[br]to feel better about buying more, too.

0:11:50.142,0:11:52.377
Well, Cline coined a term for this.

0:11:55.414,0:11:57.582
What's the clothing deficit myth?

0:11:57.582,0:12:02.954
So, the clothing deficit myth is the idea[br]that when we give clothes to charity,

0:12:02.954,0:12:06.558
they're going to go to someone locally[br]in our community in need.

0:12:09.094,0:12:13.933
But in the era of fast fashion,

0:12:13.933,0:12:16.134
there's far more unwanted clothes[br]than there are people in need.

0:12:18.237,0:12:21.073
The Salvation Army knows all about that.

0:12:21.073,0:12:25.944
Remember, this is all the stuff[br]they can't sell at their stores.

0:12:25.944,0:12:29.314
So what do they do[br]with all these leftovers?

0:12:29.314,0:12:32.017
They sell it to a middle man.

0:12:32.017,0:12:34.620
And the retailers do the same thing[br]with all you donations too.

0:12:36.488,0:12:39.958
In Canada, H&M gives the money[br]it makes off your donations to UNICEF.

0:12:41.827,0:12:43.094
Here's the thing.

0:12:43.094,0:12:45.364
All textiles are worth money.

0:12:45.364,0:12:48.333
The stuff that's in really rough shape[br]is shredded for painter's cloth

0:12:48.333,0:12:51.970
cloths or insulation, for[br]example, then sold.

0:12:51.970,0:12:56.742
But the majority of all donated[br]clothes are shipped overseas to

0:12:56.742,0:12:59.945
developing countries[br]and they're sold there, too.

0:12:59.945,0:13:02.714
Not donated or[br]given to needy people.

0:13:02.714,0:13:05.650
And if you think that means[br]it's not going to end up in

0:13:05.650,0:13:08.387
landfills, think again.

0:13:10.422,0:13:12.658
We follow the trail of[br]your old tee-shirts.

0:13:12.658,0:13:14.726
Around the world.

0:13:14.726,0:13:16.729
>> The black stripes[br]here are from Canada.

0:13:16.729,0:13:19.664
>> Charlsie: You can't[br]afford to miss this trip.

0:13:19.664,0:13:22.133
This is your "Marketplace."

0:13:22.133,0:13:24.003
[ ♪♪ ]

0:13:25.437,0:13:27.472
>> Charlsie: The real[br]deal on your "Marketplace."

0:13:27.472,0:13:29.341
[ ♪♪ ]

0:13:31.377,0:13:32.944
>> Charlsie: We love[br]our clothes.

0:13:32.944,0:13:36.882
Now so cheap, you can make a[br]different statement every day.

0:13:36.882,0:13:38.684
These things are $3?

0:13:38.684,0:13:40.953
$5.

0:13:40.953,0:13:43.489
But they come with a huge cost.

0:13:43.489,0:13:45.958
Part of the reason why[br]some fast fashion chains,

0:13:45.958,0:13:49.895
like H&M, say they've got[br]recycling programs like this.

0:13:49.895,0:13:53.165
>> The Earth simply cannot bear[br]so many clothes ending their

0:13:53.165,0:13:54.866
lives as waste.

0:13:54.866,0:13:57.636
H&M has a far better answer.

0:13:57.636,0:14:00.239
>> Charlsie: But we learnt less[br]than 1% of the world's

0:14:00.239,0:14:03.442
used clothes are turned[br]into new ones.

0:14:03.442,0:14:07.078
The majority of those donations[br]from retailer and charity bins

0:14:07.078,0:14:10.315
are baled and sold overseas.

0:14:10.315,0:14:12.184
[ ♪♪ ]

0:14:17.856,0:14:21.593
>> This is Nairobi, Kenya, the[br]country at the top of the list

0:14:21.593,0:14:24.663
when it comes to[br]buying your old clothes.

0:14:24.663,0:14:27.733
Kenya is one of[br]Canada's best customers.

0:14:27.733,0:14:31.703
In a given year, they buy more[br]than $20 million worth of our

0:14:31.703,0:14:33.639
old clothes.

0:14:33.639,0:14:35.440
>> All the rest with[br]the black stripes,

0:14:35.440,0:14:37.809
the black stripes[br]here are from Canada.

0:14:37.809,0:14:39.945
These are a variety[br]of kids clothing.

0:14:39.945,0:14:41.680
This one is a jacket.

0:14:41.680,0:14:43.248
Ladies tee-shirts.

0:14:43.248,0:14:46.318
>> Charlsie: Maina Andrew[br]is a used clothing importer.

0:14:46.318,0:14:48.152
>> People from[br]Canada and America,

0:14:48.152,0:14:51.656
they are actually a bit huge.

0:14:51.656,0:14:53.659
>> Charlsie: Scenes[br]like this aren't isolated.

0:14:53.659,0:14:57.963
You'll see them all over Africa,[br]South and Central America.

0:14:57.963,0:15:01.433
A lot of this is stuff[br]Canadians donated for free,

0:15:01.433,0:15:06.204
only for it to be sold here[br]for profit to vendors like

0:15:06.204,0:15:10.676
Alice Nyansarora Anunda, who[br]brings it to her local market.

0:15:10.676,0:15:15.647
They call the clothes,[br]"Mitumba."

0:15:15.647,0:15:21.520
>> No, that one, it's[br]just a nickname we gave it,

0:15:21.520,0:15:24.957
"Mitumba" means, "Old"[br]in our culture.

0:15:24.957,0:15:27.993
>> Charlsie: Nearly[br]13,000 kilometres away.

0:15:27.993,0:15:30.763
But take a closer[br]look and there they are.

0:15:30.763,0:15:32.730
The names you know.

0:15:32.730,0:15:36.234
AEO, Zara, Adidas, H&M.

0:15:36.234,0:15:40.906
>> The way we open bales, we[br]know plans where there's new

0:15:40.906,0:15:45.410
clothes, especially[br]those which come from Canada.

0:15:45.410,0:15:47.712
>> Charlsie: But Andrew notices[br]many of the clothes are low

0:15:47.712,0:15:50.015
quality, tough to sell.

0:15:50.015,0:15:51.149
>> We just dump them.

0:15:51.149,0:15:52.817
If people don't buy[br]them, we just dump them.

0:15:52.817,0:15:54.687
[ ♪♪ ]

0:16:02.828,0:16:05.196
>> They do go in[br]the piles of garbage,

0:16:05.196,0:16:07.833
very many of them.

0:16:09.734,0:16:12.371
>> Charlsie: He says this[br]happens regularly right behind

0:16:12.371,0:16:16.074
the market, discarding and[br]burning clothes Canadians don't

0:16:16.074,0:16:19.611
want and neither do Kenyans.

0:16:19.611,0:16:22.381
>> Sometimes they pack[br]even very old items.

0:16:22.381,0:16:25.050
You can even pack items[br]that are not even good,

0:16:25.050,0:16:29.487
and they end up dumping[br]them in Africa or in Kenya.

0:16:29.487,0:16:31.357
[ ♪♪ ]

0:16:36.461,0:16:39.398
>> Yeah, we burn them and it is[br]a lost work because we have

0:16:39.398,0:16:40.698
already bought them.

0:16:40.698,0:16:42.568
[ ♪♪ ]

0:16:44.036,0:16:46.504
>> Charlsie: All those popular[br]brands in the crowded markets,

0:16:46.504,0:16:49.274
Elizabeth Cline[br]has seen them, too.

0:16:49.274,0:16:50.608
She's been to Kenya.

0:16:50.608,0:16:52.411
>> There are a lot of different[br]companies around the world that

0:16:52.411,0:16:55.780
are working on textile recycling[br]in the truest sense of the word,

0:16:55.780,0:16:58.350
but it's really in[br]the very early stages.

0:16:58.350,0:17:01.119
Whether it stays in the United[br]States or if it ends up in

0:17:01.119,0:17:04.790
Africa, ultimately it is[br]going to end up in the landfill.

0:17:04.790,0:17:07.258
>> Charlsie: We tell H&M[br]about this Kenyan market

0:17:07.258,0:17:08.794
and all the fires.

0:17:08.794,0:17:11.896
They say its middle man[br]I:CO, which handles pickup and

0:17:11.896,0:17:14.932
distribution of their bins,[br]has really high standards.

0:17:14.933,0:17:17.536
But they are still working[br]on building a better tracking

0:17:17.536,0:17:20.738
system so this[br]doesn't keep happening.

0:17:20.738,0:17:23.141
>> Dumping is always cheaper.

0:17:23.141,0:17:25.176
It's always the cheaper option.

0:17:25.176,0:17:26.610
There's only one solution.

0:17:26.611,0:17:30.381
The producer of the clothing[br]is responsible cradle to grave.

0:17:30.381,0:17:33.218
So they make the tee-shirt,[br]they sell the tee-shirt,

0:17:33.218,0:17:37.455
the tee-shirt comes back, they[br]have to recycle that tee-shirt.

0:17:37.455,0:17:39.691
They can't put it in a[br]third world country.

0:17:39.691,0:17:41.459
>> As far as South[br]Africa is concerned,

0:17:41.459,0:17:43.228
we banned secondhand clothing.

0:17:43.228,0:17:46.498
>> When a country[br]survives on secondhand things,

0:17:46.498,0:17:48.566
secondhand clothes, it means[br]there's something wrong with

0:17:48.566,0:17:49.968
that system.

0:17:49.968,0:17:52.370
>> Threatening the survival of[br]the local textiles industry.

0:17:52.370,0:17:54.239
>> Charlsie: And now many[br]of those countries

0:17:54.239,0:17:55.907
are fighting back.

0:17:55.907,0:17:59.144
East African countries sent[br]the world a message recently.

0:17:59.144,0:18:01.279
They don't want our[br]hand-me-downs and

0:18:01.279,0:18:02.847
tried to ban them.

0:18:02.847,0:18:04.349
Their government said[br]it was destroying

0:18:04.349,0:18:06.385
their own textile market.

0:18:06.385,0:18:09.587
>> Secondhand clothes are[br]quite cheap and any manufactured

0:18:09.587,0:18:13.525
textile would not be[br]able to compete with them.

0:18:15.026,0:18:17.395
>> Charlsie: And despite[br]everything you just watched,

0:18:17.395,0:18:20.231
Cline says H&M group is a[br]frontrunner in

0:18:20.231,0:18:22.000
sustainability efforts.

0:18:22.000,0:18:24.035
Compared to other[br]brands, they are leaders.

0:18:24.035,0:18:27.072
I don't know what that says[br]about the rest of the fashion

0:18:27.072,0:18:29.107
industry, that a fast[br]fashion chain is

0:18:29.107,0:18:30.675
at the top of that list.

0:18:30.675,0:18:33.578
Just know that your textile[br]waste is an environmental issue.

0:18:33.578,0:18:36.648
Textile waste in landfills[br]is one of the fastest growing

0:18:36.648,0:18:40.752
categories of waste, and[br]it's such an easy thing to do

0:18:40.752,0:18:42.120
something about.

0:18:42.120,0:18:46.224
>> Charlsie: So what should you[br]do with all your old clothes?

0:18:46.224,0:18:50.362
The answers, coming right up.

0:18:50.362,0:18:52.797
Do you have a story you[br]want us to investigate?

0:18:52.797,0:18:56.235
Write to us, Marketplace@cbc.ca.

0:18:57.068,0:18:58.803
[ ♪♪ ]

0:18:59.804,0:19:02.040
>> The high cost of[br]fashion on your "Marketplace."

0:19:03.008,0:19:04.409
Do you ever impulse buy?

0:19:04.409,0:19:05.677
>> Absolutely.

0:19:05.677,0:19:07.279
>> Charlsie: What was the last[br]thing you bought that now you

0:19:07.279,0:19:08.380
see, and you're like,[br]"What was I thinking?"

0:19:08.380,0:19:09.781
>> Clothing always.

0:19:09.781,0:19:12.851
>> Charlsie: On average, we buy[br]almost 70 clothing items

0:19:12.851,0:19:14.286
every year.

0:19:14.286,0:19:17.188
That means we're buying[br]new clothes every week.

0:19:17.188,0:19:19.123
What did you buy?

0:19:19.123,0:19:20.792
>> A lot of stuff.

0:19:20.792,0:19:21.960
>> Charlsie: Did[br]you need anything?

0:19:21.960,0:19:23.161
>> No.

0:19:23.161,0:19:25.029
>> Charlsie: Just looking around[br]and you bought a few things.

0:19:25.029,0:19:26.164
>> Yes, I bought lots of things.

0:19:26.164,0:19:29.534
Leggings, shirts,[br]socks, underwear.

0:19:29.534,0:19:31.736
>> Charlsie: Most of these[br]styles will end up trashed

0:19:31.736,0:19:33.504
in landfill.

0:19:33.504,0:19:36.141
Fast fashion is a big[br]part of the problem,

0:19:36.141,0:19:38.676
but we don't have to buy in.

0:19:38.676,0:19:43.415
So this is 50%[br]polyester, 50% cotton.

0:19:43.415,0:19:45.950
It's really hard to separate[br]those fibers and make new stuff.

0:19:45.950,0:19:47.185
>> You bet.

0:19:47.185,0:19:48.719
>> Charlsie: Do you know how[br]many litres of water goes into

0:19:48.719,0:19:50.355
making a single pair of jeans?

0:19:50.355,0:19:51.589
Almost 4,000 litres.

0:19:51.589,0:19:53.025
>> Wow.[br]>> Whoo.

0:19:53.025,0:19:54.325
>> That's crazy.

0:19:54.325,0:19:57.162
[ ♪♪ ]

0:19:57.162,0:19:59.398
>> Charlsie: And sometimes[br]just seeing the waste

0:19:59.398,0:20:00.965
makes a difference.

0:20:00.965,0:20:03.802
These families swear[br]they'll change their ways.

0:20:03.802,0:20:05.804
>> They want to look[br]at the cute things,

0:20:05.804,0:20:07.872
things that look good but[br]not necessarily good quality.

0:20:07.872,0:20:10.809
>> We have to-- we try to teach[br]them to use their stuff until

0:20:10.809,0:20:12.376
it's worn out.

0:20:12.376,0:20:14.912
>> Charlsie: Speaking of[br]waste and consumption,

0:20:14.912,0:20:18.183
I've still got my bag of[br]clothes to get rid of.

0:20:18.183,0:20:21.086
I don't really know where[br]the best place is to go

0:20:21.086,0:20:23.188
with my stuff.

0:20:23.188,0:20:25.189
And I think people at home who[br]see this are probably going to

0:20:25.189,0:20:26.491
have the same question.

0:20:26.491,0:20:29.994
>> Some people like[br]to swap the clothes,

0:20:29.994,0:20:31.663
so that's the[br]first line of defence.

0:20:31.663,0:20:33.298
If it's in really[br]good condition,

0:20:33.298,0:20:34.932
you can take them to[br]a consignment store.

0:20:34.932,0:20:39.637
You can also donate to[br]a reputable charity.

0:20:39.637,0:20:44.242
Do your research on who[br]you're giving your clothing to.

0:20:44.242,0:20:47.379
Don't buy so much.

0:20:47.379,0:20:49.180
>> Charlsie: So bottom line,[br]when it comes to your used

0:20:49.180,0:20:52.384
clothing, don't throw it away,[br]try and give it to somebody who

0:20:52.384,0:20:53.652
can actually use it.

0:20:53.652,0:20:56.254
Hey, girls, does[br]anybody need a tee-shirt?

0:20:56.254,0:20:57.889
No, you sure?

0:20:57.889,0:20:59.224
Black dress pants?

0:20:59.224,0:21:00.726
Hardly ever wore them.

0:21:00.726,0:21:01.793
This is cool, right?

0:21:01.793,0:21:02.994
Zipper in the back.

0:21:02.994,0:21:04.195
>> I think I'm okay.

0:21:04.195,0:21:05.297
>> Charlsie: Any chance you[br]want to return yours and

0:21:05.297,0:21:06.297
take these ones.

0:21:06.297,0:21:07.298
>> No, thank you.

0:21:07.298,0:21:08.299
>> Charlsie: They're a[br]size small.

0:21:08.299,0:21:09.367
I wore them, like, twice.

0:21:09.367,0:21:10.368
>> No, thank you.

0:21:10.368,0:21:11.669
>> Charlsie: No?[br]>> No.

0:21:11.669,0:21:13.070
>> Charlsie: Do any of you need[br]a pair of pajama pants or know

0:21:13.070,0:21:15.573
someone who might want these?

0:21:15.573,0:21:17.208
>> I'll take them.[br]>> Charlsie: Tee shirt?

0:21:17.208,0:21:18.310
>> I'll take them.

0:21:18.310,0:21:20.445
>> Charlsie: Any chance[br]you want a pair of Levi's?

0:21:20.445,0:21:22.981
>> Sure, size 6, me.

0:21:22.981,0:21:24.215
>> Charlsie: Awesome![br]>> Awesome.

0:21:24.215,0:21:25.216
>> Charlsie: There you go[br]and they won't go

0:21:25.216,0:21:26.217
to landfill this way.

0:21:26.217,0:21:27.886
>> No.

0:21:27.886,0:21:30.355
>> Charlsie: Maybe there is[br]no perfect solution to this

0:21:30.355,0:21:31.923
complicated problem.

0:21:31.923,0:21:34.425
But if there's something I've[br]learned throughout this process,

0:21:34.425,0:21:36.561
it's that there is[br]something I can do and,

0:21:36.561,0:21:40.832
for me, that will[br]mean buying less.

0:21:40.832,0:21:43.834
[ ♪♪ ]

0:21:43.834,0:21:47.139
>> Announcer: A special, year[br]long Marketplace investigation.

0:21:47.139,0:21:50.708
We go undercover,[br]inside nursing homes.

0:21:50.708,0:21:53.077
>> I was...

0:21:53.077,0:21:55.514
>> Announcer: Families[br]fighting for better care.

0:21:55.514,0:21:58.683
>> Die, die...

0:21:58.683,0:21:59.918
>> Woman: My poor mother.

0:21:59.918,0:22:02.887
>> Announcer: Has long term care[br]reached a crisis point?

0:22:02.887,0:22:04.789
>> Oh, we're[br]way past that.

0:22:04.789,0:22:07.125
I think we've been[br]in crisis for years.

0:22:07.125,0:22:09.194
>> If this happened[br]in a day care,

0:22:09.194,0:22:11.363
that day care would be[br]shut down in five minutes.

0:22:11.363,0:22:13.898
>> Announcer:[br]How to fight for better care,

0:22:13.898,0:22:16.101
On the next Marketplace.