1
00:00:00,811 --> 00:00:01,977
This is "Marketplace."
2
00:00:02,435 --> 00:00:03,537
Whoa.
3
00:00:04,303 --> 00:00:06,352
Pajamas, old dresses.
4
00:00:06,352 --> 00:00:07,777
Oh, my gosh!
5
00:00:08,345 --> 00:00:11,411
Where do all your old clothes
really end up?
6
00:00:11,411 --> 00:00:14,583
Ultimately, it is going
to end up in a landfill.
7
00:00:14,583 --> 00:00:17,033
We follow the trail around the world.
8
00:00:17,033 --> 00:00:18,675
♪ (music) ♪
9
00:00:18,675 --> 00:00:21,317
The high cost of fast fashion.
10
00:00:21,317 --> 00:00:23,041
This is your "Marketplace."
11
00:00:23,556 --> 00:00:27,074
I'm here checking out some of
the biggest fashion chains in the world,
12
00:00:27,074 --> 00:00:29,272
but I'm not shopping for new clothes.
13
00:00:29,272 --> 00:00:31,792
I'm actually trying to get rid
of some of my old ones.
14
00:00:31,792 --> 00:00:32,792
♪ (music) ♪
15
00:00:32,792 --> 00:00:38,046
So these are my all-time favorite
sweatpants from college.
16
00:00:38,046 --> 00:00:41,590
These, I washed them
and they totally shrunk.
17
00:00:41,590 --> 00:00:43,163
These were also super cheap.
18
00:00:43,163 --> 00:00:45,592
This is just like an old T-shirt.
19
00:00:45,592 --> 00:00:47,727
It was black at one point in its life.
20
00:00:47,727 --> 00:00:49,254
♪ (music) ♪
21
00:00:49,254 --> 00:00:51,454
Some retailers are on a mission.
22
00:00:51,454 --> 00:00:53,257
They want your unwanted clothes,
23
00:00:53,257 --> 00:00:56,291
and some are competing
with charities for it.
24
00:00:56,291 --> 00:00:57,291
♪ (music) ♪
25
00:00:57,291 --> 00:01:00,470
There's a new bin in town
and the message is clear:
26
00:01:00,470 --> 00:01:03,086
Don't throw old clothes in the garbage,
27
00:01:03,086 --> 00:01:04,703
dump them here.
28
00:01:04,703 --> 00:01:06,900
They'll take curtains, they'll take jeans.
29
00:01:06,900 --> 00:01:08,967
They'll even take your old underwear.
30
00:01:08,967 --> 00:01:10,826
♪ (music) ♪
31
00:01:10,826 --> 00:01:15,238
Drop off old clothes and get a coupon
to save money when you buy new ones.
32
00:01:16,358 --> 00:01:18,568
But before I part with my old clothes,
33
00:01:18,568 --> 00:01:20,575
I've got a few more questions.
34
00:01:20,575 --> 00:01:23,516
These bins sure make us all feel good.
35
00:01:23,516 --> 00:01:26,482
But are they doing as much good
as we think?
36
00:01:28,221 --> 00:01:29,322
Look at this!
37
00:01:29,322 --> 00:01:30,923
Look at these bags!
38
00:01:31,497 --> 00:01:33,883
Most of us are
like the Bretons and the Palmas
39
00:01:33,883 --> 00:01:35,457
in Markham, Ontario.
40
00:01:35,457 --> 00:01:38,365
Somehow, we end up with too many clothes.
41
00:01:38,365 --> 00:01:39,540
Emily, what's in here?
42
00:01:39,540 --> 00:01:42,332
Old clothes that are too small for me.
43
00:01:42,332 --> 00:01:44,376
They purge a few times a year,
44
00:01:44,376 --> 00:01:46,686
normally dropping
their haul in a charity bin.
45
00:01:47,289 --> 00:01:48,427
Whoa!
46
00:01:48,427 --> 00:01:50,610
Stuff like these have holes in them.
47
00:01:50,610 --> 00:01:52,845
This isn't just a pile of clothes.
48
00:01:52,845 --> 00:01:55,808
It's now a pile of textile waste.
49
00:01:55,808 --> 00:02:00,437
And we want to show the kids
just how big the problem really is.
50
00:02:00,437 --> 00:02:02,944
♪ (music) ♪
51
00:02:03,498 --> 00:02:05,235
Are you guys ready to go inside
52
00:02:05,235 --> 00:02:07,965
and see what happens to all
those clothes that you donate?
53
00:02:07,965 --> 00:02:09,865
- Yes.
- All right. Let's go inside.
54
00:02:09,865 --> 00:02:11,720
♪ (music) ♪
55
00:02:11,720 --> 00:02:13,830
Go on in, take a look.
56
00:02:14,649 --> 00:02:16,305
Whoa!
57
00:02:17,045 --> 00:02:21,344
♪ (music) ♪
58
00:02:21,344 --> 00:02:24,206
- Clothes! Clothes!
- That's clothes.
59
00:02:24,206 --> 00:02:26,195
- Clothes!
- Do you see that?
60
00:02:26,195 --> 00:02:28,646
- Oh, my gosh.
- Clothes!
61
00:02:29,481 --> 00:02:31,688
That's a crazy pile.
62
00:02:31,688 --> 00:02:36,255
And get this, all of this
is what's leftover,
63
00:02:36,255 --> 00:02:38,346
the stuff no one wants.
64
00:02:38,346 --> 00:02:41,070
The stuff that thrift stores can't sell.
65
00:02:41,070 --> 00:02:43,796
All those clothes you guys
piled up yesterday,
66
00:02:43,796 --> 00:02:45,671
this is where it can end up.
67
00:02:45,671 --> 00:02:47,311
It's a lot of clothes.
68
00:02:47,311 --> 00:02:49,212
It wasn't what I was expecting to see.
69
00:02:49,935 --> 00:02:51,265
One warehouse,
70
00:02:51,265 --> 00:02:56,065
more than 200,000 pounds
of textile waste each week.
71
00:02:56,065 --> 00:02:59,608
And that's just from
in and around Toronto.
72
00:03:00,743 --> 00:03:03,076
Across the country,
we've got nine other locations
73
00:03:03,076 --> 00:03:04,190
similar to this one.
74
00:03:04,190 --> 00:03:07,661
The last year or two years,
probably a 15 to 20% growth
75
00:03:07,661 --> 00:03:10,446
in the overall volume of textiles
that are coming in.
76
00:03:10,446 --> 00:03:14,624
Tonny Colyn is the head of donations
for Salvation Army Canada.
77
00:03:14,624 --> 00:03:19,028
So, how do you think fast
fashion has impacted... this?
78
00:03:19,028 --> 00:03:20,393
All of this.
79
00:03:20,393 --> 00:03:22,138
It's had a massive effect.
80
00:03:22,138 --> 00:03:24,339
And all of that stuff has to go somewhere.
81
00:03:24,339 --> 00:03:26,272
The dads of these two families,
82
00:03:26,272 --> 00:03:30,064
Michael Palma and Norman Breton.
can't believe it.
83
00:03:30,064 --> 00:03:34,119
Their coats or boots might be okay,
but they want something new.
84
00:03:34,591 --> 00:03:36,959
If they need or if they want,
it's a big question.
85
00:03:36,959 --> 00:03:39,529
A lot of times they want stuff
but they don't need it.
86
00:03:39,529 --> 00:03:40,720
♪ (music) ♪
87
00:03:40,720 --> 00:03:45,525
Still, we can't seem to get our hands
on fast fashion fast enough.
88
00:03:45,525 --> 00:03:48,001
Cheap, trendy, disposable clothes.
89
00:03:48,001 --> 00:03:50,591
And we're even bragging about it.
90
00:03:50,591 --> 00:03:52,860
And I ended up with a bag full of clothes.
91
00:03:52,860 --> 00:03:57,520
We're all buying too much,
400% more, since the 1980's.
92
00:03:57,520 --> 00:04:01,314
The quality isn't all that great,
but the prices are fantastic.
93
00:04:01,314 --> 00:04:04,994
But not all of our old clothes
make it to the donation bin.
94
00:04:04,994 --> 00:04:09,299
Most of it, 85%, ends up in landfill.
95
00:04:10,791 --> 00:04:16,358
In North America, it's estimated to be
at least 25 billion pounds a year.
96
00:04:17,318 --> 00:04:20,178
In Canada alone, imagine a mountain
97
00:04:20,178 --> 00:04:24,343
three times the size
of Toronto's Rogers Centre Stadium
98
00:04:24,883 --> 00:04:27,215
Where they don't biodegrade easily
99
00:04:27,215 --> 00:04:30,888
because many are made with fabrics
that can't be broken down,
100
00:04:32,312 --> 00:04:36,109
releasing chemicals and dyes
into our rivers, soil.
101
00:04:36,109 --> 00:04:37,109
♪ (music) ♪
102
00:04:37,109 --> 00:04:41,781
That's part of the reason why fashion
is one of the world's top polluters.
103
00:04:42,939 --> 00:04:45,478
♪ (rock music) ♪
104
00:04:45,478 --> 00:04:47,144
So in the last few years,
105
00:04:47,144 --> 00:04:49,352
some of the biggest names in the business,
106
00:04:49,352 --> 00:04:52,666
Levi's, Nike, Adidas, Zara,
107
00:04:52,666 --> 00:04:55,076
have started recycling programs.
108
00:04:55,076 --> 00:04:58,014
All retailers with donation bins in stores
109
00:04:58,014 --> 00:05:00,352
calling out for your old garments.
110
00:05:00,352 --> 00:05:03,008
But none go as far as H&M.
111
00:05:03,008 --> 00:05:06,675
They will take anything: jeans,
curtains, even underwear.
112
00:05:06,675 --> 00:05:08,084
Just check out their ads.
113
00:05:08,874 --> 00:05:10,822
The thing that you never wore.
114
00:05:10,822 --> 00:05:12,877
This and this and that.
115
00:05:13,512 --> 00:05:16,128
The thing with the color
that wasn't your color.
116
00:05:16,128 --> 00:05:17,252
Bring it on.
117
00:05:17,252 --> 00:05:20,150
This is one of H&M's latest ad campaigns.
118
00:05:21,112 --> 00:05:23,973
Cut your jeans into pieces
and make new jeans out of them.
119
00:05:24,980 --> 00:05:28,886
"Cut your jeans into pieces
and make new jeans out of them."
120
00:05:28,886 --> 00:05:32,522
With your help,we literally turn
your old clothes into new garments.
121
00:05:33,511 --> 00:05:37,167
"We literally turn your old clothes
into new garments."
122
00:05:37,881 --> 00:05:40,327
Garments in the worst condition
can be transformed
123
00:05:40,327 --> 00:05:44,561
into insulation material
or textile fibers woven into cloth,
124
00:05:44,561 --> 00:05:48,684
reborn as fashionable new clothes
of every conceivable kind.
125
00:05:49,471 --> 00:05:51,710
What do you think about recycling clothes?
126
00:05:51,710 --> 00:05:54,324
I think that's amazing.
That's a great plan.
127
00:05:54,324 --> 00:05:56,150
We're talking about recycling clothes.
128
00:05:56,150 --> 00:05:58,771
What does that make you
think is happening to the stuff?
129
00:05:58,771 --> 00:06:02,512
I think maybe it's, like,
refurbish the clothes
130
00:06:02,512 --> 00:06:05,163
and get them to look new again.
131
00:06:05,163 --> 00:06:07,399
What do you think happens to that stuff?
132
00:06:07,399 --> 00:06:10,836
Doesn't it get recycled to make
new clothes from the old clothes?
133
00:06:10,836 --> 00:06:13,748
Let's shred it into fibers
and stitch it into something new
134
00:06:13,748 --> 00:06:17,468
The only thing we will not do is waste it.
135
00:06:17,468 --> 00:06:19,186
Bold recycling claims.
136
00:06:19,186 --> 00:06:22,290
They sound great, but are they really?
137
00:06:23,439 --> 00:06:27,256
(Flight attendant over intercom)
138
00:06:27,256 --> 00:06:30,489
To try to find out,
we head to New York City,
139
00:06:30,489 --> 00:06:32,591
one of the fashion capitals
of the world...
140
00:06:32,591 --> 00:06:34,067
♪ (music) ♪
141
00:06:34,067 --> 00:06:36,482
With jackets, you always
have to check the lining.
142
00:06:37,063 --> 00:06:40,970
...To meet Elizabeth Cline,
an anti-fast fashion crusader.
143
00:06:40,970 --> 00:06:44,549
Because of what she knows,
she only wears used clothes.
144
00:06:44,549 --> 00:06:47,224
It's made her a pro
at assessing cast-offs.
145
00:06:47,920 --> 00:06:53,307
On a coat, the first thing you would do
is make sure the zippers work.
146
00:06:53,307 --> 00:06:56,967
Especially fast fashion, like,
a lot of the fasteners will just break
147
00:06:57,485 --> 00:06:58,951
and chip really quickly.
148
00:06:58,951 --> 00:07:01,297
We show her H&M's marketing
149
00:07:01,297 --> 00:07:05,698
and ask her what she thinks about
making new clothes out of your old ones.
150
00:07:05,698 --> 00:07:08,447
Shred it into fibers and stitch it
into something new.
151
00:07:09,218 --> 00:07:14,195
The reality is that currently, only about
1% of clothing is actually recycled
152
00:07:14,195 --> 00:07:16,469
in the very literal sense of the word.
153
00:07:16,469 --> 00:07:18,470
- 1%?
- 1%.
154
00:07:18,470 --> 00:07:20,373
1%... is recycled?
155
00:07:21,053 --> 00:07:24,458
If you're talking about recycling
in terms of taking fibers
156
00:07:24,458 --> 00:07:25,615
and breaking them down
157
00:07:25,615 --> 00:07:28,661
and turning them back
into new fibers, it's 1%.
158
00:07:28,661 --> 00:07:31,450
Why is it so hard
to just take my old shirt
159
00:07:31,450 --> 00:07:32,887
and turn it into a new one?
160
00:07:32,887 --> 00:07:34,384
Why can't you just do that?
161
00:07:34,388 --> 00:07:36,887
A lot of our clothes are made
out of blended fibers,
162
00:07:36,887 --> 00:07:41,927
so maybe this is acrylic and wool
and cotton mixed together,
163
00:07:41,927 --> 00:07:45,440
maybe my tights are cotton and elastane.
164
00:07:45,440 --> 00:07:47,524
That makes it very difficult to recycle.
165
00:07:47,524 --> 00:07:51,637
The other challenge is that
when you recycle cotton and wool,
166
00:07:51,637 --> 00:07:56,091
it diminishes the quality
of that material,
167
00:07:56,091 --> 00:08:00,873
so it weakens the cotton and wool strand
and gives you a lesser product.
168
00:08:00,873 --> 00:08:05,130
Bottom line, the technology
just isn't there yet.
169
00:08:05,130 --> 00:08:08,454
It's way too expensive
and too time consuming
170
00:08:08,454 --> 00:08:10,701
to make new clothes from old ones.
171
00:08:10,701 --> 00:08:13,417
There's also a more skeptical side of me
172
00:08:13,417 --> 00:08:17,723
that knows that the reason why
H&M is focusing on textile recycling
173
00:08:17,723 --> 00:08:20,412
is because it's an easy
sustainability win for them.
174
00:08:20,412 --> 00:08:23,802
It doesn't involve them changing
their production model at all
175
00:08:23,802 --> 00:08:27,188
to collect clothes and make sure
that they get a second life.
176
00:08:27,637 --> 00:08:30,798
It doesn't make the fast fashion
system any more sustainable.
177
00:08:30,798 --> 00:08:33,087
♪ (music) ♪
178
00:08:33,087 --> 00:08:35,972
Experts agree fast fashion needs to change
179
00:08:35,972 --> 00:08:38,197
if we really want to make a difference.
180
00:08:38,817 --> 00:08:41,090
Remember when fashion had four seasons,
181
00:08:41,090 --> 00:08:43,773
winter, spring, summer and fall?
182
00:08:43,773 --> 00:08:46,818
Now, the trends change almost every day.
183
00:08:47,292 --> 00:08:50,370
Here's how this Swedish clothing giant
CEO explains it.
184
00:08:50,928 --> 00:08:54,179
We have new garments coming
into the stores almost every day.
185
00:08:54,179 --> 00:08:57,213
So if you go to an H&M store today
and come back two days later,
186
00:08:57,213 --> 00:08:59,579
you will always find something new.
187
00:09:00,020 --> 00:09:02,899
H&M salespeople tell us
new clothes come in
188
00:09:02,899 --> 00:09:06,524
every Monday, Wednesday,
Friday, and Sunday.
189
00:09:06,524 --> 00:09:09,691
That works out to half
a billion products a year.
190
00:09:10,376 --> 00:09:13,832
And it's why H&M's recycling campaign
191
00:09:13,832 --> 00:09:16,476
makes Claudia Marsales so mad.
192
00:09:19,198 --> 00:09:23,033
It really is a form of greenwashing.
193
00:09:23,033 --> 00:09:25,858
She's the head of Markham,
Ontario's waste programs.
194
00:09:25,858 --> 00:09:30,602
One of the few Canadian cities
to actually ban textiles from landfills.
195
00:09:30,602 --> 00:09:33,596
In order for the fast fashion outlets
196
00:09:33,596 --> 00:09:36,348
to recycle what they make,
197
00:09:36,348 --> 00:09:40,512
it would take 12 years to recycle
what they sell in 48 hours.
198
00:09:40,512 --> 00:09:41,675
Like it's just...
199
00:09:41,675 --> 00:09:45,904
So that sort of tells me it's really
more about foot traffic, marketing,
200
00:09:45,904 --> 00:09:50,731
greenwashing, than about really
addressing the broken business model
201
00:09:50,731 --> 00:09:52,056
of fast fashion.
202
00:09:52,056 --> 00:09:56,011
We asked H&M to come on camera
and talk about their recycling program.
203
00:09:56,011 --> 00:09:57,956
They declined, assuring us
204
00:09:57,956 --> 00:10:01,033
they don't want
to encourage a throwaway attitude.
205
00:10:01,033 --> 00:10:04,403
Their clothes are good quality
and made to last.
206
00:10:04,403 --> 00:10:07,486
And they are working towards
a business model where,
207
00:10:07,486 --> 00:10:10,576
eventually, all their clothes
can be recycled.
208
00:10:10,576 --> 00:10:12,478
At least they're trying?
209
00:10:14,502 --> 00:10:17,237
Yes, well, but they're a cause
of the problem.
210
00:10:17,237 --> 00:10:21,250
So, fast fashion retailers,
211
00:10:21,250 --> 00:10:23,537
their business model is the problem.
212
00:10:23,537 --> 00:10:26,658
They're making too much,
they're selling it too cheap.
213
00:10:26,658 --> 00:10:28,760
It's disposable clothing.
214
00:10:28,760 --> 00:10:32,704
Doing a bit of back-end recycling
and a bit of commercials
215
00:10:32,704 --> 00:10:34,706
really doesn't address that issue.
216
00:10:34,706 --> 00:10:36,950
♪ (music) ♪
217
00:10:36,950 --> 00:10:41,486
And ask some customers one of the things
they love most about the program?
218
00:10:41,486 --> 00:10:42,945
It's the discount.
219
00:10:42,945 --> 00:10:45,275
That incentive to keep buying.
220
00:10:45,275 --> 00:10:47,842
I put it in the bin and then
they give me the discount.
221
00:10:47,842 --> 00:10:49,420
I saw it and it's like, oh, snap.
222
00:10:49,420 --> 00:10:51,267
You know, it's a way to, like,
223
00:10:51,267 --> 00:10:53,562
you know, help me
and help them at the same time.
224
00:10:53,562 --> 00:10:56,450
What do you mean when you say help you
and help someone else?
225
00:10:56,450 --> 00:10:58,742
Help me by, you know, saving money
226
00:10:58,742 --> 00:11:01,270
and help them
by providing free clothing for them.
227
00:11:01,863 --> 00:11:05,741
We just chuck it in the bin
and they did offer, like, a $5 discount.
228
00:11:06,232 --> 00:11:08,767
H&M might be collecting your old clothes.
229
00:11:08,767 --> 00:11:11,942
More than 55,000 tonnes so far,
230
00:11:11,942 --> 00:11:15,639
but if they're barely making new clothes
from your donations,
231
00:11:15,639 --> 00:11:17,458
where do they all go?
232
00:11:17,458 --> 00:11:19,140
These shoppers have a theory.
233
00:11:19,140 --> 00:11:20,140
♪ (music) ♪
234
00:11:20,140 --> 00:11:22,848
Where do you think those clothes go
that you put in H&M?
235
00:11:23,488 --> 00:11:25,708
They probably go to people who need them,
236
00:11:25,708 --> 00:11:27,283
probably like shelters
237
00:11:27,283 --> 00:11:29,243
or other places that use the clothes.
238
00:11:29,243 --> 00:11:33,225
Probably give it for free, or something,
to the people that need it.
239
00:11:33,225 --> 00:11:34,895
Where do you think that stuff goes?
240
00:11:34,895 --> 00:11:38,324
- What do you think happens to it?
- Hopefully to just some needy people.
241
00:11:39,214 --> 00:11:40,898
Who still want to be fashionable.
242
00:11:40,898 --> 00:11:44,375
Many of us think our old clothes
are given to the less fortunate.
243
00:11:44,375 --> 00:11:45,448
Wrong.
244
00:11:45,448 --> 00:11:47,417
And maybe you're telling yourself that
245
00:11:47,417 --> 00:11:49,673
to feel better about buying more, too.
246
00:11:49,673 --> 00:11:51,997
Well, Cline coined a term for this.
247
00:11:51,997 --> 00:11:54,860
♪ (music) ♪
248
00:11:54,860 --> 00:11:56,721
What's the clothing deficit myth?
249
00:11:56,721 --> 00:12:01,464
(chuckle) So, the clothing deficit myth
is the idea
250
00:12:01,464 --> 00:12:04,111
that when we give clothes to charity,
251
00:12:04,111 --> 00:12:08,930
they're going to go to someone locally
in our community in need.
252
00:12:09,550 --> 00:12:11,405
But in the era of fast fashion,
253
00:12:12,100 --> 00:12:16,091
there's far more unwanted clothes
than there are people in need.
254
00:12:16,091 --> 00:12:17,905
♪ (music) ♪
255
00:12:17,905 --> 00:12:20,913
The Salvation Army knows all about that.
256
00:12:20,913 --> 00:12:25,874
Remember, this is all the stuff
they can't sell at their stores.
257
00:12:25,874 --> 00:12:28,904
So what do they do
with all these leftovers?
258
00:12:28,904 --> 00:12:31,204
They sell it to a middle man.
259
00:12:31,735 --> 00:12:36,083
And the retailers do the same thing
with all your donations too.
260
00:12:36,083 --> 00:12:41,064
In Canada, H&M gives the money
it makes off your donations to UNICEF.
261
00:12:41,607 --> 00:12:42,774
Here's the thing.
262
00:12:42,774 --> 00:12:44,684
All textiles are worth money.
263
00:12:45,217 --> 00:12:48,759
The stuff that's in really rough shape
is shredded for painter's cloths
264
00:12:48,763 --> 00:12:51,849
or insulation, for example, then sold.
265
00:12:51,849 --> 00:12:54,779
But the majority of all donated clothes
266
00:12:54,779 --> 00:12:57,980
are shipped overseas
to developing countries
267
00:12:57,980 --> 00:12:59,725
and they're sold there, too.
268
00:12:59,725 --> 00:13:02,468
Not donated or given to needy people.
269
00:13:02,468 --> 00:13:06,338
And if you think that means
it's not going to end up in landfills,
270
00:13:06,338 --> 00:13:07,516
think again.
271
00:13:09,966 --> 00:13:14,366
We follow the trail of your old T-shirts
around the world.
272
00:13:14,366 --> 00:13:16,729
The black stripes here are from Canada.
273
00:13:16,729 --> 00:13:19,030
You can't afford to miss this trip.
274
00:13:19,664 --> 00:13:21,613
This is your "Marketplace."
275
00:13:21,613 --> 00:13:25,307
♪ (music) ♪
276
00:13:25,307 --> 00:13:27,703
The real deal on your "Marketplace."
277
00:13:27,703 --> 00:13:31,377
♪ (music) ♪
278
00:13:31,377 --> 00:13:32,944
We love our clothes.
279
00:13:32,944 --> 00:13:36,882
Now so cheap, you can make
a different statement every day.
280
00:13:36,882 --> 00:13:38,684
These things are $3?
281
00:13:39,427 --> 00:13:40,488
$5.
282
00:13:40,953 --> 00:13:43,489
But they come with a huge cost.
283
00:13:43,489 --> 00:13:46,275
Part of the reason why
some fast fashion chains,
284
00:13:46,275 --> 00:13:50,182
like H&M, say they've got
recycling programs like this.
285
00:13:50,182 --> 00:13:53,056
The Earth simply cannot bear
so many clothes
286
00:13:53,056 --> 00:13:54,866
ending their lives as waste.
287
00:13:54,866 --> 00:13:57,158
H&M has a far better answer.
288
00:13:57,636 --> 00:14:01,813
But we learnt less than 1%
of the world's used clothes
289
00:14:01,813 --> 00:14:03,763
are turned into new ones.
290
00:14:03,763 --> 00:14:07,725
The majority of those donations
from retailer and charity bins
291
00:14:07,725 --> 00:14:10,315
are bailed and sold overseas.
292
00:14:10,315 --> 00:14:13,915
♪ (music) ♪
293
00:14:14,515 --> 00:14:17,856
♪ (music) ♪
294
00:14:17,856 --> 00:14:20,036
This is Nairobi, Kenya.
295
00:14:20,036 --> 00:14:22,093
The country at the top of the list
296
00:14:22,093 --> 00:14:25,017
when it comes to buying your old clothes.
297
00:14:25,017 --> 00:14:27,733
Kenya is one of Canada's best customers.
298
00:14:27,733 --> 00:14:31,285
In a given year, they buy
more than $20 million
299
00:14:31,285 --> 00:14:33,123
worth of our old clothes.
300
00:14:33,639 --> 00:14:37,999
All the rest with the black stripes here
are from Canada.
301
00:14:37,999 --> 00:14:39,945
These are a variety of kids clothing.
302
00:14:40,445 --> 00:14:42,073
This one is a jacket.
303
00:14:42,073 --> 00:14:43,600
Ladies T-shirts.
304
00:14:43,600 --> 00:14:46,318
Maina Andrew is a used clothing importer.
305
00:14:46,318 --> 00:14:48,673
People from Canada and America,
306
00:14:48,673 --> 00:14:51,656
they are actually a bit huge.
307
00:14:51,656 --> 00:14:53,659
Scenes like this aren't isolated.
308
00:14:53,659 --> 00:14:57,963
You'll see them all over Africa,
South and Central America.
309
00:14:57,963 --> 00:15:01,433
A lot of this is stuff
Canadians donated for free,
310
00:15:02,067 --> 00:15:06,204
only for it to be sold here
for profit to vendors
311
00:15:06,204 --> 00:15:08,583
like Alice Nyansarora Anunda,
312
00:15:08,583 --> 00:15:10,863
who brings it to her local market.
313
00:15:10,863 --> 00:15:13,584
They call the clothes, "Mitumba."
314
00:15:13,584 --> 00:15:15,647
(laughter)
315
00:15:15,647 --> 00:15:21,520
No, that one, it's just
a nickname we gave it,
316
00:15:21,974 --> 00:15:24,957
"Mitumba" means, "Old" in our culture.
317
00:15:24,957 --> 00:15:27,993
Nearly 13,000 kilometres away.
318
00:15:27,993 --> 00:15:30,763
But take a closer look and there they are.
319
00:15:30,763 --> 00:15:32,730
The names you know.
320
00:15:32,730 --> 00:15:36,344
AEO, Zara, Adidas, H&M.
321
00:15:36,344 --> 00:15:38,445
The way we open bails,
322
00:15:38,445 --> 00:15:41,929
we know their plans
where there's new clothes,
323
00:15:41,929 --> 00:15:44,951
especially those which come from Canada.
324
00:15:45,410 --> 00:15:49,691
But Andrew notices many of the clothes
are low quality, tough to sell.
325
00:15:50,255 --> 00:15:51,259
We just dump them.
326
00:15:51,259 --> 00:15:53,801
If people don't buy them,
we just dump them.
327
00:15:53,801 --> 00:15:59,419
♪ (music) ♪
328
00:15:59,419 --> 00:16:02,828
♪ (music) ♪
329
00:16:02,828 --> 00:16:06,973
They do go in the piles of garbage,
very many of them.
330
00:16:06,973 --> 00:16:09,734
♪ (music) ♪
331
00:16:09,734 --> 00:16:13,618
He says this happens regularly
right behind the market,
332
00:16:13,618 --> 00:16:16,925
discarding and burning clothes
Canadians don't want
333
00:16:16,925 --> 00:16:18,762
and neither do Kenyans.
334
00:16:19,501 --> 00:16:22,381
Sometimes they pack even very old items.
335
00:16:22,381 --> 00:16:25,383
You can even pack items
that are not even good,
336
00:16:25,872 --> 00:16:29,487
and they end up dumping them
in Africa or in Kenya.
337
00:16:30,714 --> 00:16:36,461
♪ (music) ♪
338
00:16:36,461 --> 00:16:40,330
Yeah, we burn them and it is a lost work
because we already bought them.
339
00:16:40,330 --> 00:16:42,860
♪ (music) ♪
340
00:16:44,036 --> 00:16:46,780
All those popular brands
in the crowded markets,
341
00:16:46,780 --> 00:16:50,324
Elizabeth Cline has seen them, too.
She's been to Kenya.
342
00:16:50,324 --> 00:16:52,899
There are a lot of different companies
around the world
343
00:16:52,899 --> 00:16:56,180
that are working on textile recycling
in the truest sense of the word,
344
00:16:56,180 --> 00:16:58,780
but it's really in the very early stages.
345
00:16:58,780 --> 00:17:01,852
Whether it stays in the United States
or if it ends up in Africa,
346
00:17:01,852 --> 00:17:04,848
ultimately, it is going to end up
in the landfill.
347
00:17:04,848 --> 00:17:08,396
We tell H&M about this Kenyan market
and all the fires.
348
00:17:08,396 --> 00:17:10,659
They say its middle man I:CO,
349
00:17:10,659 --> 00:17:13,319
which handles pickup
and distribution of their bins,
350
00:17:13,319 --> 00:17:14,933
has really high standards.
351
00:17:14,933 --> 00:17:18,354
But they are still working on building
a better tracking system
352
00:17:18,354 --> 00:17:20,738
so this doesn't keep happening.
353
00:17:20,738 --> 00:17:23,141
Dumping is always cheaper.
354
00:17:23,141 --> 00:17:25,176
It's always the cheaper option.
355
00:17:25,176 --> 00:17:26,610
There's only one solution.
356
00:17:26,611 --> 00:17:30,381
The producer of the clothing
is responsible cradle to grave.
357
00:17:30,381 --> 00:17:33,298
So they make the T-shirt,
they sell the T-shirt,
358
00:17:33,298 --> 00:17:37,455
the T-shirt comes back,
they have to recycle that T-shirt.
359
00:17:37,455 --> 00:17:40,032
They can't put it
in a third world country.
360
00:17:40,032 --> 00:17:43,338
As far as South Africa is concerned,
we banned secondhand clothing.
361
00:17:43,338 --> 00:17:46,728
When a country survives
on secondhand things,
362
00:17:46,728 --> 00:17:47,803
secondhand clothes,
363
00:17:47,803 --> 00:17:50,138
it means there's something wrong
with that system.
364
00:17:50,138 --> 00:17:52,987
Threatening the survival
of the local textiles industry.
365
00:17:52,987 --> 00:17:55,821
And now, many of those countries
are fighting back.
366
00:17:55,821 --> 00:17:59,144
East African countries sent
the world a message recently.
367
00:17:59,144 --> 00:18:02,803
They don't want our hand-me-downs
and tried to ban them.
368
00:18:02,803 --> 00:18:06,735
Their government said it was destroying
their own textile market.
369
00:18:06,735 --> 00:18:08,586
Secondhand clothes are quite cheap
370
00:18:08,586 --> 00:18:13,424
and any manufactured textile
would not be able to compete with them.
371
00:18:15,164 --> 00:18:17,555
And despite everything you just watched,
372
00:18:17,555 --> 00:18:22,000
Cline says H&M group is a frontrunner
in sustainability efforts.
373
00:18:22,000 --> 00:18:24,693
Compared to other brands,
they are leaders.
374
00:18:24,693 --> 00:18:28,004
I don't know what that says about
the rest of the fashion industry,
375
00:18:28,004 --> 00:18:30,539
that a fast fashion chain
is at the top of that list.
376
00:18:30,539 --> 00:18:34,306
Just know that your textile waste
is an environmental issue.
377
00:18:34,306 --> 00:18:38,528
Textile waste in landfills is one
of the fastest growing categories of waste
378
00:18:38,528 --> 00:18:41,744
and it's such an easy thing
to do something about.
379
00:18:43,144 --> 00:18:46,534
So what should you do
with all your old clothes?
380
00:18:46,534 --> 00:18:48,372
The answers, coming right up.
381
00:18:50,362 --> 00:18:52,570
Do you have a story
you want us to investigate?
382
00:18:53,204 --> 00:18:56,914
Write to us: marketplace@cbc.ca
383
00:18:59,804 --> 00:19:02,957
The high cost of fashion
on your "Marketplace."
384
00:19:02,957 --> 00:19:04,959
- Do you ever impulse buy?
- Absolutely.
385
00:19:04,959 --> 00:19:08,197
What was the last thing you bought
that now you see, and you're like:
386
00:19:08,197 --> 00:19:10,646
- "What was I thinking?"
- Clothing always.
387
00:19:10,646 --> 00:19:14,286
On average, we buy almost
70 clothing items every year.
388
00:19:14,286 --> 00:19:17,188
That means we're buying
new clothes every week.
389
00:19:17,188 --> 00:19:18,396
♪ (music) ♪
390
00:19:18,396 --> 00:19:20,792
- What did you buy?
- A lot of stuff.
391
00:19:20,792 --> 00:19:22,981
- Did you need anything?
- No.
392
00:19:22,981 --> 00:19:25,281
Just looking around
and you bought a few things.
393
00:19:25,281 --> 00:19:29,530
Yes, I bought lots of things:
leggings, shirts, socks, underwear.
394
00:19:29,973 --> 00:19:33,504
Most of these styles will end up
trashed in landfill.
395
00:19:33,504 --> 00:19:36,504
Fast fashion is a big part of the problem,
396
00:19:36,504 --> 00:19:38,676
but we don't have to buy in.
397
00:19:38,676 --> 00:19:43,584
So this is 50% polyester, 50% cotton.
398
00:19:43,584 --> 00:19:46,995
It's really hard to separate those fibers
and make new stuff.
399
00:19:46,995 --> 00:19:50,635
Do you know how many litres of water
goes into making a single pair of jeans?
400
00:19:50,635 --> 00:19:51,939
Almost 4,000 litres.
401
00:19:51,939 --> 00:19:53,025
- Wow.
- Whoo.
402
00:19:53,025 --> 00:19:54,325
That's crazy.
403
00:19:54,325 --> 00:19:57,162
♪ (music) ♪
404
00:19:57,162 --> 00:19:58,285
And sometimes,
405
00:19:58,285 --> 00:20:00,965
just seeing the waste
makes a difference.
406
00:20:00,965 --> 00:20:03,802
These families swear
they'll change their ways.
407
00:20:03,802 --> 00:20:06,619
They want to look at the cute things,
things that look good,
408
00:20:06,619 --> 00:20:08,370
but not necessarily good quality.
409
00:20:08,370 --> 00:20:11,980
We have to... we try to teach them
to use their stuff until it's worn out.
410
00:20:13,555 --> 00:20:15,478
Speaking of waste and consumption,
411
00:20:15,478 --> 00:20:18,183
I've still got my bag of clothes
to get rid of.
412
00:20:18,183 --> 00:20:23,039
I don't really know where
the best place is to go with my stuff.
413
00:20:23,039 --> 00:20:25,052
And I think people at home who see this
414
00:20:25,052 --> 00:20:27,138
are probably going to have
the same question
415
00:20:27,138 --> 00:20:31,663
Some people like to swap the clothes,
so that's the first line of defence.
416
00:20:31,663 --> 00:20:33,352
If it's in really good condition,
417
00:20:33,352 --> 00:20:35,412
you can take them to a consignment store.
418
00:20:35,412 --> 00:20:39,637
You can also donate
to a reputable charity.
419
00:20:39,637 --> 00:20:44,448
Do your research on who
you're giving your clothing to.
420
00:20:45,498 --> 00:20:47,222
Don't buy so much.
421
00:20:47,222 --> 00:20:50,321
So bottom line, when it comes
to your used clothing,
422
00:20:50,321 --> 00:20:51,378
don't throw it away,
423
00:20:51,378 --> 00:20:53,861
try and give it to somebody
who can actually use it.
424
00:20:53,861 --> 00:20:56,512
Hey, girls, does anybody need a T-shirt?
425
00:20:56,512 --> 00:20:57,889
No, you sure?
426
00:20:57,889 --> 00:21:00,726
Black dress pants? Hardly ever wore them.
427
00:21:00,726 --> 00:21:02,994
This is cool, right? Zipper in the back.
428
00:21:02,994 --> 00:21:04,065
I think I'm okay.
429
00:21:04,065 --> 00:21:06,707
Any chance you want to return yours
and take these ones?
430
00:21:06,707 --> 00:21:07,728
No, thank you.
431
00:21:07,728 --> 00:21:09,939
They're a size small.
I wore them, like, twice.
432
00:21:09,939 --> 00:21:11,249
- No, thank you.
- No? No.
433
00:21:11,249 --> 00:21:13,350
Do any of you need a pair of pajama pants
434
00:21:13,350 --> 00:21:15,213
or know someone who might want these?
435
00:21:16,163 --> 00:21:18,258
- I'll take them.
- T-shirt?
436
00:21:18,258 --> 00:21:20,585
Any chance you want a pair of Levi's?
437
00:21:20,585 --> 00:21:22,531
Sure, size 6, me.
438
00:21:22,981 --> 00:21:24,155
- Awesome!
- Awesome.
439
00:21:24,155 --> 00:21:26,687
There you go and they won't go
to a landfill this way.
440
00:21:26,687 --> 00:21:27,696
No.
441
00:21:28,196 --> 00:21:32,048
Maybe there is no perfect solution
to this complicated problem.
442
00:21:32,048 --> 00:21:35,008
But if there's something I've learned
throughout this process,
443
00:21:35,008 --> 00:21:36,861
it's that there is something I can do.
444
00:21:36,861 --> 00:21:39,624
And, for me, that will mean buying less.
445
00:21:43,834 --> 00:21:47,139
A special, year long
Marketplace investigation.
446
00:21:47,139 --> 00:21:50,668
We go undercover, inside nursing homes.
447
00:21:50,668 --> 00:21:53,311
I was shouting my head off
and they didn't come in.
448
00:21:53,311 --> 00:21:55,514
Families fighting for better care.
449
00:21:55,514 --> 00:21:58,683
Die, die you bitch. You need to die now.
450
00:21:58,683 --> 00:21:59,918
My poor mother.
451
00:21:59,918 --> 00:22:02,887
Has long term care reached a crisis point?
452
00:22:02,887 --> 00:22:04,789
Oh, we're way past that.
453
00:22:04,789 --> 00:22:07,125
I think we've been in crisis for years.
454
00:22:07,125 --> 00:22:09,194
If this happened in a day care,
455
00:22:09,194 --> 00:22:11,538
that day care would be
shut down in five minutes.
456
00:22:11,538 --> 00:22:13,818
How to fight for better care,
457
00:22:13,818 --> 00:22:15,360
on the next Marketplace.
458
00:22:16,713 --> 00:22:22,593
♪ (music) ♪