1 00:00:00,300 --> 00:00:01,267 [ ♪♪ ] 2 00:00:01,267 --> 00:00:02,435 >> Charlsie: This is "Marketplace." 3 00:00:02,435 --> 00:00:03,769 >> Whoa. 4 00:00:03,769 --> 00:00:06,472 >> Pajamas, old dresses. 5 00:00:06,472 --> 00:00:08,441 >> Oh, my gosh! 6 00:00:08,441 --> 00:00:11,411 >> Charlsie: Where do all your old clothes really end up? 7 00:00:11,411 --> 00:00:14,680 >> Ultimately, it is going to end up in a landfill. 8 00:00:14,680 --> 00:00:16,983 >> Charlsie: We follow the trail around the world. 9 00:00:18,884 --> 00:00:21,721 The high cost of fast fashion. 10 00:00:21,721 --> 00:00:23,556 This is your "Marketplace." 11 00:00:23,556 --> 00:00:26,859 I'm here checking out some of the biggest fashion chains in 12 00:00:26,859 --> 00:00:29,362 the world but I'm not shopping for new clothes. 13 00:00:29,362 --> 00:00:33,032 I'm actually trying to get rid of some of my old ones. 14 00:00:33,032 --> 00:00:36,201 So these are my all-time favourite 15 00:00:36,201 --> 00:00:38,504 sweat pants from college. 16 00:00:38,504 --> 00:00:41,841 These, I washed them and they totally shrunk. 17 00:00:41,841 --> 00:00:43,643 These were also super cheap. 18 00:00:43,643 --> 00:00:45,812 This is just like an old tee-shirt. 19 00:00:45,812 --> 00:00:47,947 It was black at one point in its life. 20 00:00:49,748 --> 00:00:51,684 Some retailers are on a mission. 21 00:00:51,684 --> 00:00:55,021 They want your unwanted clothes, and some are competing with 22 00:00:55,021 --> 00:00:56,922 charities for it. 23 00:00:56,922 --> 00:01:00,826 There's a new bin in town and the message is clear: 24 00:01:00,826 --> 00:01:03,296 Don't throw old clothes in the garbage, 25 00:01:03,296 --> 00:01:05,096 dump them here. 26 00:01:05,096 --> 00:01:06,900 They'll take curtains, they'll take jeans. 27 00:01:06,900 --> 00:01:08,967 They'll even take your old underwear. 28 00:01:08,967 --> 00:01:11,070 [ ♪♪ ] 29 00:01:11,070 --> 00:01:13,272 >> Charlsie: Drop off old clothes and get a coupon to 30 00:01:13,272 --> 00:01:15,708 save money when you buy new ones. 31 00:01:15,708 --> 00:01:18,911 >> Charlsie: But before I part with my old clothes, 32 00:01:18,911 --> 00:01:21,080 I've got a few more questions. 33 00:01:21,080 --> 00:01:23,983 These bins sure make us all feel good. 34 00:01:23,983 --> 00:01:28,221 But are they doing as much good as we think? 35 00:01:28,221 --> 00:01:29,322 Look at this! 36 00:01:29,322 --> 00:01:30,923 Look at these bags! 37 00:01:30,923 --> 00:01:34,360 Most of us are like the Bretons and the Palmas 38 00:01:34,360 --> 00:01:35,962 in Markham, Ontario. 39 00:01:35,962 --> 00:01:39,231 Somehow, we end up with too many clothes. 40 00:01:39,231 --> 00:01:40,332 >> Emily, what's in here? 41 00:01:40,332 --> 00:01:42,502 >> Old clothes that are too small for me. 42 00:01:42,502 --> 00:01:44,637 >> Charlsie: They purge a few times a year, 43 00:01:44,637 --> 00:01:47,139 normally dropping their haul in a charity bin. 44 00:01:47,139 --> 00:01:48,741 >> Whoa! 45 00:01:48,741 --> 00:01:50,610 >> Stuff like these have, like, holes in them. 46 00:01:50,610 --> 00:01:52,845 >> Charlsie: This isn't just a pile of clothes. 47 00:01:52,845 --> 00:01:55,948 It's now a pile of textile waste. 48 00:01:55,948 --> 00:01:57,650 And we want to show the kids 49 00:01:57,650 --> 00:02:00,285 just how big the problem really is. 50 00:02:00,285 --> 00:02:03,856 [ ♪♪ ] 51 00:02:03,856 --> 00:02:06,658 Are you guys ready to go inside and see what happens to all 52 00:02:06,658 --> 00:02:07,826 those clothes that you donate? 53 00:02:07,826 --> 00:02:08,827 >> Yes. 54 00:02:08,827 --> 00:02:10,362 >> All right. Let's go inside. 55 00:02:10,362 --> 00:02:12,398 [ ♪♪ ] 56 00:02:12,398 --> 00:02:13,999 Go on in, take a look. 57 00:02:13,999 --> 00:02:16,935 >> Whoa! 58 00:02:16,935 --> 00:02:20,106 [ ♪♪ ] 59 00:02:21,674 --> 00:02:23,275 >> Clothes! >> Clothes! 60 00:02:23,275 --> 00:02:24,577 >> That's clothes. 61 00:02:24,577 --> 00:02:26,345 >> Clothes. >> Do you see that? 62 00:02:26,345 --> 00:02:28,047 >> Oh, my gosh. 63 00:02:28,047 --> 00:02:29,481 >> Clothes! 64 00:02:29,481 --> 00:02:31,417 >> That's a crazy pile. 65 00:02:31,417 --> 00:02:36,355 >> Charlsie: And get this, all of this is what's leftover, 66 00:02:36,355 --> 00:02:38,624 the stuff no one wants. 67 00:02:38,624 --> 00:02:41,660 The stuff that thrift stores can't sell. 68 00:02:41,660 --> 00:02:43,796 All those clothes you guys piled up yesterday, 69 00:02:43,796 --> 00:02:46,331 this is where it can end up. 70 00:02:46,331 --> 00:02:47,966 >> It's a lot of clothes. 71 00:02:47,966 --> 00:02:49,935 >> It wasn't what I was expecting to see. 72 00:02:49,935 --> 00:02:53,806 >> Charlsie: One warehouse, more than 200,000 pounds 73 00:02:53,806 --> 00:02:56,375 of textile waste each week. 74 00:02:56,375 --> 00:03:00,380 And that's just from in and around Toronto. 75 00:03:00,380 --> 00:03:03,182 >> Across the country, we've got nine other locations 76 00:03:03,182 --> 00:03:04,516 similar to this one. 77 00:03:04,516 --> 00:03:07,687 The last year or two years, probably a 15 to 20% growth in 78 00:03:07,687 --> 00:03:10,556 the overall volume of textiles that are coming in. 79 00:03:10,556 --> 00:03:12,992 >> Charlsie: Tonny Colyn is the head of donations for 80 00:03:12,992 --> 00:03:15,261 Salvation Army Canada. 81 00:03:15,261 --> 00:03:19,198 So, how do you think fast fashion has impacted...this? 82 00:03:19,198 --> 00:03:20,533 >> All of this. 83 00:03:20,533 --> 00:03:22,501 It's had a massive effect. 84 00:03:22,501 --> 00:03:24,237 And all of that stuff has to go somewhere. 85 00:03:24,237 --> 00:03:26,272 >> Charlsie: The dads of these two families, 86 00:03:26,272 --> 00:03:30,443 Michael Palma and Norman Breton can't believe it. 87 00:03:30,443 --> 00:03:32,244 >> Their coats or boots might be okay, 88 00:03:32,244 --> 00:03:34,947 but they want something new. 89 00:03:34,947 --> 00:03:37,283 >> If they need or if they want, it's a big question. 90 00:03:37,283 --> 00:03:39,819 A lot of times they want stuff but they don't need it. 91 00:03:39,819 --> 00:03:42,988 >> Charlsie: Still, we can't seem to get our hands 92 00:03:42,988 --> 00:03:45,925 on fast fashion fast enough. 93 00:03:45,925 --> 00:03:48,461 Cheap, trendy, disposable clothes. 94 00:03:48,461 --> 00:03:50,663 And we're even bragging about it. 95 00:03:50,663 --> 00:03:52,932 >> And I ended up with a bag full of clothes. 96 00:03:52,932 --> 00:03:54,700 >> Charlsie: We're all buying too much, 97 00:03:54,700 --> 00:03:57,804 400% more, since the 1980's. 98 00:03:57,804 --> 00:03:59,638 >> The quality isn't all that great but the 99 00:03:59,638 --> 00:04:01,640 prices are fantastic. 100 00:04:01,640 --> 00:04:03,576 >> Charlsie: But not all of our old clothes make it 101 00:04:03,576 --> 00:04:05,144 to the donation bin. 102 00:04:05,144 --> 00:04:09,949 Most of it, 85%, ends up in landfills. 103 00:04:09,949 --> 00:04:13,585 In North America, it's estimated to be at least 104 00:04:13,585 --> 00:04:17,656 25 billion pounds a year. 105 00:04:17,656 --> 00:04:22,428 In Canada alone, imagine a mountain three times the size of 106 00:04:22,428 --> 00:04:26,832 Toronto's Rogers Centre Stadium where they don't biodegrade 107 00:04:26,832 --> 00:04:29,935 easily because many are made with fabrics that can't 108 00:04:29,935 --> 00:04:32,605 be broken down. 109 00:04:32,605 --> 00:04:36,675 Releasing chemicals and dyes into our rivers, soil. 110 00:04:36,675 --> 00:04:40,246 That's part of the reason why fashion is one of the 111 00:04:40,246 --> 00:04:41,948 world's top polluters. 112 00:04:45,918 --> 00:04:48,854 So in the last few years, some of the biggest names in the 113 00:04:48,854 --> 00:04:52,225 business, Levi's, Nike, Adidas, Zara 114 00:04:52,225 --> 00:04:55,461 have started recycling programs. 115 00:04:55,461 --> 00:04:58,831 All retailers with donation bins in stores calling out 116 00:04:58,831 --> 00:05:00,933 for your old garments. 117 00:05:00,933 --> 00:05:04,370 But none go as far as H&M, they will take anything, 118 00:05:04,370 --> 00:05:08,874 jeans, curtains, even underwear, just check out their ads. 119 00:05:08,874 --> 00:05:13,512 >> The thing that you never wore, this and this and that. 120 00:05:13,512 --> 00:05:15,848 The thing with the colour that wasn't your colour, 121 00:05:15,848 --> 00:05:17,450 bring it on. 122 00:05:17,450 --> 00:05:20,652 >> Charlsie: This is one of H&M's latest ad campaigns. 123 00:05:20,652 --> 00:05:24,123 >> Cut your jeans into pieces and make new jeans out of them. 124 00:05:24,123 --> 00:05:26,692 >> Charlsie: "Cut your jeans into pieces 125 00:05:26,692 --> 00:05:29,228 "and make new jeans out of them." 126 00:05:29,228 --> 00:05:31,597 >> With your help, we literally turn your old clothes 127 00:05:31,597 --> 00:05:33,065 into new garments. 128 00:05:33,065 --> 00:05:35,902 >> Charlsie: "We literally turn your old clothes 129 00:05:35,902 --> 00:05:38,203 "into new garments." 130 00:05:38,203 --> 00:05:40,039 >> Garments in the worst condition can be transformed 131 00:05:40,039 --> 00:05:44,844 into insulation material or textile fibers woven into cloth, 132 00:05:44,844 --> 00:05:47,079 reborn as fashionable new clothes 133 00:05:47,079 --> 00:05:49,916 of every conceivable kind. 134 00:05:49,916 --> 00:05:51,984 >> Charlsie: What do you think about recycling clothes? 135 00:05:51,984 --> 00:05:53,553 >> I think that's amazing. 136 00:05:53,553 --> 00:05:54,854 That's a great plan. 137 00:05:54,854 --> 00:05:56,655 >> Charlsie: We're talking about recycling clothes. 138 00:05:56,655 --> 00:05:58,324 What does that make you think is happening to the stuff? 139 00:05:58,324 --> 00:06:02,895 >> I think maybe it's, like, like, refurbish the clothes 140 00:06:02,895 --> 00:06:05,264 and, like, get them to look new again. 141 00:06:05,264 --> 00:06:07,399 >> Charlsie: What do you think happens to that stuff? 142 00:06:07,399 --> 00:06:09,001 >> Doesn't it get recycled to make new clothes 143 00:06:09,001 --> 00:06:10,836 from the old clothes? 144 00:06:10,836 --> 00:06:12,839 >> Let's shred it into fibers and stitch it 145 00:06:12,839 --> 00:06:14,273 into something new. 146 00:06:14,273 --> 00:06:17,810 The only thing we will not do it waste it. 147 00:06:17,810 --> 00:06:19,545 >> Charlsie: Bold recycling claims. 148 00:06:19,545 --> 00:06:22,214 They sound great, but are they really? 149 00:06:22,214 --> 00:06:24,049 [ ♪♪ ] 150 00:06:24,049 --> 00:06:27,086 [ Flight Attendant Over Intercom ] 151 00:06:27,086 --> 00:06:30,489 >> To try to find out, we head to New York City, 152 00:06:30,489 --> 00:06:32,591 one of the fashion capitals of the world. 153 00:06:32,591 --> 00:06:34,760 [ ♪♪ ] 154 00:06:34,760 --> 00:06:36,628 >> With jackets, you always have to check the lining. 155 00:06:36,628 --> 00:06:38,697 >> Charlsie: Meet Elizabeth Cline, 156 00:06:38,697 --> 00:06:41,100 an anti-fast fashion crusader. 157 00:06:41,100 --> 00:06:44,903 Because of what she knows, she only wears used clothes. 158 00:06:44,903 --> 00:06:48,140 It's made her a pro at assessing cast-offs. 159 00:06:48,140 --> 00:06:50,609 >> On a coat, the first thing you would do is 160 00:06:50,609 --> 00:06:53,445 make sure the zippers work. 161 00:06:53,445 --> 00:06:56,982 Especially fast fashion, like a lot of the fasteners will break 162 00:06:56,982 --> 00:06:58,951 and chip really quickly. 163 00:06:58,951 --> 00:07:02,188 >> Charlsie: We show her H&M's marketing and ask her what she 164 00:07:02,188 --> 00:07:05,891 thinks about making new clothes out of your old ones. 165 00:07:05,891 --> 00:07:08,527 >> Shred it into fibers and stitch it into something new. 166 00:07:08,527 --> 00:07:12,999 >> The reality is that currently only about 1% of clothing is 167 00:07:12,999 --> 00:07:16,469 actually recycled and the very literal sense of the word. 168 00:07:16,469 --> 00:07:17,469 >> Charlsie: 1%? 169 00:07:17,469 --> 00:07:18,470 >> 1%. 170 00:07:18,470 --> 00:07:20,373 >> Charlsie: 1%...is recycled? 171 00:07:20,373 --> 00:07:23,642 >> If you're talking about recycling in terms of taking 172 00:07:23,642 --> 00:07:26,545 fibers and breaking them down and turning them 173 00:07:26,545 --> 00:07:29,215 back into new fibers, it's 1%. 174 00:07:29,215 --> 00:07:31,884 >> Charlsie: Why is it so hard to just take my old shirt and 175 00:07:31,884 --> 00:07:34,353 turn it into a new one, why can't you just do is that? 176 00:07:34,353 --> 00:07:38,190 >> A lot of our clothes are made out of blended fibers, so maybe 177 00:07:38,190 --> 00:07:42,161 this is acrylic and wool and cotton mixed together, 178 00:07:42,161 --> 00:07:45,464 maybe my tights are cotton and elastin, 179 00:07:45,464 --> 00:07:47,866 that makes it difficult to recycle. 180 00:07:47,866 --> 00:07:51,637 The other challenge is that when you recycle cotton and wool, 181 00:07:51,637 --> 00:07:57,076 it diminishes the quality of that material so it weakens the 182 00:07:57,076 --> 00:08:01,113 cotton and wool strand and gives you a lesser product. 183 00:08:01,113 --> 00:08:04,950 >> Charlsie: Bottom line, the technology just isn't there yet. 184 00:08:04,950 --> 00:08:08,454 It's way too expensive and too time consuming 185 00:08:08,454 --> 00:08:11,157 to make new clothes from old ones. 186 00:08:11,157 --> 00:08:14,493 >> It's also a more skeptical side of me that knows that the 187 00:08:14,493 --> 00:08:18,230 reason why H&M is focusing on textile recycling is because 188 00:08:18,230 --> 00:08:20,900 it's an easy sustainability win for them. 189 00:08:20,900 --> 00:08:23,802 It doesn't involve them changing their production model at all to 190 00:08:23,802 --> 00:08:27,840 collect clothes and make sure that they get a second life. 191 00:08:27,840 --> 00:08:30,676 It doesn't make the fast fashion system anymore sustainable. 192 00:08:33,345 --> 00:08:36,749 >> Charlsie: Experts agree fast fashion needs to change if we 193 00:08:36,749 --> 00:08:39,017 really want to make a difference. 194 00:08:39,017 --> 00:08:41,486 Remember when fashion had four seasons, 195 00:08:41,486 --> 00:08:44,023 winter, spring, summer and fall? 196 00:08:44,023 --> 00:08:47,292 Now the trends change almost every day. 197 00:08:47,292 --> 00:08:51,030 Here's how this Swedish clothing giant CEO explains it. 198 00:08:51,030 --> 00:08:54,500 >> They have new garments coming into the stores almost every day 199 00:08:54,500 --> 00:08:57,068 so if you go to an H&M store today and come back two days 200 00:08:57,068 --> 00:09:00,105 later, you will always find something new. 201 00:09:00,105 --> 00:09:03,275 >> Charlsie: H&M salespeople tell us new clothes come in 202 00:09:03,275 --> 00:09:06,812 every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday. 203 00:09:06,812 --> 00:09:10,148 That works out to half a billion products a year. 204 00:09:10,148 --> 00:09:14,186 And it's why H&M's recycling campaign makes 205 00:09:14,186 --> 00:09:16,255 Claudia Marsales so mad. 206 00:09:19,458 --> 00:09:23,395 >> It really is a form of greenwashing. 207 00:09:23,395 --> 00:09:24,997 >> Charlsie: She's the head of Markham, Ontario's 208 00:09:24,997 --> 00:09:27,766 waste programs, one of the few Canadian cities 209 00:09:27,766 --> 00:09:31,070 to actually ban textiles from landfills. 210 00:09:31,070 --> 00:09:36,508 >> In order for the fast fashion outlets to recycle what they 211 00:09:36,508 --> 00:09:38,177 make, it would take 12 years to recycle 212 00:09:38,177 --> 00:09:40,512 what they sell in 48 hours. 213 00:09:40,512 --> 00:09:43,449 Like it's just-- it's just-- so that sort of tells me it's 214 00:09:43,449 --> 00:09:46,352 really more about foot traffic, marketing, 215 00:09:46,352 --> 00:09:50,489 greenwashing than about really addressing the broken business 216 00:09:50,489 --> 00:09:52,424 model of fast fashion. 217 00:09:52,424 --> 00:09:55,060 >> Charlsie: We asked H&M to come on camera and talk about 218 00:09:55,060 --> 00:09:56,629 their recycling program. 219 00:09:56,629 --> 00:09:59,164 They declined, assuring us they don't want to 220 00:09:59,164 --> 00:10:01,233 encourage a throw-away attitude. 221 00:10:01,233 --> 00:10:04,403 Their clothes are good quality and made to last. 222 00:10:04,403 --> 00:10:07,606 And they are working towards a business model where, 223 00:10:07,606 --> 00:10:10,576 eventually, all their clothes can be recycled. 224 00:10:10,576 --> 00:10:12,478 >> At least they're trying? 225 00:10:12,478 --> 00:10:18,784 >> Yes, well, but they're a cause of the problem so fast 226 00:10:18,784 --> 00:10:22,822 fashion retailers, their business model is the problem. 227 00:10:22,822 --> 00:10:26,658 They're making too much, they're selling it too cheap, 228 00:10:26,658 --> 00:10:28,760 it's disposable clothing. 229 00:10:28,760 --> 00:10:31,730 Doing a bit of back-end recycling and a bit of 230 00:10:31,730 --> 00:10:34,300 commercials really doesn't address that issue. 231 00:10:35,200 --> 00:10:37,269 [ ♪♪ ] 232 00:10:37,269 --> 00:10:39,605 >> Charlsie: And ask some customers one of the things they 233 00:10:39,605 --> 00:10:41,706 love most about the program? 234 00:10:41,706 --> 00:10:43,174 It's the discount. 235 00:10:43,174 --> 00:10:45,878 That incentive to keep buying. 236 00:10:45,878 --> 00:10:47,412 >> I put it in the bin and then they give me a discount, 237 00:10:47,412 --> 00:10:48,881 I saw it and it's like oh, snap. 238 00:10:48,881 --> 00:10:50,282 You know, um, it's a way to, like, 239 00:10:50,282 --> 00:10:53,452 you know, like, help me and help them at the same time. 240 00:10:53,452 --> 00:10:55,521 >> Charlsie: What do you mean when you say help you and help 241 00:10:55,521 --> 00:10:56,755 someone else? 242 00:10:56,755 --> 00:10:59,358 >> Um, help me by, you know, saving money and help them by 243 00:10:59,358 --> 00:11:01,293 providing free clothing for them. 244 00:11:01,293 --> 00:11:04,864 >> We just chuck it in the bin and they did offer, 245 00:11:04,864 --> 00:11:06,232 like, a $5 discount. 246 00:11:06,232 --> 00:11:08,767 >> Charlsie: H&M might be collecting your old clothes. 247 00:11:08,767 --> 00:11:13,905 More than 55,000 tonnes so far, but if they're barely making new 248 00:11:13,905 --> 00:11:18,109 clothes from your donations, where do they all go? 249 00:11:18,109 --> 00:11:19,545 These shoppers have a theory. 250 00:11:20,746 --> 00:11:22,848 Where do you think those clothes go that you put in H&M? 251 00:11:22,848 --> 00:11:25,951 >> They probably go to, like, people who need them, 252 00:11:25,951 --> 00:11:29,555 probably like shelters or other places that use the clothes. 253 00:11:29,555 --> 00:11:31,457 >> Probably give it for free, or something, 254 00:11:31,457 --> 00:11:33,793 to, like, the people that need it. 255 00:11:33,793 --> 00:11:34,793 >> Charlsie: Where do you think that stuff goes, 256 00:11:34,793 --> 00:11:35,861 what do you think happens to it? 257 00:11:35,861 --> 00:11:37,429 >> Hopefully to just some needy people. 258 00:11:37,429 --> 00:11:38,997 >> Yeah. >> Mmm-hmm. 259 00:11:38,997 --> 00:11:40,966 >> Who still want to be fashionable. 260 00:11:40,966 --> 00:11:43,469 >> Charlsie: Many of us think our old clothes are given to the 261 00:11:43,469 --> 00:11:44,770 less fortunate. 262 00:11:44,770 --> 00:11:45,904 Wrong. 263 00:11:45,904 --> 00:11:48,039 And maybe you're telling yourself that to feel better 264 00:11:48,039 --> 00:11:50,142 about buying more, too. 265 00:11:50,142 --> 00:11:52,377 Well, Cline coined a term for this. 266 00:11:52,377 --> 00:11:55,414 [ ♪♪ ] 267 00:11:55,414 --> 00:11:57,582 >> Charlsie: What's the clothing deficit myth? 268 00:11:57,582 --> 00:12:02,954 >> So, the clothing deficit myth is the idea that when we give 269 00:12:02,954 --> 00:12:06,558 clothes to charity, they're going to go to someone locally 270 00:12:06,558 --> 00:12:09,094 in our community in need. 271 00:12:09,094 --> 00:12:13,933 But in the era of fast fashion, there's far more unwanted 272 00:12:13,933 --> 00:12:16,134 clothes than there are people in need. 273 00:12:16,134 --> 00:12:18,237 [ ♪♪ ] 274 00:12:18,237 --> 00:12:21,073 >> Charlsie: The Salvation Army knows all about that. 275 00:12:21,073 --> 00:12:25,944 Remember, this is all the stuff they can't sell at their stores. 276 00:12:25,944 --> 00:12:29,314 So what do they do with all these leftovers? 277 00:12:29,314 --> 00:12:32,017 They sell it-- to a middle man. 278 00:12:32,017 --> 00:12:34,620 And the retailers do the same thing with all 279 00:12:34,620 --> 00:12:36,488 your donations, too. 280 00:12:36,488 --> 00:12:39,958 In Canada, H&M gives the money it makes off your donations 281 00:12:39,958 --> 00:12:41,827 to UNICEF. 282 00:12:41,827 --> 00:12:43,094 Here's the thing. 283 00:12:43,094 --> 00:12:45,364 All textiles are worth money. 284 00:12:45,364 --> 00:12:48,333 The stuff that's in really rough shape is shredded for painter's 285 00:12:48,333 --> 00:12:51,970 cloths or insulation, for example, then sold. 286 00:12:51,970 --> 00:12:56,742 But the majority of all donated clothes are shipped overseas to 287 00:12:56,742 --> 00:12:59,945 developing countries and they're sold there, too. 288 00:12:59,945 --> 00:13:02,714 Not donated or given to needy people. 289 00:13:02,714 --> 00:13:05,650 And if you think that means it's not going to end up in 290 00:13:05,650 --> 00:13:08,387 landfills, think again. 291 00:13:10,422 --> 00:13:12,658 We follow the trail of your old tee-shirts. 292 00:13:12,658 --> 00:13:14,726 Around the world. 293 00:13:14,726 --> 00:13:16,729 >> The black stripes here are from Canada. 294 00:13:16,729 --> 00:13:19,664 >> Charlsie: You can't afford to miss this trip. 295 00:13:19,664 --> 00:13:22,133 This is your "Marketplace." 296 00:13:22,133 --> 00:13:24,003 [ ♪♪ ] 297 00:13:25,437 --> 00:13:27,472 >> Charlsie: The real deal on your "Marketplace." 298 00:13:27,472 --> 00:13:29,341 [ ♪♪ ] 299 00:13:31,377 --> 00:13:32,944 >> Charlsie: We love our clothes. 300 00:13:32,944 --> 00:13:36,882 Now so cheap, you can make a different statement every day. 301 00:13:36,882 --> 00:13:38,684 These things are $3? 302 00:13:38,684 --> 00:13:40,953 $5. 303 00:13:40,953 --> 00:13:43,489 But they come with a huge cost. 304 00:13:43,489 --> 00:13:45,958 Part of the reason why some fast fashion chains, 305 00:13:45,958 --> 00:13:49,895 like H&M, say they've got recycling programs like this. 306 00:13:49,895 --> 00:13:53,165 >> The Earth simply cannot bear so many clothes ending their 307 00:13:53,165 --> 00:13:54,866 lives as waste. 308 00:13:54,866 --> 00:13:57,636 H&M has a far better answer. 309 00:13:57,636 --> 00:14:00,239 >> Charlsie: But we learnt less than 1% of the world's 310 00:14:00,239 --> 00:14:03,442 used clothes are turned into new ones. 311 00:14:03,442 --> 00:14:07,078 The majority of those donations from retailer and charity bins 312 00:14:07,078 --> 00:14:10,315 are baled and sold overseas. 313 00:14:10,315 --> 00:14:12,184 [ ♪♪ ] 314 00:14:17,856 --> 00:14:21,593 >> This is Nairobi, Kenya, the country at the top of the list 315 00:14:21,593 --> 00:14:24,663 when it comes to buying your old clothes. 316 00:14:24,663 --> 00:14:27,733 Kenya is one of Canada's best customers. 317 00:14:27,733 --> 00:14:31,703 In a given year, they buy more than $20 million worth of our 318 00:14:31,703 --> 00:14:33,639 old clothes. 319 00:14:33,639 --> 00:14:35,440 >> All the rest with the black stripes, 320 00:14:35,440 --> 00:14:37,809 the black stripes here are from Canada. 321 00:14:37,809 --> 00:14:39,945 These are a variety of kids clothing. 322 00:14:39,945 --> 00:14:41,680 This one is a jacket. 323 00:14:41,680 --> 00:14:43,248 Ladies tee-shirts. 324 00:14:43,248 --> 00:14:46,318 >> Charlsie: Maina Andrew is a used clothing importer. 325 00:14:46,318 --> 00:14:48,152 >> People from Canada and America, 326 00:14:48,152 --> 00:14:51,656 they are actually a bit huge. 327 00:14:51,656 --> 00:14:53,659 >> Charlsie: Scenes like this aren't isolated. 328 00:14:53,659 --> 00:14:57,963 You'll see them all over Africa, South and Central America. 329 00:14:57,963 --> 00:15:01,433 A lot of this is stuff Canadians donated for free, 330 00:15:01,433 --> 00:15:06,204 only for it to be sold here for profit to vendors like 331 00:15:06,204 --> 00:15:10,676 Alice Nyansarora Anunda, who brings it to her local market. 332 00:15:10,676 --> 00:15:15,647 They call the clothes, "Mitumba." 333 00:15:15,647 --> 00:15:21,520 >> No, that one, it's just a nickname we gave it, 334 00:15:21,520 --> 00:15:24,957 "Mitumba" means, "Old" in our culture. 335 00:15:24,957 --> 00:15:27,993 >> Charlsie: Nearly 13,000 kilometres away. 336 00:15:27,993 --> 00:15:30,763 But take a closer look and there they are. 337 00:15:30,763 --> 00:15:32,730 The names you know. 338 00:15:32,730 --> 00:15:36,234 AEO, Zara, Adidas, H&M. 339 00:15:36,234 --> 00:15:40,906 >> The way we open bales, we know plans where there's new 340 00:15:40,906 --> 00:15:45,410 clothes, especially those which come from Canada. 341 00:15:45,410 --> 00:15:47,712 >> Charlsie: But Andrew notices many of the clothes are low 342 00:15:47,712 --> 00:15:50,015 quality, tough to sell. 343 00:15:50,015 --> 00:15:51,149 >> We just dump them. 344 00:15:51,149 --> 00:15:52,817 If people don't buy them, we just dump them. 345 00:15:52,817 --> 00:15:54,687 [ ♪♪ ] 346 00:16:02,828 --> 00:16:05,196 >> They do go in the piles of garbage, 347 00:16:05,196 --> 00:16:07,833 very many of them. 348 00:16:09,734 --> 00:16:12,371 >> Charlsie: He says this happens regularly right behind 349 00:16:12,371 --> 00:16:16,074 the market, discarding and burning clothes Canadians don't 350 00:16:16,074 --> 00:16:19,611 want and neither do Kenyans. 351 00:16:19,611 --> 00:16:22,381 >> Sometimes they pack even very old items. 352 00:16:22,381 --> 00:16:25,050 You can even pack items that are not even good, 353 00:16:25,050 --> 00:16:29,487 and they end up dumping them in Africa or in Kenya. 354 00:16:29,487 --> 00:16:31,357 [ ♪♪ ] 355 00:16:36,461 --> 00:16:39,398 >> Yeah, we burn them and it is a lost work because we have 356 00:16:39,398 --> 00:16:40,698 already bought them. 357 00:16:40,698 --> 00:16:42,568 [ ♪♪ ] 358 00:16:44,036 --> 00:16:46,504 >> Charlsie: All those popular brands in the crowded markets, 359 00:16:46,504 --> 00:16:49,274 Elizabeth Cline has seen them, too. 360 00:16:49,274 --> 00:16:50,608 She's been to Kenya. 361 00:16:50,608 --> 00:16:52,411 >> There are a lot of different companies around the world that 362 00:16:52,411 --> 00:16:55,780 are working on textile recycling in the truest sense of the word, 363 00:16:55,780 --> 00:16:58,350 but it's really in the very early stages. 364 00:16:58,350 --> 00:17:01,119 Whether it stays in the United States or if it ends up in 365 00:17:01,119 --> 00:17:04,790 Africa, ultimately it is going to end up in the landfill. 366 00:17:04,790 --> 00:17:07,258 >> Charlsie: We tell H&M about this Kenyan market 367 00:17:07,258 --> 00:17:08,794 and all the fires. 368 00:17:08,794 --> 00:17:11,896 They say its middle man I:CO, which handles pickup and 369 00:17:11,896 --> 00:17:14,932 distribution of their bins, has really high standards. 370 00:17:14,933 --> 00:17:17,536 But they are still working on building a better tracking 371 00:17:17,536 --> 00:17:20,738 system so this doesn't keep happening. 372 00:17:20,738 --> 00:17:23,141 >> Dumping is always cheaper. 373 00:17:23,141 --> 00:17:25,176 It's always the cheaper option. 374 00:17:25,176 --> 00:17:26,610 There's only one solution. 375 00:17:26,611 --> 00:17:30,381 The producer of the clothing is responsible cradle to grave. 376 00:17:30,381 --> 00:17:33,218 So they make the tee-shirt, they sell the tee-shirt, 377 00:17:33,218 --> 00:17:37,455 the tee-shirt comes back, they have to recycle that tee-shirt. 378 00:17:37,455 --> 00:17:39,691 They can't put it in a third world country. 379 00:17:39,691 --> 00:17:41,459 >> As far as South Africa is concerned, 380 00:17:41,459 --> 00:17:43,228 we banned secondhand clothing. 381 00:17:43,228 --> 00:17:46,498 >> When a country survives on secondhand things, 382 00:17:46,498 --> 00:17:48,566 secondhand clothes, it means there's something wrong with 383 00:17:48,566 --> 00:17:49,968 that system. 384 00:17:49,968 --> 00:17:52,370 >> Threatening the survival of the local textiles industry. 385 00:17:52,370 --> 00:17:54,239 >> Charlsie: And now many of those countries 386 00:17:54,239 --> 00:17:55,907 are fighting back. 387 00:17:55,907 --> 00:17:59,144 East African countries sent the world a message recently. 388 00:17:59,144 --> 00:18:01,279 They don't want our hand-me-downs and 389 00:18:01,279 --> 00:18:02,847 tried to ban them. 390 00:18:02,847 --> 00:18:04,349 Their government said it was destroying 391 00:18:04,349 --> 00:18:06,385 their own textile market. 392 00:18:06,385 --> 00:18:09,587 >> Secondhand clothes are quite cheap and any manufactured 393 00:18:09,587 --> 00:18:13,525 textile would not be able to compete with them. 394 00:18:15,026 --> 00:18:17,395 >> Charlsie: And despite everything you just watched, 395 00:18:17,395 --> 00:18:20,231 Cline says H&M group is a frontrunner in 396 00:18:20,231 --> 00:18:22,000 sustainability efforts. 397 00:18:22,000 --> 00:18:24,035 >> Compared to other brands, they are leaders. 398 00:18:24,035 --> 00:18:27,072 I don't know what that says about the rest of the fashion 399 00:18:27,072 --> 00:18:29,107 industry, that a fast fashion chain is 400 00:18:29,107 --> 00:18:30,675 at the top of that list. 401 00:18:30,675 --> 00:18:33,578 Just know that your textile waste is an environmental issue. 402 00:18:33,578 --> 00:18:36,648 Textile waste in landfills is one of the fastest growing 403 00:18:36,648 --> 00:18:40,752 categories of waste, and it's such an easy thing to do 404 00:18:40,752 --> 00:18:42,120 something about. 405 00:18:42,120 --> 00:18:46,224 >> Charlsie: So what should you do with all your old clothes? 406 00:18:46,224 --> 00:18:50,362 The answers, coming right up. 407 00:18:50,362 --> 00:18:52,797 Do you have a story you want us to investigate? 408 00:18:52,797 --> 00:18:56,235 Write to us, Marketplace@cbc.ca. 409 00:18:57,068 --> 00:18:58,803 [ ♪♪ ] 410 00:18:59,804 --> 00:19:02,040 >> The high cost of fashion on your "Marketplace." 411 00:19:03,008 --> 00:19:04,409 Do you ever impulse buy? 412 00:19:04,409 --> 00:19:05,677 >> Absolutely. 413 00:19:05,677 --> 00:19:07,279 >> Charlsie: What was the last thing you bought that now you 414 00:19:07,279 --> 00:19:08,380 see, and you're like, "What was I thinking?" 415 00:19:08,380 --> 00:19:09,781 >> Clothing always. 416 00:19:09,781 --> 00:19:12,851 >> Charlsie: On average, we buy almost 70 clothing items 417 00:19:12,851 --> 00:19:14,286 every year. 418 00:19:14,286 --> 00:19:17,188 That means we're buying new clothes every week. 419 00:19:17,188 --> 00:19:19,123 What did you buy? 420 00:19:19,123 --> 00:19:20,792 >> A lot of stuff. 421 00:19:20,792 --> 00:19:21,960 >> Charlsie: Did you need anything? 422 00:19:21,960 --> 00:19:23,161 >> No. 423 00:19:23,161 --> 00:19:25,029 >> Charlsie: Just looking around and you bought a few things. 424 00:19:25,029 --> 00:19:26,164 >> Yes, I bought lots of things. 425 00:19:26,164 --> 00:19:29,534 Leggings, shirts, socks, underwear. 426 00:19:29,534 --> 00:19:31,736 >> Charlsie: Most of these styles will end up trashed 427 00:19:31,736 --> 00:19:33,504 in landfill. 428 00:19:33,504 --> 00:19:36,141 Fast fashion is a big part of the problem, 429 00:19:36,141 --> 00:19:38,676 but we don't have to buy in. 430 00:19:38,676 --> 00:19:43,415 So this is 50% polyester, 50% cotton. 431 00:19:43,415 --> 00:19:45,950 It's really hard to separate those fibers and make new stuff. 432 00:19:45,950 --> 00:19:47,185 >> You bet. 433 00:19:47,185 --> 00:19:48,719 >> Charlsie: Do you know how many litres of water goes into 434 00:19:48,719 --> 00:19:50,355 making a single pair of jeans? 435 00:19:50,355 --> 00:19:51,589 Almost 4,000 litres. 436 00:19:51,589 --> 00:19:53,025 >> Wow. >> Whoo. 437 00:19:53,025 --> 00:19:54,325 >> That's crazy. 438 00:19:54,325 --> 00:19:57,162 [ ♪♪ ] 439 00:19:57,162 --> 00:19:59,398 >> Charlsie: And sometimes just seeing the waste 440 00:19:59,398 --> 00:20:00,965 makes a difference. 441 00:20:00,965 --> 00:20:03,802 These families swear they'll change their ways. 442 00:20:03,802 --> 00:20:05,804 >> They want to look at the cute things, 443 00:20:05,804 --> 00:20:07,872 things that look good but not necessarily good quality. 444 00:20:07,872 --> 00:20:10,809 >> We have to-- we try to teach them to use their stuff until 445 00:20:10,809 --> 00:20:12,376 it's worn out. 446 00:20:12,376 --> 00:20:14,912 >> Charlsie: Speaking of waste and consumption, 447 00:20:14,912 --> 00:20:18,183 I've still got my bag of clothes to get rid of. 448 00:20:18,183 --> 00:20:21,086 I don't really know where the best place is to go 449 00:20:21,086 --> 00:20:23,188 with my stuff. 450 00:20:23,188 --> 00:20:25,189 And I think people at home who see this are probably going to 451 00:20:25,189 --> 00:20:26,491 have the same question. 452 00:20:26,491 --> 00:20:29,994 >> Some people like to swap the clothes, 453 00:20:29,994 --> 00:20:31,663 so that's the first line of defence. 454 00:20:31,663 --> 00:20:33,298 If it's in really good condition, 455 00:20:33,298 --> 00:20:34,932 you can take them to a consignment store. 456 00:20:34,932 --> 00:20:39,637 You can also donate to a reputable charity. 457 00:20:39,637 --> 00:20:44,242 Do your research on who you're giving your clothing to. 458 00:20:44,242 --> 00:20:47,379 Don't buy so much. 459 00:20:47,379 --> 00:20:49,180 >> Charlsie: So bottom line, when it comes to your used 460 00:20:49,180 --> 00:20:52,384 clothing, don't throw it away, try and give it to somebody who 461 00:20:52,384 --> 00:20:53,652 can actually use it. 462 00:20:53,652 --> 00:20:56,254 Hey, girls, does anybody need a tee-shirt? 463 00:20:56,254 --> 00:20:57,889 No, you sure? 464 00:20:57,889 --> 00:20:59,224 Black dress pants? 465 00:20:59,224 --> 00:21:00,726 Hardly ever wore them. 466 00:21:00,726 --> 00:21:01,793 This is cool, right? 467 00:21:01,793 --> 00:21:02,994 Zipper in the back. 468 00:21:02,994 --> 00:21:04,195 >> I think I'm okay. 469 00:21:04,195 --> 00:21:05,297 >> Charlsie: Any chance you want to return yours and 470 00:21:05,297 --> 00:21:06,297 take these ones. 471 00:21:06,297 --> 00:21:07,298 >> No, thank you. 472 00:21:07,298 --> 00:21:08,299 >> Charlsie: They're a size small. 473 00:21:08,299 --> 00:21:09,367 I wore them, like, twice. 474 00:21:09,367 --> 00:21:10,368 >> No, thank you. 475 00:21:10,368 --> 00:21:11,669 >> Charlsie: No? >> No. 476 00:21:11,669 --> 00:21:13,070 >> Charlsie: Do any of you need a pair of pajama pants or know 477 00:21:13,070 --> 00:21:15,573 someone who might want these? 478 00:21:15,573 --> 00:21:17,208 >> I'll take them. >> Charlsie: Tee shirt? 479 00:21:17,208 --> 00:21:18,310 >> I'll take them. 480 00:21:18,310 --> 00:21:20,445 >> Charlsie: Any chance you want a pair of Levi's? 481 00:21:20,445 --> 00:21:22,981 >> Sure, size 6, me. 482 00:21:22,981 --> 00:21:24,215 >> Charlsie: Awesome! >> Awesome. 483 00:21:24,215 --> 00:21:25,216 >> Charlsie: There you go and they won't go 484 00:21:25,216 --> 00:21:26,217 to landfill this way. 485 00:21:26,217 --> 00:21:27,886 >> No. 486 00:21:27,886 --> 00:21:30,355 >> Charlsie: Maybe there is no perfect solution to this 487 00:21:30,355 --> 00:21:31,923 complicated problem. 488 00:21:31,923 --> 00:21:34,425 But if there's something I've learned throughout this process, 489 00:21:34,425 --> 00:21:36,561 it's that there is something I can do and, 490 00:21:36,561 --> 00:21:40,832 for me, that will mean buying less. 491 00:21:40,832 --> 00:21:43,834 [ ♪♪ ] 492 00:21:43,834 --> 00:21:47,139 >> Announcer: A special, year long Marketplace investigation. 493 00:21:47,139 --> 00:21:50,708 We go undercover, inside nursing homes. 494 00:21:50,708 --> 00:21:53,077 >> I was... 495 00:21:53,077 --> 00:21:55,514 >> Announcer: Families fighting for better care. 496 00:21:55,514 --> 00:21:58,683 >> Die, die... 497 00:21:58,683 --> 00:21:59,918 >> Woman: My poor mother. 498 00:21:59,918 --> 00:22:02,887 >> Announcer: Has long term care reached a crisis point? 499 00:22:02,887 --> 00:22:04,789 >> Oh, we're way past that. 500 00:22:04,789 --> 00:22:07,125 I think we've been in crisis for years. 501 00:22:07,125 --> 00:22:09,194 >> If this happened in a day care, 502 00:22:09,194 --> 00:22:11,363 that day care would be shut down in five minutes. 503 00:22:11,363 --> 00:22:13,898 >> Announcer: How to fight for better care, 504 00:22:13,898 --> 00:22:16,101 On the next Marketplace.