WEBVTT

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all right

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Neo or maybe how French would say new

00:00:06.640 --> 00:00:09.960
which is not a new gri petel is listing

00:00:09.960 --> 00:00:12.360
this as a completely new blay device so

00:00:12.360 --> 00:00:14.719
let's see why I had this for about 5

00:00:14.719 --> 00:00:17.240
months I did a bunch of

00:00:17.240 --> 00:00:19.640
climbing I did a bunch of

00:00:19.640 --> 00:00:23.359
testing and I have a bunch of mixed

00:00:23.359 --> 00:00:25.960
feelings about this

00:00:25.960 --> 00:00:29.199
meox so about a year ago I got an email

00:00:29.199 --> 00:00:32.000
from Sebastian petzel turns out that his

00:00:32.000 --> 00:00:34.440
grandpa developed the original idea of

00:00:34.440 --> 00:00:37.719
grigory so I felt very honored by such

00:00:37.719 --> 00:00:41.200
email and he offered me to test this and

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said that I can say whatever I want

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about it so this video is not sponsored

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by petel now what was funny when later I

00:00:48.760 --> 00:00:50.800
was exchanging details with someone from

00:00:50.800 --> 00:00:54.199
petel team and they said that it is safe

00:00:54.199 --> 00:00:57.000
even in the case of your strange

00:00:57.000 --> 00:00:59.320
experiments in case you haven't seen I

00:00:59.320 --> 00:01:01.640
have made a video explaining the physics

00:01:01.640 --> 00:01:05.280
of how gri works and I showed a bunch of

00:01:05.280 --> 00:01:09.119
ways how it would not

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work oh [ __ ] so let's do some of those

00:01:14.280 --> 00:01:17.799
strange experiments and compare grigory

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with neox while grigory weighs 175 G

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neox broke my scale because my scale

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doesn't like blay devices above 200 G

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but Jokes Aside it's 60 G heavier and if

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you would hold them side by side you

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would feel a difference however this

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extra weight did not seem to bother me

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much while delaying now while grigory

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has a very simple mechanism where a

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bunch of frictional forces contribute to

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overcoming the tension in the spring and

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then the cam moves and pinches the Rope

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again I have explained everything in

00:01:57.079 --> 00:01:59.399
this video and it's very interesting and

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I highly recommend to see that because

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Neo actually kept all of that design you

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can see there is still same spring

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camming

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action but now we have a wheel which can

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spin but also it can move up and down

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and if it's in up position the wheel is

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blocked from spinning and at that point

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it acts essentially the same as grig

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[Music]

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so what does all of that mean in

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practice well let's start with the good

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the Rope does run really smoothly for

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the device it's actually very

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satisfying it's super

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smooth however notice that while I'm

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feeding slack I'm not touching the

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device and if this is how you like bling

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and maybe you are coming from tubular

00:02:59.519 --> 00:03:02.560
Style devices you can probably stop this

00:03:02.560 --> 00:03:04.799
video right here go buy this and you

00:03:04.799 --> 00:03:06.720
will be really

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satisfied thank you for

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watching now if you stayed let me

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present some of my speculations I think

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when petzel was developing the original

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grigory this smooth action was actually

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what we were trying to achieve

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however if you try to feed the slack

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like this with original grigory

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depending on your rope thickness and

00:03:32.840 --> 00:03:35.159
many other factors it's very likely that

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the grigory will simply lock and you

00:03:36.920 --> 00:03:39.720
will have some trouble but creative

00:03:39.720 --> 00:03:42.159
climbers came up with a solution is to

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press on the cam to disengage it and

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continue feeding slack like this which

00:03:47.040 --> 00:03:49.760
actually worked so well that if you

00:03:49.760 --> 00:03:53.000
would go to any at least Europe cracks

00:03:53.000 --> 00:03:55.200
you would see that majority of people is

00:03:55.200 --> 00:03:57.239
belaying like this right

00:03:57.239 --> 00:03:59.879
now and of course there is many wrong

00:03:59.879 --> 00:04:02.280
ways how to do this and I showed a bunch

00:04:02.280 --> 00:04:04.920
of wrong ways in the same video however

00:04:04.920 --> 00:04:07.480
if you keep the rope in your brck hand

00:04:07.480 --> 00:04:09.720
even if you're pressing on the cam and

00:04:09.720 --> 00:04:12.000
the climber would fall at that moment

00:04:12.000 --> 00:04:14.720
the grigory is most likely to lock and

00:04:14.720 --> 00:04:16.400
actually if you check the manual of

00:04:16.400 --> 00:04:19.079
grigory you will find this listed as an

00:04:19.079 --> 00:04:22.160
option of giving slack fast but guess

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what if you check the manual of neox

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there is only one way to give slack now

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so here are some more of of my

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speculations original grigory is

00:04:32.320 --> 00:04:34.520
actually designed so well that it's

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quite hard to make it fail and that's

00:04:36.600 --> 00:04:38.960
why it became so popular and that's why

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so many of bad ways of using it became

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very popular and that's why we still

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have accidents with

00:04:46.160 --> 00:04:49.919
it unfortunately so this all brought a

00:04:49.919 --> 00:04:52.400
lot of bad rep for the grigory which is

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kind of strange when one of the safest

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devices is the most criticized probably

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devices and this is what I think petel

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tried to fix by hinting that you know

00:05:04.479 --> 00:05:07.360
what do not touch the device however

00:05:07.360 --> 00:05:11.039
giving slack like this became so popular

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not only because this other method

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wasn't always

00:05:14.880 --> 00:05:17.440
reliable giving slack like this is

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actually more comfortable and bling like

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this is more comfortable and here are a

00:05:21.680 --> 00:05:23.919
couple of reasons I can always give as

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much slack as I want and my blade device

00:05:26.360 --> 00:05:28.800
is not falling down while I'm doing that

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and I'm in the comfortable position now

00:05:30.919 --> 00:05:33.039
with Neo you can actually give slack

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quite fast but the delay device will be

00:05:35.800 --> 00:05:38.639
bouncing all over the place however

00:05:38.639 --> 00:05:42.039
there is another issue if I give slack

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and I prepare to give more slack and now

00:05:43.840 --> 00:05:45.880
I need to take well guess what first I

00:05:45.880 --> 00:05:47.960
need to bring my Brak hand closer to the

00:05:47.960 --> 00:05:50.479
device before I can take so I need to do

00:05:50.479 --> 00:05:53.240
some arm juggling and only then I can

00:05:53.240 --> 00:05:56.199
take with the other method if I'm giving

00:05:56.199 --> 00:05:58.400
slack and suddenly I need to take well I

00:05:58.400 --> 00:06:01.680
just take that's much more practical so

00:06:01.680 --> 00:06:04.560
can you belay like this with Neo well

00:06:04.560 --> 00:06:06.599
the manual doesn't say anything about

00:06:06.599 --> 00:06:09.120
this I tried asking petel and I still

00:06:09.120 --> 00:06:11.680
haven't received reply to my emails so

00:06:11.680 --> 00:06:14.199
if I will do I will add a pinned comment

00:06:14.199 --> 00:06:18.120
now in practice it does work but check

00:06:18.120 --> 00:06:22.280
this out or listen this

00:06:23.880 --> 00:06:27.120
out so yeah it makes a ratcheting sound

00:06:27.120 --> 00:06:29.599
when you try to pull the Rope fast and

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and I gave this device to my friends to

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try they were like is this broken so I

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think it's not broken however it's very

00:06:35.880 --> 00:06:38.440
noticeable and if you are in very quiet

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crack and somebody does I can only

00:06:41.479 --> 00:06:43.479
imagine when this will become even more

00:06:43.479 --> 00:06:45.080
popular and this is going to happen in

00:06:45.080 --> 00:06:47.240
the

00:06:51.160 --> 00:06:53.720
cracks okay let's say you don't care

00:06:53.720 --> 00:06:57.000
about Tranquility at the cracks people

00:06:57.000 --> 00:07:00.240
shout there anyway blast music dogs that

00:07:00.240 --> 00:07:03.400
are barking so a bit of is no problem

00:07:03.400 --> 00:07:06.520
for you and the only thing you care is

00:07:06.520 --> 00:07:09.479
is it safe so same as grig if you press

00:07:09.479 --> 00:07:12.319
on the cam but do not hold the Rope your

00:07:12.319 --> 00:07:15.720
climber is going to un alive and since

00:07:15.720 --> 00:07:18.960
the Rope runs smoother through Neo he or

00:07:18.960 --> 00:07:22.560
she will unal life faster

00:07:22.560 --> 00:07:26.000
so hold the Rope now what about a

00:07:26.000 --> 00:07:29.000
completely No Hands situation first

00:07:29.000 --> 00:07:31.879
let's start with a gri which as you can

00:07:31.879 --> 00:07:35.360
see can definitely

00:07:36.479 --> 00:07:40.639
slip but now let's switch to

00:07:42.280 --> 00:07:44.000
Neo

00:07:44.000 --> 00:07:48.360
whoa it falls uh

00:07:50.560 --> 00:07:53.720
faster it actually falls faster it falls

00:07:53.720 --> 00:07:56.639
smoother smooth death yeah you can have

00:07:56.639 --> 00:07:57.800
a smooth

00:07:57.800 --> 00:08:01.680
death with kind of wants to lock it

00:08:01.680 --> 00:08:04.840
goes but it's not enough for it to lock

00:08:04.840 --> 00:08:08.560
yeah seems like the gri is more grabby

00:08:08.560 --> 00:08:12.120
and more likely to stop the fall in case

00:08:12.120 --> 00:08:15.080
of no hand situation so it looks like a

00:08:15.080 --> 00:08:17.960
slight downgrade compared to the grigory

00:08:17.960 --> 00:08:21.440
in terms of safety and they said I won't

00:08:21.440 --> 00:08:25.479
be able to make it fail with my strange

00:08:25.479 --> 00:08:27.720
experiments but let's switch the gears a

00:08:27.720 --> 00:08:30.000
little bit and let's talk about taking

00:08:30.000 --> 00:08:32.440
the slack since the Rope runs much

00:08:32.440 --> 00:08:35.120
smoother through the device my initial

00:08:35.120 --> 00:08:37.320
thought was that it's going to be much

00:08:37.320 --> 00:08:40.519
easier to take the slack for the last 5

00:08:40.519 --> 00:08:42.640
months when I went climbing I kept

00:08:42.640 --> 00:08:46.120
alternating between neox and gri and I

00:08:46.120 --> 00:08:49.000
couldn't understand if it's easier to

00:08:49.000 --> 00:08:52.360
help the climber with the new device or

00:08:52.360 --> 00:08:55.800
not so let's do some more of my strange

00:08:55.800 --> 00:08:58.720
experiments as they say first I tried

00:08:58.720 --> 00:09:01.440
simple jump

00:09:03.440 --> 00:09:06.600
taking but it was very hard to feel the

00:09:06.600 --> 00:09:10.360
difference except that Neo was

00:09:10.360 --> 00:09:13.240
clicking so then I built this setup

00:09:13.240 --> 00:09:15.399
where I could compare the force needed

00:09:15.399 --> 00:09:18.399
to lift up my weights essentially

00:09:18.399 --> 00:09:20.760
comparing the friction inside the blade

00:09:20.760 --> 00:09:25.040
device yeah so it's moving up at

00:09:27.320 --> 00:09:32.320
0.65 0 64 so let's try the same with the

00:09:32.320 --> 00:09:34.600
old

00:09:41.600 --> 00:09:45.480
gri for some reason it feels harder but

00:09:45.480 --> 00:09:48.600
it's reading the same

00:09:48.600 --> 00:09:51.600
63

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interesting

00:09:56.760 --> 00:09:59.519
65 same

00:09:59.519 --> 00:10:03.560
feel the same so I tried with 60 kog and

00:10:03.560 --> 00:10:05.480
I couldn't feel the difference I tried

00:10:05.480 --> 00:10:08.800
with 40 kilog and where still was no

00:10:08.800 --> 00:10:12.160
difference which left me so confused

00:10:12.160 --> 00:10:14.640
that I probably tried a thousand of

00:10:14.640 --> 00:10:16.959
times to measure it again and again and

00:10:16.959 --> 00:10:20.600
again until I just stopped the camera

00:10:20.600 --> 00:10:23.800
and I noticed something which now

00:10:23.800 --> 00:10:26.760
absolutely makes sense remember when I

00:10:26.760 --> 00:10:29.600
said that the wheel can go up and and

00:10:29.600 --> 00:10:33.320
once it's in up position it's locked and

00:10:33.320 --> 00:10:38.040
then it acts the same as grigri well

00:10:38.040 --> 00:10:42.040
duh it only spins while it's under

00:10:42.040 --> 00:10:44.480
certain load so it's

00:10:44.480 --> 00:10:47.160
easier but if you load it more then it

00:10:47.160 --> 00:10:49.760
locks and then it's the same so this is

00:10:49.760 --> 00:10:50.800
30

00:10:50.800 --> 00:10:53.399
kg the wheel

00:10:53.399 --> 00:10:56.360
spins and then it locks and now the

00:10:56.360 --> 00:11:00.440
wheel is not spinning anymore

00:11:03.639 --> 00:11:05.399
so now I want to figure out what's the

00:11:05.399 --> 00:11:07.560
load needed for the wheel to stop

00:11:07.560 --> 00:11:13.519
spinning and stop helping let's try 20

00:11:19.600 --> 00:11:22.720
kg okay so now it's doing this weird

00:11:22.720 --> 00:11:26.680
clicky clacky thing so that pretty much

00:11:26.680 --> 00:11:29.399
explains why

00:11:29.399 --> 00:11:31.639
this

00:11:31.920 --> 00:11:34.839
happens let's see at what weight it

00:11:34.839 --> 00:11:40.839
would just spin freely and be nice so at

00:11:47.240 --> 00:11:50.880
15 and it goes easy to pull hard easy

00:11:50.880 --> 00:11:54.360
hard easy hard easy hard it's

00:11:55.639 --> 00:12:01.000
like okay this is only 5 kilos

00:12:03.639 --> 00:12:06.279
it's still

00:12:07.760 --> 00:12:12.040
clicking but less so it seems like above

00:12:12.040 --> 00:12:15.800
20 kilos it's permanently locked below

00:12:15.800 --> 00:12:18.680
20 kilos it's clicking clack clack clack

00:12:18.680 --> 00:12:21.920
clack cl cl clck and only on very very

00:12:21.920 --> 00:12:24.320
very minimal loads it's running very

00:12:24.320 --> 00:12:26.360
smoothly

00:12:26.360 --> 00:12:30.199
so disappointing I wanted always to run

00:12:30.199 --> 00:12:32.320
smoothly and then catch fast that would

00:12:32.320 --> 00:12:35.079
be ideal

00:12:37.720 --> 00:12:41.800
device cl cl so yeah it is easier to run

00:12:41.800 --> 00:12:44.920
the Rope through the device without load

00:12:44.920 --> 00:12:47.360
but as soon as the load is applied which

00:12:47.360 --> 00:12:49.680
is when you're helping your climber it

00:12:49.680 --> 00:12:51.959
will start clicky clacky and then at

00:12:51.959 --> 00:12:53.600
some point there is no difference

00:12:53.600 --> 00:12:56.279
anymore so kind of an

00:12:56.279 --> 00:13:01.000
improvement but could be better

00:13:01.000 --> 00:13:04.240
oh and also another thing when I'm going

00:13:04.240 --> 00:13:07.560
down sometimes the wheel needs to click

00:13:07.560 --> 00:13:10.160
back into certain position before it Smo

00:13:10.160 --> 00:13:11.680
again this is kind of annoying when

00:13:11.680 --> 00:13:14.360
you're belaying sometimes when you want

00:13:14.360 --> 00:13:16.519
to lower the climber just a little bit

00:13:16.519 --> 00:13:18.720
there is this little jerk of like click

00:13:18.720 --> 00:13:20.800
and then it's smooth for the rest of the

00:13:20.800 --> 00:13:25.440
time let me show you this again

00:13:35.959 --> 00:13:38.560
so what's the big takeaway of all of

00:13:38.560 --> 00:13:41.320
this new invention I absolutely love how

00:13:41.320 --> 00:13:43.199
smooth the Rope runs through the device

00:13:43.199 --> 00:13:46.360
now don't get me wrong this is fantastic

00:13:46.360 --> 00:13:49.199
I'm impressed by this design and if you

00:13:49.199 --> 00:13:52.480
are delaying like this then as I already

00:13:52.480 --> 00:13:55.360
said this is a massive upgrade to you

00:13:55.360 --> 00:13:57.759
and you should definitely buy this you

00:13:57.759 --> 00:14:00.759
will be very happy oh otherwise I do

00:14:00.759 --> 00:14:02.759
understand the direction that petzel

00:14:02.759 --> 00:14:05.639
took however I think that this is a

00:14:05.639 --> 00:14:07.800
little bit of missed opportunity

00:14:07.800 --> 00:14:10.160
original Gregory was one of the safest

00:14:10.160 --> 00:14:12.560
devices on the market and if only

00:14:12.560 --> 00:14:15.360
instead of trying to Advocate as to keep

00:14:15.360 --> 00:14:18.160
the hands away from it they would have

00:14:18.160 --> 00:14:21.839
made it somehow always lock maybe

00:14:21.839 --> 00:14:24.040
similar to Revo if the Rope is running

00:14:24.040 --> 00:14:26.759
at certain speed maybe it would lock

00:14:26.759 --> 00:14:29.560
that would be amazing and no clicky

00:14:29.560 --> 00:14:30.759
sounds

00:14:30.759 --> 00:14:33.320
please and maybe improve a little bit

00:14:33.320 --> 00:14:36.480
ergonomic how you are holding the device

00:14:36.480 --> 00:14:38.920
and that would be the perfect bling

00:14:38.920 --> 00:14:43.160
device for me personally all right now

00:14:43.160 --> 00:14:45.279
the best part for me of making these

00:14:45.279 --> 00:14:48.800
nerdy videos is the geeky nerdy people

00:14:48.800 --> 00:14:51.480
who leave comments on my stuff I

00:14:51.480 --> 00:14:53.360
actually feel very honored by that and

00:14:53.360 --> 00:14:55.720
if you are one of these smart nerdy or

00:14:55.720 --> 00:14:58.240
geeky people or maybe you want to be

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enjoy climbing and see you in the next

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one thank you for watching