[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.16,0:00:02.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all right Dialogue: 0,0:00:02.00,0:00:06.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Neo or maybe how French would say new Dialogue: 0,0:00:06.64,0:00:09.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is not a new gri petel is listing Dialogue: 0,0:00:09.96,0:00:12.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this as a completely new blay device so Dialogue: 0,0:00:12.36,0:00:14.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's see why I had this for about 5 Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.72,0:00:17.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,months I did a bunch of Dialogue: 0,0:00:17.24,0:00:19.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing I did a bunch of Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.64,0:00:23.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,testing and I have a bunch of mixed Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.36,0:00:25.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feelings about this Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.96,0:00:29.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meox so about a year ago I got an email Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.20,0:00:32.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from Sebastian petzel turns out that his Dialogue: 0,0:00:32.00,0:00:34.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grandpa developed the original idea of Dialogue: 0,0:00:34.44,0:00:37.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigory so I felt very honored by such Dialogue: 0,0:00:37.72,0:00:41.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,email and he offered me to test this and Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.20,0:00:43.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,said that I can say whatever I want Dialogue: 0,0:00:43.20,0:00:46.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about it so this video is not sponsored Dialogue: 0,0:00:46.04,0:00:48.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by petel now what was funny when later I Dialogue: 0,0:00:48.76,0:00:50.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was exchanging details with someone from Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.80,0:00:54.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,petel team and they said that it is safe Dialogue: 0,0:00:54.20,0:00:57.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even in the case of your strange Dialogue: 0,0:00:57.00,0:00:59.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experiments in case you haven't seen I Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.32,0:01:01.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have made a video explaining the physics Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.64,0:01:05.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of how gri works and I showed a bunch of Dialogue: 0,0:01:05.28,0:01:09.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ways how it would not Dialogue: 0,0:01:09.32,0:01:14.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,work oh [ __ ] so let's do some of those Dialogue: 0,0:01:14.28,0:01:17.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,strange experiments and compare grigory Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.80,0:01:23.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with neox while grigory weighs 175 G Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.08,0:01:26.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,neox broke my scale because my scale Dialogue: 0,0:01:26.96,0:01:31.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't like blay devices above 200 G Dialogue: 0,0:01:31.04,0:01:34.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but Jokes Aside it's 60 G heavier and if Dialogue: 0,0:01:34.44,0:01:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you would hold them side by side you Dialogue: 0,0:01:36.24,0:01:39.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would feel a difference however this Dialogue: 0,0:01:39.32,0:01:41.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,extra weight did not seem to bother me Dialogue: 0,0:01:41.72,0:01:44.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much while delaying now while grigory Dialogue: 0,0:01:44.52,0:01:46.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has a very simple mechanism where a Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.60,0:01:49.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bunch of frictional forces contribute to Dialogue: 0,0:01:49.36,0:01:52.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,overcoming the tension in the spring and Dialogue: 0,0:01:52.16,0:01:54.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then the cam moves and pinches the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:01:54.92,0:01:57.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,again I have explained everything in Dialogue: 0,0:01:57.08,0:01:59.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this video and it's very interesting and Dialogue: 0,0:01:59.40,0:02:01.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I highly recommend to see that because Dialogue: 0,0:02:01.28,0:02:03.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Neo actually kept all of that design you Dialogue: 0,0:02:03.96,0:02:06.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can see there is still same spring Dialogue: 0,0:02:06.60,0:02:07.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,camming Dialogue: 0,0:02:07.88,0:02:12.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,action but now we have a wheel which can Dialogue: 0,0:02:12.64,0:02:16.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,spin but also it can move up and down Dialogue: 0,0:02:16.68,0:02:19.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if it's in up position the wheel is Dialogue: 0,0:02:19.80,0:02:22.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,blocked from spinning and at that point Dialogue: 0,0:02:22.60,0:02:27.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it acts essentially the same as grig Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.62,0:02:33.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:02:33.20,0:02:36.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so what does all of that mean in Dialogue: 0,0:02:36.28,0:02:39.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,practice well let's start with the good Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.96,0:02:42.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Rope does run really smoothly for Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.96,0:02:45.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the device it's actually very Dialogue: 0,0:02:45.56,0:02:48.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,satisfying it's super Dialogue: 0,0:02:48.32,0:02:50.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smooth however notice that while I'm Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.64,0:02:53.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feeding slack I'm not touching the Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.12,0:02:56.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device and if this is how you like bling Dialogue: 0,0:02:56.88,0:02:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and maybe you are coming from tubular Dialogue: 0,0:02:59.52,0:03:02.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Style devices you can probably stop this Dialogue: 0,0:03:02.56,0:03:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,video right here go buy this and you Dialogue: 0,0:03:04.80,0:03:06.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be really Dialogue: 0,0:03:06.72,0:03:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,satisfied thank you for Dialogue: 0,0:03:10.88,0:03:13.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,watching now if you stayed let me Dialogue: 0,0:03:13.72,0:03:16.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,present some of my speculations I think Dialogue: 0,0:03:16.68,0:03:19.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when petzel was developing the original Dialogue: 0,0:03:19.36,0:03:22.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigory this smooth action was actually Dialogue: 0,0:03:22.84,0:03:26.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what we were trying to achieve Dialogue: 0,0:03:26.24,0:03:28.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however if you try to feed the slack Dialogue: 0,0:03:28.80,0:03:30.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like this with original grigory Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.76,0:03:32.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,depending on your rope thickness and Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.84,0:03:35.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,many other factors it's very likely that Dialogue: 0,0:03:35.16,0:03:36.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the grigory will simply lock and you Dialogue: 0,0:03:36.92,0:03:39.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will have some trouble but creative Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.72,0:03:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbers came up with a solution is to Dialogue: 0,0:03:42.16,0:03:44.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,press on the cam to disengage it and Dialogue: 0,0:03:44.92,0:03:47.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,continue feeding slack like this which Dialogue: 0,0:03:47.04,0:03:49.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually worked so well that if you Dialogue: 0,0:03:49.76,0:03:53.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would go to any at least Europe cracks Dialogue: 0,0:03:53.00,0:03:55.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you would see that majority of people is Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.20,0:03:57.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belaying like this right Dialogue: 0,0:03:57.24,0:03:59.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now and of course there is many wrong Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.88,0:04:02.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ways how to do this and I showed a bunch Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.28,0:04:04.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of wrong ways in the same video however Dialogue: 0,0:04:04.92,0:04:07.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you keep the rope in your brck hand Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.48,0:04:09.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even if you're pressing on the cam and Dialogue: 0,0:04:09.72,0:04:12.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the climber would fall at that moment Dialogue: 0,0:04:12.00,0:04:14.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the grigory is most likely to lock and Dialogue: 0,0:04:14.72,0:04:16.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually if you check the manual of Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.40,0:04:19.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigory you will find this listed as an Dialogue: 0,0:04:19.08,0:04:22.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,option of giving slack fast but guess Dialogue: 0,0:04:22.16,0:04:24.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what if you check the manual of neox Dialogue: 0,0:04:24.92,0:04:28.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is only one way to give slack now Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.48,0:04:30.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so here are some more of of my Dialogue: 0,0:04:30.12,0:04:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,speculations original grigory is Dialogue: 0,0:04:32.32,0:04:34.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually designed so well that it's Dialogue: 0,0:04:34.52,0:04:36.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,quite hard to make it fail and that's Dialogue: 0,0:04:36.60,0:04:38.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,why it became so popular and that's why Dialogue: 0,0:04:38.96,0:04:41.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so many of bad ways of using it became Dialogue: 0,0:04:41.56,0:04:43.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very popular and that's why we still Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.64,0:04:46.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have accidents with Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.16,0:04:49.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it unfortunately so this all brought a Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.92,0:04:52.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lot of bad rep for the grigory which is Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.40,0:04:55.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kind of strange when one of the safest Dialogue: 0,0:04:55.24,0:04:58.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,devices is the most criticized probably Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.20,0:05:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,devices and this is what I think petel Dialogue: 0,0:05:00.96,0:05:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tried to fix by hinting that you know Dialogue: 0,0:05:04.48,0:05:07.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what do not touch the device however Dialogue: 0,0:05:07.36,0:05:11.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,giving slack like this became so popular Dialogue: 0,0:05:11.04,0:05:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not only because this other method Dialogue: 0,0:05:13.44,0:05:14.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wasn't always Dialogue: 0,0:05:14.88,0:05:17.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reliable giving slack like this is Dialogue: 0,0:05:17.44,0:05:19.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually more comfortable and bling like Dialogue: 0,0:05:19.72,0:05:21.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is more comfortable and here are a Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.68,0:05:23.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,couple of reasons I can always give as Dialogue: 0,0:05:23.92,0:05:26.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much slack as I want and my blade device Dialogue: 0,0:05:26.36,0:05:28.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not falling down while I'm doing that Dialogue: 0,0:05:28.80,0:05:30.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I'm in the comfortable position now Dialogue: 0,0:05:30.92,0:05:33.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with Neo you can actually give slack Dialogue: 0,0:05:33.04,0:05:35.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,quite fast but the delay device will be Dialogue: 0,0:05:35.80,0:05:38.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bouncing all over the place however Dialogue: 0,0:05:38.64,0:05:42.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is another issue if I give slack Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.04,0:05:43.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I prepare to give more slack and now Dialogue: 0,0:05:43.84,0:05:45.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I need to take well guess what first I Dialogue: 0,0:05:45.88,0:05:47.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need to bring my Brak hand closer to the Dialogue: 0,0:05:47.96,0:05:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device before I can take so I need to do Dialogue: 0,0:05:50.48,0:05:53.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some arm juggling and only then I can Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.24,0:05:56.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take with the other method if I'm giving Dialogue: 0,0:05:56.20,0:05:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slack and suddenly I need to take well I Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.40,0:06:01.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just take that's much more practical so Dialogue: 0,0:06:01.68,0:06:04.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can you belay like this with Neo well Dialogue: 0,0:06:04.56,0:06:06.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the manual doesn't say anything about Dialogue: 0,0:06:06.60,0:06:09.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this I tried asking petel and I still Dialogue: 0,0:06:09.12,0:06:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,haven't received reply to my emails so Dialogue: 0,0:06:11.68,0:06:14.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if I will do I will add a pinned comment Dialogue: 0,0:06:14.20,0:06:18.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now in practice it does work but check Dialogue: 0,0:06:18.12,0:06:22.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this out or listen this Dialogue: 0,0:06:23.88,0:06:27.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out so yeah it makes a ratcheting sound Dialogue: 0,0:06:27.12,0:06:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when you try to pull the Rope fast and Dialogue: 0,0:06:29.60,0:06:31.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I gave this device to my friends to Dialogue: 0,0:06:31.12,0:06:33.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,try they were like is this broken so I Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.56,0:06:35.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,think it's not broken however it's very Dialogue: 0,0:06:35.88,0:06:38.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,noticeable and if you are in very quiet Dialogue: 0,0:06:38.44,0:06:41.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,crack and somebody does I can only Dialogue: 0,0:06:41.48,0:06:43.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,imagine when this will become even more Dialogue: 0,0:06:43.48,0:06:45.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,popular and this is going to happen in Dialogue: 0,0:06:45.08,0:06:47.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Dialogue: 0,0:06:51.16,0:06:53.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,cracks okay let's say you don't care Dialogue: 0,0:06:53.72,0:06:57.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about Tranquility at the cracks people Dialogue: 0,0:06:57.00,0:07:00.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,shout there anyway blast music dogs that Dialogue: 0,0:07:00.24,0:07:03.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are barking so a bit of is no problem Dialogue: 0,0:07:03.40,0:07:06.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for you and the only thing you care is Dialogue: 0,0:07:06.52,0:07:09.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is it safe so same as grig if you press Dialogue: 0,0:07:09.48,0:07:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the cam but do not hold the Rope your Dialogue: 0,0:07:12.32,0:07:15.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climber is going to un alive and since Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.72,0:07:18.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Rope runs smoother through Neo he or Dialogue: 0,0:07:18.96,0:07:22.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,she will unal life faster Dialogue: 0,0:07:22.56,0:07:26.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so hold the Rope now what about a Dialogue: 0,0:07:26.00,0:07:29.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely No Hands situation first Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.00,0:07:31.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's start with a gri which as you can Dialogue: 0,0:07:31.88,0:07:35.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see can definitely Dialogue: 0,0:07:36.48,0:07:40.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slip but now let's switch to Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.28,0:07:44.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Neo Dialogue: 0,0:07:44.00,0:07:48.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whoa it falls uh Dialogue: 0,0:07:50.56,0:07:53.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,faster it actually falls faster it falls Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.72,0:07:56.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smoother smooth death yeah you can have Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.64,0:07:57.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a smooth Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.80,0:08:01.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,death with kind of wants to lock it Dialogue: 0,0:08:01.68,0:08:04.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes but it's not enough for it to lock Dialogue: 0,0:08:04.84,0:08:08.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah seems like the gri is more grabby Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.56,0:08:12.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and more likely to stop the fall in case Dialogue: 0,0:08:12.12,0:08:15.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of no hand situation so it looks like a Dialogue: 0,0:08:15.08,0:08:17.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slight downgrade compared to the grigory Dialogue: 0,0:08:17.96,0:08:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in terms of safety and they said I won't Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.44,0:08:25.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,be able to make it fail with my strange Dialogue: 0,0:08:25.48,0:08:27.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experiments but let's switch the gears a Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.72,0:08:30.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit and let's talk about taking Dialogue: 0,0:08:30.00,0:08:32.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the slack since the Rope runs much Dialogue: 0,0:08:32.44,0:08:35.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smoother through the device my initial Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.12,0:08:37.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thought was that it's going to be much Dialogue: 0,0:08:37.32,0:08:40.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easier to take the slack for the last 5 Dialogue: 0,0:08:40.52,0:08:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,months when I went climbing I kept Dialogue: 0,0:08:42.64,0:08:46.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,alternating between neox and gri and I Dialogue: 0,0:08:46.12,0:08:49.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,couldn't understand if it's easier to Dialogue: 0,0:08:49.00,0:08:52.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,help the climber with the new device or Dialogue: 0,0:08:52.36,0:08:55.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not so let's do some more of my strange Dialogue: 0,0:08:55.80,0:08:58.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experiments as they say first I tried Dialogue: 0,0:08:58.72,0:09:01.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,simple jump Dialogue: 0,0:09:03.44,0:09:06.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking but it was very hard to feel the Dialogue: 0,0:09:06.60,0:09:10.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference except that Neo was Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.36,0:09:13.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clicking so then I built this setup Dialogue: 0,0:09:13.24,0:09:15.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where I could compare the force needed Dialogue: 0,0:09:15.40,0:09:18.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to lift up my weights essentially Dialogue: 0,0:09:18.40,0:09:20.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comparing the friction inside the blade Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.76,0:09:25.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device yeah so it's moving up at Dialogue: 0,0:09:27.32,0:09:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,0.65 0 64 so let's try the same with the Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.32,0:09:34.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,old Dialogue: 0,0:09:41.60,0:09:45.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gri for some reason it feels harder but Dialogue: 0,0:09:45.48,0:09:48.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's reading the same Dialogue: 0,0:09:48.60,0:09:51.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,63 Dialogue: 0,0:09:54.20,0:09:56.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interesting Dialogue: 0,0:09:56.76,0:09:59.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,65 same Dialogue: 0,0:09:59.52,0:10:03.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feel the same so I tried with 60 kog and Dialogue: 0,0:10:03.56,0:10:05.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I couldn't feel the difference I tried Dialogue: 0,0:10:05.48,0:10:08.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with 40 kilog and where still was no Dialogue: 0,0:10:08.80,0:10:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference which left me so confused Dialogue: 0,0:10:12.16,0:10:14.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that I probably tried a thousand of Dialogue: 0,0:10:14.64,0:10:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,times to measure it again and again and Dialogue: 0,0:10:16.96,0:10:20.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,again until I just stopped the camera Dialogue: 0,0:10:20.60,0:10:23.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I noticed something which now Dialogue: 0,0:10:23.80,0:10:26.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,absolutely makes sense remember when I Dialogue: 0,0:10:26.76,0:10:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,said that the wheel can go up and and Dialogue: 0,0:10:29.60,0:10:33.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,once it's in up position it's locked and Dialogue: 0,0:10:33.32,0:10:38.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then it acts the same as grigri well Dialogue: 0,0:10:38.04,0:10:42.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,duh it only spins while it's under Dialogue: 0,0:10:42.04,0:10:44.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,certain load so it's Dialogue: 0,0:10:44.48,0:10:47.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,easier but if you load it more then it Dialogue: 0,0:10:47.16,0:10:49.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,locks and then it's the same so this is Dialogue: 0,0:10:49.76,0:10:50.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,30 Dialogue: 0,0:10:50.80,0:10:53.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kg the wheel Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.40,0:10:56.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,spins and then it locks and now the Dialogue: 0,0:10:56.36,0:11:00.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wheel is not spinning anymore Dialogue: 0,0:11:03.64,0:11:05.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so now I want to figure out what's the Dialogue: 0,0:11:05.40,0:11:07.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,load needed for the wheel to stop Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.56,0:11:13.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,spinning and stop helping let's try 20 Dialogue: 0,0:11:19.60,0:11:22.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kg okay so now it's doing this weird Dialogue: 0,0:11:22.72,0:11:26.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clicky clacky thing so that pretty much Dialogue: 0,0:11:26.68,0:11:29.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,explains why Dialogue: 0,0:11:29.40,0:11:31.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this Dialogue: 0,0:11:31.92,0:11:34.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happens let's see at what weight it Dialogue: 0,0:11:34.84,0:11:40.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would just spin freely and be nice so at Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.24,0:11:50.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,15 and it goes easy to pull hard easy Dialogue: 0,0:11:50.88,0:11:54.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard easy hard easy hard it's Dialogue: 0,0:11:55.64,0:12:01.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like okay this is only 5 kilos Dialogue: 0,0:12:03.64,0:12:06.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's still Dialogue: 0,0:12:07.76,0:12:12.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clicking but less so it seems like above Dialogue: 0,0:12:12.04,0:12:15.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,20 kilos it's permanently locked below Dialogue: 0,0:12:15.80,0:12:18.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,20 kilos it's clicking clack clack clack Dialogue: 0,0:12:18.68,0:12:21.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clack cl cl clck and only on very very Dialogue: 0,0:12:21.92,0:12:24.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very minimal loads it's running very Dialogue: 0,0:12:24.32,0:12:26.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smoothly Dialogue: 0,0:12:26.36,0:12:30.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so disappointing I wanted always to run Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.20,0:12:32.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smoothly and then catch fast that would Dialogue: 0,0:12:32.32,0:12:35.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,be ideal Dialogue: 0,0:12:37.72,0:12:41.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device cl cl so yeah it is easier to run Dialogue: 0,0:12:41.80,0:12:44.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Rope through the device without load Dialogue: 0,0:12:44.92,0:12:47.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but as soon as the load is applied which Dialogue: 0,0:12:47.36,0:12:49.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is when you're helping your climber it Dialogue: 0,0:12:49.68,0:12:51.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will start clicky clacky and then at Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.96,0:12:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some point there is no difference Dialogue: 0,0:12:53.60,0:12:56.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anymore so kind of an Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.28,0:13:01.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,improvement but could be better Dialogue: 0,0:13:01.00,0:13:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh and also another thing when I'm going Dialogue: 0,0:13:04.24,0:13:07.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down sometimes the wheel needs to click Dialogue: 0,0:13:07.56,0:13:10.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back into certain position before it Smo Dialogue: 0,0:13:10.16,0:13:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,again this is kind of annoying when Dialogue: 0,0:13:11.68,0:13:14.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're belaying sometimes when you want Dialogue: 0,0:13:14.36,0:13:16.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to lower the climber just a little bit Dialogue: 0,0:13:16.52,0:13:18.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is this little jerk of like click Dialogue: 0,0:13:18.72,0:13:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then it's smooth for the rest of the Dialogue: 0,0:13:20.80,0:13:25.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time let me show you this again Dialogue: 0,0:13:35.96,0:13:38.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so what's the big takeaway of all of Dialogue: 0,0:13:38.56,0:13:41.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this new invention I absolutely love how Dialogue: 0,0:13:41.32,0:13:43.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smooth the Rope runs through the device Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.20,0:13:46.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now don't get me wrong this is fantastic Dialogue: 0,0:13:46.36,0:13:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm impressed by this design and if you Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.20,0:13:52.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are delaying like this then as I already Dialogue: 0,0:13:52.48,0:13:55.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,said this is a massive upgrade to you Dialogue: 0,0:13:55.36,0:13:57.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you should definitely buy this you Dialogue: 0,0:13:57.76,0:14:00.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be very happy oh otherwise I do Dialogue: 0,0:14:00.76,0:14:02.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,understand the direction that petzel Dialogue: 0,0:14:02.76,0:14:05.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,took however I think that this is a Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.64,0:14:07.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit of missed opportunity Dialogue: 0,0:14:07.80,0:14:10.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,original Gregory was one of the safest Dialogue: 0,0:14:10.16,0:14:12.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,devices on the market and if only Dialogue: 0,0:14:12.56,0:14:15.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,instead of trying to Advocate as to keep Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.36,0:14:18.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the hands away from it they would have Dialogue: 0,0:14:18.16,0:14:21.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,made it somehow always lock maybe Dialogue: 0,0:14:21.84,0:14:24.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,similar to Revo if the Rope is running Dialogue: 0,0:14:24.04,0:14:26.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at certain speed maybe it would lock Dialogue: 0,0:14:26.76,0:14:29.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that would be amazing and no clicky Dialogue: 0,0:14:29.56,0:14:30.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sounds Dialogue: 0,0:14:30.76,0:14:33.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,please and maybe improve a little bit Dialogue: 0,0:14:33.32,0:14:36.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ergonomic how you are holding the device Dialogue: 0,0:14:36.48,0:14:38.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that would be the perfect bling Dialogue: 0,0:14:38.92,0:14:43.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,device for me personally all right now Dialogue: 0,0:14:43.16,0:14:45.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the best part for me of making these Dialogue: 0,0:14:45.28,0:14:48.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nerdy videos is the geeky nerdy people Dialogue: 0,0:14:48.80,0:14:51.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who leave comments on my stuff I Dialogue: 0,0:14:51.48,0:14:53.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually feel very honored by that and Dialogue: 0,0:14:53.36,0:14:55.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you are one of these smart nerdy or Dialogue: 0,0:14:55.72,0:14:58.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,geeky people or maybe you want to be Dialogue: 0,0:14:58.24,0:14:59.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then you might enjoy enjoy today's Dialogue: 0,0:14:59.68,0:15:02.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sponsor brilliant brilliant is where you Dialogue: 0,0:15:02.28,0:15:04.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,learn by doing with thousands of Dialogue: 0,0:15:04.64,0:15:06.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interactive lessons in math data Dialogue: 0,0:15:06.80,0:15:10.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,analysis programming and even AI I Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.04,0:15:11.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,always thought that I am a visual Dialogue: 0,0:15:11.92,0:15:14.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,learner and I can simply soak up all the Dialogue: 0,0:15:14.48,0:15:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,information by just watching YouTube Dialogue: 0,0:15:17.20,0:15:19.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however I've been really enjoying Dialogue: 0,0:15:19.24,0:15:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brilliant for its structured approach Dialogue: 0,0:15:22.24,0:15:25.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which also makes you solve problems in a Dialogue: 0,0:15:25.04,0:15:27.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fun and interactive way which is really Dialogue: 0,0:15:27.24,0:15:29.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,great for developing your critical Dialogue: 0,0:15:29.00,0:15:31.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thinking and actually remembering things Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.96,0:15:34.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if you accidentally jump ahead of Dialogue: 0,0:15:34.08,0:15:36.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your own abilities and get completely Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.64,0:15:39.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stuck they also have courses on very Dialogue: 0,0:15:39.36,0:15:41.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Basics so you can fill up your knowledge Dialogue: 0,0:15:41.96,0:15:44.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gaps very easily and since the lessons Dialogue: 0,0:15:44.56,0:15:46.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are bite-sized you can do them anywhere Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.92,0:15:49.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anytime just with your phone even if you Dialogue: 0,0:15:49.60,0:15:52.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just have 5 minutes so here you go a Dialogue: 0,0:15:52.84,0:15:56.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,small daily habit that would compound Dialogue: 0,0:15:56.08,0:16:00.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into you being smarter highly recommend Dialogue: 0,0:16:00.00,0:16:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it and you can try it completely for Dialogue: 0,0:16:01.92,0:16:04.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,free for 30 days by visiting Dialogue: 0,0:16:04.56,0:16:07.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brilliant.org Hardis easy and if you Dialogue: 0,0:16:07.60,0:16:10.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enjoy it as much as I do you will also Dialogue: 0,0:16:10.04,0:16:13.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get 20% off their annual premium Dialogue: 0,0:16:13.12,0:16:16.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,subscription so enjoy being smarter Dialogue: 0,0:16:16.04,0:16:18.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enjoy climbing and see you in the next Dialogue: 0,0:16:18.36,0:16:22.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one thank you for watching