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all right

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Neo or maybe how French would say new

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which is not a new gri petel is listing

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this as a completely new blay device so

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let's see why I had this for about 5

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months I did a bunch of

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climbing I did a bunch of

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testing and I have a bunch of mixed

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feelings about this

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meox so about a year ago I got an email

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from Sebastian petzel turns out that his

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grandpa developed the original idea of

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grigory so I felt very honored by such

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email and he offered me to test this and

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said that I can say whatever I want

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about it so this video is not sponsored

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by petel now what was funny when later I

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was exchanging details with someone from

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petel team and they said that it is safe

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even in the case of your strange

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experiments in case you haven't seen I

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have made a video explaining the physics

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of how gri works and I showed a bunch of

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ways how it would not

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work oh [ __ ] so let's do some of those

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strange experiments and compare grigory

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with neox while grigory weighs 175 G

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neox broke my scale because my scale

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doesn't like blay devices above 200 G

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but Jokes Aside it's 60 G heavier and if

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you would hold them side by side you

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would feel a difference however this

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extra weight did not seem to bother me

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much while delaying now while grigory

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has a very simple mechanism where a

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bunch of frictional forces contribute to

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overcoming the tension in the spring and

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then the cam moves and pinches the Rope

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again I have explained everything in

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this video and it's very interesting and

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I highly recommend to see that because

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Neo actually kept all of that design you

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can see there is still same spring

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camming

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action but now we have a wheel which can

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spin but also it can move up and down

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and if it's in up position the wheel is

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blocked from spinning and at that point

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it acts essentially the same as grig

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[Music]

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so what does all of that mean in

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practice well let's start with the good

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the Rope does run really smoothly for

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the device it's actually very

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satisfying it's super

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smooth however notice that while I'm

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feeding slack I'm not touching the

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device and if this is how you like bling

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and maybe you are coming from tubular

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Style devices you can probably stop this

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video right here go buy this and you

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will be really

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satisfied thank you for

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watching now if you stayed let me

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present some of my speculations I think

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when petzel was developing the original

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grigory this smooth action was actually

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what we were trying to achieve

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however if you try to feed the slack

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like this with original grigory

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depending on your rope thickness and

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many other factors it's very likely that

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the grigory will simply lock and you

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will have some trouble but creative

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climbers came up with a solution is to

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press on the cam to disengage it and

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continue feeding slack like this which

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actually worked so well that if you

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would go to any at least Europe cracks

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you would see that majority of people is

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belaying like this right

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now and of course there is many wrong

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ways how to do this and I showed a bunch

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of wrong ways in the same video however

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if you keep the rope in your brck hand

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even if you're pressing on the cam and

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the climber would fall at that moment

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the grigory is most likely to lock and

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actually if you check the manual of

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grigory you will find this listed as an

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option of giving slack fast but guess

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what if you check the manual of neox

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there is only one way to give slack now

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so here are some more of of my

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speculations original grigory is

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actually designed so well that it's

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quite hard to make it fail and that's

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why it became so popular and that's why

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so many of bad ways of using it became

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very popular and that's why we still

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have accidents with

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it unfortunately so this all brought a

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lot of bad rep for the grigory which is

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kind of strange when one of the safest

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devices is the most criticized probably

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devices and this is what I think petel

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tried to fix by hinting that you know

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what do not touch the device however

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giving slack like this became so popular

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not only because this other method

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wasn't always

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reliable giving slack like this is

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actually more comfortable and bling like

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this is more comfortable and here are a

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couple of reasons I can always give as

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much slack as I want and my blade device

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is not falling down while I'm doing that

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and I'm in the comfortable position now

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with Neo you can actually give slack

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quite fast but the delay device will be

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bouncing all over the place however

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there is another issue if I give slack

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and I prepare to give more slack and now

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I need to take well guess what first I

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need to bring my Brak hand closer to the

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device before I can take so I need to do

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some arm juggling and only then I can

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take with the other method if I'm giving

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slack and suddenly I need to take well I

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just take that's much more practical so

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can you belay like this with Neo well

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the manual doesn't say anything about

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this I tried asking petel and I still

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haven't received reply to my emails so

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if I will do I will add a pinned comment

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now in practice it does work but check

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this out or listen this

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out so yeah it makes a ratcheting sound

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when you try to pull the Rope fast and

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and I gave this device to my friends to

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try they were like is this broken so I

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think it's not broken however it's very

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noticeable and if you are in very quiet

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crack and somebody does I can only

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imagine when this will become even more

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popular and this is going to happen in

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the

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cracks okay let's say you don't care

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about Tranquility at the cracks people

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shout there anyway blast music dogs that

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are barking so a bit of is no problem

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for you and the only thing you care is

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is it safe so same as grig if you press

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on the cam but do not hold the Rope your

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climber is going to un alive and since

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the Rope runs smoother through Neo he or

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she will unal life faster

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so hold the Rope now what about a

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completely No Hands situation first

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let's start with a gri which as you can

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see can definitely

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slip but now let's switch to

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Neo

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whoa it falls uh

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faster it actually falls faster it falls

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smoother smooth death yeah you can have

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a smooth

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death with kind of wants to lock it

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goes but it's not enough for it to lock

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yeah seems like the gri is more grabby

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and more likely to stop the fall in case

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of no hand situation so it looks like a

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slight downgrade compared to the grigory

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in terms of safety and they said I won't

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be able to make it fail with my strange

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experiments but let's switch the gears a

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little bit and let's talk about taking

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the slack since the Rope runs much

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smoother through the device my initial

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thought was that it's going to be much

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easier to take the slack for the last 5

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months when I went climbing I kept

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alternating between neox and gri and I

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couldn't understand if it's easier to

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help the climber with the new device or

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not so let's do some more of my strange

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experiments as they say first I tried

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simple jump

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taking but it was very hard to feel the

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difference except that Neo was

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clicking so then I built this setup

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where I could compare the force needed

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to lift up my weights essentially

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comparing the friction inside the blade

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device yeah so it's moving up at

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0.65 0 64 so let's try the same with the

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old

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gri for some reason it feels harder but

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it's reading the same

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63

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interesting

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65 same

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feel the same so I tried with 60 kog and

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I couldn't feel the difference I tried

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with 40 kilog and where still was no

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difference which left me so confused

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that I probably tried a thousand of

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times to measure it again and again and

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again until I just stopped the camera

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and I noticed something which now

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absolutely makes sense remember when I

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said that the wheel can go up and and

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once it's in up position it's locked and

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then it acts the same as grigri well

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duh it only spins while it's under

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certain load so it's

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easier but if you load it more then it

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locks and then it's the same so this is

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30

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kg the wheel

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spins and then it locks and now the

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wheel is not spinning anymore

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so now I want to figure out what's the

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load needed for the wheel to stop

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spinning and stop helping let's try 20

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kg okay so now it's doing this weird

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clicky clacky thing so that pretty much

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explains why

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this

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happens let's see at what weight it

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would just spin freely and be nice so at

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15 and it goes easy to pull hard easy

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hard easy hard easy hard it's

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like okay this is only 5 kilos

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it's still

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clicking but less so it seems like above

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20 kilos it's permanently locked below

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20 kilos it's clicking clack clack clack

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clack cl cl clck and only on very very

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very minimal loads it's running very

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smoothly

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so disappointing I wanted always to run

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smoothly and then catch fast that would

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be ideal

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device cl cl so yeah it is easier to run

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the Rope through the device without load

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but as soon as the load is applied which

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is when you're helping your climber it

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will start clicky clacky and then at

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some point there is no difference

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anymore so kind of an

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improvement but could be better

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oh and also another thing when I'm going

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down sometimes the wheel needs to click

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back into certain position before it Smo

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again this is kind of annoying when

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you're belaying sometimes when you want

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to lower the climber just a little bit

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there is this little jerk of like click

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and then it's smooth for the rest of the

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time let me show you this again

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so what's the big takeaway of all of

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this new invention I absolutely love how

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smooth the Rope runs through the device

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now don't get me wrong this is fantastic

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I'm impressed by this design and if you

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are delaying like this then as I already

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said this is a massive upgrade to you

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and you should definitely buy this you

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will be very happy oh otherwise I do

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understand the direction that petzel

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took however I think that this is a

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little bit of missed opportunity

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original Gregory was one of the safest

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devices on the market and if only

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instead of trying to Advocate as to keep

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the hands away from it they would have

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made it somehow always lock maybe

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similar to Revo if the Rope is running

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at certain speed maybe it would lock

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that would be amazing and no clicky

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sounds

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please and maybe improve a little bit

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ergonomic how you are holding the device

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