0:00:00.160,0:00:02.000
all right

0:00:02.000,0:00:06.640
Neo or maybe how French would say new

0:00:06.640,0:00:09.960
which is not a new gri petel is listing

0:00:09.960,0:00:12.360
this as a completely new blay device so

0:00:12.360,0:00:14.719
let's see why I had this for about 5

0:00:14.719,0:00:17.240
months I did a bunch of

0:00:17.240,0:00:19.640
climbing I did a bunch of

0:00:19.640,0:00:23.359
testing and I have a bunch of mixed

0:00:23.359,0:00:25.960
feelings about this

0:00:25.960,0:00:29.199
meox so about a year ago I got an email

0:00:29.199,0:00:32.000
from Sebastian petzel turns out that his

0:00:32.000,0:00:34.440
grandpa developed the original idea of

0:00:34.440,0:00:37.719
grigory so I felt very honored by such

0:00:37.719,0:00:41.200
email and he offered me to test this and

0:00:41.200,0:00:43.200
said that I can say whatever I want

0:00:43.200,0:00:46.039
about it so this video is not sponsored

0:00:46.039,0:00:48.760
by petel now what was funny when later I

0:00:48.760,0:00:50.800
was exchanging details with someone from

0:00:50.800,0:00:54.199
petel team and they said that it is safe

0:00:54.199,0:00:57.000
even in the case of your strange

0:00:57.000,0:00:59.320
experiments in case you haven't seen I

0:00:59.320,0:01:01.640
have made a video explaining the physics

0:01:01.640,0:01:05.280
of how gri works and I showed a bunch of

0:01:05.280,0:01:09.119
ways how it would not

0:01:09.320,0:01:14.280
work oh [ __ ] so let's do some of those

0:01:14.280,0:01:17.799
strange experiments and compare grigory

0:01:17.799,0:01:23.079
with neox while grigory weighs 175 G

0:01:23.079,0:01:26.960
neox broke my scale because my scale

0:01:26.960,0:01:31.040
doesn't like blay devices above 200 G

0:01:31.040,0:01:34.439
but Jokes Aside it's 60 G heavier and if

0:01:34.439,0:01:36.240
you would hold them side by side you

0:01:36.240,0:01:39.320
would feel a difference however this

0:01:39.320,0:01:41.720
extra weight did not seem to bother me

0:01:41.720,0:01:44.520
much while delaying now while grigory

0:01:44.520,0:01:46.600
has a very simple mechanism where a

0:01:46.600,0:01:49.360
bunch of frictional forces contribute to

0:01:49.360,0:01:52.159
overcoming the tension in the spring and

0:01:52.159,0:01:54.920
then the cam moves and pinches the Rope

0:01:54.920,0:01:57.079
again I have explained everything in

0:01:57.079,0:01:59.399
this video and it's very interesting and

0:01:59.399,0:02:01.280
I highly recommend to see that because

0:02:01.280,0:02:03.960
Neo actually kept all of that design you

0:02:03.960,0:02:06.600
can see there is still same spring

0:02:06.600,0:02:07.879
camming

0:02:07.879,0:02:12.640
action but now we have a wheel which can

0:02:12.640,0:02:16.680
spin but also it can move up and down

0:02:16.680,0:02:19.800
and if it's in up position the wheel is

0:02:19.800,0:02:22.599
blocked from spinning and at that point

0:02:22.599,0:02:27.620
it acts essentially the same as grig

0:02:27.620,0:02:33.200
[Music]

0:02:33.200,0:02:36.280
so what does all of that mean in

0:02:36.280,0:02:39.959
practice well let's start with the good

0:02:39.959,0:02:42.959
the Rope does run really smoothly for

0:02:42.959,0:02:45.560
the device it's actually very

0:02:45.560,0:02:48.319
satisfying it's super

0:02:48.319,0:02:50.640
smooth however notice that while I'm

0:02:50.640,0:02:53.120
feeding slack I'm not touching the

0:02:53.120,0:02:56.879
device and if this is how you like bling

0:02:56.879,0:02:59.519
and maybe you are coming from tubular

0:02:59.519,0:03:02.560
Style devices you can probably stop this

0:03:02.560,0:03:04.799
video right here go buy this and you

0:03:04.799,0:03:06.720
will be really

0:03:06.720,0:03:10.239
satisfied thank you for

0:03:10.879,0:03:13.720
watching now if you stayed let me

0:03:13.720,0:03:16.680
present some of my speculations I think

0:03:16.680,0:03:19.360
when petzel was developing the original

0:03:19.360,0:03:22.840
grigory this smooth action was actually

0:03:22.840,0:03:26.239
what we were trying to achieve

0:03:26.239,0:03:28.799
however if you try to feed the slack

0:03:28.799,0:03:30.760
like this with original grigory

0:03:30.760,0:03:32.840
depending on your rope thickness and

0:03:32.840,0:03:35.159
many other factors it's very likely that

0:03:35.159,0:03:36.920
the grigory will simply lock and you

0:03:36.920,0:03:39.720
will have some trouble but creative

0:03:39.720,0:03:42.159
climbers came up with a solution is to

0:03:42.159,0:03:44.920
press on the cam to disengage it and

0:03:44.920,0:03:47.040
continue feeding slack like this which

0:03:47.040,0:03:49.760
actually worked so well that if you

0:03:49.760,0:03:53.000
would go to any at least Europe cracks

0:03:53.000,0:03:55.200
you would see that majority of people is

0:03:55.200,0:03:57.239
belaying like this right

0:03:57.239,0:03:59.879
now and of course there is many wrong

0:03:59.879,0:04:02.280
ways how to do this and I showed a bunch

0:04:02.280,0:04:04.920
of wrong ways in the same video however

0:04:04.920,0:04:07.480
if you keep the rope in your brck hand

0:04:07.480,0:04:09.720
even if you're pressing on the cam and

0:04:09.720,0:04:12.000
the climber would fall at that moment

0:04:12.000,0:04:14.720
the grigory is most likely to lock and

0:04:14.720,0:04:16.400
actually if you check the manual of

0:04:16.400,0:04:19.079
grigory you will find this listed as an

0:04:19.079,0:04:22.160
option of giving slack fast but guess

0:04:22.160,0:04:24.919
what if you check the manual of neox

0:04:24.919,0:04:28.479
there is only one way to give slack now

0:04:28.479,0:04:30.120
so here are some more of of my

0:04:30.120,0:04:32.320
speculations original grigory is

0:04:32.320,0:04:34.520
actually designed so well that it's

0:04:34.520,0:04:36.600
quite hard to make it fail and that's

0:04:36.600,0:04:38.960
why it became so popular and that's why

0:04:38.960,0:04:41.560
so many of bad ways of using it became

0:04:41.560,0:04:43.639
very popular and that's why we still

0:04:43.639,0:04:46.160
have accidents with

0:04:46.160,0:04:49.919
it unfortunately so this all brought a

0:04:49.919,0:04:52.400
lot of bad rep for the grigory which is

0:04:52.400,0:04:55.240
kind of strange when one of the safest

0:04:55.240,0:04:58.199
devices is the most criticized probably

0:04:58.199,0:05:00.960
devices and this is what I think petel

0:05:00.960,0:05:04.479
tried to fix by hinting that you know

0:05:04.479,0:05:07.360
what do not touch the device however

0:05:07.360,0:05:11.039
giving slack like this became so popular

0:05:11.039,0:05:13.440
not only because this other method

0:05:13.440,0:05:14.880
wasn't always

0:05:14.880,0:05:17.440
reliable giving slack like this is

0:05:17.440,0:05:19.720
actually more comfortable and bling like

0:05:19.720,0:05:21.680
this is more comfortable and here are a

0:05:21.680,0:05:23.919
couple of reasons I can always give as

0:05:23.919,0:05:26.360
much slack as I want and my blade device

0:05:26.360,0:05:28.800
is not falling down while I'm doing that

0:05:28.800,0:05:30.919
and I'm in the comfortable position now

0:05:30.919,0:05:33.039
with Neo you can actually give slack

0:05:33.039,0:05:35.800
quite fast but the delay device will be

0:05:35.800,0:05:38.639
bouncing all over the place however

0:05:38.639,0:05:42.039
there is another issue if I give slack

0:05:42.039,0:05:43.840
and I prepare to give more slack and now

0:05:43.840,0:05:45.880
I need to take well guess what first I

0:05:45.880,0:05:47.960
need to bring my Brak hand closer to the

0:05:47.960,0:05:50.479
device before I can take so I need to do

0:05:50.479,0:05:53.240
some arm juggling and only then I can

0:05:53.240,0:05:56.199
take with the other method if I'm giving

0:05:56.199,0:05:58.400
slack and suddenly I need to take well I

0:05:58.400,0:06:01.680
just take that's much more practical so

0:06:01.680,0:06:04.560
can you belay like this with Neo well

0:06:04.560,0:06:06.599
the manual doesn't say anything about

0:06:06.599,0:06:09.120
this I tried asking petel and I still

0:06:09.120,0:06:11.680
haven't received reply to my emails so

0:06:11.680,0:06:14.199
if I will do I will add a pinned comment

0:06:14.199,0:06:18.120
now in practice it does work but check

0:06:18.120,0:06:22.280
this out or listen this

0:06:23.880,0:06:27.120
out so yeah it makes a ratcheting sound

0:06:27.120,0:06:29.599
when you try to pull the Rope fast and

0:06:29.599,0:06:31.120
and I gave this device to my friends to

0:06:31.120,0:06:33.560
try they were like is this broken so I

0:06:33.560,0:06:35.880
think it's not broken however it's very

0:06:35.880,0:06:38.440
noticeable and if you are in very quiet

0:06:38.440,0:06:41.479
crack and somebody does I can only

0:06:41.479,0:06:43.479
imagine when this will become even more

0:06:43.479,0:06:45.080
popular and this is going to happen in

0:06:45.080,0:06:47.240
the

0:06:51.160,0:06:53.720
cracks okay let's say you don't care

0:06:53.720,0:06:57.000
about Tranquility at the cracks people

0:06:57.000,0:07:00.240
shout there anyway blast music dogs that

0:07:00.240,0:07:03.400
are barking so a bit of is no problem

0:07:03.400,0:07:06.520
for you and the only thing you care is

0:07:06.520,0:07:09.479
is it safe so same as grig if you press

0:07:09.479,0:07:12.319
on the cam but do not hold the Rope your

0:07:12.319,0:07:15.720
climber is going to un alive and since

0:07:15.720,0:07:18.960
the Rope runs smoother through Neo he or

0:07:18.960,0:07:22.560
she will unal life faster

0:07:22.560,0:07:26.000
so hold the Rope now what about a

0:07:26.000,0:07:29.000
completely No Hands situation first

0:07:29.000,0:07:31.879
let's start with a gri which as you can

0:07:31.879,0:07:35.360
see can definitely

0:07:36.479,0:07:40.639
slip but now let's switch to

0:07:42.280,0:07:44.000
Neo

0:07:44.000,0:07:48.360
whoa it falls uh

0:07:50.560,0:07:53.720
faster it actually falls faster it falls

0:07:53.720,0:07:56.639
smoother smooth death yeah you can have

0:07:56.639,0:07:57.800
a smooth

0:07:57.800,0:08:01.680
death with kind of wants to lock it

0:08:01.680,0:08:04.840
goes but it's not enough for it to lock

0:08:04.840,0:08:08.560
yeah seems like the gri is more grabby

0:08:08.560,0:08:12.120
and more likely to stop the fall in case

0:08:12.120,0:08:15.080
of no hand situation so it looks like a

0:08:15.080,0:08:17.960
slight downgrade compared to the grigory

0:08:17.960,0:08:21.440
in terms of safety and they said I won't

0:08:21.440,0:08:25.479
be able to make it fail with my strange

0:08:25.479,0:08:27.720
experiments but let's switch the gears a

0:08:27.720,0:08:30.000
little bit and let's talk about taking

0:08:30.000,0:08:32.440
the slack since the Rope runs much

0:08:32.440,0:08:35.120
smoother through the device my initial

0:08:35.120,0:08:37.320
thought was that it's going to be much

0:08:37.320,0:08:40.519
easier to take the slack for the last 5

0:08:40.519,0:08:42.640
months when I went climbing I kept

0:08:42.640,0:08:46.120
alternating between neox and gri and I

0:08:46.120,0:08:49.000
couldn't understand if it's easier to

0:08:49.000,0:08:52.360
help the climber with the new device or

0:08:52.360,0:08:55.800
not so let's do some more of my strange

0:08:55.800,0:08:58.720
experiments as they say first I tried

0:08:58.720,0:09:01.440
simple jump

0:09:03.440,0:09:06.600
taking but it was very hard to feel the

0:09:06.600,0:09:10.360
difference except that Neo was

0:09:10.360,0:09:13.240
clicking so then I built this setup

0:09:13.240,0:09:15.399
where I could compare the force needed

0:09:15.399,0:09:18.399
to lift up my weights essentially

0:09:18.399,0:09:20.760
comparing the friction inside the blade

0:09:20.760,0:09:25.040
device yeah so it's moving up at

0:09:27.320,0:09:32.320
0.65 0 64 so let's try the same with the

0:09:32.320,0:09:34.600
old

0:09:41.600,0:09:45.480
gri for some reason it feels harder but

0:09:45.480,0:09:48.600
it's reading the same

0:09:48.600,0:09:51.600
63

0:09:54.200,0:09:56.760
interesting

0:09:56.760,0:09:59.519
65 same

0:09:59.519,0:10:03.560
feel the same so I tried with 60 kog and

0:10:03.560,0:10:05.480
I couldn't feel the difference I tried

0:10:05.480,0:10:08.800
with 40 kilog and where still was no

0:10:08.800,0:10:12.160
difference which left me so confused

0:10:12.160,0:10:14.640
that I probably tried a thousand of

0:10:14.640,0:10:16.959
times to measure it again and again and

0:10:16.959,0:10:20.600
again until I just stopped the camera

0:10:20.600,0:10:23.800
and I noticed something which now

0:10:23.800,0:10:26.760
absolutely makes sense remember when I

0:10:26.760,0:10:29.600
said that the wheel can go up and and

0:10:29.600,0:10:33.320
once it's in up position it's locked and

0:10:33.320,0:10:38.040
then it acts the same as grigri well

0:10:38.040,0:10:42.040
duh it only spins while it's under

0:10:42.040,0:10:44.480
certain load so it's

0:10:44.480,0:10:47.160
easier but if you load it more then it

0:10:47.160,0:10:49.760
locks and then it's the same so this is

0:10:49.760,0:10:50.800
30

0:10:50.800,0:10:53.399
kg the wheel

0:10:53.399,0:10:56.360
spins and then it locks and now the

0:10:56.360,0:11:00.440
wheel is not spinning anymore

0:11:03.639,0:11:05.399
so now I want to figure out what's the

0:11:05.399,0:11:07.560
load needed for the wheel to stop

0:11:07.560,0:11:13.519
spinning and stop helping let's try 20

0:11:19.600,0:11:22.720
kg okay so now it's doing this weird

0:11:22.720,0:11:26.680
clicky clacky thing so that pretty much

0:11:26.680,0:11:29.399
explains why

0:11:29.399,0:11:31.639
this

0:11:31.920,0:11:34.839
happens let's see at what weight it

0:11:34.839,0:11:40.839
would just spin freely and be nice so at

0:11:47.240,0:11:50.880
15 and it goes easy to pull hard easy

0:11:50.880,0:11:54.360
hard easy hard easy hard it's

0:11:55.639,0:12:01.000
like okay this is only 5 kilos

0:12:03.639,0:12:06.279
it's still

0:12:07.760,0:12:12.040
clicking but less so it seems like above

0:12:12.040,0:12:15.800
20 kilos it's permanently locked below

0:12:15.800,0:12:18.680
20 kilos it's clicking clack clack clack

0:12:18.680,0:12:21.920
clack cl cl clck and only on very very

0:12:21.920,0:12:24.320
very minimal loads it's running very

0:12:24.320,0:12:26.360
smoothly

0:12:26.360,0:12:30.199
so disappointing I wanted always to run

0:12:30.199,0:12:32.320
smoothly and then catch fast that would

0:12:32.320,0:12:35.079
be ideal

0:12:37.720,0:12:41.800
device cl cl so yeah it is easier to run

0:12:41.800,0:12:44.920
the Rope through the device without load

0:12:44.920,0:12:47.360
but as soon as the load is applied which

0:12:47.360,0:12:49.680
is when you're helping your climber it

0:12:49.680,0:12:51.959
will start clicky clacky and then at

0:12:51.959,0:12:53.600
some point there is no difference

0:12:53.600,0:12:56.279
anymore so kind of an

0:12:56.279,0:13:01.000
improvement but could be better

0:13:01.000,0:13:04.240
oh and also another thing when I'm going

0:13:04.240,0:13:07.560
down sometimes the wheel needs to click

0:13:07.560,0:13:10.160
back into certain position before it Smo

0:13:10.160,0:13:11.680
again this is kind of annoying when

0:13:11.680,0:13:14.360
you're belaying sometimes when you want

0:13:14.360,0:13:16.519
to lower the climber just a little bit

0:13:16.519,0:13:18.720
there is this little jerk of like click

0:13:18.720,0:13:20.800
and then it's smooth for the rest of the

0:13:20.800,0:13:25.440
time let me show you this again

0:13:35.959,0:13:38.560
so what's the big takeaway of all of

0:13:38.560,0:13:41.320
this new invention I absolutely love how

0:13:41.320,0:13:43.199
smooth the Rope runs through the device

0:13:43.199,0:13:46.360
now don't get me wrong this is fantastic

0:13:46.360,0:13:49.199
I'm impressed by this design and if you

0:13:49.199,0:13:52.480
are delaying like this then as I already

0:13:52.480,0:13:55.360
said this is a massive upgrade to you

0:13:55.360,0:13:57.759
and you should definitely buy this you

0:13:57.759,0:14:00.759
will be very happy oh otherwise I do

0:14:00.759,0:14:02.759
understand the direction that petzel

0:14:02.759,0:14:05.639
took however I think that this is a

0:14:05.639,0:14:07.800
little bit of missed opportunity

0:14:07.800,0:14:10.160
original Gregory was one of the safest

0:14:10.160,0:14:12.560
devices on the market and if only

0:14:12.560,0:14:15.360
instead of trying to Advocate as to keep

0:14:15.360,0:14:18.160
the hands away from it they would have

0:14:18.160,0:14:21.839
made it somehow always lock maybe

0:14:21.839,0:14:24.040
similar to Revo if the Rope is running

0:14:24.040,0:14:26.759
at certain speed maybe it would lock

0:14:26.759,0:14:29.560
that would be amazing and no clicky

0:14:29.560,0:14:30.759
sounds

0:14:30.759,0:14:33.320
please and maybe improve a little bit

0:14:33.320,0:14:36.480
ergonomic how you are holding the device

0:14:36.480,0:14:38.920
and that would be the perfect bling

0:14:38.920,0:14:43.160
device for me personally all right now

0:14:43.160,0:14:45.279
the best part for me of making these

0:14:45.279,0:14:48.800
nerdy videos is the geeky nerdy people

0:14:48.800,0:14:51.480
who leave comments on my stuff I

0:14:51.480,0:14:53.360
actually feel very honored by that and

0:14:53.360,0:14:55.720
if you are one of these smart nerdy or

0:14:55.720,0:14:58.240
geeky people or maybe you want to be

0:14:58.240,0:14:59.680
then you might enjoy enjoy today's

0:14:59.680,0:15:02.279
sponsor brilliant brilliant is where you

0:15:02.279,0:15:04.639
learn by doing with thousands of

0:15:04.639,0:15:06.800
interactive lessons in math data

0:15:06.800,0:15:10.040
analysis programming and even AI I

0:15:10.040,0:15:11.920
always thought that I am a visual

0:15:11.920,0:15:14.480
learner and I can simply soak up all the

0:15:14.480,0:15:17.199
information by just watching YouTube

0:15:17.199,0:15:19.240
however I've been really enjoying

0:15:19.240,0:15:22.240
brilliant for its structured approach

0:15:22.240,0:15:25.040
which also makes you solve problems in a

0:15:25.040,0:15:27.240
fun and interactive way which is really

0:15:27.240,0:15:29.000
great for developing your critical

0:15:29.000,0:15:31.959
thinking and actually remembering things

0:15:31.959,0:15:34.079
and if you accidentally jump ahead of

0:15:34.079,0:15:36.639
your own abilities and get completely

0:15:36.639,0:15:39.360
stuck they also have courses on very

0:15:39.360,0:15:41.959
Basics so you can fill up your knowledge

0:15:41.959,0:15:44.560
gaps very easily and since the lessons

0:15:44.560,0:15:46.920
are bite-sized you can do them anywhere

0:15:46.920,0:15:49.600
anytime just with your phone even if you

0:15:49.600,0:15:52.839
just have 5 minutes so here you go a

0:15:52.839,0:15:56.079
small daily habit that would compound

0:15:56.079,0:16:00.000
into you being smarter highly recommend

0:16:00.000,0:16:01.920
it and you can try it completely for

0:16:01.920,0:16:04.560
free for 30 days by visiting

0:16:04.560,0:16:07.600
brilliant.org Hardis easy and if you

0:16:07.600,0:16:10.040
enjoy it as much as I do you will also

0:16:10.040,0:16:13.120
get 20% off their annual premium

0:16:13.120,0:16:16.040
subscription so enjoy being smarter

0:16:16.040,0:16:18.360
enjoy climbing and see you in the next

0:16:18.360,0:16:22.480
one thank you for watching