all right
Neo or maybe how French would say new
which is not a new gri petel is listing
this as a completely new blay device so
let's see why I had this for about 5
months I did a bunch of
climbing I did a bunch of
testing and I have a bunch of mixed
feelings about this
meox so about a year ago I got an email
from Sebastian petzel turns out that his
grandpa developed the original idea of
grigory so I felt very honored by such
email and he offered me to test this and
said that I can say whatever I want
about it so this video is not sponsored
by petel now what was funny when later I
was exchanging details with someone from
petel team and they said that it is safe
even in the case of your strange
experiments in case you haven't seen I
have made a video explaining the physics
of how gri works and I showed a bunch of
ways how it would not
work oh [ __ ] so let's do some of those
strange experiments and compare grigory
with neox while grigory weighs 175 G
neox broke my scale because my scale
doesn't like blay devices above 200 G
but Jokes Aside it's 60 G heavier and if
you would hold them side by side you
would feel a difference however this
extra weight did not seem to bother me
much while delaying now while grigory
has a very simple mechanism where a
bunch of frictional forces contribute to
overcoming the tension in the spring and
then the cam moves and pinches the Rope
again I have explained everything in
this video and it's very interesting and
I highly recommend to see that because
Neo actually kept all of that design you
can see there is still same spring
camming
action but now we have a wheel which can
spin but also it can move up and down
and if it's in up position the wheel is
blocked from spinning and at that point
it acts essentially the same as grig
[Music]
so what does all of that mean in
practice well let's start with the good
the Rope does run really smoothly for
the device it's actually very
satisfying it's super
smooth however notice that while I'm
feeding slack I'm not touching the
device and if this is how you like bling
and maybe you are coming from tubular
Style devices you can probably stop this
video right here go buy this and you
will be really
satisfied thank you for
watching now if you stayed let me
present some of my speculations I think
when petzel was developing the original
grigory this smooth action was actually
what we were trying to achieve
however if you try to feed the slack
like this with original grigory
depending on your rope thickness and
many other factors it's very likely that
the grigory will simply lock and you
will have some trouble but creative
climbers came up with a solution is to
press on the cam to disengage it and
continue feeding slack like this which
actually worked so well that if you
would go to any at least Europe cracks
you would see that majority of people is
belaying like this right
now and of course there is many wrong
ways how to do this and I showed a bunch
of wrong ways in the same video however
if you keep the rope in your brck hand
even if you're pressing on the cam and
the climber would fall at that moment
the grigory is most likely to lock and
actually if you check the manual of
grigory you will find this listed as an
option of giving slack fast but guess
what if you check the manual of neox
there is only one way to give slack now
so here are some more of of my
speculations original grigory is
actually designed so well that it's
quite hard to make it fail and that's
why it became so popular and that's why
so many of bad ways of using it became
very popular and that's why we still
have accidents with
it unfortunately so this all brought a
lot of bad rep for the grigory which is
kind of strange when one of the safest
devices is the most criticized probably
devices and this is what I think petel
tried to fix by hinting that you know
what do not touch the device however
giving slack like this became so popular
not only because this other method
wasn't always
reliable giving slack like this is
actually more comfortable and bling like
this is more comfortable and here are a
couple of reasons I can always give as
much slack as I want and my blade device
is not falling down while I'm doing that
and I'm in the comfortable position now
with Neo you can actually give slack
quite fast but the delay device will be
bouncing all over the place however
there is another issue if I give slack
and I prepare to give more slack and now
I need to take well guess what first I
need to bring my Brak hand closer to the
device before I can take so I need to do
some arm juggling and only then I can
take with the other method if I'm giving
slack and suddenly I need to take well I
just take that's much more practical so
can you belay like this with Neo well
the manual doesn't say anything about
this I tried asking petel and I still
haven't received reply to my emails so
if I will do I will add a pinned comment
now in practice it does work but check
this out or listen this
out so yeah it makes a ratcheting sound
when you try to pull the Rope fast and
and I gave this device to my friends to
try they were like is this broken so I
think it's not broken however it's very
noticeable and if you are in very quiet
crack and somebody does I can only
imagine when this will become even more
popular and this is going to happen in
the
cracks okay let's say you don't care
about Tranquility at the cracks people
shout there anyway blast music dogs that
are barking so a bit of is no problem
for you and the only thing you care is
is it safe so same as grig if you press
on the cam but do not hold the Rope your
climber is going to un alive and since
the Rope runs smoother through Neo he or
she will unal life faster
so hold the Rope now what about a
completely No Hands situation first
let's start with a gri which as you can
see can definitely
slip but now let's switch to
Neo
whoa it falls uh
faster it actually falls faster it falls
smoother smooth death yeah you can have
a smooth
death with kind of wants to lock it
goes but it's not enough for it to lock
yeah seems like the gri is more grabby
and more likely to stop the fall in case
of no hand situation so it looks like a
slight downgrade compared to the grigory
in terms of safety and they said I won't
be able to make it fail with my strange
experiments but let's switch the gears a
little bit and let's talk about taking
the slack since the Rope runs much
smoother through the device my initial
thought was that it's going to be much
easier to take the slack for the last 5
months when I went climbing I kept
alternating between neox and gri and I
couldn't understand if it's easier to
help the climber with the new device or
not so let's do some more of my strange
experiments as they say first I tried
simple jump
taking but it was very hard to feel the
difference except that Neo was
clicking so then I built this setup
where I could compare the force needed
to lift up my weights essentially
comparing the friction inside the blade
device yeah so it's moving up at
0.65 0 64 so let's try the same with the
old
gri for some reason it feels harder but
it's reading the same
63
interesting
65 same
feel the same so I tried with 60 kog and
I couldn't feel the difference I tried
with 40 kilog and where still was no
difference which left me so confused
that I probably tried a thousand of
times to measure it again and again and
again until I just stopped the camera
and I noticed something which now
absolutely makes sense remember when I
said that the wheel can go up and and
once it's in up position it's locked and
then it acts the same as grigri well
duh it only spins while it's under
certain load so it's
easier but if you load it more then it
locks and then it's the same so this is
30
kg the wheel
spins and then it locks and now the
wheel is not spinning anymore
so now I want to figure out what's the
load needed for the wheel to stop
spinning and stop helping let's try 20
kg okay so now it's doing this weird
clicky clacky thing so that pretty much
explains why
this
happens let's see at what weight it
would just spin freely and be nice so at
15 and it goes easy to pull hard easy
hard easy hard easy hard it's
like okay this is only 5 kilos
it's still
clicking but less so it seems like above
20 kilos it's permanently locked below
20 kilos it's clicking clack clack clack
clack cl cl clck and only on very very
very minimal loads it's running very
smoothly
so disappointing I wanted always to run
smoothly and then catch fast that would
be ideal
device cl cl so yeah it is easier to run
the Rope through the device without load
but as soon as the load is applied which
is when you're helping your climber it
will start clicky clacky and then at
some point there is no difference
anymore so kind of an
improvement but could be better
oh and also another thing when I'm going
down sometimes the wheel needs to click
back into certain position before it Smo
again this is kind of annoying when
you're belaying sometimes when you want
to lower the climber just a little bit
there is this little jerk of like click
and then it's smooth for the rest of the
time let me show you this again
so what's the big takeaway of all of
this new invention I absolutely love how
smooth the Rope runs through the device
now don't get me wrong this is fantastic
I'm impressed by this design and if you
are delaying like this then as I already
said this is a massive upgrade to you
and you should definitely buy this you
will be very happy oh otherwise I do
understand the direction that petzel
took however I think that this is a
little bit of missed opportunity
original Gregory was one of the safest
devices on the market and if only
instead of trying to Advocate as to keep
the hands away from it they would have
made it somehow always lock maybe
similar to Revo if the Rope is running
at certain speed maybe it would lock
that would be amazing and no clicky
sounds
please and maybe improve a little bit
ergonomic how you are holding the device
and that would be the perfect bling
device for me personally all right now
the best part for me of making these
nerdy videos is the geeky nerdy people
who leave comments on my stuff I
actually feel very honored by that and
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