[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.01,0:00:05.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,>> Skewness, or torque, is the annoying characteristic of some fabrics and
Dialogue: 0,0:00:05.15,0:00:10.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,garments to twist after laundering. As a result of skewing, side seams, sleeves,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:11.01,0:00:14.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,legs, and other parts of a garment will become displaced, leading to an
Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.87,0:00:22.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unsatisfactory appearance. "AATCC Test Method 179: -- Skewness Change in Fabric
Dialogue: 0,0:00:22.19,0:00:27.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Garment Twist Resulting from Automatic Home Laundering." This test method
Dialogue: 0,0:00:27.14,0:00:31.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,determines change in skewness in woven and knitted fabrics, or twist in
Dialogue: 0,0:00:31.66,0:00:36.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,garments, when subjected to repeated automatic laundering procedures commonly
Dialogue: 0,0:00:36.04,0:00:40.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,used in the home. Washing and drying procedures used for shrinkage tests, and
Dialogue: 0,0:00:40.94,0:00:45.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,other home laundering tests, are specified for this method. For some fabrics,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.88,0:00:50.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the degree of twist in the garments is not solely depended on its behavior in
Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.06,0:00:55.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the unsewn state. It also may be dependent on the manner of garment assembly.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:55.20,0:00:59.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Notice that one pant leg on this garment has skew and the other does not.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.90,0:01:04.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Garment twist is defined as a rotation, usually lateral, between different
Dialogue: 0,0:01:04.52,0:01:08.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,panels of a garment, resulting from the release of latent stresses of the woven
Dialogue: 0,0:01:08.76,0:01:13.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or knitted fabric forming the garment, that build up in manufacturing during
Dialogue: 0,0:01:13.04,0:01:19.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,laundering. Twist may also be referred to as torque or spirality. Skewness is
Dialogue: 0,0:01:19.34,0:01:23.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,defined as a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses
Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.70,0:01:28.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the
Dialogue: 0,0:01:28.24,0:01:38.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fabric. Change in skewness in fabric, or twist in garment, is measured using
Dialogue: 0,0:01:38.87,0:01:43.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,benchmarks applied to the specimens before laundering. The displacement measured
Dialogue: 0,0:01:43.69,0:02:13.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from the original marks is the basis for determining skewness. Two test methods
Dialogue: 0,0:02:14.99,0:02:19.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are used for determining skewness. The first method makes use of a square that
Dialogue: 0,0:02:19.63,0:02:23.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is drawn on the fabric or garment prior to laundering. After laundering the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:23.93,0:02:32.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,distortion of the square is measured. The other method makes use of lines that
Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.86,0:02:36.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,intersect at a right angle. After laundering, the displacement of the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:36.86,0:02:42.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,intersecting lines is expressed in percentage skew. Three specimens are tested
Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.56,0:02:47.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for each sample, to increase the precision of the average. When testing fabrics,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:47.51,0:02:52.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where possible, cut specimens from different areas of the fabric so that each
Dialogue: 0,0:02:52.11,0:02:56.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,specimen will contain different groups of lengthwise and widthwise yarns.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:56.78,0:03:02.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Identify the fabric face. Mark the lengthwise direction on each specimen.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:02.70,0:03:07.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Whenever dimensional change, appearance, and skewness measurements are required
Dialogue: 0,0:03:07.62,0:03:13.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for fabrics, the specimen dimensions can be the same for that used in "AATCC
Dialogue: 0,0:03:13.26,0:03:18.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Method 124: Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering," or
Dialogue: 0,0:03:18.89,0:03:24.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in "AATCC Method 135: Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering." In
Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.89,0:03:30.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these cases, marking by skewness method one is used. Method one makes use of
Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.55,0:03:36.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,benchmarks placed on fabric swatches, or on large panels of a garment. Here, a
Dialogue: 0,0:03:36.23,0:03:41.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,knit fabric has a 15 by 15 inch square template placed with the vertical edges
Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.57,0:03:45.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,parallel to the edge of the fabric. The parameter of the template is marked to
Dialogue: 0,0:03:45.99,0:03:51.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,define the size of the specimen. Then the specimen is marked with 10 inch pairs
Dialogue: 0,0:03:51.04,0:03:55.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of benchmarks parallel to the length of the specimen and two 10 inch pairs of
Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.80,0:04:00.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,benchmarks are marked perpendicular to the length of the specimen. Next, the
Dialogue: 0,0:04:00.72,0:04:05.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,benchmarks are labeled as A, B, C, and D in clockwise direction, starting with
Dialogue: 0,0:04:05.98,0:04:10.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the lower left corner. A line is then drawn through each of the four sets of
Dialogue: 0,0:04:10.24,0:04:40.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,adjacent benchmarks so that a square is formed. Finally, the specimen is cut
Dialogue: 0,0:05:23.53,0:05:29.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,down to the 15 by 15 inch marks for laundering. When testing fabrics, test three
Dialogue: 0,0:05:29.38,0:05:34.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,specimens whenever possible. When testing garments using this method, test three
Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.93,0:05:39.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,garment specimens, or a total of three areas of two garments, to increase
Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.53,0:05:58.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,precision of the average. Use the largest panels in the garments. After
Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.11,0:06:06.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,laundering, follow the procedures found in AATCC Test Methods 124, 135, 143, and
Dialogue: 0,0:06:06.25,0:06:12.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,179 for preparation and condition prior to testing. After conditioning, lay each
Dialogue: 0,0:06:12.61,0:06:17.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,test specimen -- without tension -- on a flat, smooth, horizontal surface for a
Dialogue: 0,0:06:17.15,0:06:22.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measurement. Method one, which uses a square with the corners marked A, B, C,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:22.53,0:06:27.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and D, measures the sheer distortion of the square by analyzing the diagonals of
Dialogue: 0,0:06:27.83,0:06:33.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the square. The analysis of the skewness square requires the measurements of the
Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.14,0:06:38.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,diagonal lines and a percent skewness calculation is made from those diagonal
Dialogue: 0,0:06:38.12,0:06:44.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lengths. Diagonal line AC is measured in inches and recorded to the nearest one
Dialogue: 0,0:06:44.04,0:07:12.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hundredth of an inch. The diagonal length for BD is also measured and recorded.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:12.64,0:07:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,As stated, method one calculates the percentage change in skewness of the
Dialogue: 0,0:07:17.22,0:07:22.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,displaced square. The lengths of the diagonal lines AC and BD are measured to
Dialogue: 0,0:07:22.78,0:07:28.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the nearest tenth of an inch. In this option, the diagonals AC and BD are used
Dialogue: 0,0:07:28.50,0:07:34.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in a formula that expresses sheer distortion of a plain. The value is expressed
Dialogue: 0,0:07:34.07,0:07:40.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the nearest 0.1 percent, as follows. The difference between the diagonals is
Dialogue: 0,0:07:40.25,0:07:45.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multiplied by a factor of two and then divided by the sum of the diagonals. This
Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.89,0:07:51.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,number is multiplied by 100 to give the percentage of skewness. For example, if
Dialogue: 0,0:07:51.25,0:08:00.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,diagonal AC is 13.70 inches and BD is 13.65 inches, then the percent skewness
Dialogue: 0,0:08:00.07,0:08:09.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would be 13.70 minus 13.65 times 2. And this product, divided by 13.70 plus
Dialogue: 0,0:08:09.61,0:08:16.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,13.65, and this value multiplied by 100, will give 3.7 percent skewness. A
Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.34,0:08:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,positive percent change indicates product skewness to the left, which is
Dialogue: 0,0:08:20.34,0:08:25.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,referred to as left-hand skew. A negative percent change indicates product
Dialogue: 0,0:08:25.12,0:08:29.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,skewness to the right, which is referred to as right hand skew. Marking method
Dialogue: 0,0:08:29.93,0:08:34.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,two uses different benchmarks as compared to method one for fabric specimens and
Dialogue: 0,0:08:34.81,0:08:39.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,garments. Using a suitable marking device, a horizontal reference line is drawn
Dialogue: 0,0:08:39.97,0:08:45.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,across the width of the specimen and is labeled YZ. Line YZ should be
Dialogue: 0,0:08:45.56,0:08:49.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,approximately three inches above the bottom edge of the fabric specimen, or the
Dialogue: 0,0:08:49.52,0:08:54.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hem of the garment. If the bottom edge, or hem, is not straight, draw the
Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.43,0:09:00.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reference line perpendicular to the vertical axis of symmetry of the specimen.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:00.19,0:09:05.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Place a bench mark -- A -- perpendicular to, and midway, on line YZ. Place one
Dialogue: 0,0:09:05.79,0:09:10.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,leg of a right angle marking device along YZ so that the second leg is on a
Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.87,0:09:16.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,perpendicular upward from point A. At a distance of 20 inches up the right angle
Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.53,0:09:22.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,marking device, directly above point A, draw a benchmark parallel to line YZ.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:22.46,0:09:27.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Draw a vertical benchmark starting at 19 inches from point A perpendicular to
Dialogue: 0,0:09:27.68,0:09:33.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,line YZ to intersect the previous benchmark. Label the intersection of the
Dialogue: 0,0:09:33.50,0:09:42.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,benchmarks S.B. If the specimen size is insufficient to mark a 500 millimeter --
Dialogue: 0,0:09:42.48,0:09:47.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,20 inch -- length, mark the longest available length, which is at least 75
Dialogue: 0,0:09:47.60,0:09:53.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,millimeters -- three inches -- below the upper edge of the test specimen. As
Dialogue: 0,0:09:53.68,0:09:58.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,described earlier, the second method uses intersecting perpendicular lines that
Dialogue: 0,0:09:58.54,0:10:03.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can be expressed as an inverted T marking on garment panels and some fabric
Dialogue: 0,0:10:03.28,0:10:08.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,specimens. The percentage skewness is obtained by how much the inverted T has
Dialogue: 0,0:10:08.31,0:10:13.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,distorted. After laundering, a right angle marking ruler is placed with one leg
Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.53,0:10:18.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the ruler placed along the line YZ, so that the vertical second leg passes up
Dialogue: 0,0:10:18.51,0:10:24.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,through point B. A new benchmark is drawn along the perpendicular on line YZ.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:24.23,0:10:30.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The intersection of the new benchmark and the line YZ identifies point A prime.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:30.55,0:10:35.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The length of the line AA prime is measured and recorded to the nearest tenth of
Dialogue: 0,0:10:35.17,0:10:39.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,an inch or smaller increment. This distance is the displacement of the right
Dialogue: 0,0:10:39.99,0:10:53.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,angle. The length of line AB is also measured and recorded. Finally, the
Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.03,0:11:02.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,skewness to the left or right is indicated. The percent skewness in this method
Dialogue: 0,0:11:02.92,0:11:07.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is a simple proportion of the amount of the displaced distance of point A as
Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.30,0:11:13.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,defined by AA prime to the length of the vertical line segment AB. Skewness is
Dialogue: 0,0:11:13.18,0:11:20.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reported to the nearest 0.1 percent. The equation used is as follows: AA prime
Dialogue: 0,0:11:20.15,0:11:26.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is divided by AB and multiplied by 100 to give the percent change in skewness.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:26.29,0:11:33.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In this example, line AA prime was 0.425 inches in length and line AB was found
Dialogue: 0,0:11:33.41,0:11:41.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be 18.85 inches. Therefore, the percent skewness is 0.425 divided by 18.85,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.37,0:11:47.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multiplied by 100, and equals 2.3 percent skewness. An important factor in
Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.25,0:11:52.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,skewness is that the longer the garment, the more obvious the skewness. This
Dialogue: 0,0:11:52.21,0:11:56.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,illustration shows a couple of pairs of knit pants made from the same fabric and
Dialogue: 0,0:11:56.51,0:12:01.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,having the three percent skewness for both pairs. Normally this level of
Dialogue: 0,0:12:01.50,0:12:06.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,skewness is considered acceptable. Pair A has an inseam of 10 inches, while pair
Dialogue: 0,0:12:06.61,0:12:13.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,B has an inseam of 30 inches. Therefore, the side seam shown for A is displaced
Dialogue: 0,0:12:13.11,0:12:20.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,0.3 inches. The side seam for B is displaced 0.9 inches. Pair B appears to have
Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.18,0:12:25.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much more skewness. However, the percentage change is the same. This example
Dialogue: 0,0:12:25.86,0:12:30.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,shows that panel lengths in garments may appear to be worse than the actual
Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.06,0:12:31.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,skewness measured.