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I grew up in a place with a lot of food
that rich people called junk food.
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We didn't call it junk food.
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We just called it food.
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We went to one place in Mexico
taking bold steps
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to address the fact that nutrition
can be pretty damn expensive.
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(Emily) In Oaxaca, food is a vital part of
tradition, ritual, and community.
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Tlayudas that go with meat,
cheese, and lard
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are my favorite food.
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My favorite dish is black mole.
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Zucchini with cheese.
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(Emily) And more recently business.
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Thousands of tourists
flocked to the city's restaurants
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confirming its standing
as a global food Mecca.
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But this phenomenon masks a major
and growing problem among locals.
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An obesity and diabetes epidemic
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fueled by highly processed food.
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BANNED FOOD
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(Emily) One third of kids in Mexico
are overweight and obese
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and more than 10% of its population
has diabetes.
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Mexico has one of the highest number
of diabetes cases in the world.
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It's the country's number one killer.
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My favorite junk food is fried food.
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I like buying a lot of chips and soda.
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I love chips because they are very tasty.
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(Emily) The government is trying to
tackle the problem.
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In October 2020, new federal regulations
went into effect
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requiring black octagon labels
on food products,
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warning against high sugar,
salt, or fat content.
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The state of Oaxaca,
also ban the sale of junk food to kids.
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The question is, will it work?
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Four chocolate ones.
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So two, three, four.
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(Emily) Mayra Hernandez runs
a corner store in Oaxaca City.
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Do you think that the labels actually
make a difference in what people purchase?
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I don't think so.
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Client's don't give it much thought.
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As you can see here,
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these have the new labels,
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but people still take the same products.
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Why do you think junk food
has become so popular here in Oaxaca?
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The lack of money.
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Salaries are very low.
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If you want a proper breakfast,
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like some eggs and coffee with milk,
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you spend 45 - 50 pesos [$2 to $2.50].
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If you buy this, it costs half of that.
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Have you seen a change in sales
because of the prohibition
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on selling junk food to kids?
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No, I haven't seen it.
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Sometimes the dad comes
with the shopping list
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for what the kid wants.
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When I go to the store,
I don't look at the nutrition labels.
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The truth is I haven't looked at
the new labels.
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I went to the pharmacy to buy a soda,
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but they said they couldn't sell it to me
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because I am underage.
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(Emily) There's some evidence
that warning labels work.
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Chile started requiring them in 2016
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and the sale of sodas fell by nearly 25%.
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But getting people to eat healthier
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could also require a cultural shift.
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Charlynne Curiel studies
people's eating habits.
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(Charlynne) There is
an association of status
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that makes people think that
[processed food] is better.
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That is easier, makes you more modern,
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and that you've left traditions behind.
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The prohibition
on selling junk food to minors,
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what do you make of it?
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It's necessary.
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It is a step, just like the new labels.
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These are important steps.
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But I don't think they threaten
the interests of the industry.
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As Oaxaca has become more well-known,
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have local people here change their diets?
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In the last few years, these products
have really flooded the market,
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and because of how easy it is to consume
these hyper-processed foods,
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they have an incredible reach.
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So, anywhere in this state
where there is electricity,
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you will find a refrigerator
with Coca-Cola.
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It's time to eat! Let's eat!
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(Emily) The Garcia family lives
on the outskirts of Oaxaca City.
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There's a long history of diabetes
in their family
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and they're trying to eat healthier.
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(Raquel) He can drink a little bit
if he wants.
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(Emily) But that demands
more money and time.
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(Emily) What are you cooking?
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(Raquel) I'm making a chicken Milanese.
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And I'll make zucchini with cheese.
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Thank you for having me at the table.
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For lunch.
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(Rigoberto) Give her a spoon and a cup.
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(Emily) What is the soup made with?
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(Rigoberto) Pumpkin, tomato...
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(Raquel) Tomato, onion, and cheese.
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(Emily) A family recipe.
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(Raquel) Yes.
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(Emily) A year ago or two,
what would you normally eat at lunch?
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A lot of coke, but now
we have more water than coke.
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We'd have one at lunch,
another for breakfast,
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and another for dinner.
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A big bottle just like the one
he brought over.
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For you guys, was it hard
to change your diet?
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Yes,
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(Emily) Why?
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Because...
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(Rigoberto) You were used to it.
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I was used to having sugar.
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Are you scared of becoming diabetic?
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Yes.
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(Luis) Because I have seen my dad.
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(Rigoberto) And your grandpa.
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(Luis) My grandpa.
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What changed a year ago
that you decided that you had to
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stop eating so much junk food
and stop drinking soft drinks?
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The doctor told me that I had to change
my diet for my kids.
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The doctor also said that
I can't eat too many fats or sugars
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because of my gallbladder.
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If I don't take care of myself,
I will need surgery.
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(Emily) You change your diet
for your kids more than anything?
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Yes, for the kids.