I grew up in a place with a lot of food
that rich people called junk food.
We didn't call it junk food.
We just called it food.
We went to one place in Mexico
taking bold steps
to address the fact that nutrition
can be pretty damn expensive.
(Emily) In Oaxaca, food is a vital part of
tradition, ritual, and community.
Tlayudas that go with meat,
cheese, and lard
are my favorite food.
My favorite dish is black mole.
Zucchini with cheese.
(Emily) And more recently business.
Thousands of tourists
flocked to the city's restaurants
confirming its standing
as a global food Mecca.
But this phenomenon masks a major
and growing problem among locals.
An obesity and diabetes epidemic
fueled by highly processed food.
BANNED FOOD
(Emily) One third of kids in Mexico
are overweight and obese
and more than 10% of its population
has diabetes.
Mexico has one of the highest number
of diabetes cases in the world.
It's the country's number one killer.
My favorite junk food is fried food.
I like buying a lot of chips and soda.
I love chips because they are very tasty.
(Emily) The government is trying to
tackle the problem.
In October 2020, new federal regulations
went into effect
requiring black octagon labels
on food products,
warning against high sugar,
salt, or fat content.
The state of Oaxaca,
also ban the sale of junk food to kids.
The question is, will it work?
Four chocolate ones.
So two, three, four.
(Emily) Mayra Hernandez runs
a corner store in Oaxaca City.
Do you think that the labels actually
make a difference in what people purchase?
I don't think so.
Client's don't give it much thought.
As you can see here,
these have the new labels,
but people still take the same products.
Why do you think junk food
has become so popular here in Oaxaca?
The lack of money.
Salaries are very low.
If you want a proper breakfast,
like some eggs and coffee with milk,
you spend 45 - 50 pesos [$2 to $2.50].
If you buy this, it costs half of that.
Have you seen a change in sales
because of the prohibition
on selling junk food to kids?
No, I haven't seen it.
Sometimes the dad comes
with the shopping list
for what the kid wants.
When I go to the store,
I don't look at the nutrition labels.
The truth is I haven't looked at
the new labels.
I went to the pharmacy to buy a soda,
but they said they couldn't sell it to me
because I am underage.
(Emily) There's some evidence
that warning labels work.
Chile started requiring them in 2016
and the sale of sodas fell by nearly 25%.
But getting people to eat healthier
could also require a cultural shift.
Charlynne Curiel studies
people's eating habits.
(Charlynne) There is
an association of status
that makes people think that
[processed food] is better.
That is easier, makes you more modern,
and that you've left traditions behind.
The prohibition
on selling junk food to minors,
what do you make of it?
It's necessary.
It is a step, just like the new labels.
These are important steps.
But I don't think they threaten
the interests of the industry.
As Oaxaca has become more well-known,
have local people here change their diets?
In the last few years, these products
have really flooded the market,
and because of how easy it is to consume
these hyper-processed foods,
they have an incredible reach.
So, anywhere in this state
where there is electricity,
you will find a refrigerator
with Coca-Cola.
It's time to eat! Let's eat!
(Emily) The Garcia family lives
on the outskirts of Oaxaca City.
There's a long history of diabetes
in their family
and they're trying to eat healthier.
(Raquel) He can drink a little bit
if he wants.
(Emily) But that demands
more money and time.
(Emily) What are you cooking?
(Raquel) I'm making a chicken Milanese.
And I'll make zucchini with cheese.
Thank you for having me at the table.
For lunch.
(Rigoberto) Give her a spoon and a cup.
(Emily) What is the soup made with?
(Rigoberto) Pumpkin, tomato...
(Raquel) Tomato, onion, and cheese.
(Emily) A family recipe.
(Raquel) Yes.
(Emily) A year ago or two,
what would you normally eat at lunch?
A lot of coke, but now
we have more water than coke.
We'd have one at lunch,
another for breakfast,
and another for dinner.
A big bottle just like the one
he brought over.
For you guys, was it hard
to change your diet?
Yes,
(Emily) Why?
Because...
(Rigoberto) You were used to it.
I was used to having sugar.
Are you scared of becoming diabetic?
Yes.
(Luis) Because I have seen my dad.
(Rigoberto) And your grandpa.
(Luis) My grandpa.
What changed a year ago
that you decided that you had to
stop eating so much junk food
and stop drinking soft drinks?
The doctor told me that I had to change
my diet for my kids.
The doctor also said that
I can't eat too many fats or sugars
because of my gallbladder.
If I don't take care of myself,
I will need surgery.
(Emily) You change your diet
for your kids more than anything?
Yes, for the kids.