I started life as a fashion designer,

working closely with textile designers
and fabric suppliers.

But today, I can no longer see
or talk to my new collaborators,

because they're in the soil
beneath our feet,

on the shelves of our supermarkets,

and in the beer I'm going to drink
when I finish this talk.

I'm talking about microbes

and designing with life.

Fifteen years ago,

I completely changed
both what I worked with

and how I worked,

after a revelatory collaboration
with a biologist.

Our project gave me
a different perspective on life,

introducing a whole new
world of possibility

around how we can design and make things.

I discovered a radical
manufacturing proposition.

Biofabrication.

Literally, fabricating with biology.

What does that mean?

Well, instead of processing
plants, animals or oil

to make consumer materials,

we might grow materials directly

with living organisms.

In what many are terming
the fourth industrial revolution,

we're thinking about the new factories
as being living cells.

Bacteria, algae, fungi, yeast,

our latest design tools

include those of biotechnology.

My own journey in biofabrication

started with a project called Biocouture.

The provocation was that instead
of growing a plant, like cotton,

in a field over several months,

we could use microbes

to grow a similar cellulose material

in a lab, in a few days.

Using a certain species of bacteria,

in a nutrient-rich liquid,

we fermented threads of cellulose

that self-organized
into a sheet of fabric.

I dried the fabric I had grown,

and cut and sewed it

into a range of garments, shows and bags.

In other words,
in one lab we grew materials

and turned them into a range of products

in a matter of days.

And this is in contrast
to currents methods of fabric production,

where a plant is grown,

just the cotton part is harvested,

processed into a yarn,

woven into a fabric

and then potentially shipped across oceans

before being cut and sewn into a garment.

All of that can take months.

So these prototypes

indicated a field offering
significant resource efficiencies.

From reducing the water,
energy and chemistry needed

in the production of a material,

through to generating zero waste.

We grew fabrics to finished form.

If you like, biological
additive manufacture.

Through biofabrication

I had replaced many
intensive man-made steps

with one biological step.

And as I engaged with living system,

it transformed my design thinking.

Here was biology,
with no intervention from me,

other than designing initial
conditions for growth,

efficiently producing a useful,
sustainable material.

So now I can't help but see all materials
through the lens of biofabrication.

In fact, there's a growing
global community

of innovators rethinking
materials with biology.

Multiple companies are now
growing mushroom materials,

but not literally mushrooms,

using mycelium,

which is the root system of fungi,

to bind together agricultural byproducts,

and it's a process that's been
described as nature's glue.

A common way to do this
is to take a 3D mold,

fill it with a waste crop,
like corn storks or hemp,

add water,

wait a few days for the mycelium
to grow throughout,

remove the mold,

and you're left with a grown 3D form.

Incredibly, we can grow
all kinds of structures

using living organisms.

From foams, that can replace
plastics in footwear,

to leather-like materials
without animals.

Furniture, flooring, all
are currently being prototyped.

Fungi are able to grow materials

that are naturally fire retardant

without any chemicals.

They're naturally hydrophobic,

meaning they won't absorb water.

They have higher melt
temperatures than plastics.

Polystyrene can take thousands
of years to degrade.

Mushroom packaging materials

can be naturally composted
in your back garden,

in as little as 30 days.

Living organisms are transforming waste

into cost-competitive,
performance-matching materials,

that can start to replace plastics

and other CO2-emitting materials.

And once we start growing materials
with living organisms,

it starts to make previous methods
of manufacture seem illogical.

Take the humble house brick.

The cement industry generates
around eight percent

of global CO2 emissions.

That's more than all the planes
and ships each year.

The cement process

requires materials to be fired in a kiln
at over 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit.

Compare this to bioMASON.

They use a soil microbe
to transform loose aggregates,

like sand or crushed stone,

into a biofabricated, or biocement, brick.

Their process happens at room temperature

in just a couple of days.

Think hydroponics for bricks.

An irrigation system

feeds nutrient-rich water
to trays of bricks

that have been inoculated with bacteria.

The bacteria produce crystals

that form around each grain of sand,

locking together all the loose particles

to form a solid brick.

We can now grow construction materials

in the elegant way nature does,

just like a coral reef.

And these biofabricated bricks
are nearly three times stronger

than a concrete block.

And in stark contrast
to traditional cement production,

they store more carbon than they make.

So if we could replace
the 1.2 trillion fired bricks

that are made each year

with biofabricated bricks,

we could reduce CO2 emissions

by 800 million tons every year.

(Applause)

Beyond growing materials
with living organisms,

we're even starting to design products

that encourage their growth.

And this comes from the realization

that the very thing
we've been trying to marginalize,

life,

might actually be our
greatest collaborator.

To that end, we've been
exploring all the ways

that we can grow healthy microbes
in our own ecosystems.

A great example of this is architects

who are imagining the skin of a building

to function like the bark of a tree.

But not as a cosmetic green layer.

They're designing architectural barks

as hosts for evolving ecologies.

These surface structures
are designed to invite life in.

And if we apply the same energy

we currently do suppressing forms of life

towards cultivating life,

we turn the negative image
of the urban jungle

into one that literally embodies
a thriving, living ecosystem.

By actively encouraging

surface interactions
with healthy microbes,

we could improve passive climate control,

storm water management,

and even reduce CO2 emissions

by lowering the energy
used to heat or cool our buildings.

We're just beginning
to realize the potential

of nature-based technologies.

I'm excited that we're starting
to design and biofabricate

a new material world.

It's one that moves away
from the exploitation

of nonrenewable resources,

to working with the original,
renewable life.

Instead of designing out life,

we're designing with it and for it.

Packaging, fashion, footwear,
furniture, construction,

biofabricated products can be grown
close to centers of demand,

with local resources, less land, energy,

and even harnessing
industrial waste streams.

It used to be that the tools
of biotechnology

were the preserve of powerful,

multinational chemical
and biotech companies.

In the last century,

we expected material innovation

to come from the likes
of DuPont, Dow, BASF.

But this 21st century material revolution

is being led by start-ups,

with small teams and limited capital.

And by the way, not all their founders
have science degrees.

They include artists,
architects and designers.

Over a billion dollars
has already been invested

in start-ups biofabricating
consumer products.

I don't think we have a choice
but to biofabricate our future.

From the jacket you're wearing,

to the chair you're sitting in,

to the home you live in,

your designed material world

shouldn't compromise your health,

or that of our planet.

If materials can't be recycled

or naturally composted at home,

we should reject them.

I'm committed to making
this future a reality,

by shining a light
on all the amazing work

being done today.

And by facilitating more interactions

between designers, scientists,
investors and brands.

Because we need a material revolution

and we need it now.

Thank you.

(Applause)