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all right welcome back to belay Master

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Class previously in this series I

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covered every single piece of gear that

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you will encounter in sport climbing

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some Ninja ways to tie knots and top

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rope belaying now we're ready for lead

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belaying

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but before I start I have to say that

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just because you watch a YouTube video

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doesn't mean that now you know

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I know Kung Fu

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show me

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[Scream]

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[Music]

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yeah so use this video only as

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supplemental information to whatever

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practical training you're doing

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hopefully with somebody experienced and

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this video is not about how to use your

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playing device I covered that very

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deeply in this video so if you're

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somebody new to climbing I highly

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recommend to watch these two videos

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first also I have to mention that there

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is still debates in the climbing

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community of what is the correct way of

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using the belaying device and different

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countries have different recommendations

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one subject for disagreement is

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so-called tunneling method where you're

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sliding your Brig hand like this when

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you're taking Slack

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[Music]

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and I covered this topic in this video

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but my personal take is that this

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sliding is not an issue if you're using

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assisted delay devices and then there is

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another disagreement on the proper use

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of grigri official petzl recommendation

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is when you're giving slack you can do

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this but then if you need to give more

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slack fast you can press on grigri's cam

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while you have the rope with three

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fingers on the rope and continue giving

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slack like this however after that you

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should bring your brake hand away from

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the grigri however if You observe

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experienced climbers you will notice

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that most of them will not bring the

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brake hand down and will simply keep the

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hand on the grigri all the time and

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there is benefits to that first you can

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give more slack than this way while your

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left hand is pulling up the right hand

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can pull down and now you just added

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extra slack second by having your break

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hand here you can take the most amount

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of slack because if your hand is

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somewhere Midway now you are very

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limited of how much slack you can take

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you will need to bring the hand back if

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you want to take a lot of slack so this

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position naturally gives you the most

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control in any situation and allows you

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to micromanage the slack the drawback of

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this is that in some rare cases if you

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don't have a good grip on the hand the

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grigri might slip so you have to be

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aware of this especially if you're using

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super skinny ropes but despite of that

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risk you will see me keeping my hand on

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the grigri most of the time because this

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is my preference and you choose the

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method which works for you and I go to

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belay

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all right so we want to lead this route

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and me as a player I will be spending a

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lot of time looking up and since I'm

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looking up I don't have enough time to

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look down what's under my feet so it's a

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good idea to prepare the space so I will

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not trip over something so if there are

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some things you might consider moving

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them I don't know what this thing is

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doing here next I look into the route and

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see where it goes in this case I see a

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lot of chalk on the left side so that's

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where the climber is going to climb and

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so I want to avoid standing in his fall

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zone so I will be standing a little bit

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more to the right so I place my rope bag

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even more to the right but in front of

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me in this case if there is any Tangles

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with the Rope I can see them and deal

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with them easily if I would place my

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rope back behind me it's more

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complicated to see issues with the Rope

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okay then you get a climber and before I

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take him on belay I like to look into

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the first bolt and estimate how much

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rope he will need to clip it so in this

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case it's more or less like that

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I always go a little bit on the bigger

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side because safer as always

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safer and before he goes on the route we

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obviously need to do a buddy check but

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as I already mentioned in the top rope

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video I don't even like to call it a

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buddy check because if I would just

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Chuck my body and my buddy would just

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check me there is chances of failure in

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particular we are not even sure if we

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are on correct ends of the Rope so

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instead of that this is what you do

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first I check my harness to make sure

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that my buckles are secure then the

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Carabiner it needs to be locked then the

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laying device needs to be inserted in a

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correct orientation and then I start

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tracing my rope you might see people

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even collecting the Rope like that and

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this is to ensure that we are on the

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correct end of the Rope not on something

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wrong and finally I check his knot and

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his harness now obviously while the

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belayer is checking the climber the

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climber should be checking the belayer

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and there is one slightly annoying thing

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at least for me what some climbers do is

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when the climber takes on the rope and

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pulls on it to test if the belay device

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is working but who likes to be pulled

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around so instead of that the belayer

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should do this pull test and the climber

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should observe also if you are a long

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hair owner it's a good idea to take care

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of that because if it gets into belay

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device it's really difficult to

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self-rescue that's another reason for

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using a helmet as a belayer because it can

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keep your hair on the back side and the

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same goes for the climber yo bro and

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finally I highly recommend to wear shoes

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as a belayer last year in Céüse we saw a

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girl with sandals that don't protect the

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front of the toes kicking something

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really hard during the catch of the fall

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and bleeding all over the place and then

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the hike down is like one hour of hike

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and that's a pretty sad way to end your

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climbing trip and another good way to

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ruin your climbing trip is by not having

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the knot at the end of the Rope

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that was fast yeah statistically this is

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what causes the most accidents in

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climbing so double check if you have a

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knot before you start climbing and now

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we are officially ready to climb

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yay okay climbing climb on always fist

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bump as well

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now if the beginning of the route is

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challenging consider spotting your

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climber and as the climber is

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approaching the first clip you can

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adjust the Rope estimation so that as

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soon as he Clips he's already safe to

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climb and not waiting for you to just a

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moment just a moment

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just a moment

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here is another example as the climber

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is reaching the clip I notice that there

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will be too much slack so I take some of

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it out and as soon as he Clips he's

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instantly safe to climb now while the

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climber is low on the route the player

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must avoid standing directly under the

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climber but also if possible do not

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stand directly behind that climber

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because that often positions the Rope

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between the legs of the climber and

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risks damaging private parts the best

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position usually is slightly on the side

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of the climber

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and since a lot of you are terrified of

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faults that are low to the ground I'm

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gonna make a dedicated video on how to

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belay these situations

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so yeah subscribe

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and here is another bad example if the

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climber would fall at this moment his

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butt cheeks would probably hug the Rope

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So to avoid that it would be better if

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the belayer would be standing

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somewhere in this area

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and another thing you should do while

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the climber is low on the route is to

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help to manage the Rope here I kept the

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Rope close to the wall so it's easier

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for the climber to step around it

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and here is me climbing where I will

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need to step around this rope so my

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belayer actively moves the Rope out of my

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way it makes so much easier to get

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around the rope and into the flow

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all right next let's talk about slack

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management and so that we are on the

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same page of vocabulary slack is extra

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rope between me and my climber so in

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this case there is no tension on the

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Rope but there is no slack

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and here I have one hand of slack this

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is how one hand of slack looks slack can

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also happen at the climber's end of the

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Rope especially after he just clipped

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and now he's moving up or between the

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quick draws this happens more often in

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extremely overhanging roots

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so do you want to tell what happened

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here

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where should we start this climate here

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is uh digging a hole

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to uh with the shovel there's a move

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where they cut loose

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and to not short rope your climber

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uh there is a there is a risk that they

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that they will hit the ground

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So they digged in a hole

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okay how much slack should you have when

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you're belaying the answer is enough to

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not limit any of the climbers movements

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or clipping but anything more than that

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is unnecessary now you might see other

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coaches recommending that the Rope which

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leaves the grigri shouldn't dip below

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the belaying device meaning that it

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shouldn't do this instead it should

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leave and go up however take this advice

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with caution because how this Loop looks

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depends on how you hold your belaying

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device it looks like this when I hold it

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here but if it's it's like that it looks

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completely different and also it depends

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on how close you are standing to the

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wall because if I stand close to the

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wall and I try to avoid this Loop and

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then I will end up with something like

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that which is very little slack and it's

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very highly likely that you will short

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rope your climber now before I give you

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my recommendations I have to say that

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how you manage your slack while the climber

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is climbing up can be completely

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different from the situation where the

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climber is falling or about to fall

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because if the climber is falling you

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have many options you can take the slack

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if you think but that's necessary you

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can do nothing or you can proceed with a

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soft catch and I will talk about these

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cases in the next video and in this one

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I will focus on what you do while the

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climber is simply climbing up so with

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disclaimers out of the way you can

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manage the slack by obviously feeding the

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Rope through the billing device and by

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stepping forward so if I step forward I

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introduce slack if I step backwards I

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reduce the amount of Slack also you can

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combine these two so you can feed the

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slack through belaying device while

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stepping forward to give more slack and

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then you can take and step backwards to

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00:11:53,459 --> 00:11:55,800
take the slack quicker in general lead

274
00:11:55,800 --> 00:11:58,200
belaying can be broken down into three

275
00:11:58,200 --> 00:12:00,720
phases first is when the climber is

276
00:12:00,720 --> 00:12:02,760
below the quick draw in this case you

277
00:12:02,760 --> 00:12:04,680
should belay the same as if the

278
00:12:04,680 --> 00:12:06,959
climber would be on the top rope there

279
00:12:06,959 --> 00:12:09,600
is no need for any slack

280
00:12:09,600 --> 00:12:11,820
now when the climber is transitioning

281
00:12:11,820 --> 00:12:14,279
from under the bolt to above the bolt

282
00:12:14,279 --> 00:12:17,700
you will need to start giving Slack and

283
00:12:17,700 --> 00:12:21,380
maintain a good amount of it

284
00:12:21,839 --> 00:12:24,600
here my climber moved closer to the bolt

285
00:12:24,600 --> 00:12:27,360
so I take out a little bit of the slack

286
00:12:27,360 --> 00:12:30,360
and as my climber starts climbing up I

287
00:12:30,360 --> 00:12:32,700
continue giving slack so it's a very

288
00:12:32,700 --> 00:12:34,920
Dynamic process

289
00:12:34,920 --> 00:12:37,079
so the way I like to think about the

290
00:12:37,079 --> 00:12:39,779
good amount of slack is in terms of arms

291
00:12:39,779 --> 00:12:42,540
of slack that I paid out so as my

292
00:12:42,540 --> 00:12:44,399
climber is transitioning from under the

293
00:12:44,399 --> 00:12:47,820
bolt to above the bolt I will want to

294
00:12:47,820 --> 00:12:51,300
give about half of arm of slack and this

295
00:12:51,300 --> 00:12:54,240
is gonna create this nice belly and this

296
00:12:54,240 --> 00:12:56,760
is probably a good amount of slack for

297
00:12:56,760 --> 00:12:59,579
majority of situations in climbing if I

298
00:12:59,579 --> 00:13:02,519
would take that out this is more or less

299
00:13:02,519 --> 00:13:04,920
the amount of slack I had the good

300
00:13:04,920 --> 00:13:07,200
amount of slack also depends on the

301
00:13:07,200 --> 00:13:09,540
speed the climber is climbing if it's

302
00:13:09,540 --> 00:13:11,459
slow you can be more conservative

303
00:13:11,459 --> 00:13:13,740
however if the climber is climbing

304
00:13:13,740 --> 00:13:16,260
really fast and if it's very important

305
00:13:16,260 --> 00:13:18,899
send attempt then you might want to have

306
00:13:18,899 --> 00:13:23,240
more slack according to the situation

307
00:13:23,360 --> 00:13:29,580
[Music]

308
00:13:30,120 --> 00:13:31,459
And in case the climber

309
00:13:31,459 --> 00:13:34,380
is climbing really fast and clipping

310
00:13:34,380 --> 00:13:37,139
really Dynamic you might consider to

311
00:13:37,139 --> 00:13:39,959
give about full arm of slack which would

312
00:13:39,959 --> 00:13:41,880
look something like that

313
00:13:41,880 --> 00:13:44,760
and a good part about having not more

314
00:13:44,760 --> 00:13:47,040
than one arm of slack is that you can

315
00:13:47,040 --> 00:13:50,760
always take it in one motion and this is

316
00:13:50,760 --> 00:13:52,920
the amount of slack ahead

317
00:13:52,920 --> 00:13:55,680
it's a little bit less than a meter of

318
00:13:55,680 --> 00:13:56,700
Slack

319
00:13:56,700 --> 00:14:00,060
so this amount of slack is probably the

320
00:14:00,060 --> 00:14:03,000
absolute maximum you will ever need on

321
00:14:03,000 --> 00:14:06,000
any climbing situation and if you would

322
00:14:06,000 --> 00:14:08,100
have more than that you might risk

323
00:14:08,100 --> 00:14:11,279
unnecessarily big fall and then in case

324
00:14:11,279 --> 00:14:13,440
you need to take it's gonna take you

325
00:14:13,440 --> 00:14:16,820
multiple actions to complete the taking

326
00:14:16,820 --> 00:14:20,100
which is also unnecessary on a contrast

327
00:14:20,100 --> 00:14:23,399
having too little slack is one of the

328
00:14:23,399 --> 00:14:25,920
most common beginner mistakes that often

329
00:14:25,920 --> 00:14:30,060
end up as a short rope or the climber

330
00:14:30,060 --> 00:14:31,740
oh

331
00:14:31,740 --> 00:14:33,839
of course if the climber is low to the

332
00:14:33,839 --> 00:14:36,420
ground and about to fall having no slack

333
00:14:36,420 --> 00:14:39,560
might be the best option

334
00:14:39,560 --> 00:14:41,279
[Scream]

335
00:14:41,279 --> 00:14:44,459
otherwise here is an example why in

336
00:14:44,459 --> 00:14:46,980
majority of situations I recommend about

337
00:14:46,980 --> 00:14:50,339
half of arm of slack my climber decided

338
00:14:50,339 --> 00:14:52,440
to do some Ninja clipping from the

339
00:14:52,440 --> 00:14:55,500
position where no one else Clips so I

340
00:14:55,500 --> 00:14:58,560
was not expecting that luckily I had

341
00:14:58,560 --> 00:15:01,380
about half of our most slack and that

342
00:15:01,380 --> 00:15:05,040
was just enough to not short rope him

343
00:15:05,040 --> 00:15:07,860
now normally you can anticipate when the

344
00:15:07,860 --> 00:15:10,079
climber is about to clip and you will

345
00:15:10,079 --> 00:15:11,684
have more time to give

346
00:15:11,684 --> 00:15:13,290
enough slack for that

347
00:15:14,060 --> 00:15:17,459
however beginner belayers still get in

348
00:15:17,459 --> 00:15:19,680
trouble when the climber needs a lot of

349
00:15:19,680 --> 00:15:22,199
rope for clipping fast and the best

350
00:15:22,199 --> 00:15:24,660
strategy to deal with that is to drop

351
00:15:24,660 --> 00:15:27,480
the full arm of slack and prepare to

352
00:15:27,480 --> 00:15:30,600
give more and then give more as needed

353
00:15:30,600 --> 00:15:33,120
and once the climber Clips you can take

354
00:15:33,120 --> 00:15:36,120
out the extra with this strategy you are

355
00:15:36,120 --> 00:15:38,820
giving at least two and a half arms of

356
00:15:38,820 --> 00:15:42,240
slack to the climber and in 99% of the

357
00:15:42,240 --> 00:15:44,240
cases this should be enough

358
00:15:44,240 --> 00:15:46,560
alternatively if the clipping is really

359
00:15:46,560 --> 00:15:49,680
fast you can also add a step forward

360
00:15:49,680 --> 00:15:52,920
which also adds extra slack now

361
00:15:52,920 --> 00:15:55,620
obviously nobody likes to be short-roped

362
00:15:55,620 --> 00:15:58,800
during the clipping but same goes for

363
00:15:58,800 --> 00:16:01,500
micro short roping when the Rope is

364
00:16:01,500 --> 00:16:03,959
blocked just for the moment these

365
00:16:03,959 --> 00:16:06,420
moments cost energy for the climber and

366
00:16:06,420 --> 00:16:09,360
must be avoided if you're belaying and

367
00:16:09,360 --> 00:16:12,480
short rope happens the best strategy is

368
00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:15,000
to immediately step forward words while

369
00:16:15,000 --> 00:16:17,279
at the same time unlocking the belaying

370
00:16:17,279 --> 00:16:19,800
device the stepping forward helps to

371
00:16:19,800 --> 00:16:21,420
unlock the device

372
00:16:21,420 --> 00:16:24,240
so to recap while the climber is under

373
00:16:24,240 --> 00:16:26,420
the bolt you will be mainly taking

374
00:16:26,450 --> 00:16:29,820
the slack out and once the climber transitions

375
00:16:29,820 --> 00:16:32,160
above the bolt then you will need to

376
00:16:32,160 --> 00:16:34,800
give slack and maintain a good amount

377
00:16:34,800 --> 00:16:37,199
usually between half to full arm of

378
00:16:37,199 --> 00:16:40,680
slack works the best and anything more

379
00:16:40,680 --> 00:16:44,040
than that is very very rarely beneficial

380
00:16:44,040 --> 00:16:47,820
and simply asking for trouble

381
00:16:47,820 --> 00:16:50,600
clipping

382
00:16:51,620 --> 00:16:54,540
and independently of how great of the

383
00:16:54,540 --> 00:16:57,060
belayer you are at some point you will

384
00:16:57,060 --> 00:17:00,540
probably get into situation like this so

385
00:17:00,540 --> 00:17:02,579
first of all you can greatly reduce the

386
00:17:02,579 --> 00:17:04,679
chance of that happening if you manage

387
00:17:04,679 --> 00:17:07,799
your rope well so when I carry my rope I

388
00:17:07,799 --> 00:17:10,319
always always make sure to tie both ends

389
00:17:10,319 --> 00:17:12,900
of my rope to the Rope bag this prevents

390
00:17:12,900 --> 00:17:15,419
the chance of the not forming in a way

391
00:17:15,419 --> 00:17:17,760
that I would not be able to untie it the

392
00:17:17,760 --> 00:17:20,100
only knot that you can get is maybe

393
00:17:20,100 --> 00:17:22,799
something like that but if that happens

394
00:17:22,799 --> 00:17:24,780
you can always untie it although you

395
00:17:24,780 --> 00:17:26,699
cannot get a knot in the Rope you can

396
00:17:26,699 --> 00:17:29,340
still have a tangle and to minimize the

397
00:17:29,340 --> 00:17:31,559
tangles it's good idea to stack your

398
00:17:31,559 --> 00:17:35,179
rope nicely before you climb

399
00:17:41,720 --> 00:17:44,400
and the good part that after the climb

400
00:17:44,400 --> 00:17:46,440
you don't have to stack all the Rope you

401
00:17:46,440 --> 00:17:48,720
just need to restack the part which you

402
00:17:48,720 --> 00:17:50,520
used for the climb so all of that is

403
00:17:50,520 --> 00:17:52,799
good and now I'm just gonna restack what

404
00:17:52,799 --> 00:17:54,900
I already used

405
00:17:54,900 --> 00:17:57,240
and one more thing that you should not

406
00:17:57,240 --> 00:18:00,600
do is take rope like this

407
00:18:00,600 --> 00:18:03,720
and just throw it in you will definitely

408
00:18:03,720 --> 00:18:07,080
cause Tangles instead of that you want

409
00:18:07,080 --> 00:18:09,900
to put the Rope on the side and re-stack

410
00:18:09,900 --> 00:18:13,200
this little bit nicely

411
00:18:13,200 --> 00:18:17,039
that will save you from lots of troubles

412
00:18:17,039 --> 00:18:19,200
and if you're done with the climb

413
00:18:19,200 --> 00:18:22,320
tie your end of the Rope

414
00:18:22,320 --> 00:18:25,340
to the row rope bag

415
00:18:26,460 --> 00:18:28,559
now if your rope is still causing you

416
00:18:28,559 --> 00:18:31,380
problems you can find a moment when the

417
00:18:31,380 --> 00:18:34,020
climber is safe and prepare some of the

418
00:18:34,020 --> 00:18:36,240
Rope of course make sure to hold the

419
00:18:36,240 --> 00:18:39,539
brake side of the Rope while doing so

420
00:18:39,539 --> 00:18:41,220
okay pulling

421
00:18:41,220 --> 00:18:43,620
okay the next problem with beginner

422
00:18:43,620 --> 00:18:45,840
belayers is that they don't know how to

423
00:18:45,840 --> 00:18:49,640
efficiently take the Rope

424
00:18:53,340 --> 00:18:56,000
hard

425
00:18:57,120 --> 00:19:00,360
going up and down up and down

426
00:19:01,560 --> 00:19:03,539
okay if you want to be nice to your

427
00:19:03,539 --> 00:19:06,780
climber and help him to go up easier you

428
00:19:06,780 --> 00:19:09,059
want to come under the first Quick Draw

429
00:19:09,059 --> 00:19:11,580
but keep sitting in the harness so that

430
00:19:11,580 --> 00:19:14,340
all my weight is holding him or pulling

431
00:19:14,340 --> 00:19:18,020
him up now a little trick how to take

432
00:19:18,020 --> 00:19:21,840
efficiently so that I help my climber

433
00:19:21,840 --> 00:19:24,600
the most so I put a little piece of tape

434
00:19:24,600 --> 00:19:27,840
here and if I take efficiently this

435
00:19:27,840 --> 00:19:30,480
piece of tape should not move up because

436
00:19:30,480 --> 00:19:32,580
if it moves up that means that my

437
00:19:32,580 --> 00:19:35,100
climber went down and he will need to

438
00:19:35,100 --> 00:19:38,460
put extra effort in moving up again so

439
00:19:38,460 --> 00:19:41,820
how can I take that this piece of tape

440
00:19:41,820 --> 00:19:44,520
doesn't go up well I want to grab my

441
00:19:44,520 --> 00:19:47,760
rope really hard and do one arm pull up

442
00:19:47,760 --> 00:19:51,419
to lock this marker while taking the

443
00:19:51,419 --> 00:19:53,520
slack through my billing device

444
00:19:53,520 --> 00:19:57,179
however I cannot do one arm pull up

445
00:19:57,179 --> 00:20:00,419
however I have legs that can help me I

446
00:20:00,419 --> 00:20:03,240
can grab as hard as I can pull right

447
00:20:03,240 --> 00:20:05,940
hand up while pulling left hand down and

448
00:20:05,940 --> 00:20:08,460
use my legs to help me so this is how it

449
00:20:08,460 --> 00:20:10,700
looks

450
00:20:12,179 --> 00:20:15,240
see the marker stayed or if you want a

451
00:20:15,240 --> 00:20:18,059
greater effect you can even hop up like

452
00:20:18,059 --> 00:20:21,840
so I literally jumped with my legs while

453
00:20:21,840 --> 00:20:24,480
taking the slack

454
00:20:24,480 --> 00:20:27,179
and keep hanging while my climber is

455
00:20:27,179 --> 00:20:28,380
pulling

456
00:20:28,380 --> 00:20:31,320
so that helps him the most once I reach

457
00:20:31,320 --> 00:20:32,640
the ground again

458
00:20:32,640 --> 00:20:34,140
I can

459
00:20:34,140 --> 00:20:37,500
take again and if there is an object in

460
00:20:37,500 --> 00:20:40,799
front of you that you can step on and do

461
00:20:40,799 --> 00:20:43,679
a little step or hop up it's even better

462
00:20:43,679 --> 00:20:46,260
so if I would jump from this I can take

463
00:20:46,260 --> 00:20:49,380
a lot of slack it's very easy for me

464
00:20:49,380 --> 00:20:54,140
and it's very good for my climber

465
00:20:56,100 --> 00:20:58,380
so this technique provides the most

466
00:20:58,380 --> 00:21:01,500
assistance to the climber however if the

467
00:21:01,500 --> 00:21:03,600
climber is significantly heavier than

468
00:21:03,600 --> 00:21:07,080
the layer it might be hard to execute in

469
00:21:07,080 --> 00:21:09,480
that case I would recommend to time the

470
00:21:09,480 --> 00:21:11,640
moment when the climber is pulling on

471
00:21:11,640 --> 00:21:13,740
the rope with the moment when you're

472
00:21:13,740 --> 00:21:16,440
trying to take out the slack or the

473
00:21:16,440 --> 00:21:19,460
moment you're trying to jump up

474
00:21:19,460 --> 00:21:21,780
alternatively you can use the technique

475
00:21:21,780 --> 00:21:25,020
of walking backwards it's easier for the

476
00:21:25,020 --> 00:21:28,320
belayer but the further you go the less

477
00:21:28,320 --> 00:21:31,200
you help your climber in fact you know

478
00:21:31,200 --> 00:21:33,419
what let's test how much more efficient

479
00:21:33,419 --> 00:21:35,460
it is to take under the Quick Draw

480
00:21:35,460 --> 00:21:38,640
compared to going backwards so I rigged

481
00:21:38,640 --> 00:21:41,220
this system where my rope goes to a

482
00:21:41,220 --> 00:21:43,320
dynamometer so we can measure the force

483
00:21:43,320 --> 00:21:45,960
I'm going to see how heavy Ben is let's

484
00:21:45,960 --> 00:21:48,360
see how heavy Ben is if I'm hanging

485
00:21:48,360 --> 00:21:50,520
directly under

486
00:21:50,520 --> 00:21:52,700
Ben is heavy

487
00:21:52,700 --> 00:21:55,620
0.62 kilo newtons now let's see what

488
00:21:55,620 --> 00:21:58,020
happens if I start going backwards

489
00:21:58,020 --> 00:22:01,340
so if I'm here it's at

490
00:22:01,340 --> 00:22:04,740
0.39 let's see how much I can do it here

491
00:22:04,740 --> 00:22:10,039
oh wow it's 30. let's go far

492
00:22:10,679 --> 00:22:13,620
okay let's try here

493
00:22:13,620 --> 00:22:15,120
come on Ben you can do better than that

494
00:22:15,120 --> 00:22:16,860
how much, 21

495
00:22:16,860 --> 00:22:19,640
21 he says

496
00:22:19,640 --> 00:22:22,559
but I'm like pulling really hard if I'm

497
00:22:22,559 --> 00:22:25,620
just like casual this is a casual like

498
00:22:25,620 --> 00:22:29,100
kind of pulling casually how much is it

499
00:22:29,100 --> 00:22:32,880
18 actually when you're taking if I jump

500
00:22:32,880 --> 00:22:35,820
up then momentarily I deliver a huge

501
00:22:35,820 --> 00:22:38,539
Force down

502
00:22:39,179 --> 00:22:41,940
that peaked at one point

503
00:22:41,940 --> 00:22:46,020
two three kilonewtons if I would time my

504
00:22:46,020 --> 00:22:48,360
jump together with the climber he would

505
00:22:48,360 --> 00:22:51,539
get propelled up yeah let's see what's

506
00:22:51,539 --> 00:22:54,000
the pick if I'm just pull hard here okay

507
00:22:54,000 --> 00:22:55,500
go

508
00:22:57,059 --> 00:23:00,299
0.70 let's see what's my

509
00:23:00,299 --> 00:23:04,100
Peak if I try to do it here

510
00:23:07,760 --> 00:23:09,380
0.62

511
00:23:09,380 --> 00:23:12,720
0.62 so conclusion if you want to be

512
00:23:12,720 --> 00:23:15,000
nice for your climber be more under the

513
00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:16,200
quick draw when you're pulling your

514
00:23:16,200 --> 00:23:18,740
climber up

515
00:23:18,799 --> 00:23:21,360
let's see it wasn't much the question

516
00:23:21,360 --> 00:23:24,960
was from the audience does it change if

517
00:23:24,960 --> 00:23:29,360
I have my feet on the ground now it's 63-64

518
00:23:29,360 --> 00:23:33,059
now I have gently touching the

519
00:23:33,059 --> 00:23:36,960
ground it dropped to 60. now if I'm kind

520
00:23:36,960 --> 00:23:40,140
of like standing it's 50 if I'm kind of

521
00:23:40,140 --> 00:23:41,580
like standing

522
00:23:41,580 --> 00:23:43,559
I'm kind of hanging kind of standing

523
00:23:43,559 --> 00:23:45,740
it's 45.

524
00:23:45,740 --> 00:23:49,320
so only like purely hanging it goes to

525
00:23:49,320 --> 00:23:51,120
full force

526
00:23:51,120 --> 00:23:54,600
but this is still quite effective while

527
00:23:54,600 --> 00:23:58,020
this becomes already way less effective

528
00:23:58,020 --> 00:24:00,840
you you get tired less while belaying

529
00:24:00,840 --> 00:24:04,260
and your climber gets stronger so this

530
00:24:04,260 --> 00:24:07,020
was an introduction to belaying which is

531
00:24:07,020 --> 00:24:09,179
still missing the most important part

532
00:24:09,179 --> 00:24:12,960
what to do when the climber is falling

533
00:24:12,960 --> 00:24:15,419
man I cannot give you a soft catch this way

534
00:24:15,419 --> 00:24:18,600
and to answer that I measured hundreds

535
00:24:18,600 --> 00:24:21,059
of Falls and made a mega study on soft

536
00:24:21,059 --> 00:24:23,880
catches and all of that is coming in the

537
00:24:23,880 --> 00:24:26,460
next video and for now huge thank you

538
00:24:26,460 --> 00:24:29,280
for Mammoth and for my patrons for

539
00:24:29,280 --> 00:24:32,039
supporting all of this video serious and

540
00:24:32,039 --> 00:24:34,500
if you are benefiting from it a lot and

541
00:24:34,500 --> 00:24:36,600
you want some Karma points I've heard

542
00:24:36,600 --> 00:24:38,580
some rumors that there are Karma points

543
00:24:38,580 --> 00:24:40,080
in that website

544
00:24:40,080 --> 00:24:42,840
hope you enjoyed this one enjoy climbing

545
00:24:42,840 --> 00:24:46,580
and see you in the next one