WEBVTT 00:00:00.359 --> 00:00:03.419 all right welcome back to belay Master 00:00:03.419 --> 00:00:05.700 Class previously in this series I 00:00:05.700 --> 00:00:08.040 covered every single piece of gear that 00:00:08.040 --> 00:00:10.260 you will encounter in sport climbing 00:00:10.260 --> 00:00:13.799 some Ninja ways to tie knots and top 00:00:13.799 --> 00:00:16.980 rope delaying now we're ready for lead 00:00:16.980 --> 00:00:19.520 bling 00:00:19.560 --> 00:00:22.140 but before I start I have to save it 00:00:22.140 --> 00:00:24.560 just because you watch a YouTube video 00:00:24.560 --> 00:00:29.119 doesn't mean that now you know 00:00:30.539 --> 00:00:33.800 I know Kung Fu 00:00:34.020 --> 00:00:35.200 show me 00:00:35.200 --> 00:00:38.399 [Applause] 00:00:38.790 --> 00:00:46.140 [Music] 00:00:46.140 --> 00:00:48.600 yeah so use this video only as 00:00:48.600 --> 00:00:50.820 supplemental information to whatever 00:00:50.820 --> 00:00:52.500 practical training you're doing 00:00:52.500 --> 00:00:55.739 hopefully with somebody experienced and 00:00:55.739 --> 00:00:58.260 this video is not about how to use your 00:00:58.260 --> 00:01:00.719 playing device I covered that very 00:01:00.719 --> 00:01:02.940 deeply in this video so if you're 00:01:02.940 --> 00:01:04.979 somebody new to climbing I highly 00:01:04.979 --> 00:01:07.080 recommend to watch these two videos 00:01:07.080 --> 00:01:10.260 first also I have to mention that there 00:01:10.260 --> 00:01:12.479 is still debates in the climbing 00:01:12.479 --> 00:01:15.240 community of what is the correct way of 00:01:15.240 --> 00:01:17.280 using the bling device and different 00:01:17.280 --> 00:01:19.439 countries have different recommendations 00:01:19.439 --> 00:01:22.259 one subject for disagreement is 00:01:22.259 --> 00:01:24.720 so-called tunneling method where you're 00:01:24.720 --> 00:01:27.840 sliding your Brig hand like this when 00:01:27.840 --> 00:01:30.980 you're taking Slack 00:01:30.980 --> 00:01:39.450 [Music] 00:01:39.619 --> 00:01:42.299 and I covered this topic in this video 00:01:42.299 --> 00:01:45.659 but my personal take is that this 00:01:45.659 --> 00:01:48.780 sliding is not an issue if you're using 00:01:48.780 --> 00:01:51.540 assisted delay devices and then there is 00:01:51.540 --> 00:01:54.360 another disagreement on the proper use 00:01:54.360 --> 00:01:57.420 of grigri official petzl recommendation 00:01:57.420 --> 00:01:59.700 is when you're giving slack you can do 00:01:59.700 --> 00:02:02.220 this but then if you need to give more 00:02:02.220 --> 00:02:05.240 slack fast you can press on grigri scam 00:02:05.240 --> 00:02:07.799 while you have the rope with three 00:02:07.799 --> 00:02:10.319 fingers on the rope and continue giving 00:02:10.319 --> 00:02:13.319 slack like this however after that you 00:02:13.319 --> 00:02:15.420 should bring your brake hand away from 00:02:15.420 --> 00:02:17.640 the grigri however if You observe 00:02:17.640 --> 00:02:19.920 experienced climbers you will notice 00:02:19.920 --> 00:02:22.379 that most of them will not bring the 00:02:22.379 --> 00:02:24.959 brake hand down and will simply keep the 00:02:24.959 --> 00:02:27.480 hand on the grigri all the time and 00:02:27.480 --> 00:02:30.060 there is benefits to that first you can 00:02:30.060 --> 00:02:32.220 give more slack than this way while your 00:02:32.220 --> 00:02:34.500 left hand is pulling up the right hand 00:02:34.500 --> 00:02:37.319 can pull down and now you just added 00:02:37.319 --> 00:02:40.020 extra slack second by having your Brig 00:02:40.020 --> 00:02:43.440 hand here you can take the most amount 00:02:43.440 --> 00:02:45.560 of slack because if your hand is 00:02:45.560 --> 00:02:48.959 somewhere Midway now you are very 00:02:48.959 --> 00:02:51.060 limited of how much slack you can take 00:02:51.060 --> 00:02:53.459 you will need to bring the hand back if 00:02:53.459 --> 00:02:55.860 you want to take a lot of slack so this 00:02:55.860 --> 00:02:57.780 position naturally gives you the most 00:02:57.780 --> 00:03:00.720 control in any situation and allows you 00:03:00.720 --> 00:03:03.840 to micromanage the slack the drawback of 00:03:03.840 --> 00:03:07.260 this is that in some rare cases if you 00:03:07.260 --> 00:03:09.840 don't have a good grip on the hand the 00:03:09.840 --> 00:03:12.659 grigri might slip so you have to be 00:03:12.659 --> 00:03:15.420 aware of this especially if you're using 00:03:15.420 --> 00:03:17.940 super skinny ropes but despite of that 00:03:17.940 --> 00:03:20.700 risk you will see me keeping my hand on 00:03:20.700 --> 00:03:22.920 the grigri most of the time because this 00:03:22.920 --> 00:03:25.140 is my preference and you choose the 00:03:25.140 --> 00:03:27.959 method which works for you and I go to 00:03:27.959 --> 00:03:28.980 belay 00:03:28.980 --> 00:03:31.560 all right so we want to lead this route 00:03:31.560 --> 00:03:34.680 and may as a player I will be spending a 00:03:34.680 --> 00:03:37.260 lot of time looking up and since I'm 00:03:37.260 --> 00:03:39.480 looking up I don't have enough time to 00:03:39.480 --> 00:03:41.760 look down what's under my feet so it's a 00:03:41.760 --> 00:03:44.340 good idea to prepare the space so I will 00:03:44.340 --> 00:03:46.560 not trip over something so if there are 00:03:46.560 --> 00:03:49.140 some things you might consider moving 00:03:49.140 --> 00:03:50.879 them I don't know what this thing is 00:03:50.879 --> 00:03:53.819 doing here next I look into the root and 00:03:53.819 --> 00:03:56.340 see where it goes in this case I see a 00:03:56.340 --> 00:03:58.620 lot of chalk on the left side so that's 00:03:58.620 --> 00:04:00.780 where the climber is going to climb and 00:04:00.780 --> 00:04:03.480 so I want to avoid standing in his fault 00:04:03.480 --> 00:04:06.000 zone so I will be standing a little bit 00:04:06.000 --> 00:04:08.640 more to the right so I place my row back 00:04:08.640 --> 00:04:11.400 even more to the right but in front of 00:04:11.400 --> 00:04:13.860 me in this case if there is any Tangles 00:04:13.860 --> 00:04:15.840 with the Rope I can see them and deal 00:04:15.840 --> 00:04:18.120 with them easily if I would place my 00:04:18.120 --> 00:04:20.160 rope back behind me it's more 00:04:20.160 --> 00:04:22.860 complicated to see issues with the Rope 00:04:22.860 --> 00:04:25.680 okay then you get a climber and before I 00:04:25.680 --> 00:04:27.600 take him on belay I like to look into 00:04:27.600 --> 00:04:30.120 the first bolt and estimate how much 00:04:30.120 --> 00:04:32.699 rope he will need to clip it so in this 00:04:32.699 --> 00:04:36.000 case it's more or less like that 00:04:36.000 --> 00:04:38.820 I always go a little bit on the bigger 00:04:38.820 --> 00:04:41.820 side because safer as always 00:04:41.820 --> 00:04:45.000 safer and before he goes on the route we 00:04:45.000 --> 00:04:47.340 obviously need to do a buddy check but 00:04:47.340 --> 00:04:49.440 as I already mentioned in the top rope 00:04:49.440 --> 00:04:51.360 video I don't even like to call it a 00:04:51.360 --> 00:04:53.040 buddy check because if I would just 00:04:53.040 --> 00:04:55.199 Chuck my body and my buddy would just 00:04:55.199 --> 00:04:57.780 check me there is chances of failure in 00:04:57.780 --> 00:04:59.580 particular we are not even sure if we 00:04:59.580 --> 00:05:01.740 are on correct ends of the Rope so 00:05:01.740 --> 00:05:03.660 instead of that this is what you do 00:05:03.660 --> 00:05:05.580 first I check my harness to make sure 00:05:05.580 --> 00:05:07.620 that my buckles are secure then the 00:05:07.620 --> 00:05:10.320 Carabiner it needs to be locked then the 00:05:10.320 --> 00:05:12.840 laying device needs to be inserted in a 00:05:12.840 --> 00:05:15.060 correct orientation and then I start 00:05:15.060 --> 00:05:17.220 tracing my rope you might see people 00:05:17.220 --> 00:05:19.740 even collecting the Rope like that and 00:05:19.740 --> 00:05:22.020 this is to ensure that we are on the 00:05:22.020 --> 00:05:24.180 correct end of the Rope not on something 00:05:24.180 --> 00:05:27.780 wrong and finally I check his knot and 00:05:27.780 --> 00:05:30.060 his harness now obviously while the 00:05:30.060 --> 00:05:32.100 belayer is checking the climber the 00:05:32.100 --> 00:05:34.080 climber should be checking the belayer 00:05:34.080 --> 00:05:36.300 and there is one slightly annoying thing 00:05:36.300 --> 00:05:39.300 at least for me what some climbers do is 00:05:39.300 --> 00:05:41.280 when the climber takes on the rope and 00:05:41.280 --> 00:05:44.280 pulls on it to test if the belay device 00:05:44.280 --> 00:05:46.860 is working but who likes to be pulled 00:05:46.860 --> 00:05:49.680 around so instead of that the belayer 00:05:49.680 --> 00:05:52.259 should do this pull test and the climber 00:05:52.259 --> 00:05:54.900 should observe also if you are a long 00:05:54.900 --> 00:05:57.300 hair owner it's a good idea to take care 00:05:57.300 --> 00:05:59.460 of that because if it gets into belay 00:05:59.460 --> 00:06:01.560 device it's really difficult to 00:06:01.560 --> 00:06:03.840 self-rescue that's another reason for 00:06:03.840 --> 00:06:06.240 using a helmet as a Blair because it can 00:06:06.240 --> 00:06:08.580 keep your hair on the back side and the 00:06:08.580 --> 00:06:11.639 same goes for the climber yo bro and 00:06:11.639 --> 00:06:14.100 finally I highly recommend to wear shoes 00:06:14.100 --> 00:06:16.860 as a Blair last year in sales we saw a 00:06:16.860 --> 00:06:19.440 girl with sandals that don't protect the 00:06:19.440 --> 00:06:21.840 front of the toes kicking something 00:06:21.840 --> 00:06:24.419 really hard during the catch of the fall 00:06:24.419 --> 00:06:27.419 and bleeding all over the place and then 00:06:27.419 --> 00:06:29.940 the hike down is like one hour of hike 00:06:29.940 --> 00:06:32.340 and that's a pretty sad way to end your 00:06:32.340 --> 00:06:34.680 climbing trip and another good way to 00:06:34.680 --> 00:06:37.199 ruin your climbing trip is by not having 00:06:37.199 --> 00:06:40.620 the knot at the end of the Rope 00:06:40.620 --> 00:06:43.680 that was fast yeah statistically this is 00:06:43.680 --> 00:06:46.080 what causes the most accidents in 00:06:46.080 --> 00:06:48.300 climbing so double check if you have a 00:06:48.300 --> 00:06:51.240 knot before you start climbing and now 00:06:51.240 --> 00:06:54.139 we are officially ready to climb 00:06:54.139 --> 00:06:57.960 yay okay climbing climb on always fist 00:06:57.960 --> 00:07:00.380 bump as well 00:07:00.380 --> 00:07:02.940 now if the beginning of the root is 00:07:02.940 --> 00:07:05.100 challenging consider spotting your 00:07:05.100 --> 00:07:07.259 climber and as the climber is 00:07:07.259 --> 00:07:09.360 approaching the first clip you can 00:07:09.360 --> 00:07:12.479 adjust the Rope estimation so that as 00:07:12.479 --> 00:07:15.000 soon as he Clips he's already safe to 00:07:15.000 --> 00:07:18.120 climb and not waiting for you to just a 00:07:18.120 --> 00:07:20.520 moment just a moment 00:07:20.520 --> 00:07:23.479 just a moment 00:07:24.240 --> 00:07:26.880 here is another example as the climber 00:07:26.880 --> 00:07:28.979 is reaching the clip I notice that there 00:07:28.979 --> 00:07:31.979 will be too much slack so I take some of 00:07:31.979 --> 00:07:35.039 it out and as soon as he Clips he's 00:07:35.039 --> 00:07:37.620 instantly safe to climb now while the 00:07:37.620 --> 00:07:40.080 climber is low on the route the player 00:07:40.080 --> 00:07:42.900 must avoid standing directly under the 00:07:42.900 --> 00:07:45.660 climber but also if possible do not 00:07:45.660 --> 00:07:48.300 stand directly behind that climber 00:07:48.300 --> 00:07:50.699 because that often positions the Rope 00:07:50.699 --> 00:07:53.539 between the legs of the climber and 00:07:53.539 --> 00:07:57.539 risks damaging private parts the best 00:07:57.539 --> 00:08:00.120 position usually is slightly on the side 00:08:00.120 --> 00:08:02.840 of the climber 00:08:03.240 --> 00:08:05.639 and since a lot of you are terrified of 00:08:05.639 --> 00:08:07.620 faults that are low to the ground I'm 00:08:07.620 --> 00:08:10.080 gonna make a dedicated video on how to 00:08:10.080 --> 00:08:12.120 belay these situations 00:08:12.120 --> 00:08:15.180 so yeah subscribe 00:08:15.180 --> 00:08:17.759 and here is another bad example if the 00:08:17.759 --> 00:08:19.860 climber would fall at this moment his 00:08:19.860 --> 00:08:21.960 butt cheeks would probably hug the Rope 00:08:21.960 --> 00:08:24.660 So to avoid that it would be better if 00:08:24.660 --> 00:08:26.460 the player would be standing somewhere 00:08:26.460 --> 00:08:27.960 in this area 00:08:27.960 --> 00:08:29.879 and another thing you should do while 00:08:29.879 --> 00:08:32.099 the climber is low on the route is to 00:08:32.099 --> 00:08:34.620 help to manage the Rope here I kept the 00:08:34.620 --> 00:08:36.779 Rope close to the wall so it's easier 00:08:36.779 --> 00:08:40.620 for the climber to step around it 00:08:40.620 --> 00:08:43.260 and here is me climbing where I will 00:08:43.260 --> 00:08:45.420 need to step around this rope so my 00:08:45.420 --> 00:08:48.120 player actively moves the Rope out of my 00:08:48.120 --> 00:08:50.459 way it makes so much easier to get 00:08:50.459 --> 00:08:54.680 around the rope and into the flow 00:08:57.380 --> 00:09:00.660 all right next let's talk about slack 00:09:00.660 --> 00:09:02.880 management and so that we are on the 00:09:02.880 --> 00:09:06.000 same page of vocabulary slack is extra 00:09:06.000 --> 00:09:09.839 rope between me and my climber so in 00:09:09.839 --> 00:09:12.060 this case there is no tension on the 00:09:12.060 --> 00:09:14.399 Rope but there is no slack 00:09:14.399 --> 00:09:19.019 and here I have one hand of slack this 00:09:19.019 --> 00:09:22.019 is how one hand of slack looks slack can 00:09:22.019 --> 00:09:24.420 also happen at the climber's end of the 00:09:24.420 --> 00:09:26.760 Rope especially after he just clipped 00:09:26.760 --> 00:09:29.220 and now he's moving up or between the 00:09:29.220 --> 00:09:31.860 quick draws this happens more often in 00:09:31.860 --> 00:09:35.000 extremely overhanging roots 00:09:35.000 --> 00:09:37.680 so do you want to tell what happened 00:09:37.680 --> 00:09:40.040 here 00:09:40.320 --> 00:09:43.200 where should we start this climate here 00:09:43.200 --> 00:09:45.000 is uh digging a hole 00:09:45.000 --> 00:09:47.820 to uh with the shovel there's a move 00:09:47.820 --> 00:09:49.380 where they cut loose 00:09:49.380 --> 00:09:52.380 and to not short rope your climber 00:09:52.380 --> 00:09:55.440 uh there is a there is a risk that they 00:09:55.440 --> 00:09:58.459 that they will hit the ground 00:10:00.660 --> 00:10:04.380 okay how much slack should you have when 00:10:04.380 --> 00:10:06.899 you're building the answer is enough to 00:10:06.899 --> 00:10:09.060 not limit any of the climbers movements 00:10:09.060 --> 00:10:12.480 or clipping but anything more than that 00:10:12.480 --> 00:10:15.120 is unnecessary now you might see other 00:10:15.120 --> 00:10:17.220 coaches recommending that the Rope which 00:10:17.220 --> 00:10:20.339 leaves the grigri shouldn't dip below 00:10:20.339 --> 00:10:22.980 the bullying device meaning that it 00:10:22.980 --> 00:10:25.200 shouldn't do this instead it should 00:10:25.200 --> 00:10:28.440 leave and go up however take this advice 00:10:28.440 --> 00:10:31.140 with caution because how this Loop looks 00:10:31.140 --> 00:10:33.660 depends on how you hold your billing 00:10:33.660 --> 00:10:35.760 device it looks like this when I hold it 00:10:35.760 --> 00:10:38.220 here but if it's it's like that it looks 00:10:38.220 --> 00:10:40.680 completely different and also it depends 00:10:40.680 --> 00:10:42.600 on how close you are standing to the 00:10:42.600 --> 00:10:44.519 wall because if I stand close to the 00:10:44.519 --> 00:10:47.220 wall and I try to avoid this Loop and 00:10:47.220 --> 00:10:48.720 then I will end up with something like 00:10:48.720 --> 00:10:51.600 that which is very little slack and it's 00:10:51.600 --> 00:10:53.700 very highly likely that you will short 00:10:53.700 --> 00:10:55.860 rope your climber now before I give you 00:10:55.860 --> 00:10:58.680 my recommendations I have to save it how 00:10:58.680 --> 00:11:01.320 you manage your slack while the climber 00:11:01.320 --> 00:11:03.420 is climbing up can be completely 00:11:03.420 --> 00:11:05.399 different from the situation where the 00:11:05.399 --> 00:11:07.500 climber is falling or about to fall 00:11:07.500 --> 00:11:09.600 because if the climber is falling you 00:11:09.600 --> 00:11:12.180 have many options you can take the slack 00:11:12.180 --> 00:11:14.279 if you think but that's necessary you 00:11:14.279 --> 00:11:16.920 can do nothing or you can proceed with a 00:11:16.920 --> 00:11:19.620 soft catch and I will talk about these 00:11:19.620 --> 00:11:22.019 cases in the next video and in this one 00:11:22.019 --> 00:11:24.360 I will focus on what you do while the 00:11:24.360 --> 00:11:26.820 climber is simply climbing up so with 00:11:26.820 --> 00:11:29.100 disclaimers out of the way you can 00:11:29.100 --> 00:11:31.380 manage the slag by obviously feeding the 00:11:31.380 --> 00:11:33.839 Rope through the billing device and by 00:11:33.839 --> 00:11:36.420 stepping forward so if I step forward I 00:11:36.420 --> 00:11:39.660 introduce slack if I step backwards I 00:11:39.660 --> 00:11:42.959 reduce the amount of Slack also you can 00:11:42.959 --> 00:11:45.120 combine these two so you can feed the 00:11:45.120 --> 00:11:46.680 slack through billing device while 00:11:46.680 --> 00:11:49.680 stepping forward to give more slack and 00:11:49.680 --> 00:11:53.459 then you can take and step backwards to 00:11:53.459 --> 00:11:55.800 take the slack quicker in general lead 00:11:55.800 --> 00:11:58.200 billing can be broken down into three 00:11:58.200 --> 00:12:00.720 phases first is when the climber is 00:12:00.720 --> 00:12:02.760 below the quick draw in this case you 00:12:02.760 --> 00:12:04.680 should be late the same as if the 00:12:04.680 --> 00:12:06.959 climber would be on the top rope there 00:12:06.959 --> 00:12:09.600 is no need for any slack 00:12:09.600 --> 00:12:11.820 now when the climber is transitioning 00:12:11.820 --> 00:12:14.279 from under the bolt to above the bolt 00:12:14.279 --> 00:12:17.700 you will need to start giving Slack and 00:12:17.700 --> 00:12:21.380 maintain a good amount of it 00:12:21.839 --> 00:12:24.600 here my climber moved closer to the bolt 00:12:24.600 --> 00:12:27.360 so I take out a little bit of the slack 00:12:27.360 --> 00:12:30.360 and as my climber starts climbing up I 00:12:30.360 --> 00:12:32.700 continue giving slack so it's a very 00:12:32.700 --> 00:12:34.920 Dynamic process 00:12:34.920 --> 00:12:37.079 so the way I like to think about the 00:12:37.079 --> 00:12:39.779 good amount of slack is in terms of arms 00:12:39.779 --> 00:12:42.540 of slack that I paid out so as my 00:12:42.540 --> 00:12:44.399 climber is transitioning from under the 00:12:44.399 --> 00:12:47.820 bolt to above the bolt I will want to 00:12:47.820 --> 00:12:51.300 give about half of arm of slack and this 00:12:51.300 --> 00:12:54.240 is gonna create this nice belly and this 00:12:54.240 --> 00:12:56.760 is probably a good amount of slack for 00:12:56.760 --> 00:12:59.579 majority of situations in climbing if I 00:12:59.579 --> 00:13:02.519 would take that out this is more or less 00:13:02.519 --> 00:13:04.920 the amount of slack I had the good 00:13:04.920 --> 00:13:07.200 amount of slack also depends on the 00:13:07.200 --> 00:13:09.540 speed the climber is climbing if it's 00:13:09.540 --> 00:13:11.459 slow you can be more conservative 00:13:11.459 --> 00:13:13.740 however if the climber is climbing 00:13:13.740 --> 00:13:16.260 really fast and if it's very important 00:13:16.260 --> 00:13:18.899 send attempt then you might want to have 00:13:18.899 --> 00:13:23.240 more slack according to the situation 00:13:26.399 --> 00:13:27.910 thank you 00:13:27.910 --> 00:13:30.120 [Music] 00:13:30.120 --> 00:13:31.459 foreign 00:13:31.459 --> 00:13:34.380 ER is climbing really fast and clipping 00:13:34.380 --> 00:13:37.139 really Dynamic you might consider to 00:13:37.139 --> 00:13:39.959 give about full arm of slack which would 00:13:39.959 --> 00:13:41.880 look something like that 00:13:41.880 --> 00:13:44.760 and a good part about having not more 00:13:44.760 --> 00:13:47.040 than one arm of slack is that you can 00:13:47.040 --> 00:13:50.760 always take it in one motion and this is 00:13:50.760 --> 00:13:52.920 the amount of slack ahead 00:13:52.920 --> 00:13:55.680 it's a little bit less than a meter of 00:13:55.680 --> 00:13:56.700 Slack 00:13:56.700 --> 00:14:00.060 so this amount of slack is probably the 00:14:00.060 --> 00:14:03.000 absolute maximum you will ever need on 00:14:03.000 --> 00:14:06.000 any climbing situation and if you would 00:14:06.000 --> 00:14:08.100 have more than that you might risk 00:14:08.100 --> 00:14:11.279 unnecessarily big fall and then in case 00:14:11.279 --> 00:14:13.440 you need to take it's gonna take you 00:14:13.440 --> 00:14:16.820 multiple actions to complete the taking 00:14:16.820 --> 00:14:20.100 which is also unnecessary on a contrast 00:14:20.100 --> 00:14:23.399 having too little slack is one of the 00:14:23.399 --> 00:14:25.920 most common beginner mistakes that often 00:14:25.920 --> 00:14:30.060 end up as a short rope or the climber 00:14:30.060 --> 00:14:31.740 oh 00:14:31.740 --> 00:14:33.839 of course if the climber is low to the 00:14:33.839 --> 00:14:36.420 ground and about to fall having no slack 00:14:36.420 --> 00:14:39.560 might be the best option 00:14:39.560 --> 00:14:41.279 [Music] 00:14:41.279 --> 00:14:44.459 otherwise here is an example why in 00:14:44.459 --> 00:14:46.980 majority of situations I recommend about 00:14:46.980 --> 00:14:50.339 half of arm of slack my climber decided 00:14:50.339 --> 00:14:52.440 to do some Ninja clipping from the 00:14:52.440 --> 00:14:55.500 position where no one else Clips so I 00:14:55.500 --> 00:14:58.560 was not expecting that luckily I had 00:14:58.560 --> 00:15:01.380 about half of our most slack and that 00:15:01.380 --> 00:15:05.040 was just enough to not short rope him 00:15:05.040 --> 00:15:07.860 now normally you can anticipate when the 00:15:07.860 --> 00:15:10.079 climber is about to clip and you will 00:15:10.079 --> 00:15:12.720 have more time to give enough slack for 00:15:12.720 --> 00:15:14.060 that 00:15:14.060 --> 00:15:17.459 however beginner belayers still get in 00:15:17.459 --> 00:15:19.680 trouble when the climber needs a lot of 00:15:19.680 --> 00:15:22.199 rope for clipping fast and the best 00:15:22.199 --> 00:15:24.660 strategy to deal with that is to drop 00:15:24.660 --> 00:15:27.480 the full arm of slack and prepare to 00:15:27.480 --> 00:15:30.600 give more and then give more as needed 00:15:30.600 --> 00:15:33.120 and once the climber Clips you can take 00:15:33.120 --> 00:15:36.120 out the axis with this strategy you are 00:15:36.120 --> 00:15:38.820 giving at least two and a half arms of 00:15:38.820 --> 00:15:42.240 slack to the climber and in 99 of the 00:15:42.240 --> 00:15:44.240 cases this should be enough 00:15:44.240 --> 00:15:46.560 alternatively if the clipping is really 00:15:46.560 --> 00:15:49.680 fast you can also add a step forward 00:15:49.680 --> 00:15:52.920 which also adds extra slack now 00:15:52.920 --> 00:15:55.620 obviously nobody likes to be short-roped 00:15:55.620 --> 00:15:58.800 during the clipping but same goes for 00:15:58.800 --> 00:16:01.500 micro short roping when the Rope is 00:16:01.500 --> 00:16:03.959 blocked just for the moment these 00:16:03.959 --> 00:16:06.420 moments cost energy for the climber and 00:16:06.420 --> 00:16:09.360 must be avoided if you're belaying and 00:16:09.360 --> 00:16:12.480 short rope happens the best strategy is 00:16:12.480 --> 00:16:15.000 to immediately step forward words while 00:16:15.000 --> 00:16:17.279 at the same time unlocking the playing 00:16:17.279 --> 00:16:19.800 device this stepping forward helps to 00:16:19.800 --> 00:16:21.420 unlock the device 00:16:21.420 --> 00:16:24.240 so to recap while the climber is under 00:16:24.240 --> 00:16:26.940 the bolt you will be mainly taking this 00:16:26.940 --> 00:16:29.820 lag out and once the climber transitions 00:16:29.820 --> 00:16:32.160 above the bolt then you will need to 00:16:32.160 --> 00:16:34.800 give slack and maintain a good amount 00:16:34.800 --> 00:16:37.199 usually between half to full arm of 00:16:37.199 --> 00:16:40.680 slack works the best and anything more 00:16:40.680 --> 00:16:44.040 than that is very very rarely beneficial 00:16:44.040 --> 00:16:47.820 and simply asking for trouble 00:16:47.820 --> 00:16:50.600 clipping 00:16:51.620 --> 00:16:54.540 and independently of how great of the 00:16:54.540 --> 00:16:57.060 player you are at some point you will 00:16:57.060 --> 00:17:00.540 probably get into situation like this so 00:17:00.540 --> 00:17:02.579 first of all you can greatly reduce the 00:17:02.579 --> 00:17:04.679 chance of that happening if you manage 00:17:04.679 --> 00:17:07.799 your rope well so when I carry my rope I 00:17:07.799 --> 00:17:10.319 always always make sure to tie both ends 00:17:10.319 --> 00:17:12.900 of my rope to the Rope bag this prevents 00:17:12.900 --> 00:17:15.419 the chance of the not forming in a way 00:17:15.419 --> 00:17:17.760 that I would not be able to untie it the 00:17:17.760 --> 00:17:20.100 only knot that you can get is maybe 00:17:20.100 --> 00:17:22.799 something like that but if that happens 00:17:22.799 --> 00:17:24.780 you can always untie it although you 00:17:24.780 --> 00:17:26.699 cannot get a knot in the Rope you can 00:17:26.699 --> 00:17:29.340 still have a tangle and to minimize the 00:17:29.340 --> 00:17:31.559 tangles it's good idea to stack your 00:17:31.559 --> 00:17:35.179 rope nicely before you climb 00:17:41.720 --> 00:17:44.400 and the good part that after the climb 00:17:44.400 --> 00:17:46.440 you don't have to stack all the Rope you 00:17:46.440 --> 00:17:48.720 just need to restack the part which you 00:17:48.720 --> 00:17:50.520 used for the climb so all of that is 00:17:50.520 --> 00:17:52.799 good and now I'm just gonna restack what 00:17:52.799 --> 00:17:54.900 I already used 00:17:54.900 --> 00:17:57.240 and one more thing that you should not 00:17:57.240 --> 00:18:00.600 do is take rope like this 00:18:00.600 --> 00:18:03.720 and just throw it in you will definitely 00:18:03.720 --> 00:18:07.080 cause Tangles instead of that you want 00:18:07.080 --> 00:18:09.900 to put the Rope on the side and re-stack 00:18:09.900 --> 00:18:13.200 this little bit nicely 00:18:13.200 --> 00:18:17.039 that will save you from lots of troubles 00:18:17.039 --> 00:18:19.200 and if you're done with the climb 00:18:19.200 --> 00:18:22.320 tie your end of the Rope 00:18:22.320 --> 00:18:25.340 to the row back 00:18:26.460 --> 00:18:28.559 now if your rope is still causing you 00:18:28.559 --> 00:18:31.380 problems you can find a moment when the 00:18:31.380 --> 00:18:34.020 climber is safe and prepare some of the 00:18:34.020 --> 00:18:36.240 Rope of course make sure to hold the 00:18:36.240 --> 00:18:39.539 brake side of the Rope while doing so 00:18:39.539 --> 00:18:41.220 okay pulling 00:18:41.220 --> 00:18:43.620 okay the next problem with beginner B 00:18:43.620 --> 00:18:45.840 layers is that they don't know how to 00:18:45.840 --> 00:18:49.640 efficiently take the Rope 00:18:53.340 --> 00:18:56.000 hard 00:18:57.120 --> 00:19:00.360 going up and down up and down 00:19:00.360 --> 00:19:03.539 okay okay if you want to be nice to your 00:19:03.539 --> 00:19:06.780 climber and help him to go up easier you 00:19:06.780 --> 00:19:09.059 want to come under the first Quick Draw 00:19:09.059 --> 00:19:11.580 but keep sitting in the harness so that 00:19:11.580 --> 00:19:14.340 all my weight is holding him or pulling 00:19:14.340 --> 00:19:18.020 him up now a little trick how to take 00:19:18.020 --> 00:19:21.840 efficiently so that I help my climber 00:19:21.840 --> 00:19:24.600 the most so I put a little piece of tape 00:19:24.600 --> 00:19:27.840 here and if I take efficiently this 00:19:27.840 --> 00:19:30.480 piece of tape should not move up because 00:19:30.480 --> 00:19:32.580 if it moves up that means that my 00:19:32.580 --> 00:19:35.100 climber went down and he will need to 00:19:35.100 --> 00:19:38.460 put extra effort in moving up again so 00:19:38.460 --> 00:19:41.820 how can I take that this piece of tape 00:19:41.820 --> 00:19:44.520 doesn't go up well I want to grab my 00:19:44.520 --> 00:19:47.760 rope really hard and do one arm pull up 00:19:47.760 --> 00:19:51.419 to lock this marker while taking the 00:19:51.419 --> 00:19:53.520 slack through my billing device 00:19:53.520 --> 00:19:57.179 however I cannot do one arm pull up 00:19:57.179 --> 00:20:00.419 however I have legs that can help me I 00:20:00.419 --> 00:20:03.240 can grab as hard as I can pull right 00:20:03.240 --> 00:20:05.940 hand up while pulling left hand down and 00:20:05.940 --> 00:20:08.460 use my legs to help me so this is how it 00:20:08.460 --> 00:20:10.700 looks 00:20:12.179 --> 00:20:15.240 see the marker stayed or if you want a 00:20:15.240 --> 00:20:18.059 greater effect you can even hop up like 00:20:18.059 --> 00:20:21.840 so I literally jumped with my legs while 00:20:21.840 --> 00:20:24.480 taking the slack 00:20:24.480 --> 00:20:27.179 and keep hanging while my climber is 00:20:27.179 --> 00:20:28.380 pulling 00:20:28.380 --> 00:20:31.320 so that helps him the most once I reach 00:20:31.320 --> 00:20:32.640 the ground again 00:20:32.640 --> 00:20:34.140 I can 00:20:34.140 --> 00:20:37.500 take again and if there is an object in 00:20:37.500 --> 00:20:40.799 front of you that you can step on and do 00:20:40.799 --> 00:20:43.679 a little step or hop up it's even better 00:20:43.679 --> 00:20:46.260 so if I would jump from this I can take 00:20:46.260 --> 00:20:49.380 a lot of slack it's very easy for me 00:20:49.380 --> 00:20:54.140 and it's very good for my climber 00:20:56.100 --> 00:20:58.380 so this technique provides the most 00:20:58.380 --> 00:21:01.500 assistance to the climber however if the 00:21:01.500 --> 00:21:03.600 climber is significantly heavier than 00:21:03.600 --> 00:21:07.080 the layer it might be hard to execute in 00:21:07.080 --> 00:21:09.480 that case I would recommend to time the 00:21:09.480 --> 00:21:11.640 moment when the climber is pulling on 00:21:11.640 --> 00:21:13.740 the rope with the moment when you're 00:21:13.740 --> 00:21:16.440 trying to take out the slack or the 00:21:16.440 --> 00:21:19.460 moment you're trying to jump up 00:21:19.460 --> 00:21:21.780 alternatively you can use the technique 00:21:21.780 --> 00:21:25.020 of walking backwards it's easier for the 00:21:25.020 --> 00:21:28.320 player but the further you go the less 00:21:28.320 --> 00:21:31.200 you help your climber in fact you know 00:21:31.200 --> 00:21:33.419 what let's test how much more efficient 00:21:33.419 --> 00:21:35.460 it is to take under the Quick Draw 00:21:35.460 --> 00:21:38.640 compared to going backwards so I rigged 00:21:38.640 --> 00:21:41.220 this system where my rope goes to a 00:21:41.220 --> 00:21:43.320 dynamometer so we can measure the force 00:21:43.320 --> 00:21:45.960 I'm going to see how heavy Ben is let's 00:21:45.960 --> 00:21:48.360 see how heavy Ben is if I'm hanging 00:21:48.360 --> 00:21:50.520 directly under 00:21:50.520 --> 00:21:52.700 bends heavy 00:21:52.700 --> 00:21:55.620 0.62 kilo newtons now let's see what 00:21:55.620 --> 00:21:58.020 happens if I start going backwards 00:21:58.020 --> 00:22:01.340 so if I'm here it's at 00:22:01.340 --> 00:22:04.740 0.39 let's see how much I can do it here 00:22:04.740 --> 00:22:10.039 oh wow it's 30. let's go far 00:22:10.679 --> 00:22:13.620 okay let's try here 00:22:13.620 --> 00:22:15.120 come on Ben you can do better than that 00:22:15.120 --> 00:22:16.860 how much 20 00:22:16.860 --> 00:22:19.640 20 21 he says 00:22:19.640 --> 00:22:22.559 but I'm like pulling really hard if I'm 00:22:22.559 --> 00:22:25.620 just like casual this is a casual like 00:22:25.620 --> 00:22:29.100 kind of pulling casually how much is it 00:22:29.100 --> 00:22:32.880 18 actually when you're taking if I jump 00:22:32.880 --> 00:22:35.820 up then momentarily I deliver a huge 00:22:35.820 --> 00:22:38.539 Force down 00:22:39.179 --> 00:22:41.940 that peaked at one point 00:22:41.940 --> 00:22:46.020 two three kilonewtons if I would time my 00:22:46.020 --> 00:22:48.360 jump together with the climber he would 00:22:48.360 --> 00:22:51.539 get propelled up yeah let's see what's 00:22:51.539 --> 00:22:54.000 the pick if I'm just pull hard here okay 00:22:54.000 --> 00:22:55.500 go 00:22:55.500 --> 00:22:57.059 [Music] 00:22:57.059 --> 00:23:00.299 no point seventy let's see what's my 00:23:00.299 --> 00:23:04.100 Peak if I try to do it here 00:23:07.760 --> 00:23:09.380 0.62 00:23:09.380 --> 00:23:12.720 0.62 so conclusion if you want to be 00:23:12.720 --> 00:23:15.000 nice for your climber be more under the 00:23:15.000 --> 00:23:16.200 quick draw when you're pulling your 00:23:16.200 --> 00:23:18.740 climber up 00:23:18.799 --> 00:23:21.360 let's see it wasn't much the question 00:23:21.360 --> 00:23:24.960 was from the audience does it change if 00:23:24.960 --> 00:23:29.360 I have my feet on the ground now it's 60 00:23:29.360 --> 00:23:33.059 364. now I have gently touching the 00:23:33.059 --> 00:23:36.960 ground it dropped to 60. now if I'm kind 00:23:36.960 --> 00:23:40.140 of like standing it's 50 if I'm kind of 00:23:40.140 --> 00:23:41.580 like standing 00:23:41.580 --> 00:23:43.559 I'm kind of hanging kind of standing 00:23:43.559 --> 00:23:45.740 it's 45. 00:23:45.740 --> 00:23:49.320 so only like purely hanging it goes to 00:23:49.320 --> 00:23:51.120 full force 00:23:51.120 --> 00:23:54.600 but this is still quite effective while 00:23:54.600 --> 00:23:58.020 this becomes already way less effective 00:23:58.020 --> 00:24:00.840 you you get tired less while belaying 00:24:00.840 --> 00:24:04.260 and your climber gets stronger so this 00:24:04.260 --> 00:24:07.020 was an introduction to bling which is 00:24:07.020 --> 00:24:09.179 still missing the most important part 00:24:09.179 --> 00:24:12.960 what to do when the climber is falling 00:24:12.960 --> 00:24:15.419 man I cannot give you some cash this way 00:24:15.419 --> 00:24:18.600 and to answer that I measured hundreds 00:24:18.600 --> 00:24:21.059 of Falls and made a mega study on soft 00:24:21.059 --> 00:24:23.880 catches and all of that is coming in the 00:24:23.880 --> 00:24:26.460 next video and for now huge thank you 00:24:26.460 --> 00:24:29.280 for Mammoth and for my patrons for 00:24:29.280 --> 00:24:32.039 supporting all of this video serious and 00:24:32.039 --> 00:24:34.500 if you are benefiting from it a lot and 00:24:34.500 --> 00:24:36.600 you want some Karma points I've heard 00:24:36.600 --> 00:24:38.580 some rumors that there are Karma points 00:24:38.580 --> 00:24:40.080 in that website 00:24:40.080 --> 00:24:42.840 hope you enjoyed this one enjoy climbing 00:24:42.840 --> 00:24:46.580 and see you in the next one