WEBVTT

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so what happens if I accidentally drop a

00:00:03.439 --> 00:00:06.799
quick draw

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Rock so there is this theory that if I

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get

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unlucky a micro crack might form inside

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the Carabiner that would be invisible to

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outside

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inspection and with repeat at

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loading this micro crack could grow and

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eventually

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however there has been many debates

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whether this micr fracture theory is

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correct or not so to settle the matter I

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visited three different companies for

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this video I got access to a very

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Advanced testing equipment even looked

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inside the carabiners and had a

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conversation with metallics engineer

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from mamut that's the lowest one we had

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so far so maybe it will get interesting

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maybe it will get interesting he said

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and the results

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kind of surprised us so enjoy so step

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number one we need to make carabiners

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fall I was considering to go to some

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building but this way we can control the

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height and I get to play with my

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impulsive purchase so a bit of 3D

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modeling and electronics and we got this

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oppa totally legal tum I wonder how it's

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going to it's going to be good 3 2

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one the sound step one of this

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experiment is to clean the lab it has to

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be hard surface you know keyboard

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Warriors would complain less or

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differently oh maybe I should go a bit

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genter and that's 40 m holy [ __ ] it's

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far up I would recommend everybody to go

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a bit away okay ready three two one

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go and that was disappointing I was

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expecting that the quick dra will fall

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like a dark and we'll have a nice smack

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but instead it was tumbling like a leaf

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more like a parachute not a dart so the

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old genius me thought that maybe the

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wind from the propellers pushes on the

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sling slightly and then the Quick Draw

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starts so change of plans no slings

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slings don't

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work 50 m 50 m that's crazy high 3 2

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1

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oo that was close and here is the first

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thing I learned most small objects are

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not aerodynamically stable so they will

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not fall like a rock or a darkart wood

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here is me dropping a quick drop it

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immediately flips to the

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side another attempt is to hang it off

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long string and see if that

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helps it's kind of

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funny it actually has a lot of

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lift

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[Music]

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okay yeah it did have a bit of Chip here

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that I don't know how much that would be

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a problem so at this point it was clear

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that we needed more weight but it will

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not be very consistent no it won't I

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give up gave up on consistency on this

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Experiment three two one holy

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moly okay now it was um big bang wow you

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want to see something funny how did that

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happen all of them were connected to

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this Loop now after the fall this

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Carabiner was here it managed to unhook

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from this link and hook to this one and

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become like that that's crazy it's like

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some magician trick okay so we dropped

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from 100 m

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height and it does not look satisfyingly

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bad so maybe

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we should just uh why are you guys going

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[Music]

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away now it looks significantly

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worse woo that's nice oo

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[Music]

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ah oh [ __ ] one is a little bit bent no

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you can't resell

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it actually the bent one still works

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fine you want this leave me a comment

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and you have a chance to win a brand new

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Carabiner actually never climbed on it

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just one day use so we have a set of

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carabiners that were dropped from 80 M

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on a concrete floor then we have a set

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of carabiners that we abused quite a lot

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and then we have a set that I went uh

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bit crazy with now for part two I am in

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a very unusual Place hi I'm andus and we

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are at lava 7 we are company

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manufacturing shock absorber and

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suspension testing diagnosis and service

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equipment so nothing related to climbing

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we have people related with climbing in

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the company I myself also do some

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bouldering okay Vlad will say that I'm

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not doing anything but sometimes he's

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visiting the gym now to test the fury

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that with repeated loading the micro

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crack could grow inside the Carabiner I

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needed to find a way how to do thousands

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of cycles of realistic loading

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unfortunately most tensile testing

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machines pull their things very slowly

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and then they release very slowly and

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that's not what happens in real life

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however luckily for me these guys had a

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different

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machine wait what what yeah it can kill

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people easily who he he or the

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the operator yeah this is our latest

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machine latest greatest inside we have

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uh two of these linear Motors this is a

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permanent magnet synchronous motor which

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means that the moving part is the coils

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not the magnets and we have the forcer

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which is the moving part and it has the

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coils inside and then you have a static

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magnetic field from the magnets and a

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controllable magnetic field from the

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coil and those kind of push against each

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other and that trans into motion and

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translated to human language this

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machine can move incredibly fast with

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super high Precision for example we can

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record track data from real rally track

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and later play it back on this machine

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so now this thing is kind of mimicking

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entire track

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yes something scary like 6 m/ second or

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something so something scary something

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scary you really like these things yep

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two cycles you know high compression low

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rebound should I move away from the

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machine what's the worst that can happen

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is this imagine a bullet yeah imagine a

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bullet so this can shoot out so like you

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need ah so straight into me basically

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yeah well we can well it should I

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understood I understood

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even the floor is vibrating a little bit

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I can find you a certain frequency where

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this thing is just jumping around and

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then you'll feel everything off so

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that's how you are getting entertained

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basically at work yes and no but you can

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use that as a Midi player you know if

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you just play the right uh the right

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notes what was that 100 cycles that was

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100 Cycles just one beep what is this

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red thing on the shock absorber

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expansion you have oil here and some oil

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here it's also leaking but when the

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Piston Rod is going inside here you can

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see how the Piston here is moving okay

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when I'm moving here out gas which is

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here is compressing piston

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up I thought that once you compress it

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will want to push it back against your

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compression but it wasn't not really and

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many people don't understand actually

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how shock absorber is working they think

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that we are compressing something here

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or something like that no we are just

00:08:59.079 --> 00:09:01.320
moving oils between the chambers that's

00:09:01.320 --> 00:09:03.200
it but then how does it come back you

00:09:03.200 --> 00:09:05.880
have a spring every shock absorber you

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have a spring here and it pushes the rod

00:09:08.760 --> 00:09:12.040
out okay so basically this just slows

00:09:12.040 --> 00:09:14.240
down the spring this yeah this slows

00:09:14.240 --> 00:09:17.240
down the spring B face ah here we go we

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learned something so this is our

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plan now in the past we did record the

00:09:24.040 --> 00:09:27.000
forces of the hardest climbing Falls

00:09:27.000 --> 00:09:29.880
which peaked to about 4 and 1/2 k to the

00:09:29.880 --> 00:09:32.800
Carabiner we scaled that up a little bit

00:09:32.800 --> 00:09:35.519
removed unnecessary high frequency data

00:09:35.519 --> 00:09:37.440
and this is the load curve that we

00:09:37.440 --> 00:09:40.040
wanted to mimic for at least 5,000

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Cycles let's try to replicate the data

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that you sent me from an actual fall why

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it's crazy how much it's

00:09:48.880 --> 00:09:52.040
flexing um yes you can actually see the

00:09:52.040 --> 00:09:55.320
gate rubbing against that Notch which is

00:09:55.320 --> 00:09:57.480
quite interesting normally when you when

00:09:57.480 --> 00:09:59.040
you climb and you take a fall you don't

00:09:59.040 --> 00:10:00.800
think of uh something like that

00:10:00.800 --> 00:10:02.680
happening okay so now we're going to

00:10:02.680 --> 00:10:05.560
take the carabiners that we abused a lot

00:10:05.560 --> 00:10:08.200
this one is even bent I'm actually

00:10:08.200 --> 00:10:10.399
curious if it's going to straighten from

00:10:10.399 --> 00:10:12.920
these loads or no what's your guess it

00:10:12.920 --> 00:10:16.240
might well let's fix

00:10:16.560 --> 00:10:20.200
it 5,000 Cycles

00:10:20.200 --> 00:10:23.760
done it's still bent is it yeah yeah

00:10:23.760 --> 00:10:26.120
it's still bent now before we break test

00:10:26.120 --> 00:10:28.320
these carabiners I wanted to visit one

00:10:28.320 --> 00:10:30.600
more interesting place

00:10:30.600 --> 00:10:34.399
oh okay today I'm in another place which

00:10:34.399 --> 00:10:36.720
is very interesting and we have a lot of

00:10:36.720 --> 00:10:39.040
stuff here part of their business is

00:10:39.040 --> 00:10:41.880
industrial high quality 3D printing both

00:10:41.880 --> 00:10:44.800
in Plastics and in metal which is really

00:10:44.800 --> 00:10:46.880
impressive to see and this is like

00:10:46.880 --> 00:10:50.320
welding 3D welding it's high accurate 3D

00:10:50.320 --> 00:10:52.360
welding yeah with laser so you weld

00:10:52.360 --> 00:10:55.200
humanoids we can this all parts are 3D

00:10:55.200 --> 00:10:56.959
printing so we have skull which is our

00:10:56.959 --> 00:10:58.880
3D printing of course as anatomical

00:10:58.880 --> 00:11:01.240
model is this like the real size of the

00:11:01.240 --> 00:11:03.600
skull it looks kind of small yeah it's

00:11:03.600 --> 00:11:05.560
real size so we have cranial implant

00:11:05.560 --> 00:11:08.120
orbital floor implant facial implant

00:11:08.120 --> 00:11:10.720
here and the big temperament B joint

00:11:10.720 --> 00:11:13.839
implant Jesus this is so complicated who

00:11:13.839 --> 00:11:17.040
can design these implants we we have

00:11:17.040 --> 00:11:19.760
special software this is a 3D mouse that

00:11:19.760 --> 00:11:20.880
I can

00:11:20.880 --> 00:11:25.399
feel the thing you can feel yes okay

00:11:25.399 --> 00:11:28.160
while nerd in me was really entertained

00:11:28.160 --> 00:11:30.639
the real reason I came to Smart Factory

00:11:30.639 --> 00:11:33.839
was this machine so many of you worried

00:11:33.839 --> 00:11:36.360
that there might be a micro crack inside

00:11:36.360 --> 00:11:39.720
of the Carabiner that we cannot see so

00:11:39.720 --> 00:11:41.760
now we're going to try to see yes

00:11:41.760 --> 00:11:43.959
computerized tomography we can scan

00:11:43.959 --> 00:11:46.760
whatever parts we want it may be a

00:11:46.760 --> 00:11:49.120
plastic parts it may be a metal part we

00:11:49.120 --> 00:11:51.480
can observe what is inside that they

00:11:51.480 --> 00:11:54.279
have cracks voids or something like that

00:11:54.279 --> 00:11:56.440
so I was thinking maybe to compare the

00:11:56.440 --> 00:11:58.600
most abused one and the brand new one

00:11:58.600 --> 00:12:00.600
and see if there there is any difference

00:12:00.600 --> 00:12:03.600
inside mhhm if there is we continue if

00:12:03.600 --> 00:12:06.399
there isn't then Case Closed okay we

00:12:06.399 --> 00:12:08.560
will

00:12:09.000 --> 00:12:13.440
see it will turn 360° in half an hour

00:12:13.440 --> 00:12:15.920
1,81 photo these images will be

00:12:15.920 --> 00:12:19.480
reconstructed and we will get 3D Volume

00:12:19.480 --> 00:12:22.320
so this is our Carabiner and now you can

00:12:22.320 --> 00:12:24.880
see layer by layer of it as you can see

00:12:24.880 --> 00:12:29.440
you can go slice by slice slice is 0.03

00:12:29.440 --> 00:12:32.040
mm so 30 microns if there would be a

00:12:32.040 --> 00:12:34.639
crack you could definitely see something

00:12:34.639 --> 00:12:37.240
inside of it yeah I just ran through

00:12:37.240 --> 00:12:39.279
through whole part but I have notic him

00:12:39.279 --> 00:12:43.360
so it's a uniformly filled inside yeah

00:12:43.360 --> 00:12:46.680
good news that uh we cannot see any

00:12:46.680 --> 00:12:49.680
imperfections inside the Carabiner so we

00:12:49.680 --> 00:12:51.880
scanned the most abused one and then

00:12:51.880 --> 00:12:53.760
we're going to compare it to the brand

00:12:53.760 --> 00:12:58.880
new one more results bam here bam we can

00:12:58.880 --> 00:13:02.040
see that the damage part is uh bent yeah

00:13:02.040 --> 00:13:04.399
it is bent yeah so what is this this is

00:13:04.399 --> 00:13:07.079
like a difference yeah this is deviation

00:13:07.079 --> 00:13:09.560
oh the gate is also very bent in the

00:13:09.560 --> 00:13:11.440
middle it's bent where the hit was

00:13:11.440 --> 00:13:13.959
actually in this spot yeah and nose is

00:13:13.959 --> 00:13:17.320
also bent also if this will not show any

00:13:17.320 --> 00:13:19.079
difference in the final breaking

00:13:19.079 --> 00:13:21.000
strength

00:13:21.000 --> 00:13:24.120
then now for the last part I wanted my

00:13:24.120 --> 00:13:26.880
samples to be tested exactly as it's

00:13:26.880 --> 00:13:28.880
defined in the standard and since I was

00:13:28.880 --> 00:13:30.760
passing ing by Switzerland I couldn't

00:13:30.760 --> 00:13:32.800
miss an opportunity to visit my friends

00:13:32.800 --> 00:13:35.800
at mamut and meet their metallics expert

00:13:35.800 --> 00:13:38.720
I brought some gifts for you as always I

00:13:38.720 --> 00:13:40.839
have all kinds of different samples this

00:13:40.839 --> 00:13:43.519
one is my favorite the question would

00:13:43.519 --> 00:13:44.720
you whip on

00:13:44.720 --> 00:13:47.920
this seeing the bent here I would not

00:13:47.920 --> 00:13:50.160
it's a little bit bent okay you would

00:13:50.160 --> 00:13:53.160
you wouldn't whip on this no no this is

00:13:53.160 --> 00:13:54.160
not

00:13:54.160 --> 00:13:58.040
bent no this one looks okay but you can

00:13:58.040 --> 00:14:02.120
see it I yeah it fail from very high or

00:14:02.120 --> 00:14:05.360
something or quite a few

00:14:05.360 --> 00:14:07.759
times and the spring the spring of the

00:14:07.759 --> 00:14:09.880
gate also feels quite loose I know you

00:14:09.880 --> 00:14:11.759
did something special to it it's not

00:14:11.759 --> 00:14:15.399
like just normal use so I brought a lot

00:14:15.399 --> 00:14:18.040
of samples some were brand new as a

00:14:18.040 --> 00:14:20.120
control group then a group that we

00:14:20.120 --> 00:14:23.160
dropped from 100 m then one group that

00:14:23.160 --> 00:14:25.680
we had a lot of fun with and the final

00:14:25.680 --> 00:14:29.839
group where we went really really crazy

00:14:29.839 --> 00:14:32.279
let's see if mammut Carabiner which is

00:14:32.279 --> 00:14:35.959
rated for 21 kons is going to withstand

00:14:35.959 --> 00:14:40.279
21 kons if it's brand new it will 100%

00:14:40.279 --> 00:14:42.800
100% now there's going to be a game of

00:14:42.800 --> 00:14:46.600
not blinking when it explodes

00:14:46.959 --> 00:14:53.360
yeah Jesus Christ that was 22 K wow okay

00:14:53.360 --> 00:14:57.079
now it's a new Carabiner or Carabiner

00:14:57.079 --> 00:14:59.320
Carabiner Carabiner which we load loed

00:14:59.320 --> 00:15:01.880
for 1,000 Cycles do you think that

00:15:01.880 --> 00:15:04.399
affects the strength like this constant

00:15:04.399 --> 00:15:06.040
deformation do you think that does

00:15:06.040 --> 00:15:07.399
something to the carabin or it's

00:15:07.399 --> 00:15:09.839
designed to to flex we don't design it

00:15:09.839 --> 00:15:12.399
specifically to deform in a specific way

00:15:12.399 --> 00:15:15.240
or in a specific amount but on those

00:15:15.240 --> 00:15:17.880
loads like below 10 Kon there is just

00:15:17.880 --> 00:15:21.199
such margin that it's staying in the uh

00:15:21.199 --> 00:15:23.959
elastic deformation of the aluminum so

00:15:23.959 --> 00:15:25.560
we're safe as long as you don't go to

00:15:25.560 --> 00:15:27.880
the plastic deformation now this is

00:15:27.880 --> 00:15:29.600
actually very interesting

00:15:29.600 --> 00:15:32.160
every metal be it a carabiner or a

00:15:32.160 --> 00:15:35.240
spring can flex and this is called

00:15:35.240 --> 00:15:38.519
elastic elongation however if we apply

00:15:38.519 --> 00:15:39.959
more

00:15:39.959 --> 00:15:42.360
Force we will

00:15:42.360 --> 00:15:45.560
permanently deform it and this is

00:15:45.560 --> 00:15:48.680
already called plastic deformation and I

00:15:48.680 --> 00:15:51.040
got curious to find out where is this

00:15:51.040 --> 00:15:54.360
plastic limit for the carabiners so stay

00:15:54.360 --> 00:15:56.880
till the end of this video because there

00:15:56.880 --> 00:15:59.839
we will go a little bit near

00:15:59.839 --> 00:16:02.079
all right so we broke all the new

00:16:02.079 --> 00:16:04.519
carabiners and it was clear that such

00:16:04.519 --> 00:16:06.680
cyclic loading does nothing to the

00:16:06.680 --> 00:16:09.519
carabiners at least not to the brand new

00:16:09.519 --> 00:16:12.920
ones all of them broke above their

00:16:12.920 --> 00:16:16.079
rate so next a set that we dropped from

00:16:16.079 --> 00:16:19.759
100 m these mostly had just light

00:16:19.759 --> 00:16:22.160
scratches looked similar to what you

00:16:22.160 --> 00:16:25.399
might see on older carabiners only one

00:16:25.399 --> 00:16:28.959
had a little missing piece and this has

00:16:28.959 --> 00:16:32.079
a bit of

00:16:33.519 --> 00:16:37.959
yeah 23.2 K yeah

00:16:37.959 --> 00:16:41.920
22.3 23 23 so basically dropping from

00:16:41.920 --> 00:16:44.959
100 m makes the Carabiner slightly

00:16:44.959 --> 00:16:48.199
stronger good no we cannot say that yet

00:16:48.199 --> 00:16:51.440
but so we broke all the samples and

00:16:51.440 --> 00:16:54.360
again all of them broke above their

00:16:54.360 --> 00:16:57.759
rating and ironically some samples were

00:16:57.759 --> 00:17:00.720
even stronger compared to brand new for

00:17:00.720 --> 00:17:02.360
now we only have two breaking points

00:17:02.360 --> 00:17:06.319
here or there if one had something like

00:17:06.319 --> 00:17:09.480
this or be deeper exactly here or

00:17:09.480 --> 00:17:12.640
somehow there that would have more

00:17:12.640 --> 00:17:15.319
impact on ah so you say that there are

00:17:15.319 --> 00:17:17.880
parts of Carabiner that are more

00:17:17.880 --> 00:17:19.919
susceptible to breaking and if you have

00:17:19.919 --> 00:17:22.520
a Nick in those parts it's more

00:17:22.520 --> 00:17:26.600
problematic yes we break either here or

00:17:26.600 --> 00:17:29.919
here yeah so if I would have have a Nick

00:17:29.919 --> 00:17:32.280
in that area or close to the nose that

00:17:32.280 --> 00:17:34.960
would be more problematic yes so now we

00:17:34.960 --> 00:17:37.760
are looking into situation like this

00:17:37.760 --> 00:17:40.000
would you whip on this I would be scared

00:17:40.000 --> 00:17:42.160
to climb on this one this one has much

00:17:42.160 --> 00:17:45.360
deeper cuts and here as well a lot of

00:17:45.360 --> 00:17:47.880
deep Cuts yeah now this group of

00:17:47.880 --> 00:17:51.840
carabiners looked really bad personally

00:17:51.840 --> 00:17:53.799
I wouldn't be comfortable using

00:17:53.799 --> 00:17:58.640
carabiners that look like this

00:17:59.039 --> 00:18:02.919
very abused Carabiner yes

00:18:02.919 --> 00:18:05.120
without extra

00:18:05.120 --> 00:18:08.000
load no

00:18:08.000 --> 00:18:11.679
way okay that's the lowest one we had so

00:18:11.679 --> 00:18:14.840
far so maybe it will get interesting

00:18:14.840 --> 00:18:17.840
maybe it will get interesting and it

00:18:17.840 --> 00:18:20.200
didn't even though they were breaking at

00:18:20.200 --> 00:18:22.679
slightly lower forces it was still above

00:18:22.679 --> 00:18:25.640
their rating except one sample that was

00:18:25.640 --> 00:18:26.799
very

00:18:26.799 --> 00:18:29.360
close not very interesting

00:18:29.360 --> 00:18:32.000
but actually very nice to know that even

00:18:32.000 --> 00:18:35.000
after that abuse and that many cycles

00:18:35.000 --> 00:18:39.840
it's still fine and um Moment of Truth

00:18:39.840 --> 00:18:44.520
the last sample it's bent it's heavily

00:18:44.520 --> 00:18:48.360
scratched and nicked missing parts of it

00:18:48.360 --> 00:18:52.480
the gate is also looking

00:18:53.120 --> 00:18:57.240
sideways loaded 5,000

00:18:57.240 --> 00:19:01.159
times he said he would not whip on this

00:19:01.159 --> 00:19:04.200
yeah this is the most abused

00:19:04.200 --> 00:19:06.440
Carabiner let's see that's very

00:19:06.440 --> 00:19:09.919
interesting now let's

00:19:10.840 --> 00:19:16.400
go 3 kons 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 okay super

00:19:16.400 --> 00:19:17.760
good enough

00:19:17.760 --> 00:19:19.919
16

00:19:19.919 --> 00:19:24.480
17 18 19

00:19:25.120 --> 00:19:29.799
20 no way 21

00:19:31.720 --> 00:19:34.799
22 look look it keeps

00:19:34.799 --> 00:19:36.880
going it was the

00:19:36.880 --> 00:19:40.080
best 22.5 yeah it was one of the best

00:19:40.080 --> 00:19:43.320
there's only one that's bad how is this

00:19:43.320 --> 00:19:46.440
possible so we broke a lot of carabiners

00:19:46.440 --> 00:19:49.880
and I think we kind of reduced the sales

00:19:49.880 --> 00:19:50.679
of

00:19:50.679 --> 00:19:54.159
carabiners moving on from now on overall

00:19:54.159 --> 00:19:58.320
we can say that this abuse you did was

00:19:58.320 --> 00:20:02.799
not not really enough to really cause a

00:20:02.799 --> 00:20:05.400
a safety problem in terms of breaking

00:20:05.400 --> 00:20:07.520
strength but then you really have to

00:20:07.520 --> 00:20:09.200
look into other problems on your

00:20:09.200 --> 00:20:11.679
Carabiner if you look at this it's a bit

00:20:11.679 --> 00:20:14.120
sharp everywhere that could definitely

00:20:14.120 --> 00:20:17.760
damage the Rope so if you do this you

00:20:17.760 --> 00:20:20.960
don't need to panic simply inspect it

00:20:20.960 --> 00:20:23.480
and if your Carabiner doesn't look like

00:20:23.480 --> 00:20:25.600
minded you should have enough safety

00:20:25.600 --> 00:20:28.159
margin okay maybe a little note from the

00:20:28.159 --> 00:20:30.760
future editor me what we showed is that

00:20:30.760 --> 00:20:32.880
properly loaded carabiners are

00:20:32.880 --> 00:20:35.440
incredibly reliable however there are

00:20:35.440 --> 00:20:38.000
still many ways how they can fail for

00:20:38.000 --> 00:20:40.400
example here is Daniel Woods snapping a

00:20:40.400 --> 00:20:42.559
quick

00:20:42.559 --> 00:20:45.200
drop so if you're new to climbing I

00:20:45.200 --> 00:20:47.520
highly recommend to watch my blay Master

00:20:47.520 --> 00:20:49.880
Class video on carabiners so you would

00:20:49.880 --> 00:20:52.799
learn how they can fail so they would

00:20:52.799 --> 00:20:55.679
not fail on you now before we go to the

00:20:55.679 --> 00:20:57.720
bonus part of this video a couple of

00:20:57.720 --> 00:20:59.880
thank yous first of of all thank you to

00:20:59.880 --> 00:21:01.440
mammut they've been sponsoring my

00:21:01.440 --> 00:21:03.159
channel for a while now which I

00:21:03.159 --> 00:21:05.640
appreciate a lot but more importantly

00:21:05.640 --> 00:21:07.760
it's always super interesting to visit

00:21:07.760 --> 00:21:10.240
them to learn from them and then share

00:21:10.240 --> 00:21:13.159
with you yay thank you and also my

00:21:13.159 --> 00:21:16.520
visits to laba 7 and smart Factory was

00:21:16.520 --> 00:21:18.600
super cool wow that's crazy that's

00:21:18.600 --> 00:21:21.039
actually looks really bad I I wonder if

00:21:21.039 --> 00:21:23.080
my vertebras are going to look like that

00:21:23.080 --> 00:21:25.200
after so much editing so if you want to

00:21:25.200 --> 00:21:27.520
learn more what we do links are in the

00:21:27.520 --> 00:21:30.480
description and now bonus time now we

00:21:30.480 --> 00:21:32.520
mentioned that such flexing for the

00:21:32.520 --> 00:21:35.240
Carabiner was not an issue because it

00:21:35.240 --> 00:21:37.559
was staying in the elastic deformation

00:21:37.559 --> 00:21:40.200
limits however I was still curious to

00:21:40.200 --> 00:21:43.039
find out what is the force that you can

00:21:43.039 --> 00:21:45.080
pull on the Carabiner before you

00:21:45.080 --> 00:21:47.840
permanently deform it so the plan was to

00:21:47.840 --> 00:21:50.520
pull the carabiners to different forces

00:21:50.520 --> 00:21:53.360
and observe the elongation so now we

00:21:53.360 --> 00:21:56.960
pulled to 9 kons and then we relaxed

00:21:56.960 --> 00:21:59.600
down and it came back to exactly what it

00:21:59.600 --> 00:22:01.320
was before yeah so now we're going to

00:22:01.320 --> 00:22:05.000
try to pull to 10 and see to 11 to 12

00:22:05.000 --> 00:22:08.200
until we find when it starts deforming

00:22:08.200 --> 00:22:10.000
yeah so we incrementally loaded the

00:22:10.000 --> 00:22:12.840
carabiners to higher and higher loads

00:22:12.840 --> 00:22:15.880
and here are the observations at around

00:22:15.880 --> 00:22:18.440
half of the carabiner's rating we can

00:22:18.440 --> 00:22:21.279
already see a very slight permanent

00:22:21.279 --> 00:22:24.240
deformation but it's only about 50

00:22:24.240 --> 00:22:26.480
microm which is not something you're

00:22:26.480 --> 00:22:28.799
going to notice however that changes is

00:22:28.799 --> 00:22:31.880
quick with higher forces at 70% of the

00:22:31.880 --> 00:22:34.440
rating the formation is already about

00:22:34.440 --> 00:22:37.240
half a millimeter which is significant

00:22:37.240 --> 00:22:39.840
and pulling to even higher forces

00:22:39.840 --> 00:22:43.720
Carabiner becomes very plastic mm

00:22:43.720 --> 00:22:48.240
already it's elongated for 9 something

00:22:48.240 --> 00:22:53.480
mm almost for a full CM before

00:22:54.240 --> 00:22:56.600
breaking maybe like

00:22:56.600 --> 00:23:00.520
this yeah this one is like full CM

00:23:00.520 --> 00:23:03.480
longer this type of Carabiner as long as

00:23:03.480 --> 00:23:07.039
you stay below 10 Kon it would always go

00:23:07.039 --> 00:23:09.080
back to the same shape you would have no

00:23:09.080 --> 00:23:11.600
problem so of course I got curious what

00:23:11.600 --> 00:23:15.039
happens if you repeatedly load above 10

00:23:15.039 --> 00:23:17.360
K yeah now we're going to pull on the

00:23:17.360 --> 00:23:20.760
Carabiner up to 15 K go back close to

00:23:20.760 --> 00:23:25.440
zero 15 again back to zero for yeah a

00:23:25.440 --> 00:23:27.960
while so after the first pull the

00:23:27.960 --> 00:23:31.000
carabiner had almost half a MM of

00:23:31.000 --> 00:23:33.440
permanent deformation and then repeated

00:23:33.440 --> 00:23:36.840
pulls we're slightly growing that but

00:23:36.840 --> 00:23:40.039
less and less on every extra pull

00:23:40.039 --> 00:23:42.440
however this is the behavior on the

00:23:42.440 --> 00:23:45.000
relaxed state of the Carabiner when it's

00:23:45.000 --> 00:23:47.600
not under load anymore if we look at the

00:23:47.600 --> 00:23:49.720
top of the chart where we can see

00:23:49.720 --> 00:23:52.559
elongation under load it is much more

00:23:52.559 --> 00:23:54.760
interesting for the first Cycles

00:23:54.760 --> 00:23:58.640
elongation keeps growing as well however

00:23:58.640 --> 00:24:01.320
later it starts shrinking and this is

00:24:01.320 --> 00:24:04.279
due to work hardening Where Metal

00:24:04.279 --> 00:24:07.919
becomes stronger and harder but less

00:24:07.919 --> 00:24:11.120
ductile now in theory work hardening

00:24:11.120 --> 00:24:13.400
could lead to stress cracking and

00:24:13.400 --> 00:24:16.320
compromised strength so to test this we

00:24:16.320 --> 00:24:18.960
pull this Carabiner till failure while

00:24:18.960 --> 00:24:21.440
normal elongation curve of the Carabiner

00:24:21.440 --> 00:24:24.320
would look like this after the hardening

00:24:24.320 --> 00:24:27.480
Cycles there was a new elastic limit and

00:24:27.480 --> 00:24:29.919
it took more Force to deform the

00:24:29.919 --> 00:24:33.320
Carabiner further however that had no

00:24:33.320 --> 00:24:36.360
effect on the final breaking

00:24:36.360 --> 00:24:38.799
strength now of course in real life

00:24:38.799 --> 00:24:41.200
climbing situations we would never reach

00:24:41.200 --> 00:24:44.679
those forces or that many cycles so it's

00:24:44.679 --> 00:24:46.760
really nice to know that there is such a

00:24:46.760 --> 00:24:49.120
huge safety margin but in case you're

00:24:49.120 --> 00:24:51.559
rigging something where High forces are

00:24:51.559 --> 00:24:54.440
possible then keep in mind that our

00:24:54.440 --> 00:24:57.080
investigation just scratched the surface

00:24:57.080 --> 00:25:00.640
also 50% of elastic limit or yield limit

00:25:00.640 --> 00:25:04.120
that we found is for this Carabiner if

00:25:04.120 --> 00:25:06.919
we would change the shape of it or maybe

00:25:06.919 --> 00:25:09.399
how the metal was treated the numbers

00:25:09.399 --> 00:25:11.640
could be different so I hope this

00:25:11.640 --> 00:25:14.039
metallics world is as interesting for

00:25:14.039 --> 00:25:16.120
you as it is for me and if you have any

00:25:16.120 --> 00:25:19.120
questions put them put them to Dam

00:25:19.120 --> 00:25:21.720
comments because I plan more videos on

00:25:21.720 --> 00:25:25.480
this damn topic all right now since

00:25:25.480 --> 00:25:28.840
Singularity of stupidity is coming I'm

00:25:28.840 --> 00:25:32.399
trying my best to protect my biological

00:25:32.399 --> 00:25:35.039
thinking apparatus and lately I've been

00:25:35.039 --> 00:25:37.120
fighting hard against my mindless

00:25:37.120 --> 00:25:39.559
dopamine scrolling habits and replacing

00:25:39.559 --> 00:25:41.600
them with habits that grow new brain

00:25:41.600 --> 00:25:44.039
cells like using brilliant who is also

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For Fighting Singularity of stupidity

00:26:56.520 --> 00:26:59.039
kind of disappointing

00:26:59.039 --> 00:27:00.960
and very nice at the same

00:27:00.960 --> 00:27:03.960
time it's disappointing that we couldn't

00:27:03.960 --> 00:27:07.240
show uh real damage on the car Miner

00:27:07.240 --> 00:27:09.159
yeah but it's good and reassuring

00:27:09.159 --> 00:27:12.000
knowing that okay we have margin there

00:27:12.000 --> 00:27:15.200
is no big like

00:27:15.200 --> 00:27:19.440
Bo it's just lots of broken stuff and

00:27:19.440 --> 00:27:23.840
nothing enjoy climbing