so what happens if I accidentally drop a
quick draw
Rock so there is this theory that if I
get
unlucky a micro crack might form inside
the Carabiner that would be invisible to
outside
inspection and with repeat at
loading this micro crack could grow and
eventually
however there has been many debates
whether this micr fracture theory is
correct or not so to settle the matter I
visited three different companies for
this video I got access to a very
Advanced testing equipment even looked
inside the carabiners and had a
conversation with metallics engineer
from mamut that's the lowest one we had
so far so maybe it will get interesting
maybe it will get interesting he said
and the results
kind of surprised us so enjoy so step
number one we need to make carabiners
fall I was considering to go to some
building but this way we can control the
height and I get to play with my
impulsive purchase so a bit of 3D
modeling and electronics and we got this
oppa totally legal tum I wonder how it's
going to it's going to be good 3 2
one the sound step one of this
experiment is to clean the lab it has to
be hard surface you know keyboard
Warriors would complain less or
differently oh maybe I should go a bit
genter and that's 40 m holy [ __ ] it's
far up I would recommend everybody to go
a bit away okay ready three two one
go and that was disappointing I was
expecting that the quick dra will fall
like a dark and we'll have a nice smack
but instead it was tumbling like a leaf
more like a parachute not a dart so the
old genius me thought that maybe the
wind from the propellers pushes on the
sling slightly and then the Quick Draw
starts so change of plans no slings
slings don't
work 50 m 50 m that's crazy high 3 2
1
oo that was close and here is the first
thing I learned most small objects are
not aerodynamically stable so they will
not fall like a rock or a darkart wood
here is me dropping a quick drop it
immediately flips to the
side another attempt is to hang it off
long string and see if that
helps it's kind of
funny it actually has a lot of
lift
[Music]
okay yeah it did have a bit of Chip here
that I don't know how much that would be
a problem so at this point it was clear
that we needed more weight but it will
not be very consistent no it won't I
give up gave up on consistency on this
Experiment three two one holy
moly okay now it was um big bang wow you
want to see something funny how did that
happen all of them were connected to
this Loop now after the fall this
Carabiner was here it managed to unhook
from this link and hook to this one and
become like that that's crazy it's like
some magician trick okay so we dropped
from 100 m
height and it does not look satisfyingly
bad so maybe
we should just uh why are you guys going
[Music]
away now it looks significantly
worse woo that's nice oo
[Music]
ah oh [ __ ] one is a little bit bent no
you can't resell
it actually the bent one still works
fine you want this leave me a comment
and you have a chance to win a brand new
Carabiner actually never climbed on it
just one day use so we have a set of
carabiners that were dropped from 80 M
on a concrete floor then we have a set
of carabiners that we abused quite a lot
and then we have a set that I went uh
bit crazy with now for part two I am in
a very unusual Place hi I'm andus and we
are at lava 7 we are company
manufacturing shock absorber and
suspension testing diagnosis and service
equipment so nothing related to climbing
we have people related with climbing in
the company I myself also do some
bouldering okay Vlad will say that I'm
not doing anything but sometimes he's
visiting the gym now to test the fury
that with repeated loading the micro
crack could grow inside the Carabiner I
needed to find a way how to do thousands
of cycles of realistic loading
unfortunately most tensile testing
machines pull their things very slowly
and then they release very slowly and
that's not what happens in real life
however luckily for me these guys had a
different
machine wait what what yeah it can kill
people easily who he he or the
the operator yeah this is our latest
machine latest greatest inside we have
uh two of these linear Motors this is a
permanent magnet synchronous motor which
means that the moving part is the coils
not the magnets and we have the forcer
which is the moving part and it has the
coils inside and then you have a static
magnetic field from the magnets and a
controllable magnetic field from the
coil and those kind of push against each
other and that trans into motion and
translated to human language this
machine can move incredibly fast with
super high Precision for example we can
record track data from real rally track
and later play it back on this machine
so now this thing is kind of mimicking
entire track
yes something scary like 6 m/ second or
something so something scary something
scary you really like these things yep
two cycles you know high compression low
rebound should I move away from the
machine what's the worst that can happen
is this imagine a bullet yeah imagine a
bullet so this can shoot out so like you
need ah so straight into me basically
yeah well we can well it should I
understood I understood
even the floor is vibrating a little bit
I can find you a certain frequency where
this thing is just jumping around and
then you'll feel everything off so
that's how you are getting entertained
basically at work yes and no but you can
use that as a Midi player you know if
you just play the right uh the right
notes what was that 100 cycles that was
100 Cycles just one beep what is this
red thing on the shock absorber
expansion you have oil here and some oil
here it's also leaking but when the
Piston Rod is going inside here you can
see how the Piston here is moving okay
when I'm moving here out gas which is
here is compressing piston
up I thought that once you compress it
will want to push it back against your
compression but it wasn't not really and
many people don't understand actually
how shock absorber is working they think
that we are compressing something here
or something like that no we are just
moving oils between the chambers that's
it but then how does it come back you
have a spring every shock absorber you
have a spring here and it pushes the rod
out okay so basically this just slows
down the spring this yeah this slows
down the spring B face ah here we go we
learned something so this is our
plan now in the past we did record the
forces of the hardest climbing Falls
which peaked to about 4 and 1/2 k to the
Carabiner we scaled that up a little bit
removed unnecessary high frequency data
and this is the load curve that we
wanted to mimic for at least 5,000
Cycles let's try to replicate the data
that you sent me from an actual fall why
it's crazy how much it's
flexing um yes you can actually see the
gate rubbing against that Notch which is
quite interesting normally when you when
you climb and you take a fall you don't
think of uh something like that
happening okay so now we're going to
take the carabiners that we abused a lot
this one is even bent I'm actually
curious if it's going to straighten from
these loads or no what's your guess it
might well let's fix
it 5,000 Cycles
done it's still bent is it yeah yeah
it's still bent now before we break test
these carabiners I wanted to visit one
more interesting place
oh okay today I'm in another place which
is very interesting and we have a lot of
stuff here part of their business is
industrial high quality 3D printing both
in Plastics and in metal which is really
impressive to see and this is like
welding 3D welding it's high accurate 3D
welding yeah with laser so you weld
humanoids we can this all parts are 3D
printing so we have skull which is our
3D printing of course as anatomical
model is this like the real size of the
skull it looks kind of small yeah it's
real size so we have cranial implant
orbital floor implant facial implant
here and the big temperament B joint
implant Jesus this is so complicated who
can design these implants we we have
special software this is a 3D mouse that
I can
feel the thing you can feel yes okay
while nerd in me was really entertained
the real reason I came to Smart Factory
was this machine so many of you worried
that there might be a micro crack inside
of the Carabiner that we cannot see so
now we're going to try to see yes
computerized tomography we can scan
whatever parts we want it may be a
plastic parts it may be a metal part we
can observe what is inside that they
have cracks voids or something like that
so I was thinking maybe to compare the
most abused one and the brand new one
and see if there there is any difference
inside mhhm if there is we continue if
there isn't then Case Closed okay we
will
see it will turn 360° in half an hour
1,81 photo these images will be
reconstructed and we will get 3D Volume
so this is our Carabiner and now you can
see layer by layer of it as you can see
you can go slice by slice slice is 0.03
mm so 30 microns if there would be a
crack you could definitely see something
inside of it yeah I just ran through
through whole part but I have notic him
so it's a uniformly filled inside yeah
good news that uh we cannot see any
imperfections inside the Carabiner so we
scanned the most abused one and then
we're going to compare it to the brand
new one more results bam here bam we can
see that the damage part is uh bent yeah
it is bent yeah so what is this this is
like a difference yeah this is deviation
oh the gate is also very bent in the
middle it's bent where the hit was
actually in this spot yeah and nose is
also bent also if this will not show any
difference in the final breaking
strength
then now for the last part I wanted my
samples to be tested exactly as it's
defined in the standard and since I was
passing ing by Switzerland I couldn't
miss an opportunity to visit my friends
at mamut and meet their metallics expert
I brought some gifts for you as always I
have all kinds of different samples this
one is my favorite the question would
you whip on
this seeing the bent here I would not
it's a little bit bent okay you would
you wouldn't whip on this no no this is
not
bent no this one looks okay but you can
see it I yeah it fail from very high or
something or quite a few
times and the spring the spring of the
gate also feels quite loose I know you
did something special to it it's not
like just normal use so I brought a lot
of samples some were brand new as a
control group then a group that we
dropped from 100 m then one group that
we had a lot of fun with and the final
group where we went really really crazy
let's see if mammut Carabiner which is
rated for 21 kons is going to withstand
21 kons if it's brand new it will 100%
100% now there's going to be a game of
not blinking when it explodes
yeah Jesus Christ that was 22 K wow okay
now it's a new Carabiner or Carabiner
Carabiner Carabiner which we load loed
for 1,000 Cycles do you think that
affects the strength like this constant
deformation do you think that does
something to the carabin or it's
designed to to flex we don't design it
specifically to deform in a specific way
or in a specific amount but on those
loads like below 10 Kon there is just
such margin that it's staying in the uh
elastic deformation of the aluminum so
we're safe as long as you don't go to
the plastic deformation now this is
actually very interesting
every metal be it a carabiner or a
spring can flex and this is called
elastic elongation however if we apply
more
Force we will
permanently deform it and this is
already called plastic deformation and I
got curious to find out where is this
plastic limit for the carabiners so stay
till the end of this video because there
we will go a little bit near
all right so we broke all the new
carabiners and it was clear that such
cyclic loading does nothing to the
carabiners at least not to the brand new
ones all of them broke above their
rate so next a set that we dropped from
100 m these mostly had just light
scratches looked similar to what you
might see on older carabiners only one
had a little missing piece and this has
a bit of
yeah 23.2 K yeah
22.3 23 23 so basically dropping from
100 m makes the Carabiner slightly
stronger good no we cannot say that yet
but so we broke all the samples and
again all of them broke above their
rating and ironically some samples were
even stronger compared to brand new for
now we only have two breaking points
here or there if one had something like
this or be deeper exactly here or
somehow there that would have more
impact on ah so you say that there are
parts of Carabiner that are more
susceptible to breaking and if you have
a Nick in those parts it's more
problematic yes we break either here or
here yeah so if I would have have a Nick
in that area or close to the nose that
would be more problematic yes so now we
are looking into situation like this
would you whip on this I would be scared
to climb on this one this one has much
deeper cuts and here as well a lot of
deep Cuts yeah now this group of
carabiners looked really bad personally
I wouldn't be comfortable using
carabiners that look like this
very abused Carabiner yes
without extra
load no
way okay that's the lowest one we had so
far so maybe it will get interesting
maybe it will get interesting and it
didn't even though they were breaking at
slightly lower forces it was still above
their rating except one sample that was
very
close not very interesting
but actually very nice to know that even
after that abuse and that many cycles
it's still fine and um Moment of Truth
the last sample it's bent it's heavily
scratched and nicked missing parts of it
the gate is also looking
sideways loaded 5,000
times he said he would not whip on this
yeah this is the most abused
Carabiner let's see that's very
interesting now let's
go 3 kons 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 okay super
good enough
16
17 18 19
20 no way 21
22 look look it keeps
going it was the
best 22.5 yeah it was one of the best
there's only one that's bad how is this
possible so we broke a lot of carabiners
and I think we kind of reduced the sales
of
carabiners moving on from now on overall
we can say that this abuse you did was
not not really enough to really cause a
a safety problem in terms of breaking
strength but then you really have to
look into other problems on your
Carabiner if you look at this it's a bit
sharp everywhere that could definitely
damage the Rope so if you do this you
don't need to panic simply inspect it
and if your Carabiner doesn't look like
minded you should have enough safety
margin okay maybe a little note from the
future editor me what we showed is that
properly loaded carabiners are
incredibly reliable however there are
still many ways how they can fail for
example here is Daniel Woods snapping a
quick
drop so if you're new to climbing I
highly recommend to watch my blay Master
Class video on carabiners so you would
learn how they can fail so they would
not fail on you now before we go to the
bonus part of this video a couple of
thank yous first of of all thank you to
mammut they've been sponsoring my
channel for a while now which I
appreciate a lot but more importantly
it's always super interesting to visit
them to learn from them and then share
with you yay thank you and also my
visits to laba 7 and smart Factory was
super cool wow that's crazy that's
actually looks really bad I I wonder if
my vertebras are going to look like that
after so much editing so if you want to
learn more what we do links are in the
description and now bonus time now we
mentioned that such flexing for the
Carabiner was not an issue because it
was staying in the elastic deformation
limits however I was still curious to
find out what is the force that you can
pull on the Carabiner before you
permanently deform it so the plan was to
pull the carabiners to different forces
and observe the elongation so now we
pulled to 9 kons and then we relaxed
down and it came back to exactly what it
was before yeah so now we're going to
try to pull to 10 and see to 11 to 12
until we find when it starts deforming
yeah so we incrementally loaded the
carabiners to higher and higher loads
and here are the observations at around
half of the carabiner's rating we can
already see a very slight permanent
deformation but it's only about 50
microm which is not something you're
going to notice however that changes is
quick with higher forces at 70% of the
rating the formation is already about
half a millimeter which is significant
and pulling to even higher forces
Carabiner becomes very plastic mm
already it's elongated for 9 something
mm almost for a full CM before
breaking maybe like
this yeah this one is like full CM
longer this type of Carabiner as long as
you stay below 10 Kon it would always go
back to the same shape you would have no
problem so of course I got curious what
happens if you repeatedly load above 10
K yeah now we're going to pull on the
Carabiner up to 15 K go back close to
zero 15 again back to zero for yeah a
while so after the first pull the
carabiner had almost half a MM of
permanent deformation and then repeated
pulls we're slightly growing that but
less and less on every extra pull
however this is the behavior on the
relaxed state of the Carabiner when it's
not under load anymore if we look at the
top of the chart where we can see
elongation under load it is much more
interesting for the first Cycles
elongation keeps growing as well however
later it starts shrinking and this is
due to work hardening Where Metal
becomes stronger and harder but less
ductile now in theory work hardening
could lead to stress cracking and
compromised strength so to test this we
pull this Carabiner till failure while
normal elongation curve of the Carabiner
would look like this after the hardening
Cycles there was a new elastic limit and
it took more Force to deform the
Carabiner further however that had no
effect on the final breaking
strength now of course in real life
climbing situations we would never reach
those forces or that many cycles so it's
really nice to know that there is such a
huge safety margin but in case you're
rigging something where High forces are
possible then keep in mind that our
investigation just scratched the surface
also 50% of elastic limit or yield limit
that we found is for this Carabiner if
we would change the shape of it or maybe
how the metal was treated the numbers
could be different so I hope this
metallics world is as interesting for
you as it is for me and if you have any
questions put them put them to Dam
comments because I plan more videos on
this damn topic all right now since
Singularity of stupidity is coming I'm
trying my best to protect my biological
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dopamine scrolling habits and replacing
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kind of disappointing
and very nice at the same
time it's disappointing that we couldn't
show uh real damage on the car Miner
yeah but it's good and reassuring
knowing that okay we have margin there
is no big like
Bo it's just lots of broken stuff and
nothing enjoy climbing