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so what happens if I accidentally drop a

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quick draw

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Rock so there is this theory that if I

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get

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unlucky a micro crack might form inside

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the Carabiner that would be invisible to

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outside

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inspection and with repeat at

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loading this micro crack could grow and

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eventually

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however there has been many debates

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whether this micr fracture theory is

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correct or not so to settle the matter I

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visited three different companies for

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this video I got access to a very

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Advanced testing equipment even looked

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inside the carabiners and had a

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conversation with metallics engineer

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from mamut that's the lowest one we had

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so far so maybe it will get interesting

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maybe it will get interesting he said

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and the results

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kind of surprised us so enjoy so step

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number one we need to make carabiners

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fall I was considering to go to some

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building but this way we can control the

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height and I get to play with my

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impulsive purchase so a bit of 3D

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modeling and electronics and we got this

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oppa totally legal tum I wonder how it's

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going to it's going to be good 3 2

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one the sound step one of this

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experiment is to clean the lab it has to

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be hard surface you know keyboard

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Warriors would complain less or

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differently oh maybe I should go a bit

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genter and that's 40 m holy [ __ ] it's

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far up I would recommend everybody to go

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a bit away okay ready three two one

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go and that was disappointing I was

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expecting that the quick dra will fall

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like a dark and we'll have a nice smack

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but instead it was tumbling like a leaf

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more like a parachute not a dart so the

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old genius me thought that maybe the

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wind from the propellers pushes on the

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sling slightly and then the Quick Draw

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starts so change of plans no slings

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slings don't

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work 50 m 50 m that's crazy high 3 2

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1

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oo that was close and here is the first

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thing I learned most small objects are

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not aerodynamically stable so they will

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not fall like a rock or a darkart wood

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here is me dropping a quick drop it

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immediately flips to the

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side another attempt is to hang it off

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long string and see if that

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helps it's kind of

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funny it actually has a lot of

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lift

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[Music]

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okay yeah it did have a bit of Chip here

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that I don't know how much that would be

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a problem so at this point it was clear

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that we needed more weight but it will

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not be very consistent no it won't I

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give up gave up on consistency on this

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Experiment three two one holy

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moly okay now it was um big bang wow you

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want to see something funny how did that

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happen all of them were connected to

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this Loop now after the fall this

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Carabiner was here it managed to unhook

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from this link and hook to this one and

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become like that that's crazy it's like

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some magician trick okay so we dropped

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from 100 m

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height and it does not look satisfyingly

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bad so maybe

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we should just uh why are you guys going

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[Music]

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away now it looks significantly

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worse woo that's nice oo

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[Music]

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ah oh [ __ ] one is a little bit bent no

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you can't resell

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it actually the bent one still works

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fine you want this leave me a comment

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and you have a chance to win a brand new

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Carabiner actually never climbed on it

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just one day use so we have a set of

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carabiners that were dropped from 80 M

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on a concrete floor then we have a set

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of carabiners that we abused quite a lot

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and then we have a set that I went uh

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bit crazy with now for part two I am in

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a very unusual Place hi I'm andus and we

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are at lava 7 we are company

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manufacturing shock absorber and

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suspension testing diagnosis and service

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equipment so nothing related to climbing

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we have people related with climbing in

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the company I myself also do some

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bouldering okay Vlad will say that I'm

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not doing anything but sometimes he's

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visiting the gym now to test the fury

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that with repeated loading the micro

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crack could grow inside the Carabiner I

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needed to find a way how to do thousands

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of cycles of realistic loading

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unfortunately most tensile testing

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machines pull their things very slowly

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and then they release very slowly and

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that's not what happens in real life

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however luckily for me these guys had a

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different

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machine wait what what yeah it can kill

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people easily who he he or the

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the operator yeah this is our latest

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machine latest greatest inside we have

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uh two of these linear Motors this is a

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permanent magnet synchronous motor which

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means that the moving part is the coils

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not the magnets and we have the forcer

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which is the moving part and it has the

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coils inside and then you have a static

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magnetic field from the magnets and a

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controllable magnetic field from the

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coil and those kind of push against each

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other and that trans into motion and

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translated to human language this

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machine can move incredibly fast with

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super high Precision for example we can

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record track data from real rally track

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and later play it back on this machine

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so now this thing is kind of mimicking

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entire track

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yes something scary like 6 m/ second or

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something so something scary something

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scary you really like these things yep

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two cycles you know high compression low

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rebound should I move away from the

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machine what's the worst that can happen

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is this imagine a bullet yeah imagine a

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bullet so this can shoot out so like you

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need ah so straight into me basically

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yeah well we can well it should I

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understood I understood

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even the floor is vibrating a little bit

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I can find you a certain frequency where

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this thing is just jumping around and

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then you'll feel everything off so

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that's how you are getting entertained

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basically at work yes and no but you can

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use that as a Midi player you know if

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you just play the right uh the right

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notes what was that 100 cycles that was

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100 Cycles just one beep what is this

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red thing on the shock absorber

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expansion you have oil here and some oil

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here it's also leaking but when the

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Piston Rod is going inside here you can

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see how the Piston here is moving okay

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when I'm moving here out gas which is

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here is compressing piston

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up I thought that once you compress it

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will want to push it back against your

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compression but it wasn't not really and

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many people don't understand actually

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how shock absorber is working they think

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that we are compressing something here

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or something like that no we are just

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moving oils between the chambers that's

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it but then how does it come back you

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have a spring every shock absorber you

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have a spring here and it pushes the rod

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out okay so basically this just slows

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down the spring this yeah this slows

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down the spring B face ah here we go we

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learned something so this is our

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plan now in the past we did record the

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forces of the hardest climbing Falls

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which peaked to about 4 and 1/2 k to the

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Carabiner we scaled that up a little bit

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removed unnecessary high frequency data

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and this is the load curve that we

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wanted to mimic for at least 5,000

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Cycles let's try to replicate the data

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that you sent me from an actual fall why

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it's crazy how much it's

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flexing um yes you can actually see the

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gate rubbing against that Notch which is

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quite interesting normally when you when

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you climb and you take a fall you don't

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think of uh something like that

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happening okay so now we're going to

199
00:10:02,680 --> 00:10:05,560
take the carabiners that we abused a lot

200
00:10:05,560 --> 00:10:08,200
this one is even bent I'm actually

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00:10:08,200 --> 00:10:10,399
curious if it's going to straighten from

202
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these loads or no what's your guess it

203
00:10:12,920 --> 00:10:16,240
might well let's fix

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00:10:16,560 --> 00:10:20,200
it 5,000 Cycles

205
00:10:20,200 --> 00:10:23,760
done it's still bent is it yeah yeah

206
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it's still bent now before we break test

207
00:10:26,120 --> 00:10:28,320
these carabiners I wanted to visit one

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00:10:28,320 --> 00:10:30,600
more interesting place

209
00:10:30,600 --> 00:10:34,399
oh okay today I'm in another place which

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00:10:34,399 --> 00:10:36,720
is very interesting and we have a lot of

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stuff here part of their business is

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00:10:39,040 --> 00:10:41,880
industrial high quality 3D printing both

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in Plastics and in metal which is really

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impressive to see and this is like

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00:10:46,880 --> 00:10:50,320
welding 3D welding it's high accurate 3D

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00:10:50,320 --> 00:10:52,360
welding yeah with laser so you weld

217
00:10:52,360 --> 00:10:55,200
humanoids we can this all parts are 3D

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00:10:55,200 --> 00:10:56,959
printing so we have skull which is our

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00:10:56,959 --> 00:10:58,880
3D printing of course as anatomical

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00:10:58,880 --> 00:11:01,240
model is this like the real size of the

221
00:11:01,240 --> 00:11:03,600
skull it looks kind of small yeah it's

222
00:11:03,600 --> 00:11:05,560
real size so we have cranial implant

223
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orbital floor implant facial implant

224
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here and the big temperament B joint

225
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implant Jesus this is so complicated who

226
00:11:13,839 --> 00:11:17,040
can design these implants we we have

227
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special software this is a 3D mouse that

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I can

229
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feel the thing you can feel yes okay

230
00:11:25,399 --> 00:11:28,160
while nerd in me was really entertained

231
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the real reason I came to Smart Factory

232
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was this machine so many of you worried

233
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that there might be a micro crack inside

234
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of the Carabiner that we cannot see so

235
00:11:39,720 --> 00:11:41,760
now we're going to try to see yes

236
00:11:41,760 --> 00:11:43,959
computerized tomography we can scan

237
00:11:43,959 --> 00:11:46,760
whatever parts we want it may be a

238
00:11:46,760 --> 00:11:49,120
plastic parts it may be a metal part we

239
00:11:49,120 --> 00:11:51,480
can observe what is inside that they

240
00:11:51,480 --> 00:11:54,279
have cracks voids or something like that

241
00:11:54,279 --> 00:11:56,440
so I was thinking maybe to compare the

242
00:11:56,440 --> 00:11:58,600
most abused one and the brand new one

243
00:11:58,600 --> 00:12:00,600
and see if there there is any difference

244
00:12:00,600 --> 00:12:03,600
inside mhhm if there is we continue if

245
00:12:03,600 --> 00:12:06,399
there isn't then Case Closed okay we

246
00:12:06,399 --> 00:12:08,560
will

247
00:12:09,000 --> 00:12:13,440
see it will turn 360° in half an hour

248
00:12:13,440 --> 00:12:15,920
1,81 photo these images will be

249
00:12:15,920 --> 00:12:19,480
reconstructed and we will get 3D Volume

250
00:12:19,480 --> 00:12:22,320
so this is our Carabiner and now you can

251
00:12:22,320 --> 00:12:24,880
see layer by layer of it as you can see

252
00:12:24,880 --> 00:12:29,440
you can go slice by slice slice is 0.03

253
00:12:29,440 --> 00:12:32,040
mm so 30 microns if there would be a

254
00:12:32,040 --> 00:12:34,639
crack you could definitely see something

255
00:12:34,639 --> 00:12:37,240
inside of it yeah I just ran through

256
00:12:37,240 --> 00:12:39,279
through whole part but I have notic him

257
00:12:39,279 --> 00:12:43,360
so it's a uniformly filled inside yeah

258
00:12:43,360 --> 00:12:46,680
good news that uh we cannot see any

259
00:12:46,680 --> 00:12:49,680
imperfections inside the Carabiner so we

260
00:12:49,680 --> 00:12:51,880
scanned the most abused one and then

261
00:12:51,880 --> 00:12:53,760
we're going to compare it to the brand

262
00:12:53,760 --> 00:12:58,880
new one more results bam here bam we can

263
00:12:58,880 --> 00:13:02,040
see that the damage part is uh bent yeah

264
00:13:02,040 --> 00:13:04,399
it is bent yeah so what is this this is

265
00:13:04,399 --> 00:13:07,079
like a difference yeah this is deviation

266
00:13:07,079 --> 00:13:09,560
oh the gate is also very bent in the

267
00:13:09,560 --> 00:13:11,440
middle it's bent where the hit was

268
00:13:11,440 --> 00:13:13,959
actually in this spot yeah and nose is

269
00:13:13,959 --> 00:13:17,320
also bent also if this will not show any

270
00:13:17,320 --> 00:13:19,079
difference in the final breaking

271
00:13:19,079 --> 00:13:21,000
strength

272
00:13:21,000 --> 00:13:24,120
then now for the last part I wanted my

273
00:13:24,120 --> 00:13:26,880
samples to be tested exactly as it's

274
00:13:26,880 --> 00:13:28,880
defined in the standard and since I was

275
00:13:28,880 --> 00:13:30,760
passing ing by Switzerland I couldn't

276
00:13:30,760 --> 00:13:32,800
miss an opportunity to visit my friends

277
00:13:32,800 --> 00:13:35,800
at mamut and meet their metallics expert

278
00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:38,720
I brought some gifts for you as always I

279
00:13:38,720 --> 00:13:40,839
have all kinds of different samples this

280
00:13:40,839 --> 00:13:43,519
one is my favorite the question would

281
00:13:43,519 --> 00:13:44,720
you whip on

282
00:13:44,720 --> 00:13:47,920
this seeing the bent here I would not

283
00:13:47,920 --> 00:13:50,160
it's a little bit bent okay you would

284
00:13:50,160 --> 00:13:53,160
you wouldn't whip on this no no this is

285
00:13:53,160 --> 00:13:54,160
not

286
00:13:54,160 --> 00:13:58,040
bent no this one looks okay but you can

287
00:13:58,040 --> 00:14:02,120
see it I yeah it fail from very high or

288
00:14:02,120 --> 00:14:05,360
something or quite a few

289
00:14:05,360 --> 00:14:07,759
times and the spring the spring of the

290
00:14:07,759 --> 00:14:09,880
gate also feels quite loose I know you

291
00:14:09,880 --> 00:14:11,759
did something special to it it's not

292
00:14:11,759 --> 00:14:15,399
like just normal use so I brought a lot

293
00:14:15,399 --> 00:14:18,040
of samples some were brand new as a

294
00:14:18,040 --> 00:14:20,120
control group then a group that we

295
00:14:20,120 --> 00:14:23,160
dropped from 100 m then one group that

296
00:14:23,160 --> 00:14:25,680
we had a lot of fun with and the final

297
00:14:25,680 --> 00:14:29,839
group where we went really really crazy

298
00:14:29,839 --> 00:14:32,279
let's see if mammut Carabiner which is

299
00:14:32,279 --> 00:14:35,959
rated for 21 kons is going to withstand

300
00:14:35,959 --> 00:14:40,279
21 kons if it's brand new it will 100%

301
00:14:40,279 --> 00:14:42,800
100% now there's going to be a game of

302
00:14:42,800 --> 00:14:46,600
not blinking when it explodes

303
00:14:46,959 --> 00:14:53,360
yeah Jesus Christ that was 22 K wow okay

304
00:14:53,360 --> 00:14:57,079
now it's a new Carabiner or Carabiner

305
00:14:57,079 --> 00:14:59,320
Carabiner Carabiner which we load loed

306
00:14:59,320 --> 00:15:01,880
for 1,000 Cycles do you think that

307
00:15:01,880 --> 00:15:04,399
affects the strength like this constant

308
00:15:04,399 --> 00:15:06,040
deformation do you think that does

309
00:15:06,040 --> 00:15:07,399
something to the carabin or it's

310
00:15:07,399 --> 00:15:09,839
designed to to flex we don't design it

311
00:15:09,839 --> 00:15:12,399
specifically to deform in a specific way

312
00:15:12,399 --> 00:15:15,240
or in a specific amount but on those

313
00:15:15,240 --> 00:15:17,880
loads like below 10 Kon there is just

314
00:15:17,880 --> 00:15:21,199
such margin that it's staying in the uh

315
00:15:21,199 --> 00:15:23,959
elastic deformation of the aluminum so

316
00:15:23,959 --> 00:15:25,560
we're safe as long as you don't go to

317
00:15:25,560 --> 00:15:27,880
the plastic deformation now this is

318
00:15:27,880 --> 00:15:29,600
actually very interesting

319
00:15:29,600 --> 00:15:32,160
every metal be it a carabiner or a

320
00:15:32,160 --> 00:15:35,240
spring can flex and this is called

321
00:15:35,240 --> 00:15:38,519
elastic elongation however if we apply

322
00:15:38,519 --> 00:15:39,959
more

323
00:15:39,959 --> 00:15:42,360
Force we will

324
00:15:42,360 --> 00:15:45,560
permanently deform it and this is

325
00:15:45,560 --> 00:15:48,680
already called plastic deformation and I

326
00:15:48,680 --> 00:15:51,040
got curious to find out where is this

327
00:15:51,040 --> 00:15:54,360
plastic limit for the carabiners so stay

328
00:15:54,360 --> 00:15:56,880
till the end of this video because there

329
00:15:56,880 --> 00:15:59,839
we will go a little bit near

330
00:15:59,839 --> 00:16:02,079
all right so we broke all the new

331
00:16:02,079 --> 00:16:04,519
carabiners and it was clear that such

332
00:16:04,519 --> 00:16:06,680
cyclic loading does nothing to the

333
00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:09,519
carabiners at least not to the brand new

334
00:16:09,519 --> 00:16:12,920
ones all of them broke above their

335
00:16:12,920 --> 00:16:16,079
rate so next a set that we dropped from

336
00:16:16,079 --> 00:16:19,759
100 m these mostly had just light

337
00:16:19,759 --> 00:16:22,160
scratches looked similar to what you

338
00:16:22,160 --> 00:16:25,399
might see on older carabiners only one

339
00:16:25,399 --> 00:16:28,959
had a little missing piece and this has

340
00:16:28,959 --> 00:16:32,079
a bit of

341
00:16:33,519 --> 00:16:37,959
yeah 23.2 K yeah

342
00:16:37,959 --> 00:16:41,920
22.3 23 23 so basically dropping from

343
00:16:41,920 --> 00:16:44,959
100 m makes the Carabiner slightly

344
00:16:44,959 --> 00:16:48,199
stronger good no we cannot say that yet

345
00:16:48,199 --> 00:16:51,440
but so we broke all the samples and

346
00:16:51,440 --> 00:16:54,360
again all of them broke above their

347
00:16:54,360 --> 00:16:57,759
rating and ironically some samples were

348
00:16:57,759 --> 00:17:00,720
even stronger compared to brand new for

349
00:17:00,720 --> 00:17:02,360
now we only have two breaking points

350
00:17:02,360 --> 00:17:06,319
here or there if one had something like

351
00:17:06,319 --> 00:17:09,480
this or be deeper exactly here or

352
00:17:09,480 --> 00:17:12,640
somehow there that would have more

353
00:17:12,640 --> 00:17:15,319
impact on ah so you say that there are

354
00:17:15,319 --> 00:17:17,880
parts of Carabiner that are more

355
00:17:17,880 --> 00:17:19,919
susceptible to breaking and if you have

356
00:17:19,919 --> 00:17:22,520
a Nick in those parts it's more

357
00:17:22,520 --> 00:17:26,600
problematic yes we break either here or

358
00:17:26,600 --> 00:17:29,919
here yeah so if I would have have a Nick

359
00:17:29,919 --> 00:17:32,280
in that area or close to the nose that

360
00:17:32,280 --> 00:17:34,960
would be more problematic yes so now we

361
00:17:34,960 --> 00:17:37,760
are looking into situation like this

362
00:17:37,760 --> 00:17:40,000
would you whip on this I would be scared

363
00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:42,160
to climb on this one this one has much

364
00:17:42,160 --> 00:17:45,360
deeper cuts and here as well a lot of

365
00:17:45,360 --> 00:17:47,880
deep Cuts yeah now this group of

366
00:17:47,880 --> 00:17:51,840
carabiners looked really bad personally

367
00:17:51,840 --> 00:17:53,799
I wouldn't be comfortable using

368
00:17:53,799 --> 00:17:58,640
carabiners that look like this

369
00:17:59,039 --> 00:18:02,919
very abused Carabiner yes

370
00:18:02,919 --> 00:18:05,120
without extra

371
00:18:05,120 --> 00:18:08,000
load no

372
00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:11,679
way okay that's the lowest one we had so

373
00:18:11,679 --> 00:18:14,840
far so maybe it will get interesting

374
00:18:14,840 --> 00:18:17,840
maybe it will get interesting and it

375
00:18:17,840 --> 00:18:20,200
didn't even though they were breaking at

376
00:18:20,200 --> 00:18:22,679
slightly lower forces it was still above

377
00:18:22,679 --> 00:18:25,640
their rating except one sample that was

378
00:18:25,640 --> 00:18:26,799
very

379
00:18:26,799 --> 00:18:29,360
close not very interesting

380
00:18:29,360 --> 00:18:32,000
but actually very nice to know that even

381
00:18:32,000 --> 00:18:35,000
after that abuse and that many cycles

382
00:18:35,000 --> 00:18:39,840
it's still fine and um Moment of Truth

383
00:18:39,840 --> 00:18:44,520
the last sample it's bent it's heavily

384
00:18:44,520 --> 00:18:48,360
scratched and nicked missing parts of it

385
00:18:48,360 --> 00:18:52,480
the gate is also looking

386
00:18:53,120 --> 00:18:57,240
sideways loaded 5,000

387
00:18:57,240 --> 00:19:01,159
times he said he would not whip on this

388
00:19:01,159 --> 00:19:04,200
yeah this is the most abused

389
00:19:04,200 --> 00:19:06,440
Carabiner let's see that's very

390
00:19:06,440 --> 00:19:09,919
interesting now let's

391
00:19:10,840 --> 00:19:16,400
go 3 kons 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 okay super

392
00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:17,760
good enough

393
00:19:17,760 --> 00:19:19,919
16

394
00:19:19,919 --> 00:19:24,480
17 18 19

395
00:19:25,120 --> 00:19:29,799
20 no way 21

396
00:19:31,720 --> 00:19:34,799
22 look look it keeps

397
00:19:34,799 --> 00:19:36,880
going it was the

398
00:19:36,880 --> 00:19:40,080
best 22.5 yeah it was one of the best

399
00:19:40,080 --> 00:19:43,320
there's only one that's bad how is this

400
00:19:43,320 --> 00:19:46,440
possible so we broke a lot of carabiners

401
00:19:46,440 --> 00:19:49,880
and I think we kind of reduced the sales

402
00:19:49,880 --> 00:19:50,679
of

403
00:19:50,679 --> 00:19:54,159
carabiners moving on from now on overall

404
00:19:54,159 --> 00:19:58,320
we can say that this abuse you did was

405
00:19:58,320 --> 00:20:02,799
not not really enough to really cause a

406
00:20:02,799 --> 00:20:05,400
a safety problem in terms of breaking

407
00:20:05,400 --> 00:20:07,520
strength but then you really have to

408
00:20:07,520 --> 00:20:09,200
look into other problems on your

409
00:20:09,200 --> 00:20:11,679
Carabiner if you look at this it's a bit

410
00:20:11,679 --> 00:20:14,120
sharp everywhere that could definitely

411
00:20:14,120 --> 00:20:17,760
damage the Rope so if you do this you

412
00:20:17,760 --> 00:20:20,960
don't need to panic simply inspect it

413
00:20:20,960 --> 00:20:23,480
and if your Carabiner doesn't look like

414
00:20:23,480 --> 00:20:25,600
minded you should have enough safety

415
00:20:25,600 --> 00:20:28,159
margin okay maybe a little note from the

416
00:20:28,159 --> 00:20:30,760
future editor me what we showed is that

417
00:20:30,760 --> 00:20:32,880
properly loaded carabiners are

418
00:20:32,880 --> 00:20:35,440
incredibly reliable however there are

419
00:20:35,440 --> 00:20:38,000
still many ways how they can fail for

420
00:20:38,000 --> 00:20:40,400
example here is Daniel Woods snapping a

421
00:20:40,400 --> 00:20:42,559
quick

422
00:20:42,559 --> 00:20:45,200
drop so if you're new to climbing I

423
00:20:45,200 --> 00:20:47,520
highly recommend to watch my blay Master

424
00:20:47,520 --> 00:20:49,880
Class video on carabiners so you would

425
00:20:49,880 --> 00:20:52,799
learn how they can fail so they would

426
00:20:52,799 --> 00:20:55,679
not fail on you now before we go to the

427
00:20:55,679 --> 00:20:57,720
bonus part of this video a couple of

428
00:20:57,720 --> 00:20:59,880
thank yous first of of all thank you to

429
00:20:59,880 --> 00:21:01,440
mammut they've been sponsoring my

430
00:21:01,440 --> 00:21:03,159
channel for a while now which I

431
00:21:03,159 --> 00:21:05,640
appreciate a lot but more importantly

432
00:21:05,640 --> 00:21:07,760
it's always super interesting to visit

433
00:21:07,760 --> 00:21:10,240
them to learn from them and then share

434
00:21:10,240 --> 00:21:13,159
with you yay thank you and also my

435
00:21:13,159 --> 00:21:16,520
visits to laba 7 and smart Factory was

436
00:21:16,520 --> 00:21:18,600
super cool wow that's crazy that's

437
00:21:18,600 --> 00:21:21,039
actually looks really bad I I wonder if

438
00:21:21,039 --> 00:21:23,080
my vertebras are going to look like that

439
00:21:23,080 --> 00:21:25,200
after so much editing so if you want to

440
00:21:25,200 --> 00:21:27,520
learn more what we do links are in the

441
00:21:27,520 --> 00:21:30,480
description and now bonus time now we

442
00:21:30,480 --> 00:21:32,520
mentioned that such flexing for the

443
00:21:32,520 --> 00:21:35,240
Carabiner was not an issue because it

444
00:21:35,240 --> 00:21:37,559
was staying in the elastic deformation

445
00:21:37,559 --> 00:21:40,200
limits however I was still curious to

446
00:21:40,200 --> 00:21:43,039
find out what is the force that you can

447
00:21:43,039 --> 00:21:45,080
pull on the Carabiner before you

448
00:21:45,080 --> 00:21:47,840
permanently deform it so the plan was to

449
00:21:47,840 --> 00:21:50,520
pull the carabiners to different forces

450
00:21:50,520 --> 00:21:53,360
and observe the elongation so now we

451
00:21:53,360 --> 00:21:56,960
pulled to 9 kons and then we relaxed

452
00:21:56,960 --> 00:21:59,600
down and it came back to exactly what it

453
00:21:59,600 --> 00:22:01,320
was before yeah so now we're going to

454
00:22:01,320 --> 00:22:05,000
try to pull to 10 and see to 11 to 12

455
00:22:05,000 --> 00:22:08,200
until we find when it starts deforming

456
00:22:08,200 --> 00:22:10,000
yeah so we incrementally loaded the

457
00:22:10,000 --> 00:22:12,840
carabiners to higher and higher loads

458
00:22:12,840 --> 00:22:15,880
and here are the observations at around

459
00:22:15,880 --> 00:22:18,440
half of the carabiner's rating we can

460
00:22:18,440 --> 00:22:21,279
already see a very slight permanent

461
00:22:21,279 --> 00:22:24,240
deformation but it's only about 50

462
00:22:24,240 --> 00:22:26,480
microm which is not something you're

463
00:22:26,480 --> 00:22:28,799
going to notice however that changes is

464
00:22:28,799 --> 00:22:31,880
quick with higher forces at 70% of the

465
00:22:31,880 --> 00:22:34,440
rating the formation is already about

466
00:22:34,440 --> 00:22:37,240
half a millimeter which is significant

467
00:22:37,240 --> 00:22:39,840
and pulling to even higher forces

468
00:22:39,840 --> 00:22:43,720
Carabiner becomes very plastic mm

469
00:22:43,720 --> 00:22:48,240
already it's elongated for 9 something

470
00:22:48,240 --> 00:22:53,480
mm almost for a full CM before

471
00:22:54,240 --> 00:22:56,600
breaking maybe like

472
00:22:56,600 --> 00:23:00,520
this yeah this one is like full CM

473
00:23:00,520 --> 00:23:03,480
longer this type of Carabiner as long as

474
00:23:03,480 --> 00:23:07,039
you stay below 10 Kon it would always go

475
00:23:07,039 --> 00:23:09,080
back to the same shape you would have no

476
00:23:09,080 --> 00:23:11,600
problem so of course I got curious what

477
00:23:11,600 --> 00:23:15,039
happens if you repeatedly load above 10

478
00:23:15,039 --> 00:23:17,360
K yeah now we're going to pull on the

479
00:23:17,360 --> 00:23:20,760
Carabiner up to 15 K go back close to

480
00:23:20,760 --> 00:23:25,440
zero 15 again back to zero for yeah a

481
00:23:25,440 --> 00:23:27,960
while so after the first pull the

482
00:23:27,960 --> 00:23:31,000
carabiner had almost half a MM of

483
00:23:31,000 --> 00:23:33,440
permanent deformation and then repeated

484
00:23:33,440 --> 00:23:36,840
pulls we're slightly growing that but

485
00:23:36,840 --> 00:23:40,039
less and less on every extra pull

486
00:23:40,039 --> 00:23:42,440
however this is the behavior on the

487
00:23:42,440 --> 00:23:45,000
relaxed state of the Carabiner when it's

488
00:23:45,000 --> 00:23:47,600
not under load anymore if we look at the

489
00:23:47,600 --> 00:23:49,720
top of the chart where we can see

490
00:23:49,720 --> 00:23:52,559
elongation under load it is much more

491
00:23:52,559 --> 00:23:54,760
interesting for the first Cycles

492
00:23:54,760 --> 00:23:58,640
elongation keeps growing as well however

493
00:23:58,640 --> 00:24:01,320
later it starts shrinking and this is

494
00:24:01,320 --> 00:24:04,279
due to work hardening Where Metal

495
00:24:04,279 --> 00:24:07,919
becomes stronger and harder but less

496
00:24:07,919 --> 00:24:11,120
ductile now in theory work hardening

497
00:24:11,120 --> 00:24:13,400
could lead to stress cracking and

498
00:24:13,400 --> 00:24:16,320
compromised strength so to test this we

499
00:24:16,320 --> 00:24:18,960
pull this Carabiner till failure while

500
00:24:18,960 --> 00:24:21,440
normal elongation curve of the Carabiner

501
00:24:21,440 --> 00:24:24,320
would look like this after the hardening

502
00:24:24,320 --> 00:24:27,480
Cycles there was a new elastic limit and

503
00:24:27,480 --> 00:24:29,919
it took more Force to deform the

504
00:24:29,919 --> 00:24:33,320
Carabiner further however that had no

505
00:24:33,320 --> 00:24:36,360
effect on the final breaking

506
00:24:36,360 --> 00:24:38,799
strength now of course in real life

507
00:24:38,799 --> 00:24:41,200
climbing situations we would never reach

508
00:24:41,200 --> 00:24:44,679
those forces or that many cycles so it's

509
00:24:44,679 --> 00:24:46,760
really nice to know that there is such a

510
00:24:46,760 --> 00:24:49,120
huge safety margin but in case you're

511
00:24:49,120 --> 00:24:51,559
rigging something where High forces are

512
00:24:51,559 --> 00:24:54,440
possible then keep in mind that our

513
00:24:54,440 --> 00:24:57,080
investigation just scratched the surface

514
00:24:57,080 --> 00:25:00,640
also 50% of elastic limit or yield limit

515
00:25:00,640 --> 00:25:04,120
that we found is for this Carabiner if

516
00:25:04,120 --> 00:25:06,919
we would change the shape of it or maybe

517
00:25:06,919 --> 00:25:09,399
how the metal was treated the numbers

518
00:25:09,399 --> 00:25:11,640
could be different so I hope this

519
00:25:11,640 --> 00:25:14,039
metallics world is as interesting for

520
00:25:14,039 --> 00:25:16,120
you as it is for me and if you have any

521
00:25:16,120 --> 00:25:19,120
questions put them put them to Dam

522
00:25:19,120 --> 00:25:21,720
comments because I plan more videos on

523
00:25:21,720 --> 00:25:25,480
this damn topic all right now since

524
00:25:25,480 --> 00:25:28,840
Singularity of stupidity is coming I'm

525
00:25:28,840 --> 00:25:32,399
trying my best to protect my biological

526
00:25:32,399 --> 00:25:35,039
thinking apparatus and lately I've been

527
00:25:35,039 --> 00:25:37,120
fighting hard against my mindless

528
00:25:37,120 --> 00:25:39,559
dopamine scrolling habits and replacing

529
00:25:39,559 --> 00:25:41,600
them with habits that grow new brain

530
00:25:41,600 --> 00:25:44,039
cells like using brilliant who is also

531
00:25:44,039 --> 00:25:46,440
kindly sponsoring this video brilliant

532
00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:48,520
is where you learn by doing with

533
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been enjoying their new data science

537
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538
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a simple way and the best part is that

540
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all the courses are divided into short

541
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543
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544
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545
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547
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548
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556
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557
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kind of disappointing

558
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and very nice at the same

559
00:27:00,960 --> 00:27:03,960
time it's disappointing that we couldn't

560
00:27:03,960 --> 00:27:07,240
show uh real damage on the car Miner

561
00:27:07,240 --> 00:27:09,159
yeah but it's good and reassuring

562
00:27:09,159 --> 00:27:12,000
knowing that okay we have margin there

563
00:27:12,000 --> 00:27:15,200
is no big like

564
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Bo it's just lots of broken stuff and

565
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nothing enjoy climbing