0:00:00.599,0:00:03.439
so what happens if I accidentally drop a

0:00:03.439,0:00:06.799
quick draw

0:00:08.960,0:00:13.400
Rock so there is this theory that if I

0:00:13.400,0:00:15.600
get

0:00:15.600,0:00:18.480
unlucky a micro crack might form inside

0:00:18.480,0:00:21.119
the Carabiner that would be invisible to

0:00:21.119,0:00:22.240
outside

0:00:22.240,0:00:24.880
inspection and with repeat at

0:00:24.880,0:00:28.320
loading this micro crack could grow and

0:00:28.320,0:00:31.080
eventually

0:00:31.080,0:00:33.559
however there has been many debates

0:00:33.559,0:00:35.800
whether this micr fracture theory is

0:00:35.800,0:00:39.040
correct or not so to settle the matter I

0:00:39.040,0:00:41.120
visited three different companies for

0:00:41.120,0:00:43.399
this video I got access to a very

0:00:43.399,0:00:46.039
Advanced testing equipment even looked

0:00:46.039,0:00:48.559
inside the carabiners and had a

0:00:48.559,0:00:50.920
conversation with metallics engineer

0:00:50.920,0:00:53.719
from mamut that's the lowest one we had

0:00:53.719,0:00:56.640
so far so maybe it will get interesting

0:00:56.640,0:00:58.719
maybe it will get interesting he said

0:00:58.719,0:01:00.680
and the results

0:01:00.680,0:01:05.239
kind of surprised us so enjoy so step

0:01:05.239,0:01:07.200
number one we need to make carabiners

0:01:07.200,0:01:08.960
fall I was considering to go to some

0:01:08.960,0:01:11.880
building but this way we can control the

0:01:11.880,0:01:15.560
height and I get to play with my

0:01:15.560,0:01:18.560
impulsive purchase so a bit of 3D

0:01:18.560,0:01:23.200
modeling and electronics and we got this

0:01:23.200,0:01:27.960
oppa totally legal tum I wonder how it's

0:01:27.960,0:01:33.880
going to it's going to be good 3 2

0:01:33.880,0:01:37.119
one the sound step one of this

0:01:37.119,0:01:39.320
experiment is to clean the lab it has to

0:01:39.320,0:01:41.360
be hard surface you know keyboard

0:01:41.360,0:01:45.960
Warriors would complain less or

0:01:45.960,0:01:49.079
differently oh maybe I should go a bit

0:01:49.079,0:01:54.040
genter and that's 40 m holy [ __ ] it's

0:01:54.040,0:01:56.719
far up I would recommend everybody to go

0:01:56.719,0:02:04.079
a bit away okay ready three two one

0:02:06.880,0:02:09.879
go and that was disappointing I was

0:02:09.879,0:02:11.720
expecting that the quick dra will fall

0:02:11.720,0:02:15.319
like a dark and we'll have a nice smack

0:02:15.319,0:02:19.959
but instead it was tumbling like a leaf

0:02:19.959,0:02:23.640
more like a parachute not a dart so the

0:02:23.640,0:02:27.000
old genius me thought that maybe the

0:02:27.000,0:02:29.440
wind from the propellers pushes on the

0:02:29.440,0:02:34.120
sling slightly and then the Quick Draw

0:02:34.120,0:02:36.599
starts so change of plans no slings

0:02:36.599,0:02:39.200
slings don't

0:02:39.440,0:02:46.200
work 50 m 50 m that's crazy high 3 2

0:02:46.400,0:02:49.239
1

0:02:49.239,0:02:52.360
oo that was close and here is the first

0:02:52.360,0:02:55.159
thing I learned most small objects are

0:02:55.159,0:02:57.800
not aerodynamically stable so they will

0:02:57.800,0:03:00.680
not fall like a rock or a darkart wood

0:03:00.680,0:03:03.120
here is me dropping a quick drop it

0:03:03.120,0:03:06.720
immediately flips to the

0:03:09.640,0:03:12.760
side another attempt is to hang it off

0:03:12.760,0:03:16.000
long string and see if that

0:03:16.000,0:03:18.680
helps it's kind of

0:03:18.680,0:03:21.840
funny it actually has a lot of

0:03:21.840,0:03:23.900
lift

0:03:23.900,0:03:26.480
[Music]

0:03:26.480,0:03:29.799
okay yeah it did have a bit of Chip here

0:03:29.799,0:03:31.599
that I don't know how much that would be

0:03:31.599,0:03:34.400
a problem so at this point it was clear

0:03:34.400,0:03:37.040
that we needed more weight but it will

0:03:37.040,0:03:41.200
not be very consistent no it won't I

0:03:41.200,0:03:43.120
give up gave up on consistency on this

0:03:43.120,0:03:49.519
Experiment three two one holy

0:03:53.159,0:03:58.560
moly okay now it was um big bang wow you

0:03:58.560,0:04:02.319
want to see something funny how did that

0:04:02.319,0:04:05.120
happen all of them were connected to

0:04:05.120,0:04:09.439
this Loop now after the fall this

0:04:09.439,0:04:13.040
Carabiner was here it managed to unhook

0:04:13.040,0:04:15.400
from this link and hook to this one and

0:04:15.400,0:04:17.479
become like that that's crazy it's like

0:04:17.479,0:04:20.280
some magician trick okay so we dropped

0:04:20.280,0:04:22.440
from 100 m

0:04:22.440,0:04:27.240
height and it does not look satisfyingly

0:04:27.240,0:04:30.600
bad so maybe

0:04:30.600,0:04:35.090
we should just uh why are you guys going

0:04:35.090,0:04:40.840
[Music]

0:04:40.840,0:04:45.120
away now it looks significantly

0:04:47.360,0:04:51.510
worse woo that's nice oo

0:04:51.510,0:04:57.010
[Music]

0:05:01.280,0:05:04.479
ah oh [ __ ] one is a little bit bent no

0:05:04.479,0:05:06.360
you can't resell

0:05:06.360,0:05:08.919
it actually the bent one still works

0:05:08.919,0:05:12.520
fine you want this leave me a comment

0:05:12.520,0:05:14.280
and you have a chance to win a brand new

0:05:14.280,0:05:16.520
Carabiner actually never climbed on it

0:05:16.520,0:05:18.759
just one day use so we have a set of

0:05:18.759,0:05:21.919
carabiners that were dropped from 80 M

0:05:21.919,0:05:24.120
on a concrete floor then we have a set

0:05:24.120,0:05:27.120
of carabiners that we abused quite a lot

0:05:27.120,0:05:29.960
and then we have a set that I went uh

0:05:29.960,0:05:34.560
bit crazy with now for part two I am in

0:05:34.560,0:05:38.400
a very unusual Place hi I'm andus and we

0:05:38.400,0:05:40.400
are at lava 7 we are company

0:05:40.400,0:05:42.160
manufacturing shock absorber and

0:05:42.160,0:05:44.720
suspension testing diagnosis and service

0:05:44.720,0:05:47.039
equipment so nothing related to climbing

0:05:47.039,0:05:49.759
we have people related with climbing in

0:05:49.759,0:05:52.319
the company I myself also do some

0:05:52.319,0:05:54.400
bouldering okay Vlad will say that I'm

0:05:54.400,0:05:56.840
not doing anything but sometimes he's

0:05:56.840,0:05:59.800
visiting the gym now to test the fury

0:05:59.800,0:06:02.080
that with repeated loading the micro

0:06:02.080,0:06:04.560
crack could grow inside the Carabiner I

0:06:04.560,0:06:07.199
needed to find a way how to do thousands

0:06:07.199,0:06:09.880
of cycles of realistic loading

0:06:09.880,0:06:12.199
unfortunately most tensile testing

0:06:12.199,0:06:15.120
machines pull their things very slowly

0:06:15.120,0:06:17.560
and then they release very slowly and

0:06:17.560,0:06:19.720
that's not what happens in real life

0:06:19.720,0:06:22.720
however luckily for me these guys had a

0:06:22.720,0:06:24.599
different

0:06:24.599,0:06:27.319
machine wait what what yeah it can kill

0:06:27.319,0:06:30.759
people easily who he he or the

0:06:30.759,0:06:33.360
the operator yeah this is our latest

0:06:33.360,0:06:36.240
machine latest greatest inside we have

0:06:36.240,0:06:38.639
uh two of these linear Motors this is a

0:06:38.639,0:06:41.160
permanent magnet synchronous motor which

0:06:41.160,0:06:44.160
means that the moving part is the coils

0:06:44.160,0:06:47.120
not the magnets and we have the forcer

0:06:47.120,0:06:48.960
which is the moving part and it has the

0:06:48.960,0:06:51.680
coils inside and then you have a static

0:06:51.680,0:06:54.039
magnetic field from the magnets and a

0:06:54.039,0:06:55.680
controllable magnetic field from the

0:06:55.680,0:06:58.400
coil and those kind of push against each

0:06:58.400,0:07:01.080
other and that trans into motion and

0:07:01.080,0:07:03.400
translated to human language this

0:07:03.400,0:07:06.199
machine can move incredibly fast with

0:07:06.199,0:07:08.599
super high Precision for example we can

0:07:08.599,0:07:12.120
record track data from real rally track

0:07:12.120,0:07:14.720
and later play it back on this machine

0:07:14.720,0:07:17.280
so now this thing is kind of mimicking

0:07:17.280,0:07:20.520
entire track

0:07:24.879,0:07:28.759
yes something scary like 6 m/ second or

0:07:28.759,0:07:31.080
something so something scary something

0:07:31.080,0:07:34.360
scary you really like these things yep

0:07:34.360,0:07:36.520
two cycles you know high compression low

0:07:36.520,0:07:38.599
rebound should I move away from the

0:07:38.599,0:07:41.960
machine what's the worst that can happen

0:07:41.960,0:07:45.479
is this imagine a bullet yeah imagine a

0:07:45.479,0:07:48.560
bullet so this can shoot out so like you

0:07:48.560,0:07:50.720
need ah so straight into me basically

0:07:50.720,0:07:52.960
yeah well we can well it should I

0:07:52.960,0:07:56.720
understood I understood

0:08:01.319,0:08:03.759
even the floor is vibrating a little bit

0:08:03.759,0:08:06.360
I can find you a certain frequency where

0:08:06.360,0:08:08.080
this thing is just jumping around and

0:08:08.080,0:08:10.280
then you'll feel everything off so

0:08:10.280,0:08:12.000
that's how you are getting entertained

0:08:12.000,0:08:15.720
basically at work yes and no but you can

0:08:15.720,0:08:17.479
use that as a Midi player you know if

0:08:17.479,0:08:20.560
you just play the right uh the right

0:08:20.560,0:08:24.599
notes what was that 100 cycles that was

0:08:24.599,0:08:27.159
100 Cycles just one beep what is this

0:08:27.159,0:08:29.000
red thing on the shock absorber

0:08:29.000,0:08:32.080
expansion you have oil here and some oil

0:08:32.080,0:08:34.640
here it's also leaking but when the

0:08:34.640,0:08:36.479
Piston Rod is going inside here you can

0:08:36.479,0:08:40.039
see how the Piston here is moving okay

0:08:40.039,0:08:43.039
when I'm moving here out gas which is

0:08:43.039,0:08:45.399
here is compressing piston

0:08:45.399,0:08:48.200
up I thought that once you compress it

0:08:48.200,0:08:50.399
will want to push it back against your

0:08:50.399,0:08:52.399
compression but it wasn't not really and

0:08:52.399,0:08:53.800
many people don't understand actually

0:08:53.800,0:08:55.399
how shock absorber is working they think

0:08:55.399,0:08:57.200
that we are compressing something here

0:08:57.200,0:08:59.079
or something like that no we are just

0:08:59.079,0:09:01.320
moving oils between the chambers that's

0:09:01.320,0:09:03.200
it but then how does it come back you

0:09:03.200,0:09:05.880
have a spring every shock absorber you

0:09:05.880,0:09:08.760
have a spring here and it pushes the rod

0:09:08.760,0:09:12.040
out okay so basically this just slows

0:09:12.040,0:09:14.240
down the spring this yeah this slows

0:09:14.240,0:09:17.240
down the spring B face ah here we go we

0:09:17.240,0:09:21.200
learned something so this is our

0:09:21.200,0:09:24.040
plan now in the past we did record the

0:09:24.040,0:09:27.000
forces of the hardest climbing Falls

0:09:27.000,0:09:29.880
which peaked to about 4 and 1/2 k to the

0:09:29.880,0:09:32.800
Carabiner we scaled that up a little bit

0:09:32.800,0:09:35.519
removed unnecessary high frequency data

0:09:35.519,0:09:37.440
and this is the load curve that we

0:09:37.440,0:09:40.040
wanted to mimic for at least 5,000

0:09:40.040,0:09:43.120
Cycles let's try to replicate the data

0:09:43.120,0:09:46.320
that you sent me from an actual fall why

0:09:46.320,0:09:48.880
it's crazy how much it's

0:09:48.880,0:09:52.040
flexing um yes you can actually see the

0:09:52.040,0:09:55.320
gate rubbing against that Notch which is

0:09:55.320,0:09:57.480
quite interesting normally when you when

0:09:57.480,0:09:59.040
you climb and you take a fall you don't

0:09:59.040,0:10:00.800
think of uh something like that

0:10:00.800,0:10:02.680
happening okay so now we're going to

0:10:02.680,0:10:05.560
take the carabiners that we abused a lot

0:10:05.560,0:10:08.200
this one is even bent I'm actually

0:10:08.200,0:10:10.399
curious if it's going to straighten from

0:10:10.399,0:10:12.920
these loads or no what's your guess it

0:10:12.920,0:10:16.240
might well let's fix

0:10:16.560,0:10:20.200
it 5,000 Cycles

0:10:20.200,0:10:23.760
done it's still bent is it yeah yeah

0:10:23.760,0:10:26.120
it's still bent now before we break test

0:10:26.120,0:10:28.320
these carabiners I wanted to visit one

0:10:28.320,0:10:30.600
more interesting place

0:10:30.600,0:10:34.399
oh okay today I'm in another place which

0:10:34.399,0:10:36.720
is very interesting and we have a lot of

0:10:36.720,0:10:39.040
stuff here part of their business is

0:10:39.040,0:10:41.880
industrial high quality 3D printing both

0:10:41.880,0:10:44.800
in Plastics and in metal which is really

0:10:44.800,0:10:46.880
impressive to see and this is like

0:10:46.880,0:10:50.320
welding 3D welding it's high accurate 3D

0:10:50.320,0:10:52.360
welding yeah with laser so you weld

0:10:52.360,0:10:55.200
humanoids we can this all parts are 3D

0:10:55.200,0:10:56.959
printing so we have skull which is our

0:10:56.959,0:10:58.880
3D printing of course as anatomical

0:10:58.880,0:11:01.240
model is this like the real size of the

0:11:01.240,0:11:03.600
skull it looks kind of small yeah it's

0:11:03.600,0:11:05.560
real size so we have cranial implant

0:11:05.560,0:11:08.120
orbital floor implant facial implant

0:11:08.120,0:11:10.720
here and the big temperament B joint

0:11:10.720,0:11:13.839
implant Jesus this is so complicated who

0:11:13.839,0:11:17.040
can design these implants we we have

0:11:17.040,0:11:19.760
special software this is a 3D mouse that

0:11:19.760,0:11:20.880
I can

0:11:20.880,0:11:25.399
feel the thing you can feel yes okay

0:11:25.399,0:11:28.160
while nerd in me was really entertained

0:11:28.160,0:11:30.639
the real reason I came to Smart Factory

0:11:30.639,0:11:33.839
was this machine so many of you worried

0:11:33.839,0:11:36.360
that there might be a micro crack inside

0:11:36.360,0:11:39.720
of the Carabiner that we cannot see so

0:11:39.720,0:11:41.760
now we're going to try to see yes

0:11:41.760,0:11:43.959
computerized tomography we can scan

0:11:43.959,0:11:46.760
whatever parts we want it may be a

0:11:46.760,0:11:49.120
plastic parts it may be a metal part we

0:11:49.120,0:11:51.480
can observe what is inside that they

0:11:51.480,0:11:54.279
have cracks voids or something like that

0:11:54.279,0:11:56.440
so I was thinking maybe to compare the

0:11:56.440,0:11:58.600
most abused one and the brand new one

0:11:58.600,0:12:00.600
and see if there there is any difference

0:12:00.600,0:12:03.600
inside mhhm if there is we continue if

0:12:03.600,0:12:06.399
there isn't then Case Closed okay we

0:12:06.399,0:12:08.560
will

0:12:09.000,0:12:13.440
see it will turn 360° in half an hour

0:12:13.440,0:12:15.920
1,81 photo these images will be

0:12:15.920,0:12:19.480
reconstructed and we will get 3D Volume

0:12:19.480,0:12:22.320
so this is our Carabiner and now you can

0:12:22.320,0:12:24.880
see layer by layer of it as you can see

0:12:24.880,0:12:29.440
you can go slice by slice slice is 0.03

0:12:29.440,0:12:32.040
mm so 30 microns if there would be a

0:12:32.040,0:12:34.639
crack you could definitely see something

0:12:34.639,0:12:37.240
inside of it yeah I just ran through

0:12:37.240,0:12:39.279
through whole part but I have notic him

0:12:39.279,0:12:43.360
so it's a uniformly filled inside yeah

0:12:43.360,0:12:46.680
good news that uh we cannot see any

0:12:46.680,0:12:49.680
imperfections inside the Carabiner so we

0:12:49.680,0:12:51.880
scanned the most abused one and then

0:12:51.880,0:12:53.760
we're going to compare it to the brand

0:12:53.760,0:12:58.880
new one more results bam here bam we can

0:12:58.880,0:13:02.040
see that the damage part is uh bent yeah

0:13:02.040,0:13:04.399
it is bent yeah so what is this this is

0:13:04.399,0:13:07.079
like a difference yeah this is deviation

0:13:07.079,0:13:09.560
oh the gate is also very bent in the

0:13:09.560,0:13:11.440
middle it's bent where the hit was

0:13:11.440,0:13:13.959
actually in this spot yeah and nose is

0:13:13.959,0:13:17.320
also bent also if this will not show any

0:13:17.320,0:13:19.079
difference in the final breaking

0:13:19.079,0:13:21.000
strength

0:13:21.000,0:13:24.120
then now for the last part I wanted my

0:13:24.120,0:13:26.880
samples to be tested exactly as it's

0:13:26.880,0:13:28.880
defined in the standard and since I was

0:13:28.880,0:13:30.760
passing ing by Switzerland I couldn't

0:13:30.760,0:13:32.800
miss an opportunity to visit my friends

0:13:32.800,0:13:35.800
at mamut and meet their metallics expert

0:13:35.800,0:13:38.720
I brought some gifts for you as always I

0:13:38.720,0:13:40.839
have all kinds of different samples this

0:13:40.839,0:13:43.519
one is my favorite the question would

0:13:43.519,0:13:44.720
you whip on

0:13:44.720,0:13:47.920
this seeing the bent here I would not

0:13:47.920,0:13:50.160
it's a little bit bent okay you would

0:13:50.160,0:13:53.160
you wouldn't whip on this no no this is

0:13:53.160,0:13:54.160
not

0:13:54.160,0:13:58.040
bent no this one looks okay but you can

0:13:58.040,0:14:02.120
see it I yeah it fail from very high or

0:14:02.120,0:14:05.360
something or quite a few

0:14:05.360,0:14:07.759
times and the spring the spring of the

0:14:07.759,0:14:09.880
gate also feels quite loose I know you

0:14:09.880,0:14:11.759
did something special to it it's not

0:14:11.759,0:14:15.399
like just normal use so I brought a lot

0:14:15.399,0:14:18.040
of samples some were brand new as a

0:14:18.040,0:14:20.120
control group then a group that we

0:14:20.120,0:14:23.160
dropped from 100 m then one group that

0:14:23.160,0:14:25.680
we had a lot of fun with and the final

0:14:25.680,0:14:29.839
group where we went really really crazy

0:14:29.839,0:14:32.279
let's see if mammut Carabiner which is

0:14:32.279,0:14:35.959
rated for 21 kons is going to withstand

0:14:35.959,0:14:40.279
21 kons if it's brand new it will 100%

0:14:40.279,0:14:42.800
100% now there's going to be a game of

0:14:42.800,0:14:46.600
not blinking when it explodes

0:14:46.959,0:14:53.360
yeah Jesus Christ that was 22 K wow okay

0:14:53.360,0:14:57.079
now it's a new Carabiner or Carabiner

0:14:57.079,0:14:59.320
Carabiner Carabiner which we load loed

0:14:59.320,0:15:01.880
for 1,000 Cycles do you think that

0:15:01.880,0:15:04.399
affects the strength like this constant

0:15:04.399,0:15:06.040
deformation do you think that does

0:15:06.040,0:15:07.399
something to the carabin or it's

0:15:07.399,0:15:09.839
designed to to flex we don't design it

0:15:09.839,0:15:12.399
specifically to deform in a specific way

0:15:12.399,0:15:15.240
or in a specific amount but on those

0:15:15.240,0:15:17.880
loads like below 10 Kon there is just

0:15:17.880,0:15:21.199
such margin that it's staying in the uh

0:15:21.199,0:15:23.959
elastic deformation of the aluminum so

0:15:23.959,0:15:25.560
we're safe as long as you don't go to

0:15:25.560,0:15:27.880
the plastic deformation now this is

0:15:27.880,0:15:29.600
actually very interesting

0:15:29.600,0:15:32.160
every metal be it a carabiner or a

0:15:32.160,0:15:35.240
spring can flex and this is called

0:15:35.240,0:15:38.519
elastic elongation however if we apply

0:15:38.519,0:15:39.959
more

0:15:39.959,0:15:42.360
Force we will

0:15:42.360,0:15:45.560
permanently deform it and this is

0:15:45.560,0:15:48.680
already called plastic deformation and I

0:15:48.680,0:15:51.040
got curious to find out where is this

0:15:51.040,0:15:54.360
plastic limit for the carabiners so stay

0:15:54.360,0:15:56.880
till the end of this video because there

0:15:56.880,0:15:59.839
we will go a little bit near

0:15:59.839,0:16:02.079
all right so we broke all the new

0:16:02.079,0:16:04.519
carabiners and it was clear that such

0:16:04.519,0:16:06.680
cyclic loading does nothing to the

0:16:06.680,0:16:09.519
carabiners at least not to the brand new

0:16:09.519,0:16:12.920
ones all of them broke above their

0:16:12.920,0:16:16.079
rate so next a set that we dropped from

0:16:16.079,0:16:19.759
100 m these mostly had just light

0:16:19.759,0:16:22.160
scratches looked similar to what you

0:16:22.160,0:16:25.399
might see on older carabiners only one

0:16:25.399,0:16:28.959
had a little missing piece and this has

0:16:28.959,0:16:32.079
a bit of

0:16:33.519,0:16:37.959
yeah 23.2 K yeah

0:16:37.959,0:16:41.920
22.3 23 23 so basically dropping from

0:16:41.920,0:16:44.959
100 m makes the Carabiner slightly

0:16:44.959,0:16:48.199
stronger good no we cannot say that yet

0:16:48.199,0:16:51.440
but so we broke all the samples and

0:16:51.440,0:16:54.360
again all of them broke above their

0:16:54.360,0:16:57.759
rating and ironically some samples were

0:16:57.759,0:17:00.720
even stronger compared to brand new for

0:17:00.720,0:17:02.360
now we only have two breaking points

0:17:02.360,0:17:06.319
here or there if one had something like

0:17:06.319,0:17:09.480
this or be deeper exactly here or

0:17:09.480,0:17:12.640
somehow there that would have more

0:17:12.640,0:17:15.319
impact on ah so you say that there are

0:17:15.319,0:17:17.880
parts of Carabiner that are more

0:17:17.880,0:17:19.919
susceptible to breaking and if you have

0:17:19.919,0:17:22.520
a Nick in those parts it's more

0:17:22.520,0:17:26.600
problematic yes we break either here or

0:17:26.600,0:17:29.919
here yeah so if I would have have a Nick

0:17:29.919,0:17:32.280
in that area or close to the nose that

0:17:32.280,0:17:34.960
would be more problematic yes so now we

0:17:34.960,0:17:37.760
are looking into situation like this

0:17:37.760,0:17:40.000
would you whip on this I would be scared

0:17:40.000,0:17:42.160
to climb on this one this one has much

0:17:42.160,0:17:45.360
deeper cuts and here as well a lot of

0:17:45.360,0:17:47.880
deep Cuts yeah now this group of

0:17:47.880,0:17:51.840
carabiners looked really bad personally

0:17:51.840,0:17:53.799
I wouldn't be comfortable using

0:17:53.799,0:17:58.640
carabiners that look like this

0:17:59.039,0:18:02.919
very abused Carabiner yes

0:18:02.919,0:18:05.120
without extra

0:18:05.120,0:18:08.000
load no

0:18:08.000,0:18:11.679
way okay that's the lowest one we had so

0:18:11.679,0:18:14.840
far so maybe it will get interesting

0:18:14.840,0:18:17.840
maybe it will get interesting and it

0:18:17.840,0:18:20.200
didn't even though they were breaking at

0:18:20.200,0:18:22.679
slightly lower forces it was still above

0:18:22.679,0:18:25.640
their rating except one sample that was

0:18:25.640,0:18:26.799
very

0:18:26.799,0:18:29.360
close not very interesting

0:18:29.360,0:18:32.000
but actually very nice to know that even

0:18:32.000,0:18:35.000
after that abuse and that many cycles

0:18:35.000,0:18:39.840
it's still fine and um Moment of Truth

0:18:39.840,0:18:44.520
the last sample it's bent it's heavily

0:18:44.520,0:18:48.360
scratched and nicked missing parts of it

0:18:48.360,0:18:52.480
the gate is also looking

0:18:53.120,0:18:57.240
sideways loaded 5,000

0:18:57.240,0:19:01.159
times he said he would not whip on this

0:19:01.159,0:19:04.200
yeah this is the most abused

0:19:04.200,0:19:06.440
Carabiner let's see that's very

0:19:06.440,0:19:09.919
interesting now let's

0:19:10.840,0:19:16.400
go 3 kons 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 okay super

0:19:16.400,0:19:17.760
good enough

0:19:17.760,0:19:19.919
16

0:19:19.919,0:19:24.480
17 18 19

0:19:25.120,0:19:29.799
20 no way 21

0:19:31.720,0:19:34.799
22 look look it keeps

0:19:34.799,0:19:36.880
going it was the

0:19:36.880,0:19:40.080
best 22.5 yeah it was one of the best

0:19:40.080,0:19:43.320
there's only one that's bad how is this

0:19:43.320,0:19:46.440
possible so we broke a lot of carabiners

0:19:46.440,0:19:49.880
and I think we kind of reduced the sales

0:19:49.880,0:19:50.679
of

0:19:50.679,0:19:54.159
carabiners moving on from now on overall

0:19:54.159,0:19:58.320
we can say that this abuse you did was

0:19:58.320,0:20:02.799
not not really enough to really cause a

0:20:02.799,0:20:05.400
a safety problem in terms of breaking

0:20:05.400,0:20:07.520
strength but then you really have to

0:20:07.520,0:20:09.200
look into other problems on your

0:20:09.200,0:20:11.679
Carabiner if you look at this it's a bit

0:20:11.679,0:20:14.120
sharp everywhere that could definitely

0:20:14.120,0:20:17.760
damage the Rope so if you do this you

0:20:17.760,0:20:20.960
don't need to panic simply inspect it

0:20:20.960,0:20:23.480
and if your Carabiner doesn't look like

0:20:23.480,0:20:25.600
minded you should have enough safety

0:20:25.600,0:20:28.159
margin okay maybe a little note from the

0:20:28.159,0:20:30.760
future editor me what we showed is that

0:20:30.760,0:20:32.880
properly loaded carabiners are

0:20:32.880,0:20:35.440
incredibly reliable however there are

0:20:35.440,0:20:38.000
still many ways how they can fail for

0:20:38.000,0:20:40.400
example here is Daniel Woods snapping a

0:20:40.400,0:20:42.559
quick

0:20:42.559,0:20:45.200
drop so if you're new to climbing I

0:20:45.200,0:20:47.520
highly recommend to watch my blay Master

0:20:47.520,0:20:49.880
Class video on carabiners so you would

0:20:49.880,0:20:52.799
learn how they can fail so they would

0:20:52.799,0:20:55.679
not fail on you now before we go to the

0:20:55.679,0:20:57.720
bonus part of this video a couple of

0:20:57.720,0:20:59.880
thank yous first of of all thank you to

0:20:59.880,0:21:01.440
mammut they've been sponsoring my

0:21:01.440,0:21:03.159
channel for a while now which I

0:21:03.159,0:21:05.640
appreciate a lot but more importantly

0:21:05.640,0:21:07.760
it's always super interesting to visit

0:21:07.760,0:21:10.240
them to learn from them and then share

0:21:10.240,0:21:13.159
with you yay thank you and also my

0:21:13.159,0:21:16.520
visits to laba 7 and smart Factory was

0:21:16.520,0:21:18.600
super cool wow that's crazy that's

0:21:18.600,0:21:21.039
actually looks really bad I I wonder if

0:21:21.039,0:21:23.080
my vertebras are going to look like that

0:21:23.080,0:21:25.200
after so much editing so if you want to

0:21:25.200,0:21:27.520
learn more what we do links are in the

0:21:27.520,0:21:30.480
description and now bonus time now we

0:21:30.480,0:21:32.520
mentioned that such flexing for the

0:21:32.520,0:21:35.240
Carabiner was not an issue because it

0:21:35.240,0:21:37.559
was staying in the elastic deformation

0:21:37.559,0:21:40.200
limits however I was still curious to

0:21:40.200,0:21:43.039
find out what is the force that you can

0:21:43.039,0:21:45.080
pull on the Carabiner before you

0:21:45.080,0:21:47.840
permanently deform it so the plan was to

0:21:47.840,0:21:50.520
pull the carabiners to different forces

0:21:50.520,0:21:53.360
and observe the elongation so now we

0:21:53.360,0:21:56.960
pulled to 9 kons and then we relaxed

0:21:56.960,0:21:59.600
down and it came back to exactly what it

0:21:59.600,0:22:01.320
was before yeah so now we're going to

0:22:01.320,0:22:05.000
try to pull to 10 and see to 11 to 12

0:22:05.000,0:22:08.200
until we find when it starts deforming

0:22:08.200,0:22:10.000
yeah so we incrementally loaded the

0:22:10.000,0:22:12.840
carabiners to higher and higher loads

0:22:12.840,0:22:15.880
and here are the observations at around

0:22:15.880,0:22:18.440
half of the carabiner's rating we can

0:22:18.440,0:22:21.279
already see a very slight permanent

0:22:21.279,0:22:24.240
deformation but it's only about 50

0:22:24.240,0:22:26.480
microm which is not something you're

0:22:26.480,0:22:28.799
going to notice however that changes is

0:22:28.799,0:22:31.880
quick with higher forces at 70% of the

0:22:31.880,0:22:34.440
rating the formation is already about

0:22:34.440,0:22:37.240
half a millimeter which is significant

0:22:37.240,0:22:39.840
and pulling to even higher forces

0:22:39.840,0:22:43.720
Carabiner becomes very plastic mm

0:22:43.720,0:22:48.240
already it's elongated for 9 something

0:22:48.240,0:22:53.480
mm almost for a full CM before

0:22:54.240,0:22:56.600
breaking maybe like

0:22:56.600,0:23:00.520
this yeah this one is like full CM

0:23:00.520,0:23:03.480
longer this type of Carabiner as long as

0:23:03.480,0:23:07.039
you stay below 10 Kon it would always go

0:23:07.039,0:23:09.080
back to the same shape you would have no

0:23:09.080,0:23:11.600
problem so of course I got curious what

0:23:11.600,0:23:15.039
happens if you repeatedly load above 10

0:23:15.039,0:23:17.360
K yeah now we're going to pull on the

0:23:17.360,0:23:20.760
Carabiner up to 15 K go back close to

0:23:20.760,0:23:25.440
zero 15 again back to zero for yeah a

0:23:25.440,0:23:27.960
while so after the first pull the

0:23:27.960,0:23:31.000
carabiner had almost half a MM of

0:23:31.000,0:23:33.440
permanent deformation and then repeated

0:23:33.440,0:23:36.840
pulls we're slightly growing that but

0:23:36.840,0:23:40.039
less and less on every extra pull

0:23:40.039,0:23:42.440
however this is the behavior on the

0:23:42.440,0:23:45.000
relaxed state of the Carabiner when it's

0:23:45.000,0:23:47.600
not under load anymore if we look at the

0:23:47.600,0:23:49.720
top of the chart where we can see

0:23:49.720,0:23:52.559
elongation under load it is much more

0:23:52.559,0:23:54.760
interesting for the first Cycles

0:23:54.760,0:23:58.640
elongation keeps growing as well however

0:23:58.640,0:24:01.320
later it starts shrinking and this is

0:24:01.320,0:24:04.279
due to work hardening Where Metal

0:24:04.279,0:24:07.919
becomes stronger and harder but less

0:24:07.919,0:24:11.120
ductile now in theory work hardening

0:24:11.120,0:24:13.400
could lead to stress cracking and

0:24:13.400,0:24:16.320
compromised strength so to test this we

0:24:16.320,0:24:18.960
pull this Carabiner till failure while

0:24:18.960,0:24:21.440
normal elongation curve of the Carabiner

0:24:21.440,0:24:24.320
would look like this after the hardening

0:24:24.320,0:24:27.480
Cycles there was a new elastic limit and

0:24:27.480,0:24:29.919
it took more Force to deform the

0:24:29.919,0:24:33.320
Carabiner further however that had no

0:24:33.320,0:24:36.360
effect on the final breaking

0:24:36.360,0:24:38.799
strength now of course in real life

0:24:38.799,0:24:41.200
climbing situations we would never reach

0:24:41.200,0:24:44.679
those forces or that many cycles so it's

0:24:44.679,0:24:46.760
really nice to know that there is such a

0:24:46.760,0:24:49.120
huge safety margin but in case you're

0:24:49.120,0:24:51.559
rigging something where High forces are

0:24:51.559,0:24:54.440
possible then keep in mind that our

0:24:54.440,0:24:57.080
investigation just scratched the surface

0:24:57.080,0:25:00.640
also 50% of elastic limit or yield limit

0:25:00.640,0:25:04.120
that we found is for this Carabiner if

0:25:04.120,0:25:06.919
we would change the shape of it or maybe

0:25:06.919,0:25:09.399
how the metal was treated the numbers

0:25:09.399,0:25:11.640
could be different so I hope this

0:25:11.640,0:25:14.039
metallics world is as interesting for

0:25:14.039,0:25:16.120
you as it is for me and if you have any

0:25:16.120,0:25:19.120
questions put them put them to Dam

0:25:19.120,0:25:21.720
comments because I plan more videos on

0:25:21.720,0:25:25.480
this damn topic all right now since

0:25:25.480,0:25:28.840
Singularity of stupidity is coming I'm

0:25:28.840,0:25:32.399
trying my best to protect my biological

0:25:32.399,0:25:35.039
thinking apparatus and lately I've been

0:25:35.039,0:25:37.120
fighting hard against my mindless

0:25:37.120,0:25:39.559
dopamine scrolling habits and replacing

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them with habits that grow new brain

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cells like using brilliant who is also

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For Fighting Singularity of stupidity

0:26:56.520,0:26:59.039
kind of disappointing

0:26:59.039,0:27:00.960
and very nice at the same

0:27:00.960,0:27:03.960
time it's disappointing that we couldn't

0:27:03.960,0:27:07.240
show uh real damage on the car Miner

0:27:07.240,0:27:09.159
yeah but it's good and reassuring

0:27:09.159,0:27:12.000
knowing that okay we have margin there

0:27:12.000,0:27:15.200
is no big like

0:27:15.200,0:27:19.440
Bo it's just lots of broken stuff and

0:27:19.440,0:27:23.840
nothing enjoy climbing