0:00:03.280,0:00:08.240 Welcome to a master class [br]about climbing harnesses. 0:00:08.240,0:00:12.010 In this video I'm gonna explain the [br]anatomy of the climbing harness. 0:00:12.010,0:00:13.800 Including some little things like 0:00:13.800,0:00:16.695 what is this loop for [br]on the back of the harness 0:00:16.695,0:00:22.400 or this one on this harness [br]it even says zero kilonewtons. 0:00:22.400,0:00:26.800 Or why there is these elastic straps [br]on the back of the harness. 0:00:26.800,0:00:30.000 And some of them are even detachable. 0:00:30.000,0:00:35.500 So all of that plus my recommendations [br]on how to choose a climbing harness. 0:00:35.500,0:00:36.880 Correct Fit of a Harness 0:00:36.880,0:00:41.600 A typical climbing harness will have [br]a waist loop and two leg loops. 0:00:41.600,0:00:44.330 So put it in like you're [br]putting your pants. 0:00:48.000,0:00:52.609 Make sure that your waist loop is [br]above your hip bones. 0:00:52.609,0:00:53.429 Boom! 0:00:53.429,0:00:56.235 You don't need to be crazy [br]when tightening your waist belt. 0:00:56.235,0:00:59.770 It only needs to be tight enough[br]so it would be not possible 0:00:59.770,0:01:02.669 to pull down the waist loop [br]through your hip bones. 0:01:02.669,0:01:06.799 And that's in case you flip upside down 0:01:06.799,0:01:10.240 you won't slide out of your harness. 0:01:10.240,0:01:11.520 Whoa! 0:01:11.520,0:01:13.680 It's not comfortable to hang upside down. 0:01:13.680,0:01:16.240 And also put the tail of the waist belt 0:01:16.240,0:01:19.580 to its designed place,[br]every harness has a one. 0:01:19.580,0:01:22.076 It prevents the buckle [br]from undoing itself. 0:01:22.076,0:01:27.620 And also you don't need stuff dangling [br]around you when you're climbing. 0:01:27.620,0:01:31.680 So put it in its place. 0:01:31.759,0:01:36.640 And that's it. Since my harness has only[br]one adjustable buckle I'm ready to climb. 0:01:36.640,0:01:41.520 While other harnesses might have [br]multiple buckles on a waist belt. 0:01:41.520,0:01:43.589 So you tighten both of them. 0:01:43.589,0:01:47.576 And this is useful in case you're [br]planning to put on some size 0:01:47.576,0:01:49.870 That's when you're climbing[br]in colder conditions 0:01:49.870,0:01:51.730 and you need many layers of clothing. 0:01:51.730,0:01:53.040 So two buckles allow 0:01:53.040,0:01:55.520 you to adjust the center of the harness 0:01:55.520,0:01:57.290 a little bit better than one. 0:01:57.290,0:01:59.509 And same goes for the leg loops. 0:01:59.509,0:02:02.719 Harnesses that are designed [br]more for alpine situations 0:02:02.719,0:02:06.090 where you might want to put [br]multiple layers of clothing 0:02:06.090,0:02:08.720 will have adjustable leg loops. 0:02:08.720,0:02:11.360 But since I do mostly sport climbing and 0:02:11.360,0:02:14.239 I wear only single layer of pants or 0:02:14.239,0:02:16.080 sometimes no pants 0:02:16.080,0:02:20.560 I don't need all of that adjustability[br]and single buckle is enough. 0:02:20.560,0:02:23.599 And it also saves[br]some weight on the harness. 0:02:23.599,0:02:26.100 So the fit of the harness. 0:02:26.100,0:02:28.520 For leg loops they shouldn't be loose. 0:02:28.520,0:02:30.660 But they shouldn't be very tight as well. 0:02:30.660,0:02:34.239 You should be able to put a hand or two 0:02:34.239,0:02:36.890 between your leg and the harness. 0:02:36.890,0:02:39.760 Because you will be moving[br]your legs a lot. 0:02:39.760,0:02:43.230 And you don't want your harness[br]to limit your movement. 0:02:43.230,0:02:45.200 Now for the waist as i said 0:02:45.200,0:02:49.640 not too tight but you should [br]not be able to pull it down your waist. 0:02:49.640,0:02:52.319 If you pull the waist belt all the way 0:02:52.319,0:02:54.380 and there is no more to pull, 0:02:54.380,0:02:56.140 your harness is too big for you. 0:02:56.140,0:03:01.370 The ideal sizing would be when [br]waste belt paddings (these things) 0:03:01.370,0:03:04.965 gently touch each other[br]or slightly overlap. 0:03:04.965,0:03:07.680 And you still have some room to pull more 0:03:07.680,0:03:12.560 in case you lost some layers 0:03:12.560,0:03:14.100 Belay loop. 0:03:14.100,0:03:16.820 This is the strongest point [br]on your harness. 0:03:16.820,0:03:20.930 It's required to be at least [br]15 kilonewtons strong. 0:03:20.930,0:03:24.140 But most manufacturers [br]will make it even stronger. 0:03:24.140,0:03:27.490 So used properly it's impossible to break. 0:03:27.490,0:03:30.200 However if you're doing[br]something you shouldn't 0:03:30.200,0:03:32.239 you might get surprises. 0:03:32.239,0:03:34.959 And I've talked already about that story 0:03:34.959,0:03:39.309 in this video about slings.[br]So if you're curious watch that. 0:03:39.309,0:03:40.839 As the name suggests, 0:03:40.839,0:03:46.319 the belay loop is used for [br]attaching your belay device. 0:03:46.319,0:03:51.046 And in general most of the metal climbing [br]equipment will go to your belay loop. 0:03:51.046,0:03:53.303 So carabiners - belay loop. 0:03:53.303,0:03:55.840 Tie-in loops. 0:03:55.840,0:04:00.110 Again as the name suggests[br]they are used for tying in your rope. 0:04:00.110,0:04:04.430 And also for attaching your [br]soft climbing equipment like slings. 0:04:04.430,0:04:09.070 Tie-in points usually will have extra [br]protection, especially the bottom one. 0:04:09.070,0:04:12.400 Because that sees a lot of rope friction. 0:04:12.400,0:04:15.270 And that point will [br]wear down the quickest. 0:04:15.270,0:04:17.699 For example this is [br]my old climbing harness. 0:04:17.699,0:04:21.960 And the bottom tie-in point,[br]as you can see, is completely worn down 0:04:21.960,0:04:25.036 to the point where [br]I can see the orange inside. 0:04:25.036,0:04:28.589 So this is really not good[br]to climb anymore with 0:04:28.589,0:04:32.720 I really like what Mammut did here[br]by putting this extra plastic. 0:04:32.720,0:04:36.127 It should greatly extend [br]the lifespan of this harness. 0:04:36.127,0:04:37.730 Gear loops. 0:04:37.730,0:04:40.175 That's where you are gonna[br]carry your quickdraws 0:04:40.175,0:04:41.960 and other climbing equipment. 0:04:41.960,0:04:46.610 I like to store my quickdraws[br]from short to long front to back. 0:04:46.610,0:04:49.256 So if i need a long quickdraw,[br]I'm reaching on the back. 0:04:49.256,0:04:51.890 If i need a short quickdraw, [br]I'm reaching on the front. 0:04:51.890,0:04:53.600 Gear loops are not load bearing 0:04:53.600,0:04:56.620 meaning you should not attach[br]yourself to the gear loop. 0:04:56.620,0:04:59.906 On some harnesses[br]they might hold only five kilograms. 0:04:59.906,0:05:02.479 So don't do this! 0:05:02.479,0:05:06.820 In such case it's better to grab [br]the person through entire waist loop. 0:05:06.820,0:05:07.880 Like so. 0:05:07.880,0:05:08.880 Haul Loop 0:05:08.880,0:05:11.300 The little loop [br]on the back of your harness 0:05:11.300,0:05:14.040 is called the haul loop or haul loop. 0:05:14.040,0:05:15.680 I don't know how to pronounce it. 0:05:15.680,0:05:18.320 Basically it's used to carrying 0:05:18.320,0:05:21.510 extra rope or some other extra load. 0:05:21.510,0:05:25.980 And on some of the harnesses it can be[br]stronger than gear loops. 0:05:25.980,0:05:29.810 For example on this Mammut harness[br]it's rated for 2 kilonewtons. 0:05:29.810,0:05:34.420 While on this Black Diamond [br]harness it says 0 kilonewtons. 0:05:34.420,0:05:37.700 So I don't know [br]what it's supposed to mean. 0:05:37.700,0:05:41.970 Probably do not attach anything [br]significantly heavy. 0:05:41.970,0:05:46.530 In any case this is [br]rarely used in sport climbing. 0:05:46.530,0:05:49.090 But you can use it as an extra gear loop 0:05:49.090,0:05:52.909 and just attach something that [br]you're not planning to use very often. 0:05:52.909,0:05:55.520 Because it's going to be [br]at the back of your harness. 0:05:55.520,0:05:59.520 And this little guy is just [br]an extra feature on this harness 0:05:59.520,0:06:01.409 where you can clip your chalk bag. 0:06:01.409,0:06:04.000 Elastic Straps.[br]And why you Need to Adjust them! 0:06:04.000,0:06:08.639 OK, so what about these elastics[br]at the back of your harness? 0:06:08.639,0:06:11.680 Most of the people[br]actually ignore these straps. 0:06:11.680,0:06:15.260 But what they do is that[br]they allow you to adjust 0:06:15.260,0:06:19.079 how high your leg loops [br]sit on your leg. 0:06:19.079,0:06:23.310 So if i would loosen up[br]those straps completely, 0:06:23.310,0:06:29.120 now this lets the leg loops[br]to fall lower on the legs. 0:06:29.120,0:06:36.579 Now if I hang on my harness [br]I'm actually being pulled backwards 0:06:36.579,0:06:38.970 much more than before. 0:06:38.970,0:06:43.759 And that's simply because the leg loops [br]are lower on the leg. 0:06:43.759,0:06:45.770 And it's pulling the legs like this. 0:06:45.770,0:06:50.129 I would adjust my leg loops[br]to the position where I like them, 0:06:50.129,0:06:55.759 and then adjust the elastic strap to keep[br]the leg loops in that position, 0:06:55.759,0:06:58.880 and try to hang. 0:06:59.520,0:07:03.899 Now I'm sitting way more straight [br]and this is much more comfortable. 0:07:03.899,0:07:07.440 So by adjusting [br]these straps on the back, 0:07:07.440,0:07:11.940 you can drastically change the way [br]you sit in your harness. 0:07:11.940,0:07:15.440 I'm actually surprised [br]how comfortable this harness is. 0:07:15.440,0:07:20.400 And it's not because Mammut[br]is sponsoring this video, which is true. 0:07:20.400,0:07:23.579 It's actually very comfortable.[br]I like it. 0:07:23.579,0:07:28.160 Now on some of the harnesses[br]you can completely detach this. 0:07:28.160,0:07:30.320 And that's for you ladies. 0:07:30.320,0:07:33.199 If you want to do your business, 0:07:33.199,0:07:35.520 and you don't want to remove your harness, 0:07:35.520,0:07:36.673 now you can. 0:07:36.673,0:07:38.520 How to Choose a Harness? 0:07:38.520,0:07:39.759 Good! 0:07:39.759,0:07:42.090 So how do you choose a harness? 0:07:42.090,0:07:47.280 When there is so many different brands[br]and types and models and whatever. 0:07:47.280,0:07:50.670 Actually if you know what [br]type of climbing you're gonna do 0:07:50.670,0:07:52.680 choosing a harness is pretty easy. 0:07:52.680,0:07:55.759 Let's say I'm looking for [br]a sport harness for myself. 0:07:55.759,0:07:59.469 My favorite method is [br]to go to a climbing shop and ask: 0:07:59.469,0:08:02.040 What harnesses do you have [br]for sport climbing? 0:08:02.040,0:08:06.330 And suddenly out of huge amount[br]of harnesses in the climbing shop 0:08:06.330,0:08:09.280 you will get maybe five to try. 0:08:09.280,0:08:14.440 So you dismiss the ones that[br]look ugly to you, and try the rest. 0:08:14.440,0:08:16.904 Any decent climbing shop will have a place 0:08:16.904,0:08:19.130 where you can hang[br]in your harness to test it. 0:08:19.130,0:08:21.339 And that's actually [br]the best way to understand 0:08:21.339,0:08:26.170 if this harness is actually [br]comfortable for your body 0:08:26.170,0:08:28.729 Harnesses that are designed[br]for sport climbing 0:08:28.729,0:08:31.440 typically will be a bit lower profile, 0:08:31.440,0:08:35.559 they will have a bit less padding,[br]but they will be lighter. 0:08:35.559,0:08:38.949 However manufacturers try really hard 0:08:38.949,0:08:43.209 to make even such harnesses[br]as comfortable as possible. 0:08:43.209,0:08:48.320 So as long as you're not planning to sit[br]in your harness for really really long, 0:08:48.320,0:08:51.560 it should be good for[br]any type of climbing you're gonna do. 0:08:51.560,0:08:55.670 So single pitches, multi pitches, [br]all of that should be totally fine. 0:08:55.670,0:09:00.899 Now if you are planning to be hanging [br]in your harness for really really long, 0:09:00.899,0:09:03.980 hen you should look for [br]a harness with a bit higher profile 0:09:03.980,0:09:05.510 and a bit more padding. 0:09:05.510,0:09:07.820 And that should make [br]sitting in that harness 0:09:07.820,0:09:09.740 a little bit more comfortable. 0:09:09.740,0:09:13.210 So once you identify the harnesses [br]that are comfortable for you, 0:09:13.210,0:09:15.079 then you can look into other features. 0:09:15.079,0:09:17.650 For example, how do you like the [br]closing mechanism, 0:09:17.650,0:09:25.040 does it go smooth for you [br]compare that with another harness. 0:09:26.800,0:09:28.959 Okay that was not intended 0:09:28.959,0:09:31.120 but 0:09:31.120,0:09:32.880 that's how it is. 0:09:32.880,0:09:36.240 I don't know why,[br]what the fuck is happening. 0:09:36.240,0:09:39.360 Or which shape of [br]the gear loops you prefer. 0:09:39.360,0:09:43.119 For example on this harness it's[br]angled a little bit towards the front. 0:09:43.119,0:09:46.699 So when you clip your gear[br]it kind of falls forward, 0:09:46.699,0:09:50.399 as if it would be feeding[br]the quickdraws for you as you climb. 0:09:50.399,0:09:52.320 While most of the climbing harnesses 0:09:52.320,0:09:54.580 will have at least four gear loops, 0:09:54.580,0:09:58.640 Some of them might have just two.[br]This saves weight. 0:09:58.640,0:10:02.840 And it's mostly designed[br]for single pitch sport climbing. 0:10:02.840,0:10:06.400 And now, a lot of companies started [br]to come up with a hybrid solution 0:10:06.400,0:10:10.530 where you have two very big [br]sturdy gear loops for your quickdraws, 0:10:10.530,0:10:13.189 but then you have extra thin gear loops 0:10:13.189,0:10:15.609 for any extra gear[br]you might want to carry. 0:10:15.609,0:10:20.320 For example, on a multi-pitch[br]I think this is really cool and smart. 0:10:20.320,0:10:24.089 You save a little bit of weight[br]but you don't lose functionality 0:10:24.089,0:10:26.559 If you are a hardcore elite climber, 0:10:26.559,0:10:29.120 maybe you want to check[br]the weight of the harness. 0:10:29.120,0:10:32.827 Maybe these few grams are gonna[br]change something for you. 0:10:32.827,0:10:36.110 And then any other extra features[br]that the harness might have 0:10:36.110,0:10:38.640 like indicator technology which 0:10:38.640,0:10:41.590 shows you when you[br]wear down your belay loop 0:10:41.590,0:10:44.320 or tie-in points too much 0:10:44.320,0:10:47.760 or extra protection on the tie-in point. 0:10:47.760,0:10:50.640 And then in the end just consult[br]with your wallet. 0:10:50.640,0:10:52.676 And it's easy. You have a harness. 0:10:52.676,0:10:54.560 Can You Wear Opposite Gender Harness? 0:10:54.560,0:10:56.149 Now a bonus question. 0:10:56.149,0:10:59.013 Can you wear the opposite gender harness? 0:10:59.013,0:11:01.279 The short answer is yes. 0:11:01.279,0:11:03.680 Typically a harness designed for females 0:11:03.680,0:11:06.000 will have a little bit bigger leg loops 0:11:06.000,0:11:08.390 and a little bit narrower waist loop. 0:11:08.390,0:11:12.320 And the waist loop will be sitting[br]slightly higher compared to male version. 0:11:12.320,0:11:14.909 If that fits your body, enjoy. 0:11:14.909,0:11:18.292 Some harnesses like this one[br]is designed to be unisex. 0:11:18.292,0:11:20.659 So there is no difference at all. 0:11:20.659,0:11:22.480 Lifespan of a Harness 0:11:22.480,0:11:26.169 Normally a harness should last you [br]between two and five years, 0:11:26.169,0:11:29.440 maybe seven years, [br]if you don't use it very often. 0:11:29.440,0:11:31.440 While manufacturers will say that if you 0:11:31.440,0:11:33.490 buy a harness and never use it and 0:11:33.490,0:11:36.320 put it in ideal conditions in your closet, 0:11:36.320,0:11:39.159 you should still retire it after 10 years. 0:11:39.159,0:11:44.560 And as mentioned before the tie-in points[br]on the harness tend to wear down quickest, 0:11:44.560,0:11:46.490 and then maybe the belay loop. 0:11:46.490,0:11:50.950 So it's a good idea to keep an eye on[br]these parts of the harness specifically, 0:11:50.950,0:11:53.840 but also the rest of your harness. 0:11:53.840,0:11:56.322 All right, I hope that [br]was helpful for you 0:11:56.322,0:11:58.100 If you are planning to buy a harness, 0:11:58.100,0:12:00.800 I will put some recommendations,[br]in the description, 0:12:00.800,0:12:03.120 but keep in mind that all manufacturers 0:12:03.120,0:12:07.300 are competing really hard[br]to make even better harness. 0:12:07.300,0:12:10.399 So whatever you choose is [br]probably gonna be fine. 0:12:10.399,0:12:13.279 And also really big thank you for Mammut. 0:12:13.279,0:12:17.240 And for everyone who is supporting me [br]to produce these videos. 0:12:17.240,0:12:19.440 It makes a huge difference. 0:12:19.440,0:12:22.800 And if you want to contribute[br]here is a link. 0:12:22.800,0:12:29.240 And if not then see you in the next video.[br]And enjoy climbing!