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36C3 preroll music
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Herald Angel Noujoum: Hello and
welcome to our next talk,
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Why 3D printing clothes is NOT the future.
Short question to the audience:
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Who of you has already 3D printed anything?
Please raise your hand.
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That's what I thought, I estimate that's about
80 % of the audience in this hall.
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I am not surprised, it is the topic of this talk,
that's why you are here.
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Second question: Who of you
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has already tried 3D printing clothes?
Please raise your hand again.
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I see four people.
So, how did it go?
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One person indicates
that it worked out well,
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the others are showing hand gestures
of "not that well".
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Who of all the people that have
already 3D printed
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has thought about printing clothes?
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Ok, about 10 people have thought
about that.
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Our next speaker, Rebekka, will tell you
why it might not be the best idea
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to 3D print clothes.
On the internet
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and especially Twitter, Rebekka is known
by her nickname Kurfuerstin
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and she is a clothing technician. Her
research includes
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traditional apparel production, she has
worked in a fashion company,
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at the theater and at a tv show.
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Also, she is researching innovative
techniques such as 3D printing
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and virtual clothing simulation,
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meaning software that realistically
simulates clothes
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on a virtual avatar.
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Have fun with the talk ,
I hope you will learn a lot
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and please welcome Rebekka
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with a round of applause.
Thank you.
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applause
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Speaker Rebekka/Kurfuerstin: I just
received some mail really quick,
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but that won't stop me from giving
my talk. Welcome,
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nice to see you all here, in this hall
and on the live stream and...
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additional mail, okay, a lot happening
on this stage. I will maybe read that later,
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but it is great to know that the
post office system works!
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The title of my talk is "Why 3D printing
clothes is NOT the future".
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It will be about the properties of
3D printed clothes and
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what would need to happen in order
for it to be a serious alternative
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for everyday wear. I was just introduced
as a clothing technician.
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In case you don't know what this strange
combination of words means,
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clothes and technology,
a short explanation.
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When clothes are made, at one side,
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you have the design, the idea.
But the realization, the production,
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happens somewhere else entirely
and by some other person.
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In a simplified way, a person creates
the design for a dress
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and says: I designed this dress.
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So they have a nice picture from which
you can learn some information, but not much.
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And they go to a factory and say:
please make this dress.
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The production will kindly ask:
where is the table of information?
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Because the production site wants to
have all the information about the dress.
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And the designer then asks: what?
And the production then asks: what?
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And that would be the end of it.
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Because the factory wants to know,
which fabric do we need for the dress,
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and how much? Which sizes will be made,
and how many dresses in which sizes?
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Which machines do we need for that, what
text will be on the care instruction labels
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and what will be the exact position of the
labels on the side seam in cm?
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All those questions cannot be answered
by the illustration of the dress.
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And that is where clothing technology comes in,
as the intersection between design and production.
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It's about the technical feasibility and
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what needs to be done
to manufacture clothes.
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It's about materials, quality,
prices and locations.
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Where should the production take place,
and when?
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All these questions need answers
and that is the responsibility
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of clothing technicians.
And this kind of reality check,
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the perspective of feasibility, is the perspective
I also chose to examine 3D printing.
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If you search for the words "3D print" and
"clothes", you will get headlines like these.
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For example: 3D printing will bring
flexibility into the fashion industry.
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Or: The fashion of the future. Or: Will the
street wear of the future be 3D printed?
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Or: Can 3D printing fundamentally
change the fashion industry?
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A few years ago, the headlines were
even more sensational.
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They were predicting that by 2020, we
would print a sweater in the morning,
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melt it down in the evening and then
print a new one the next day.
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Nowadays, the predictions have
become a bit more careful,
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at least with a question mark at the end.
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But even from these headlines,
you get the sense that something
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will fundamentally change the
fashion industry.
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There is also the hope of
a sustainable production
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with the argument, that the procedure
of 3D printing is sustainable.
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Sustainability is a major topic
in the fashion industry.
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The question is if 3D printing
might be the solution.
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Clothes have already been 3D printed,
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it's not even that new or unrealistic.
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There are entire 3D printed collections and
I will show some examples now.
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In Israel, Danit Peleg printed her entire
final collection of five outfits.
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In Israel, Danit Peleg printed her entire
final collection of five outfits.
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One example is the two piece outfit on
the right, a top and a floor length skirt.
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The skirt has been printed using
only desktop printers,
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meaning that it consists of
modules of A4 size
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that have been connected afterwards.
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It is flexibel, because it was printed
with a flexible filament,
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but also because it made up
of a zigzag structure
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that allows for it to pull on it.
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If you pull it up, it bounces up and down.
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The jacket is the first
3D printed ready-to-wear
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article of clothing that
you can order online,
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in limited edition of 100 pieces.
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It costs 1500 $.
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You can choose the color and
some writing on the back
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and then the jacket will be
printed in 100 hours.
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Another example is from the
design collective Nervous System,
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who have developed the Kinematics System.
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It consists of triangles
that are connected by hinges,
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making the whole structure flexible.
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But it is made of a hard material.
It can move, but it is not elastic
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and it rattles a bit when you move.
They also developed an opaque version.
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The dress on the right is based
on the same triangle structure,
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but there are some kind of
petals on top of it.
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So the dress is opaque.
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A third example is the Pangolin Dress
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which is also made of a structure
of interlocked modules
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that can move on top of
and into each other,
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thus making the structure flexible.
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You can move in the dress and the
dress adjusts to your movements.
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One of the people working on it is
Travis Fitch, a designer working in New York.
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I contacted Travis and said: I am a
clothing technician, I love numbers.
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How do you know if a newly developed
structure is suitable for a dress?
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How do you know if the elasticity
is high enough
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to use it in a piece of clothing?
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Do you do laboratory tests?
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And he answered, well, I pull at it and then
I either say it is okay or not.
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So the clothing technician in me
came through and said,
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well how about numbers? So I offered
to test some of his structures,
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to conduct some laboratory experiments
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in order to examine how the properties
can be expressed in numbers and units.
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Those were only three examples.
There are many more
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on catwalks and in fashion shows. It is clear
that those examples are not everyday wear.
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They are special made-to-order products,
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it takes months to create them,
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they consist of 300 different pieces
that need to be assembled.
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But the headlines about fundamentally
changing the fashion industry
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are about everyday wear.
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Custom-made items on a catwalk
do not change the whole industry.
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Something needs to happen
before that applies to everyday wear.
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That is why I ask, what kind of properties
do clothes need to have
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in order to be everyday wear,
meaning clothes
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that we can wear every day and
for every occasion?
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First of all, clothes need
to be comfortable.
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There are four aspects of wearing comfort.
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First, the psychological wearing comfort
which is about fashion trends,
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societal norms and individuality.
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The fact that I am standing here
in a t-shirt and a hoodie
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is particularly apt for this congress.
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On another business conference I might
have worn something different.
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And that people are driving around
in onesies and goose costumes
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is also very specific for this group right here.
laughter
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What I mean by this is that people feel
comfortable wearing this in this specific context
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and might not feel at ease
in another context,
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although the clothes themselves
have not changed.
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That is the psychological wearing comfort.
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The next-to-skin-comfort is about
the feeling of something on the skin.
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Surfaces can be soft or scratchy,
they can also cause allergies.
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So it is about the direct contact
on the skin.
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The physiological wearing comfort is very
important as well. It's about the climate control
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of the body and about how clothes can keep
us warm but also allow for moisture to evaporate.
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The human body has this amazing system
of protecting us from overheating.
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We start to sweat and
the moisture evaporates.
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But the evaporation has to happen
through the fabric of our clothes.
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Some clothes allow for better evaporation
than others.
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This aspect is incredibly important for our
comfort when wearing clothes.
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The fourth aspect is the
ergonomical wearing comfort
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which is about freedom of movement
and that is what I examined in detail.
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Freedom of movement in clothes is
achieved by the fit of a piece of clothing,
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mainly meaning how tight it is on the body.
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Secondly, it is achieved by the elasticity
of the materials used.
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This is very important because there are parts
of our body where we need 50% stretching,
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for example at our knees and elbows.
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If you move your arm like this, then the
clothes need to allow this movement
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without tearing apart.
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Without elasticity,
the sleeve would be destroyed
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or would change its form and create buckles.
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If we have a very tight sleeve
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made from a material that is not elastic
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the sleeve at the elbow would take
the shape of our elbow.
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So we need a material with
the capability to rebound.
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After we have moved the arm like this,
the sleeve at the elbow
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will go back to its original shape.
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So if a material is not elastic,
it is not that suitable for clothes.
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It is possible, but then it needs to be
compensated by the cut of the clothes,
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in that case, it cannot be too tight.
If a piece of clothing is loose fit,
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the elasticity of the fabric
is not that important.
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I wanted to examine the influencing
factors on the elastic properties
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of 3D printed structures in order
to actively influence the elasticity.
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This could be used
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to enhance the wearing comfort
of 3D printed clothes
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and thereby get us a bit closer to
3D printed everyday wear.
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Elasticity in textile structures, fabrics,
is achieved by two aspects.
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First, a material itself can be elastic.
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In fabrics, this is mostly elastane.
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Elastane can be stretched 300%
and will return to its original length.
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It is used in a majority of clothes,
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mostly in the ratio 98% cotton and 2% elastane.
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2% are enough to make a shirt
elastic enough to easily put it on
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while at the same time being tight
and not starting to buckle after wearing.
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The second possibility is structural elasticity.
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In clothing, this is mainly achieved
by creating knitwear.
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If you pull at knitwear,
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the loops will change their shape.
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In this manner,
you can create an elastic structure,
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even with materials with low elasticity.
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For example, cotton fibers are
not very elastic. But if you create a knitwear
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made of cotton threads,
the fabric can be very flexible and elastic.
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In 3D printed structures,
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an elastic material can be used as well,
for example TPU.
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TPU is short for thermoplastic polyurethane.
Polyurethane is a primary part of elastane, too.
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So TPU and elastane have very similar
properties based on their chemical composition.
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Structural elasticity is also possible.
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It is possible to print meshes,
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but you can also create different shapes
like curves, arches, helices or springs.
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In short, shapes that you can
compress or pull at,
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so that you will first pull at the structure
before pulling at the material itself.
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However, the design depends
on the printing method. There are several
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different methods and not all of them are
equally suited to create certain shapes.
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For my research, I focused on two of them.
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First, the FLM,
short for fused layer modeling,
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sometimes also called FDM,
short for fused deposition modeling.
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You heat a thermoplastic filament
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and push it through a nozzle
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The nozzle then lays the strand of material
on the printing bed.
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All layers on top of each other
make the object.
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If an object has an overhang
like the shape on the left,
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you need support structures.
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In every layer, the extruder will also
build the supporting columns.
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When the object is finished,
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the support structures can be removed.
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This is not a problem for hard materials,
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you can easily break it off
and sand the surface.
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But for elastic materials,
it's a different situation.
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If you pull at it, it will not break off,
but simply stretch.
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So if you want to print elastic shapes
with overhangs or interlockings,
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this method is not recommended.
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The support structures
cannot be broken off,
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they would have to be cut off
with scissors,
231
00:17:38,380 --> 00:17:41,309
so that would take a long time.
232
00:17:41,309 --> 00:17:43,090
Interjection: Water soluble support structures!
233
00:17:43,090 --> 00:17:47,345
Speaker: Yes, good idea, unfortunately
that does not work for TPU yet.
234
00:17:47,345 --> 00:17:49,890
Waterbased support structures
are usually made of PVA.
235
00:17:49,890 --> 00:17:54,392
you can remove them with water afterwards.
236
00:17:54,392 --> 00:18:01,730
But the melting temperatures
of PVA and TPU do not match.
237
00:18:01,730 --> 00:18:06,880
TPU requires a very high temperature,
I printed with 215°C.
238
00:18:06,880 --> 00:18:10,564
At this temeprature, PVA is already decomposing,
its melting temperature is lower.
239
00:18:10,564 --> 00:18:16,960
So it is a good idea, but at the moment
it does not work yet.
240
00:18:16,960 --> 00:18:21,390
I am sure that something will be developed
241
00:18:21,390 --> 00:18:26,720
to solve this problem, though.
242
00:18:26,720 --> 00:18:30,410
The other method is SLS,
short for selective laser sintering.
243
00:18:30,410 --> 00:18:34,500
An entire layer of powder is laid
on the build plate.
244
00:18:34,500 --> 00:18:40,391
A laser melts the fine grain powder in order
245
00:18:40,391 --> 00:18:44,370
to create the desired shape layer by layer.
In this case,
246
00:18:44,370 --> 00:18:50,001
the powder itself is the support structure,
so you do not need to print
247
00:18:50,001 --> 00:18:56,480
supporting columns. In the end, the entire
printer is filled with a block of powder
248
00:18:56,480 --> 00:19:00,794
and somewhere in there,
the object can be found.
249
00:19:00,794 --> 00:19:06,970
The powder is removed and can be reused.
250
00:19:06,970 --> 00:19:13,570
For my research,
I examined several structures.
251
00:19:13,570 --> 00:19:17,929
The ones on the left and in the middle
are created from powder.
252
00:19:17,929 --> 00:19:25,380
So it was possible to create some height
and chain-like shapes.
253
00:19:25,380 --> 00:19:32,400
I had different sizes.
254
00:19:32,400 --> 00:19:36,909
The smaller size is much more flexible,
255
00:19:36,909 --> 00:19:43,070
you can easily move it and fold it.
256
00:19:43,070 --> 00:19:46,470
The modules can be shifted
into each other.
257
00:19:46,470 --> 00:19:51,239
You can compress it and pull at it
and the structure is very flexible.
258
00:19:51,239 --> 00:19:57,667
As I said, for the other 3D printing method,
the possibilities in shape were limited.
259
00:19:57,667 --> 00:20:01,850
This structure is based on a pattern of rhombs
that was extruded.
260
00:20:01,850 --> 00:20:08,780
If you pull at it, the shape
of the rhomb changes
261
00:20:08,780 --> 00:20:13,264
before the material itself is strained.
262
00:20:13,264 --> 00:20:16,620
Again, I had different variations in size and height
263
00:20:16,620 --> 00:20:21,600
in order to examine the influencing factors
on the elastic properties.
264
00:20:21,600 --> 00:20:26,279
in order to examine the influencing factors
on the elastic properties.
265
00:20:26,279 --> 00:20:30,489
How can you examine
elastic properties at all?
266
00:20:30,489 --> 00:20:36,215
How can you examine
elastic properties at all?
267
00:20:36,215 --> 00:20:41,211
With a so-called tensile test.
268
00:20:41,211 --> 00:20:47,370
You don't test a piece of clothing,
you only test a fabric swatch.
269
00:20:47,370 --> 00:20:53,060
The swatch is clamped into a tensile test machine
which then pulls with constant velocity.
270
00:20:53,060 --> 00:20:57,501
The corresponding software automatically
creates a diagram like the one on the right.
271
00:20:57,501 --> 00:21:03,480
It shows the elongation in %,
272
00:21:03,480 --> 00:21:08,250
meaning how long the fabric swatch
has been stretched,
273
00:21:08,250 --> 00:21:12,230
and on the other axis
the tensile strength in N,
274
00:21:12,230 --> 00:21:18,090
how much strength is needed in order to
achieve this elongation of the fabric swatch.
275
00:21:18,090 --> 00:21:23,370
This diagram shows the elongation,
the elasticity and the tensile strength.
276
00:21:23,370 --> 00:21:26,820
I need to stress that elongation and
elasticity is not the same.
277
00:21:26,820 --> 00:21:33,160
You can stretch something and it
might have just gotten longer.
278
00:21:33,160 --> 00:21:37,490
If I stretch something
279
00:21:37,490 --> 00:21:41,179
and it returns to its original length,
it is elastic.
280
00:21:41,179 --> 00:21:45,730
So that is a different property,
281
00:21:45,730 --> 00:21:51,190
which you can also gather
from the stress-elongation-diagram.
282
00:21:51,190 --> 00:21:57,030
I tested all of my structures this way.
283
00:21:57,030 --> 00:22:01,110
Of course, you need to test several specimen
in order to generate average values.
284
00:22:01,110 --> 00:22:05,656
So I had my numbers and units.
285
00:22:05,656 --> 00:22:09,650
But what do I do with that?
286
00:22:09,650 --> 00:22:17,059
I still need to know if these numbers are
good or bad. There is a recommendation
287
00:22:17,059 --> 00:22:22,799
by the Dialog Textil Bekleidung in cooperation
with the German Fashion Mode Verband,
288
00:22:22,799 --> 00:22:27,860
It is not a standard or a law,
clothes do not have to have these properties.
289
00:22:27,860 --> 00:22:32,350
But it is a recommendation, what stretch properties
clothing should approximately have
290
00:22:32,350 --> 00:22:37,640
and what kind of forces
they should withstand.
291
00:22:37,640 --> 00:22:41,370
This is a small extract.
It is divided by products,
292
00:22:41,370 --> 00:22:46,020
so trousers and skirts have different
specifications opposed to underwear.
293
00:22:46,020 --> 00:22:50,299
If it is far from the body, meaning loose fit,
lower tensile strengths suffice.
294
00:22:50,299 --> 00:22:54,514
If a piece of clothing is loose fit,
295
00:22:54,514 --> 00:23:00,610
the stretching properties
are not that important.
296
00:23:00,610 --> 00:23:03,270
So I compared these numbers to mine
and I found
297
00:23:03,270 --> 00:23:08,039
that the elongations of my structures
were great.
298
00:23:08,039 --> 00:23:13,591
But the maximum force was not reached.
299
00:23:13,591 --> 00:23:18,040
So I can stretch my structures just fine,
300
00:23:18,040 --> 00:23:24,340
but I do not need a lot of force to tear
them apart and that is a bad result.
301
00:23:24,340 --> 00:23:28,850
If I bend my elbow
and the sleeve is destroyed,
302
00:23:28,850 --> 00:23:32,520
I do not want to use this structure
for clothes.
303
00:23:32,520 --> 00:23:35,870
So the tensile strength of the
3D printed structures is lower
304
00:23:35,870 --> 00:23:41,180
than the recommended
properties for clothes.
305
00:23:41,180 --> 00:23:45,279
I also wanted to examine the influencing
factors on the elastic properties.
306
00:23:45,279 --> 00:23:51,090
From my results, I could see that the size of
the modules influences the properties.
307
00:23:51,090 --> 00:23:56,929
The larger sizes show higher values
than the smaller variations.
308
00:23:56,929 --> 00:24:01,864
However, the larger variations do
not feel and move like fabric.
309
00:24:01,864 --> 00:24:07,018
The smaller variations are
more fabric-like,
310
00:24:07,018 --> 00:24:11,115
but they didn't show very good
tensile strengths.
311
00:24:11,115 --> 00:24:15,240
Aside from that, there was another
influencing factor: the slicing software.
312
00:24:15,240 --> 00:24:23,300
The slicing software has two main tasks.
313
00:24:23,300 --> 00:24:29,299
Firstly, it slices the object into layers. Secondly,
it transfers the information to the 3D printer,
314
00:24:29,299 --> 00:24:34,590
where the extruder has to be in order to
create the shape of each layer.
315
00:24:34,590 --> 00:24:39,210
For example, if you want to print a vase
like the one on the left, the first layer
316
00:24:39,210 --> 00:24:43,789
would be filled completeley, because we want
to fill the vase with water and it should not leak.
317
00:24:43,789 --> 00:24:48,460
The path of the extruder could look like this,
it would go in rows
318
00:24:48,460 --> 00:24:52,100
from one side to the other in order to
completely fill the circle.
319
00:24:52,100 --> 00:24:55,600
The second layer would be a ring
and the extruder might
320
00:24:55,600 --> 00:25:00,970
take a path like this, but a different
path is also possible.
321
00:25:00,970 --> 00:25:07,121
There are many different slicing programs
with many setting options.
322
00:25:07,121 --> 00:25:12,539
I took a closer look and I found
that the extruder
323
00:25:12,539 --> 00:25:17,820
took a very specific path for
my rhomb structures.
324
00:25:17,820 --> 00:25:23,450
It went to the intersection and then
turned around. Under the microscope,
325
00:25:23,450 --> 00:25:27,620
you can see that this is exactly the place
where the structure was torn apart.
326
00:25:27,620 --> 00:25:33,190
The extruder did not cross the
intersection even once.
327
00:25:33,190 --> 00:25:37,190
At this point, the strands of material
are only connected when a new,
328
00:25:37,190 --> 00:25:40,989
hot strand melts a little bit into
the other, already cold one.
329
00:25:40,989 --> 00:25:45,309
But due to the fact that the extruder
did not cross the intersection, it created
330
00:25:45,309 --> 00:25:52,930
a predetermined breaking point. That
is exactly where the structure was torn apart.
331
00:25:52,930 --> 00:25:57,970
In another variation that was based on the
same shape, the slicing software decided
332
00:25:57,970 --> 00:26:01,960
something else. The extruder took the path
to the bending point of the rhomb.
333
00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:07,490
Consequently, this is the point
where it was torn apart.
334
00:26:07,490 --> 00:26:11,870
That is why the test samples look
differently after the tensile test.
335
00:26:11,870 --> 00:26:18,850
That also explains the low tensile
strength of the structures.
336
00:26:18,850 --> 00:26:21,932
The tensile test machine did not pull at the
material as much as at these connection points
337
00:26:21,932 --> 00:26:28,340
and depending on how strong these are,
338
00:26:28,340 --> 00:26:33,549
the structure can be torn apart easily.
339
00:26:33,549 --> 00:26:37,680
This means that the method itself
limits the tensile strength.
340
00:26:37,680 --> 00:26:42,809
Now, I tested eight different structures,
eight different variations.
341
00:26:42,809 --> 00:26:46,309
You might ask now how I came to the
conclusion that 3D printing clothes
342
00:26:46,309 --> 00:26:53,075
is not recommended in general.
343
00:26:53,075 --> 00:26:58,750
Maybe a different structure would show
a higher tensile strength.
344
00:26:58,750 --> 00:27:03,610
Yes, maybe. But the method itself creates
limitations concerning the properties.
345
00:27:03,610 --> 00:27:09,900
We have to go deeper and look
at the molecules.
346
00:27:09,900 --> 00:27:16,581
Textile fibers naturally have a
very high tensile strength.
347
00:27:16,581 --> 00:27:24,290
On the inside, natural fibers like cotton,
wool or linen show a regular
348
00:27:24,290 --> 00:27:30,241
arrangement of molecular chains.
349
00:27:30,241 --> 00:27:36,300
There are amorphous parts
and crystalline parts.
350
00:27:36,300 --> 00:27:42,159
The strands that you can see on the
right depict molecular chains.
351
00:27:42,159 --> 00:27:46,620
The amorphous parts,
where the molecules are
352
00:27:46,620 --> 00:27:51,000
tangled like a plate of spaghetti,
are not stable.
353
00:27:51,000 --> 00:27:57,630
The crystalline parts, where they show a
regular arrangement, are stable.
354
00:27:57,630 --> 00:28:03,862
Natural fibers show a high degree of
crystalline parts which translates
355
00:28:03,862 --> 00:28:09,040
to a high tensile strength. Fibers naturally
show higher tensile strengths
356
00:28:09,040 --> 00:28:13,856
than my 3D printed structures
could ever have.
357
00:28:13,856 --> 00:28:17,510
And for synthetic fibers, there are
measures we can take to even influence
358
00:28:17,510 --> 00:28:24,130
and increase the tensile strength.
359
00:28:24,130 --> 00:28:30,542
There are several ways to spin a fiber,
at least one of them is very similar to 3D printing.
360
00:28:30,542 --> 00:28:37,400
You melt synthetic material and press it
through a nozzle.
361
00:28:37,400 --> 00:28:40,978
The extruded strand is the fiber.
362
00:28:40,978 --> 00:28:45,320
The difference is that you have several
possibilities to influence the property
363
00:28:45,320 --> 00:28:48,823
of the extruded strand or fiber.
364
00:28:48,823 --> 00:28:53,880
The degree of crystallinity depends on
the rate of controlled cooling.
365
00:28:53,880 --> 00:28:59,750
The slower a fiber cools off the more
time do the molecular chains have
366
00:28:59,750 --> 00:29:04,007
to arrange themselves regularly.
367
00:29:04,007 --> 00:29:07,850
That is why the spinning chambers
are really hot
368
00:29:07,850 --> 00:29:12,690
in order to allow for a very slow rate
of controlled cooling
369
00:29:12,690 --> 00:29:18,740
so that the fibers show high degrees of
crystallinity, resulting in high tensile strengths.
370
00:29:18,740 --> 00:29:22,500
We do not have this opportunity
in 3D printing.
371
00:29:22,500 --> 00:29:26,779
We can use a heated build plate. But that
372
00:29:26,779 --> 00:29:30,880
only influences the first few layers.
373
00:29:30,880 --> 00:29:35,299
Besides, we need the printed strands to
374
00:29:35,299 --> 00:29:40,291
cool off quickly so that they keep their shape.
375
00:29:40,291 --> 00:29:46,809
We can only print the next layer
376
00:29:46,809 --> 00:29:49,179
if the layer underneath
has already hardened.
377
00:29:49,179 --> 00:29:54,159
We cannot keep a constant high temperature
like we can in the spinning chamber.
378
00:29:54,159 --> 00:29:58,470
The SLS method allows
for better conditions
379
00:29:58,470 --> 00:30:03,223
concerning the tensile strength
380
00:30:03,223 --> 00:30:07,150
and the structures did show better values.
381
00:30:07,150 --> 00:30:11,409
We have a second possibility to increase the
tensile strength of synthetic fibers
382
00:30:11,409 --> 00:30:15,271
which is by stretching them
after spinning.
383
00:30:15,271 --> 00:30:21,020
The fibers are guided through cylinders
and subjected to tensile forces.
384
00:30:21,020 --> 00:30:31,460
This increases the degree of
crystallinity even more.
385
00:30:31,460 --> 00:30:36,380
The molecules are forced
to align even more.
386
00:30:36,380 --> 00:30:40,179
This decreases the fiber diameter and
makes the fiber more fine, softer
387
00:30:40,179 --> 00:30:45,840
and at the same time stronger.
388
00:30:45,840 --> 00:30:50,700
That explains why textile fibers have
much higher tensile strengths
389
00:30:50,700 --> 00:30:56,309
while at the same time being much finer
than anything you can 3D print at the moment.
390
00:30:56,309 --> 00:30:59,977
Furthermore, textile fibers have the advantageous
capability of warming us by isolating air.
391
00:30:59,977 --> 00:31:03,700
Every little chamber that can entrap air
turns a fabric into a warming structure
392
00:31:03,700 --> 00:31:09,100
when worn on the body.
Fabrics consist of threads
393
00:31:09,100 --> 00:31:13,834
and threads consist of fibers,
394
00:31:13,834 --> 00:31:18,170
as you can see on this microscope picture.
395
00:31:18,170 --> 00:31:21,559
It's not a picture of a carpet,
it's fabric
396
00:31:21,559 --> 00:31:29,139
and the little single fibers would not be
visible with the naked eye.
397
00:31:29,139 --> 00:31:33,779
The gaps between the fibers
isolate air.
398
00:31:33,779 --> 00:31:38,000
At the same time, the gaps are important
for the transportation of moisture.
399
00:31:38,000 --> 00:31:41,130
Sweat can evaporate and go through the fabric.
In conclusion,
400
00:31:41,130 --> 00:31:46,220
fabrics can warm us and at the same time
protect us against overheating.
401
00:31:46,220 --> 00:31:51,350
At the moment, we cannot 3D print such fine
miniature fibers. We are still quite limited
402
00:31:51,350 --> 00:31:58,429
when it comes to fineness. We cannot efficiently
3D print chambers to entrap air
403
00:31:58,429 --> 00:32:04,059
like the ones we can find in fabrics
made of textile fibers.
404
00:32:04,059 --> 00:32:08,970
Some things cannot be done yet
in 3D printing. But what can we do
405
00:32:08,970 --> 00:32:15,220
in 3D printing instead? We have an immense
freedom of design that can be applied
406
00:32:15,220 --> 00:32:20,679
mostly in shoes and accessories,
407
00:32:20,679 --> 00:32:24,649
for example bracelets, necklaces
or glasses.
408
00:32:24,649 --> 00:32:29,450
The benefits can be used for costumes.
409
00:32:29,450 --> 00:32:34,998
For example, in the movie "Black Panther",
several crowns were 3D printed.
410
00:32:34,998 --> 00:32:39,520
Theoretically, the process is sustainable,
411
00:32:39,520 --> 00:32:44,076
just because it is additive manufacturing.
412
00:32:44,076 --> 00:32:48,059
Material is only built where it is needed
for the desired shape.
413
00:32:48,059 --> 00:32:53,909
This is in stark contrast to the
production of clothes.
414
00:32:53,909 --> 00:32:58,620
When you cut the fabric, you can achieve
a utilization ratio of maybe 90%.
415
00:32:58,620 --> 00:33:03,262
Just because pattern pieces
have many different shapes,
416
00:33:03,262 --> 00:33:07,280
10% of the fabric is thrown away.
417
00:33:07,280 --> 00:33:15,017
3D printing is more sustainable
in this aspect.
418
00:33:15,017 --> 00:33:17,899
Also, the materials can be reused.
419
00:33:17,899 --> 00:33:20,870
Recycling is another problem
in the fashion industry.
420
00:33:20,870 --> 00:33:24,440
So it is a good thing that you can
reuse the powder after printing.
421
00:33:24,440 --> 00:33:30,270
3D printing is also very suitable for
made-to-order production.
422
00:33:30,270 --> 00:33:34,530
In the fashion industry, made-to-order
items always lead to high costs.
423
00:33:34,530 --> 00:33:38,909
Also, it is possible to create different
material properties in the same product.
424
00:33:38,909 --> 00:33:42,764
When I have the shoulder
425
00:33:42,764 --> 00:33:47,279
and want it to be a bit more firm,
426
00:33:47,279 --> 00:33:50,797
I can already prepare that in the
3D model. I can decide
427
00:33:50,797 --> 00:33:54,620
to create more layers. If I created the same
piece of clothing in fabric,
428
00:33:54,620 --> 00:33:58,320
I would need to have a seam, I would reinforce
it with another fabric
429
00:33:58,320 --> 00:34:02,440
or another layer of fabric. Using a 3D printer,
this could happen in the same step.
430
00:34:02,440 --> 00:34:07,050
Theoretically, it is also possible to
integrate additional functions
431
00:34:07,050 --> 00:34:13,290
like cables, LED or sensors.
432
00:34:13,290 --> 00:34:18,440
There is still a question mark
behind that.
433
00:34:18,440 --> 00:34:22,530
First of all, this would not
be everyday wear,
434
00:34:22,530 --> 00:34:28,790
and secondly, this is not
state of the art yet.
435
00:34:28,790 --> 00:34:33,170
Another benefit might be to create the
whole garment in one step.
436
00:34:33,170 --> 00:34:36,769
Right now, a fabric is created out of
threads out of textile fibers.
437
00:34:36,769 --> 00:34:39,330
Then, the fabric needs to be cut, the
pieces need to be sewn together,
438
00:34:39,330 --> 00:34:42,070
maybe it is dyed after that.
Different processes,
439
00:34:42,070 --> 00:34:46,370
executed at different locations.
With 3D printing,
440
00:34:46,370 --> 00:34:52,090
everything could happen in the same step.
441
00:34:52,090 --> 00:34:56,118
But only if the garment can fit into
the build volume of a printer.
442
00:34:56,118 --> 00:35:00,230
If we print A4 sized pieces and
assemble them afterwards,
443
00:35:00,230 --> 00:35:04,550
we are still in the same situation of
having to connect many pieces.
444
00:35:04,550 --> 00:35:11,230
The software developed by Nervous System
is a smarter solution.
445
00:35:11,230 --> 00:35:15,286
The software digitally folds the dress.
The dress is then printed in the folded state,
446
00:35:15,286 --> 00:35:20,030
significantly reducing
the needed build volume.
447
00:35:20,030 --> 00:35:25,960
The dress is hidden somewhere
in the block of powder.
448
00:35:25,960 --> 00:35:29,810
The powder is removed,
a bit like in archeology,
449
00:35:29,810 --> 00:35:34,094
the dress will get cleaned off
and opened.
450
00:35:34,094 --> 00:35:37,411
This is a good option to really
use the benefits of 3D printing.
451
00:35:37,411 --> 00:35:46,520
The disadvantages or challenges are
452
00:35:46,520 --> 00:35:51,190
the insufficient tensile strength,
resulting from the process itself
453
00:35:51,190 --> 00:35:56,180
and there is not a lot we can
do about it. We are still very limited
454
00:35:56,180 --> 00:36:03,340
in terms of fineness. The standard nozzle
diameter is 0.4 millimeters.
455
00:36:03,340 --> 00:36:08,695
Fiber diameters are more
in the micrometer range.
456
00:36:08,695 --> 00:36:13,556
That is a significant difference. The fineness
is very important for the next-to-skin-comfort,
457
00:36:13,556 --> 00:36:17,920
for the transportation of moisture and for
the capability to warm us.
458
00:36:17,920 --> 00:36:24,720
This is fundamental and without it,
the aspects of wearing comfort
459
00:36:24,720 --> 00:36:31,258
cannot be guaranteed
when we 3D print textile structures.
460
00:36:31,258 --> 00:36:36,119
Time and costs are still
quite problematic in 3D printing.
461
00:36:36,119 --> 00:36:40,650
It takes af long time
and it is very expensive.
462
00:36:40,650 --> 00:36:45,095
Again, this is not suitable for
everyday wear, only for individual pieces.
463
00:36:45,095 --> 00:36:48,014
We also still have to discuss
care instructions.
464
00:36:48,014 --> 00:36:51,378
Can you wash a 3D printed garment
at all? If I wear a piece of clothing every day,
465
00:36:51,378 --> 00:36:54,589
I want to be able to wash it.
466
00:36:54,589 --> 00:36:58,082
When we talk about garments,
we also need to talk about fastenings,
467
00:36:58,082 --> 00:37:02,144
you need to somehow get inside
the piece of clothing.
468
00:37:02,144 --> 00:37:06,251
So, zippers, buttons, hooks, eyelets,
all of this needs to be thought of
469
00:37:06,251 --> 00:37:12,750
if we want to print
everything in one piece.
470
00:37:12,750 --> 00:37:17,090
In conclusion, the construction of fabrics
made from threads made from fibers
471
00:37:17,090 --> 00:37:23,170
is still unbeatable in regards of
wearing comfort.
472
00:37:23,170 --> 00:37:28,379
There are not yet applicable solutions
473
00:37:28,379 --> 00:37:40,370
to imitate the properties in 3D printing.
474
00:37:40,370 --> 00:37:44,478
At the current state of the art,
3D printed clothes are not only not the future,
475
00:37:44,478 --> 00:37:47,257
they aren't even the present.
Because the present means
476
00:37:47,257 --> 00:37:50,930
fabrics made of textile fibers and that
works really well for our wearing comfort.
477
00:37:50,930 --> 00:37:55,430
3D printed structure cannot
provide that yet.
478
00:37:55,430 --> 00:37:58,660
That does not mean that we
should stop the research.
479
00:37:58,660 --> 00:38:01,260
Whoever said before that they had
success when printing clothes,
480
00:38:01,260 --> 00:38:04,760
I am very interested to hear about that.
Maybe there are some aspects
481
00:38:04,760 --> 00:38:11,587
that I have not thought about.
But we should not forget
482
00:38:11,587 --> 00:38:17,460
the basic function of clothes. The 3D
printed clothes that I showed in the beginning,
483
00:38:17,460 --> 00:38:21,800
those are amazing artworks, I love
them and I want to see more of them.
484
00:38:21,800 --> 00:38:24,820
But I want to remind everyone that
clothes should warm us,
485
00:38:24,820 --> 00:38:28,170
that in general, it should be opaque
and that the climate exchange
486
00:38:28,170 --> 00:38:33,840
and the transportation of moisture has
to be guaranteed. I find it a bit difficult
487
00:38:33,840 --> 00:38:38,370
to put so much hope on 3D printing
488
00:38:38,370 --> 00:38:44,030
to fundamentally change
the whole fashion industry.
489
00:38:44,030 --> 00:38:49,371
Because the fashion industry has
a lot of serious problems,
490
00:38:49,371 --> 00:38:53,580
ecological problems,
491
00:38:53,580 --> 00:38:57,250
but also social and societal problems.
492
00:38:57,250 --> 00:39:01,229
But I don't think we should simply hope
to develop new technologies
493
00:39:01,229 --> 00:39:04,440
and tell us that the sustainability problem
can be solved by 3D printing
494
00:39:04,440 --> 00:39:09,850
all of our clothes. Please conduct
further research.
495
00:39:09,850 --> 00:39:15,830
But please don't forget the basic
functions of clothes and do not think
496
00:39:15,830 --> 00:39:20,323
that a new technology will solve all the
problems of the fashion industry.
497
00:39:20,323 --> 00:39:27,140
I advise everyone
to revolutionize the fashion industry.
498
00:39:27,140 --> 00:39:32,650
But please do not think that 3D printing
is the universal solution for that.
499
00:39:32,650 --> 00:39:36,782
And now I am finished with my
presentation and I thank you all for listening.
500
00:39:36,782 --> 00:39:47,155
applause
501
00:39:47,155 --> 00:39:49,912
Herald Angel Noujoum: Yes, thank you,
that was quite a precision landing, I'm afraid
502
00:39:49,912 --> 00:39:52,830
we don't have time left for questions, I am sorry
to everyone flocking to the microphones right now.
503
00:39:52,830 --> 00:39:57,330
But you can see here where you can
talk to Rebekka,
504
00:39:57,330 --> 00:40:01,409
you can find her and ask her questions
on Twitter under @Kurfuerstin.
505
00:40:01,409 --> 00:40:04,331
You can also talk to her right now after
the talk. Maybe not right here,
506
00:40:04,331 --> 00:40:07,330
but somewhere in the back.
She also needs to read her post cards.
507
00:40:07,330 --> 00:40:10,780
I'm sure there will be time
and the possibility
508
00:40:10,780 --> 00:40:14,600
to talk to her or each other about
3D printing and 3D printed clothes.
509
00:40:14,600 --> 00:40:17,556
Please give another round of applause.
510
00:40:17,556 --> 00:40:18,670
applause
511
00:40:18,670 --> 00:40:22,280
postroll music
512
00:40:22,280 --> 00:40:30,234
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