in this video we are gonna learn the
fastest way of tying your rope
into the harness using the figure of
eight
knot and this method is great
because it will always always end up as
a perfect
figure of eight like so
ta-da it will never have any overlapping
strands
and it will be in the version which is
easy to untie
if you missed this video i showed you
that there are two figure of eight
knots two versions of the same knot that
look very similar but they load
completely different during the fall
and one of them is easier to untie after
a hard fall
and then i received a lot of questions
but which version is
stronger so you will see that
a little bit later but first let's learn
how to tie the good version
in case you're left-handed you might
want to
mirror everything what i will be
explaining so when i say
right hand you use your other right hand
okay so let's begin grab the rope with
your right hand
and extend it to the side and with the
left hand you will be
measuring the amount of rope that you
will need this measurement
will eliminate the issue of not having
enough rope to finish the knot
or having too much of the rope where you
end up with very very long tail
and this is bad because during the climb
you might actually accidentally grab it
and try to clip it to deal with this
problem
you will see people tying a stopper knot
or
a double fisherman's knot or some
even call this a safety knot and you
have to know that
this knot adds absolutely no safety to
figure of eight
figure of it does not need any extra
backups it's a safe knot by itself
and then the second problem with this is
that it gets in a way
if you are clipping close to yourself so
if the quick draw is here you will grab
the rope
and then the knot kind of gets stuck in
the quick drill
if you are unlucky so it's better to
eliminate this
tail completely and have a tail which is
short
but not shorter than 10 centimeters
which is
about the width of your palm so in my
case
i have one and a half now where to
measure
depends on two things the thickness of
your rope and of course your body size
so personally for me with 9.5
millimeters rope i measure around till
this point
if the rope is thicker i go more
and if the rope is slimmer of course i
go less
so just tie a couple of figure of eights
and then you will find out
what works for you okay now you will
need to do a little bit of multitasking
at the same time when your right arm
goes to the side
you need your left arm in a way but it's
palm
facing the same direction and the thumb
is facing down
so then you put your rope on top of your
thumb
and make a little loop like so with the
index finger
so you extend you measure the rope
and then the next step is to twist the
wrist
like so and then you have this loop
where you put your tail through and pull
up
you twist and twist
and then put the tail through the top
loop
at this point don't let the knot drop
like so this is bad because you will
lose the measurement
that you did instead you need to
hold the loop with your left hand
and pull the tail up so slow mo
extend measure
the waist to waist and the tail goes
through the top and full speed version
extend twist twist
so if you did everything correctly you
will have something like this
the figure of eight sign but if you get
this
then you didn't twist it enough times
okay
and now we pass the rope through the
harness most of the harnesses have three
loops one two three
the leg loop the waist loop and the
middle loop which connects these two
and the middle loop is called belay loop
so you want your rope to go through
leg loop and then waist loop like so
now a fun question do you think this
will hold me or not
it already connects to these two right
so it should hold
so the answer is yes it will hold you
but this is why you don't want to do
that
you use your belay loop for attaching
many things
like your sling and a belay device so as
you can see this might get really
crowded and
uncomfortable to work with and the
second reason is because
leg loop and waist loop has extra
protection
to protect from the rope wearing the
harness quickly
okay then another question can you do
this
where you tying only into the leg loop
it's connected to everything it has
extra protection right
so in this case the answer is no because
when you take a fall
your legs will be loaded more than the
waist
and you will have a tendency to flip
upside
down so ideally you want your rope to go
through leg loop
and the waist loop and probably i heard
it some expert feelings right here
that will say that going bottom up is
incorrect
what we will say that you need to go top
down
like so and the only reason why they say
this
is because if you go bottom up and
somehow you manage to miss the waist
loop
you will end up only on the bottom loop
which is dangerous
where on the contrary if you go top down
and you somehow miss a hole you will end
up with the top
loop the waist loop which is okay so if
you're a person who can easily miss a
hole
then better go top down but for the rest
of you
bottom up is more convenient and that's
what
most of the people do a little pro tip
while putting the rope through the
harness you have your belay loop kind of
in your way
so you will be choosing whether you want
your rope to go on this side
or that side and actually going this
side
is easier then you have your belay loop
on the right of the row
you can also go that way but then you
have to take
with your left hand on your right side
which is not so convenient
but it works then you would have your
belay loop on the left of the rope
but i prefer going to this side because
it's faster
next you need to trace the original
figure of 8
with your tail and this is where the
most people mess up and
actually you can blame a lot of climbing
coaches and
video tutorials for this because all
they say
is to follow the figure of 8 with your
tail
and you will be fine but there are so
many ways to do this follow through
and most of these ways lead to a really
funky knot
so instead just follow what i will be
doing very precisely
and you will have no problems first of
all make sure that this line
goes to the right side if i would flip
the knot
now this line goes to the left so you
want your knot to look like this
then you put your tail in between of
these two strands
so you kind of make a little bit of
space here and push
your tail through at this point you need
to
pull the knot close to your harness and
this is very very important
if you don't do this you will end up
with the big loop
in front of your knot and this is
dangerous because it can get stuck
somewhere on the rock or you can even
accidentally clip
into the quick draw into it and i've
seen this happen
okay and then you continue tracing the
original figure of eight
by putting your tail on top of it
then it goes into this hole
like so then it goes around
and finishes in this hole
like so and the only thing left is to
tighten the knot so i like to grab
all the nut loosely with my left hand
take the tail with the right hand
and pull and push at the same time like
so
and then switch right hand to another
tail
and repeat the process done if you want
the knot to be even tighter you can grab
this pull left hand switches
pull right hand switches pull
left hand switches pull this will make
the knot even tighter
but usually this and switch this is
enough
so if you did everything correctly you
will have one two
three four five parallel strands on both
sides of the knot
and none of these strands are crossing
each other and
if you messed up with your original
measurement and your tail is slightly
too long
you can still tie a stopper knot by
going
around and putting the tail through
itself like so
and make sure that it's close to the
figure of eight
so this is the end result but as i
already said
this knot doesn't add any safety it's
just to manage the rope from dangling
around so it's much better if you have
something like this
where this tail is short and you don't
even need this knot to begin with
and so repeat this process multiple
times
and then you will develop a muscle
memory where you can do it blindfolded
just in case you will get stuck in dark
and need to tie your figure of fate
which will probably never ever happen
boom
like a ninja and like a true ninja you
should
know what you should not do with figure
of eight figure of
eight is designed to be pulled along
this axis only
never clip and pull like this this is
called a cross
loading and it will make the knot to
slip and do all funky things
and it might even undo
bonus time in the beginning of the video
i told you
that there are two figure of eight knots
or two versions of the same knot
and one of them is easier to untie but
the question is which one is stronger
so let's find out load line goes
on the top here
load line goes in the middle so let's
find out which one is stronger
so do you think that i'm so crazy to do
this
well yeah
no no no i don't want to risk some
projectiles flying into my van
instead i called my good buddy ryan from
youtube channel
how not to highline where he makes
things go kaboom
and welcome to my garage where we have a
slack snap machine it's a big giant
rectangle let me show you how it works
and so after he snapped a bunch of knots
the results were that
all of them were way stronger than
any climbing fall that you might
encounter so
don't worry about that but if you want
to find out
which version is stronger
watch ryan's video now for real go check
out this guy's channel he does a lot of
cool stuff he breaks a lot of climbing
equipment
and he even pulls out the cams and
trends out of
real rocks to show how much we hold and
if you like what he is doing don't
forget to support him and same don't
forget to support me
because you like my videos right
that's it done ah now i'm gonna steal
the ryan's outro
it's that simple if you're going to take
20 minutes and try to perfect
your knot at the gym and you're holding
up other parties tell them about our
videos
and share it with them so they don't
hate you nearly as much and they
understand why you're holding their
party up instead of you smashing your
figure eights with hammers trying to
untie them because you did it wrong
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see ya