WEBVTT

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in this video we are gonna learn the

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fastest way of tying your rope

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into the harness using the figure of

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eight

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knot and this method is great

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because it will always always end up as

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a perfect

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figure of eight like so

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ta-da it will never have any overlapping

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strands

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and it will be in the version which is

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easy to untie

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if you missed this video i showed you

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that there are two figure of eight

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knots two versions of the same knot that

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look very similar but they load

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completely different during the fall

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and one of them is easier to untie after

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a hard fall

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and then i received a lot of questions

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but which version is

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stronger so you will see that

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a little bit later but first let's learn

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how to tie the good version

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in case you're left-handed you might

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want to

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mirror everything what i will be

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explaining so when i say

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right hand you use your other right hand

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okay so let's begin grab the rope with

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your right hand

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and extend it to the side and with the

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left hand you will be

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measuring the amount of rope that you

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will need this measurement

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will eliminate the issue of not having

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enough rope to finish the knot

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or having too much of the rope where you

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end up with very very long tail

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and this is bad because during the climb

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you might actually accidentally grab it

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and try to clip it to deal with this

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problem

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you will see people tying a stopper knot

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or

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a double fisherman's knot or some

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even call this a safety knot and you

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have to know that

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this knot adds absolutely no safety to

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figure of eight

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figure of it does not need any extra

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backups it's a safe knot by itself

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and then the second problem with this is

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that it gets in a way

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if you are clipping close to yourself so

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if the quick draw is here you will grab

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the rope

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and then the knot kind of gets stuck in

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the quick drill

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if you are unlucky so it's better to

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eliminate this

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tail completely and have a tail which is

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short

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but not shorter than 10 centimeters

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which is

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about the width of your palm so in my

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case

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i have one and a half now where to

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measure

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depends on two things the thickness of

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your rope and of course your body size

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so personally for me with 9.5

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millimeters rope i measure around till

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this point

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if the rope is thicker i go more

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and if the rope is slimmer of course i

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go less

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so just tie a couple of figure of eights

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and then you will find out

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what works for you okay now you will

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need to do a little bit of multitasking

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at the same time when your right arm

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goes to the side

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you need your left arm in a way but it's

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palm

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facing the same direction and the thumb

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is facing down

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so then you put your rope on top of your

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thumb

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and make a little loop like so with the

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index finger

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so you extend you measure the rope

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and then the next step is to twist the

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wrist

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like so and then you have this loop

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where you put your tail through and pull

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up

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you twist and twist

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and then put the tail through the top

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loop

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at this point don't let the knot drop

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like so this is bad because you will

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lose the measurement

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that you did instead you need to

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hold the loop with your left hand

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and pull the tail up so slow mo

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extend measure

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the waist to waist and the tail goes

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through the top and full speed version

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extend twist twist

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so if you did everything correctly you

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will have something like this

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the figure of eight sign but if you get

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this

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then you didn't twist it enough times

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okay

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and now we pass the rope through the

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harness most of the harnesses have three

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loops one two three

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the leg loop the waist loop and the

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middle loop which connects these two

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and the middle loop is called belay loop

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so you want your rope to go through

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leg loop and then waist loop like so

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now a fun question do you think this

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will hold me or not

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it already connects to these two right

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so it should hold

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so the answer is yes it will hold you

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but this is why you don't want to do

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that

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you use your belay loop for attaching

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many things

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like your sling and a belay device so as

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you can see this might get really

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crowded and

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uncomfortable to work with and the

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second reason is because

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leg loop and waist loop has extra

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protection

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to protect from the rope wearing the

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harness quickly

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okay then another question can you do

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this

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where you tying only into the leg loop

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it's connected to everything it has

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extra protection right

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so in this case the answer is no because

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when you take a fall

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your legs will be loaded more than the

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waist

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and you will have a tendency to flip

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upside

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down so ideally you want your rope to go

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through leg loop

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and the waist loop and probably i heard

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it some expert feelings right here

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that will say that going bottom up is

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incorrect

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what we will say that you need to go top

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down

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like so and the only reason why they say

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this

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is because if you go bottom up and

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somehow you manage to miss the waist

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loop

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you will end up only on the bottom loop

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which is dangerous

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where on the contrary if you go top down

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and you somehow miss a hole you will end

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up with the top

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loop the waist loop which is okay so if

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you're a person who can easily miss a

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hole

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then better go top down but for the rest

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of you

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bottom up is more convenient and that's

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what

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most of the people do a little pro tip

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while putting the rope through the

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harness you have your belay loop kind of

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in your way

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so you will be choosing whether you want

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your rope to go on this side

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or that side and actually going this

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side

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is easier then you have your belay loop

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on the right of the row

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you can also go that way but then you

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have to take

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with your left hand on your right side

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which is not so convenient

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but it works then you would have your

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belay loop on the left of the rope

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but i prefer going to this side because

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it's faster

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next you need to trace the original

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figure of 8

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with your tail and this is where the

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most people mess up and

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actually you can blame a lot of climbing

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coaches and

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video tutorials for this because all

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they say

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is to follow the figure of 8 with your

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tail

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and you will be fine but there are so

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many ways to do this follow through

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and most of these ways lead to a really

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funky knot

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so instead just follow what i will be

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doing very precisely

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and you will have no problems first of

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all make sure that this line

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goes to the right side if i would flip

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the knot

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now this line goes to the left so you

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want your knot to look like this

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then you put your tail in between of

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these two strands

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so you kind of make a little bit of

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space here and push

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your tail through at this point you need

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to

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pull the knot close to your harness and

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this is very very important

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if you don't do this you will end up

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with the big loop

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in front of your knot and this is

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dangerous because it can get stuck

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somewhere on the rock or you can even

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accidentally clip

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into the quick draw into it and i've

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seen this happen

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okay and then you continue tracing the

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original figure of eight

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by putting your tail on top of it

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then it goes into this hole

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like so then it goes around

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and finishes in this hole

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like so and the only thing left is to

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tighten the knot so i like to grab

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all the nut loosely with my left hand

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take the tail with the right hand

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and pull and push at the same time like

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so

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and then switch right hand to another

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tail

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and repeat the process done if you want

00:09:05.120 --> 00:09:07.440
the knot to be even tighter you can grab

00:09:07.440 --> 00:09:11.440
this pull left hand switches

00:09:11.440 --> 00:09:15.360
pull right hand switches pull

00:09:15.360 --> 00:09:17.680
left hand switches pull this will make

00:09:17.680 --> 00:09:19.279
the knot even tighter

00:09:19.279 --> 00:09:22.320
but usually this and switch this is

00:09:22.320 --> 00:09:23.279
enough

00:09:23.279 --> 00:09:25.120
so if you did everything correctly you

00:09:25.120 --> 00:09:26.800
will have one two

00:09:26.800 --> 00:09:29.920
three four five parallel strands on both

00:09:29.920 --> 00:09:31.279
sides of the knot

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and none of these strands are crossing

00:09:33.519 --> 00:09:34.480
each other and

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if you messed up with your original

00:09:36.320 --> 00:09:38.640
measurement and your tail is slightly

00:09:38.640 --> 00:09:39.600
too long

00:09:39.600 --> 00:09:42.080
you can still tie a stopper knot by

00:09:42.080 --> 00:09:42.640
going

00:09:42.640 --> 00:09:47.200
around and putting the tail through

00:09:47.200 --> 00:09:51.120
itself like so

00:09:51.120 --> 00:09:53.040
and make sure that it's close to the

00:09:53.040 --> 00:09:54.480
figure of eight

00:09:54.480 --> 00:09:57.360
so this is the end result but as i

00:09:57.360 --> 00:09:58.240
already said

00:09:58.240 --> 00:10:00.959
this knot doesn't add any safety it's

00:10:00.959 --> 00:10:03.200
just to manage the rope from dangling

00:10:03.200 --> 00:10:05.680
around so it's much better if you have

00:10:05.680 --> 00:10:07.279
something like this

00:10:07.279 --> 00:10:09.519
where this tail is short and you don't

00:10:09.519 --> 00:10:11.920
even need this knot to begin with

00:10:11.920 --> 00:10:14.560
and so repeat this process multiple

00:10:14.560 --> 00:10:15.440
times

00:10:15.440 --> 00:10:17.120
and then you will develop a muscle

00:10:17.120 --> 00:10:21.600
memory where you can do it blindfolded

00:10:22.000 --> 00:10:24.800
just in case you will get stuck in dark

00:10:24.800 --> 00:10:26.640
and need to tie your figure of fate

00:10:26.640 --> 00:10:31.920
which will probably never ever happen

00:10:31.920 --> 00:10:33.040
boom

00:10:33.040 --> 00:10:35.760
like a ninja and like a true ninja you

00:10:35.760 --> 00:10:36.160
should

00:10:36.160 --> 00:10:38.240
know what you should not do with figure

00:10:38.240 --> 00:10:39.440
of eight figure of

00:10:39.440 --> 00:10:41.279
eight is designed to be pulled along

00:10:41.279 --> 00:10:43.040
this axis only

00:10:43.040 --> 00:10:46.160
never clip and pull like this this is

00:10:46.160 --> 00:10:47.040
called a cross

00:10:47.040 --> 00:10:49.279
loading and it will make the knot to

00:10:49.279 --> 00:10:51.519
slip and do all funky things

00:10:51.519 --> 00:10:54.880
and it might even undo

00:10:55.120 --> 00:10:58.160
bonus time in the beginning of the video

00:10:58.160 --> 00:10:58.959
i told you

00:10:58.959 --> 00:11:01.200
that there are two figure of eight knots

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or two versions of the same knot

00:11:03.680 --> 00:11:06.720
and one of them is easier to untie but

00:11:06.720 --> 00:11:10.079
the question is which one is stronger

00:11:10.079 --> 00:11:13.120
so let's find out load line goes

00:11:13.120 --> 00:11:16.160
on the top here

00:11:16.160 --> 00:11:19.200
load line goes in the middle so let's

00:11:19.200 --> 00:11:29.839
find out which one is stronger

00:11:33.760 --> 00:11:36.000
so do you think that i'm so crazy to do

00:11:36.000 --> 00:11:38.160
this

00:11:38.160 --> 00:11:42.720
well yeah

00:11:42.720 --> 00:11:44.720
no no no i don't want to risk some

00:11:44.720 --> 00:11:46.880
projectiles flying into my van

00:11:46.880 --> 00:11:49.600
instead i called my good buddy ryan from

00:11:49.600 --> 00:11:50.560
youtube channel

00:11:50.560 --> 00:11:53.200
how not to highline where he makes

00:11:53.200 --> 00:11:54.959
things go kaboom

00:11:54.959 --> 00:11:57.200
and welcome to my garage where we have a

00:11:57.200 --> 00:11:58.959
slack snap machine it's a big giant

00:11:58.959 --> 00:12:02.720
rectangle let me show you how it works

00:12:04.639 --> 00:12:07.600
and so after he snapped a bunch of knots

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the results were that

00:12:08.959 --> 00:12:12.160
all of them were way stronger than

00:12:12.160 --> 00:12:14.160
any climbing fall that you might

00:12:14.160 --> 00:12:15.600
encounter so

00:12:15.600 --> 00:12:18.160
don't worry about that but if you want

00:12:18.160 --> 00:12:19.040
to find out

00:12:19.040 --> 00:12:22.160
which version is stronger

00:12:22.160 --> 00:12:24.959
watch ryan's video now for real go check

00:12:24.959 --> 00:12:27.040
out this guy's channel he does a lot of

00:12:27.040 --> 00:12:29.040
cool stuff he breaks a lot of climbing

00:12:29.040 --> 00:12:29.839
equipment

00:12:29.839 --> 00:12:32.079
and he even pulls out the cams and

00:12:32.079 --> 00:12:33.120
trends out of

00:12:33.120 --> 00:12:36.240
real rocks to show how much we hold and

00:12:36.240 --> 00:12:38.000
if you like what he is doing don't

00:12:38.000 --> 00:12:41.040
forget to support him and same don't

00:12:41.040 --> 00:12:42.800
forget to support me

00:12:42.800 --> 00:12:45.839
because you like my videos right

00:12:45.839 --> 00:12:47.839
that's it done ah now i'm gonna steal

00:12:47.839 --> 00:12:50.000
the ryan's outro

00:12:50.000 --> 00:12:52.160
it's that simple if you're going to take

00:12:52.160 --> 00:12:53.519
20 minutes and try to perfect

00:12:53.519 --> 00:12:55.519
your knot at the gym and you're holding

00:12:55.519 --> 00:12:57.279
up other parties tell them about our

00:12:57.279 --> 00:12:57.760
videos

00:12:57.760 --> 00:12:59.120
and share it with them so they don't

00:12:59.120 --> 00:13:00.800
hate you nearly as much and they

00:13:00.800 --> 00:13:02.160
understand why you're holding their

00:13:02.160 --> 00:13:04.079
party up instead of you smashing your

00:13:04.079 --> 00:13:05.600
figure eights with hammers trying to

00:13:05.600 --> 00:13:07.360
untie them because you did it wrong

00:13:07.360 --> 00:13:10.480
smash that like button and make sure you

00:13:10.480 --> 00:13:11.200
subscribe

00:13:11.200 --> 00:13:13.600
see ya