1 00:00:06,220 --> 00:00:08,288 (Jacques) Good morning! 2 00:00:08,478 --> 00:00:10,452 Good morning, everybody! 3 00:00:10,452 --> 00:00:11,699 (Audience) Good morning! 4 00:00:11,699 --> 00:00:14,547 Claudine and I are delighted to be with you this morning 5 00:00:14,547 --> 00:00:16,348 to be the first one. 6 00:00:17,350 --> 00:00:22,007 I left home when I was 13 to go to apprenticeship, 7 00:00:22,939 --> 00:00:24,674 that was in 1949. 8 00:00:26,278 --> 00:00:30,172 Actually, home was a restaurant where my mother was the chef, 9 00:00:31,132 --> 00:00:33,189 I was already in that business. 10 00:00:33,189 --> 00:00:37,839 In fact, there was 12 restaurants through the years in my family 11 00:00:38,238 --> 00:00:40,399 and 12 of them owned by women, 12 00:00:40,539 --> 00:00:44,067 I'm the first male to enter that business in my family. 13 00:00:45,467 --> 00:00:49,175 I went into apprenticeship from Lyon, where my mother had her little restaurant 14 00:00:49,175 --> 00:00:52,740 to Bourg-en-Bresse, where I was born a few miles away. 15 00:00:53,741 --> 00:00:57,078 Prior to that, when we were about 8-9 years old, 16 00:00:57,078 --> 00:00:58,798 my mother had that little restaurant 17 00:00:58,798 --> 00:01:02,209 so, my brother and I, before going to school, 18 00:01:02,209 --> 00:01:04,759 walked with my mother to the market 19 00:01:04,759 --> 00:01:08,507 - the St. Antoine market along the Saône river - 20 00:01:09,268 --> 00:01:14,370 and she would walk the market one way, about 1/2 a mile, and buy on her way back. 21 00:01:14,942 --> 00:01:17,918 Buying a case of mushrooms which were getting dark 22 00:01:17,918 --> 00:01:20,404 maybe for a third of the price or less. 23 00:01:21,079 --> 00:01:24,630 We carried, of course, we didn't have a car at the time. 24 00:01:24,630 --> 00:01:28,587 She'd get home and start doing her vegetables, peeling for the day. 25 00:01:29,779 --> 00:01:33,171 She did not have a refrigerator at that time. 26 00:01:33,300 --> 00:01:37,427 She had an ice box, that is a block of ice into a little cabinet, 27 00:01:37,728 --> 00:01:41,504 so she'd have chicken of the day, meat, 28 00:01:41,921 --> 00:01:48,127 fish, usually, whiting or mackerel or skate -inexpensive fish - 29 00:01:48,659 --> 00:01:51,679 and that she has to use it that day. 30 00:01:51,679 --> 00:01:55,473 And again, the day after, we start all over again. 31 00:01:55,878 --> 00:01:58,893 Everything was organic, everything was local. 32 00:01:59,238 --> 00:02:01,990 The word organic did not really exist -- 33 00:02:02,098 --> 00:02:06,368 well, since chemical fertilizers did not exist either, 34 00:02:06,368 --> 00:02:09,958 or fungicides, insecticides, pesticides, all that stuff did not exist, 35 00:02:09,958 --> 00:02:14,594 so everything was, you know, local and -- 36 00:02:14,924 --> 00:02:17,261 (Claudine) Organic. (Jacques) Organic, that's it. 37 00:02:17,261 --> 00:02:22,157 So, I went into apprenticeship, I was 13 years old and, at that time, 38 00:02:23,380 --> 00:02:27,245 it was very structured, well, still is to certain extend, 39 00:02:28,038 --> 00:02:30,669 you got to be there on time, you got to be clean, 40 00:02:30,669 --> 00:02:32,638 you have to be willing, 41 00:02:32,638 --> 00:02:36,532 it's discipline, it's structure, that's the way a kitchen can work. 42 00:02:37,029 --> 00:02:39,819 We learn through a type of osmosis. 43 00:02:39,819 --> 00:02:45,226 The chef never really explained anything, he'd just say, "Do that". 44 00:02:45,509 --> 00:02:49,129 And if you say, "Why?", and he'd say, "Because I just told you". 45 00:02:49,129 --> 00:02:51,266 That was about the end of the apprenticeship. 46 00:02:51,948 --> 00:02:55,958 Probably, just as good for someone who's 13-14 years old. 47 00:02:57,268 --> 00:03:02,468 So, we worked, repeating, and repeating, and repeating those techniques ad nauseam; 48 00:03:03,168 --> 00:03:06,250 we were not allowed to go to the stove for a year. 49 00:03:06,638 --> 00:03:09,851 So, during that year, I did pluck a lot of chicken, 50 00:03:09,854 --> 00:03:14,439 eviscerated a lot of chicken, scaled fish, chopped parsley, 51 00:03:14,439 --> 00:03:17,857 all of that type of things, and then, the chef called me -- 52 00:03:17,857 --> 00:03:20,049 My name was "you" at the time, 53 00:03:20,049 --> 00:03:24,740 then by the time I went to the stove, they called me Jacques, so I got the name. 54 00:03:26,240 --> 00:03:28,268 So, he said, "You start tomorrow". 55 00:03:28,818 --> 00:03:31,648 "I start tomorrow?", I didn't know how to do it; 56 00:03:31,648 --> 00:03:33,889 I went to the stove and I knew how to do it. 57 00:03:33,889 --> 00:03:38,549 So there was that type of osmosis, things that you show, that you mentor. 58 00:03:38,549 --> 00:03:43,083 I've got a book called, "La technique", that I published in 1975, 59 00:03:43,083 --> 00:03:44,590 so it's 40-year old, 60 00:03:45,131 --> 00:03:48,540 and I don't cook the way I did 40 years ago. 61 00:03:48,540 --> 00:03:51,906 But the way I did an egg white, or sharpen a knife, 62 00:03:52,735 --> 00:03:55,284 or bone out a chicken, to give you a sense; 63 00:03:55,284 --> 00:03:58,707 it is that kind of permanence, that kind of continuity, 64 00:03:58,707 --> 00:04:00,797 that, you'll learn in the kitchen; 65 00:04:00,797 --> 00:04:03,986 to be first a craftsman. 66 00:04:04,299 --> 00:04:11,109 And it's very difficult, very often, to explain in words 67 00:04:11,109 --> 00:04:13,031 something that you can show -- 68 00:04:14,850 --> 00:04:16,939 It's easier to show -- 69 00:04:21,339 --> 00:04:23,419 than to explain 70 00:04:24,913 --> 00:04:26,388 in words. 71 00:04:30,320 --> 00:04:32,547 You can do that to chocolate as well. 72 00:04:32,547 --> 00:04:34,972 You'd do that at exactly the right temperature. 73 00:04:36,109 --> 00:04:37,620 And we used to 74 00:04:38,670 --> 00:04:41,103 put the butter in a little container, that on top, 75 00:04:41,790 --> 00:04:43,698 and now you can charge 20 bucks for it. 76 00:04:43,698 --> 00:04:46,298 (Laughter) 77 00:04:47,258 --> 00:04:51,802 Put that in water that's cold, so we could do whatever. 78 00:04:51,802 --> 00:04:54,270 (Applause) 79 00:04:54,270 --> 00:04:55,430 Thank you, Titine. 80 00:04:55,430 --> 00:04:58,174 For me, first you have to be a craftsman. 81 00:04:58,499 --> 00:05:02,838 You have to be a craftsman, and is that repeat, and repeat, and repeat, 82 00:05:02,838 --> 00:05:05,368 that is very important. 83 00:05:06,598 --> 00:05:08,036 Just like 84 00:05:08,140 --> 00:05:13,579 you can spend a year, two years, in a studio in art school 85 00:05:13,579 --> 00:05:18,041 and learn the law of perspective, it is perfectly fine, 86 00:05:18,041 --> 00:05:20,848 and you learn how to mix yellow and blue to make green, 87 00:05:20,848 --> 00:05:24,238 you know what to do with your sand, with your spatula, with the brush; 88 00:05:24,238 --> 00:05:27,938 then you can come out and do one painting after another. 89 00:05:27,938 --> 00:05:30,480 So, does that make you a chef? Not really. 90 00:05:30,480 --> 00:05:35,759 But you're by then, a good craftsman, and that's very important. 91 00:05:35,759 --> 00:05:38,349 You have, first, to know your trade, 92 00:05:38,349 --> 00:05:40,061 whether you are 93 00:05:41,554 --> 00:05:45,180 a shoemaker, or a cabinet maker - like my father - 94 00:05:45,599 --> 00:05:47,871 first, you know your trade. 95 00:05:47,871 --> 00:05:53,049 So, those things that we boned out 96 00:05:54,629 --> 00:05:57,358 I learned, as I said, as a child. 97 00:06:01,728 --> 00:06:04,029 And then, I learned this from -- 98 00:06:04,239 --> 00:06:06,760 I don't remember where I learn that but -- 99 00:06:07,629 --> 00:06:10,198 when you learn something you learn it a certain way 100 00:06:10,198 --> 00:06:13,189 and after a while, you don't remember where it comes from, 101 00:06:13,189 --> 00:06:16,357 and you do it your own way, eventually. 102 00:06:16,771 --> 00:06:21,349 To do a type of lollipop like that, as we used to -- 103 00:06:23,488 --> 00:06:29,285 So, those techniques, as I said, first make you a craftsman, 104 00:06:29,688 --> 00:06:33,128 and if you are a good craftsman, then you can run a restaurant. 105 00:06:34,898 --> 00:06:37,893 There are about 20,000 restaurants in NY 106 00:06:38,912 --> 00:06:45,054 and 100 are well known, maybe 200, maybe 300, maybe 400 even, 107 00:06:45,054 --> 00:06:51,468 but what happen to the 19,500 is that they are run by artisans, 108 00:06:51,848 --> 00:06:56,177 people who know how to work properly, 109 00:06:58,037 --> 00:07:04,221 and this is the only way if you become, in my opinion, a good craftsman, 110 00:07:04,381 --> 00:07:08,221 if you have that type of knowledge, then you can express yourself. 111 00:07:10,520 --> 00:07:11,739 This is half of yourself, 112 00:07:12,739 --> 00:07:15,308 the other half has to do with talent. 113 00:07:15,378 --> 00:07:17,036 If you have talent -- 114 00:07:17,106 --> 00:07:18,788 If you happen to have talent, 115 00:07:18,958 --> 00:07:22,341 by this I mean, if you have taste, 116 00:07:22,341 --> 00:07:26,417 if you have a bit of a vision, 117 00:07:26,417 --> 00:07:30,539 if you have a little bit of creativity, 118 00:07:30,539 --> 00:07:31,980 then you can express yourself, 119 00:07:31,980 --> 00:07:35,556 you now have the means in your hands to express yourself, 120 00:07:37,069 --> 00:07:39,696 if you've gone through those techniques. 121 00:07:40,388 --> 00:07:44,020 You have to repeat those techniques, as I said, 122 00:07:44,020 --> 00:07:47,563 long enough so that, you can afford to forget it after. 123 00:07:52,049 --> 00:07:55,279 Here we are, half of this, now the filet. 124 00:07:58,738 --> 00:08:01,758 (Claudine) If you have any questions you should shout them out, 125 00:08:01,758 --> 00:08:03,633 it's a good opportunity. 126 00:08:06,448 --> 00:08:08,259 (Claudine) There's going to be a test. 127 00:08:08,259 --> 00:08:11,151 (Laughter) 128 00:08:11,769 --> 00:08:13,329 (Jacques) This way. 129 00:08:13,329 --> 00:08:14,997 There's my carcass. 130 00:08:17,469 --> 00:08:21,430 Now, the tip of the filet, you remove it here. 131 00:08:27,398 --> 00:08:29,070 This one here -- 132 00:08:34,310 --> 00:08:38,120 So, you free your hand by learning those techniques 133 00:08:38,120 --> 00:08:40,524 and as I said, you can now 134 00:08:40,524 --> 00:08:44,161 think in term of texture, in term of other things 135 00:08:45,809 --> 00:08:50,116 because, as I said, you free your hand by repeating and repeating. 136 00:08:50,269 --> 00:08:52,978 Now, this is one part of yourself, 137 00:08:52,978 --> 00:08:55,640 half of yourself is there, it's the craftsman; 138 00:08:55,640 --> 00:08:57,552 the other part of yourself 139 00:08:58,979 --> 00:09:01,506 now depend on whether you have talent or not, 140 00:09:02,499 --> 00:09:06,358 and even if you have a little bit of talent, not too much, 141 00:09:06,358 --> 00:09:10,651 you can still run a little restaurant by being a good technician. 142 00:09:11,020 --> 00:09:14,755 If you have a lot of talent, then you can take it further. 143 00:09:15,019 --> 00:09:18,357 Not all the chefs are René Redzepi, 144 00:09:19,207 --> 00:09:20,683 or David Chang, 145 00:09:22,556 --> 00:09:24,498 or José Andrés -- 146 00:09:33,229 --> 00:09:34,864 Here we are. 147 00:09:35,104 --> 00:09:40,118 (Applause and cheering) 148 00:09:40,958 --> 00:09:43,861 (Jacques) At that point you really don't want to cut the bone 149 00:09:43,861 --> 00:09:48,826 because the skin will shrink all over the place so, we break it. 150 00:09:49,998 --> 00:09:53,869 And you know, the interesting part is that if you carve in the dining room, 151 00:09:53,869 --> 00:09:57,022 or if you do a quail or a pheasant or a goose, 152 00:09:57,022 --> 00:09:59,034 the morphology is the same. 153 00:09:59,034 --> 00:10:02,199 If you cut a chicken in pieces to do a skew, 154 00:10:02,199 --> 00:10:07,209 you cut exactly in the sample place, at the shoulder joint, at the hip joint. 155 00:10:09,690 --> 00:10:10,829 Okay. 156 00:10:13,158 --> 00:10:17,968 Now, you have to be very proud of what you're doing 157 00:10:17,968 --> 00:10:24,537 but you also have to be humble to a certain extend 158 00:10:24,537 --> 00:10:27,311 because there's always someone 159 00:10:27,311 --> 00:10:31,708 who can think with more creativity than you, 160 00:10:31,708 --> 00:10:35,248 or who can think harder than you do. 161 00:10:35,248 --> 00:10:39,429 We're all limited by the extent of our taste 162 00:10:39,429 --> 00:10:41,048 and they are different, 163 00:10:41,048 --> 00:10:47,062 and sometimes you have a food critic who really doesn't know how to cook 164 00:10:47,062 --> 00:10:49,699 but maybe can taste better than you do. 165 00:10:49,699 --> 00:10:53,019 We follow on that and sometimes it's difficult to take 166 00:10:53,019 --> 00:10:55,668 but that's the way it is. 167 00:10:55,668 --> 00:11:02,279 For me, a young chef should work with a good chef, in a good place, 168 00:11:02,279 --> 00:11:08,948 and at that point your [inaudible] is to try to visualize what that chef does, 169 00:11:08,948 --> 00:11:15,818 if he or she works with you then you try to see -- 170 00:11:16,300 --> 00:11:18,999 Yeah, where there's no bones -- 171 00:11:19,339 --> 00:11:20,669 a little bit here -- 172 00:11:21,488 --> 00:11:25,578 you try to see the food through his or her sense of aesthetic, 173 00:11:25,578 --> 00:11:27,630 their sense of taste, 174 00:11:27,630 --> 00:11:33,147 and even if it doesn't coincide with you, 175 00:11:33,147 --> 00:11:33,900 most of the time 176 00:11:33,900 --> 00:11:37,089 it won't coincide with your sense of taste or your sense of aesthetic, 177 00:11:37,089 --> 00:11:39,559 but it doesn't really matter at that point, 178 00:11:39,559 --> 00:11:42,377 you have to look at it through that, 179 00:11:42,377 --> 00:11:45,759 and you do it for a year or two, 180 00:11:45,759 --> 00:11:47,928 then you work with another chef for a year or two, 181 00:11:47,928 --> 00:11:52,858 and again looking at things from a different point of view, 182 00:11:52,858 --> 00:11:56,729 different sense of aesthetic, 183 00:11:57,021 --> 00:12:00,949 and then maybe with a third one a few more times, 184 00:12:00,949 --> 00:12:05,338 then at some point you're going to give it back. 185 00:12:05,338 --> 00:12:11,633 You're going to give it back, 186 00:12:11,633 --> 00:12:13,978 and now you're going to filter it through your sense of taste, 187 00:12:13,978 --> 00:12:15,088 through your sense of aesthetic, 188 00:12:15,088 --> 00:12:16,079 that's how it works 189 00:12:16,079 --> 00:12:18,997 because ultimately, at some point, you cannot escape yourself, 190 00:12:18,997 --> 00:12:22,372 you are who you are, and that's the way how you are going to do it. 191 00:12:22,372 --> 00:12:26,281 It's always a bit of a paradox for me 192 00:12:26,281 --> 00:12:29,060 because I work with young chefs at Boston University 193 00:12:29,060 --> 00:12:34,100 and everyone wants to do something special and different. 194 00:12:34,100 --> 00:12:37,281 I do a class which I call a perfect meal, 195 00:12:37,281 --> 00:12:41,890 which is a roast chicken, a bol of potatoes and a salad. 196 00:12:41,890 --> 00:12:43,679 It used to be this way -- 197 00:12:43,679 --> 00:12:48,289 they all go to the stove to do the same type of things 198 00:12:48,289 --> 00:12:54,928 and I say, "Don't try to blew my mind because I know that I have 12 people here 199 00:12:54,928 --> 00:12:57,112 and I'm going to have 12 different chicken." 200 00:12:57,112 --> 00:12:58,520 That's the way it is so -- 201 00:12:58,520 --> 00:13:01,239 you don't really have to torture yourself to be different, 202 00:13:01,239 --> 00:13:02,190 you are different, 203 00:13:02,190 --> 00:13:04,050 there's no way that you can do 204 00:13:04,050 --> 00:13:07,968 exactly the same thing than the person next to you. 205 00:13:09,219 --> 00:13:13,339 This is a good beef stuffing but -- 206 00:13:13,339 --> 00:13:14,738 just to give you an idea. 207 00:13:22,399 --> 00:13:23,571 Okay, Titine -- 208 00:13:27,468 --> 00:13:33,698 We have our galantine, that is if we poach it, 209 00:13:33,698 --> 00:13:35,678 and our ballotine if we roast it. 210 00:13:36,359 --> 00:13:37,740 Thank you. 211 00:13:38,208 --> 00:13:40,051 So, we put it this way -- 212 00:13:52,869 --> 00:13:55,488 (Claudine) No questions? 213 00:14:09,758 --> 00:14:11,760 (Jacques) Okay. 214 00:14:21,569 --> 00:14:24,600 - (Jacques) Very quiet here -- - (Claudine) I know -- 215 00:14:25,229 --> 00:14:26,699 (Claudine) Do you want some wine? 216 00:14:28,418 --> 00:14:31,388 (Jacques) Ah, my daughter knows me -- (Laughter) 217 00:14:33,669 --> 00:14:36,109 (Jacques) Our galantine, so -- 218 00:14:36,109 --> 00:14:42,088 (Applause and cheering) 219 00:14:45,440 --> 00:14:48,551 (Jacques) Up to that point -- (Claudine) You have five minutes -- 220 00:14:48,551 --> 00:14:50,348 (Jacques) Oh yeah... okay. 221 00:14:50,348 --> 00:14:56,998 the technique to do something remain fairly constant -- 222 00:15:00,348 --> 00:15:03,539 but at that point this is what it'll change, 223 00:15:03,539 --> 00:15:07,149 when you're happy with the way how you cook it, what you do with it, 224 00:15:07,149 --> 00:15:09,998 the seasoning and all of that become your own. 225 00:15:11,631 --> 00:15:13,448 Okay -- (Eggs cracking) 226 00:15:18,491 --> 00:15:21,468 - (Jacques) Pepper, Titine? - (Claudine) Yep -- 227 00:15:21,910 --> 00:15:25,178 - (Jacques) That's your salt -- - (Pepper mill grinding) 228 00:15:29,067 --> 00:15:32,281 (Claudine) Everyone needs one of me in the kitchen, you all need me -- 229 00:15:32,281 --> 00:15:34,161 (Laughter) 230 00:15:35,449 --> 00:15:38,929 (Jacques) Now I cook with my granddaughter as well. 231 00:15:39,730 --> 00:15:41,210 (Claudine) She's twelve. 232 00:15:42,908 --> 00:15:49,250 (Jacques) Yes, when I did a TV show with Claudine many years ago -- 233 00:15:51,399 --> 00:15:53,579 (Jacques) Why did you give me two of those? 234 00:15:53,891 --> 00:15:56,339 (Claudine) I get... I offer whatever you want it -- 235 00:15:56,649 --> 00:15:58,249 (Jacques) Okay, good. 236 00:15:58,798 --> 00:16:04,741 (Jacques) I learned to make three different types of omelettes. 237 00:16:05,140 --> 00:16:13,308 A flat omelette, à la piperade or omelette basquaise and so forth -- 238 00:16:13,308 --> 00:16:15,349 Western omelette or in the US, 239 00:16:15,349 --> 00:16:17,779 and then we did an omelette that my mother would do 240 00:16:17,779 --> 00:16:20,980 with very large curd, brown, 241 00:16:20,980 --> 00:16:29,298 and then we did a more classic omelette - like this one - 242 00:16:31,667 --> 00:16:37,579 and loose, we want to make very small curds like scramble egg -- 243 00:16:52,061 --> 00:16:55,060 Now there are three different types of omelettes that I would do, 244 00:16:55,060 --> 00:16:58,888 one is not better than the other, it's just different 245 00:16:58,888 --> 00:17:01,328 A few weeks ago I did that for television, 246 00:17:01,328 --> 00:17:04,401 they came to my house and wanted me to do the three types of omelettes, 247 00:17:04,401 --> 00:17:06,468 which I did -- 248 00:17:06,920 --> 00:17:10,668 and then they realized they only have a minute and a half when they edited, 249 00:17:10,668 --> 00:17:13,579 so they just took some stuff from one omelette to the other, 250 00:17:13,579 --> 00:17:16,118 to the other, and mix the whole thing together -- 251 00:17:16,118 --> 00:17:17,208 (Laughter) 252 00:17:17,208 --> 00:17:18,448 (Jacques) What a waste! 253 00:17:18,448 --> 00:17:20,893 Here you bring it back here 254 00:17:20,893 --> 00:17:23,731 which you're rolling really like a carpet -- 255 00:17:23,731 --> 00:17:26,579 so you're just bringing one lid -- 256 00:17:27,200 --> 00:17:28,858 one lid here and a half moon -- 257 00:17:30,049 --> 00:17:34,160 nice half moon... bring that here -- 258 00:17:34,798 --> 00:17:37,470 bring the other lid on top -- 259 00:17:38,259 --> 00:17:39,918 this is the time when you want to stuff it, 260 00:17:41,158 --> 00:17:42,670 change hands, 261 00:17:42,670 --> 00:17:44,950 and that omelette should be -- 262 00:17:46,219 --> 00:17:47,758 to the edge -- 263 00:17:49,578 --> 00:17:52,370 Ooooh! 264 00:17:52,708 --> 00:17:55,829 - The chefs in my kitchen -- - (Applause) 265 00:18:01,550 --> 00:18:04,469 The chef in my kitchen would have seen the pleads on top 266 00:18:04,469 --> 00:18:08,599 and he would have done some reference to the behind of his grandmother -- 267 00:18:08,599 --> 00:18:10,261 (Laughter) 268 00:18:10,261 --> 00:18:17,418 As you can see it should be pale right on top, very creamy, 269 00:18:17,418 --> 00:18:20,278 very soft inside, like scramble eggs, 270 00:18:20,278 --> 00:18:24,438 and that's what a classic omelette is. 271 00:18:25,539 --> 00:18:27,661 (Jacques) Yes, Claudine? (Claudine) Yes, papa! 272 00:18:28,618 --> 00:18:30,130 (Jacques) Ok, will you drink to that? (Claudine) I will! 273 00:18:30,441 --> 00:18:37,993 (Applause) 274 00:18:40,458 --> 00:18:45,827 (Claudine) Whatever you take away from here, I hope -- 275 00:18:46,448 --> 00:18:49,018 and it's so wonderful that you're taking the time to be here, 276 00:18:49,018 --> 00:18:53,211 I hope you share your knowledge with everyone 277 00:18:53,211 --> 00:18:56,669 because that's how the craft continues, 278 00:18:56,669 --> 00:18:59,469 that's how our trade continues, that's how it gets better. 279 00:18:59,469 --> 00:19:03,982 (Jacques) Yeah, I realized quite well, all of you know those techniques, 280 00:19:03,982 --> 00:19:09,468 some better than me, yet I thank you for coming 281 00:19:09,468 --> 00:19:13,589 and listening to me, but for me the permanence is there, 282 00:19:13,589 --> 00:19:19,498 to teach, to explain and to show at least the basic structure, 283 00:19:19,498 --> 00:19:22,629 and at that point, when you have that type of manual dexterity 284 00:19:22,629 --> 00:19:24,508 or technical knowledge, 285 00:19:24,508 --> 00:19:26,798 then you can run a kitchen quite well. 286 00:19:26,798 --> 00:19:29,600 As I said, if you happen to have talent, 287 00:19:29,600 --> 00:19:31,919 then you bring it to a another level 288 00:19:31,919 --> 00:19:38,149 and, like the person who works in a studio for a couple of years, 289 00:19:38,149 --> 00:19:40,992 as I said, after that, you know how to mix all your paintings 290 00:19:40,992 --> 00:19:42,632 and know what you can do with a brush, 291 00:19:42,632 --> 00:19:45,348 then you step outside you do one painting after another -- 292 00:19:45,348 --> 00:19:47,379 Does that make you an artist? 293 00:19:47,379 --> 00:19:50,059 Not really, at that point you're a good craftsman. 294 00:19:50,059 --> 00:19:52,518 If, however, you have talent, 295 00:19:52,518 --> 00:19:55,379 now you have the means to express that talent 296 00:19:55,379 --> 00:19:57,010 and take it somewhere. 297 00:19:57,010 --> 00:20:00,049 As I said, you do have to transcend that level 298 00:20:00,049 --> 00:20:04,246 in which you have to concentrate on the manual task that you're at. 299 00:20:04,246 --> 00:20:08,019 You see a beginner coming around and you said: "Do you have any parsley?" 300 00:20:08,019 --> 00:20:10,860 and he sayd: "Don't disturb me" - someone is slicing something - 301 00:20:10,860 --> 00:20:13,900 So you have to transcend that level you don't have to think about it, 302 00:20:13,900 --> 00:20:17,389 things are there so you can think in terms of texture, 303 00:20:17,389 --> 00:20:20,572 combination of ingredients, or things like that. 304 00:20:20,572 --> 00:20:21,617 - Right, Titine? 305 00:20:21,617 --> 00:20:23,820 (Claudine) Right. Do you have any questions? 306 00:20:23,820 --> 00:20:26,538 (Jacques) I think I was there at one and a half minute, 307 00:20:26,538 --> 00:20:27,758 now I'm back to seven minutes? 308 00:20:27,758 --> 00:20:29,408 (Laughter) 309 00:20:30,448 --> 00:20:31,728 (Claudine) Oh, okay. 310 00:20:32,828 --> 00:20:39,239 (Jacques) Yes, any questions? No questions... Yes, sir? 311 00:20:39,900 --> 00:20:42,549 (inaudible speaking from the audience) 312 00:20:42,898 --> 00:20:44,499 (Claudine) Oh, yeah -- (Jacques) Do I know that man here? 313 00:20:44,499 --> 00:20:47,629 (Claudine) I gave him 20 bucks before to say that. Thank you, Michelle! 314 00:20:48,809 --> 00:20:49,898 (Claudine blowing a kiss) 315 00:20:50,169 --> 00:20:51,630 (Jacques) Thank you, Michelle. 316 00:20:51,977 --> 00:20:56,699 Yes, I know that there are great, fantastic chefs here -- 317 00:20:56,699 --> 00:21:00,402 we had an extraordinary, extraordinary meal at Noma, 318 00:21:00,402 --> 00:21:03,079 I'm gratified to be here, 319 00:21:03,079 --> 00:21:05,929 I know I'm the oldest of the group 320 00:21:05,929 --> 00:21:10,169 and now that I'm passed 80 years old I'm supposed to be wise -- 321 00:21:10,169 --> 00:21:12,800 I don't think that I'm wiser than when I was 30 years old 322 00:21:12,800 --> 00:21:16,601 but this is what happens when you get old. 323 00:21:16,939 --> 00:21:17,858 You think I'm wise, Claudine? 324 00:21:17,858 --> 00:21:19,769 (Claudine) Yes, yes, yes... of course, you are! 325 00:21:19,769 --> 00:21:20,898 (Jacques) Ok, that's a good daughter. 326 00:21:20,898 --> 00:21:23,788 (Laughter) 327 00:21:23,788 --> 00:21:27,131 (Jacques) Now I'm doing a show with my granddaughter, Shorey, 328 00:21:27,131 --> 00:21:29,538 which we called "Lesson of a grandfather". 329 00:21:29,538 --> 00:21:32,749 So, little things, even how to set up a table, 330 00:21:32,749 --> 00:21:36,369 eat properly at the table or -- 331 00:21:36,369 --> 00:21:38,948 but no, not enjoying wine yet -- 332 00:21:38,948 --> 00:21:41,368 (Claudine) No, no, no wine yet, it's just to give us show, so -- 333 00:21:41,368 --> 00:21:43,481 (Laughter) 334 00:21:43,481 --> 00:21:44,829 (Claudine) Yes, sir? 335 00:21:44,829 --> 00:21:49,178 (inaudible speaking from the audience) 336 00:21:53,118 --> 00:21:57,259 It's a very interesting question... Do you want to repeat the question? 337 00:21:57,259 --> 00:22:00,728 (Claudine) The question is how are the kitchens today different than 338 00:22:00,728 --> 00:22:04,319 the kitchens my father was an apprentice in. 339 00:22:04,319 --> 00:22:05,888 Pretty dramatic? 340 00:22:05,888 --> 00:22:10,158 - Yes, well, no... but, yes! - (Laughter) 341 00:22:10,158 --> 00:22:12,429 There is a permanence there, the point is that 342 00:22:12,429 --> 00:22:14,409 you still have to come on time, 343 00:22:14,409 --> 00:22:16,289 you still have to be ready to work, 344 00:22:16,289 --> 00:22:20,499 you still work in a place which is very structured, very disciplined, 345 00:22:20,499 --> 00:22:21,539 like in the army, 346 00:22:21,539 --> 00:22:23,989 you don't say, "Yes, captain!", but you say, "Yes, chef!", 347 00:22:23,989 --> 00:22:26,668 it's about the same thing and you have to -- 348 00:22:26,668 --> 00:22:29,660 you have to so that the kitchen works properly. 349 00:22:29,660 --> 00:22:31,158 You're a member of a team, 350 00:22:31,158 --> 00:22:34,079 and if you're late or you don't show up to be part of that team, 351 00:22:34,079 --> 00:22:35,698 you're going to destroy the structure, 352 00:22:35,698 --> 00:22:37,708 so that remains the same. 353 00:22:37,708 --> 00:22:40,411 That being said, when I was a kid, 354 00:22:40,411 --> 00:22:45,949 when we cut a tomato we only cut it in one direction, 355 00:22:45,949 --> 00:22:49,339 we never alternate to the other side when I worked at the Plaza and in Paris, 356 00:22:49,339 --> 00:22:50,729 or whatever in the fifties. 357 00:22:50,729 --> 00:22:53,307 Now, there's a much greater deal 358 00:22:53,307 --> 00:22:55,861 and innovation is part of yourself too. 359 00:22:55,861 --> 00:23:00,188 And, of course, we, up to 20-30 years ago -- 360 00:23:00,188 --> 00:23:05,898 I've been in the kitchen 65-67 years -- 361 00:23:05,898 --> 00:23:08,440 the cook were at the bottom of the social scale. 362 00:23:08,440 --> 00:23:12,828 Any good mother would have wanted her child to marry a doctor, an architect, 363 00:23:12,828 --> 00:23:17,029 certainly not a cook. 364 00:23:17,029 --> 00:23:20,298 Now we are genius! I don't know exactly what happened but -- 365 00:23:20,298 --> 00:23:21,089 (Laughter 366 00:23:21,089 --> 00:23:22,901 this is great, this is terrific, so -- 367 00:23:22,901 --> 00:23:24,309 (Claudine) Papa, he has a question. 368 00:23:24,309 --> 00:23:25,441 (René) I have a question for you. (Jacques) Yes. 369 00:23:25,441 --> 00:23:33,888 (René) You said you're more than 80, right? 370 00:23:33,888 --> 00:23:35,098 (Jacques) Yes. (René) Yes. 371 00:23:35,098 --> 00:23:43,088 (René) So, I'm 39 and I think a lot of cooks 372 00:23:43,088 --> 00:23:48,629 that deal with this... what can I say, like, guilt, sometimes -- 373 00:23:48,629 --> 00:23:51,892 they feel like they should be yearning for something in the past, 374 00:23:51,892 --> 00:23:53,889 that in the past things were better, kind of -- 375 00:23:53,889 --> 00:24:01,309 Can you please tell us how it used to be in the kitchen 376 00:24:01,309 --> 00:24:04,799 in whether you think the life in the kitchen is better today, 377 00:24:04,799 --> 00:24:08,949 and actually, do you think that food has become better 378 00:24:08,949 --> 00:24:10,301 and is becoming better? 379 00:24:10,301 --> 00:24:14,275 Or, is it better back in the old days? 380 00:24:14,275 --> 00:24:17,308 (Jacques) No, it is better (but) there's a cycle also; 381 00:24:17,308 --> 00:24:20,152 certainly as I said, my mother used only organic products too 382 00:24:20,152 --> 00:24:22,368 but that's what we have, we didn't have anything else, 383 00:24:22,368 --> 00:24:25,667 and we're going back to that, which is a great thing, of course, 384 00:24:25,667 --> 00:24:27,598 to be in communion with the Earth, 385 00:24:27,598 --> 00:24:29,379 to be in communion with where you work 386 00:24:29,379 --> 00:24:31,060 and be local, and so forth. 387 00:24:31,060 --> 00:24:32,501 Yes, absolutely. 388 00:24:32,501 --> 00:24:36,279 The cooks now that the same structure that we used to have 389 00:24:36,279 --> 00:24:41,128 but you have much more freedom than we ever had before. 390 00:24:41,128 --> 00:24:45,570 Certainly, I got kicked in the rear end a few times by my chefs, 391 00:24:45,570 --> 00:24:49,813 I mean it was the type of things that it was supposed at that time -- 392 00:24:49,813 --> 00:24:50,979 it was supposed to be difficult, 393 00:24:50,979 --> 00:24:53,411 you were supposed to go to a rite of passage and all of that, 394 00:24:53,411 --> 00:24:55,010 which is not really necessary, 395 00:24:55,010 --> 00:24:57,112 you don't need to be yelled at -- 396 00:24:57,112 --> 00:25:04,762 I've seen a lot of show on television, certainly, reality show, 397 00:25:04,762 --> 00:25:09,279 and the kitchen is like mayhem and the chef is yelling all over the place. 398 00:25:09,279 --> 00:25:12,789 This is not conducive to good work, certainly. 399 00:25:12,789 --> 00:25:16,708 There's a great deal of love, a great deal of yourself that you put in that food, 400 00:25:16,708 --> 00:25:20,989 and the yelling and other people's lack of respect, 401 00:25:20,989 --> 00:25:25,152 those things are not conducive, in my opinion, to learning well 402 00:25:25,152 --> 00:25:27,598 and teaching people how to cook. 403 00:25:27,598 --> 00:25:30,088 At a certain age, when I was 12-13, the best way of learning 404 00:25:30,088 --> 00:25:35,189 was probably through that kind of osmotic way: 405 00:25:35,189 --> 00:25:37,809 you look, you repeat, you look, you repeat, and so forth. 406 00:25:37,809 --> 00:25:39,608 We passed that level now. 407 00:25:39,608 --> 00:25:43,248 Chefs come from cooking schools, 408 00:25:43,248 --> 00:25:46,490 they come out from college to their older time, 409 00:25:46,490 --> 00:25:49,051 they want to know how to do it, they want us to explain, 410 00:25:49,051 --> 00:25:52,409 so it's a different way of teaching than what we're used to; 411 00:25:52,409 --> 00:25:55,809 and people are much more in a hurry than how we were too; 412 00:25:55,809 --> 00:25:58,612 we had at least three other apprenticeship without paid or anything, 413 00:25:58,612 --> 00:26:03,379 so, you know, there are six other apprentices in front of you -- 414 00:26:03,379 --> 00:26:04,797 so, this is much better now. 415 00:26:04,797 --> 00:26:08,779 A much greater respect for the chef, for what we do for our tradition, 416 00:26:08,779 --> 00:26:10,819 and this is why, I mean, we're here today -- 417 00:26:10,819 --> 00:26:13,669 - Yes? - (Claudine) Wrap it up. 418 00:26:13,669 --> 00:26:15,928 (Jacques) Wrap it up. Yes, ma'm, okay. But I still see one minute -- 419 00:26:15,928 --> 00:26:18,900 - (Claudine) Trust me. - (Laughter) 420 00:26:18,900 --> 00:26:21,791 (Jacques) I don't know whether that's the right answer to your question, 421 00:26:21,791 --> 00:26:26,020 or if it's specific enough but -- 422 00:26:26,020 --> 00:26:27,669 (René) Can you just say in a yes or no? 423 00:26:27,669 --> 00:26:30,678 (Laughter) 424 00:26:30,678 --> 00:26:33,989 (Claudine) You'll be the first one to ever get that answer, if it's possible. 425 00:26:33,989 --> 00:26:36,597 If you look back when you were 30 426 00:26:36,597 --> 00:26:40,448 and you look at kitchens and chefs and cooking now, 427 00:26:40,448 --> 00:26:42,220 do you believe that is better now? 428 00:26:42,220 --> 00:26:44,500 (Jacques) Oh yes, absolutely, no question at all -- 429 00:26:44,500 --> 00:26:45,509 (René) Thank you! 430 00:26:45,509 --> 00:26:46,642 (Applause) 431 00:26:46,642 --> 00:26:53,949 (Jacques) No question at all. 432 00:26:53,949 --> 00:26:56,841 (Claudine) Thank you, of course, to the MAD team for working there, 433 00:26:56,841 --> 00:27:01,010 took us all to the extend that I find extraordinary 434 00:27:01,010 --> 00:27:03,988 and rather inspiring so, 435 00:27:03,988 --> 00:27:05,698 I hope that everyone feels really good about the work here, 436 00:27:05,698 --> 00:27:09,948 but, of course, thanks to all of you for caring so much about what we do 437 00:27:09,948 --> 00:27:12,938 and about what you do and bringing it to the next level 438 00:27:12,938 --> 00:27:15,599 We hope you have a wonderful, wonderful couple of days. 439 00:27:15,599 --> 00:27:16,799 - Thank you! - (Jacques) We are! 440 00:27:16,799 --> 00:27:18,309 And drink a lot of wine! 441 00:27:18,309 --> 00:27:24,509 (Cheering and Applause) 442 00:27:24,852 --> 00:27:25,739 Thank you very much! 443 00:27:25,739 --> 00:27:26,819 (Cheering and Applause) 444 00:27:26,819 --> 00:27:29,569 My daughter, Claudine! 445 00:27:30,360 --> 00:27:32,568 (Cheering and Applause) 446 00:27:32,998 --> 00:27:35,108 (Claudine) I'm going to bring this in the back for [inaudible] 447 00:27:35,108 --> 00:27:36,349 (Jacques) Okay, good. 448 00:27:38,818 --> 00:27:39,829 (Jacques) Hi Michelle! 449 00:27:43,098 --> 00:27:45,541 (Jacque) Jose is not here? (René) He's here -- 450 00:27:47,770 --> 00:27:51,448 (Jacques) Okay. Everything I know, I learned from him, you know. 451 00:27:51,448 --> 00:27:53,548 (Laughter)