WEBVTT

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[Music]

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so here is a cool fact

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rope manufacturers claim that no matter

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what fall you will take on a dynamic

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climbing rope

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the impact

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is unlikely to injure you

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that was sick

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so how does it feel this

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impact on a huge outside whipper

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or this is even better how does it feel

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to fall while trying to clip a second

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quick draw and get a really hard catch

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so can this impact injure you does it

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hurt

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or

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even better

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how does it feel when i'm trying to

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explain all of this

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and almost kill myself

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so yeah that happened and it all started

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with my wish to measure the forces of

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really really hard climbing falls

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and knowing these forces allow me and

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probably others to answer a lot of

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important questions for us climbers

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like can you break a dynamic climbing

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rope which is really really worn out

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on realistic climbing falls

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some people

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would say that it is impossible to break

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this rope while others would freak out

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seeing this

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because it doesn't look that great to be

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honest

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so stick with me the answer to this is

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coming

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and it actually surprised me a lot

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but now back to hard falls

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so in previous episode we went to a

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small climbing gym in germany and we

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tried to create the hardest climbing fall

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by creating a ton of drag

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and belaying in some crazy crazy ways

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and then i had a quiz for you

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which fall do you think was harder for
the climber

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this crazy slam

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or this big outdoors whipper

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so if you think that the big fall

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looks softer

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good because i thought exactly the same

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thing and pretty much any person to whom

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i showed these two clips

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i'm gonna show you two falls

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and you can try to guess which one was

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harder to the climber 
- okay

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yeah i can already tell you

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well theoretically i would say that the

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second one in the gym is the harder fall

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because it's a shorter rope that can

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absorb or a shorter portion of the rope

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will absorb the energy

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since there's so much zigzag happening

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in the rope line and therefore yeah not

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the entire rope that is actually used

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so let's see if that's actually true

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[Music]

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that was sick

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[Music]

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that was sick

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that was like a massive fall

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it was

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falling was nice

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how big you think the fall was

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how hard to say i will say like

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eight meters maybe

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it looked massive from the side it

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looked massive

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maybe 10

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i don't know

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do you think it's more than 10

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yeah from the side it looks massive

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I think more it was more to 15 i would say

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you know

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you don't think so 15

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no i don't think so i don't think so

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yeah judging the distance of

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the fall is always tricky but by my best

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estimation before the fall he was around

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two and a half meters above the bolt and

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after the fall he was about eight meters

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below the bolt so let's say 10 meters

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and this 10 meters fall resulted into

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3.4 kilonewtons of force and if we

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compare that to the jim slam

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that slam was only 2.6 kilonewtons and

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the hardest fall in the gym that day we

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got was 2.9 kilonewtons this one

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so does it mean that this huge whipper

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was harder than the slam

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it doesn't look like that right

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and to make sense out of all of this we

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need to define what does it mean harder

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what we measured is the peak force to

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the climber's harness and this peak

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force happens around this moment

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[Music]

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and if you look closely this doesn't

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look that bad

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and what gets our attention is actually

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the contact to the wall imagine if this

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wall would have been not overhanging

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then the peak force on the dynamometer

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to the climber's harness would read

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exactly the same but the slam to the

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wall would be much worse and that's by

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the way how most of the people sprain

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their ankles shortfall hard catch

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super quick slam into the wall so how

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hard the fall for the climber is will

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depend on two things first is the

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initial impact to the harness this

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that we measured to be around three to

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three and a half kilonewtons on hard

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falls let's test how three kilonewtons

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feels

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on the harness

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don't do this at home

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ouch

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told you not to do this at home

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listen learned

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falling on a single bolt on three

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kilonewtons of force

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can make an entire bolt come out

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of

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18 millimeters of shitty spanish plywood

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so

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the impact was

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okay

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but the landing on the ass was

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not so okay

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all right

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don't do this at home number two

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since i really want to experience three

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or three and a half kilonewtons of force

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to my harness so i can tell you

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how that feels

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i rigged another system

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which is

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hopefully not gonna end up like the

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first one

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this time it's very static but it

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doesn't matter

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i just want to feel it

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wow

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that was 3.8

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kilonewtons

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and actually that felt quite okay

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3.1 kilonewtons

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and i barely feel anything

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three and a half

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okay this was almost four kilonewtons so

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under three kilonewtons

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i don't feel anything between three and

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four i get a little but that's far from

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injuring me

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and

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my homemade climbing wall breaks at

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3.8 kilonewtons to default which would

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be around 2 kilonewtons to the climber

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so

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my homemade climbing

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wall is not for

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falling and the second thing that the

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climber will experience is of course the

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impact to the wall which as we saw might

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be problematic in fact let's zoom in on

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the big fall and watch it couple of

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times

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and now let's compare it to the gym fall

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so as you can see it's not that easy to

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tell which one was actually harder and

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it also depends a lot on climbers skills

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to absorb the impact with his legs as a

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climber you basically need to be like a

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cat when you hit the wall super soft and

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people who do a lot of baldering they

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tend to be much better because they fall

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on the crash pads a lot

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and falling on a crash but with stiff

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legs would probably kill you so the same

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applies to falling on ropes you want to

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absorb the impact as soft as possible

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and of course there are other factors

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that contribute to how hard you will

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slam to the wall for example jumping

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away or pushing yourself away from the

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wall as i talked in the previous episode

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or

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belaying in really hard ways in gym case

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we created a hard catch on purpose

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however on outdoors whipper the belayer

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was standing and doing nothing

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handbag

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and i have a separate video coming where

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i will show that standing and doing

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nothing creates much harder catch than

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pretty much any soft delaying method you

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can try so although this belay didn't

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looked hard it was definitely possible

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to make it much softer but this was

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actually perfect because i got the force

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to the climber on big whipper on hardish

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catch

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totally realistic scenario and that's

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actually not all

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in the following months i was going

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around and making a ton of experiments

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[Music]

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during which i recorded the forces to

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the climber on over hundreds of faults

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and even ryan sent me some clips of his

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to compare the datum

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oh

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oh that was better than wheaties in the

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morning

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i hit 1.14 i got 2.64 and the hardest

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fall i recorded was this one

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[Music]

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okay okay you saved me

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this is the hardest recording you've got

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3.60

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so in this case we were filming an

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episode of how to belay sketchy close to

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the ground falls

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the climber was clipping the second

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quick draw above his head and takes a

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fall

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[Music]

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so that's another sneak peek into the

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future what's coming on my channel and

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if you don't want to miss that i hope

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that you do youtube things and subscribe

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and click all of these bells and stuff

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but for now i can say that unless the

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climber is really really heavy

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or we are in some unlucky multi-pitch

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scenario which i haven't had time yet to

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experiment with creating a fall which

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would be harder than four kilonewtons

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to the climber

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is really really unlikely and that's

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really good to know because it just

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shows how great the climbing ropes are

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at keeping us safe as i've just

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demonstrated here four kilonewtons to

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climbers harness is not really something

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we should worry about unless of course

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it's accompanied by a

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slam to the wall and that brings me to

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the original question

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can i snap this very worn out rope on

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the realistic climbing fall

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or now i can rephrase the question can i

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snap this rope on forces below 4

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kilonewtons to the rope and the answer

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to this surprised me a lot i had a

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chance to hang out with mamamoo

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engineers and test this

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and also ask pretty much any question i

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wanted and man that was super

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interesting so i recommend to not miss

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the next episode and until then i'm

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gonna leave you with somebody who really

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likes challenges

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okay

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that left hand is 29.

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no i think sitting is better it's all

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about technique

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[Music]

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it's better it's 8 68 now

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okay pressing as hard as you can with

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one hand

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[Music]

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he's going slow

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he's he's weaker than i

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yeah

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really

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what

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how how much do you do i don't say it ah

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and to make this competition a little

00:13:50.160 --> 00:13:53.040
bit more fair i decided to split it into

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1 000 for guys and 1 000 for girls and

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to make it even more interesting girls

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can win both categories of course if

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there is a girl who is stronger than

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the guys

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not better yeah you can grab in any way

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you like

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any recommendation

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oh no it's a competition i don't give

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any hands

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[Music]

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everybody tries to go slow first what's

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this i'm so much better

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[Music]

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oh

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the good technique was funny

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it's going to be worse

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yeah

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50.

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where is the power screen oh my god oh

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my god

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oh you have seventy

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you have seventy even the dog

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congratulations

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or no boxing techniques right

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watch out my mind

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oh it works the boxing technique works

00:15:23.760 --> 00:15:25.920
it's all about technique you like the

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boxing kidneys somehow

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you want to try boxing

00:15:38.839 --> 00:15:42.880
technique it's my best

00:15:45.040 --> 00:15:46.639
by the way did you notice that this

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episode had no annoying ads

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this is thanks to people like this guy

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[Applause]

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you