0:00:00.000,0:00:01.679
<b>so how bad do you think</b>[br]<b>this carabiner is?</b>

0:00:01.679,0:00:04.400
<b>it's really bad... it's super super sharp</b>

0:00:04.400,0:00:07.879
<b>super super sharp?</b>[br]<b>it's not only a little bit worn out</b>

0:00:07.879,0:00:08.880
<b>it's super sharp</b>

0:00:08.880,0:00:11.119
<b>where did you got it from from? </b>[br]<b>from a crag</b>

0:00:11.119,0:00:15.199
<b>so this is a real carabiner</b>[br]<b>from real crag</b>

0:00:15.199,0:00:17.480
<b>yes, there was an accident</b>[br]<b>in this crag</b>

0:00:17.480,0:00:19.519
<b>and the climber...</b>

0:00:19.519,0:00:21.640
<b>died...</b>

0:00:21.640,0:00:24.079
<b>as you can see it's really sharp</b>

0:00:24.079,0:00:27.280
<b>I want to feel it</b>

0:00:27.679,0:00:31.120
<b>it doesn't feel that sharp for me</b>

0:00:31.120,0:00:32.200
<b>i mean it's not a knife</b>

0:00:32.200,0:00:33.280
<b>yeah yeah yeah</b>

0:00:33.280,0:00:35.679
<b>but like for a rope this is enough</b>

0:00:35.679,0:00:37.000
<b>good to know...</b>

0:00:37.640,0:00:39.079
<b>right</b>

0:00:39.079,0:00:40.840
<b>i don't know about you</b>

0:00:40.840,0:00:43.479
<b>but personally i never had to witness</b>

0:00:43.479,0:00:46.359
<b>anybody completely snapping his or her</b>

0:00:46.359,0:00:47.719
<b>climbing rope</b>

0:00:47.719,0:00:50.359
<b>during a real climbing fall but</b>

0:00:50.359,0:00:52.920
<b>unfortunately it happens</b>

0:00:52.920,0:00:54.119
<b>so</b>

0:00:54.119,0:00:56.200
<b>people who watch my channel</b>

0:00:56.200,0:00:58.200
<b>and have fear of falling</b>

0:00:58.200,0:01:01.399
<b>watch this video and they will have more</b>

0:01:01.399,0:01:03.479
<b>fear of falling after it</b>

0:01:03.479,0:01:05.319
<b>now if you're one of these more</b>

0:01:05.319,0:01:08.280
<b>sensitive people don't worry just</b>

0:01:08.280,0:01:11.079
<b>imagine me holding your hand as i guide</b>

0:01:11.079,0:01:13.480
<b>you through this video and everything is</b>

0:01:13.480,0:01:16.599
<b>gonna be fine. Okay jokes aside this is a</b>

0:01:16.599,0:01:19.560
<b>part two of my conversations with rope</b>

0:01:19.560,0:01:22.200
<b>experts from Mammut, where in a part one</b>

0:01:22.200,0:01:24.840
<b>i showed you how a soft spot in your</b>

0:01:24.840,0:01:27.719
<b>climbing rope can easily end up in a</b>

0:01:27.719,0:01:30.760
<b>broken sheath on a realistic climbing</b>

0:01:30.760,0:01:34.120
<b>fall we broke the sheath after two falls</b>

0:01:34.120,0:01:36.519
<b>and you said it's gonna last </b>

0:01:36.519,0:01:38.439
<b>something like this</b>

0:01:38.439,0:01:41.159
<b>unfortunately i've seen this way too</b>

0:01:41.159,0:01:43.879
<b>many times the good news as we saw in</b>

0:01:43.879,0:01:46.200
<b>that video that even with completely</b>

0:01:46.200,0:01:49.000
<b>broken sheath the rope was still hard to</b>

0:01:49.000,0:01:49.959
<b>snap</b>

0:01:49.959,0:01:52.840
*<i>the bad news is that the core strands</i>

0:01:52.840,0:01:56.519
<b>are way easier to cut</b>

0:01:58.040,0:02:00.200
<b>somebody said of course it's easy to cut</b>

0:02:00.200,0:02:02.760
<b>when you use a swiss army knife so this</b>

0:02:02.760,0:02:05.799
<b>is not a swiss army knife it's actually</b>

0:02:05.799,0:02:08.199
<b>quite dull this is 80 kilograms and this</b>

0:02:08.199,0:02:10.680
<b>is a rope</b>

0:02:17.240,0:02:21.800
<b>okay that was not that hard</b>

0:02:21.800,0:02:25.159
<b>let's get rid of the sheath</b>

0:02:29.319,0:02:31.960
<b>okay so now the climber is hanging only</b>

0:02:31.960,0:02:35.719
<b>on core strands let's see how</b>

0:02:35.719,0:02:37.479
<b>hard it is to cut</b>

0:02:37.479,0:02:40.439
<b>the core strands</b>

0:02:47.479,0:02:49.639
<b>so if during the fall you would lose</b>

0:02:49.639,0:02:52.039
<b>your sheath and then your rope would run</b>

0:02:52.039,0:02:54.759
<b>across a sharp edge</b>

0:02:54.759,0:02:56.680
<b>so assuming that you take care of your</b>

0:02:56.680,0:02:59.080
<b>rope and it's in a good condition</b>

0:02:59.080,0:03:01.719
<b>then you still have to quite often</b>

0:03:01.719,0:03:05.080
<b>overlook dangers</b>

0:03:06.120,0:03:08.039
<b>so first</b>

0:03:08.039,0:03:10.680
<b>is all the equipment that your rope goes</b>

0:03:10.680,0:03:12.560
<b>through</b>

0:03:12.560,0:03:25.800
<b>[Music]</b>

0:03:27.159,0:03:29.400
<b>oh</b>

0:03:29.479,0:03:32.439
<b>so this was a new quickdraw before i</b>

0:03:32.439,0:03:35.400
<b>did that and as you can see the paint at</b>

0:03:35.400,0:03:38.280
<b>this point is already wearing off and if</b>

0:03:38.280,0:03:40.360
<b>i would continue doing that or i would</b>

0:03:40.360,0:03:42.360
<b>just go climbing and take falls on this</b>

0:03:42.360,0:03:44.520
<b>quickdraw this part would develop a</b>

0:03:44.520,0:03:46.919
<b>groove something like this</b>

0:03:46.919,0:03:50.199
<b>or in some cases even worse so a little</b>

0:03:50.199,0:03:52.439
<b>groove after some time of climbing is</b>

0:03:52.439,0:03:55.159
<b>definitely normal and usually it's not a</b>

0:03:55.159,0:03:57.639
<b>problem since the rope makes it nice</b>

0:03:57.639,0:04:00.199
<b>smooth and round</b>

0:04:00.199,0:04:03.159
<b>usually but not always</b>

0:04:03.159,0:04:05.879
<b>like in the story where the climber died</b>

0:04:05.879,0:04:08.120
<b>the situation was like this the route</b>

0:04:08.120,0:04:10.599
<b>was traversing under the roof and the</b>

0:04:10.599,0:04:13.000
<b>crux was after a second quick draw</b>

0:04:13.000,0:04:15.319
<b>that's where everybody kept falling and</b>

0:04:15.319,0:04:17.800
<b>this quickdraw probably had a nice and</b>

0:04:17.800,0:04:19.399
<b>round edge</b>

0:04:19.399,0:04:22.120
<b>however this quickdraw only seen a</b>

0:04:22.120,0:04:24.839
<b>sideways motion sideways friction from</b>

0:04:24.839,0:04:28.360
<b>the rope and nobody ever fell on it</b>

0:04:28.360,0:04:32.120
<b>until one day a climber took a fall</b>

0:04:32.120,0:04:35.079
<b>and his rope was cut on this quickdraw</b>

0:04:35.079,0:04:37.959
<b>do you test how your ropes are resistant</b>

0:04:37.959,0:04:40.439
<b>to cutting and are there any standards</b>

0:04:40.439,0:04:42.680
<b>start with the second question first so</b>

0:04:42.680,0:04:45.560
<b>and no there are no standard tests for</b>

0:04:45.560,0:04:47.319
<b>the cut resistance i mean in the</b>

0:04:47.319,0:04:50.120
<b>standard today this default test which i</b>

0:04:50.120,0:04:52.279
<b>think everyone has seen a million times</b>

0:04:52.279,0:04:54.839
<b>but here the rope falls over a clamp</b>

0:04:54.839,0:04:57.480
<b>that's very similar to a new carabiner</b>

0:04:57.480,0:05:00.040
<b>so to demonstrate how bad a sharp</b>

0:05:00.040,0:05:01.560
<b>carabiner can be</b>

0:05:01.560,0:05:03.959
<b>we took a brand new rope and rigged a</b>

0:05:03.959,0:05:06.439
<b>realistic fall scenario</b>

0:05:06.439,0:05:08.920
<b>this is 9.5</b>

0:05:08.920,0:05:11.639
<b>grand euro</b>

0:05:12.759,0:05:13.720
<b>oh</b>

0:05:13.720,0:05:15.720
<b>first of all brand new rope</b>

0:05:15.720,0:05:19.240
<b>entire sheath of the rope got wrecked the</b>

0:05:19.240,0:05:21.160
<b>force in area is really it's nothing</b>

0:05:21.160,0:05:23.720
<b>hard i'm actually shocked by this like</b>

0:05:23.720,0:05:27.360
<b>this is crazy. Now we change to the one</b>

0:05:27.360,0:05:28.360
the old rope

0:05:28.360,0:05:30.600
<b>let's see what happens if your rope is</b>

0:05:30.600,0:05:33.000
<b>actually fuzzy and old so we take the</b>

0:05:33.000,0:05:35.399
<b>same old rope we find another spot which</b>

0:05:35.399,0:05:38.199
<b>is quite fuzzy it's</b>

0:05:38.199,0:05:40.439
<b>definitely people would still climb on</b>

0:05:40.439,0:05:41.319
<b>this</b>

0:05:41.319,0:05:42.759
<b>soft</b>

0:05:42.759,0:05:45.399
<b>but not completely bad</b>

0:05:45.399,0:05:47.720
<b>will it snap no you think it will not</b>

0:05:47.720,0:05:48.680
<b>snap</b>

0:05:48.680,0:05:51.079
<b>how many lives the quarter will lose</b>

0:05:51.079,0:05:54.199
<b>two strands will be snapped of the core</b>

0:05:54.199,0:05:56.360
<b>okay, and the sheath. Okay his guess is</b>

0:05:56.360,0:05:58.600
<b>two out of eight</b>

0:06:02.199,0:06:04.439
<b>so half of the core's strands snapped, so</b>

0:06:04.439,0:06:05.519
<b>on the old rope half</b>

0:06:05.519,0:06:06.499
of the strands snapped

0:06:06.519,0:06:07.439
<b>on the new one none</b>

0:06:07.439,0:06:08.680
<b>[Music]</b>

0:06:08.680,0:06:10.759
<b>it's still good to know that even the</b>

0:06:10.759,0:06:13.720
<b>old old rope kind of survived but if the</b>

0:06:13.720,0:06:16.120
<b>fall would be bigger a little bit bigger</b>

0:06:16.120,0:06:18.439
<b>i mean then it would snap be careful</b>

0:06:18.439,0:06:19.959
<b>with sharp edges</b>

0:06:19.959,0:06:22.680
<b>a couple of years ago UIAA tried to</b>

0:06:22.680,0:06:25.639
<b>implement a cut resistant test where the</b>

0:06:25.639,0:06:27.879
<b>rope had a dynamic fall over a sharp</b>

0:06:27.879,0:06:29.800
<b>edge i think it was a year or two on the</b>

0:06:29.800,0:06:32.279
<b>market and then it they cancel it</b>

0:06:32.279,0:06:33.319
<b>because the</b>

0:06:33.319,0:06:35.480
<b>testing it did not work</b>

0:06:35.480,0:06:38.600
<b>now yeah hillary they have their own</b>

0:06:38.600,0:06:41.800
<b>test method and we are also looking into</b>

0:06:41.800,0:06:44.519
<b>this actually since a long long time the</b>

0:06:44.519,0:06:47.639
<b>rope takes a dynamic fall over a granite</b>

0:06:47.639,0:06:51.079
<b>edge and slides over this granite edge</b>

0:06:51.079,0:06:53.319
<b>so at the moment it's up to the brands</b>

0:06:53.319,0:06:55.399
<b>themselves to do their internal testing</b>

0:06:55.399,0:06:56.519
<b>there is no</b>

0:06:56.519,0:07:00.120
<b>universal standard correct it will come</b>

0:07:00.120,0:07:02.519
<b>one day so now the climber is hanging</b>

0:07:02.519,0:07:04.839
<b>only on four strands of the rope and we</b>

0:07:04.839,0:07:07.639
<b>are gonna show how much it takes to</b>

0:07:07.639,0:07:09.399
<b>completely snap the rope if you just</b>

0:07:09.399,0:07:13.759
<b>barely touch with the knife</b>

0:07:14.360,0:07:16.040
<b>it's crazy</b>

0:07:16.040,0:07:18.439
<b>it's just nothing yeah he barely touched</b>

0:07:18.439,0:07:21.240
<b>with the sharp edge and it snapped yeah</b>

0:07:21.240,0:07:22.680
<b>this is the</b>

0:07:22.680,0:07:25.959
<b>the carabiner we did the test with now</b>

0:07:25.959,0:07:28.680
<b>it doesn't feel like a knife but the</b>

0:07:28.680,0:07:30.839
<b>groove is very deep it's definitely at</b>

0:07:30.839,0:07:33.160
<b>the edges it's sharp</b>

0:07:33.160,0:07:34.519
<b>but it's</b>

0:07:34.519,0:07:37.480
<b>not something that i would expect out of</b>

0:07:37.480,0:07:40.199
<b>snapping the rope like that so please</b>

0:07:40.199,0:07:42.199
<b>take care of your carabiners and if</b>

0:07:42.199,0:07:45.000
<b>you're climbing on fixed carabiners</b>

0:07:45.000,0:07:46.920
<b>make sure to check them as well</b>

0:07:46.920,0:07:50.279
<b>it's a deep groove but somehow i was</b>

0:07:50.279,0:07:54.040
<b>expecting an a sharper edge to be honest</b>

0:07:54.040,0:07:58.680
<b>because it still feels kind of smooth</b>

0:07:59.879,0:08:00.920
<b>good to know</b>

0:08:00.920,0:08:02.680
<b>good to know definitely</b>

0:08:02.680,0:08:04.839
<b>so in addition to ropes chewing through</b>

0:08:04.839,0:08:07.079
<b>your quick draws you should also be</b>

0:08:07.079,0:08:09.720
<b>aware how and where you clip your quick</b>

0:08:09.720,0:08:12.279
<b>draws for example this one the rope</b>

0:08:12.279,0:08:14.199
<b>should be only clipped to the blue</b>

0:08:14.199,0:08:16.439
<b>carabiner and if you don't know why you</b>

0:08:16.439,0:08:18.680
<b>should watch my master class on quick</b>

0:08:18.680,0:08:21.000
<b>draws let's say for whatever reason i</b>

0:08:21.000,0:08:23.480
<b>want to connect myself to the bolt using</b>

0:08:23.480,0:08:27.079
<b>a quickdraw if i would do this</b>

0:08:27.079,0:08:29.319
<b>this is actually a really bad idea</b>

0:08:29.319,0:08:32.440
<b>because the bolt can leave a sharp cut</b>

0:08:32.440,0:08:35.080
<b>on this carabiner and this carabiner</b>

0:08:35.080,0:08:37.639
<b>later will get in contact with the rope</b>

0:08:37.639,0:08:39.240
<b>so instead of that</b>

0:08:39.240,0:08:41.480
<b>do the opposite</b>

0:08:41.480,0:08:43.399
<b>the carabiner which is designed to go to</b>

0:08:43.399,0:08:45.639
<b>the bolt goes to the bolt and the rope</b>

0:08:45.639,0:08:47.559
<b>and goes to something soft there was</b>

0:08:47.559,0:08:49.080
<b>also for example an accident in</b>

0:08:49.080,0:08:51.559
<b>switzerland in mountain guide aspirant</b>

0:08:51.559,0:08:53.879
<b>courses one mountain guide lowered two</b>

0:08:53.879,0:08:56.759
<b>person on one strand 8.7 millimeter</b>

0:08:56.759,0:08:58.759
<b>diameter he lowered them</b>

0:08:58.759,0:09:01.000
<b>both on this single strand and then like</b>

0:09:01.000,0:09:03.000
<b>one and a half meters below his feet</b>

0:09:03.000,0:09:05.000
<b>there was like an edge but really like</b>

0:09:05.000,0:09:07.080
<b>we we had a look at it it was not a</b>

0:09:07.080,0:09:09.480
<b>sharp edge i would say it's it's just</b>

0:09:09.480,0:09:12.440
<b>like a normal edge which you find like</b>

0:09:12.440,0:09:15.159
<b>in every direction, you are scaring my</b>

0:09:15.159,0:09:18.759
<b> viewers the whole rope um got got cut and</b>

0:09:18.759,0:09:20.840
<b>this brings us to a second danger for</b>

0:09:20.840,0:09:22.440
<b>climbing ropes</b>

0:09:22.440,0:09:25.320
<b>sharp rock formations so if you're a</b>

0:09:25.320,0:09:27.960
<b>sensitive person now it's a time to hold</b>

0:09:27.960,0:09:31.120
<b>my hand</b>

0:09:41.159,0:09:43.799
<b>so the climber actually survived</b>

0:09:43.799,0:09:46.840
<b>and this is an old video posted by</b>

0:09:46.840,0:09:49.399
<b>british mountaineering council</b>

0:09:49.399,0:09:54.519
<b>and i guess the clip speaks for itself</b>

0:09:56.919,0:10:00.039
<b>do you have any statistics on accidents</b>

0:10:00.039,0:10:02.679
<b>that happen due to snapping climbing</b>

0:10:02.679,0:10:05.480
<b>rope so the best statistic that i know</b>

0:10:05.480,0:10:07.320
<b>of is the one from the german alpine</b>

0:10:07.320,0:10:10.759
<b>club they actually kept the register</b>

0:10:10.759,0:10:12.840
<b>of all the rope accidents that took</b>

0:10:12.840,0:10:16.440
<b>place i think was for the last 60 years</b>

0:10:16.440,0:10:17.639
<b>there they have</b>

0:10:17.639,0:10:20.279
<b>53 cases where they know</b>

0:10:20.279,0:10:21.080
<b>why</b>

0:10:21.080,0:10:24.120
<b>the rope broke and what's the most common</b>

0:10:24.120,0:10:27.399
<b>cause sharp edges sharp edges</b>

0:10:27.399,0:10:29.000
<b>66 percent</b>

0:10:29.000,0:10:31.320
<b>so when the fall happens and you swing</b>

0:10:31.320,0:10:34.039
<b>over the sharp edge either you take a</b>

0:10:34.039,0:10:37.559
<b>fall over a sharp edge or you're lowered</b>

0:10:37.559,0:10:40.440
<b>over a sharp edge or you're</b>

0:10:40.440,0:10:42.279
<b>you know you're taking some kind of</b>

0:10:42.279,0:10:45.000
<b>swing over a sharp edge but it's not</b>

0:10:45.000,0:10:47.240
<b>only the rock formation it can also be</b>

0:10:47.240,0:10:50.600
<b>due to carabiners sharp carabiners or</b>

0:10:50.600,0:10:51.399
<b>other</b>

0:10:51.399,0:10:54.120
<b>metal objects and speaking of statistics</b>

0:10:54.120,0:10:56.279
<b>i asked my instagram followers to send</b>

0:10:56.279,0:10:59.720
<b>me stories pictures videos about rope</b>

0:10:59.720,0:11:03.399
<b>damage and while i got no complete snaps</b>

0:11:03.399,0:11:04.320
<b>i got this one</b>

0:11:04.320,0:11:06.559
<b>which looks like it got a lot of</b>

0:11:06.559,0:11:09.440
<b>abrasion and this one was hit by a rock</b>

0:11:09.440,0:11:12.000
<b>with just few strands left and this is</b>

0:11:12.000,0:11:14.399
<b>my favorite one it was actually a brand</b>

0:11:14.399,0:11:17.120
<b>new rope only three falls and the owner</b>

0:11:17.120,0:11:19.679
<b>claims that there was no sharp edges and</b>

0:11:19.679,0:11:22.320
<b>the quick draws were fine the only catch</b>

0:11:22.320,0:11:25.600
<b>with this rope was 8.9 millimeters</b>

0:11:25.600,0:11:27.919
<b>thickness only do you see a difference</b>

0:11:27.919,0:11:30.639
<b>in cut resistance among thicker ropes</b>

0:11:30.639,0:11:33.519
<b>versus thinner ropes oh yes so i mean if</b>

0:11:33.519,0:11:36.240
<b>you want a higher safety margin i mean</b>

0:11:36.240,0:11:39.200
<b>the thicker the rope is the better so</b>

0:11:39.200,0:11:42.480
<b>how much safer is let's say 9.8 rope</b>

0:11:42.480,0:11:45.759
<b>compared to 9.5 or 9.2 so turns out</b>

0:11:45.759,0:11:47.679
<b>Mammut already did the testing on this</b>

0:11:47.679,0:11:50.159
<b>where we use the same sharp carabiner</b>

0:11:50.159,0:11:53.039
<b>and checked at what fall height the rope</b>

0:11:53.039,0:11:55.279
<b>will snap and these were the results so</b>

0:11:55.279,0:11:57.600
<b>we had all heights up to five meters and</b>

0:11:57.600,0:12:01.200
<b>we tested like different rope diameters</b>

0:12:01.200,0:12:02.080
<b>and</b>

0:12:02.080,0:12:03.919
<b>like a half and twin rope and to no</b>

0:12:03.919,0:12:06.720
<b>surprise thicker ropes perform better</b>

0:12:06.720,0:12:09.440
<b>with double robes being the safest and</b>

0:12:09.440,0:12:11.759
<b>this actually brings me to a current</b>

0:12:11.759,0:12:14.480
<b>trend where people buy ultra skinny</b>

0:12:14.480,0:12:16.960
<b>ropes thinking that they are the best</b>

0:12:16.960,0:12:19.679
<b>maybe if you're not at that level where</b>

0:12:19.679,0:12:22.240
<b>it's like so so important for you every</b>

0:12:22.240,0:12:26.000
<b>gram every little millimeter of the rope</b>

0:12:26.000,0:12:27.440
<b>maybe it's not</b>

0:12:27.440,0:12:29.600
<b>important to buy the thinnest rope you</b>

0:12:29.600,0:12:32.000
<b>can on the market i mean if you can</b>

0:12:32.000,0:12:33.840
<b>i would recommend having two ropes now</b>

0:12:33.840,0:12:36.000
<b>you have the the thicker one for for</b>

0:12:36.000,0:12:38.320
<b>working out the routes and one you can</b>

0:12:38.320,0:12:39.440
<b>also</b>

0:12:39.440,0:12:41.840
<b>use when you know how you feel like oh</b>

0:12:41.840,0:12:44.240
<b>this route could be a little bit</b>

0:12:44.240,0:12:46.639
<b>sketchy there with some sharp edges then</b>

0:12:46.639,0:12:48.080
<b>you take the thick rope and then you</b>

0:12:48.080,0:12:50.559
<b>have a thinner rope which you might use</b>

0:12:50.559,0:12:51.440
<b>when you</b>

0:12:51.440,0:12:53.120
<b>already checked out the route and you</b>

0:12:53.120,0:12:55.200
<b>want to have a really good goal in</b>

0:12:55.200,0:12:57.360
<b>sanding the roots so this video is not</b>

0:12:57.360,0:12:59.679
<b>sponsored but a little disclaimer is</b>

0:12:59.679,0:13:01.759
<b>that i got these ropes for free from</b>

0:13:01.759,0:13:04.159
<b>Mammut and i have to say that climbing</b>

0:13:04.159,0:13:07.399
<b>my hardest projects on this ultra skinny</b>

0:13:07.399,0:13:11.120
<b>9.0 rope was really nice</b>

0:13:20.159,0:13:23.120
<b>however for anything new unknown my</b>

0:13:23.120,0:13:25.679
<b>go-to rope is nine and a half</b>

0:13:25.679,0:13:27.360
<b>millimeters thickness</b>

0:13:27.360,0:13:29.279
<b>and if i would have to choose just one</b>

0:13:29.279,0:13:32.080
<b>rope to own this would be it and i guess</b>

0:13:32.080,0:13:34.399
<b>if i would be climbing in some sketchier</b>

0:13:34.399,0:13:36.639
<b>places or i would be</b>

0:13:36.639,0:13:38.559
<b>heavier i hope not maybe i would</b>

0:13:38.559,0:13:41.440
<b>consider even thicker rope than that</b>

0:13:41.440,0:13:43.600
<b>it's pretty obvious that falls like this</b>

0:13:43.600,0:13:46.320
<b>should be avoided at all cost but in</b>

0:13:46.320,0:13:49.360
<b>general if the rope is running across a</b>

0:13:49.360,0:13:50.799
<b>sharp edge</b>

0:13:50.799,0:13:54.240
<b>soft dynamic delaying is actually very</b>

0:13:54.240,0:13:56.480
<b>important because if the belayer takes</b>

0:13:56.480,0:13:59.039
<b>really hard that increases the peak</b>

0:13:59.039,0:14:01.600
<b>force on the rope and also the damage</b>

0:14:01.600,0:14:04.559
<b>will be concentrated on a smaller area</b>

0:14:04.559,0:14:07.120
<b>of the rope so more things to go wrong</b>

0:14:07.120,0:14:09.519
<b>okay let's change gears you guys asked</b>

0:14:09.519,0:14:12.720
<b>me what about unicore rose sounds almost</b>

0:14:12.720,0:14:15.840
<b>like unicorn so a unicore rope has its</b>

0:14:15.840,0:14:18.639
<b>core and sheath strands kind of hooked</b>

0:14:18.639,0:14:21.679
<b>together so this is not a unicore rope</b>

0:14:21.679,0:14:25.200
<b>and if i would pull the sheath</b>

0:14:25.200,0:14:27.279
<b>you can see that they are completely</b>

0:14:27.279,0:14:30.559
<b>independent and this would not happen on</b>

0:14:30.559,0:14:33.039
<b>unicore ropes if a rope is developed</b>

0:14:33.039,0:14:35.360
<b>well the sheath and the core are</b>

0:14:35.360,0:14:38.320
<b>perfectly matched together so they can</b>

0:14:38.320,0:14:41.279
<b>move very well why don't you hook them</b>

0:14:41.279,0:14:43.759
<b>together i saw some brands doing that is</b>

0:14:43.759,0:14:46.399
<b>there any benefit of doing one or other</b>

0:14:46.399,0:14:49.919
<b>way you can do this but nowadays the</b>

0:14:49.919,0:14:52.879
<b>ropes are so well designed that</b>

0:14:52.879,0:14:55.600
<b>for example sheath slippage does not</b>

0:14:55.600,0:14:58.799
<b>occur that often anymore actually</b>

0:14:58.799,0:15:01.600
<b>on most of the ropes not most on all of</b>

0:15:01.600,0:15:03.840
<b>our ropes we have a sheath slippage of</b>

0:15:03.840,0:15:06.320
<b>zero and this is without intertwining</b>

0:15:06.320,0:15:07.919
<b>the sheath with the core what does it</b>

0:15:07.919,0:15:11.840
<b>mean zero shift slippage if you</b>

0:15:11.840,0:15:14.080
<b>pull the rope over an edge back and</b>

0:15:14.080,0:15:16.879
<b>forth how much the core</b>

0:15:16.879,0:15:19.200
<b>would move to one side or the other but</b>

0:15:19.200,0:15:20.960
<b>if it stays in place then it's well</b>

0:15:20.960,0:15:24.000
<b>balanced yeah i've seen some ropes lose</b>

0:15:24.000,0:15:26.720
<b>the core in the ends of the rope yes the</b>

0:15:26.720,0:15:29.519
<b>ends get completely soft yeah so this is</b>

0:15:29.519,0:15:31.919
<b>actually what sheath slippage is is that</b>

0:15:31.919,0:15:33.919
<b>the core and the sheath</b>

0:15:33.919,0:15:37.120
<b>don't move at the same pace basically</b>

0:15:37.120,0:15:40.000
<b>so your ropes don't do that</b>

0:15:40.000,0:15:43.360
<b>so as i understand intertwining the core</b>

0:15:43.360,0:15:46.480
<b>with sheath doesn't add much benefit for</b>

0:15:46.480,0:15:48.080
<b>sport climbers</b>

0:15:48.080,0:15:50.480
<b>however if you are ascending a rope</b>

0:15:50.480,0:15:52.480
<b>let's say you marrying a rope and your</b>

0:15:52.480,0:15:54.399
<b>sheath gets cut</b>

0:15:54.399,0:15:55.600
<b>it can</b>

0:15:55.600,0:15:57.919
<b>slide down</b>

0:15:57.919,0:16:01.159
<b>kind of</b>

0:16:01.519,0:16:03.440
<b>well it can slide down</b>

0:16:03.440,0:16:04.480
<b>here</b>

0:16:04.480,0:16:06.080
<b>this can happen</b>

0:16:06.080,0:16:08.399
<b>but this sliding would not happen on a</b>

0:16:08.399,0:16:10.559
<b>unicore rope so yeah i don't know if i'm</b>

0:16:10.559,0:16:12.720
<b>missing some benefits of unicore ropes</b>

0:16:12.720,0:16:15.360
<b>for sport climbers let me know i'm super</b>

0:16:15.360,0:16:18.080
<b>curious all right i hope that your fear</b>

0:16:18.080,0:16:20.240
<b>of falling is under control and maybe</b>

0:16:20.240,0:16:22.240
<b>you even learned something</b>

0:16:22.240,0:16:25.120
<b>and i'm gonna release more interviews</b>

0:16:25.120,0:16:27.519
<b>with Mammut engineers about some more</b>

0:16:27.519,0:16:30.320
<b>geeky topics about climbing ropes and</b>

0:16:30.320,0:16:32.480
<b>that's going to be exclusive for people</b>

0:16:32.480,0:16:35.200
<b>who are supporting my channel so if you</b>

0:16:35.200,0:16:38.240
<b>are interested in that or you just want</b>

0:16:38.240,0:16:40.480
<b>to support me consider visiting my</b>

0:16:40.480,0:16:43.039
<b>website and thank you so much and thank</b>

0:16:43.039,0:16:45.200
<b>you Mammut for inviting me and i hope</b>

0:16:45.200,0:16:47.440
<b>to come back one day why is that why</b>

0:16:47.440,0:16:50.720
<b>some ropes get stiffer and softer well</b>

0:16:50.720,0:16:54.000
<b>to answer that question like textiles is</b>

0:16:54.000,0:16:57.440
<b>a very tricky and moody raw material to</b>

0:16:57.440,0:16:59.879
<b>work with moody it's very moody</b>