[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:08.21,0:00:14.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, scientists have been warning us\Nthat we're wreaking havoc on our planet.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.93,0:00:19.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We're told about how our soil\Nis getting deteriorated
Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.80,0:00:25.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and our fresh water supply,\Nas we just heard, is getting polluted.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.82,0:00:27.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We're told about all of these problems,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:27.76,0:00:29.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we're told how\Nit's going to impact us.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.85,0:00:33.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not just our polar ice caps\Nthat are going to be melting,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:33.69,0:00:37.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it's going to impact\Nour coastal cities.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.14,0:00:39.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We're told about all of this,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:39.94,0:00:42.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but then we're not really\Ngiven many options
Dialogue: 0,0:00:42.61,0:00:44.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on what we might be able to do about it.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:44.72,0:00:49.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We're told to recycle,\Nuse fuel-efficient cars,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:49.25,0:00:52.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maybe turn the lights off\Nwhen we're leaving the room.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.75,0:00:56.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We feel powerless against this issue.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.21,0:00:57.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And it also seems
Dialogue: 0,0:00:57.42,0:01:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as if it's the responsibility\Nof government to take care of.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.92,0:01:05.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And yet we know\Nthat government is in gridlock.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:05.96,0:01:07.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So now, what are we left to do?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:08.43,0:01:13.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, what if I told you\Nthat we actually do hold the power?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:13.47,0:01:16.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that power is what we wear every day.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:16.34,0:01:17.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's our clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.88,0:01:20.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because what people haven't told you
Dialogue: 0,0:01:20.66,0:01:22.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is under the radar,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:22.13,0:01:25.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the apparel industry has actually become
Dialogue: 0,0:01:25.14,0:01:28.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the second most polluting\Nindustry in the world.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:29.83,0:01:33.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, I'd like to talk today\Nabout how we got to this place
Dialogue: 0,0:01:33.75,0:01:37.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and how we can take back control\Nand use our power
Dialogue: 0,0:01:37.57,0:01:42.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to both answer the question,\N"What am I going to wear today?"
Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.51,0:01:45.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the world's more pressing problems.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.46,0:01:49.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, it's the leadership of Ikea\Nthat recently said
Dialogue: 0,0:01:49.21,0:01:51.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we have reached peak stuff.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.60,0:01:55.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that is certainly true\Nwhen it comes to our clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:55.56,0:01:57.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You see here, in the 1960s,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:57.89,0:02:03.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the average American invested\Nin 25 new pieces of clothing every year.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:03.83,0:02:07.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A generation later, today, and we purchase
Dialogue: 0,0:02:07.89,0:02:12.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,three times as much clothing\Nas we did in the 60s.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:12.48,0:02:13.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So how did this come about?
Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.80,0:02:15.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Did we just decide one day,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.49,0:02:19.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"Oh yes, I want to purchase\Na lot more clothes of less quality.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:19.87,0:02:21.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Sign me up for that"?
Dialogue: 0,0:02:22.33,0:02:24.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It didn't happen that way.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:24.23,0:02:27.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It started as trade barriers\Nactually came down,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.27,0:02:29.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which created financial incentives
Dialogue: 0,0:02:29.44,0:02:32.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for brands to move\Ntheir production overseas.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.13,0:02:36.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this generally created a trend\Nfor cheaper and cheaper clothing
Dialogue: 0,0:02:36.18,0:02:38.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,using cheaper materials and cheap labor.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.24,0:02:41.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Meanwhile, these fast-fashion companies -
Dialogue: 0,0:02:41.79,0:02:43.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's what this industry is called -
Dialogue: 0,0:02:43.93,0:02:47.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these fast-fashion companies\Nhad huge marketing budgets
Dialogue: 0,0:02:47.42,0:02:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to try to convince all of us
Dialogue: 0,0:02:49.12,0:02:51.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that their cheap clothing\Nwas somehow covetable.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.92,0:02:56.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we bought more and more.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:57.42,0:02:59.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But more isn't always more.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:59.86,0:03:01.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You see, in the 1960s,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.32,0:03:05.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when we were investing\Nin 25 pieces of clothing -
Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.29,0:03:08.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they really were investments\Nbecause at that time,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:08.11,0:03:13.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we spent over 10% of our salary\Non clothing every year -
Dialogue: 0,0:03:14.03,0:03:19.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,95% of American clothing, what we wore,\Nwas American-made.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:19.65,0:03:22.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Today, it is less than 2%.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:23.32,0:03:27.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that drop actually\Nrepresents an 80% drop
Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.24,0:03:30.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in apparel-manufacturing\Njobs in this country.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:31.95,0:03:34.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, I'm sure we all have\Nour own experiences
Dialogue: 0,0:03:34.51,0:03:37.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of dealing with fast fashion\Nand experiencing fast fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.80,0:03:39.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I have my own.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.13,0:03:43.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Having come from Minnesota, I remember\Ngoing to New York when H&M first opened.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:43.87,0:03:47.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I was so excited, I have to admit.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:47.09,0:03:50.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I loved the size of the store\Nand the lights,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.11,0:03:52.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the smell was kind of crazy,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:53.33,0:03:55.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and there was this blasting music,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.50,0:03:57.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I just ate it up.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:57.54,0:03:59.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I bought clothes by the bagful.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.74,0:04:04.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I didn't really think that I -\Nmaybe knew what I wanted,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:04.81,0:04:08.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it didn't really seem to matter,\Nbecause the prices were just so cheap.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:08.34,0:04:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I mean, a jumpsuit for less than $20!
Dialogue: 0,0:04:12.32,0:04:16.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But what I ultimately found out\Nis that all of that cheap clothing
Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.03,0:04:18.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has huge consequences
Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.32,0:04:22.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both for the environment\Nand for the people making our clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:22.30,0:04:24.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So let's take a look at why that is.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:26.14,0:04:28.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, it turns out\Nthat the fast-fashion industry
Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.78,0:04:32.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is fuelled by a new type\Nof fiber: polyester.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:32.36,0:04:34.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can see there, there is a line:
Dialogue: 0,0:04:34.07,0:04:37.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,H&M opens in New York in 2001 -\Nthat's when I was visiting -
Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.46,0:04:42.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you can see, at that stage,\Nthat was when cotton was no longer king.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.01,0:04:46.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And just take a look\Nat the rise of polyester
Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.50,0:04:49.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as fast fashion has come onto the scene.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.91,0:04:52.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Polyester, for those that don't know,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.02,0:04:56.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is a polluting plastic\Nmade from fossil fuels.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.70,0:04:59.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And it's now in over half of our clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:00.62,0:05:03.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's talk about why\Nthat might be an issue.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.30,0:05:05.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are four primary things\Nthat we need to think about
Dialogue: 0,0:05:05.97,0:05:09.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when we think about\Nthis rise in polyester.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:09.78,0:05:12.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all, it's non-biodegradable.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.64,0:05:17.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Consider this: every piece of polyester\Nthat has ever been produced
Dialogue: 0,0:05:17.96,0:05:20.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is still on the planet today.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:20.10,0:05:21.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, when you think about the fact
Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.85,0:05:26.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that there are 150 billion\Nnew pieces of clothing
Dialogue: 0,0:05:26.04,0:05:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,being added onto the planet every year,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:28.40,0:05:31.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's a lot of plastic\Nthat's not going away.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:31.98,0:05:36.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Second: these polyester fabrics,\Nwhen you wash them,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:36.97,0:05:40.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thousands of these\Nmicroplastics are shedding,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:40.13,0:05:44.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they're entering our water systems\Nand ultimately our oceans.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:44.15,0:05:49.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And what's happening is that the fish\Nare consuming these microplastics
Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.81,0:05:52.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we are consuming the fish.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:52.63,0:05:56.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There was a recent study in California,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:56.82,0:05:59.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they went to the fish\Nmarkets in California.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:59.53,0:06:01.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And they found out that actually
Dialogue: 0,0:06:01.86,0:06:05.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one in four of the fish\Nthat are sold at the markets
Dialogue: 0,0:06:05.90,0:06:07.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,contain these microplastics.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:08.75,0:06:13.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And researchers are saying\Nthat while the big plastics you can see,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:13.38,0:06:16.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the greatest pollution\Nis actually these microfibers.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:17.57,0:06:21.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Third: have you noticed that recently,\Nyou have been sweating more?
Dialogue: 0,0:06:23.25,0:06:25.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is not just a coincidence,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:25.59,0:06:29.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because polyester, it turns out,\Nis non-breathable,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:29.09,0:06:31.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unlike the natural fibers.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:31.01,0:06:34.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, what that means is that heat\Nis trapped into your body
Dialogue: 0,0:06:34.17,0:06:36.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you sweat more.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:36.63,0:06:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Finally, polyester is extremely\Nenergy-intensive to create.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:42.16,0:06:44.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just how energy-intensive?
Dialogue: 0,0:06:44.89,0:06:46.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Take a look at this graph.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:46.55,0:06:49.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is showing the relative\Nenergy-intensiveness
Dialogue: 0,0:06:49.56,0:06:52.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to create each type of material.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:52.05,0:06:54.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This linen sweater that I am wearing
Dialogue: 0,0:06:54.25,0:06:57.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,requires just [one eighth]\Nof the amount of energy
Dialogue: 0,0:06:57.12,0:06:59.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it does to create polyester.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:00.86,0:07:06.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, now we have a tripling of the amount\Nof clothing that we buy,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:06.10,0:07:08.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this clothing is no longer made\Nfrom natural materials
Dialogue: 0,0:07:08.78,0:07:12.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but incredibly energy-intensive polyester,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:12.53,0:07:16.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and now we have to think about\Nwhere this clothing is being made.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:16.90,0:07:18.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Take a look at this graph.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:18.64,0:07:22.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This graph shows the total apparel imports\Ninto the US by volume.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:23.15,0:07:27.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You will see here that China is actually\Nour biggest trading partner on this -
Dialogue: 0,0:07:27.26,0:07:30.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a little more than 40% of our clothing\Nis coming from China.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:31.97,0:07:33.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Remember this graph,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:33.36,0:07:34.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and as I show you this one,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:34.85,0:07:36.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take a look at this map.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:36.81,0:07:37.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is a map
Dialogue: 0,0:07:37.80,0:07:40.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the energy-intensiveness\Nof the power grids
Dialogue: 0,0:07:40.68,0:07:42.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of where we're getting our clothing from.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:43.45,0:07:44.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Consider this:
Dialogue: 0,0:07:44.81,0:07:50.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in China, 3/4 of the energy supply\Nis coming from coal.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:51.60,0:07:54.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So when we are churning away\Nall of that clothing,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:54.66,0:07:57.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's coming from\Nthe dirtiest form of energy,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.96,0:07:59.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is coal.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:59.26,0:08:02.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Even in the United States, which itself\Nis not the cleanest power grid,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:02.71,0:08:07.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's not 77% as in China,\Nit is about 33%.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:07.48,0:08:10.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, now we know\Nwe're making too much clothing,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:10.69,0:08:13.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's being made of\Na very high-intensity product
Dialogue: 0,0:08:13.86,0:08:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in a place that is taking up\Na lot of energy.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:17.20,0:08:21.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And all of this is adding up\Nto the fact that the apparel industry
Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.64,0:08:25.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is responsible for 10%\Nof the total carbon output
Dialogue: 0,0:08:25.13,0:08:26.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for the entire world.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:26.89,0:08:28.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,To put that into some perspective,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:28.57,0:08:32.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that is five times more carbon output
Dialogue: 0,0:08:32.92,0:08:35.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than all airline travel combined.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:36.81,0:08:39.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But that's just the environmental impact.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:39.33,0:08:42.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now we have to consider\Nwho is making our clothes
Dialogue: 0,0:08:42.44,0:08:44.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and what is happening to them.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:44.76,0:08:48.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you remember\Nwhere our clothing is coming from,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.42,0:08:50.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now we're going to look\Nat the Department of Labor
Dialogue: 0,0:08:50.80,0:08:55.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and where they are finding\Nforced labor and child labor.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:57.07,0:09:00.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you're going to see\Nthat they match up almost exactly.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:02.90,0:09:06.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It is believed that one in six people\Naround the world
Dialogue: 0,0:09:06.57,0:09:09.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,work in some part of the apparel industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:09.02,0:09:11.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, it employs a lot of people.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:12.00,0:09:14.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,About 80% of those people are women.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:14.52,0:09:18.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And 98% of them\Nare not receiving a living wage.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:18.37,0:09:22.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What that means is they are getting\Nlocked into a channel of poverty.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:24.25,0:09:26.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, that's the bad stuff.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:27.74,0:09:29.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But it seems, in all of this,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.93,0:09:32.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that no one is really winning.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.81,0:09:35.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Nobody in the supply chain,\Nno one in the value chain
Dialogue: 0,0:09:35.62,0:09:36.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is really winning,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.62,0:09:39.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,except for maybe two CEOs\Nof fast-fashion companies.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:41.67,0:09:46.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And perhaps nobody is winning -\Neven us, the citizen consumer.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:46.65,0:09:51.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because if you take\Nthe interest in tidying up
Dialogue: 0,0:09:51.15,0:09:55.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the best-seller Marie Kondo's\NThe Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:55.91,0:10:01.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you see this explosive growth in interest\Nin cleaning all of that up.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:01.60,0:10:03.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I share that personal interest.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:03.78,0:10:08.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,After living over a decade\Nwith my fast-fashion habit,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:08.48,0:10:14.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I was so tired of shopping all the time\Nand never having anything to wear,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:14.71,0:10:18.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my closet in New York\Nbursting open with clothes,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:18.67,0:10:21.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,always trying to struggle\Nwith what I'm going to wear every day.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:21.71,0:10:23.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, one day I decided I had had enough.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:23.82,0:10:25.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I wanted to understand:
Dialogue: 0,0:10:25.59,0:10:28.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What exactly in my closet\Ndid I enjoy wearing?
Dialogue: 0,0:10:28.26,0:10:30.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And why did I enjoy wearing it?
Dialogue: 0,0:10:30.43,0:10:33.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, I was digging through things\Nand looking at tags
Dialogue: 0,0:10:33.81,0:10:35.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I started to google.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:35.74,0:10:37.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Really aggressively.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.97,0:10:42.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And what I found out is that I am\Nactually not alone in this pursuit.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.06,0:10:51.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you type in "is linen" in Google,\Nit actually autocompletes to
Dialogue: 0,0:10:51.30,0:10:53.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"is linen cotton?"
Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.59,0:10:55.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I asked that question myself.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:55.93,0:10:59.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now I know that linen is not cotton.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:59.88,0:11:02.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Linen - the sweater\Nthat I am wearing today -
Dialogue: 0,0:11:02.38,0:11:04.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comes from flax -\Nthat's the plant on the left -
Dialogue: 0,0:11:04.96,0:11:07.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and cotton is that thing on the right.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:08.65,0:11:10.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, I'm googling away,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:10.50,0:11:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it really started for me\Nwith a personal desire to buy better.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:15.76,0:11:20.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, I started to search for ethical\Nand sustainable clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:20.66,0:11:24.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But what I ended up finding,\Nafter doing further research,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:24.31,0:11:27.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that those words\Nare really unregulated.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:27.86,0:11:30.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, companies can say they are ethical,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:30.71,0:11:33.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they can show\Na picture of their factory,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:33.23,0:11:36.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but the picture is hiding a lot of things.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:36.19,0:11:41.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all, the picture doesn't say\Nanything about transparency.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.08,0:11:44.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Transparency is when a brand\Nis willing to name
Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.03,0:11:46.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the factories that they are working with,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:46.18,0:11:49.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,allowing third parties -\Ncustomers, the media -
Dialogue: 0,0:11:49.93,0:11:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to actually research\Nwhether what the brand is claiming
Dialogue: 0,0:11:53.60,0:11:55.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is actually what is taking place.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:56.75,0:12:01.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Second, the pictures do not show\Nwages or healthcare coverage.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:01.06,0:12:04.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And when you think back\Nabout how 98% of the apparel industry
Dialogue: 0,0:12:04.68,0:12:06.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not receiving a living wage,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:06.34,0:12:10.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's an incredibly important statistic\Nif you're wanting to shop ethically.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:11.26,0:12:15.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A picture also doesn't show\Nshadow factories.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:15.21,0:12:19.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Shadow factories is a situation\Nthat is happening in the apparel industry
Dialogue: 0,0:12:19.67,0:12:22.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as we have been really going\Non this race to the bottom
Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.30,0:12:28.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when a brand will meet with\Nwhat is called a "five-star factory"
Dialogue: 0,0:12:28.64,0:12:32.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they might be taking pictures\Nor doing audits of that factory,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:32.19,0:12:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it turns out actually\Nthat to get the prices
Dialogue: 0,0:12:34.80,0:12:37.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the brand is requiring
Dialogue: 0,0:12:37.13,0:12:39.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or the speed in which\Nthey need that product,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:39.62,0:12:42.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they're outsourcing that production\Nto another factory.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:42.61,0:12:44.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's called the "shadow factories,"
Dialogue: 0,0:12:44.31,0:12:46.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is where really\Nthe production is taking place.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.79,0:12:48.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And oftentimes, these shadow factories
Dialogue: 0,0:12:48.61,0:12:52.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have much lower\Nlabor and living standards.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:53.86,0:12:57.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And finally, a picture is not showing\Nmaterial sustainability.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:57.83,0:13:01.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not showing\Nwhether it's organic cotton,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:01.55,0:13:03.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that turns out to be\Nincredibly important
Dialogue: 0,0:13:03.93,0:13:08.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because cotton is the fourth largest\Npesticide-consuming crop.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:09.34,0:13:14.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's why we're having a hard time\Nwith the nutrition of our soil.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:14.59,0:13:17.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And it's not showing\Nwhether the dye stuff
Dialogue: 0,0:13:17.58,0:13:20.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is actually being handled appropriately.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:20.14,0:13:23.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, it turns out that\Nnot only is the apparel industry
Dialogue: 0,0:13:23.94,0:13:26.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,responsible for 10% of carbon output,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:27.02,0:13:30.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's also the second greatest\Npolluter of fresh water globally.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:30.71,0:13:33.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's because dye houses\Nin the developing world,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.41,0:13:37.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,90% of them dye their products
Dialogue: 0,0:13:37.06,0:13:39.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then release those effluents,\Nrelease that dye stuff
Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.67,0:13:42.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,directly into local freshwater supplies.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:45.33,0:13:49.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, as I was doing all of this research,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.15,0:13:53.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my research entered a Google document
Dialogue: 0,0:13:53.63,0:13:56.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I just became really frustrated\Nby the whole thing.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:56.54,0:14:01.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I became frustrated because I saw\Nwhile we had this interest in food
Dialogue: 0,0:14:01.78,0:14:04.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we now had organic food options
Dialogue: 0,0:14:04.19,0:14:06.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we had farm-to-table restaurants,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:06.57,0:14:10.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there really wasn't a resource that was\Nputting all of this stuff together.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:10.73,0:14:12.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And as I was putting\Nthese pieces together,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:12.76,0:14:15.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I just saw how huge the problem was.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:16.12,0:14:18.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And so, it was really that frustration
Dialogue: 0,0:14:18.80,0:14:21.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that became the impetus to create Zady.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:21.41,0:14:24.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I wanted a place\Nthat distilled that information
Dialogue: 0,0:14:24.44,0:14:26.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and provided an alternative.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:26.66,0:14:28.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, along with a researcher,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:28.55,0:14:33.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we translated that disparate\Ninformation on the Google doc
Dialogue: 0,0:14:33.14,0:14:37.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to a plan on how we can actually create\Nsustainable clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:37.89,0:14:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because there isn't an organic standard\Nin the apparel industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:42.16,0:14:46.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There aren't the equivalent\Nof LEED-certified factories,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:46.40,0:14:48.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so we really had to\Ndo it all from scratch.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:48.98,0:14:50.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is what we came up with.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:51.54,0:14:53.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's called the "new standard."
Dialogue: 0,0:14:53.54,0:14:56.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all, we think about\Nuser-centered design.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:57.30,0:15:02.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A common theme in this fast fashion is\Nthat it's all about what can be sold to us
Dialogue: 0,0:15:02.12,0:15:04.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the marketing that can be done to us,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:04.07,0:15:05.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but unlike technology,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:05.16,0:15:07.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's really not designed for us at all.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:08.29,0:15:10.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And so, that's the most important thing:
Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.52,0:15:11.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we're thinking about
Dialogue: 0,0:15:11.87,0:15:14.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what is somebody doing in their day,\Nwhere are they going,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:14.61,0:15:17.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and what is the cut and material\Nthat is going to fit them best.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:17.73,0:15:21.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then we use natural materials\Nand we work directly with our suppliers
Dialogue: 0,0:15:21.41,0:15:24.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from the farm all the way\Nthrough the supply chain.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:24.96,0:15:27.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's important,\Nbecause 90% of brands
Dialogue: 0,0:15:27.25,0:15:29.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually don't know\Nwhere their material is coming from.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:30.62,0:15:34.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Finally, we have an open-door policy\Nwith our manufacturers,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:34.05,0:15:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we do all of our\Nproduction domestically.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.88,0:15:40.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In that way, we can see\Nwhether our production
Dialogue: 0,0:15:40.67,0:15:44.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is actually taking place\Nin the place that we've contracted with.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:48.34,0:15:53.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, our idea with the "new standard"\Nand creating the Zady collection
Dialogue: 0,0:15:53.62,0:15:55.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was to show an alternative,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:55.64,0:15:58.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we really can love our clothes again.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:59.07,0:16:01.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that brings me back to us.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:01.30,0:16:03.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The citizen consumer.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:03.29,0:16:05.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because what I have\Nrealized in all of this
Dialogue: 0,0:16:05.38,0:16:07.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that we hold the power.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:07.62,0:16:10.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if we see ourselves\Nas citizen consumers,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:10.81,0:16:13.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and if we vote with our dollars,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:13.99,0:16:15.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we can change the industry
Dialogue: 0,0:16:15.31,0:16:17.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because they're just\Nfollowing what we're doing.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:18.77,0:16:21.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And so, as a citizen consumer,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:21.07,0:16:23.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,these are some of the things\Nthat you can do.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:23.60,0:16:26.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First, just check the tags;\Nthat's where it started with me.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:26.97,0:16:29.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Understand where\Nyour clothing is coming from
Dialogue: 0,0:16:29.16,0:16:30.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and what it is made out of.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:30.54,0:16:33.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That already can advance things a lot.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:33.07,0:16:35.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Second, check the seams of the clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:36.11,0:16:39.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In a lot of fast fashion,\Nif you turn it inside out,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:39.01,0:16:41.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even in the dressing room\Nbefore you have even left the store,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:41.95,0:16:43.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,those seams are already coming apart.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:43.75,0:16:45.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So you can really see
Dialogue: 0,0:16:45.17,0:16:48.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whether this is something\Nthat's going to last a long time.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:48.45,0:16:49.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Third and most importantly,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:49.87,0:16:51.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,love what you buy.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:51.28,0:16:52.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There's so much marketing dollars
Dialogue: 0,0:16:52.98,0:16:55.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,being used to convince us\Nthat we like something
Dialogue: 0,0:16:55.78,0:16:58.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we don't really get\Nto focus on what is our style,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:58.53,0:17:01.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what do we really like,\Nwhat do we really enjoy.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:01.02,0:17:03.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If we focus on loving what we buy,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:03.89,0:17:07.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we're going to end up buying less\Nand enjoying it better.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:07.81,0:17:09.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And finally, as a citizen consumer,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:09.81,0:17:13.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you have the power to ask questions.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:13.13,0:17:14.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You have the right to ask questions.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.87,0:17:16.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ask if the material is organic.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.59,0:17:18.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ask what the names of the factories are.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:19.19,0:17:21.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ask if the mills are certified -
Dialogue: 0,0:17:21.11,0:17:24.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are they dealing with\Ntheir dye and water appropriately?
Dialogue: 0,0:17:24.88,0:17:28.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And think of your purchases\Nin terms of cost per wear.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:28.67,0:17:31.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Think of it like an accountant\Nwould think of these things.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:32.08,0:17:34.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In that way, you're not stuck\Njust on the price tag,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:34.72,0:17:38.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but you can see your clothing\Nas an investment in the long term.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:39.76,0:17:44.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because this chaotic\Nand polluting and unjust system
Dialogue: 0,0:17:44.11,0:17:47.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is really entirely\Nwithin our hands to control.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:47.49,0:17:50.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And what we as consumer citizens\Nchoose to purchase
Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.62,0:17:53.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dictates what direction the industry goes.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:53.86,0:17:57.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If we use our dollars\Nto support that effort,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:57.19,0:17:59.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to support slow fashion,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:59.27,0:18:02.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we might find that\Nwe feel better in our clothes,
Dialogue: 0,0:18:02.14,0:18:05.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we'll be using our power\Nto clean up the planet.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:05.51,0:18:06.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Thanks.
Dialogue: 0,0:18:06.48,0:18:08.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(Applause)