1 00:00:01,598 --> 00:00:03,785 Somos constantemente bombardeados pela mídia 2 00:00:03,785 --> 00:00:06,553 que nos pressiona a comprar roupas novas e modernas 3 00:00:06,764 --> 00:00:09,415 que logo são jogadas fora quando já não estão na moda. 4 00:00:09,892 --> 00:00:14,089 Estima-se que 93 milhões de toneladas acabam em aterros ou são queimadas por ano 5 00:00:14,150 --> 00:00:19,328 "E isso é aproximadamente um caminhão cheio de roupas 6 00:00:19,328 --> 00:00:22,192 a cada segundo indo para os aterros. 7 00:00:22,192 --> 00:00:23,332 A cada segundo." 8 00:00:23,449 --> 00:00:26,792 A produção de roupas também polui a nossa água e libera CO2. 9 00:00:26,859 --> 00:00:29,186 O modelo de fast fashion lançado pela Zara 10 00:00:29,186 --> 00:00:32,619 indica que as marcas estão despejando o dobro da quantia anual de roupas 11 00:00:32,619 --> 00:00:34,093 como fizeram no começo dos anos 2000. 12 00:00:34,093 --> 00:00:35,995 Mas as empresas dizem que isso mudará 13 00:00:35,995 --> 00:00:38,362 pois agora podemos comprar fast fashion ecológica. 14 00:00:38,431 --> 00:00:41,288 E que podemos reciclar nossas roupas quando não as queremos. 15 00:00:41,543 --> 00:00:43,020 Mas podemos acreditar nelas? 16 00:00:50,057 --> 00:00:51,921 Inditex, empresa-mãe da Zara, 17 00:00:51,921 --> 00:00:52,928 e o grupo H&M 18 00:00:52,928 --> 00:00:55,452 são duas das maiores distribuidoras de moda do mundo 19 00:00:55,452 --> 00:00:57,599 e ambas têm coleções que propõem redução 20 00:00:57,599 --> 00:00:59,628 do impacto ambiental da produção de roupas 21 00:00:59,628 --> 00:01:01,576 Além disso, as duas gigantes da moda 22 00:01:01,576 --> 00:01:04,246 afirmam estar deixando suas marcas mais sustentáveis. 23 00:01:05,518 --> 00:01:08,685 Vamos analisar essas promessas, começando com os materiais. 24 00:01:08,685 --> 00:01:10,309 [MATERIAIS] 25 00:01:11,031 --> 00:01:15,159 Os materiais mais usados pela Zara e H&M, bem como ao redor do mundo são: poliéster, 26 00:01:15,159 --> 00:01:18,761 que é cerca de 52% da produção total de fibras têxteis, 27 00:01:18,761 --> 00:01:21,374 e de algodão, que está por volta de 24%. 28 00:01:21,500 --> 00:01:23,929 PET é um outro tipo de poliéster 29 00:01:23,929 --> 00:01:26,839 e é do mesmo tipo de plástico encontrado em garrafas plásticas 30 00:01:27,109 --> 00:01:28,887 Atualmente, 31 00:01:28,887 --> 00:01:31,718 60% da produção de PET vai para os produtos têxteis, 32 00:01:31,718 --> 00:01:33,906 e apenas 30% para garrafas de água. 33 00:01:35,313 --> 00:01:37,355 O material é produzido do petróleo, 34 00:01:37,355 --> 00:01:39,167 e o processo utiliza muita energia 35 00:01:39,167 --> 00:01:40,517 e libera CO2, 36 00:01:40,517 --> 00:01:43,670 bem como ácidos e amônia na água. 37 00:01:44,360 --> 00:01:48,968 Poliéster reciclado consome até 60% menos energia que o material novo 38 00:01:48,968 --> 00:01:51,070 e pode ser feito de pedaços de tecido 39 00:01:51,070 --> 00:01:52,336 ou lixo plástico. 40 00:01:52,758 --> 00:01:56,453 Mas inconsistências nas tramas podem necessitar de mais corante. 41 00:01:56,873 --> 00:01:57,876 E especialistas dizem 42 00:01:57,876 --> 00:02:01,699 que tecidos de poliéster podem soltar 700.000 fibras microplásticas 43 00:02:01,699 --> 00:02:03,062 a cada lavagem, 44 00:02:03,062 --> 00:02:04,764 estas que param no oceano, 45 00:02:04,764 --> 00:02:06,226 assim como em nossa comida. 46 00:02:08,658 --> 00:02:10,329 O Algodão não tem esse problema, 47 00:02:10,329 --> 00:02:12,780 mas também gera químicos e usa intensamente água 48 00:02:12,910 --> 00:02:15,237 De acordo com a World Wide Fund for Nature, 49 00:02:15,237 --> 00:02:19,141 são necessários 20.000L de água para fazer 1Kg de algodão, 50 00:02:19,141 --> 00:02:21,861 o que equivale a uma camiseta e um par de jeans. 51 00:02:22,630 --> 00:02:27,239 Além disso, cerca de 11% dos pesticidas são usados nos campos de algodão. 52 00:02:27,415 --> 00:02:28,800 O algodão orgânico é melhor? 53 00:02:28,800 --> 00:02:30,896 "Existe uma diferença extrema 54 00:02:30,896 --> 00:02:32,733 entre o algodão e o algodão orgânico". 55 00:02:33,200 --> 00:02:36,079 Essa é a Suki, uma representante da Fashion Revolution, 56 00:02:36,079 --> 00:02:38,395 que é uma organização que defende mundialmente 57 00:02:38,395 --> 00:02:41,501 a transparência e sustentabilidade na indústria da moda 58 00:02:42,418 --> 00:02:48,019 "Algodão orgânico é, a longo prazo, muito melhor para o produtor, 59 00:02:48,019 --> 00:02:51,158 para o meio ambiente e para o solo, 60 00:02:51,158 --> 00:02:54,001 além de requerer menos água 61 00:02:54,001 --> 00:02:56,801 e de, assim, não precisar tanto de irrigação." 62 00:02:57,243 --> 00:02:59,003 Nós pedimos uma entrevista com a H&M 63 00:02:59,003 --> 00:03:01,007 sobre a sustentabilidade de seus produtos, 64 00:03:01,007 --> 00:03:02,008 mas eles negaram. 65 00:03:02,008 --> 00:03:03,063 Por email, disseram: 66 00:03:03,063 --> 00:03:05,397 "Estamos felizes em dizer que até o final do ano, 67 00:03:05,397 --> 00:03:07,933 todo algodão que usamos virá de fontes sustentáveis. 68 00:03:07,933 --> 00:03:10,862 Zara também respondeu apenas por email, dizendo 69 00:03:10,862 --> 00:03:14,888 "Em 2019, o Grupo (Inditex) 70 00:03:14,888 --> 00:03:18,450 utilizou cerca de 38.000 toneladas de algodão orgânico em suas roupas, 71 00:03:18,450 --> 00:03:20,851 um aumento de 105% se comparado a 2018." 72 00:03:21,842 --> 00:03:23,996 Mas o que sustentabilidade significa, afinal? 73 00:03:24,386 --> 00:03:27,434 74 00:03:27,660 --> 00:03:30,975 75 00:03:30,975 --> 00:03:34,280 76 00:03:37,540 --> 00:03:39,484 77 00:03:39,484 --> 00:03:42,452 78 00:03:42,452 --> 00:03:46,084 79 00:03:46,084 --> 00:03:49,220 80 00:03:49,220 --> 00:03:51,946 81 00:03:51,946 --> 00:03:54,265 82 00:03:54,265 --> 00:03:55,979 83 00:03:59,041 --> 00:04:01,648 84 00:04:01,648 --> 00:04:02,935 85 00:04:02,935 --> 00:04:05,103 86 00:04:05,383 --> 00:04:08,142 87 00:04:08,142 --> 00:04:12,917 88 00:04:13,127 --> 00:04:14,469 89 00:04:16,253 --> 00:04:17,742 90 00:04:18,202 --> 00:04:20,122 91 00:04:20,122 --> 00:04:23,124 92 00:04:23,578 --> 00:04:27,498 93 00:04:27,692 --> 00:04:30,778 94 00:04:30,778 --> 00:04:33,261 95 00:04:33,441 --> 00:04:35,091 96 00:04:35,091 --> 00:04:36,552 97 00:04:37,246 --> 00:04:39,489 98 00:04:39,489 --> 00:04:43,390 99 00:04:43,390 --> 00:04:46,748 100 00:04:47,538 --> 00:04:49,600 101 00:04:49,600 --> 00:04:52,242 102 00:04:52,242 --> 00:04:54,970 103 00:04:54,970 --> 00:04:58,390 104 00:04:58,650 --> 00:05:01,735 105 00:05:01,735 --> 00:05:03,550 106 00:05:03,991 --> 00:05:05,510 107 00:05:07,339 --> 00:05:11,846 108 00:05:11,956 --> 00:05:15,841 109 00:05:15,841 --> 00:05:19,313 110 00:05:19,470 --> 00:05:21,141 111 00:05:21,141 --> 00:05:23,150 112 00:05:23,560 --> 00:05:25,532 113 00:05:27,008 --> 00:05:28,522 114 00:05:29,283 --> 00:05:31,538 115 00:05:31,538 --> 00:05:33,893 116 00:05:33,893 --> 00:05:36,790 117 00:05:37,437 --> 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147 00:06:58,613 --> 00:07:00,660 148 00:07:00,660 --> 00:07:02,617 149 00:07:02,617 --> 00:07:05,475 150 00:07:06,136 --> 00:07:07,900 151 00:07:07,900 --> 00:07:11,588 152 00:07:11,588 --> 00:07:14,181 153 00:07:14,181 --> 00:07:15,899 154 00:07:15,899 --> 00:07:18,518 155 00:07:18,518 --> 00:07:20,365 156 00:07:20,661 --> 00:07:23,942 157 00:07:23,942 --> 00:07:25,736 158 00:07:25,736 --> 00:07:28,880 159 00:07:29,090 --> 00:07:30,192 160 00:07:30,192 --> 00:07:33,983 161 00:07:33,983 --> 00:07:36,320 162 00:07:36,890 --> 00:07:38,138 163 00:07:38,138 --> 00:07:41,467 164 00:07:42,259 --> 00:07:43,469 165 00:07:43,469 --> 00:07:45,421 166 00:07:45,421 --> 00:07:47,559 167 00:07:47,559 --> 00:07:49,966 168 00:07:49,966 --> 00:07:52,396 169 00:07:52,396 --> 00:07:54,206 170 00:07:54,923 --> 00:07:56,832 171 00:07:56,832 --> 00:07:59,414 172 00:07:59,414 --> 00:08:01,752 173 00:08:01,752 --> 00:08:03,918 174 00:08:05,091 --> 00:08:06,456 175 00:08:06,673 --> 00:08:09,687 176 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--> 00:09:39,272 206 00:09:39,272 --> 00:09:44,399 207 00:09:45,550 --> 00:09:49,360 208 00:09:49,360 --> 00:09:51,398 209 00:09:51,398 --> 00:09:53,587 210 00:09:53,587 --> 00:09:58,313 211 00:09:58,313 --> 00:10:01,913 212 00:10:01,913 --> 00:10:03,248 213 00:10:03,248 --> 00:10:04,283 214 00:10:04,667 --> 00:10:07,218 215 00:10:07,973 --> 00:10:10,817 216 00:10:10,817 --> 00:10:15,117 217 00:10:15,117 --> 00:10:18,742 218 00:10:18,940 --> 00:10:22,068 219 00:10:22,068 --> 00:10:24,683 220 00:10:25,890 --> 00:10:28,000 221 00:10:28,000 --> 00:10:29,760 222 00:10:29,760 --> 00:10:33,308 223 00:10:35,321 --> 00:10:40,560 224 00:10:42,121 --> 00:10:45,810 225 00:10:45,810 --> 00:10:51,478 226 00:10:51,478 --> 00:10:52,604 227 00:10:52,604 --> 00:10:55,886 228 00:10:56,534 --> 00:10:58,943 229 00:10:58,943 --> 00:11:02,306 230 00:11:03,300 --> 00:11:05,820 231 00:11:05,820 --> 00:11:09,482 232 00:11:09,482 --> 00:11:12,365 233 00:11:12,365 --> 00:11:13,968 234 00:11:14,126 --> 00:11:15,886 235 00:11:15,886 --> 00:11:18,976 236 00:11:18,976 --> 00:11:21,024 237 00:11:21,302 --> 00:11:22,737 238 00:11:22,737 --> 00:11:26,252 239 00:11:26,252 --> 00:11:28,486 240 00:11:28,486 --> 00:11:31,012 241 00:11:31,012 --> 00:11:33,536 242 00:11:33,536 --> 00:11:36,822 243 00:11:36,822 --> 00:11:37,869 244 00:11:38,499 --> 00:11:41,620 245 00:11:41,620 --> 00:11:43,007 246 00:11:43,007 --> 00:11:45,817 247 00:11:47,825 --> 00:11:50,259 248 00:11:50,259 --> 00:11:53,092 249 00:11:53,676 --> 00:11:55,642 250 00:11:55,642 --> 00:11:58,613 251 00:12:00,270 --> 00:12:02,029 "Quando olhamos para situação toda, 252 00:12:02,029 --> 00:12:07,009 penso que talvez somente o consumidor final possa agitar as marcas, 253 00:12:07,009 --> 00:12:09,195 podendo empurrá-las, 254 00:12:09,195 --> 00:12:13,362 colocando pressão para fazerem mudança 255 00:12:14,107 --> 00:12:17,954 Então não se pergunte somente quem fez suas roupas e do que são feitas, 256 00:12:17,954 --> 00:12:20,366 mas também, "Preciso dessas roupas novas?" 257 00:12:20,676 --> 00:12:22,258 E, então, ir pode esse caminho. 258 00:12:23,599 --> 00:12:25,693 Se você quer ver mais vídeos como este, 259 00:12:25,693 --> 00:12:27,970 postamos sobre tópicos ambientais às sextas. 260 00:12:28,060 --> 00:12:30,010 Curta e se inscreva para não perder. 261 00:12:30,010 --> 00:12:31,673 Legendas por Maurício Kakauei Tanaka