[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:01.71,0:00:03.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We’re constantly bombarded with media
Dialogue: 0,0:00:03.48,0:00:06.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that puts pressure on us\Nto buy newer and trendier clothes.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:06.76,0:00:09.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just to throw them away\Nwhen they’re no longer in style.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:09.89,0:00:14.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,An estimated 93 million tons\Ngo to landfill or are burned every year.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.15,0:00:19.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,“And that’s roughly\Nabout a garbage truckload of textiles,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.33,0:00:22.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,every second going to landfill.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:22.19,0:00:23.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Every second!”
Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.45,0:00:26.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Producing clothes also pollutes\Nour water and churns out CO2.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.86,0:00:29.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The fast fashion model pioneered by Zara
Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.19,0:00:32.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,means that brands are churning out\Ndouble the amount of clothing per year
Dialogue: 0,0:00:32.62,0:00:34.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as they did in the early 2000s.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:34.09,0:00:35.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But companies say that’s about to change
Dialogue: 0,0:00:35.100,0:00:38.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because we can now\Nbuy eco-friendly fast fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.43,0:00:41.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And also recycle our clothes\Nwhen we don’t want them anymore.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.54,0:00:43.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But can we believe them?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.06,0:00:51.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Inditex, Zara’s parent company,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:51.92,0:00:52.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and H&M Group
Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.93,0:00:55.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are two of the biggest\Nfashion retailers in the world,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:55.45,0:00:57.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and both have collections\Nthat claim to reduce
Dialogue: 0,0:00:57.60,0:00:59.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the environmental impact\Nof making clothes.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.63,0:01:01.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Not only that, but the two fashion giants
Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.58,0:01:04.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,say they are making\Ntheir entire brands more sustainable.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:05.52,0:01:08.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let’s take a look at these promises,\Nstarting with the materials.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:08.68,0:01:10.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[MATERIALS]
Dialogue: 0,0:01:11.03,0:01:15.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Main materials at Zara & H&M,\Nas well as worldwide, are polyester,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:15.16,0:01:18.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which accounts for around 52%\Nof total fiber production,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:18.76,0:01:21.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and cotton, which is around 24%.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.50,0:01:23.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,PET is a different name for polyester
Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.93,0:01:26.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and is the same type of plastic\Nthat's found in water bottles.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.11,0:01:28.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Actually,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:28.89,0:01:31.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,60% of PET production goes to textiles,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:31.72,0:01:33.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and only 30% to water bottles.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.31,0:01:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The material is produced from petroleum,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:37.36,0:01:39.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the process uses lots of energy
Dialogue: 0,0:01:39.17,0:01:40.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and releases CO2,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.52,0:01:43.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as well as acids and ammonia\Ninto the water supply.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:44.36,0:01:48.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Recycled polyester uses up to 60%\Nless energy than virgin material
Dialogue: 0,0:01:48.97,0:01:51.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and can be made from textile scraps
Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.07,0:01:52.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or plastic trash.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:52.76,0:01:56.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But inconsistencies in the threads\Ncan make it require more dye,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:56.87,0:01:57.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and experts say
Dialogue: 0,0:01:57.88,0:02:01.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that polyester fabrics can shed\N700,000 microplastic fibers
Dialogue: 0,0:02:01.70,0:02:03.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with every wash,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:03.06,0:02:04.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which end up in the ocean,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.76,0:02:06.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and also in our food.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.66,0:02:10.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Cotton doesn't have these problems,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:10.33,0:02:12.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but is still a chemical\Nand water intensive crop.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:12.91,0:02:15.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,According to the World Wide\NFund for Nature,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.24,0:02:19.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it takes 20,000 liters of water\Nto make one kilo of cotton,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:19.14,0:02:21.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is enough for one T-shirt\Nand a pair of jeans.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:22.63,0:02:27.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Also, around 11% of the world’s pesticides\Nare used on cotton fields.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.42,0:02:28.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So is organic cotton better?
Dialogue: 0,0:02:28.84,0:02:32.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"Essentially there's a massive difference\Nbetween organic cotton and cotton."
Dialogue: 0,0:02:33.20,0:02:36.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is Suki, a representative\Nof Fashion Revolution,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:36.08,0:02:38.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is an organization\Nthat advocates worldwide
Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.40,0:02:41.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for transparency and sustainability\Nin the fashion industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.42,0:02:48.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,“Organic cotton is, in the long term,\Nmuch better for the farmer that grows it
Dialogue: 0,0:02:48.02,0:02:51.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the environment\Nand the soil that produces it,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:51.16,0:02:54.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's less water intensive
Dialogue: 0,0:02:54.00,0:02:56.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and doesn't require\Nas much irrigation as such.”
Dialogue: 0,0:02:57.30,0:02:59.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We requested an interview with H&M
Dialogue: 0,0:02:59.00,0:03:01.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about the sustainability\Nof their products,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.01,0:03:02.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but they declined.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:02.01,0:03:03.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Over email they said,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:03.01,0:03:05.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"We are happy to say\Nthat by the end of this year,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.35,0:03:07.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all cotton we use will come\Nfrom sustainable sources."
Dialogue: 0,0:03:07.93,0:03:10.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Zara also responded\Nonly through email, saying,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:10.86,0:03:14.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"In 2019, the Group [Inditex,\NZara's parent company]
Dialogue: 0,0:03:14.89,0:03:18.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,used over 38,000 tonnes\Nof sustainable cotton in its clothing,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:18.45,0:03:20.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(up 105% from 2018)."
Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.84,0:03:23.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But what does sustainable actually mean?
Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.39,0:03:27.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There’s no standard definition,\Nand it doesn’t equal organic.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.66,0:03:30.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,H&M says that sustainable cotton\Ncan also mean recycled
Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.98,0:03:34.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or cotton that uses\Nless pesticides and GMOs.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.54,0:03:39.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Zara portrays its cotton as sustainable,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.48,0:03:42.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but calls it ecologically grown\Ninstead of organic.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:42.45,0:03:46.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It claims the cotton uses\Nnatural fertilizers and pesticides,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.08,0:03:49.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and is certified\Nby the Organic Content Standard
Dialogue: 0,0:03:49.22,0:03:51.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the Global Organic Textile Standard,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:51.95,0:03:54.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which say they control\Nfor chemical and water use
Dialogue: 0,0:03:54.26,0:03:55.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the whole production process.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.04,0:04:01.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Terms like "conscious"\Nand "ecologically grown"
Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.65,0:04:02.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are hard to fact-check,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.94,0:04:05.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as well as confusing for the consumer.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:05.38,0:04:08.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But according to the non-profit\NTextile Exchange,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:08.14,0:04:12.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in 2016, H&M was the second largest\Nuser of organic cotton in the world.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.13,0:04:14.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Zara was the fourth.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.25,0:04:17.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let’s focus on synthetics.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.20,0:04:20.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In H&M's sustainable collection,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:20.12,0:04:23.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the synthetic clothing has to be\Nat least 50% recycled.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:23.58,0:04:27.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Zara doesn’t specify their percentage,\Nand their labeling can be confusing.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.69,0:04:30.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This jacket says\Nit’s 100% recycled polyamide,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:30.78,0:04:33.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which makes it seem like\Nit’s completely recycled.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:33.44,0:04:35.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But the filling is polyester.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:35.09,0:04:36.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That’s a different material.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.25,0:04:39.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this isn’t the only time this happens.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:39.49,0:04:43.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The percentage recycled statement\Noften doesn’t refer to the whole garment,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.39,0:04:46.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,making it look like the item\Nis more recycled than it actually is.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:47.54,0:04:49.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,On the subject of transparent labeling,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.60,0:04:52.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Join Life tags\Nare also on the Zara website
Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.24,0:04:54.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and are stamped by\Nthe Forest Stewardship Council.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:54.97,0:04:58.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This would seem to imply the clothing\Nis certified by this organization.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.65,0:05:01.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The stamp, however,\Nis only referring to the tag,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:01.74,0:05:03.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not to the whole clothing item.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.99,0:05:05.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Talk about misleading.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:07.34,0:05:11.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Zara has committed to sustainable cotton\Nand polyester by 2025.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:11.96,0:05:15.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,H&M says all of their materials\Nto be sustainable by 2030,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:15.84,0:05:19.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and for 2019, that figure\Nwas already at 57%.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:19.48,0:05:21.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If they stick to these commitments,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.15,0:05:23.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it could mean big changes\Nfor the industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:23.56,0:05:25.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But material is only part of the story.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:27.01,0:05:28.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[SUPPLY CHAIN TRANSPARENCY]
Dialogue: 0,0:05:29.28,0:05:31.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,To find out if that cotton\Nis actually organic,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:31.54,0:05:33.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or that polyester is actually recycled,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:33.89,0:05:36.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,consumers need to be able\Nto check the production process.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.44,0:05:39.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,With an H&M Conscious T-shirt,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.33,0:05:40.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can find out
Dialogue: 0,0:05:40.33,0:05:42.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in which specific factory it was made
Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.28,0:05:45.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so it’s theoretically possible\Nto check the factory’s sustainability.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.09,0:05:49.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Zara only lists how many suppliers\Nit has in one city,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.06,0:05:50.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but not their names and addresses.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:51.40,0:05:53.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They were both evaluated\Nby Fashion Revolution,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.93,0:05:56.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,an organization advocating\Nfor transparency
Dialogue: 0,0:05:56.06,0:05:57.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and sustainability in fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.31,0:06:02.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,None of the 250 large brands\Nscored over 80%,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:02.02,0:06:06.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but for 2020, H&M was the highest\Nscoring brand, with 73%,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:06.15,0:06:07.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so quite transparent.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:07.57,0:06:09.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Zara scored a 43%.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:09.65,0:06:10.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Not so much.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:10.78,0:06:12.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is important because:
Dialogue: 0,0:06:13.50,0:06:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"Suppliers are one of the few stakeholders
Dialogue: 0,0:06:15.76,0:06:18.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with a front row seat\Nto brands' inner workings."
Dialogue: 0,0:06:18.46,0:06:20.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Kim has a background in human rights
Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.18,0:06:22.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and was a garment\Nfactory manager in Cambodia.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:22.95,0:06:26.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"They uniquely have access\Nto the information that consumers
Dialogue: 0,0:06:26.99,0:06:31.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need to be able to crosscheck\Nbrands' actions against their words."
Dialogue: 0,0:06:31.46,0:06:33.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So being able to research suppliers
Dialogue: 0,0:06:33.38,0:06:37.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,allows people to hold brands accountable\Nto their sustainability claims, but -
Dialogue: 0,0:06:37.25,0:06:40.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"Just because you're transparent,\Nit does not mean you're sustainable,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:40.83,0:06:42.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It does not mean that at all.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:42.62,0:06:44.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's really, really important."
Dialogue: 0,0:06:45.02,0:06:47.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Even for brands [that] know\Ntheir whole supply chain,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:47.49,0:06:49.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,making an eco-friendly garment is hard.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:50.62,0:06:52.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Jessie Li: Let's pick up a denim.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:52.42,0:06:56.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can see the dyeing is done\Nin a more environmentally responsible way,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:56.12,0:06:58.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but the cotton is not produced the same.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:58.61,0:07:00.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: Jessie has worked\Nin different industries
Dialogue: 0,0:07:00.66,0:07:02.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from product inspection to purchasing,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:02.62,0:07:05.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to product development,\Nin both China and Cambodia.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:06.14,0:07:07.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,JL: Or take another example.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:07.90,0:07:11.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The whole piece of the clothes\Nis made out of the waste,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:11.59,0:07:14.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but not dyed in a responsible way.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:14.18,0:07:15.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, they're green,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.90,0:07:18.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it's different degrees of green
Dialogue: 0,0:07:18.52,0:07:20.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or different degrees of less bad.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:20.71,0:07:23.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: Because an item of clothing\Nis made up of many different materials
Dialogue: 0,0:07:23.94,0:07:25.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all manufactured in different ways,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:25.74,0:07:28.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it’s hard to make each piece\Nless harmful to the environment.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.09,0:07:30.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is also the reason
Dialogue: 0,0:07:30.19,0:07:33.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,why recycling clothing is much harder\Nthan H&M and Zara would seem to claim.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:33.98,0:07:36.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[RECYCLING]
Dialogue: 0,0:07:36.89,0:07:38.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: H&M’s advertisements
Dialogue: 0,0:07:38.14,0:07:41.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,say that the company is working\Ntowards a circular future for clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.26,0:07:43.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,According to the website,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:43.47,0:07:45.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can bring your clothing to any store,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.42,0:07:47.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it will be resold\Nas second-hand clothing,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:47.56,0:07:49.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,reused as other textiles, or recycled.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:54.92,0:07:56.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Zara has a similar campaign.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.83,0:07:59.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It says it partners\Nwith different local organizations,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:59.41,0:08:01.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which then take over\Nwhat happens to the clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:05.09,0:08:06.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So what does happen?
Dialogue: 0,0:08:06.67,0:08:09.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They are resold, reused, and recycled,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:09.69,0:08:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but not in the proportions\Nyou might think.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.94,0:08:14.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Over half of donated clothing\Nis sold overseas.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:15.21,0:08:18.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The rest is mostly turned\Ninto industrial material,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:18.23,0:08:20.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,burned, or goes to landfill.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:22.29,0:08:25.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Less than 1% of the material\Nin used clothing
Dialogue: 0,0:08:25.49,0:08:27.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is recycled into new clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.34,0:08:29.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A big reason is lack of technology.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:29.79,0:08:32.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Remember how many materials\Nwere in the jacket?
Dialogue: 0,0:08:32.20,0:08:34.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, they need to come out\Nagain to recycle it.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.48,0:08:39.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Maxi Bohn: "Garments\Nthat are made from mono materials,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:39.57,0:08:43.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or can easily be taken apart into pieces,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:44.91,0:08:48.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can be recycled.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:48.74,0:08:51.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: Maxi started her career\Nas a certified dressmaker
Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.26,0:08:52.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,over ten years ago
Dialogue: 0,0:08:52.61,0:08:56.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and has headed product development\Nfor Hugo Boss and major online retailers.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:56.92,0:08:58.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,MB: But think about your wardrobe.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:58.63,0:09:02.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How many pieces would fulfill\Nthese requirements?
Dialogue: 0,0:09:03.19,0:09:06.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: So giving back clothing\Nis better than throwing it away,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:06.10,0:09:08.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but the chances of it\Nactually getting recycled
Dialogue: 0,0:09:08.42,0:09:09.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are very low.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:11.51,0:09:14.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,H&M and Zara are investing\Nin recycling research,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:14.21,0:09:16.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but we looked at their annual reports,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.02,0:09:20.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the amount is 0.5% and 0.02%\Nof their profits, respectively.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.26,0:09:23.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They say returning clothes is circular,\Nwhich isn’t really true.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.26,0:09:24.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And even if it were -
Dialogue: 0,0:09:24.35,0:09:27.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,“That's not the solution\Nto our overconsumption.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:28.46,0:09:29.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or our overproduction.”
Dialogue: 0,0:09:30.74,0:09:33.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: The problem is that too much clothing\Nis produced, and bought,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:33.79,0:09:35.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,whether the clothing\Nis eco-friendly or not.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.39,0:09:39.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,“Let's just say you're putting\None person here who says,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:39.27,0:09:44.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"You know what? I don't give a bleep\Nabout anything recycled or organic.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:45.55,0:09:49.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I will, once a year,\Nbuy a nice pair of pants,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:49.36,0:09:51.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I don't care about anything,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:51.40,0:09:53.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then there are\Nthese people who are saying,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:53.59,0:09:58.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,"Yes, I'm really aware, I want to do that.\NI want to commit to the environment.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:58.31,0:10:01.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the pair of jeans\Nthat I'm going to buy every four weeks
Dialogue: 0,0:10:01.92,0:10:03.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will always be sustainable.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:03.25,0:10:04.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So -
Dialogue: 0,0:10:04.67,0:10:07.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still this person is "better?"
Dialogue: 0,0:10:07.97,0:10:10.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: Buying clothing every four weeks\Nis relatively new.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:10.82,0:10:15.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Before the 90s designers made clothes\Nfor two fashion seasons per year,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:15.12,0:10:18.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and now fashion retailers put out clothes\Nin as little as two weeks.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:18.94,0:10:22.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,More clothes mean\Ncheaper prices, lower quality,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.07,0:10:24.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and more ending up\Nin the landfill or burned.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:25.89,0:10:28.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But it’s not just big fast fashion brands;
Dialogue: 0,0:10:28.00,0:10:29.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it’s the fashion industry in general,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:29.76,0:10:33.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and our desire for constantly changing\Noutfits that need to hit pause.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:35.32,0:10:40.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,“We need to think about how we shop\Nand what we're really calling for.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:42.12,0:10:45.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But there is a bold step
Dialogue: 0,0:10:45.81,0:10:51.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in a number of notable fashion brands\Nand fashion houses now
Dialogue: 0,0:10:51.48,0:10:52.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going seasonless,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:52.60,0:10:55.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and hats off to them\Nit's an important thing to do.”
Dialogue: 0,0:10:56.53,0:10:58.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: The concept doesn’t mean\Nsacrificing style,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:58.94,0:11:02.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but instead making clothing to last\Nrather than be thrown away.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:03.35,0:11:05.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Karishma Khan: “So all in all,\Nwhat we're trying to do
Dialogue: 0,0:11:05.87,0:11:09.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is working with clothing\Nthat is not very seasonal, so to say.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:09.48,0:11:12.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It should be something\Nthat you can wear year after year.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:12.36,0:11:13.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We want to focus in quality.”
Dialogue: 0,0:11:14.13,0:11:15.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: Karishma is the founder of Ka-Sha,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:15.89,0:11:18.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,an Indian brand featured in magazines\Nlike Forbes and Vogue
Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.98,0:11:21.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for championing eco-friendly fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:21.30,0:11:22.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,KK: So we try to make products
Dialogue: 0,0:11:22.74,0:11:26.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that try to fit into different places
Dialogue: 0,0:11:26.25,0:11:28.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,depending on who's wearing it\Nand how it's worn.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:28.49,0:11:31.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we have a lot of different\Naspects to our clothing.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:31.01,0:11:33.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,N: So what do you do\Nwhen you want to buy new clothes?
Dialogue: 0,0:11:33.54,0:11:36.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,H&M and Zara say their eco-collections\Nare better for the environment,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:36.82,0:11:37.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they actually are.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.50,0:11:41.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you want to make sure\Nthe whole supply chain is sustainable,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.62,0:11:43.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there are many smaller brands
Dialogue: 0,0:11:43.01,0:11:45.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that can account for every step\Nof their production process.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.82,0:11:50.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And buying seasonless\Ninstead of trendy clothing
Dialogue: 0,0:11:50.26,0:11:53.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,means it won’t go out of fashion\Nand end up in the trash.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:53.68,0:11:55.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because this is a rare industry
Dialogue: 0,0:11:55.64,0:11:58.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where consumers actually\Nhave a real influence.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:00.41,0:12:02.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,“When I look at the whole picture,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:02.03,0:12:07.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I realize maybe only end consumer\Nis the power [that] can balance brands
Dialogue: 0,0:12:07.01,0:12:09.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and can push them,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:09.20,0:12:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,give them pressure to make some changes.”
Dialogue: 0,0:12:14.11,0:12:17.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So ask yourself not only who made\Nyour clothes and what they are made of,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:17.95,0:12:20.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but also, "Do I need these new clothes?"
Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.68,0:12:22.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And go from there instead.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.60,0:12:25.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And if you want to see\Nmore videos like this,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:25.69,0:12:27.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we post about environmental\Ntopics every Friday.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:28.06,0:12:30.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Like and subscribe so you don’t miss out.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.01,0:12:31.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Subtitles by Maurício Kakuei Tanaka