0:00:00.000,0:00:04.000
How do you feed a city?

0:00:04.000,0:00:06.000
It's one of the great questions of our time.

0:00:06.000,0:00:08.000
Yet it's one that's rarely asked.

0:00:08.000,0:00:11.000
We take it for granted that if we go into a shop

0:00:11.000,0:00:15.000
or restaurant, or indeed into this theater's foyer in about an hour's time,

0:00:15.000,0:00:18.000
there is going to be food there waiting for us,

0:00:18.000,0:00:20.000
having magically come from somewhere.

0:00:20.000,0:00:25.000
But when you think that every day for a city the size of London,

0:00:25.000,0:00:28.000
enough food has to be produced,

0:00:28.000,0:00:31.000
transported, bought and sold,

0:00:31.000,0:00:35.000
cooked, eaten, disposed of,

0:00:35.000,0:00:37.000
and that something similar has to happen every day

0:00:37.000,0:00:39.000
for every city on earth,

0:00:39.000,0:00:42.000
it's remarkable that cities get fed at all.

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We live in places like this as if

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they're the most natural things in the world,

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forgetting that because we're animals

0:00:49.000,0:00:51.000
and that we need to eat,

0:00:51.000,0:00:55.000
we're actually as dependent on the natural world

0:00:55.000,0:00:57.000
as our ancient ancestors were.

0:00:57.000,0:00:59.000
And as more of us move into cities,

0:00:59.000,0:01:02.000
more of that natural world is being

0:01:02.000,0:01:05.000
transformed into extraordinary landscapes like the one behind me --

0:01:05.000,0:01:08.000
it's soybean fields in Mato Grosso in Brazil --

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in order to feed us.

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These are extraordinary landscapes,

0:01:13.000,0:01:15.000
but few of us ever get to see them.

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And increasingly these landscapes

0:01:17.000,0:01:19.000
are not just feeding us either.

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As more of us move into cities,

0:01:21.000,0:01:23.000
more of us are eating meat,

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so that a third of the annual grain crop globally

0:01:26.000,0:01:28.000
now gets fed to animals

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rather than to us human animals.

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And given that it takes three times as much grain --

0:01:34.000,0:01:36.000
actually ten times as much grain --

0:01:36.000,0:01:39.000
to feed a human if it's passed through an animal first,

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that's not a very efficient way of feeding us.

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And it's an escalating problem too.

0:01:46.000,0:01:49.000
By 2050, it's estimated that twice the number

0:01:49.000,0:01:51.000
of us are going to be living in cities.

0:01:51.000,0:01:53.000
And it's also estimated that there is going to be twice as much

0:01:53.000,0:01:55.000
meat and dairy consumed.

0:01:55.000,0:02:00.000
So meat and urbanism are rising hand in hand.

0:02:00.000,0:02:02.000
And that's going to pose an enormous problem.

0:02:02.000,0:02:05.000
Six billion hungry carnivores to feed,

0:02:05.000,0:02:09.000
by 2050.

0:02:09.000,0:02:11.000
That's a big problem. And actually if we carry on as we are,

0:02:11.000,0:02:14.000
it's a problem we're very unlikely to be able to solve.

0:02:14.000,0:02:18.000
Nineteen million hectares of rainforest are lost every year

0:02:18.000,0:02:20.000
to create new arable land.

0:02:20.000,0:02:23.000
Although at the same time we're losing an equivalent amount

0:02:23.000,0:02:27.000
of existing arables to salinization and erosion.

0:02:27.000,0:02:30.000
We're very hungry for fossil fuels too.

0:02:30.000,0:02:33.000
It takes about 10 calories to produce every calorie

0:02:33.000,0:02:37.000
of food that we consume in the West.

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And even though there is food that we are producing at great cost,

0:02:41.000,0:02:43.000
we don't actually value it.

0:02:43.000,0:02:47.000
Half the food produced in the USA is currently thrown away.

0:02:47.000,0:02:50.000
And to end all of this, at the end of this long process,

0:02:50.000,0:02:53.000
we're not even managing to feed the planet properly.

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A billion of us are obese, while a further billion starve.

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None of it makes very much sense.

0:03:00.000,0:03:03.000
And when you think that 80 percent of global trade in food now

0:03:03.000,0:03:08.000
is controlled by just five multinational corporations,

0:03:08.000,0:03:10.000
it's a grim picture.

0:03:10.000,0:03:13.000
As we're moving into cities, the world is also embracing a Western diet.

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And if we look to the future,

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it's an unsustainable diet.

0:03:18.000,0:03:20.000
So how did we get here?

0:03:20.000,0:03:23.000
And more importantly, what are we going to do about it?

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Well, to answer the slightly easier question first,

0:03:27.000,0:03:29.000
about 10,000 years ago, I would say,

0:03:29.000,0:03:31.000
is the beginning of this process

0:03:31.000,0:03:33.000
in the ancient Near East,

0:03:33.000,0:03:35.000
known as the Fertile Crescent.

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Because, as you can see, it was crescent shaped.

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And it was also fertile.

0:03:39.000,0:03:42.000
And it was here, about 10,000 years ago,

0:03:42.000,0:03:44.000
that two extraordinary inventions,

0:03:44.000,0:03:47.000
agriculture and urbanism, happened

0:03:47.000,0:03:50.000
roughly in the same place and at the same time.

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This is no accident,

0:03:52.000,0:03:56.000
because agriculture and cities are bound together. They need each other.

0:03:56.000,0:03:58.000
Because it was discovery of grain

0:03:58.000,0:04:01.000
by our ancient ancestors for the first time

0:04:01.000,0:04:04.000
that produced a food source that was large enough

0:04:04.000,0:04:08.000
and stable enough to support permanent settlements.

0:04:08.000,0:04:10.000
And if we look at what those settlements were like,

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we see they were compact.

0:04:12.000,0:04:14.000
They were surrounded by productive farm land

0:04:14.000,0:04:17.000
and dominated by large temple complexes

0:04:17.000,0:04:19.000
like this one at Ur,

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that were, in fact, effectively,

0:04:21.000,0:04:24.000
spiritualized, central food distribution centers.

0:04:24.000,0:04:27.000
Because it was the temples that organized the harvest,

0:04:27.000,0:04:29.000
gathered in the grain, offered it to the gods,

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and then offered the grain that the gods didn't eat back to the people.

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So, if you like,

0:04:35.000,0:04:37.000
the whole spiritual and physical life of these cities

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was dominated by the grain and the harvest

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that sustained them.

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And in fact, that's true of every ancient city.

0:04:46.000,0:04:48.000
But of course not all of them were that small.

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Famously, Rome had about a million citizens

0:04:51.000,0:04:53.000
by the first century A.D.

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So how did a city like this feed itself?

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The answer is what I call "ancient food miles."

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Basically, Rome had access to the sea,

0:05:03.000,0:05:06.000
which made it possible for it to import food from a very long way away.

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This is the only way it was possible to do this in the ancient world,

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because it was very difficult to transport food over roads,

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which were rough.

0:05:14.000,0:05:16.000
And the food obviously went off very quickly.

0:05:16.000,0:05:18.000
So Rome effectively waged war

0:05:18.000,0:05:21.000
on places like Carthage and Egypt

0:05:21.000,0:05:23.000
just to get its paws on their grain reserves.

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And, in fact, you could say that the expansion of the Empire

0:05:26.000,0:05:29.000
was really sort of one long, drawn out

0:05:29.000,0:05:31.000
militarized shopping spree, really.

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(Laughter)

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In fact -- I love the fact, I just have to mention this:

0:05:35.000,0:05:38.000
Rome in fact used to import oysters from London,

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at one stage. I think that's extraordinary.

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So Rome shaped its hinterland

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through its appetite.

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But the interesting thing is that the other thing also

0:05:47.000,0:05:49.000
happened in the pre-industrial world.

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If we look at a map of London in the 17th century,

0:05:52.000,0:05:55.000
we can see that its grain, which is coming in from the Thames,

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along the bottom of this map.

0:05:57.000,0:06:00.000
So the grain markets were to the south of the city.

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And the roads leading up from them

0:06:02.000,0:06:04.000
to Cheapside, which was the main market,

0:06:04.000,0:06:06.000
were also grain markets.

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And if you look at the name of one of those streets,

0:06:08.000,0:06:11.000
Bread Street, you can tell

0:06:11.000,0:06:14.000
what was going on there 300 years ago.

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And the same of course was true for fish.

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Fish was, of course, coming in by river as well. Same thing.

0:06:19.000,0:06:22.000
And of course Billingsgate, famously, was London's fish market,

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operating on-site here until the mid-1980s.

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Which is extraordinary, really, when you think about it.

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Everybody else was wandering around

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with mobile phones that looked like bricks

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and sort of smelly fish happening down on the port.

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This is another thing about food in cities:

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Once its roots into the city are established,

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they very rarely move.

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Meat is a very different story

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because, of course, animals could walk into the city.

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So much of London's meat

0:06:49.000,0:06:51.000
was coming from the northwest,

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from Scotland and Wales.

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So it was coming in, and arriving at the city at the northwest,

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which is why Smithfield,

0:06:58.000,0:07:01.000
London's very famous meat market, was located up there.

0:07:01.000,0:07:05.000
Poultry was coming in from East Anglia and so on, to the northeast.

0:07:05.000,0:07:06.000
I feel a bit like a weather woman doing this. Anyway,

0:07:06.000,0:07:10.000
and so the birds were coming in

0:07:10.000,0:07:13.000
with their feet protected with little canvas shoes.

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And then when they hit the eastern end

0:07:15.000,0:07:17.000
of Cheapside, that's where they were sold,

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which is why it's called Poultry.

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And, in fact, if you look at the map of any city

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built before the industrial age,

0:07:26.000,0:07:28.000
you can trace food coming in to it.

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You can actually see how it was physically shaped by food,

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both by reading the names of the streets, which give you a lot of clues.

0:07:34.000,0:07:36.000
Friday Street, in a previous life,

0:07:36.000,0:07:38.000
is where you went to buy your fish on a Friday.

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But also you have to imagine it full of food.

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Because the streets and the public spaces

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were the only places where food was bought and sold.

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And if we look at an image of Smithfield in 1830

0:07:49.000,0:07:52.000
you can see that it would have been very difficult to live in a city like this

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and be unaware of where your food came from.

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In fact, if you were having Sunday lunch,

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the chances were it was mooing or bleating outside your window

0:07:58.000,0:08:00.000
about three days earlier.

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So this was obviously an organic city,

0:08:03.000,0:08:06.000
part of an organic cycle.

0:08:06.000,0:08:09.000
And then 10 years later everything changed.

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This is an image of the Great Western in 1840.

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And as you can see, some of the earliest train passengers

0:08:14.000,0:08:16.000
were pigs and sheep.

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So all of a sudden, these animals are no longer walking into market.

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They're being slaughtered out of sight and mind,

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somewhere in the countryside.

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And they're coming into the city by rail.

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And this changes everything.

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To start off with, it makes it possible

0:08:31.000,0:08:32.000
for the first time to grow cities,

0:08:32.000,0:08:34.000
really any size and shape, in any place.

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Cities used to be constrained by geography;

0:08:38.000,0:08:41.000
they used to have to get their food through very difficult physical means.

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All of a sudden they are effectively emancipated from geography.

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And as you can see from these maps of London,

0:08:48.000,0:08:50.000
in the 90 years after the trains came,

0:08:50.000,0:08:54.000
it goes from being a little blob that was quite easy to feed

0:08:54.000,0:08:56.000
by animals coming in on foot, and so on,

0:08:56.000,0:08:58.000
to a large splurge,

0:08:58.000,0:09:01.000
that would be very, very difficult to feed with anybody on foot,

0:09:01.000,0:09:04.000
either animals or people.

0:09:04.000,0:09:07.000
And of course that was just the beginning. After the trains came cars,

0:09:07.000,0:09:11.000
and really this marks the end of this process.

0:09:11.000,0:09:13.000
It's the final emancipation of the city

0:09:13.000,0:09:16.000
from any apparent relationship with nature at all.

0:09:16.000,0:09:19.000
And this is the kind of city that's devoid of smell,

0:09:19.000,0:09:21.000
devoid of mess, certainly devoid of people,

0:09:21.000,0:09:24.000
because nobody would have dreamed of walking in such a landscape.

0:09:24.000,0:09:27.000
In fact, what they did to get food was they got in their cars,

0:09:27.000,0:09:30.000
drove to a box somewhere on the outskirts,

0:09:30.000,0:09:32.000
came back with a week's worth of shopping,

0:09:32.000,0:09:34.000
and wondered what on earth to do with it.

0:09:34.000,0:09:37.000
And this really is the moment when our relationship,

0:09:37.000,0:09:40.000
both with food and cities, changes completely.

0:09:40.000,0:09:43.000
Here we have food -- that used to be the center,

0:09:43.000,0:09:46.000
the social core of the city -- at the periphery.

0:09:46.000,0:09:48.000
It used to be a social event, buying and selling food.

0:09:48.000,0:09:50.000
Now it's anonymous.

0:09:50.000,0:09:52.000
We used to cook; now we just add water,

0:09:52.000,0:09:57.000
or a little bit of an egg if you're making a cake or something.

0:09:57.000,0:10:01.000
We don't smell food to see if it's okay to eat.

0:10:01.000,0:10:04.000
We just read the back of a label on a packet.

0:10:04.000,0:10:07.000
And we don't value food. We don't trust it.

0:10:07.000,0:10:09.000
So instead of trusting it, we fear it.

0:10:09.000,0:10:13.000
And instead of valuing it, we throw it away.

0:10:13.000,0:10:16.000
One of the great ironies of modern food systems

0:10:16.000,0:10:18.000
is that they've made the very thing they promised

0:10:18.000,0:10:20.000
to make easier much harder.

0:10:20.000,0:10:24.000
By making it possible to build cities anywhere and any place,

0:10:24.000,0:10:28.000
they've actually distanced us from our most important relationship,

0:10:28.000,0:10:31.000
which is that of us and nature.

0:10:31.000,0:10:34.000
And also they've made us dependent on systems that only they can deliver,

0:10:34.000,0:10:36.000
that, as we've seen, are unsustainable.

0:10:36.000,0:10:39.000
So what are we going to do about that?

0:10:39.000,0:10:41.000
It's not a new question.

0:10:41.000,0:10:45.000
500 years ago it's what Thomas More was asking himself.

0:10:45.000,0:10:48.000
This is the frontispiece of his book "Utopia."

0:10:48.000,0:10:51.000
And it was a series of semi-independent city-states,

0:10:51.000,0:10:53.000
if that sounds remotely familiar,

0:10:53.000,0:10:56.000
a day's walk from one another where everyone was basically farming-mad,

0:10:56.000,0:10:58.000
and grew vegetables in their back gardens,

0:10:58.000,0:11:00.000
and ate communal meals together, and so on.

0:11:00.000,0:11:02.000
And I think you could argue that

0:11:02.000,0:11:05.000
food is a fundamental ordering principle of Utopia,

0:11:05.000,0:11:08.000
even though More never framed it that way.

0:11:08.000,0:11:11.000
And here is another very famous "Utopian" vision,

0:11:11.000,0:11:13.000
that of Ebenezer Howard, "The Garden City."

0:11:13.000,0:11:16.000
Same idea: series of semi-independent city-states,

0:11:16.000,0:11:20.000
little blobs of metropolitan stuff with arable land around,

0:11:20.000,0:11:22.000
joined to one another by railway.

0:11:22.000,0:11:24.000
And again, food could be said to be

0:11:24.000,0:11:27.000
the ordering principle of his vision.

0:11:27.000,0:11:29.000
It even got built, but nothing to do with

0:11:29.000,0:11:31.000
this vision that Howard had.

0:11:31.000,0:11:34.000
And that is the problem with these Utopian ideas,

0:11:34.000,0:11:36.000
that they are Utopian.

0:11:36.000,0:11:39.000
Utopia was actually a word that Thomas Moore used deliberately.

0:11:39.000,0:11:43.000
It was a kind of joke, because it's got a double derivation from the Greek.

0:11:43.000,0:11:45.000
It can either mean a good place, or no place.

0:11:45.000,0:11:49.000
Because it's an ideal. It's an imaginary thing. We can't have it.

0:11:49.000,0:11:51.000
And I think, as a conceptual tool

0:11:51.000,0:11:54.000
for thinking about the very deep problem of human dwelling,

0:11:54.000,0:11:56.000
that makes it not much use.

0:11:56.000,0:11:59.000
So I've come up with an alternative,

0:11:59.000,0:12:02.000
which is Sitopia, from the ancient Greek,

0:12:02.000,0:12:04.000
"sitos" for food, and "topos" for place.

0:12:04.000,0:12:06.000
I believe we already live in Sitopia.

0:12:06.000,0:12:09.000
We live in a world shaped by food,

0:12:09.000,0:12:12.000
and if we realize that, we can use food as a really powerful tool --

0:12:12.000,0:12:16.000
a conceptual tool, design tool, to shape the world differently.

0:12:16.000,0:12:21.000
So if we were to do that, what might Sitopia look like?

0:12:21.000,0:12:23.000
Well I think it looks a bit like this.

0:12:23.000,0:12:25.000
I have to use this slide. It's just the look on the face of the dog.

0:12:25.000,0:12:28.000
But anyway, this is -- (Laughter)

0:12:28.000,0:12:30.000
it's food at the center of life,

0:12:30.000,0:12:32.000
at the center of family life, being celebrated,

0:12:32.000,0:12:34.000
being enjoyed, people taking time for it.

0:12:34.000,0:12:37.000
This is where food should be in our society.

0:12:37.000,0:12:42.000
But you can't have scenes like this unless you have people like this.

0:12:42.000,0:12:44.000
By the way, these can be men as well.

0:12:44.000,0:12:47.000
It's people who think about food,

0:12:47.000,0:12:49.000
who think ahead, who plan,

0:12:49.000,0:12:51.000
who can stare at a pile of raw vegetables

0:12:51.000,0:12:53.000
and actually recognize them.

0:12:53.000,0:12:56.000
We need these people. We're part of a network.

0:12:56.000,0:12:59.000
Because without these kinds of people we can't have places like this.

0:12:59.000,0:13:02.000
Here, I deliberately chose this because it is a man buying a vegetable.

0:13:02.000,0:13:06.000
But networks, markets where food is being grown locally.

0:13:06.000,0:13:08.000
It's common. It's fresh.

0:13:08.000,0:13:10.000
It's part of the social life of the city.

0:13:10.000,0:13:13.000
Because without that, you can't have this kind of place,

0:13:13.000,0:13:16.000
food that is grown locally and also is part of the landscape,

0:13:16.000,0:13:18.000
and is not just a zero-sum commodity

0:13:18.000,0:13:20.000
off in some unseen hell-hole.

0:13:20.000,0:13:22.000
Cows with a view.

0:13:22.000,0:13:24.000
Steaming piles of humus.

0:13:24.000,0:13:27.000
This is basically bringing the whole thing together.

0:13:27.000,0:13:29.000
And this is a community project

0:13:29.000,0:13:31.000
I visited recently in Toronto.

0:13:31.000,0:13:33.000
It's a greenhouse, where kids get told

0:13:33.000,0:13:36.000
all about food and growing their own food.

0:13:36.000,0:13:39.000
Here is a plant called Kevin, or maybe it's a

0:13:39.000,0:13:41.000
plant belonging to a kid called Kevin. I don't know.

0:13:41.000,0:13:44.000
But anyway, these kinds of projects

0:13:44.000,0:13:48.000
that are trying to reconnect us with nature is extremely important.

0:13:48.000,0:13:50.000
So Sitopia, for me, is really a way of seeing.

0:13:50.000,0:13:54.000
It's basically recognizing that Sitopia

0:13:54.000,0:13:56.000
already exists in little pockets everywhere.

0:13:56.000,0:13:58.000
The trick is to join them up,

0:13:58.000,0:14:01.000
to use food as a way of seeing.

0:14:01.000,0:14:04.000
And if we do that, we're going to stop seeing cities

0:14:04.000,0:14:07.000
as big, metropolitan, unproductive blobs, like this.

0:14:07.000,0:14:09.000
We're going to see them more like this,

0:14:09.000,0:14:12.000
as part of the productive, organic framework

0:14:12.000,0:14:14.000
of which they are inevitably a part,

0:14:14.000,0:14:16.000
symbiotically connected.

0:14:16.000,0:14:18.000
But of course, that's not a great image either,

0:14:18.000,0:14:21.000
because we need not to be producing food like this anymore.

0:14:21.000,0:14:23.000
We need to be thinking more about permaculture,

0:14:23.000,0:14:25.000
which is why I think this image just

0:14:25.000,0:14:27.000
sums up for me the kind of thinking we need to be doing.

0:14:27.000,0:14:29.000
It's a re-conceptualization

0:14:29.000,0:14:32.000
of the way food shapes our lives.

0:14:32.000,0:14:35.000
The best image I know of this is from 650 years ago.

0:14:35.000,0:14:38.000
It's Ambrogio Lorenzetti's "Allegory of Good Government."

0:14:38.000,0:14:41.000
It's about the relationship between the city and the countryside.

0:14:41.000,0:14:44.000
And I think the message of this is very clear.

0:14:44.000,0:14:46.000
If the city looks after the country,

0:14:46.000,0:14:48.000
the country will look after the city.

0:14:48.000,0:14:50.000
And I want us to ask now,

0:14:50.000,0:14:53.000
what would Ambrogio Lorenzetti paint

0:14:53.000,0:14:55.000
if he painted this image today?

0:14:55.000,0:14:58.000
What would an allegory of good government look like today?

0:14:58.000,0:15:00.000
Because I think it's an urgent question.

0:15:00.000,0:15:02.000
It's one we have to ask,

0:15:02.000,0:15:04.000
and we have to start answering.

0:15:04.000,0:15:07.000
We know we are what we eat.

0:15:07.000,0:15:09.000
We need to realize that the world is also what we eat.

0:15:09.000,0:15:11.000
But if we take that idea, we can use food

0:15:11.000,0:15:15.000
as a really powerful tool to shape the world better.

0:15:15.000,0:15:17.000
Thank you very much.

0:15:17.000,0:15:20.000
(Applause)