[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.72,0:00:01.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:01.60,0:00:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which way is correct?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:03.60,0:00:05.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This way or
Dialogue: 0,0:00:05.11,0:00:06.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this way?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:06.50,0:00:07.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Long answer short,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:07.78,0:00:08.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it doesn't matter.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:08.80,0:00:11.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now if somebody wants to argue with you
Dialogue: 0,0:00:11.20,0:00:12.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can send this video.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:12.41,0:00:14.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, if you'are wondering
Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.36,0:00:18.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,why my carabiner is a little broken here
Dialogue: 0,0:00:18.27,0:00:20.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or you are that person who wants to argue.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:20.71,0:00:22.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let me entertain you.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:22.74,0:00:23.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is a boy oh boy
Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.95,0:00:26.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that was not that easy to figure out.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:28.91,0:00:29.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What happened?
Dialogue: 0,0:00:31.09,0:00:32.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, the rope is still here.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:33.71,0:00:35.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The GriGri's still here.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:36.23,0:00:36.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Oh
Dialogue: 0,0:00:37.17,0:00:37.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my
Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.16,0:00:38.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,God.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.89,0:00:41.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now a bit of context for those who don't
Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.07,0:00:43.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,understand what's the big deal about this.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:43.48,0:00:45.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is Black Diamond Gridlock,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.24,0:00:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's a belay carabiner.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:46.72,0:00:48.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we have a lot of similar
Dialogue: 0,0:00:48.19,0:00:50.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiners already on the market,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.15,0:00:51.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like this one for example.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:51.79,0:00:53.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And these carabiners usually have
Dialogue: 0,0:00:53.57,0:00:55.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a little loop at the bottom,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:55.01,0:00:56.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which you clip your harness to
Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.52,0:00:58.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it prevents the carabiner
Dialogue: 0,0:00:58.22,0:00:59.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from twisting in
Dialogue: 0,0:00:59.78,0:01:02.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some less than optimal orientation
Dialogue: 0,0:01:02.68,0:01:04.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and cross-loading it.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:04.27,0:01:05.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now I have a bunch of these
Dialogue: 0,0:01:05.59,0:01:08.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belay carabiners and on all of them
Dialogue: 0,0:01:08.36,0:01:10.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you clip your harness to the smaller loop
Dialogue: 0,0:01:10.91,0:01:12.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while you clip your belay device
Dialogue: 0,0:01:12.68,0:01:13.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the bigger loop.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:13.63,0:01:15.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However with Black Diamond GridLock
Dialogue: 0,0:01:15.84,0:01:17.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will see people clipping GriGri
Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.76,0:01:19.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the smaller loop.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:19.54,0:01:20.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, why is that?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:20.98,0:01:23.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, first of all \Nthe manual is really confussing
Dialogue: 0,0:01:23.49,0:01:26.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It shows tube style device \Nconnected to the bigger loop
Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.01,0:01:29.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It shows GriGri connected \Nto the smaller loop
Dialogue: 0,0:01:29.61,0:01:32.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then it has a warning \Nif you crossload the device
Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.80,0:01:35.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But it's a warning it's not a skull
Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.06,0:01:36.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not a big no-no
Dialogue: 0,0:01:36.75,0:01:37.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the question is:
Dialogue: 0,0:01:37.50,0:01:40.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Is it okay to connect GriGri \Nto the bigger loop?
Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.54,0:01:42.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, to unravel this mystery
Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.08,0:01:43.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I thought the best is actually
Dialogue: 0,0:01:43.55,0:01:47.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to write to Black Diamond \Nand ask them to give us recommendations
Dialogue: 0,0:01:47.36,0:01:51.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I got the response. \NThis is a question for Petzl
Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.92,0:01:56.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They recommended GriGri to be connected\Nat the small loop of the carabiner
Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.08,0:02:00.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then they sent me a link to petzl
Dialogue: 0,0:02:00.32,0:02:03.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,website which kinda doesn't make any
Dialogue: 0,0:02:03.20,0:02:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sense i was like
Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.80,0:02:08.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is no way petzl would put a
Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.00,0:02:10.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,competitor product on their website and
Dialogue: 0,0:02:10.80,0:02:13.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,talk about how to use it well i went to
Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.20,0:02:15.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that link of course there was nothing
Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.28,0:02:17.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and just in case i decided to write to
Dialogue: 0,0:02:17.76,0:02:18.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,petal
Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.72,0:02:20.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the answer was petal does not
Dialogue: 0,0:02:20.72,0:02:23.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,specify if grigri should be attached to
Dialogue: 0,0:02:23.04,0:02:25.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,upper or lower basket they also included
Dialogue: 0,0:02:25.76,0:02:27.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we should be aware of pear-shaped
Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.84,0:02:30.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiners because they have a tendency
Dialogue: 0,0:02:30.08,0:02:33.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to rotate and become poorly positioned
Dialogue: 0,0:02:33.92,0:02:35.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which means that pear-shaped carabiners
Dialogue: 0,0:02:35.92,0:02:38.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like this one connected to grigri are
Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.40,0:02:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more likely to cross-load during the
Dialogue: 0,0:02:40.72,0:02:44.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,laying compared to d-shaped carabiners
Dialogue: 0,0:02:44.16,0:02:47.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they kind of don't let the grigri to go
Dialogue: 0,0:02:47.20,0:02:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to that side that easily which i can
Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.40,0:02:52.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,confirm from my own experience so good
Dialogue: 0,0:02:52.64,0:02:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to know but it doesn't solve our black
Dialogue: 0,0:02:54.96,0:02:57.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,diamond gridlock mystery so i went back
Dialogue: 0,0:02:57.92,0:03:00.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to talk to black diamond and this time
Dialogue: 0,0:03:00.32,0:03:02.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the response was as you can see we do
Dialogue: 0,0:03:02.88,0:03:05.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not specifically recommend against a
Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.84,0:03:08.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigri loaded into a larger loop as
Dialogue: 0,0:03:08.72,0:03:14.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is no safety issues in doing so
Dialogue: 0,0:03:16.16,0:03:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so
Dialogue: 0,0:03:16.96,0:03:20.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it seems that there is no official
Dialogue: 0,0:03:20.08,0:03:23.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no no no to do this but
Dialogue: 0,0:03:23.44,0:03:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where is all of this confusion coming
Dialogue: 0,0:03:25.20,0:03:28.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from then well let me say that this
Dialogue: 0,0:03:28.24,0:03:31.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiner is really really old design i
Dialogue: 0,0:03:31.44,0:03:34.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,found an article dating like 10 years
Dialogue: 0,0:03:34.24,0:03:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ago which pointed to an issue of doing
Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.36,0:03:40.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this where in case of the crossload the
Dialogue: 0,0:03:40.16,0:03:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigri can get jammed so since i wanted
Dialogue: 0,0:03:43.68,0:03:46.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to go deeper into this story i reached
Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.08,0:03:48.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out to my friend ryan from youtube
Dialogue: 0,0:03:48.00,0:03:50.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,channel how not to to help me to
Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.40,0:03:52.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,investigate it here is a black diamond
Dialogue: 0,0:03:52.80,0:03:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gridlock screw gate carabiner and a cool
Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.04,0:03:56.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,feature about this is if you put it on a
Dialogue: 0,0:03:56.64,0:03:57.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belay loop
Dialogue: 0,0:03:57.76,0:03:59.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you open that gate one more time and it
Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.68,0:04:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,keeps it in the back of the carabiner
Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.04,0:04:03.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but ironically if you put the grigri on
Dialogue: 0,0:04:03.68,0:04:04.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there
Dialogue: 0,0:04:04.56,0:04:07.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you lock it then if your climber
Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.52,0:04:09.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes slack for a little bit
Dialogue: 0,0:04:09.28,0:04:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then loads it
Dialogue: 0,0:04:11.28,0:04:12.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh no
Dialogue: 0,0:04:12.56,0:04:15.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's cross-loaded ironically
Dialogue: 0,0:04:15.76,0:04:17.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's actually cross-loaded pretty
Dialogue: 0,0:04:17.28,0:04:18.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,badly
Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.88,0:04:21.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so we're going to test this to see how
Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.68,0:04:24.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bad it really is an interesting side
Dialogue: 0,0:04:24.00,0:04:25.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,note is if you put the carabiner facing
Dialogue: 0,0:04:25.76,0:04:27.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the other way
Dialogue: 0,0:04:27.20,0:04:30.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and so the black plate is towards the
Dialogue: 0,0:04:30.56,0:04:31.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back
Dialogue: 0,0:04:31.60,0:04:34.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it actually does not get stuck in any
Dialogue: 0,0:04:34.40,0:04:35.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,circumstance
Dialogue: 0,0:04:35.68,0:04:38.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,few things to note if you take any other
Dialogue: 0,0:04:38.24,0:04:40.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,belay carabiner
Dialogue: 0,0:04:40.16,0:04:43.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,properly designed it is impossible to
Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.44,0:04:46.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,make your belay device jam in this way
Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.24,0:04:47.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it always
Dialogue: 0,0:04:47.52,0:04:49.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slides out
Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.52,0:04:52.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on load and second thing even if you
Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.08,0:04:54.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,manage to cross load this carabiner it
Dialogue: 0,0:04:54.48,0:04:56.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,should still hold up to seven
Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.24,0:04:59.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kilonewtons of force and from my testing
Dialogue: 0,0:04:59.20,0:05:02.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i've never seen forces higher than two
Dialogue: 0,0:05:02.00,0:05:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,kilonewtons to the blair on really
Dialogue: 0,0:05:04.48,0:05:06.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really hard falls so it's more than
Dialogue: 0,0:05:06.64,0:05:09.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,three times safety ratio however if you
Dialogue: 0,0:05:09.76,0:05:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get your grigri jumped in here the
Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.16,0:05:15.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigri is being twisted as it wants to
Dialogue: 0,0:05:15.36,0:05:18.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,go back in its normal position so i'm
Dialogue: 0,0:05:18.88,0:05:21.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not sure if grigri is gonna like that
Dialogue: 0,0:05:21.12,0:05:24.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's find out
Dialogue: 0,0:05:24.18,0:05:25.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:05:25.44,0:05:28.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh that's stuck some real stuck stuff
Dialogue: 0,0:05:28.32,0:05:31.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right here for science
Dialogue: 0,0:05:32.96,0:05:34.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh
Dialogue: 0,0:05:34.72,0:05:38.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay let's try it again
Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.28,0:05:41.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh wow see it's separating a plate right
Dialogue: 0,0:05:41.68,0:05:42.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there
Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.88,0:05:46.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well that's not good for the gravy
Dialogue: 0,0:05:47.47,0:05:52.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:05:52.56,0:05:55.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so the rope is slipping around three and
Dialogue: 0,0:05:55.36,0:05:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's usually pretty common the plate
Dialogue: 0,0:05:57.52,0:05:59.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is definitely
Dialogue: 0,0:05:59.60,0:06:03.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's looser see if we can make this fail
Dialogue: 0,0:06:03.60,0:06:05.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:06:05.44,0:06:07.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what happened
Dialogue: 0,0:06:07.52,0:06:10.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well the rope is still here
Dialogue: 0,0:06:10.16,0:06:12.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the grigri's still here
Dialogue: 0,0:06:12.80,0:06:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh
Dialogue: 0,0:06:13.76,0:06:14.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my
Dialogue: 0,0:06:14.80,0:06:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,god
Dialogue: 0,0:06:17.20,0:06:20.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's a very interesting result
Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.40,0:06:23.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh that's gold
Dialogue: 0,0:06:24.08,0:06:25.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow
Dialogue: 0,0:06:25.68,0:06:28.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,huh you tell me this carabiner
Dialogue: 0,0:06:28.48,0:06:30.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still functions it even looks
Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.80,0:06:34.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i mean it's scraped up a little bit but
Dialogue: 0,0:06:34.40,0:06:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow
Dialogue: 0,0:06:37.68,0:06:39.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow
Dialogue: 0,0:06:39.84,0:06:43.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so just jacks the plates apart
Dialogue: 0,0:06:43.12,0:06:45.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at seven kilonewtons if it's not
Dialogue: 0,0:06:45.44,0:06:48.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slipping at five or two and a half
Dialogue: 0,0:06:48.88,0:06:50.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh wow
Dialogue: 0,0:06:50.96,0:06:52.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but that was the journey we just went on
Dialogue: 0,0:06:52.88,0:06:55.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so although in real life scenarios it's
Dialogue: 0,0:06:55.20,0:06:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really hard to generate forces anywhere
Dialogue: 0,0:06:57.52,0:07:00.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,close to that however grigri started
Dialogue: 0,0:07:00.16,0:07:02.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,suffering at around five kilonewtons or
Dialogue: 0,0:07:02.80,0:07:05.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maybe even less it didn't really like
Dialogue: 0,0:07:05.84,0:07:06.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that
Dialogue: 0,0:07:06.64,0:07:10.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,twisting action so take this as a
Dialogue: 0,0:07:10.00,0:07:12.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,warning and this mystery doesn't end
Dialogue: 0,0:07:12.64,0:07:14.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here because we received this picture
Dialogue: 0,0:07:14.80,0:07:17.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from the follower of us and he was
Dialogue: 0,0:07:17.12,0:07:19.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,replying down gets a few meters down
Dialogue: 0,0:07:19.52,0:07:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uh
Dialogue: 0,0:07:20.64,0:07:22.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,readjusts on the rope on the wall and we
Dialogue: 0,0:07:22.48,0:07:24.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hear this loud
Dialogue: 0,0:07:24.72,0:07:27.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ping and like uh he bumps down
Dialogue: 0,0:07:27.28,0:07:28.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a small piece of metal comes flying off
Dialogue: 0,0:07:28.96,0:07:31.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the wall which landed close to us so we
Dialogue: 0,0:07:31.60,0:07:33.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,found it and when you got down to the
Dialogue: 0,0:07:33.04,0:07:34.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bottom you can see that the nose is
Dialogue: 0,0:07:34.56,0:07:36.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,broken off in the caribbean defense even
Dialogue: 0,0:07:36.48,0:07:38.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,though the nose did explode
Dialogue: 0,0:07:38.96,0:07:42.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,um still functional
Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.56,0:07:45.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there's a pin and there's a gate
Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.36,0:07:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's not
Dialogue: 0,0:07:46.48,0:07:48.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he didn't fall to his death so i mean he
Dialogue: 0,0:07:48.24,0:07:49.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,had a backup on anyway are you still
Dialogue: 0,0:07:49.68,0:07:51.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,using it
Dialogue: 0,0:07:51.04,0:07:53.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no definitely not
Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.04,0:07:53.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no
Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.76,0:07:55.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you just like shred your below loop or
Dialogue: 0,0:07:55.76,0:07:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,something it's just like super sharp on
Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.52,0:07:59.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the inside edge how hard do you think
Dialogue: 0,0:07:59.68,0:08:02.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the load was no
Dialogue: 0,0:08:02.00,0:08:05.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he was there any slack in the system or
Dialogue: 0,0:08:05.20,0:08:08.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no not really dude weighs about
Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.24,0:08:11.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,80 75 maybe kilos we were repelling it
Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.12,0:08:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was a dynamic rope he was rappelling on
Dialogue: 0,0:08:13.36,0:08:16.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i can imagine it could be two things i
Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.16,0:08:18.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thought initially it was probably what
Dialogue: 0,0:08:18.00,0:08:19.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you suggested
Dialogue: 0,0:08:19.44,0:08:21.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,um which is
Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.52,0:08:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that i think so since the forces were
Dialogue: 0,0:08:24.48,0:08:28.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really low on this incident it raises a
Dialogue: 0,0:08:28.08,0:08:31.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lot of questions the first theory we had
Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.52,0:08:35.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was that maybe grigri was twisting
Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.04,0:08:38.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,against that little nose and broke it
Dialogue: 0,0:08:38.72,0:08:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however from ryan experiments as you saw
Dialogue: 0,0:08:41.44,0:08:44.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's probably really unlikely so another
Dialogue: 0,0:08:44.40,0:08:47.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,potential cause could have been improper
Dialogue: 0,0:08:47.68,0:08:50.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,loading of the carabiner on the harness
Dialogue: 0,0:08:50.56,0:08:51.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the gridlock is supposed to look like
Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.92,0:08:53.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this with the belay loop in the back of
Dialogue: 0,0:08:53.36,0:08:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the carabiner but if you don't put it
Dialogue: 0,0:08:55.04,0:08:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back there and it's not locked
Dialogue: 0,0:08:57.44,0:08:58.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's not a problem
Dialogue: 0,0:08:58.88,0:09:02.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but if it is locked we'll find out
Dialogue: 0,0:09:02.56,0:09:05.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how much of a problem that really is
Dialogue: 0,0:09:05.93,0:09:09.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:09:11.28,0:09:12.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let me make sure i see what happened
Dialogue: 0,0:09:12.88,0:09:15.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first
Dialogue: 0,0:09:15.36,0:09:18.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh it jumped
Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.08,0:09:23.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh
Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.20,0:09:26.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it jumped god damn it so since ryan ran
Dialogue: 0,0:09:26.88,0:09:30.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out of black diamond carabiners to break
Dialogue: 0,0:09:30.08,0:09:32.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,welcome to my testing lab
Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.24,0:09:34.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where my setup is an actual harness with
Dialogue: 0,0:09:34.72,0:09:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very thick belay loop i'm hoping that
Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.52,0:09:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's not gonna slip
Dialogue: 0,0:09:39.52,0:09:42.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,through the nose like in ryan's case and
Dialogue: 0,0:09:42.16,0:09:44.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,since i don't have a fancy machine to
Dialogue: 0,0:09:44.00,0:09:46.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,break things i'm gonna drop weights
Dialogue: 0,0:09:46.72,0:09:49.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and for those who worry about my safety
Dialogue: 0,0:09:49.20,0:09:51.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,constantly
Dialogue: 0,0:09:52.40,0:09:57.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i don't even know how to put this on
Dialogue: 0,0:10:06.08,0:10:07.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that was
Dialogue: 0,0:10:07.16,0:10:11.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,2.4 kilonewtons and it slipped through
Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.68,0:10:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the interesting part that this gap is
Dialogue: 0,0:10:14.24,0:10:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,super super tiny
Dialogue: 0,0:10:16.48,0:10:20.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compared to all of this belay loop maybe
Dialogue: 0,0:10:20.00,0:10:22.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this part of metal also flexes a little
Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.64,0:10:25.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bit so now i'm gonna put the thickest
Dialogue: 0,0:10:25.04,0:10:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,part of the harness on the nose
Dialogue: 0,0:10:27.44,0:10:31.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's see what happens
Dialogue: 0,0:10:31.61,0:10:39.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:10:39.12,0:10:40.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hmm
Dialogue: 0,0:10:40.88,0:10:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well let's try again okay
Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.60,0:10:44.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i'm trying
Dialogue: 0,0:10:44.96,0:10:47.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,something else this time
Dialogue: 0,0:10:47.92,0:10:51.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to see how this will go
Dialogue: 0,0:10:54.56,0:10:56.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i think i broke it
Dialogue: 0,0:10:56.64,0:10:59.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yep i broke the nose i felt it shot into
Dialogue: 0,0:10:59.92,0:11:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my
Dialogue: 0,0:11:00.96,0:11:01.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,nipple
Dialogue: 0,0:11:01.89,0:11:08.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:11:08.64,0:11:12.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this part is so so
Dialogue: 0,0:11:12.84,0:11:16.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sharp and your belay loop is falling
Dialogue: 0,0:11:16.48,0:11:19.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,through this super sharp edge
Dialogue: 0,0:11:19.12,0:11:21.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,i think i wrecked my harness a little
Dialogue: 0,0:11:21.20,0:11:22.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bit
Dialogue: 0,0:11:22.80,0:11:25.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and after analyzing the forces you can
Dialogue: 0,0:11:25.28,0:11:27.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see that the pin broke around here
Dialogue: 0,0:11:27.60,0:11:30.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,around one and a half kilonewtons only
Dialogue: 0,0:11:30.64,0:11:32.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then the peak of the force was when
Dialogue: 0,0:11:32.72,0:11:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the harness hit the bottom of the
Dialogue: 0,0:11:35.20,0:11:38.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiner so if you load this carabiner
Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.40,0:11:41.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,incorrectly this little piece is not
Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.04,0:11:43.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard to break and it leaves a very very
Dialogue: 0,0:11:43.68,0:11:47.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sharp edge which goes over your belay
Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.12,0:11:48.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,loop
Dialogue: 0,0:11:48.64,0:11:50.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now the story doesn't end here
Dialogue: 0,0:11:50.64,0:11:52.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we test it on another belay device to
Dialogue: 0,0:11:52.80,0:11:54.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see what happens
Dialogue: 0,0:11:54.37,0:12:04.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music]
Dialogue: 0,0:12:05.04,0:12:07.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,oh damn
Dialogue: 0,0:12:07.20,0:12:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay 12.6 kilometers it smells like gun
Dialogue: 0,0:12:09.84,0:12:11.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,powder right now
Dialogue: 0,0:12:11.84,0:12:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it broke
Dialogue: 0,0:12:13.04,0:12:15.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my blade of ice
Dialogue: 0,0:12:15.28,0:12:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's crazy and this thing was super
Dialogue: 0,0:12:17.36,0:12:19.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,strong in our belay device brake test
Dialogue: 0,0:12:19.76,0:12:21.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,video
Dialogue: 0,0:12:21.04,0:12:23.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it was twerking on the
Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.44,0:12:25.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the two lobes i think
Dialogue: 0,0:12:25.92,0:12:27.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wow
Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.12,0:12:29.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all right so we broke a bunch of
Dialogue: 0,0:12:29.04,0:12:31.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,carabiners and belaying devices
Dialogue: 0,0:12:31.60,0:12:33.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and i kind of had to find another
Dialogue: 0,0:12:33.52,0:12:36.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gridlock to make this outro so this is a
Dialogue: 0,0:12:36.72,0:12:39.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little future me so back to original
Dialogue: 0,0:12:39.28,0:12:41.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,question is it okay to do this where the
Dialogue: 0,0:12:41.68,0:12:43.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,grigri is connected to the bigger loop
Dialogue: 0,0:12:43.92,0:12:46.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well if you want a little bit safer
Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.88,0:12:50.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can clip the carabiner other way
Dialogue: 0,0:12:50.00,0:12:51.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,around
Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.20,0:12:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and as ryan discovered this is less
Dialogue: 0,0:12:53.60,0:12:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,likely to get jammed in here however
Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.56,0:12:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's a little bit more complicated to
Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.40,0:13:00.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clip everything this way if you're
Dialogue: 0,0:13:00.64,0:13:02.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,right-handed so for left-handed people
Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.96,0:13:05.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is probably even better now if you
Dialogue: 0,0:13:05.28,0:13:08.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,want the safest option of course you can
Dialogue: 0,0:13:08.24,0:13:11.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,clip the grigri to the smaller loop
Dialogue: 0,0:13:11.20,0:13:13.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,however it's such a big journey to do
Dialogue: 0,0:13:13.60,0:13:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that but i'm really not a fan of this
Dialogue: 0,0:13:16.96,0:13:19.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who came up if i did to wiggle it in
Dialogue: 0,0:13:19.84,0:13:22.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there in that small loop and then do all
Dialogue: 0,0:13:22.56,0:13:25.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of this shenanigan so i kind of think
Dialogue: 0,0:13:25.76,0:13:28.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that black diamond could have improved a
Dialogue: 0,0:13:28.64,0:13:31.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thing or two in this design but it was
Dialogue: 0,0:13:31.52,0:13:34.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really fun to collaborate
Dialogue: 0,0:13:34.00,0:13:37.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with ryan and push this carabiner to its
Dialogue: 0,0:13:37.12,0:13:38.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,limits so if you want to see more videos
Dialogue: 0,0:13:38.96,0:13:41.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like that consider supporting us
Dialogue: 0,0:13:41.12,0:13:43.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or just write a comment for the
Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.04,0:13:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,algorithm that helps a lot as well
Dialogue: 0,0:13:45.20,0:13:47.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and enjoy climbing
Dialogue: 0,0:13:47.28,0:13:49.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safe here