1
00:00:00,240 --> 00:00:04,040
so it looks like Griggree works like

2
00:00:04,040 --> 00:00:08,320
Gri like Gri So let's do some of those

3
00:00:08,320 --> 00:00:11,120
strange experiments and figure out if it

4
00:00:11,120 --> 00:00:14,240
is a Grigree And to make things complete

5
00:00:14,240 --> 00:00:16,560
I will also include Neox into the mix

6
00:00:16,560 --> 00:00:18,960
also known as Gri And in case you want a

7
00:00:18,960 --> 00:00:21,520
TLDDR version when it comes to cam

8
00:00:21,520 --> 00:00:23,920
assisted devices Pinch is probably the

9
00:00:23,920 --> 00:00:26,000
best alternative to Gri right now And if

10
00:00:26,000 --> 00:00:27,599
you want to know if it is better than

11
00:00:27,599 --> 00:00:30,560
Gri then the answer is not that simple

12
00:00:30,560 --> 00:00:34,079
So let's see All right So the only truly

13
00:00:34,079 --> 00:00:36,239
unique feature of this device is that

14
00:00:36,239 --> 00:00:38,160
you can attach it directly to the

15
00:00:38,160 --> 00:00:40,239
harness without the need of extra

16
00:00:40,239 --> 00:00:42,640
carabiner which I thought it's a super

17
00:00:42,640 --> 00:00:45,200
cool idea However what everybody

18
00:00:45,200 --> 00:00:47,680
instantly notices that this button which

19
00:00:47,680 --> 00:00:50,719
releases the device is not multi-action

20
00:00:50,719 --> 00:00:53,360
So it's pretty easy to press on it and

21
00:00:53,360 --> 00:00:56,079
remove the device So the question is can

22
00:00:56,079 --> 00:00:59,359
that happen during the blaying and Edid

23
00:00:59,359 --> 00:01:02,239
got bombarded by this question Oh yeah I

24
00:01:02,239 --> 00:01:04,479
don't know how often I saw this and

25
00:01:04,479 --> 00:01:06,960
honestly I was quite surprised that this

26
00:01:06,960 --> 00:01:09,439
is the first thing people think of and

27
00:01:09,439 --> 00:01:11,920
also with what passive aggressive

28
00:01:11,920 --> 00:01:14,560
criticism this gets So yeah if you worry

29
00:01:14,560 --> 00:01:17,400
about safety you are passive

30
00:01:17,400 --> 00:01:20,000
aggressive But since my name got there

31
00:01:20,000 --> 00:01:23,119
somehow I feel I have a duty now So to

32
00:01:23,119 --> 00:01:25,759
investigate this let's divide it into

33
00:01:25,759 --> 00:01:28,400
four possible states First when the

34
00:01:28,400 --> 00:01:30,880
device is loaded then the device is

35
00:01:30,880 --> 00:01:33,200
unloaded and the transition between

36
00:01:33,200 --> 00:01:35,200
these two states So let's begin with

37
00:01:35,200 --> 00:01:37,439
unloaded scenario And let's see what

38
00:01:37,439 --> 00:01:40,159
Ederlid has to say about that Could I

39
00:01:40,159 --> 00:01:42,159
accidentally open the device in an

40
00:01:42,159 --> 00:01:44,079
unloaded scenario and the answer to this

41
00:01:44,079 --> 00:01:47,119
is no It is simply impossible when you

42
00:01:47,119 --> 00:01:49,520
are attentive and you operate the device

43
00:01:49,520 --> 00:01:51,840
as shown in the user's manual So

44
00:01:51,840 --> 00:01:54,720
understood Read the friendly manual and

45
00:01:54,720 --> 00:01:58,159
then it's safe But um yeah before Phil

46
00:01:58,159 --> 00:02:00,479
starts hating me let's look into this

47
00:02:00,479 --> 00:02:02,960
deeper So there is actually only one

48
00:02:02,960 --> 00:02:05,439
spot where I can press the button It's

49
00:02:05,439 --> 00:02:07,920
right here If I start pressing somewhere

50
00:02:07,920 --> 00:02:10,720
else nothing happens And this button is

51
00:02:10,720 --> 00:02:13,280
nicely flush with the plastic round So

52
00:02:13,280 --> 00:02:16,640
pressing from the sides nothing happens

53
00:02:16,640 --> 00:02:19,280
Plus the button has pretty stiff spring

54
00:02:19,280 --> 00:02:22,319
You need to press it quite hard to open

55
00:02:22,319 --> 00:02:24,800
If the device is unloaded and I would

56
00:02:24,800 --> 00:02:27,120
try to press the button I'm simply going

57
00:02:27,120 --> 00:02:29,680
to push the device to the side and

58
00:02:29,680 --> 00:02:32,160
nothing is going to happen Even if I try

59
00:02:32,160 --> 00:02:39,360
to poke it really hard Ow ow ow ow ow So

60
00:02:39,360 --> 00:02:42,239
the only way I can imagine pressing that

61
00:02:42,239 --> 00:02:45,280
button in unloaded scenario is if I

62
00:02:45,280 --> 00:02:47,440
would I don't know get knocked by the

63
00:02:47,440 --> 00:02:50,400
rock fall on the ground and somehow

64
00:02:50,400 --> 00:02:52,319
press on that button and release the

65
00:02:52,319 --> 00:02:56,599
device How likely for that is to

66
00:02:56,599 --> 00:02:59,519
happen probably not very okay Next

67
00:02:59,519 --> 00:03:02,640
scenario The device is loaded Well I'm

68
00:03:02,640 --> 00:03:05,879
trying to load it now I can press the

69
00:03:05,879 --> 00:03:11,519
button Okay But I cannot open the

70
00:03:12,599 --> 00:03:14,120
device

71
00:03:14,120 --> 00:03:17,840
Well apparently I

72
00:03:18,760 --> 00:03:22,239
can That was not planned That was first

73
00:03:22,239 --> 00:03:26,319
attempt Ah okay See what happens And I

74
00:03:26,319 --> 00:03:28,879
was pulling down on the brake strand

75
00:03:28,879 --> 00:03:32,400
really hard and then it got loaded But

76
00:03:32,400 --> 00:03:36,640
it got loaded in this downwards facing

77
00:03:36,640 --> 00:03:40,080
direction and then somehow by pushing on

78
00:03:40,080 --> 00:03:43,040
the button I managed to slip the sling a

79
00:03:43,040 --> 00:03:46,799
little bit and now I can open it

80
00:03:46,799 --> 00:03:50,239
Normally if the load is really high

81
00:03:50,239 --> 00:03:52,560
probably I would not be able to pull the

82
00:03:52,560 --> 00:03:55,120
device down as much and then in this

83
00:03:55,120 --> 00:03:57,519
scenario if I press the button and I

84
00:03:57,519 --> 00:04:00,799
would try to open it it would not open

85
00:04:00,799 --> 00:04:03,040
because there is this little extra lip

86
00:04:03,040 --> 00:04:05,760
which is hooking on the blay loop So

87
00:04:05,760 --> 00:04:07,680
here is actually a good moment to talk

88
00:04:07,680 --> 00:04:10,640
that there is a limit on blay loop width

89
00:04:10,640 --> 00:04:13,040
If it's too wide it's not good cuz

90
00:04:13,040 --> 00:04:15,360
device will sit sideways But if it's

91
00:04:15,360 --> 00:04:17,519
very skinny like the one that I have

92
00:04:17,519 --> 00:04:20,239
right now then it's more likely that the

93
00:04:20,239 --> 00:04:22,600
loop could sit in some strange

94
00:04:22,600 --> 00:04:25,280
orientation So I would be more cautious

95
00:04:25,280 --> 00:04:27,440
with super skinny harnesses like this

96
00:04:27,440 --> 00:04:31,360
one Now what if the device is loaded I

97
00:04:31,360 --> 00:04:33,759
press the button and in that moment

98
00:04:33,759 --> 00:04:37,280
somehow it would unload Could it uncip

99
00:04:37,280 --> 00:04:40,600
at this moment

100
00:04:40,600 --> 00:04:44,320
well I wouldn't say no but at the same

101
00:04:44,320 --> 00:04:47,680
time it's very very unlikely So yeah

102
00:04:47,680 --> 00:04:49,759
personally with this super skinny ble

103
00:04:49,759 --> 00:04:52,080
loop I was using this device with a

104
00:04:52,080 --> 00:04:54,479
backup carabiner maybe a thicker blay

105
00:04:54,479 --> 00:04:57,520
loops my monkey brain would be happier

106
00:04:57,520 --> 00:05:00,240
However I'm certain that if this button

107
00:05:00,240 --> 00:05:02,320
would be double action then I would be

108
00:05:02,320 --> 00:05:05,840
much happier Also this direct attachment

109
00:05:05,840 --> 00:05:07,840
to the harness requires a little bit

110
00:05:07,840 --> 00:05:10,400
more attention I had a viewer of mine

111
00:05:10,400 --> 00:05:13,120
send me a picture where he accidentally

112
00:05:13,120 --> 00:05:16,960
clipped like this which I can see how

113
00:05:16,960 --> 00:05:19,360
that can happen quite easily where the

114
00:05:19,360 --> 00:05:23,600
rope runs like so Also if you don't pay

115
00:05:23,600 --> 00:05:25,600
attention and you have very skinny ble

116
00:05:25,600 --> 00:05:28,680
loop you can accidentally close it like

117
00:05:28,680 --> 00:05:31,680
so And you might not notice this And

118
00:05:31,680 --> 00:05:34,240
this is very dangerous because it can

119
00:05:34,240 --> 00:05:37,600
easily open So yeah pay attention and do

120
00:05:37,600 --> 00:05:39,039
the double check before you start

121
00:05:39,039 --> 00:05:41,600
climbing always Alternatively you of

122
00:05:41,600 --> 00:05:43,360
course have an option to attach it with

123
00:05:43,360 --> 00:05:46,080
the carabiner like any other blay device

124
00:05:46,080 --> 00:05:49,039
However in this case pinch sits really

125
00:05:49,039 --> 00:05:51,120
far from the harness cuz it actually has

126
00:05:51,120 --> 00:05:53,759
this lip which is longer than on most of

127
00:05:53,759 --> 00:05:55,919
blaying devices and it becomes really

128
00:05:55,919 --> 00:05:57,840
uncomfortable to use and it kind of

129
00:05:57,840 --> 00:06:01,360
defeats the main benefit of pinch

130
00:06:01,360 --> 00:06:04,160
So yeah All right Now before we go to

131
00:06:04,160 --> 00:06:06,880
actual benefits of direct attachment to

132
00:06:06,880 --> 00:06:10,080
the harness let me first debunk one kind

133
00:06:10,080 --> 00:06:13,919
of myth Now that you can give more slack

134
00:06:13,919 --> 00:06:16,199
this way when the device is close to the

135
00:06:16,199 --> 00:06:19,199
harness This is actually the opposite So

136
00:06:19,199 --> 00:06:21,440
if I have a grigree and I give slack

137
00:06:21,440 --> 00:06:23,919
like this Yes now I can give a little

138
00:06:23,919 --> 00:06:27,280
bit less slack But guess what i can push

139
00:06:27,280 --> 00:06:32,000
gri down giving much more slack So I

140
00:06:32,000 --> 00:06:35,199
pull the rope and push the device down

141
00:06:35,199 --> 00:06:37,440
This is actually a very cool technique

142
00:06:37,440 --> 00:06:40,960
for short climbers or short arm

143
00:06:40,960 --> 00:06:43,440
bellayers And before my comment section

144
00:06:43,440 --> 00:06:45,759
explodes I have to say that there is

145
00:06:45,759 --> 00:06:48,360
multiple ways to give slack You can do

146
00:06:48,360 --> 00:06:52,800
this you can do that And I'm not here to

147
00:06:52,800 --> 00:06:54,960
debate which method is the best the

148
00:06:54,960 --> 00:06:57,360
safest However I will compare every

149
00:06:57,360 --> 00:06:59,280
device in all of these methods So no

150
00:06:59,280 --> 00:07:02,319
matter what you use or what you like you

151
00:07:02,319 --> 00:07:04,000
will know which device is the best for

152
00:07:04,000 --> 00:07:06,960
you So back to the pinch directly

153
00:07:06,960 --> 00:07:09,120
attached to the harness And the main

154
00:07:09,120 --> 00:07:11,360
benefit of that is that it's closer to

155
00:07:11,360 --> 00:07:14,080
the harness is less floppy around And

156
00:07:14,080 --> 00:07:16,240
when it falls down it does not fall as

157
00:07:16,240 --> 00:07:19,120
much down So it makes it much easier to

158
00:07:19,120 --> 00:07:22,160
find blindly with your hands And this

159
00:07:22,160 --> 00:07:24,240
brings me to the first mistake where I

160
00:07:24,240 --> 00:07:27,440
try to use pinch like I would use gri

161
00:07:27,440 --> 00:07:29,520
where I would take my index finger and

162
00:07:29,520 --> 00:07:32,639
hook under this lip and give slack like

163
00:07:32,639 --> 00:07:35,440
this However you quickly realize that

164
00:07:35,440 --> 00:07:38,080
this lip is way too small and it's not

165
00:07:38,080 --> 00:07:40,319
comfortable to hook with index finger

166
00:07:40,319 --> 00:07:42,960
Then I started grabbing with my thumb

167
00:07:42,960 --> 00:07:45,680
around like this And actually this is

168
00:07:45,680 --> 00:07:48,080
not how pinch is supposed to be bellayed

169
00:07:48,080 --> 00:07:50,240
So with pinch you're supposed to have

170
00:07:50,240 --> 00:07:52,400
all your fingers wrapped around the rope

171
00:07:52,400 --> 00:07:55,199
and use only the thumb to gently press

172
00:07:55,199 --> 00:07:57,919
on the cam and give slack like this And

173
00:07:57,919 --> 00:08:00,639
this works really really well So

174
00:08:00,639 --> 00:08:03,199
objectively thinking four fingers is

175
00:08:03,199 --> 00:08:06,160
more than three And it also encourages

176
00:08:06,160 --> 00:08:08,960
you to not touch the device when you

177
00:08:08,960 --> 00:08:11,840
don't need it So it must be a little bit

178
00:08:11,840 --> 00:08:14,560
safer While on contrast with Gri if I

179
00:08:14,560 --> 00:08:17,840
hook my finger here and I relax too much

180
00:08:17,840 --> 00:08:20,319
I might not actually hold the rope at

181
00:08:20,319 --> 00:08:22,720
all And I already made a video of what

182
00:08:22,720 --> 00:08:26,680
can happen in that scenario

183
00:08:28,479 --> 00:08:31,039
So don't get too lazy and actually hold

184
00:08:31,039 --> 00:08:33,279
the rope especially with super skinny

185
00:08:33,279 --> 00:08:35,519
ropes All right So how does the pinch

186
00:08:35,519 --> 00:08:38,080
work in practice the first thing I

187
00:08:38,080 --> 00:08:40,880
noticed that it pinch is pretty heavy

188
00:08:40,880 --> 00:08:43,039
and it's front heavy because it has a

189
00:08:43,039 --> 00:08:45,200
steel insert in the front So after you

190
00:08:45,200 --> 00:08:48,560
give slack it will fall down It does not

191
00:08:48,560 --> 00:08:51,279
fall down as much as the giri cuz it's

192
00:08:51,279 --> 00:08:53,519
closer to the harness but it does fall

193
00:08:53,519 --> 00:08:55,920
down and there is no way to stop that

194
00:08:55,920 --> 00:08:58,240
cuz you're not supposed to be hooking on

195
00:08:58,240 --> 00:09:00,959
it So every time you give slack it falls

196
00:09:00,959 --> 00:09:02,959
down and then you have to blindly find

197
00:09:02,959 --> 00:09:05,200
the rope again and give slack So at

198
00:09:05,200 --> 00:09:07,760
first this was kind of uncomfortable but

199
00:09:07,760 --> 00:09:09,920
I thought that the longer I will use it

200
00:09:09,920 --> 00:09:11,760
the more I will get used to it and

201
00:09:11,760 --> 00:09:14,000
eventually it's going to be fine And

202
00:09:14,000 --> 00:09:16,240
after using it for quite a while

203
00:09:16,240 --> 00:09:18,240
delaying my partners projecting

204
00:09:18,240 --> 00:09:20,000
different routes eventually I kind of

205
00:09:20,000 --> 00:09:22,880
got used to this However the first time

206
00:09:22,880 --> 00:09:25,839
I switched back to Griggi I instantly

207
00:09:25,839 --> 00:09:28,640
felt how much easier it is to give slack

208
00:09:28,640 --> 00:09:31,279
for me Then you give slack like this and

209
00:09:31,279 --> 00:09:34,959
the device doesn't fall anywhere at all

210
00:09:34,959 --> 00:09:37,440
So the first takeaway if you are a

211
00:09:37,440 --> 00:09:40,080
Grigree user and you like giving slack

212
00:09:40,080 --> 00:09:43,839
like this stay with Griggree If you're

213
00:09:43,839 --> 00:09:46,399
someone who doesn't like this idea of

214
00:09:46,399 --> 00:09:49,200
having hands close to Blay device then

215
00:09:49,200 --> 00:09:52,080
pinch is much better option Now in case

216
00:09:52,080 --> 00:09:54,320
you like giving slack like this in a

217
00:09:54,320 --> 00:09:55,399
tube

218
00:09:55,399 --> 00:09:58,800
style style then I actually tested all

219
00:09:58,800 --> 00:10:00,560
the devices with different rope

220
00:10:00,560 --> 00:10:02,720
thicknesses We have skinny ropes it

221
00:10:02,720 --> 00:10:05,040
doesn't matter All the devices work very

222
00:10:05,040 --> 00:10:06,880
well with skinny ropes Once the ropes

223
00:10:06,880 --> 00:10:09,399
get slightly thicker to like

224
00:10:09,399 --> 00:10:13,040
9.5 then Gri becomes unreliable It

225
00:10:13,040 --> 00:10:16,079
starts locking up too much While pinch

226
00:10:16,079 --> 00:10:18,720
was working really well However the king

227
00:10:18,720 --> 00:10:21,680
of the hill was Neox cuz it's pretty

228
00:10:21,680 --> 00:10:24,399
much designed to be blayed like this

229
00:10:24,399 --> 00:10:26,720
It's incredibly smooth Even with the

230
00:10:26,720 --> 00:10:30,000
ropes up to like 10 mm it's still super

231
00:10:30,000 --> 00:10:32,880
smooth So if that's how you blay then

232
00:10:32,880 --> 00:10:36,880
Nox is your best blay device Okay Now

233
00:10:36,880 --> 00:10:39,920
one thing that I did not like about the

234
00:10:39,920 --> 00:10:42,560
pinch that it felt that it takes more

235
00:10:42,560 --> 00:10:45,440
effort to pull the rope through I asked

236
00:10:45,440 --> 00:10:47,600
you guys and some of you said that

237
00:10:47,600 --> 00:10:50,560
actually pinch is much smoother than gri

238
00:10:50,560 --> 00:10:52,480
However others said that pulling the

239
00:10:52,480 --> 00:10:54,399
rope through pinch feels like doing

240
00:10:54,399 --> 00:10:57,279
chores So first I wanted to measure how

241
00:10:57,279 --> 00:11:00,640
much internal friction each device has I

242
00:11:00,640 --> 00:11:03,040
kept adding weights and checking when

243
00:11:03,040 --> 00:11:06,000
the rope started to slip First

244
00:11:06,000 --> 00:11:09,040
observation was that my old grigy had

245
00:11:09,040 --> 00:11:11,360
slightly lower friction compared to

246
00:11:11,360 --> 00:11:13,440
brand new one This is probably due to

247
00:11:13,440 --> 00:11:16,160
smoothening and rounded edges and I

248
00:11:16,160 --> 00:11:18,880
should probably retire this gri already

249
00:11:18,880 --> 00:11:21,680
and pinch depending on the rope had up

250
00:11:21,680 --> 00:11:25,279
to 30% more friction compared to a brand

251
00:11:25,279 --> 00:11:27,760
new Griggree Now I was expecting that

252
00:11:27,760 --> 00:11:30,959
Neox will beat all of these devices

253
00:11:30,959 --> 00:11:33,920
However that is surprising Turns out

254
00:11:33,920 --> 00:11:37,040
that my Neox had so much dust that the

255
00:11:37,040 --> 00:11:40,240
wheel does not spin as smooth as it used

256
00:11:40,240 --> 00:11:44,000
to So I did buy a new Neox nice black

257
00:11:44,000 --> 00:11:47,640
one I like it And it is actually

258
00:11:47,640 --> 00:11:52,880
significantly smoother It's crazy

259
00:11:57,959 --> 00:12:01,600
smooth So I contacted Pzel and asked how

260
00:12:01,600 --> 00:12:04,800
to clean my old Neox And once I get a

261
00:12:04,800 --> 00:12:07,480
response I will try and see if cleaning

262
00:12:07,480 --> 00:12:11,000
helps or actually Neox's have some dirty

263
00:12:11,000 --> 00:12:13,440
issues So I'm going to make a separate

264
00:12:13,440 --> 00:12:15,920
video on that Now I did not want to rely

265
00:12:15,920 --> 00:12:18,720
on a single ugabooga test so I did

266
00:12:18,720 --> 00:12:20,639
another one This time I wanted to

267
00:12:20,639 --> 00:12:23,600
measure how much energy it takes to give

268
00:12:23,600 --> 00:12:26,959
one arm of slack To make things as equal

269
00:12:26,959 --> 00:12:30,160
as possible for the gri I used a tiny

270
00:12:30,160 --> 00:12:32,800
tiny carabiner This way the amount of

271
00:12:32,800 --> 00:12:35,600
rope pulled through all the devices is

272
00:12:35,600 --> 00:12:38,079
very similar And then I used a small

273
00:12:38,079 --> 00:12:40,639
load cell to measure the forces over

274
00:12:40,639 --> 00:12:44,480
time which should give me this value

275
00:12:44,480 --> 00:12:47,200
Man this is significantly harder Now as

276
00:12:47,200 --> 00:12:49,440
you can imagine having consistency in

277
00:12:49,440 --> 00:12:52,639
such tests is really difficult That's

278
00:12:52,639 --> 00:12:56,240
why I needed a lot of samples a lot of

279
00:12:56,240 --> 00:12:58,800
data points to reach statistically

280
00:12:58,800 --> 00:13:02,079
significant numbers Wow my shoulder is

281
00:13:02,079 --> 00:13:05,079
working on this device Also I had an

282
00:13:05,079 --> 00:13:08,160
unexpected discovery that such way of

283
00:13:08,160 --> 00:13:11,200
giving and taking slack many many times

284
00:13:11,200 --> 00:13:14,720
macaroni causes many many tangles in the

285
00:13:14,720 --> 00:13:18,440
rope which I had to remove before every

286
00:13:18,440 --> 00:13:21,839
experiment So yeah new Neos this time

287
00:13:21,839 --> 00:13:26,800
felt the smoothest and that's a

288
00:13:27,079 --> 00:13:31,920
difference very closely followed by

289
00:13:32,440 --> 00:13:37,360
Gri and pinch was double the trouble

290
00:13:37,360 --> 00:13:40,120
This feels much

291
00:13:40,120 --> 00:13:43,519
harder All right next up Now I'm going

292
00:13:43,519 --> 00:13:47,760
to regret this This is 10 mm rope I

293
00:13:47,760 --> 00:13:50,279
already feel my shoulder from

294
00:13:50,279 --> 00:13:54,959
9.5 So with 10 mm rope Griggy was hard

295
00:13:54,959 --> 00:13:56,040
to

296
00:13:56,040 --> 00:13:59,639
use Definitely

297
00:13:59,639 --> 00:14:05,160
usable Not easy though but

298
00:14:05,160 --> 00:14:08,800
usable But pinch was another level Let's

299
00:14:08,800 --> 00:14:10,440
see how this

300
00:14:10,440 --> 00:14:14,920
goes Oh yeah

301
00:14:19,199 --> 00:14:22,360
It's an actual workout

302
00:14:22,360 --> 00:14:26,560
now However Neox was impressive in a

303
00:14:26,560 --> 00:14:28,839
good way Okay new

304
00:14:28,839 --> 00:14:32,399
cre Oh

305
00:14:32,839 --> 00:14:35,839
wow

306
00:14:36,360 --> 00:14:39,760
Okay that's

307
00:14:40,199 --> 00:14:44,880
nice Oh it locks Now taking the slack

308
00:14:44,880 --> 00:14:48,000
felt really great with pinch There was

309
00:14:48,000 --> 00:14:51,680
no back slip at all However when it

310
00:14:51,680 --> 00:14:54,639
comes to lowering I had antipanic

311
00:14:54,639 --> 00:14:58,959
engaging all the time

312
00:14:58,959 --> 00:15:03,279
Wow it's or and yes you can override it

313
00:15:03,279 --> 00:15:06,560
by pulling the lever even more which

314
00:15:06,560 --> 00:15:10,480
works well However in certain projecting

315
00:15:10,480 --> 00:15:12,639
situations when the climbber asks to

316
00:15:12,639 --> 00:15:16,079
lower just a bit and antipanic kicks in

317
00:15:16,079 --> 00:15:18,639
it causes a jarring experience both for

318
00:15:18,639 --> 00:15:21,360
the climbber and for the bare Now good

319
00:15:21,360 --> 00:15:23,519
part is that you can actually disable

320
00:15:23,519 --> 00:15:25,920
this antipanic feature by inserting a

321
00:15:25,920 --> 00:15:28,639
little screw that came into the package

322
00:15:28,639 --> 00:15:32,000
And unfortunately for me um I had no

323
00:15:32,000 --> 00:15:34,240
idea what that screw is when I got the

324
00:15:34,240 --> 00:15:37,040
device and now I have no idea where that

325
00:15:37,040 --> 00:15:40,720
screw is Moving forward the front of the

326
00:15:40,720 --> 00:15:43,519
pinch has a steel insert So if you let

327
00:15:43,519 --> 00:15:46,000
the rope run through that it should make

328
00:15:46,000 --> 00:15:48,800
the device last much longer unlike the

329
00:15:48,800 --> 00:15:51,120
Grig where it develops grooves over the

330
00:15:51,120 --> 00:15:53,759
edge It should also provide more control

331
00:15:53,759 --> 00:15:56,959
in lowering with skinnier ropes However

332
00:15:56,959 --> 00:16:00,040
from my testing I could barely feel a

333
00:16:00,040 --> 00:16:03,199
difference So this steel insert is a

334
00:16:03,199 --> 00:16:05,680
nice addition However I do slightly

335
00:16:05,680 --> 00:16:07,839
prefer having my hand on the side when

336
00:16:07,839 --> 00:16:11,120
lowering So I would prefer having steel

337
00:16:11,120 --> 00:16:14,240
on the side like Gri Plus has and maybe

338
00:16:14,240 --> 00:16:17,279
a little bit less when in the front to

339
00:16:17,279 --> 00:16:20,000
have less weight All right next

340
00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:24,360
experiment Ready yeah

341
00:16:28,160 --> 00:16:31,920
I mean done So I have done a bunch of

342
00:16:31,920 --> 00:16:34,560
these tests with Gri in the past and it

343
00:16:34,560 --> 00:16:37,120
pretty much imitates of what happens if

344
00:16:37,120 --> 00:16:39,839
you don't hold the rope and there was no

345
00:16:39,839 --> 00:16:42,240
slack in the system in the beginning

346
00:16:42,240 --> 00:16:44,600
Basically first attempt and it already

347
00:16:44,600 --> 00:16:47,600
slipped

348
00:16:47,959 --> 00:16:51,040
and nothing Just for comparison let's

349
00:16:51,040 --> 00:16:53,120
compare against Gri And then let's

350
00:16:53,120 --> 00:16:55,160
compare against

351
00:16:55,160 --> 00:16:57,720
Gri Ah I need a

352
00:16:57,720 --> 00:17:01,040
carabiner Ah see how great the pinch is

353
00:17:01,040 --> 00:17:04,079
You don't even need a carabiner Oh yes

354
00:17:04,079 --> 00:17:06,400
Swing it so it falls straight on my head

355
00:17:06,400 --> 00:17:11,959
and kills me And this is gri

356
00:17:17,039 --> 00:17:19,839
Yeah I've done this in the past a lot A

357
00:17:19,839 --> 00:17:22,720
lot a lot And it's possible to make it

358
00:17:22,720 --> 00:17:25,679
completely slip

359
00:17:26,120 --> 00:17:29,080
but way

360
00:17:29,080 --> 00:17:31,960
harder Okay just

361
00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:37,039
for sake of comparison this is

362
00:17:40,440 --> 00:17:43,520
criy Some people asked why it's why I

363
00:17:43,520 --> 00:17:47,840
call it creek Let's go

364
00:17:48,640 --> 00:17:51,760
I think this is even worse than pinch It

365
00:17:51,760 --> 00:17:55,039
seemed like it's falling much

366
00:17:59,320 --> 00:18:02,320
faster

367
00:18:02,360 --> 00:18:06,000
Yes This is definitely more sketchy Now

368
00:18:06,000 --> 00:18:08,240
every time I do these tests someone will

369
00:18:08,240 --> 00:18:11,280
complain that I'm using too low weights

370
00:18:11,280 --> 00:18:13,520
But I have already explained in my

371
00:18:13,520 --> 00:18:16,160
physics of Griggree video how friction

372
00:18:16,160 --> 00:18:19,360
affects the forces So I highly recommend

373
00:18:19,360 --> 00:18:21,919
to watch that video But long story short

374
00:18:21,919 --> 00:18:24,640
with enough friction your climbber

375
00:18:24,640 --> 00:18:27,600
becomes very light Let's maybe try with

376
00:18:27,600 --> 00:18:29,600
more weight because there's always

377
00:18:29,600 --> 00:18:32,360
people complaining about me using low

378
00:18:32,360 --> 00:18:36,320
weights Oh sheesh

379
00:18:36,320 --> 00:18:39,360
It's not going to kill

380
00:18:46,679 --> 00:18:49,200
me I guess I'm not going to try that

381
00:18:49,200 --> 00:18:51,559
with

382
00:18:51,559 --> 00:18:57,000
Neox Or should I you should I

383
00:18:57,000 --> 00:19:02,440
should [ __ ] Now it's a bit sketchy

384
00:19:04,480 --> 00:19:06,360
Okay this is

385
00:19:06,360 --> 00:19:08,760
definitely much more

386
00:19:08,760 --> 00:19:11,600
sketchy So when it comes to this test

387
00:19:11,600 --> 00:19:14,480
Griggy was the safest followed by pinch

388
00:19:14,480 --> 00:19:18,160
and Neox was the most likely to slip So

389
00:19:18,160 --> 00:19:21,600
I got a comment that catches with pinch

390
00:19:21,600 --> 00:19:24,320
felt harder than catches with gri So

391
00:19:24,320 --> 00:19:26,640
what I'm going to try is to measure the

392
00:19:26,640 --> 00:19:30,320
forces I am a bit skeptical about this I

393
00:19:30,320 --> 00:19:32,799
mean when Gri catches there is the

394
00:19:32,799 --> 00:19:35,919
carabiner which moves up so maybe that

395
00:19:35,919 --> 00:19:38,600
plays a role

396
00:19:38,600 --> 00:19:41,600
Three

397
00:19:42,600 --> 00:19:46,240
four Okay

398
00:19:51,400 --> 00:19:54,039
077

399
00:19:54,039 --> 00:19:57,039
3

400
00:20:00,039 --> 00:20:05,360
4 6 Exactly the

401
00:20:07,799 --> 00:20:09,559
same

402
00:20:09,559 --> 00:20:12,720
68 So I'm getting consistent results

403
00:20:12,720 --> 00:20:14,480
It's not even like that It's

404
00:20:14,480 --> 00:20:17,880
progressively loading It's just

405
00:20:17,880 --> 00:20:20,880
goes The only difference would be if

406
00:20:20,880 --> 00:20:22,720
there would be different slippage in the

407
00:20:22,720 --> 00:20:24,960
device But both of these devices seem to

408
00:20:24,960 --> 00:20:27,280
have similar slippage which is very

409
00:20:27,280 --> 00:20:28,679
little

410
00:20:28,679 --> 00:20:33,280
So equal However what should play more

411
00:20:33,280 --> 00:20:37,360
of a bigger effect is doing a proper

412
00:20:37,360 --> 00:20:39,760
soft catch It's a bit silly to even try

413
00:20:39,760 --> 00:20:42,880
on this uh test setup but let's see if I

414
00:20:42,880 --> 00:20:45,200
can do

415
00:20:46,440 --> 00:20:49,000
anything Half

416
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:52,640
035 compared to the previous one So

417
00:20:52,640 --> 00:20:54,720
that's a good illustration how soft

418
00:20:54,720 --> 00:20:57,600
catch plays a much bigger role And

419
00:20:57,600 --> 00:20:59,240
actually my next video is going to be

420
00:20:59,240 --> 00:21:02,240
about soft catches and catching falls

421
00:21:02,240 --> 00:21:06,159
for my blay master class So stay tuned

422
00:21:06,159 --> 00:21:08,520
All right So

423
00:21:08,520 --> 00:21:11,679
takeaways grigree is definitely smoother

424
00:21:11,679 --> 00:21:14,559
to pull the rope through However this is

425
00:21:14,559 --> 00:21:17,039
only noticeable on thicker ropes like

426
00:21:17,039 --> 00:21:21,440
9.5 or above or some older fuzzier ropes

427
00:21:21,440 --> 00:21:24,080
Now if you bellayed in the past with gri

428
00:21:24,080 --> 00:21:27,440
and you like this index finger hooking

429
00:21:27,440 --> 00:21:31,120
on the lip to pay with slack by gri stay

430
00:21:31,120 --> 00:21:34,240
with gri be happy with gri However if

431
00:21:34,240 --> 00:21:36,080
you're not a fan of touching the blaying

432
00:21:36,080 --> 00:21:39,440
device then pinch is definitely an

433
00:21:39,440 --> 00:21:42,799
amazing alternative for you It works

434
00:21:42,799 --> 00:21:47,600
surprisingly well Very nice And I would

435
00:21:47,600 --> 00:21:48,919
pick

436
00:21:48,919 --> 00:21:52,600
Neos if I would primarily delay like

437
00:21:52,600 --> 00:21:56,720
this or I would use very very thick

438
00:21:56,720 --> 00:22:00,559
beefy ropes like 10 mm or above ropes

439
00:22:00,559 --> 00:22:03,600
It's only usable with Neox And before we

440
00:22:03,600 --> 00:22:05,600
finish I wanted to share a story with

441
00:22:05,600 --> 00:22:08,400
you When I was in university I had a

442
00:22:08,400 --> 00:22:10,799
calculus teacher who was probably one of

443
00:22:10,799 --> 00:22:13,200
the best teachers we had back then there

444
00:22:13,200 --> 00:22:15,520
And that teacher worked at a bank at a

445
00:22:15,520 --> 00:22:17,919
high position in a bank So he was making

446
00:22:17,919 --> 00:22:20,799
much more money in his bank job than

447
00:22:20,799 --> 00:22:23,039
teaching us And because of that one day

448
00:22:23,039 --> 00:22:24,799
somebody asked him like hey what's the

449
00:22:24,799 --> 00:22:26,640
point for you to come here every year

450
00:22:26,640 --> 00:22:29,520
and teach us when you are already there

451
00:22:29,520 --> 00:22:33,679
in your glamorous life and his answer

452
00:22:33,679 --> 00:22:35,760
actually stuck to me till this day He

453
00:22:35,760 --> 00:22:39,679
said well it's an exercise for my brain

454
00:22:39,679 --> 00:22:42,080
and I don't want to forget the basics So

455
00:22:42,080 --> 00:22:44,400
yeah for me that was a very nice message

456
00:22:44,400 --> 00:22:46,480
to never stop learning and that's why

457
00:22:46,480 --> 00:22:48,480
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468
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469
00:23:16,080 --> 00:23:19,039
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470
00:23:19,039 --> 00:23:21,600
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471
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488
00:24:04,000 --> 00:24:09,120
for being curious Enjoy climbing then