[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:08.11,0:00:10.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,-- such a broad spectrum of opinion here,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:10.96,0:00:13.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you know all about\Nthings like quantum physics
Dialogue: 0,0:00:13.60,0:00:17.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and tech, and stuff like that,\NI'm not speaking to a normal crowd
Dialogue: 0,0:00:17.38,0:00:21.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of fashionistas -- I don't know,\Nmaybe some of you are fashionistas --
Dialogue: 0,0:00:21.77,0:00:25.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but I talk to you and\NI do fashion by numbers.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:25.56,0:00:29.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm saying fashion by numbers,\Nnot the numbers,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:29.64,0:00:31.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which I think\Nis more grammatically correct.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:31.73,0:00:33.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, I'm going to talk to you about\Nfashion by numbers,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:33.92,0:00:38.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because I love fashion\Nand I love style,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.83,0:00:41.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I think there's lots\Nof really absorbing things
Dialogue: 0,0:00:41.53,0:00:46.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about the industry and about the idea\Nof expressing ourselves through clothes,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:46.09,0:00:49.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but there are also some issues,\Nwhich we will get to in a minute,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:49.90,0:00:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I think some of the numbers are just\Ngigantic and they're quite illuminating.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.56,0:01:01.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, the first statistic,\Nwhen I was doing a lot of research
Dialogue: 0,0:01:01.38,0:01:06.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the contemporary fashion industry,\Nwas one that I had to estimate
Dialogue: 0,0:01:06.27,0:01:09.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by putting together\Nlots of different research.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:09.35,0:01:13.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I figured out that there are\Nabout 80 billion new garments
Dialogue: 0,0:01:13.03,0:01:15.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that are created every year.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:15.20,0:01:19.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Some of you, like me, might feel that\Nmost of those end up in your wardrobe,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:19.08,0:01:21.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it depends how avaricious\Na buyer you are.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.61,0:01:24.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Some people might feel\Nthat they all end up
Dialogue: 0,0:01:24.13,0:01:26.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in your laundry basket,\Nwhich I also feel,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:26.43,0:01:28.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,having to do my family's laundry.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:28.05,0:01:30.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, that's an estimated number\Nof new garments
Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.39,0:01:32.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,produced worldwide every year.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.37,0:01:35.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now the weird thing is\Nthat we still end up
Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.84,0:01:40.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with 2 million tonnes of textiles,\Nmainly apparel, in landfill every year.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.84,0:01:44.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, we're slinging them away\Nalmost as quickly as we can buy them.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:44.66,0:01:47.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which points to a certain disposability,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:47.03,0:01:51.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a certain throwaway culture,\Nin fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:51.94,0:01:57.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,19 is the number of jeans\Nthat I found in my own wardrobe,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:57.41,0:01:59.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when I did an inventory of my wardrobe.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:59.30,0:02:02.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I would recommend to anybody\Nthat you do an inventory of your wardrobe,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:02.35,0:02:04.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because it's\Nreally, really illuminating.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:04.75,0:02:06.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even if you think that\Nyou're not a fashion addict,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:06.97,0:02:08.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're not a fashion victim,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.55,0:02:12.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will be surprised at\Nhow many duplicates you have.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:12.66,0:02:15.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, I have 19 pairs of jeans\Nand that's significant
Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.98,0:02:18.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because -- not because 19\Nis my lucky number,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:18.42,0:02:20.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it is, that's not why I bought them --
Dialogue: 0,0:02:20.31,0:02:24.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I didn't realize I had 19, because I\Njust kept consuming without realizing,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:24.48,0:02:28.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and when I thought about it,\Nthe environmental footprint
Dialogue: 0,0:02:28.36,0:02:30.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of fashion is absolutely enormous.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:30.73,0:02:35.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, for example, it takes between\N11,000 and 20,000 litres of water
Dialogue: 0,0:02:35.76,0:02:40.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to produce enough cotton\Nfor a single pair of jeans.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:40.08,0:02:43.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then I started to look at\Nthe impact of fashion generally.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:43.69,0:02:46.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, fashion is a full spectrum industry,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:46.50,0:02:48.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and with the exception\Nof the food industry,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:48.38,0:02:53.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and perhaps the energy industry,\Nit's hard to think of any other sector
Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.54,0:02:58.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that owes quite as much\Nto the planet as fashion does.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:59.48,0:03:02.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We're all a nation of fashion addicts,\Nthat's how we've become,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:02.55,0:03:05.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's been enabled really\Nover the last twenty years
Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.15,0:03:08.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by a phenomenon known as fast fashion.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:08.08,0:03:11.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, sometimes,\Nit's quite difficult to imagine
Dialogue: 0,0:03:11.24,0:03:14.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how people got dressed 20 years ago,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:14.42,0:03:17.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,before fast fashion really kicked in,\Nbut we know they did,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:17.93,0:03:21.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but did they all just wear\Nthe same pair of Dralon flares?
Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.24,0:03:22.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How did they actually manage it?
Dialogue: 0,0:03:22.78,0:03:25.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Because what we've done is\Nwe've developed a whole new system
Dialogue: 0,0:03:25.99,0:03:28.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of getting dressed,\Nwhich revolves around
Dialogue: 0,0:03:28.70,0:03:34.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very, very quick microtrends\Nthat can very quickly translate
Dialogue: 0,0:03:34.36,0:03:38.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from the catwalk into our wardrobes\Nand onto the high street.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:38.45,0:03:41.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the UK is\None of the world leaders in this trend.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.49,0:03:44.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We have some of the biggest retailers,\Nsome of the biggest brands,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:44.70,0:03:47.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it has to be said,\Nthat we interpret fast fashion
Dialogue: 0,0:03:47.83,0:03:49.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,quite successfully.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:53.65,0:03:56.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, we think about how fashion\Nactually presents itself.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:56.93,0:03:59.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What it doesn't really do, is tell you
Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.09,0:04:01.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how much it's changed\Nover the last 20 years.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:01.79,0:04:04.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, there will be people here\Nwho've never known anything else.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:04.91,0:04:07.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Lucky them, because\Nthey're nice and young,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.19,0:04:12.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but, there has been\Na completely revolutionized system
Dialogue: 0,0:04:12.57,0:04:17.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the way apparel\Nis produced and sold.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:17.90,0:04:21.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But we really don't get this idea\Nfrom the fashion weeks that we have.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.82,0:04:25.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It presents a very traditional face.\NSo, we have the two seasons,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:25.68,0:04:28.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we have autumn/winter\Nand spring/summer,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.73,0:04:34.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then these are when we trickle\Nthings down from the catwalk into store,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:34.18,0:04:36.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they set the trend\Nof what we're going to be wearing.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:36.98,0:04:40.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In actual fact, those seasons\Nhave got as much in common
Dialogue: 0,0:04:40.65,0:04:43.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the contemporary fashion industry
Dialogue: 0,0:04:43.01,0:04:47.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as Gregorian plainsong has with the\Ncontemporary music industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:47.42,0:04:49.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Absolutely nothing to do with it.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.69,0:04:52.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What really happens\Nis that we're now looking at,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.29,0:04:58.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rather than two or four seasons a year,\Nwe're really looking at 52 seasons a year.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.01,0:05:01.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Every week there are new styles,\Nthere is new stock in shops,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:01.99,0:05:06.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,new stock online, and it's become\Na very, very quick process.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:06.35,0:05:08.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Some people would call it a churn.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.61,0:05:12.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, when I look at the bright young hopes\Nof British fashion,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.50,0:05:15.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we see these brilliant designers\Nhave got something.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:15.15,0:05:18.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Up here we've got Alice Temperley,\Nwe've got Jonathan Saunders,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:18.59,0:05:20.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Roksanda Ilincic.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:20.62,0:05:23.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, these are great names,\Ngreat hopes for the future.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:23.51,0:05:25.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then we hear about the people
Dialogue: 0,0:05:25.53,0:05:29.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who basically succeed\Nto the big luxury conglomerates
Dialogue: 0,0:05:29.09,0:05:30.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and take over those brands.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:30.83,0:05:33.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And these are big, big names,\Ngoing out there
Dialogue: 0,0:05:33.21,0:05:35.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into this multi-billion pound sector
Dialogue: 0,0:05:35.55,0:05:38.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and representing British style.\NBut often I think,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:38.71,0:05:42.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,'Will they be OK?'\NBecause, actually, it's not just
Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.27,0:05:45.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fast fashion or high street fashion\Nthat's become super fast,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:45.88,0:05:49.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but also the luxury industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:50.84,0:05:53.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is the way\Nthat we really, really shop;
Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.08,0:05:57.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we shop in a mob, we shop in bulk\Nand we buy very cheap.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:57.43,0:05:59.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, one of the things\NI really like to do
Dialogue: 0,0:05:59.55,0:06:02.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is to hang around outside shops,\Nmaybe not as crowded as this,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:02.88,0:06:06.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and actually go through people's bags,\Nwith their consent,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:06.08,0:06:10.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as they come out -- I do ask first --\Nand it's amazing
Dialogue: 0,0:06:10.25,0:06:14.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how many people buy in bulk\Nand buy duplicates these days.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:14.47,0:06:16.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And one of my favourite observations,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:16.91,0:06:19.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,although it does not say\Nparticularly good things,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:19.68,0:06:24.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is that a colleague of mine was watching\Noutside Primark one day,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:24.28,0:06:26.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or just kind of loitering nearby,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:26.38,0:06:29.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and a girl came out\Nwith four of these bags.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:29.42,0:06:32.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, it could have happened\Nin lots of different stores,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:32.22,0:06:34.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but Primark use these paper bags,\Nand it was raining,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:34.79,0:06:37.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it was really, really raining,\Nthe bag got completely soaked,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:37.84,0:06:41.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,while she was waiting for a bus,\Nor whatever, and it fell apart.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:41.19,0:06:44.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And she just left these clothes,\Nthese brand new clothes,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:44.30,0:06:47.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,she just left them on the pavement\Nand walked off.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:47.17,0:06:51.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, my contention is that if we produce,\Nif we design for landfill,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:51.76,0:06:55.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if we produce clothes that are\Neffectively disposable,
Dialogue: 0,0:06:55.22,0:06:58.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we will all start to treat them\Nlike litter.
Dialogue: 0,0:06:58.52,0:07:01.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, I'm not saying that this also\Nhappens for luxury goods,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:01.38,0:07:04.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because I think if you're spending\Na grand on a handbag,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:04.02,0:07:06.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're probably going to be\Na little bit more careful,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:06.48,0:07:08.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but the same cycle and the same churn
Dialogue: 0,0:07:08.49,0:07:11.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is starting to happen\Nthroughout the fashion landscape.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:11.61,0:07:15.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, effectively,\Nthese designers that we saw,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.02,0:07:18.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,those shiny-faced, hopeful, big prospects\Nof British fashion
Dialogue: 0,0:07:18.81,0:07:23.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and all round the world in fact,\Nactually are in a similar churn.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:23.20,0:07:26.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, they're not just doing \Nthe autumn/winter, the spring/summer,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:26.23,0:07:30.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they're also having to work\Non pre-fall/fall collections,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:30.18,0:07:32.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,resort-wear, yacht-wear,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:32.62,0:07:35.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,getting on a yacht, getting off a yacht,\Npost-yacht, pre-yacht,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.99,0:07:38.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who are all these people\Nthat they are designing for?
Dialogue: 0,0:07:38.86,0:07:40.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Who has all these yachts?
Dialogue: 0,0:07:40.92,0:07:42.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(Laughter)
Dialogue: 0,0:07:42.33,0:07:47.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, let's just unravel fast fashion\Njust a little bit.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:47.04,0:07:50.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, there are some very good points\Nabout fast fashion by the way.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:50.18,0:07:55.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all, it breeds life into\Na rather stagnant British high street.
Dialogue: 0,0:07:55.13,0:07:57.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Those of you who are\Nold enough to remember
Dialogue: 0,0:07:57.51,0:07:59.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will remember there was\Na certain lack of choice,
Dialogue: 0,0:07:59.84,0:08:03.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a certain sort of look\Nthat the high street had,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:03.48,0:08:08.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maybe 20-25 years ago, which wasn't\Nthat appealing, wasn't that aspirational.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.37,0:08:11.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, the high street brands\Nhave really democratized style,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:11.66,0:08:13.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're able to get hold of it.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:13.49,0:08:17.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I remember moving to London\Nand coming back to the North West,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:17.24,0:08:20.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and people used to come up to me and say,\N'Oh, did you get that in London?'
Dialogue: 0,0:08:20.97,0:08:23.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I mean that doesn't happen now,\Nit happens in the reverse.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:23.69,0:08:26.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You know, that's how democratize\Nstyle has become.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:26.88,0:08:29.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, 814 million garments a year,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:29.95,0:08:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is also an estimate, are produced\Nby Zara/Inditex, the Spanish brand.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.20,0:08:36.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That's a lot of clothes.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:36.66,0:08:40.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And they have 45,000 designs,\Nso their designers
Dialogue: 0,0:08:40.21,0:08:43.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are constantly coming up with trends,\Nevery single year.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:43.12,0:08:46.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Not all of those will get into store,\Nbut a large proportion of them will,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:46.66,0:08:51.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which shows you where this engine\Nis coming from, all these micro-trends.
Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.19,0:08:53.100,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,When Zara started in the UK,\Nnobody understood it,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:53.100,0:08:56.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because you'd go in there,\Nand the consumer would say,
Dialogue: 0,0:08:56.99,0:08:59.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,'Well, this is nice,\Nmaybe a little bit expensive.'
Dialogue: 0,0:08:59.68,0:09:02.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then they'll say,\N'I'll think about it, I'll come back.'
Dialogue: 0,0:09:02.84,0:09:05.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They'll come back\Nand it wouldn't be there,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:05.41,0:09:08.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because shops these days don't re-stock,\Nthey don't need to,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:08.44,0:09:10.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because they've moved\Non to the next trend.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:10.61,0:09:13.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If you blink, you miss it.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:13.78,0:09:17.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Number 3 -- I'm still doing\Nthe fashion in numbers thing.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:17.26,0:09:20.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is the position of Amancio Ortega\Nwho owns Zara,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:20.96,0:09:25.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the international rich list.\NHe's the 3rd richest man in the world.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:25.54,0:09:29.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There's a lot of money\Nin this fast fashion business.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.14,0:09:32.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Here's Philip Green, maybe this is where\Nall the resort yacht wear is going to,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.82,0:09:35.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because he has a yacht.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:35.19,0:09:39.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is the little picture\Nof a village, somewhere in England,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:39.26,0:09:42.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a whole village, that has been bought\Nby Stefan Persson,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:42.71,0:09:45.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who is the CEO of H&M.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:45.39,0:09:49.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, that gives you some idea of the riches\Nthat we're talking about.
Dialogue: 0,0:09:49.06,0:09:53.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I mention that, not because it's illegal\Nto make money, because it's not,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:53.63,0:09:56.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but just to show you\Na little bit of disparity,
Dialogue: 0,0:09:56.02,0:10:02.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because who is the real engine\Nof this fashion churn, this fashion cycle?
Dialogue: 0,0:10:02.10,0:10:05.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It happens in Bangladesh.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:05.89,0:10:10.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It happens in other countries too,\Nbut Bangladesh, 80% of the GDP
Dialogue: 0,0:10:10.48,0:10:13.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is constituted by\Nthe ready-made garment industry,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.36,0:10:16.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's the equivalent of $20 billion.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:16.12,0:10:18.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, when we talk\Nabout problems there,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:18.02,0:10:22.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it is not feasible for companies to cut\Nand run, because, as you can see,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.56,0:10:26.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that economy is dependent on this trade.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:26.57,0:10:31.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, I put this in, because there was\Na recent power list of fashion,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:31.15,0:10:36.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I counted 4 muses in the top 30.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:36.08,0:10:39.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, I'm not really sure\Nwhat a muse does,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:39.05,0:10:42.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but there were four muses and there was\Nno mention of the people
Dialogue: 0,0:10:42.02,0:10:43.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that actually make the clothes,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:43.87,0:10:45.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which I thought was\Nreally, really interesting,
Dialogue: 0,0:10:45.86,0:10:50.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I think this really shines a light\Non a problem in the whole industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:50.02,0:10:54.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, there's 101 processes\Nto making a garment.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:54.49,0:10:59.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just 6 to 8 of those are done\Nin factories like the ones in Bangladesh.
Dialogue: 0,0:10:59.78,0:11:06.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And these are basically\Nwhat the cut, make and trim army do.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:06.71,0:11:11.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And by conservative estimate,\Nthere's 3 million, mainly young women,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:11.89,0:11:14.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who work in this cut, make and trim army,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:14.13,0:11:17.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and these are the core part\Nof the supply chain,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:17.35,0:11:23.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when they're actually\Nputting the piece together.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:23.06,0:11:26.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,These are vast factories,\Nvast, vast production lines.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:26.92,0:11:32.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, 48.5 seconds is the time\Nthat it's estimated it should take
Dialogue: 0,0:11:32.52,0:11:38.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one of the people on this production stage\Nto actually sew a seam.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.17,0:11:41.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's relentless, relentless work.\NThis is a quote from Ali Hewson,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.53,0:11:45.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who set up the EDUN brand,\N'We carry the story of the people
Dialogue: 0,0:11:45.26,0:11:47.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who make our clothes around with us.'
Dialogue: 0,0:11:47.63,0:11:49.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we do,\Nbut we don't acknowledge it,
Dialogue: 0,0:11:49.64,0:11:51.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is why I showed\Nthat picture of the muse
Dialogue: 0,0:11:51.82,0:11:53.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I point to that power list.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:53.38,0:11:58.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,These are the unseen, the hidden people\Nin the supply chain.
Dialogue: 0,0:11:58.45,0:12:02.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,5,600 -- that's the number\Nof garment factories
Dialogue: 0,0:12:02.04,0:12:05.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that Bangladesh has,\Nmainly centred around Dhaka.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:05.83,0:12:08.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At last count,\Nwhen this report came out,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:08.52,0:12:11.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there were less than 200 inspectors --
Dialogue: 0,0:12:11.00,0:12:14.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I think that should be fewer,\Nbut I'm just being pedantic.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:14.80,0:12:20.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, in 1911 we have the biggest tragedy\Nin the garment sector to date.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.72,0:12:23.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that was the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire;
Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.67,0:12:27.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that was\Nin New York's garment district.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.02,0:12:32.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,146 people died in 18 minutes,\Nand this was the worst disaster
Dialogue: 0,0:12:32.33,0:12:35.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we'd ever seen in this sector.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:35.49,0:12:37.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that prompted,\Nnot a revolution,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:37.84,0:12:40.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but a lot of picketing,\Na big labour movement,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:40.97,0:12:42.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it's still acknowledged.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:42.45,0:12:45.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Every year on the anniversary,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:45.92,0:12:49.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,people will go and acknowledge,\Nthe trade unions will acknowledge,
Dialogue: 0,0:12:49.18,0:12:51.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that that disaster happened.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:51.34,0:12:54.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And what really struck me was\Nthat we never acknowledge.
Dialogue: 0,0:12:54.18,0:12:58.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There were lots and lots of factory deaths\Nand fire deaths and stampedes
Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.41,0:13:02.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in factories, lots of fatalities,\Nthat were happening in the supply chain.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:02.05,0:13:06.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Probably one or two a month\Nthat we learn about through our era,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:06.22,0:13:08.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we never really said\Nanything about it.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:08.26,0:13:12.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But this number, we can't really\Nmake it go away, and we can't ignore.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:12.62,0:13:18.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is 1,133 -- which is the number\Nof people who died on the 24th April
Dialogue: 0,0:13:18.35,0:13:21.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at Rana Plaza.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:21.37,0:13:24.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rana Plaza basically collapsed like\Na house of cards.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:24.71,0:13:28.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There were 2,000 people working in it,\Nit was a mixed-use complex,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:28.38,0:13:30.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but, it was the garment workers that died,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:30.84,0:13:34.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because the garment workers were\Nthe only workers that were sent back in,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:34.32,0:13:43.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and unfortunately that is a common story,\Nthe garment workers are always in there.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.08,0:13:46.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,These images are probably not unfamiliar,\Nbecause they were broadcast
Dialogue: 0,0:13:46.44,0:13:50.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,around the world, and, for the first time,\Nwe had news agencies
Dialogue: 0,0:13:50.12,0:13:52.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,actually interviewing\Nthese garment workers,
Dialogue: 0,0:13:52.86,0:13:54.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and actually getting their testimonies.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.91,0:13:58.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The difference was that\Nthey were actually under rubble.
Dialogue: 0,0:13:58.04,0:14:00.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, they're the statistics, well,\Nthe bold statistics,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:00.51,0:14:05.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,2,500 injured, 700 children left,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:05.26,0:14:08.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the Rana Plaza battle\Nfor compensation continues.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:08.66,0:14:13.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But it did make a stink. Who makes\Nour clothes? Where do they come from?
Dialogue: 0,0:14:13.45,0:14:15.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not the only thing\Nin the supply chain.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:15.68,0:14:17.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is just about\NUzbekistan's cotton industry;
Dialogue: 0,0:14:17.94,0:14:22.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,1.5 million children, who are alleged\Nto be involved in the harvest.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.54,0:14:24.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this happens every year.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:24.33,0:14:26.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They're sent out into the fields\Naround September time,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:26.89,0:14:32.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they will pick the harvest, which is\Nthen sold in the international market.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:32.94,0:14:35.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And this is Gulnara,\Nthis is the dictator's daughter,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:35.74,0:14:38.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I put this in,\Nbecause this is her at fashion week
Dialogue: 0,0:14:38.29,0:14:39.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,showing her own collection.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:39.70,0:14:41.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, you see this terrible dichotomy,
Dialogue: 0,0:14:41.77,0:14:47.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of how we're hiding this kind\Nof slave labour in the fashion industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:47.10,0:14:50.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Can we do it better?\NYes, we can.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:50.04,0:14:53.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, I think\Nthe whole sustainable style movement
Dialogue: 0,0:14:53.32,0:14:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has been slightly typified, and held back,\Nbecause people fear tie-dye.
Dialogue: 0,0:14:57.44,0:14:59.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,They fear that we're going to have to wear
Dialogue: 0,0:14:59.40,0:15:02.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this kind of\Nknit-your-own tofu hat aesthetic,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:02.16,0:15:04.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they're really, really not up for it.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:04.18,0:15:06.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, what I did was get together\Nwith some friends,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:06.71,0:15:09.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we launched something,\Nwe didn't call it granola chic,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:09.80,0:15:12.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we called it the Green Carpet Challenge.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:12.72,0:15:15.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, we're just trying\Nto play around with some ideas.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:15.65,0:15:19.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I love this. This is a photograph \Nby a seminal fashion photographer
Dialogue: 0,0:15:19.03,0:15:20.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called Lillian Bassman.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:20.52,0:15:23.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And she didn't mean anything\Nsustainable when she did it,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:23.26,0:15:26.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but I love the idea of\Nmore fashion mileage per dress.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:26.04,0:15:29.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, here's another figure I'd love you\Nto remember, which is 30.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:29.55,0:15:32.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Don't buy anything unless\Nyou can guarantee to yourself
Dialogue: 0,0:15:32.84,0:15:37.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that you're going to wear it 30 times.\NThat's a really good marker.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:37.94,0:15:39.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, we started the Green Carpet Challenge,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:39.92,0:15:44.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we charged designers with\Nmaking us something sustainable.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:44.28,0:15:46.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is an Armani dress.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:46.50,0:15:51.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And 40, that's the number of A-Listers\Nthat we've sent down red carpets
Dialogue: 0,0:15:51.32,0:15:53.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from the Oscars, to the Globes,\Nto the whatever
Dialogue: 0,0:15:53.80,0:15:55.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all in these sustainable outfits.
Dialogue: 0,0:15:55.67,0:15:58.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We wanted to prove\Nto the fashion industry, to the editors,
Dialogue: 0,0:15:58.68,0:16:00.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to everybody watching,\Nthat it could be done,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:00.86,0:16:04.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it could be desirable.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:04.54,0:16:08.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There's more of them.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:08.43,0:16:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we wanted to work\Nin the supply chain,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:10.40,0:16:13.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so, we started looking at things\Nlike the leather chain.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:13.46,0:16:16.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,11 billion pairs of shoes\Nare made every year.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:16.46,0:16:19.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,60% of the leather goes to shoes.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:19.44,0:16:22.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, when you see a shoe\Nand it says made in Italy,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:22.33,0:16:25.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you think, 'OK, great.'\NAnd then you ask the people in the shop,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:25.69,0:16:27.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they say,\N'Yeah, the leather's Italian.'
Dialogue: 0,0:16:27.78,0:16:31.45,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It can't be, because if it were, the whole\Nof Italy would be covered in cows.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:31.45,0:16:34.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There'd be cows round the Trevi Fountain,\Nit can't be.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:34.13,0:16:36.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No, they're often from Brazil or China,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:36.72,0:16:40.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and in Brazil,\Ndeforestation is being driven
Dialogue: 0,0:16:40.10,0:16:41.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by the meat and leather industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:41.76,0:16:44.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, we wanted to make a market\Nfor clean leather.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:44.81,0:16:48.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Leather that we could prove\Nwas zero deforestation.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:48.88,0:16:51.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, we went to Gucci,\Nwho came up with this little bag,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:51.49,0:16:53.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I don't think\Nthis looks sustainable at all.
Dialogue: 0,0:16:53.66,0:16:56.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's not made of hemp,\Nit's not very granola,
Dialogue: 0,0:16:56.36,0:16:58.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it just looks like a bag.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:00.10,0:17:04.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,100+ companies have now signed\Nthe Bangladesh Fire Safety Accord.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:04.71,0:17:07.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, I'm not going to explain why,\Nbecause I'm running out of time,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:07.89,0:17:10.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but it is, I think,\Na very, very important marker,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:10.59,0:17:14.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I think, given time, it could make\Na real, real difference.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.32,0:17:16.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What I would urge you to do\Nis keep an eye,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:16.88,0:17:19.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just keep abreast\Nof what's happening in fashion,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:19.30,0:17:24.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and where you buy and who signed what;\Nit's really, really important.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:24.87,0:17:27.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,2p, add that onto a £6 T-shirt,
Dialogue: 0,0:17:27.81,0:17:31.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that would double the wages\Nof a garment worker in Bangladesh.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:31.77,0:17:34.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now, I think that's a cost\Nthat we can probably absorb.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:34.55,0:17:37.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,24th April, that's the other date\NI want you to remember.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:37.43,0:17:40.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,24, remember that number,\Nit's the anniversary
Dialogue: 0,0:17:40.99,0:17:45.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of Rana Plaza,\Nand it's Fashion Revolution Day.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:45.22,0:17:46.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Thank you.
Dialogue: 0,0:17:46.94,0:17:50.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(Applause)