0:00:08.106,0:00:10.962
-- such a broad spectrum of opinion here,

0:00:10.962,0:00:13.603
and you know all about[br]things like quantum physics

0:00:13.603,0:00:17.378
and tech, and stuff like that,[br]I'm not speaking to a normal crowd

0:00:17.378,0:00:21.774
of fashionistas -- I don't know,[br]maybe some of you are fashionistas --

0:00:21.774,0:00:25.563
but I talk to you and[br]I do fashion by numbers.

0:00:25.563,0:00:29.635
I'm saying fashion by numbers,[br]not the numbers,

0:00:29.635,0:00:31.728
which I think[br]is more grammatically correct.

0:00:31.728,0:00:33.925
Now, I'm going to talk to you about[br]fashion by numbers,

0:00:33.925,0:00:38.827
because I love fashion[br]and I love style,

0:00:38.827,0:00:41.528
and I think there's lots[br]of really absorbing things

0:00:41.528,0:00:46.089
about the industry and about the idea[br]of expressing ourselves through clothes,

0:00:46.089,0:00:49.905
but there are also some issues,[br]which we will get to in a minute,

0:00:49.905,0:00:56.557
and I think some of the numbers are just[br]gigantic and they're quite illuminating.

0:00:56.557,0:01:01.380
So, the first statistic,[br]when I was doing a lot of research

0:01:01.380,0:01:06.274
on the contemporary fashion industry,[br]was one that I had to estimate

0:01:06.274,0:01:09.353
by putting together[br]lots of different research.

0:01:09.353,0:01:13.033
And I figured out that there are[br]about 80 billion new garments

0:01:13.033,0:01:15.196
that are created every year.

0:01:15.196,0:01:19.078
Some of you, like me, might feel that[br]most of those end up in your wardrobe,

0:01:19.078,0:01:21.609
it depends how avaricious[br]a buyer you are.

0:01:21.609,0:01:24.134
Some people might feel[br]that they all end up

0:01:24.134,0:01:26.431
in your laundry basket,[br]which I also feel,

0:01:26.431,0:01:28.051
having to do my family's laundry.

0:01:28.051,0:01:30.387
So, that's an estimated number[br]of new garments

0:01:30.387,0:01:32.366
produced worldwide every year.

0:01:32.366,0:01:35.837
Now the weird thing is[br]that we still end up

0:01:35.837,0:01:40.839
with 2 million tonnes of textiles,[br]mainly apparel, in landfill every year.

0:01:40.839,0:01:44.655
So, we're slinging them away[br]almost as quickly as we can buy them.

0:01:44.655,0:01:47.026
Which points to a certain disposability,

0:01:47.026,0:01:51.945
a certain throwaway culture,[br]in fashion.

0:01:51.945,0:01:57.412
19 is the number of jeans[br]that I found in my own wardrobe,

0:01:57.412,0:01:59.302
when I did an inventory of my wardrobe.

0:01:59.302,0:02:02.349
And I would recommend to anybody[br]that you do an inventory of your wardrobe,

0:02:02.349,0:02:04.754
because it's[br]really, really illuminating.

0:02:04.754,0:02:06.972
even if you think that[br]you're not a fashion addict,

0:02:06.972,0:02:08.548
you're not a fashion victim,

0:02:08.548,0:02:12.655
you will be surprised at[br]how many duplicates you have.

0:02:12.655,0:02:15.975
So, I have 19 pairs of jeans[br]and that's significant

0:02:15.975,0:02:18.417
because -- not because 19[br]is my lucky number,

0:02:18.417,0:02:20.306
but it is, that's not why I bought them --

0:02:20.306,0:02:24.482
I didn't realize I had 19, because I[br]just kept consuming without realizing,

0:02:24.482,0:02:28.357
and when I thought about it,[br]the environmental footprint

0:02:28.357,0:02:30.732
of fashion is absolutely enormous.

0:02:30.732,0:02:35.761
So, for example, it takes between[br]11,000 and 20,000 litres of water

0:02:35.761,0:02:40.085
to produce enough cotton[br]for a single pair of jeans.

0:02:40.085,0:02:43.690
And then I started to look at[br]the impact of fashion generally.

0:02:43.690,0:02:46.495
Now, fashion is a full spectrum industry,

0:02:46.495,0:02:48.376
and with the exception[br]of the food industry,

0:02:48.376,0:02:53.540
and perhaps the energy industry,[br]it's hard to think of any other sector

0:02:53.540,0:02:58.167
that owes quite as much[br]to the planet as fashion does.

0:02:59.482,0:03:02.551
We're all a nation of fashion addicts,[br]that's how we've become,

0:03:02.551,0:03:05.151
and that's been enabled really[br]over the last twenty years

0:03:05.151,0:03:08.075
by a phenomenon known as fast fashion.

0:03:08.075,0:03:11.240
Now, sometimes,[br]it's quite difficult to imagine

0:03:11.240,0:03:14.425
how people got dressed 20 years ago,

0:03:14.425,0:03:17.929
before fast fashion really kicked in,[br]but we know they did,

0:03:17.929,0:03:21.240
but did they all just wear[br]the same pair of Dralon flares?

0:03:21.240,0:03:22.780
How did they actually manage it?

0:03:22.780,0:03:25.993
Because what we've done is[br]we've developed a whole new system

0:03:25.993,0:03:28.697
of getting dressed,[br]which revolves around

0:03:28.697,0:03:34.358
very, very quick microtrends[br]that can very quickly translate

0:03:34.358,0:03:38.448
from the catwalk into our wardrobes[br]and onto the high street.

0:03:38.448,0:03:41.490
And the UK is[br]one of the world leaders in this trend.

0:03:41.490,0:03:44.700
We have some of the biggest retailers,[br]some of the biggest brands,

0:03:44.700,0:03:47.831
and it has to be said,[br]that we interpret fast fashion

0:03:47.831,0:03:49.930
quite successfully.

0:03:53.651,0:03:56.934
So, we think about how fashion[br]actually presents itself.

0:03:56.934,0:03:59.094
What it doesn't really do, is tell you

0:03:59.094,0:04:01.791
how much it's changed[br]over the last 20 years.

0:04:01.791,0:04:04.913
So, there will be people here[br]who've never known anything else.

0:04:04.913,0:04:07.189
Lucky them, because[br]they're nice and young,

0:04:07.189,0:04:12.568
but, there has been[br]a completely revolutionized system

0:04:12.568,0:04:17.897
to the way apparel[br]is produced and sold.

0:04:17.897,0:04:21.822
But we really don't get this idea[br]from the fashion weeks that we have.

0:04:21.822,0:04:25.681
It presents a very traditional face.[br]So, we have the two seasons,

0:04:25.681,0:04:28.730
we have autumn/winter[br]and spring/summer,

0:04:28.730,0:04:34.180
and then these are when we trickle[br]things down from the catwalk into store,

0:04:34.180,0:04:36.979
and they set the trend[br]of what we're going to be wearing.

0:04:36.979,0:04:40.648
In actual fact, those seasons[br]have got as much in common

0:04:40.648,0:04:43.007
with the contemporary fashion industry

0:04:43.007,0:04:47.416
as Gregorian plainsong has with the[br]contemporary music industry.

0:04:47.416,0:04:49.689
Absolutely nothing to do with it.

0:04:49.689,0:04:52.289
What really happens[br]is that we're now looking at,

0:04:52.289,0:04:58.008
rather than two or four seasons a year,[br]we're really looking at 52 seasons a year.

0:04:58.008,0:05:01.994
Every week there are new styles,[br]there is new stock in shops,

0:05:01.994,0:05:06.346
new stock online, and it's become[br]a very, very quick process.

0:05:06.346,0:05:08.606
Some people would call it a churn.

0:05:08.606,0:05:12.495
Now, when I look at the bright young hopes[br]of British fashion,

0:05:12.495,0:05:15.153
and we see these brilliant designers[br]have got something.

0:05:15.153,0:05:18.591
Up here we've got Alice Temperley,[br]we've got Jonathan Saunders,

0:05:18.591,0:05:20.624
Roksanda Ilincic.

0:05:20.624,0:05:23.514
So, these are great names,[br]great hopes for the future.

0:05:23.514,0:05:25.533
And then we hear about the people

0:05:25.533,0:05:29.093
who basically succeed[br]to the big luxury conglomerates

0:05:29.093,0:05:30.830
and take over those brands.

0:05:30.830,0:05:33.213
And these are big, big names,[br]going out there

0:05:33.213,0:05:35.546
into this multi-billion pound sector

0:05:35.546,0:05:38.706
and representing British style.[br]But often I think,

0:05:38.706,0:05:42.272
'Will they be OK?'[br]Because, actually, it's not just

0:05:42.272,0:05:45.885
fast fashion or high street fashion[br]that's become super fast,

0:05:45.885,0:05:49.163
but also the luxury industry.

0:05:50.836,0:05:53.081
This is the way[br]that we really, really shop;

0:05:53.081,0:05:57.433
we shop in a mob, we shop in bulk[br]and we buy very cheap.

0:05:57.433,0:05:59.548
Now, one of the things[br]I really like to do

0:05:59.548,0:06:02.879
is to hang around outside shops,[br]maybe not as crowded as this,

0:06:02.879,0:06:06.075
and actually go through people's bags,[br]with their consent,

0:06:06.075,0:06:10.254
as they come out -- I do ask first --[br]and it's amazing

0:06:10.254,0:06:14.471
how many people buy in bulk[br]and buy duplicates these days.

0:06:14.471,0:06:16.907
And one of my favourite observations,

0:06:16.907,0:06:19.675
although it does not say[br]particularly good things,

0:06:19.675,0:06:24.283
is that a colleague of mine was watching[br]outside Primark one day,

0:06:24.283,0:06:26.380
or just kind of loitering nearby,

0:06:26.380,0:06:29.415
and a girl came out[br]with four of these bags.

0:06:29.415,0:06:32.215
Now, it could have happened[br]in lots of different stores,

0:06:32.215,0:06:34.787
but Primark use these paper bags,[br]and it was raining,

0:06:34.787,0:06:37.843
it was really, really raining,[br]the bag got completely soaked,

0:06:37.843,0:06:41.194
while she was waiting for a bus,[br]or whatever, and it fell apart.

0:06:41.194,0:06:44.296
And she just left these clothes,[br]these brand new clothes,

0:06:44.296,0:06:47.173
she just left them on the pavement[br]and walked off.

0:06:47.173,0:06:51.756
Now, my contention is that if we produce,[br]if we design for landfill,

0:06:51.756,0:06:55.220
if we produce clothes that are[br]effectively disposable,

0:06:55.220,0:06:58.525
we will all start to treat them[br]like litter.

0:06:58.525,0:07:01.378
Now, I'm not saying that this also[br]happens for luxury goods,

0:07:01.378,0:07:04.025
because I think if you're spending[br]a grand on a handbag,

0:07:04.025,0:07:06.481
you're probably going to be[br]a little bit more careful,

0:07:06.481,0:07:08.488
but the same cycle and the same churn

0:07:08.488,0:07:11.614
is starting to happen[br]throughout the fashion landscape.

0:07:11.614,0:07:15.018
So, effectively,[br]these designers that we saw,

0:07:15.018,0:07:18.812
those shiny-faced, hopeful, big prospects[br]of British fashion

0:07:18.812,0:07:23.199
and all round the world in fact,[br]actually are in a similar churn.

0:07:23.199,0:07:26.227
So, they're not just doing [br]the autumn/winter, the spring/summer,

0:07:26.227,0:07:30.184
they're also having to work[br]on pre-fall/fall collections,

0:07:30.184,0:07:32.625
resort-wear, yacht-wear,

0:07:32.625,0:07:35.989
getting on a yacht, getting off a yacht,[br]post-yacht, pre-yacht,

0:07:35.989,0:07:38.855
who are all these people[br]that they are designing for?

0:07:38.855,0:07:40.917
Who has all these yachts?

0:07:40.917,0:07:42.329
(Laughter)

0:07:42.329,0:07:47.037
So, let's just unravel fast fashion[br]just a little bit.

0:07:47.037,0:07:50.185
So, there are some very good points[br]about fast fashion by the way.

0:07:50.185,0:07:55.133
First of all, it breeds life into[br]a rather stagnant British high street.

0:07:55.133,0:07:57.513
Those of you who are[br]old enough to remember

0:07:57.513,0:07:59.835
will remember there was[br]a certain lack of choice,

0:07:59.835,0:08:03.481
a certain sort of look[br]that the high street had,

0:08:03.481,0:08:08.371
maybe 20-25 years ago, which wasn't[br]that appealing, wasn't that aspirational.

0:08:08.371,0:08:11.661
So, the high street brands[br]have really democratized style,

0:08:11.661,0:08:13.489
you're able to get hold of it.

0:08:13.489,0:08:17.236
I remember moving to London[br]and coming back to the North West,

0:08:17.236,0:08:20.972
and people used to come up to me and say,[br]'Oh, did you get that in London?'

0:08:20.972,0:08:23.688
I mean that doesn't happen now,[br]it happens in the reverse.

0:08:23.688,0:08:26.882
You know, that's how democratize[br]style has become.

0:08:26.882,0:08:29.948
So, 814 million garments a year,

0:08:29.948,0:08:35.205
this is also an estimate, are produced[br]by Zara/Inditex, the Spanish brand.

0:08:35.205,0:08:36.657
That's a lot of clothes.

0:08:36.657,0:08:40.207
And they have 45,000 designs,[br]so their designers

0:08:40.207,0:08:43.121
are constantly coming up with trends,[br]every single year.

0:08:43.121,0:08:46.662
Not all of those will get into store,[br]but a large proportion of them will,

0:08:46.662,0:08:51.189
which shows you where this engine[br]is coming from, all these micro-trends.

0:08:51.189,0:08:53.997
When Zara started in the UK,[br]nobody understood it,

0:08:53.997,0:08:56.992
because you'd go in there,[br]and the consumer would say,

0:08:56.992,0:08:59.675
'Well, this is nice,[br]maybe a little bit expensive.'

0:08:59.675,0:09:02.845
And then they'll say,[br]'I'll think about it, I'll come back.'

0:09:02.845,0:09:05.414
They'll come back[br]and it wouldn't be there,

0:09:05.414,0:09:08.438
because shops these days don't re-stock,[br]they don't need to,

0:09:08.438,0:09:10.612
because they've moved[br]on to the next trend.

0:09:10.612,0:09:13.783
If you blink, you miss it.

0:09:13.783,0:09:17.264
Number 3 -- I'm still doing[br]the fashion in numbers thing.

0:09:17.264,0:09:20.960
This is the position of Amancio Ortega[br]who owns Zara,

0:09:20.960,0:09:25.542
on the international rich list.[br]He's the 3rd richest man in the world.

0:09:25.542,0:09:29.145
There's a lot of money[br]in this fast fashion business.

0:09:29.145,0:09:32.822
Here's Philip Green, maybe this is where[br]all the resort yacht wear is going to,

0:09:32.822,0:09:35.194
because he has a yacht.

0:09:35.194,0:09:39.265
And this is the little picture[br]of a village, somewhere in England,

0:09:39.265,0:09:42.707
a whole village, that has been bought[br]by Stefan Persson,

0:09:42.707,0:09:45.392
who is the CEO of H&M.

0:09:45.392,0:09:49.063
So, that gives you some idea of the riches[br]that we're talking about.

0:09:49.063,0:09:53.632
I mention that, not because it's illegal[br]to make money, because it's not,

0:09:53.632,0:09:56.018
but just to show you[br]a little bit of disparity,

0:09:56.018,0:10:02.100
because who is the real engine[br]of this fashion churn, this fashion cycle?

0:10:02.100,0:10:05.889
It happens in Bangladesh.

0:10:05.889,0:10:10.477
It happens in other countries too,[br]but Bangladesh, 80% of the GDP

0:10:10.477,0:10:13.358
is constituted by[br]the ready-made garment industry,

0:10:13.358,0:10:16.125
and that's the equivalent of $20 billion.

0:10:16.125,0:10:18.021
So, when we talk[br]about problems there,

0:10:18.021,0:10:22.555
it is not feasible for companies to cut[br]and run, because, as you can see,

0:10:22.555,0:10:26.568
that economy is dependent on this trade.

0:10:26.568,0:10:31.150
Now, I put this in, because there was[br]a recent power list of fashion,

0:10:31.150,0:10:36.076
and I counted 4 muses in the top 30.

0:10:36.076,0:10:39.047
Now, I'm not really sure[br]what a muse does,

0:10:39.047,0:10:42.021
but there were four muses and there was[br]no mention of the people

0:10:42.021,0:10:43.866
that actually make the clothes,

0:10:43.866,0:10:45.858
which I thought was[br]really, really interesting,

0:10:45.858,0:10:50.023
and I think this really shines a light[br]on a problem in the whole industry.

0:10:50.023,0:10:54.493
So, there's 101 processes[br]to making a garment.

0:10:54.493,0:10:59.783
Just 6 to 8 of those are done[br]in factories like the ones in Bangladesh.

0:10:59.783,0:11:06.713
And these are basically[br]what the cut, make and trim army do.

0:11:06.713,0:11:11.887
And by conservative estimate,[br]there's 3 million, mainly young women,

0:11:11.887,0:11:14.133
who work in this cut, make and trim army,

0:11:14.133,0:11:17.349
and these are the core part[br]of the supply chain,

0:11:17.349,0:11:23.064
when they're actually[br]putting the piece together.

0:11:23.064,0:11:26.924
These are vast factories,[br]vast, vast production lines.

0:11:26.924,0:11:32.522
Now, 48.5 seconds is the time[br]that it's estimated it should take

0:11:32.522,0:11:38.168
one of the people on this production stage[br]to actually sew a seam.

0:11:38.168,0:11:41.533
It's relentless, relentless work.[br]This is a quote from Ali Hewson,

0:11:41.533,0:11:45.265
who set up the EDUN brand,[br]'We carry the story of the people

0:11:45.265,0:11:47.634
who make our clothes around with us.'

0:11:47.634,0:11:49.641
And we do,[br]but we don't acknowledge it,

0:11:49.641,0:11:51.818
which is why I showed[br]that picture of the muse

0:11:51.818,0:11:53.385
and I point to that power list.

0:11:53.385,0:11:58.047
These are the unseen, the hidden people[br]in the supply chain.

0:11:58.454,0:12:02.041
5,600 -- that's the number[br]of garment factories

0:12:02.041,0:12:05.830
that Bangladesh has,[br]mainly centred around Dhaka.

0:12:05.830,0:12:08.520
At last count,[br]when this report came out,

0:12:08.520,0:12:11.003
there were less than 200 inspectors --

0:12:11.003,0:12:14.795
I think that should be fewer,[br]but I'm just being pedantic.

0:12:14.795,0:12:20.721
Now, in 1911 we have the biggest tragedy[br]in the garment sector to date.

0:12:20.721,0:12:23.671
And that was the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire;

0:12:23.671,0:12:27.019
and that was[br]in New York's garment district.

0:12:27.019,0:12:32.329
146 people died in 18 minutes,[br]and this was the worst disaster

0:12:32.329,0:12:35.489
that we'd ever seen in this sector.

0:12:35.489,0:12:37.836
And that prompted,[br]not a revolution,

0:12:37.836,0:12:40.972
but a lot of picketing,[br]a big labour movement,

0:12:40.972,0:12:42.449
and it's still acknowledged.

0:12:42.449,0:12:45.922
Every year on the anniversary,

0:12:45.922,0:12:49.182
people will go and acknowledge,[br]the trade unions will acknowledge,

0:12:49.182,0:12:51.340
that that disaster happened.

0:12:51.340,0:12:54.178
And what really struck me was[br]that we never acknowledge.

0:12:54.178,0:12:58.407
There were lots and lots of factory deaths[br]and fire deaths and stampedes

0:12:58.407,0:13:02.047
in factories, lots of fatalities,[br]that were happening in the supply chain.

0:13:02.047,0:13:06.216
Probably one or two a month[br]that we learn about through our era,

0:13:06.216,0:13:08.259
and we never really said[br]anything about it.

0:13:08.259,0:13:12.616
But this number, we can't really[br]make it go away, and we can't ignore.

0:13:12.616,0:13:18.347
This is 1,133 -- which is the number[br]of people who died on the 24th April

0:13:18.347,0:13:21.367
at Rana Plaza.

0:13:21.367,0:13:24.708
Rana Plaza basically collapsed like[br]a house of cards.

0:13:24.708,0:13:28.385
There were 2,000 people working in it,[br]it was a mixed-use complex,

0:13:28.385,0:13:30.837
but, it was the garment workers that died,

0:13:30.837,0:13:34.323
because the garment workers were[br]the only workers that were sent back in,

0:13:34.323,0:13:43.083
and unfortunately that is a common story,[br]the garment workers are always in there.

0:13:43.083,0:13:46.437
These images are probably not unfamiliar,[br]because they were broadcast

0:13:46.437,0:13:50.117
around the world, and, for the first time,[br]we had news agencies

0:13:50.117,0:13:52.858
actually interviewing[br]these garment workers,

0:13:52.858,0:13:54.914
and actually getting their testimonies.

0:13:54.914,0:13:58.044
The difference was that[br]they were actually under rubble.

0:13:58.044,0:14:00.510
So, they're the statistics, well,[br]the bold statistics,

0:14:00.510,0:14:05.255
2,500 injured, 700 children left,

0:14:05.255,0:14:08.664
and the Rana Plaza battle[br]for compensation continues.

0:14:08.664,0:14:13.447
But it did make a stink. Who makes[br]our clothes? Where do they come from?

0:14:13.447,0:14:15.679
It's not the only thing[br]in the supply chain.

0:14:15.679,0:14:17.940
This is just about[br]Uzbekistan's cotton industry;

0:14:17.940,0:14:22.545
1.5 million children, who are alleged[br]to be involved in the harvest.

0:14:22.545,0:14:24.334
And this happens every year.

0:14:24.334,0:14:26.891
They're sent out into the fields[br]around September time,

0:14:26.891,0:14:32.940
and they will pick the harvest, which is[br]then sold in the international market.

0:14:32.940,0:14:35.742
And this is Gulnara,[br]this is the dictator's daughter,

0:14:35.742,0:14:38.294
and I put this in,[br]because this is her at fashion week

0:14:38.294,0:14:39.705
showing her own collection.

0:14:39.705,0:14:41.771
So, you see this terrible dichotomy,

0:14:41.771,0:14:47.104
of how we're hiding this kind[br]of slave labour in the fashion industry.

0:14:47.104,0:14:50.041
Can we do it better?[br]Yes, we can.

0:14:50.041,0:14:53.320
Now, I think[br]the whole sustainable style movement

0:14:53.320,0:14:57.444
has been slightly typified, and held back,[br]because people fear tie-dye.

0:14:57.444,0:14:59.403
They fear that we're going to have to wear

0:14:59.403,0:15:02.155
this kind of[br]knit-your-own tofu hat aesthetic,

0:15:02.155,0:15:04.179
and they're really, really not up for it.

0:15:04.179,0:15:06.707
So, what I did was get together[br]with some friends,

0:15:06.707,0:15:09.801
and we launched something,[br]we didn't call it granola chic,

0:15:09.801,0:15:12.725
we called it the Green Carpet Challenge.

0:15:12.725,0:15:15.654
Now, we're just trying[br]to play around with some ideas.

0:15:15.654,0:15:19.027
I love this. This is a photograph [br]by a seminal fashion photographer

0:15:19.027,0:15:20.524
called Lillian Bassman.

0:15:20.524,0:15:23.261
And she didn't mean anything[br]sustainable when she did it,

0:15:23.261,0:15:26.043
but I love the idea of[br]more fashion mileage per dress.

0:15:26.043,0:15:29.552
So, here's another figure I'd love you[br]to remember, which is 30.

0:15:29.552,0:15:32.838
Don't buy anything unless[br]you can guarantee to yourself

0:15:32.838,0:15:37.941
that you're going to wear it 30 times.[br]That's a really good marker.

0:15:37.941,0:15:39.922
So, we started the Green Carpet Challenge,

0:15:39.922,0:15:44.283
and we charged designers with[br]making us something sustainable.

0:15:44.283,0:15:46.498
This is an Armani dress.

0:15:46.498,0:15:51.319
And 40, that's the number of A-Listers[br]that we've sent down red carpets

0:15:51.319,0:15:53.805
from the Oscars, to the Globes,[br]to the whatever

0:15:53.805,0:15:55.667
all in these sustainable outfits.

0:15:55.667,0:15:58.685
We wanted to prove[br]to the fashion industry, to the editors,

0:15:58.685,0:16:00.859
to everybody watching,[br]that it could be done,

0:16:00.859,0:16:04.544
and it could be desirable.

0:16:04.544,0:16:08.428
There's more of them.

0:16:08.428,0:16:10.402
And we wanted to work[br]in the supply chain,

0:16:10.402,0:16:13.460
so, we started looking at things[br]like the leather chain.

0:16:13.460,0:16:16.455
11 billion pairs of shoes[br]are made every year.

0:16:16.455,0:16:19.439
60% of the leather goes to shoes.

0:16:19.439,0:16:22.327
Now, when you see a shoe[br]and it says made in Italy,

0:16:22.327,0:16:25.686
you think, 'OK, great.'[br]And then you ask the people in the shop,

0:16:25.686,0:16:27.785
and they say,[br]'Yeah, the leather's Italian.'

0:16:27.785,0:16:31.451
It can't be, because if it were, the whole[br]of Italy would be covered in cows.

0:16:31.451,0:16:34.126
There'd be cows round the Trevi Fountain,[br]it can't be.

0:16:34.126,0:16:36.724
No, they're often from Brazil or China,

0:16:36.724,0:16:40.095
and in Brazil,[br]deforestation is being driven

0:16:40.095,0:16:41.765
by the meat and leather industry.

0:16:41.765,0:16:44.809
So, we wanted to make a market[br]for clean leather.

0:16:44.809,0:16:48.885
Leather that we could prove[br]was zero deforestation.

0:16:48.885,0:16:51.490
So, we went to Gucci,[br]who came up with this little bag,

0:16:51.490,0:16:53.663
and I don't think[br]this looks sustainable at all.

0:16:53.663,0:16:56.361
It's not made of hemp,[br]it's not very granola,

0:16:56.361,0:16:58.438
it just looks like a bag.

0:17:00.099,0:17:04.709
100+ companies have now signed[br]the Bangladesh Fire Safety Accord.

0:17:04.709,0:17:07.886
Now, I'm not going to explain why,[br]because I'm running out of time,

0:17:07.886,0:17:10.594
but it is, I think,[br]a very, very important marker,

0:17:10.594,0:17:14.317
and I think, given time, it could make[br]a real, real difference.

0:17:14.317,0:17:16.883
What I would urge you to do[br]is keep an eye,

0:17:16.883,0:17:19.300
just keep abreast[br]of what's happening in fashion,

0:17:19.300,0:17:24.866
and where you buy and who signed what;[br]it's really, really important.

0:17:24.866,0:17:27.810
2p, add that onto a £6 T-shirt,

0:17:27.810,0:17:31.766
that would double the wages[br]of a garment worker in Bangladesh.

0:17:31.766,0:17:34.551
Now, I think that's a cost[br]that we can probably absorb.

0:17:34.551,0:17:37.430
24th April, that's the other date[br]I want you to remember.

0:17:37.430,0:17:40.992
24, remember that number,[br]it's the anniversary

0:17:40.992,0:17:45.210
of Rana Plaza,[br]and it's Fashion Revolution Day.

0:17:45.215,0:17:46.938
Thank you.

0:17:46.938,0:17:50.334
(Applause)