0:00:11.008,0:00:12.515 Good evening, Salford. 0:00:12.515,0:00:16.043 How thrilling to say that[br]and see my name so big up there. 0:00:16.043,0:00:19.573 I hope you've had a great day.[br]I'm actually going to talk to you 0:00:19.573,0:00:23.975 about fashion, and I've decided,[br]because you've taken in 0:00:23.975,0:00:27.117 so much information today[br]and there's such a broad spectrum 0:00:27.117,0:00:31.134 of opinion here, and you know all about[br]things like quantum physics 0:00:31.134,0:00:34.909 and tech, and stuff like that,[br]I'm not speaking to a normal crowd 0:00:34.909,0:00:39.305 of fashionistas -- I don't know,[br]maybe some of you are fashionistas -- 0:00:39.305,0:00:43.094 but I talk to you and[br]I do fashion by numbers. 0:00:43.094,0:00:47.166 I'm saying fashion by numbers,[br]not the numbers, 0:00:47.166,0:00:49.259 which I think[br]is more grammatically correct. 0:00:49.259,0:00:51.456 Now, I'm going to talk to you about[br]fashion by numbers, 0:00:51.456,0:00:56.358 because I love fashion[br]and I love style, 0:00:56.358,0:00:59.059 and I think there's lots[br]of really absorbing things 0:00:59.059,0:01:03.620 about the industry and about the idea[br]of expressing ourselves through clothes, 0:01:03.620,0:01:07.436 but there are also some issues,[br]which we will get to in a minute, 0:01:07.436,0:01:14.088 and I think some of the numbers are just[br]gigantic and they're quite illuminating. 0:01:14.088,0:01:18.911 So, the first statistic,[br]when I was doing a lot of research 0:01:18.911,0:01:23.805 on the contemporary fashion industry,[br]was one that I had to estimate 0:01:23.805,0:01:26.884 by putting together[br]lots of different research. 0:01:26.884,0:01:30.564 And I figured out that there are[br]about 80 billion new garments 0:01:30.564,0:01:32.727 that are created every year. 0:01:32.727,0:01:36.609 Some of you, like me, might feel that[br]most of those end up in your wardrobe, 0:01:36.609,0:01:39.140 it depends how avaricious[br]a buyer you are. 0:01:39.140,0:01:41.665 Some people might feel[br]that they all end up 0:01:41.665,0:01:43.962 in your laundry basket,[br]which I also feel, 0:01:43.962,0:01:45.582 having to do my family's laundry. 0:01:45.582,0:01:47.918 So, that's an estimated number[br]of new garments 0:01:47.918,0:01:49.897 produced worldwide every year. 0:01:49.897,0:01:53.368 Now the weird thing is[br]that we still end up 0:01:53.368,0:01:58.370 with 2 million tonnes of textiles,[br]mainly apparel, in landfill every year. 0:01:58.370,0:02:02.186 So, we're slinging them away[br]almost as quickly as we can buy them. 0:02:02.186,0:02:04.557 Which points to a certain disposability, 0:02:04.557,0:02:09.476 a certain throwaway culture,[br]in fashion. 0:02:09.476,0:02:14.943 19 is the number of jeans[br]that I found in my own wardrobe, 0:02:14.943,0:02:16.833 when I did an inventory of my wardrobe. 0:02:16.833,0:02:19.880 And I would recommend to anybody[br]that you do an inventory of your wardrobe, 0:02:19.880,0:02:22.285 because it's[br]really, really illuminating. 0:02:22.285,0:02:24.503 even if you think that[br]you're not a fashion addict, 0:02:24.503,0:02:26.079 you're not a fashion victim, 0:02:26.079,0:02:30.186 you will be surprised at[br]how many duplicates you have. 0:02:30.186,0:02:33.506 So, I have 19 pairs of jeans[br]and that's significant 0:02:33.506,0:02:35.948 because -- not because 19[br]is my lucky number, 0:02:35.948,0:02:37.837 but it is, that's not why I bought them -- 0:02:37.837,0:02:42.013 I didn't realize I had 19, because I[br]just kept consuming without realizing, 0:02:42.013,0:02:45.888 and when I thought about it,[br]the environmental footprint 0:02:45.888,0:02:48.263 of fashion is absolutely enormous. 0:02:48.263,0:02:53.292 So, for example, it takes between[br]11,000 and 20,000 litres of water 0:02:53.292,0:02:57.616 to produce enough cotton[br]for a single pair of jeans. 0:02:57.616,0:03:01.221 And then I started to look at[br]the impact of fashion generally. 0:03:01.221,0:03:04.026 Now, fashion is a full spectrum industry, 0:03:04.026,0:03:05.907 and with the exception[br]of the food industry, 0:03:05.907,0:03:11.071 and perhaps the energy industry,[br]it's hard to think of any other sector 0:03:11.071,0:03:15.698 that owes quite as much[br]to the planet as fashion does. 0:03:17.013,0:03:20.082 We're all a nation of fashion addicts,[br]that's how we've become, 0:03:20.082,0:03:22.682 and that's been enabled really[br]over the last twenty years 0:03:22.682,0:03:25.606 by a phenomenon known as fast fashion. 0:03:25.606,0:03:28.771 Now, sometimes,[br]it's quite difficult to imagine 0:03:28.771,0:03:31.956 how people got dressed 20 years ago, 0:03:31.956,0:03:35.460 before fast fashion really kicked in,[br]but we know they did, 0:03:35.460,0:03:38.771 but did they all just wear[br]the same pair of Dralon flares? 0:03:38.771,0:03:40.311 How did they actually manage it? 0:03:40.311,0:03:43.524 Because what we've done is[br]we've developed a whole new system 0:03:43.524,0:03:46.228 of getting dressed,[br]which revolves around 0:03:46.228,0:03:51.889 very, very quick microtrends[br]that can very quickly translate 0:03:51.889,0:03:55.979 from the catwalk into our wardrobes[br]and onto the high street. 0:03:55.979,0:03:59.021 And the UK is[br]one of the world leaders in this trend. 0:03:59.021,0:04:02.231 We have some of the biggest retailers,[br]some of the biggest brands, 0:04:02.231,0:04:05.362 and it has to be said,[br]that we interpret fast fashion 0:04:05.362,0:04:07.461 quite successfully. 0:04:11.182,0:04:14.465 So, we think about how fashion[br]actually presents itself. 0:04:14.465,0:04:16.625 What it doesn't really do, is tell you 0:04:16.625,0:04:19.322 how much it's changed[br]over the last 20 years. 0:04:19.322,0:04:22.444 So, there will be people here[br]who've never known anything else. 0:04:22.444,0:04:24.720 Lucky them, because[br]they're nice and young, 0:04:24.720,0:04:30.099 but, there has been[br]a completely revolutionized system 0:04:30.099,0:04:35.428 to the way apparel[br]is produced and sold. 0:04:35.428,0:04:39.354 But we really don't get this idea[br]from the fashion weeks that we have. 0:04:39.354,0:04:43.212 It presents a very traditional face.[br]So, we have the two seasons, 0:04:43.212,0:04:46.261 we have autumn/winter[br]and spring/summer, 0:04:46.261,0:04:51.711 and then these are when we trickle[br]things down from the catwalk into store, 0:04:51.711,0:04:54.510 and they set the trend[br]of what we're going to be wearing. 0:04:54.510,0:04:58.179 In actual fact, those seasons[br]have got as much in common 0:04:58.179,0:05:00.538 with the contemporary fashion industry 0:05:00.538,0:05:04.947 as Gregorian plainsong has with the[br]contemporary music industry. 0:05:04.947,0:05:07.220 Absolutely nothing to do with it. 0:05:07.220,0:05:09.820 What really happens[br]is that we're now looking at, 0:05:09.820,0:05:15.539 rather than two or four seasons a year,[br]we're really looking at 52 seasons a year. 0:05:15.539,0:05:19.525 Every week there are new styles,[br]there is new stock in shops, 0:05:19.525,0:05:23.877 new stock online, and it's become[br]a very, very quick process. 0:05:23.877,0:05:26.137 Some people would call it a churn. 0:05:26.137,0:05:30.026 Now, when I look at the bright young hopes[br]of British fashion, 0:05:30.026,0:05:32.684 and we see these brilliant designers[br]have got something. 0:05:32.684,0:05:36.122 Up here we've got Alice Temperley,[br]we've got Jonathan Saunders, 0:05:36.122,0:05:38.155 Roksanda Ilincic. 0:05:38.155,0:05:41.045 So, these are great names,[br]great hopes for the future. 0:05:41.045,0:05:43.064 And then we hear about the people 0:05:43.064,0:05:46.624 who basically succeed[br]to the big luxury conglomerates 0:05:46.624,0:05:48.361 and take over those brands. 0:05:48.361,0:05:50.744 And these are big, big names,[br]going out there 0:05:50.744,0:05:53.077 into this multi-billion pound sector 0:05:53.077,0:05:56.237 and representing British style.[br]But often I think, 0:05:56.237,0:05:59.803 'Will they be OK?'[br]Because, actually, it's not just 0:05:59.803,0:06:03.416 fast fashion or high street fashion[br]that's become super fast, 0:06:03.416,0:06:06.694 but also the luxury industry. 0:06:08.367,0:06:10.612 This is the way[br]that we really, really shop; 0:06:10.612,0:06:14.964 we shop in a mob, we shop in bulk[br]and we buy very cheap. 0:06:14.964,0:06:17.079 Now, one of the things[br]I really like to do 0:06:17.079,0:06:20.410 is to hang around outside shops,[br]maybe not as crowded as this, 0:06:20.410,0:06:23.606 and actually go through people's bags,[br]with their consent, 0:06:23.606,0:06:27.785 as they come out -- I do ask first --[br]and it's amazing 0:06:27.785,0:06:32.002 how many people buy in bulk[br]and buy duplicates these days. 0:06:32.002,0:06:34.438 And one of my favourite observations, 0:06:34.438,0:06:37.206 although it does not say[br]particularly good things, 0:06:37.206,0:06:41.814 is that a colleague of mine was watching[br]outside Primark one day, 0:06:41.814,0:06:43.911 or just kind of loitering nearby, 0:06:43.911,0:06:46.946 and a girl came out[br]with four of these bags. 0:06:46.946,0:06:49.746 Now, it could have happened[br]in lots of different stores, 0:06:49.746,0:06:52.318 but Primark use these paper bags,[br]and it was raining, 0:06:52.318,0:06:55.374 it was really, really raining,[br]the bag got completely soaked, 0:06:55.374,0:06:58.725 while she was waiting for a bus,[br]or whatever, and it fell apart. 0:06:58.725,0:07:01.827 And she just left these clothes,[br]these brand new clothes, 0:07:01.827,0:07:04.704 she just left them on the pavement[br]and walked off. 0:07:04.704,0:07:09.287 Now, my contention is that if we produce,[br]if we design for landfill, 0:07:09.287,0:07:12.751 if we produce clothes that are[br]effectively disposable, 0:07:12.751,0:07:16.056 we will all start to treat them[br]like litter. 0:07:16.056,0:07:18.909 Now, I'm not saying that this also[br]happens for luxury goods, 0:07:18.909,0:07:21.556 because I think if you're spending[br]a grand on a handbag, 0:07:21.556,0:07:24.012 you're probably going to be[br]a little bit more careful, 0:07:24.012,0:07:26.019 but the same cycle and the same churn 0:07:26.019,0:07:29.145 is starting to happen[br]throughout the fashion landscape. 0:07:29.145,0:07:32.549 So, effectively,[br]these designers that we saw, 0:07:32.549,0:07:36.343 those shiny-faced, hopeful, big prospects[br]of British fashion 0:07:36.343,0:07:40.730 and all round the world in fact,[br]actually are in a similar churn. 0:07:40.730,0:07:43.758 So, they're not just doing [br]the autumn/winter, the spring/summer, 0:07:43.758,0:07:47.715 they're also having to work[br]on pre-fall/fall collections, 0:07:47.715,0:07:50.156 resort-wear, yacht-wear, 0:07:50.156,0:07:53.520 getting on a yacht, getting off a yacht,[br]post-yacht, pre-yacht, 0:07:53.520,0:07:56.386 who are all these people[br]that they are designing for? 0:07:56.386,0:07:58.448 Who has all these yachts? 0:07:58.448,0:07:59.860 (Laughter) 0:07:59.860,0:08:04.568 So, let's just unravel fast fashion[br]just a little bit. 0:08:04.568,0:08:07.716 So, there are some very good points[br]about fast fashion by the way. 0:08:07.716,0:08:12.664 First of all, it breeds life into[br]a rather stagnant British high street. 0:08:12.664,0:08:15.044 Those of you who are[br]old enough to remember 0:08:15.044,0:08:17.366 will remember there was[br]a certain lack of choice, 0:08:17.366,0:08:21.012 a certain sort of look[br]that the high street had, 0:08:21.012,0:08:25.902 maybe 20-25 years ago, which wasn't[br]that appealing, wasn't that aspirational. 0:08:25.902,0:08:29.192 So, the high street brands[br]have really democratized style, 0:08:29.192,0:08:31.020 you're able to get hold of it. 0:08:31.020,0:08:34.767 I remember moving to London[br]and coming back to the North West, 0:08:34.767,0:08:38.503 and people used to come up to me and say,[br]'Oh, did you get that in London?' 0:08:38.503,0:08:41.219 I mean that doesn't happen now,[br]it happens in the reverse. 0:08:41.219,0:08:44.413 You know, that's how democratize[br]style has become. 0:08:44.413,0:08:47.479 So, 814 million garments a year, 0:08:47.479,0:08:52.736 this is also an estimate, are produced[br]by Zara/Inditex, the Spanish brand. 0:08:52.736,0:08:54.188 That's a lot of clothes. 0:08:54.188,0:08:57.738 And they have 45,000 designs,[br]so their designers 0:08:57.738,0:09:00.652 are constantly coming up with trends,[br]every single year. 0:09:00.652,0:09:04.193 Not all of those will get into store,[br]but a large proportion of them will, 0:09:04.193,0:09:08.720 which shows you where this engine[br]is coming from, all these micro-trends. 0:09:08.720,0:09:11.528 When Zara started in the UK,[br]nobody understood it, 0:09:11.528,0:09:14.523 because you'd go in there,[br]and the consumer would say, 0:09:14.523,0:09:17.206 'Well, this is nice,[br]maybe a little bit expensive.' 0:09:17.206,0:09:20.376 And then they'll say,[br]'I'll think about it, I'll come back.' 0:09:20.376,0:09:22.945 They'll come back[br]and it wouldn't be there, 0:09:22.945,0:09:25.969 because shops these days don't re-stock,[br]they don't need to, 0:09:25.969,0:09:28.143 because they've moved[br]on to the next trend. 0:09:28.143,0:09:31.314 If you blink, you miss it. 0:09:31.314,0:09:34.795 Number 3 -- I'm still doing[br]the fashion in numbers thing. 0:09:34.795,0:09:38.491 This is the position of Amancio Ortega[br]who owns Zara, 0:09:38.491,0:09:43.073 on the international rich list.[br]He's the 3rd richest man in the world. 0:09:43.073,0:09:46.676 There's a lot of money[br]in this fast fashion business. 0:09:46.676,0:09:50.353 Here's Philip Green, maybe this is where[br]all the resort yacht wear is going to, 0:09:50.353,0:09:52.725 because he has a yacht. 0:09:52.725,0:09:56.796 And this is the little picture[br]of a village, somewhere in England, 0:09:56.796,0:10:00.238 a whole village, that has been bought[br]by Stefan Persson, 0:10:00.238,0:10:02.923 who is the CEO of H&M. 0:10:02.923,0:10:06.594 So, that gives you some idea of the riches[br]that we're talking about. 0:10:06.594,0:10:11.163 I mention that, not because it's illegal[br]to make money, because it's not, 0:10:11.163,0:10:13.549 but just to show you[br]a little bit of disparity, 0:10:13.549,0:10:19.631 because who is the real engine[br]of this fashion churn, this fashion cycle? 0:10:19.631,0:10:23.420 It happens in Bangladesh. 0:10:23.420,0:10:28.008 It happens in other countries too,[br]but Bangladesh, 80% of the GDP 0:10:28.008,0:10:30.889 is constituted by[br]the ready-made garment industry, 0:10:30.889,0:10:33.656 and that's the equivalent of $20 billion. 0:10:33.656,0:10:35.552 So, when we talk[br]about problems there, 0:10:35.552,0:10:40.086 it is not feasible for companies to cut[br]and run, because, as you can see, 0:10:40.086,0:10:44.099 that economy is dependent on this trade. 0:10:44.099,0:10:48.681 Now, I put this in, because there was[br]a recent power list of fashion, 0:10:48.681,0:10:53.607 and I counted 4 muses in the top 30. 0:10:53.607,0:10:56.578 Now, I'm not really sure[br]what a muse does, 0:10:56.578,0:10:59.552 but there were four muses and there was[br]no mention of the people 0:10:59.552,0:11:01.397 that actually make the clothes, 0:11:01.397,0:11:03.389 which I thought was[br]really, really interesting, 0:11:03.389,0:11:07.554 and I think this really shines a light[br]on a problem in the whole industry. 0:11:07.554,0:11:12.024 So, there's 101 processes[br]to making a garment. 0:11:12.024,0:11:17.314 Just 6 to 8 of those are done[br]in factories like the ones in Bangladesh. 0:11:17.314,0:11:24.244 And these are basically[br]what the cut, make and trim army do. 0:11:24.244,0:11:29.418 And by conservative estimate,[br]there's 3 million, mainly young women, 0:11:29.418,0:11:31.664 who work in this cut, make and trim army, 0:11:31.664,0:11:34.880 and these are the core part[br]of the supply chain, 0:11:34.880,0:11:40.595 when they're actually[br]putting the piece together. 0:11:40.595,0:11:44.455 These are vast factories,[br]vast, vast production lines. 0:11:44.455,0:11:50.053 Now, 48.5 seconds is the time[br]that it's estimated it should take 0:11:50.053,0:11:55.699 one of the people on this production stage[br]to actually sew a seam. 0:11:55.699,0:11:59.064 It's relentless, relentless work.[br]This is a quote from Ali Hewson, 0:11:59.064,0:12:02.796 who set up the EDUN brand,[br]'We carry the story of the people 0:12:02.796,0:12:05.165 who make our clothes around with us.' 0:12:05.165,0:12:07.172 And we do,[br]but we don't acknowledge it, 0:12:07.172,0:12:09.349 which is why I showed[br]that picture of the muse 0:12:09.349,0:12:10.916 and I point to that power list. 0:12:10.916,0:12:15.578 These are the unseen, the hidden people[br]in the supply chain. 0:12:15.985,0:12:19.572 5,600 -- that's the number[br]of garment factories 0:12:19.572,0:12:23.361 that Bangladesh has,[br]mainly centred around Dhaka. 0:12:23.361,0:12:26.051 At last count,[br]when this report came out, 0:12:26.051,0:12:28.534 there were less than 200 inspectors -- 0:12:28.534,0:12:32.326 I think that should be fewer,[br]but I'm just being pedantic. 0:12:32.326,0:12:38.252 Now, in 1911 we have the biggest tragedy[br]in the garment sector to date. 0:12:38.252,0:12:41.202 And that was the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire; 0:12:41.202,0:12:44.550 and that was[br]in New York's garment district. 0:12:44.550,0:12:49.860 146 people died in 18 minutes,[br]and this was the worst disaster 0:12:49.860,0:12:53.020 that we'd ever seen in this sector. 0:12:53.020,0:12:55.367 And that prompted,[br]not a revolution, 0:12:55.367,0:12:58.503 but a lot of picketing,[br]a big labour movement, 0:12:58.503,0:12:59.980 and it's still acknowledged. 0:12:59.980,0:13:03.453 Every year on the anniversary, 0:13:03.453,0:13:06.713 people will go and acknowledge,[br]the trade unions will acknowledge, 0:13:06.713,0:13:08.871 that that disaster happened. 0:13:08.871,0:13:11.709 And what really struck me was[br]that we never acknowledge. 0:13:11.709,0:13:15.938 There were lots and lots of factory deaths[br]and fire deaths and stampedes 0:13:15.938,0:13:19.578 in factories, lots of fatalities,[br]that were happening in the supply chain. 0:13:19.578,0:13:23.747 Probably one or two a month[br]that we learn about through our era, 0:13:23.747,0:13:25.790 and we never really said[br]anything about it. 0:13:25.790,0:13:30.147 But this number, we can't really[br]make it go away, and we can't ignore. 0:13:30.147,0:13:35.878 This is 1,133 -- which is the number[br]of people who died on the 24th April 0:13:35.878,0:13:38.898 at Rana Plaza. 0:13:38.898,0:13:42.239 Rana Plaza basically collapsed like[br]a house of cards. 0:13:42.239,0:13:45.916 There were 2,000 people working in it,[br]it was a mixed-use complex, 0:13:45.916,0:13:48.368 but, it was the garment workers that died, 0:13:48.368,0:13:51.854 because the garment workers were[br]the only workers that were sent back in, 0:13:51.854,0:14:00.614 and unfortunately that is a common story,[br]the garment workers are always in there. 0:14:00.614,0:14:03.968 These images are probably not unfamiliar,[br]because they were broadcast 0:14:03.968,0:14:07.648 around the world, and, for the first time,[br]we had news agencies 0:14:07.648,0:14:10.389 actually interviewing[br]these garment workers, 0:14:10.389,0:14:12.445 and actually getting their testimonies. 0:14:12.445,0:14:15.575 The difference was that[br]they were actually under rubble. 0:14:15.575,0:14:18.041 So, they're the statistics, well,[br]the bold statistics, 0:14:18.041,0:14:22.786 2,500 injured, 700 children left, 0:14:22.786,0:14:26.195 and the Rana Plaza battle[br]for compensation continues. 0:14:26.195,0:14:30.978 But it did make a stink. Who makes[br]our clothes? Where do they come from? 0:14:30.978,0:14:33.210 It's not the only thing[br]in the supply chain. 0:14:33.210,0:14:35.471 This is just about[br]Uzbekistan's cotton industry; 0:14:35.471,0:14:40.076 1.5 million children, who are alleged[br]to be involved in the harvest. 0:14:40.076,0:14:41.865 And this happens every year. 0:14:41.865,0:14:44.422 They're sent out into the fields[br]around September time, 0:14:44.422,0:14:50.471 and they will pick the harvest, which is[br]then sold in the international market. 0:14:50.471,0:14:53.273 And this is Gulnara,[br]this is the dictator's daughter, 0:14:53.273,0:14:55.825 and I put this in,[br]because this is her at fashion week 0:14:55.825,0:14:57.236 showing her own collection. 0:14:57.236,0:14:59.302 So, you see this terrible dichotomy, 0:14:59.302,0:15:04.635 of how we're hiding this kind[br]of slave labour in the fashion industry. 0:15:04.635,0:15:07.572 Can we do it better?[br]Yes, we can. 0:15:07.572,0:15:10.851 Now, I think[br]the whole sustainable style movement 0:15:10.851,0:15:14.975 has been slightly typified, and held back,[br]because people fear tie-dye. 0:15:14.975,0:15:16.934 They fear that we're going to have to wear 0:15:16.934,0:15:19.686 this kind of[br]knit-your-own tofu hat aesthetic, 0:15:19.686,0:15:21.710 and they're really, really not up for it. 0:15:21.710,0:15:24.238 So, what I did was get together[br]with some friends, 0:15:24.238,0:15:27.332 and we launched something,[br]we didn't call it granola chic, 0:15:27.332,0:15:30.256 we called it the Green Carpet Challenge. 0:15:30.256,0:15:33.185 Now, we're just trying[br]to play around with some ideas. 0:15:33.185,0:15:36.558 I love this. This is a photograph [br]by a seminal fashion photographer 0:15:36.558,0:15:38.055 called Lillian Bassman. 0:15:38.055,0:15:40.792 And she didn't mean anything[br]sustainable when she did it, 0:15:40.792,0:15:43.574 but I love the idea of[br]more fashion mileage per dress. 0:15:43.574,0:15:47.083 So, here's another figure I'd love you[br]to remember, which is 30. 0:15:47.083,0:15:50.369 Don't buy anything unless[br]you can guarantee to yourself 0:15:50.369,0:15:55.472 that you're going to wear it 30 times.[br]That's a really good marker. 0:15:55.472,0:15:57.453 So, we started the Green Carpet Challenge, 0:15:57.453,0:16:01.814 and we charged designers with[br]making us something sustainable. 0:16:01.814,0:16:04.029 This is an Armani dress. 0:16:04.029,0:16:08.850 And 40, that's the number of A-Listers[br]that we've sent down red carpets 0:16:08.850,0:16:11.336 from the Oscars, to the Globes,[br]to the whatever 0:16:11.336,0:16:13.198 all in these sustainable outfits. 0:16:13.198,0:16:16.216 We wanted to prove[br]to the fashion industry, to the editors, 0:16:16.216,0:16:18.390 to everybody watching,[br]that it could be done, 0:16:18.390,0:16:22.075 and it could be desirable. 0:16:22.075,0:16:25.959 There's more of them. 0:16:25.959,0:16:27.933 And we wanted to work[br]in the supply chain, 0:16:27.933,0:16:30.991 so, we started looking at things[br]like the leather chain. 0:16:30.991,0:16:33.986 11 billion pairs of shoes[br]are made every year. 0:16:33.986,0:16:36.970 60% of the leather goes to shoes. 0:16:36.970,0:16:39.858 Now, when you see a shoe[br]and it says made in Italy, 0:16:39.858,0:16:43.217 you think, 'OK, great.'[br]And then you ask the people in the shop, 0:16:43.217,0:16:45.316 and they say,[br]'Yeah, the leather's Italian.' 0:16:45.316,0:16:48.982 It can't be, because if it were, the whole[br]of Italy would be covered in cows. 0:16:48.982,0:16:51.657 There'd be cows round the Trevi Fountain,[br]it can't be. 0:16:51.657,0:16:54.255 No, they're often from Brazil or China, 0:16:54.255,0:16:57.626 and in Brazil,[br]deforestation is being driven 0:16:57.626,0:16:59.296 by the meat and leather industry. 0:16:59.296,0:17:02.340 So, we wanted to make a market[br]for clean leather. 0:17:02.340,0:17:06.416 Leather that we could prove[br]was zero deforestation. 0:17:06.416,0:17:09.021 So, we went to Gucci,[br]who came up with this little bag, 0:17:09.021,0:17:11.194 and I don't think[br]this looks sustainable at all. 0:17:11.194,0:17:13.892 It's not made of hemp,[br]it's not very granola, 0:17:13.892,0:17:15.969 it just looks like a bag. 0:17:17.630,0:17:22.240 100+ companies have now signed[br]the Bangladesh Fire Safety Accord. 0:17:22.240,0:17:25.417 Now, I'm not going to explain why,[br]because I'm running out of time, 0:17:25.417,0:17:28.125 but it is, I think,[br]a very, very important marker, 0:17:28.125,0:17:31.848 and I think, given time, it could make[br]a real, real difference. 0:17:31.848,0:17:34.414 What I would urge you to do[br]is keep an eye, 0:17:34.414,0:17:36.832 just keep abreast[br]of what's happening in fashion, 0:17:36.832,0:17:42.397 and where you buy and who signed what;[br]it's really, really important. 0:17:42.397,0:17:45.342 2p, add that onto a £6 T-shirt, 0:17:45.342,0:17:49.297 that would double the wages[br]of a garment worker in Bangladesh. 0:17:49.297,0:17:52.082 Now, I think that's a cost[br]that we can probably absorb. 0:17:52.082,0:17:54.961 24th April, that's the other date[br]I want you to remember. 0:17:54.961,0:17:58.523 24, remember that number,[br]it's the anniversary 0:17:58.523,0:18:02.741 of Rana Plaza,[br]and it's Fashion Revolution Day. 0:18:02.746,0:18:04.469 Thank you. 0:18:04.469,0:18:07.865 (Applause)