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Today is Saturday,[br]market day,

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and Demetrio is taking us to the nearby town of Tlacolula

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near Oaxaca for breakfast[br]and shopping.

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Tlacolula boasts one of the[br]largest markets in the area.

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It stretches onward block after[br]block, indoors and outdoors,

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with vendors selling everything[br]from farm tools

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to fresh produce.

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People come from as far away as

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the mountain villages[br]to participate.

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In this place,

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one will find many different[br]indigenous people wearing

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their traditional costumes[br]and speaking in dialects

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far removed from the universal[br]Spanish language.

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Huge sections of this cavernous[br]place are devoted

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to just one food item,

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as is the case here[br]in the bread market.

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Every conceivable type of[br]crusty, flaky,

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sweet and savory concoction is[br]available to complement a meal,

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from sweet breakfast breads[br]to crispy rolls stuffed

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with chorizo sausage.

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I was ready to dive in[br]right away to consume

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some of these tasty bits,

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but Demetrio had[br]other ideas.

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Let's try the empanadas,[br]which is really great.

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What's inside?

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The empanadas.

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The empanadas what they have,[br]it's yellow mole and tortilla,

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and also has kind of like a mint[br]leaf, what we call yerba santa.

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It's actually delicious.

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I think we should get[br]some like right now, okay?

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I'm starting.

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It sounds salivating.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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So let's go walk this[br]aisle and we're going to...

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Demetrio has his favorite[br]places to eat in the market,

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and his friend's empanada stall[br]proved to be exceptional.

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The owner quickly assembled this[br]traditional street fare for

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myself and the crew,

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undistracted from her duties even by Demetrio's humor.

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Cups filled with fresh squeezed[br]orange juice were ordered up

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from a nearby stall to[br]accompany our breakfast.

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In Oaxaca, large tortillas[br]are known as blandas,

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and the traditional queso,[br]or string cheese,

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melts like mozzarella.

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Demetrio, who is a regular here,

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demanded a quick adjustment[br]on his empanada,

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with the addition of[br]some yellow mole,

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and made sure that everyone[br]else received the same.

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As we gobbled up our breakfast,

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we discussed some of the other foods available in the market.

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I have a lot of friends here.

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I noticed.

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The people...

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Everybody says hello to you.

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We chatted away as we wandered[br]past a group of Indian women

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selling tortillas filled[br]with grilled meat and ramps,

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a type of green onion.

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They love the fat.

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Do they?

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You know what's the fat for?

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They just kind of like put[br]it like a butter

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into the tortillas.

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Oh yeah?

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And then they put the meat[br]plus the chilies and avocado,

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and it's a really good taco.

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I bet it is good.

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Is the fat beef fat or pork?

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Yeah, it's beef.

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It's beef.

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I was excited to try more food,

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so Demetrio led us to[br]his other favorite spot,

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the barbacoa stall.

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So we're very close to the[br]section of the barbacoa.

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So here you can tell[br]that they have it

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into those big pots and...

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Oh right here, this[br]is a really good one.

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Oh great.

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So this comes straight[br]in from the...

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Straight from the pit to here.

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So they say if you would[br]like to try, try it.

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See?

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They have this with this covered[br]with salsa and the one

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that it's just white.

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So see?

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It's vlanca?

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Vlanca?

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Uh huh.

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The carnedo?

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It's an .

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Oh this is lamb,[br]and the other one is goat.

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Muy bien.

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[speaking foreign language]

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Chocolate?

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Chocolate [speaking[br]in foreign language]

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This is good.

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So good.

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That is delicious.

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We came from so far away.

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We have to try some.

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Legend has it that this cooking[br]method was developed by the

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Chichimeca people[br]from northern Mexico.

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It's a method of slow[br]cooking done underground.

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So tender it falls off the bone,[br]barbacoa is scented with smoke,

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seasonings, and other flavors.

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Look.

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This is how this one works.

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You take the salsa and[br]you cover it like this.

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See look.

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It's hard to catch it.

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Look.

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Yeah.

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Oh man.

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I don't think I'm going to go[br]back to the States for a while.

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As we pass the[br]equipment vendors,

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I decided to try my hand at[br]grinding corn on a metate.

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These basalt stone tables were[br]designed by the ancient people

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to grind the dry[br]ingredients for their food.

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The owner was happy[br]to allow a gringo

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to make a fool of himself,

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so I selected a table[br]and got started.

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I struggled with my technique,[br]amusing everyone around me.

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Her husband, watching[br]the scene from behind,

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was moved to remind me that this[br]is considered women's work in

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this country and demonstrated[br]the fact by

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forcing me to dress the part.

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Sheesh.

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I just can't get a break.

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Anybody else want to try that?

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Finally, Demetrio introduced[br]us to a pulque vendor.

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Pulque is an ancient brew made[br]from the sap of

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the maguey plant,

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which is also used to[br]produce mezcal.

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This is, it's called aguamiel,[br]or it's known as a pulque,

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but also they make[br]a tepache with it,

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but they blend it[br]with brown sugar,

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which they known as

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[speaking in foreign language]

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Tepache.

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Tepache, but they[br]put panela in it.

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It's a sugar.

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It's a brown sugar.

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So try this.

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So this is directly[br]from the agave.

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That's the juice of the agave.

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[speaking in[br]foreign language]

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It's good.

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It's a little tart, but[br]it has a sweetness too.

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Yeah.

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And this, this is now fermented[br]with the brown sugar.

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Oh, okay.

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See?

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The color is different.

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[speaking in foreign[br]language]

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And this is the pulque now.

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So tepache is nonalcoholic.

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No.

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And the pulque has alcohol.

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No, no, no, no, no, no, no.

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Oh.

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Either of them, either[br]of them, either...

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They're not alcoholic.

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I mean, they have so much[br]sugar, natural sugar,

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that if you drink a lot of[br]it, then it will make you...

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Crazy.

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...crazy, because of the sugar.

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But it's not alcohol.

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Cheers

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Salute