[Music] so imagine that i am playing with the tube style device. The higher my brake hand goes, the lower mechanical advantage it gives. So here is the question, if i would have my brake hand right here, and my climber would take a fall at this moment, will i have enough reaction to bring my hand down or my hand will simply just get sucked into the device? and maybe i will get hurt and let go this hand and sad story. Ready, so to make this experiment a little bit safer, I started with my break hand a little bit above the belaying device go whoa ow i got my hand pinched in the device [Music] probably somebody's already typing in the comments, "oh you should never keep your hand here". Good if you have that feeling, then my job so far is going well so let's continue. - Ready? yep well now I had like a reaction to go down because I was scared I was anticipating it and I went like The main reason for this demonstration is that I see mistakes both in beginners and advanced climbers. Beginners, sometimes do this, where they take the slack very slowly as the climber is moving and then they lower the hand and do their favorite transition, and then they take the slack slowly again and rise the hand way too high don't do this! go! whoa yeah now I kind of learned the instinct I guess it boils down to how quick you are exactly my first was probably the most realistic where I was not like quick as what's the quick animal? you know a quick animal? cheetah - yeah so if i don't have a reflexes of cheetah, the hand just goes into the blank device. m Maybe also the glove provides better grip on the rope okay that's for you if Ii get hurt, please send me some donations! so now I'm gonna hold it really up, man this is scary! While experienced belayers sometimes do this. If they see the climber falling and they decide that they want to take some of the slack out and they do this quickly. If they would miss time and their hand would go up in the moment where the climber would load the rope they might not have enough time to bring the hand down and the reason why i'm saying this, because i know a person who was dropped down with this device. It's a click up it's assisted device meaning it locks however, if you have your brake hand up here it doesn't lock. The person who I met told me a story how his belayer tried to take out the slack really quickly during the fall but he fell all the way to the ground. So i'm gonna talk about belaying devices later but you must know that even some of assisted belaying devices do not protect from this. Man this is scary don't do this ever Venga! (spanish for go!) [Music] [Music] just because I know that he's about to fall and i'm kind of ready to lower my hand so I'm not saying that taking out the slack during the fall is a big no, i'm just telling you what are the risks and if you want to do this be a cheetah, and if you're not a cheetah maybe use assisted belaying device which doesn't have this risk let's do one more i'm getting known already for being a bit crazy so one more of what not to do go man this is scary - yeah so it ended up here and I was holding here so it's not that much slippage but again just because I know also probably somebody is gonna comment that your hand shouldn't ever go up it should go forward and down but I guess if you're trying to take a slack really quickly doing forward and down might be not as quick and comfortable as something like this so in the end my goal is not to tell you what to do just to demonstrate what are the potential risks if you are not the cheetah or you are not aware that these things can happen like in the story with more life-saving tips here and here is a very in-depth course on climbing equipment and safe belaying and if you have seen all of it already good news I'm already working on new episodes for it oh and this episode is brought to you by you, people who are supporting my channel by visiting my website and knowing how to do that thank you enjoy climbing