1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:00,240 [Music] 2 00:00:00,240 --> 00:00:03,120 so imagine that i am playing with the 3 00:00:03,120 --> 00:00:05,600 tube style device. The higher my brake 4 00:00:05,600 --> 00:00:08,720 hand goes, the lower mechanical advantage 5 00:00:08,720 --> 00:00:11,200 it gives. So here is the question, if i 6 00:00:11,200 --> 00:00:13,759 would have my brake hand right here, and 7 00:00:13,759 --> 00:00:15,599 my climber would take a fall at this 8 00:00:15,599 --> 00:00:17,920 moment, will i have enough reaction to 9 00:00:17,920 --> 00:00:20,800 bring my hand down or my hand will 10 00:00:20,800 --> 00:00:23,600 simply just get sucked into the device? 11 00:00:23,600 --> 00:00:25,519 and maybe i will get hurt and let go 12 00:00:25,519 --> 00:00:27,519 this hand and 13 00:00:27,519 --> 00:00:29,920 sad story. Ready, so to make this 14 00:00:29,920 --> 00:00:32,160 experiment a little bit safer, I started 15 00:00:32,160 --> 00:00:34,719 with my break hand a little bit above 16 00:00:34,719 --> 00:00:38,559 the belaying device go 17 00:00:39,760 --> 00:00:40,800 whoa 18 00:00:40,800 --> 00:00:42,160 ow 19 00:00:42,160 --> 00:00:46,570 i got my hand pinched in the device 20 00:00:46,570 --> 00:00:57,750 [Music] 21 00:00:58,960 --> 00:01:00,719 probably somebody's already typing in 22 00:01:00,719 --> 00:01:02,719 the comments, "oh you should never 23 00:01:02,719 --> 00:01:05,199 keep your hand here". Good if you have 24 00:01:05,199 --> 00:01:07,920 that feeling, then my job so far is going 25 00:01:07,920 --> 00:01:10,880 well so let's continue. - Ready? 26 00:01:10,880 --> 00:01:13,840 yep 27 00:01:13,840 --> 00:01:16,320 well now I had like a reaction to go 28 00:01:16,320 --> 00:01:19,280 down because I was scared 29 00:01:19,280 --> 00:01:21,840 I was anticipating it and I went like 30 00:01:21,840 --> 00:01:24,080 The main reason for this demonstration 31 00:01:24,080 --> 00:01:26,880 is that I see mistakes both in beginners 32 00:01:26,880 --> 00:01:29,200 and advanced climbers. Beginners, 33 00:01:29,200 --> 00:01:32,320 sometimes do this, where they take the 34 00:01:32,320 --> 00:01:33,439 slack 35 00:01:33,439 --> 00:01:37,680 very slowly as the climber is moving and 36 00:01:37,680 --> 00:01:40,000 then they lower the hand and do their 37 00:01:40,000 --> 00:01:42,640 favorite transition, and then they take 38 00:01:42,640 --> 00:01:46,479 the slack slowly again and rise the hand 39 00:01:46,479 --> 00:01:48,560 way too high 40 00:01:48,560 --> 00:01:50,159 don't do this! 41 00:01:50,159 --> 00:01:51,759 go! 42 00:01:51,759 --> 00:01:53,119 whoa 43 00:01:53,119 --> 00:01:55,280 yeah now I kind of learned the instinct 44 00:01:55,280 --> 00:01:58,159 I guess it boils down to how quick you 45 00:01:58,159 --> 00:02:01,200 are exactly my first was probably the 46 00:02:01,200 --> 00:02:03,040 most realistic where I was not like 47 00:02:03,040 --> 00:02:04,159 quick as 48 00:02:04,159 --> 00:02:06,079 what's the quick animal? you know a quick 49 00:02:06,079 --> 00:02:07,439 animal? 50 00:02:07,439 --> 00:02:09,360 cheetah - yeah so if i don't have a 51 00:02:09,360 --> 00:02:11,920 reflexes of cheetah, the hand just goes 52 00:02:11,920 --> 00:02:14,319 into the blank device. m Maybe also the 53 00:02:14,319 --> 00:02:17,599 glove provides better grip on the rope 54 00:02:17,599 --> 00:02:19,920 okay 55 00:02:19,920 --> 00:02:22,400 that's 56 00:02:22,400 --> 00:02:24,800 for you 57 00:02:25,120 --> 00:02:27,760 if Ii get hurt, 58 00:02:27,760 --> 00:02:30,160 please send me some donations! so now I'm 59 00:02:30,160 --> 00:02:32,800 gonna hold it really up, man this is 60 00:02:32,800 --> 00:02:35,360 scary! While experienced belayers 61 00:02:35,360 --> 00:02:37,840 sometimes do this. If they see the 62 00:02:37,840 --> 00:02:40,160 climber falling and they decide that 63 00:02:40,160 --> 00:02:42,720 they want to take some of the slack out 64 00:02:42,720 --> 00:02:45,440 and they do this quickly. If they would 65 00:02:45,440 --> 00:02:48,640 miss time and their hand would go up in 66 00:02:48,640 --> 00:02:50,560 the moment where the climber would load 67 00:02:50,560 --> 00:02:53,040 the rope they might not have enough time 68 00:02:53,040 --> 00:02:55,680 to bring the hand down and the reason 69 00:02:55,680 --> 00:02:57,519 why i'm saying this, 70 00:02:57,519 --> 00:02:58,800 because 71 00:02:58,800 --> 00:03:01,440 i know a person who was dropped down 72 00:03:01,440 --> 00:03:04,319 with this device. It's a click up it's 73 00:03:04,319 --> 00:03:06,480 assisted device 74 00:03:06,480 --> 00:03:08,560 meaning it locks 75 00:03:08,560 --> 00:03:09,760 however, 76 00:03:09,760 --> 00:03:12,959 if you have your brake hand up here 77 00:03:12,959 --> 00:03:15,360 it doesn't lock. The person who I met 78 00:03:15,360 --> 00:03:18,319 told me a story how his belayer tried to 79 00:03:18,319 --> 00:03:20,480 take out the slack really quickly during 80 00:03:20,480 --> 00:03:22,319 the fall but he fell all the way to the 81 00:03:22,319 --> 00:03:24,239 ground. So i'm gonna talk about belaying 82 00:03:24,239 --> 00:03:26,400 devices later but you must know that 83 00:03:26,400 --> 00:03:29,599 even some of assisted belaying devices 84 00:03:29,599 --> 00:03:32,000 do not protect from this. Man this is 85 00:03:32,000 --> 00:03:34,080 scary 86 00:03:34,080 --> 00:03:37,879 don't do this ever Venga! (spanish for go!) 87 00:03:39,260 --> 00:03:42,490 [Music] 88 00:03:47,140 --> 00:03:50,310 [Music] 89 00:03:50,959 --> 00:03:53,200 just because I know that he's about to 90 00:03:53,200 --> 00:03:56,000 fall and i'm kind of 91 00:03:56,000 --> 00:03:58,720 ready to lower my hand so I'm not saying 92 00:03:58,720 --> 00:04:00,560 that taking out the slack during the 93 00:04:00,560 --> 00:04:03,439 fall is a big no, i'm just telling you 94 00:04:03,439 --> 00:04:06,159 what are the risks and if you want to do 95 00:04:06,159 --> 00:04:08,560 this be a cheetah, and if you're not a 96 00:04:08,560 --> 00:04:10,560 cheetah maybe use assisted belaying 97 00:04:10,560 --> 00:04:13,439 device which doesn't have this risk 98 00:04:13,439 --> 00:04:16,159 let's do one more 99 00:04:17,919 --> 00:04:19,680 i'm getting known already for being a 100 00:04:19,680 --> 00:04:21,759 bit crazy 101 00:04:21,759 --> 00:04:25,199 so one more of what not to do 102 00:04:25,199 --> 00:04:28,199 go 103 00:04:29,120 --> 00:04:31,840 man this is scary - yeah 104 00:04:31,840 --> 00:04:33,120 so 105 00:04:33,120 --> 00:04:35,199 it ended up here and I was holding here 106 00:04:35,199 --> 00:04:38,160 so it's not that much slippage 107 00:04:38,160 --> 00:04:40,320 but again just because I know also 108 00:04:40,320 --> 00:04:42,160 probably somebody is gonna comment that 109 00:04:42,160 --> 00:04:45,040 your hand shouldn't ever go up it should 110 00:04:45,040 --> 00:04:47,280 go forward and down 111 00:04:47,280 --> 00:04:49,919 but I guess if you're trying to take a 112 00:04:49,919 --> 00:04:52,720 slack really quickly doing forward and 113 00:04:52,720 --> 00:04:54,639 down 114 00:04:54,639 --> 00:04:58,320 might be not as quick and comfortable as 115 00:04:58,320 --> 00:04:59,919 something like this 116 00:04:59,919 --> 00:05:02,720 so in the end my goal is not to tell you 117 00:05:02,720 --> 00:05:05,199 what to do just to demonstrate what are 118 00:05:05,199 --> 00:05:07,840 the potential risks if you are not the 119 00:05:07,840 --> 00:05:10,320 cheetah or you are not aware that these 120 00:05:10,320 --> 00:05:13,680 things can happen like in the story with 121 00:05:13,680 --> 00:05:17,039 more life-saving tips here and here is a 122 00:05:17,039 --> 00:05:19,280 very in-depth course on climbing 123 00:05:19,280 --> 00:05:22,240 equipment and safe belaying and if you have 124 00:05:22,240 --> 00:05:24,479 seen all of it already good news I'm 125 00:05:24,479 --> 00:05:27,280 already working on new episodes for it 126 00:05:27,280 --> 00:05:31,360 oh and this episode is brought to you by 127 00:05:31,360 --> 00:05:34,400 you, people who are supporting my channel 128 00:05:34,400 --> 00:05:36,639 by visiting my website and knowing how 129 00:05:36,639 --> 00:05:42,039 to do that thank you enjoy climbing