[Music]
so imagine that i am playing with the
tube style device. The higher my brake
hand goes, the lower mechanical advantage
it gives. So here is the question, if i
would have my brake hand right here, and
my climber would take a fall at this
moment, will i have enough reaction to
bring my hand down or my hand will
simply just get sucked into the device?
and maybe i will get hurt and let go
this hand and
sad story. Ready, so to make this
experiment a little bit safer, I started
with my break hand a little bit above
the belaying device go
whoa
ow
i got my hand pinched in the device
[Music]
probably somebody's already typing in
the comments, "oh you should never
keep your hand here". Good if you have
that feeling, then my job so far is going
well so let's continue. - Ready?
yep
well now I had like a reaction to go
down because I was scared
I was anticipating it and I went like
The main reason for this demonstration
is that I see mistakes both in beginners
and advanced climbers. Beginners,
sometimes do this, where they take the
slack
very slowly as the climber is moving and
then they lower the hand and do their
favorite transition, and then they take
the slack slowly again and rise the hand
way too high
don't do this!
go!
whoa
yeah now I kind of learned the instinct
I guess it boils down to how quick you
are exactly my first was probably the
most realistic where I was not like
quick as
what's the quick animal? you know a quick
animal?
cheetah - yeah so if i don't have a
reflexes of cheetah, the hand just goes
into the blank device. m Maybe also the
glove provides better grip on the rope
okay
that's
for you
if Ii get hurt,
please send me some donations! so now I'm
gonna hold it really up, man this is
scary! While experienced belayers
sometimes do this. If they see the
climber falling and they decide that
they want to take some of the slack out
and they do this quickly. If they would
miss time and their hand would go up in
the moment where the climber would load
the rope they might not have enough time
to bring the hand down and the reason
why i'm saying this,
because
i know a person who was dropped down
with this device. It's a click up it's
assisted device
meaning it locks
however,
if you have your brake hand up here
it doesn't lock. The person who I met
told me a story how his belayer tried to
take out the slack really quickly during
the fall but he fell all the way to the
ground. So i'm gonna talk about belaying
devices later but you must know that
even some of assisted belaying devices
do not protect from this. Man this is
scary
don't do this ever Venga! (spanish for go!)
[Music]
just because I know that he's about to
fall and i'm kind of
ready to lower my hand so I'm not saying
that taking out the slack during the
fall is a big no, i'm just telling you
what are the risks and if you want to do
this be a cheetah, and if you're not a
cheetah maybe use assisted belaying
device which doesn't have this risk
let's do one more
i'm getting known already for being a
bit crazy
so one more of what not to do
go
man this is scary - yeah
so
it ended up here and I was holding here
so it's not that much slippage
but again just because I know also
probably somebody is gonna comment that
your hand shouldn't ever go up it should
go forward and down
but I guess if you're trying to take a
slack really quickly doing forward and
down
might be not as quick and comfortable as
something like this
so in the end my goal is not to tell you
what to do just to demonstrate what are
the potential risks if you are not the
cheetah or you are not aware that these
things can happen like in the story with
more life-saving tips here and here is a
very in-depth course on climbing
equipment and safe belaying and if you have
seen all of it already good news I'm
already working on new episodes for it
oh and this episode is brought to you by
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by visiting my website and knowing how
to do that thank you enjoy climbing