[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:00.20,0:00:02.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ah hello curious human I don't know if Dialogue: 0,0:00:02.96,0:00:04.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you ever looked into the technical Dialogue: 0,0:00:04.88,0:00:07.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,specifications of a climbing rope but it Dialogue: 0,0:00:07.52,0:00:10.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,does have a lot of mysterious numbers Dialogue: 0,0:00:10.44,0:00:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that I think are there just to confuse Dialogue: 0,0:00:12.32,0:00:14.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the new climbers and then it has a lot Dialogue: 0,0:00:14.68,0:00:17.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of seemingly obvious things like Dialogue: 0,0:00:17.68,0:00:21.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,diameter length weight however if you Dialogue: 0,0:00:21.68,0:00:24.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,try to measure them and I have tried Dialogue: 0,0:00:24.12,0:00:26.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that many times you will never get the Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.84,0:00:30.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,numbers that are declared so I had two Dialogue: 0,0:00:30.08,0:00:32.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goals for this video the first one was Dialogue: 0,0:00:32.48,0:00:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to visit my nerdy friends at mamut Dialogue: 0,0:00:35.20,0:00:37.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,welcome to the world of Destruction Dialogue: 0,0:00:37.52,0:00:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,welcome to the world of Destruction she Dialogue: 0,0:00:39.76,0:00:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,says and see how every parameter is Dialogue: 0,0:00:42.64,0:00:45.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measured in the lab and what those Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.32,0:00:48.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,numbers actually mean and then I got Dialogue: 0,0:00:48.16,0:00:50.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,curious is there any difference between Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.36,0:00:52.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different ropes meaning if I take 9.5 Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.88,0:00:55.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from one brand and then I would take 9.5 Dialogue: 0,0:00:55.64,0:00:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope from the other brand will there be Dialogue: 0,0:00:58.80,0:01:00.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,any difference in technical Dialogue: 0,0:01:00.84,0:01:03.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,specifications or it's pretty much all Dialogue: 0,0:01:03.04,0:01:05.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the same nowadays so I ended up scraping Dialogue: 0,0:01:05.76,0:01:07.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the internet and collecting Dialogue: 0,0:01:07.16,0:01:09.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,specifications of hundreds of climbing Dialogue: 0,0:01:09.28,0:01:11.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes and then building correlation Dialogue: 0,0:01:11.16,0:01:13.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,charts between different Dialogue: 0,0:01:13.28,0:01:16.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,parameters so yeah all with the goal to Dialogue: 0,0:01:16.84,0:01:20.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,make you a bit of a climbing rope nerd Dialogue: 0,0:01:20.44,0:01:21.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or nerd Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.96,0:01:26.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this the Holy Bible the Holy Bible Dialogue: 0,0:01:26.52,0:01:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,standards Dialogue: 0,0:01:30.32,0:01:32.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so you follow the Bible when you do the Dialogue: 0,0:01:32.12,0:01:35.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,testing yes this is actually like um Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.20,0:01:38.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,short version short version yes you even Dialogue: 0,0:01:38.40,0:01:42.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,add underscores like so geeky yeah Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.64,0:01:45.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's instead of space he just adds Dialogue: 0,0:01:45.32,0:01:48.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,underscore Dash so I have here a classic Dialogue: 0,0:01:48.56,0:01:50.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,report an internal report in which we Dialogue: 0,0:01:50.68,0:01:52.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have to provide numbers for a Dialogue: 0,0:01:52.80,0:01:55.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,construction diameter the weight of the Dialogue: 0,0:01:55.04,0:01:56.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Corp and the weight for the sheath and Dialogue: 0,0:01:56.92,0:01:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then of course we we sum it up and then Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.40,0:02:01.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we get the weight per per gr per meters Dialogue: 0,0:02:01.64,0:02:03.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay you're overloading me already let's Dialogue: 0,0:02:03.28,0:02:06.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,go one by one one by one construction Dialogue: 0,0:02:06.08,0:02:09.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,test construction test what is that so Dialogue: 0,0:02:09.40,0:02:11.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,construction is a number that will be Dialogue: 0,0:02:11.92,0:02:15.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tested that the consumer will never Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.56,0:02:17.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,see just make a Dialogue: 0,0:02:17.96,0:02:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pric and then Dialogue: 0,0:02:20.64,0:02:22.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I Dialogue: 0,0:02:22.32,0:02:26.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slowly let the wait in so you just put Dialogue: 0,0:02:26.92,0:02:29.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now 10 kg 10 kg and then now we should Dialogue: 0,0:02:29.60,0:02:31.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wait for a minute but in the meantime I Dialogue: 0,0:02:31.28,0:02:33.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can explain you you say Okay I want to Dialogue: 0,0:02:33.12,0:02:35.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,start from here then you follow a Dialogue: 0,0:02:35.60,0:02:38.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,straight line you come back to the same Dialogue: 0,0:02:38.44,0:02:41.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pattern and you do this five Dialogue: 0,0:02:41.12,0:02:46.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,times one two three and five certified Dialogue: 0,0:02:46.44,0:02:49.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ruler my minute is almost done so now I Dialogue: 0,0:02:49.60,0:02:53.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can take my measurement this is 17 cm my Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.52,0:02:58.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,construction will be 17 cm divid 5 34 mm Dialogue: 0,0:02:58.80,0:03:00.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this means that Dialogue: 0,0:03:00.88,0:03:03.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,every 34 mm we have a repetition in the Dialogue: 0,0:03:03.76,0:03:06.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the pattern in the pattern exactly Dialogue: 0,0:03:06.92,0:03:11.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the smaller the size that means you have Dialogue: 0,0:03:11.16,0:03:16.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more material on the same surface area Dialogue: 0,0:03:16.16,0:03:18.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so if you have more material on the same Dialogue: 0,0:03:18.08,0:03:21.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,surface area it gets more Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.12,0:03:25.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stiff if it's more spread out that means Dialogue: 0,0:03:25.08,0:03:29.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the angle of the twins is a little bit Dialogue: 0,0:03:29.36,0:03:31.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more steep mhm then you have less Dialogue: 0,0:03:31.80,0:03:34.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,material on the same surface area and Dialogue: 0,0:03:34.28,0:03:37.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then it's softer so are you aiming to Dialogue: 0,0:03:37.76,0:03:41.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have more material in the same or it's a Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.08,0:03:43.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,balance that you're playing with you're Dialogue: 0,0:03:43.32,0:03:45.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,trying to get the best hand feel for the Dialogue: 0,0:03:45.48,0:03:47.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope Mamud ropes for example are usually Dialogue: 0,0:03:47.64,0:03:50.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,known to be a little bit stiffer so we Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.36,0:03:53.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,know what kind um of construction we Dialogue: 0,0:03:53.00,0:03:55.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,need to make in order to achieve this Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.64,0:03:57.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this is actually very interesting if you Dialogue: 0,0:03:57.76,0:03:59.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,compare Dynamic ropes from different Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.80,0:04:02.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Brands you can feel that some of them Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.12,0:04:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can be very soft While others can be Dialogue: 0,0:04:04.80,0:04:07.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,much stiffer unfortunately as Adriana Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.96,0:04:11.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,said I was not able to find any Brands Dialogue: 0,0:04:11.00,0:04:13.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,listing construction on their data Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.52,0:04:16.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sheets pel does have a property named Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.32,0:04:18.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,construction but what they actually list Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.92,0:04:21.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is the number of bobbins that were used Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.60,0:04:23.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in the making of the Rope so it's a Dialogue: 0,0:04:23.76,0:04:26.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different parameter which is also very Dialogue: 0,0:04:26.04,0:04:29.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rare to find on specifications but the Dialogue: 0,0:04:29.04,0:04:32.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more B Robins used the smoother the Shi Dialogue: 0,0:04:32.76,0:04:35.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the Rope is going to be the cubicles Dialogue: 0,0:04:35.28,0:04:37.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that make the Rope will be much smaller Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.96,0:04:40.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which creates less friction and should Dialogue: 0,0:04:40.12,0:04:42.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,increase the durability of the Rope but Dialogue: 0,0:04:42.60,0:04:44.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back to the softness of the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:04:44.56,0:04:49.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,personally I would like a uiaa soft test Dialogue: 0,0:04:49.00,0:04:51.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unfortunately currently we only have one Dialogue: 0,0:04:51.88,0:04:55.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,test which is somewhat related next test Dialogue: 0,0:04:55.56,0:04:58.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,next test it's called notability test Dialogue: 0,0:04:58.12,0:05:00.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's part of the static rope test but we Dialogue: 0,0:05:00.20,0:05:03.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do it anyways even for our Dynamic ropes Dialogue: 0,0:05:03.24,0:05:08.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we have to do is make a simple overhand Dialogue: 0,0:05:09.40,0:05:12.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,knot so they are both overhand knots Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.40,0:05:14.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they are opposite they're mirroring each Dialogue: 0,0:05:14.28,0:05:19.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,other 10 kg let it sit Dialogue: 0,0:05:20.60,0:05:24.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gently for a Dialogue: 0,0:05:24.28,0:05:28.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,minute we have this uh Harry Potter wand Dialogue: 0,0:05:28.72,0:05:30.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Harry Potter wand Dialogue: 0,0:05:30.16,0:05:31.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do you know any Dialogue: 0,0:05:31.56,0:05:34.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,spells Dialogue: 0,0:05:35.64,0:05:38.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,uh oh that would be useful for climbing Dialogue: 0,0:05:38.60,0:05:40.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah lift myself up to the next bolt Dialogue: 0,0:05:40.76,0:05:44.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then I gently take out I only leave the Dialogue: 0,0:05:44.36,0:05:46.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,1 kilogram and now without putting Dialogue: 0,0:05:46.64,0:05:49.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pressure I need Dialogue: 0,0:05:49.36,0:05:52.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to make it go Dialogue: 0,0:05:52.44,0:05:55.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in so here is roughly Dialogue: 0,0:05:55.20,0:05:59.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,seven here I go Dialogue: 0,0:06:03.64,0:06:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,seven so notability is a ratio between Dialogue: 0,0:06:06.88,0:06:10.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope diameter and magic wand penetration Dialogue: 0,0:06:10.36,0:06:12.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the smaller the number the softer the Dialogue: 0,0:06:12.60,0:06:15.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope is but it's rare to see Dialogue: 0,0:06:15.60,0:06:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,manufacturers providing this number for Dialogue: 0,0:06:17.92,0:06:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dynamic ropes so if you are particular Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.80,0:06:23.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on how soft you want your rope to be Dialogue: 0,0:06:23.44,0:06:26.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unfortunately you will have to go out Dialogue: 0,0:06:26.04,0:06:29.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into the climbing shop and touch oh next Dialogue: 0,0:06:29.64,0:06:32.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one is my favorite one diameter diameter Dialogue: 0,0:06:32.20,0:06:34.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exactly I've tried to measure this so Dialogue: 0,0:06:34.88,0:06:35.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,many Dialogue: 0,0:06:35.84,0:06:38.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,times and it's a wild west when you Dialogue: 0,0:06:38.84,0:06:43.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measure it so show it how you arrive to Dialogue: 0,0:06:43.64,0:06:47.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,9.5 okay so 9.5 9.8 I have to measure Dialogue: 0,0:06:47.72,0:06:50.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,within one meter of sample of course Dialogue: 0,0:06:50.60,0:06:54.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there's always a tolerance now I get my Dialogue: 0,0:06:54.00,0:06:57.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,caliper with the special flat edges oh Dialogue: 0,0:06:57.80,0:07:00.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's a different caliper yeah Dialogue: 0,0:07:00.88,0:07:03.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now I have to take six measurements I'm Dialogue: 0,0:07:03.32,0:07:06.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not trying to squeeze to get my number Dialogue: 0,0:07:06.88,0:07:09.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but without putting pressure I need to Dialogue: 0,0:07:09.84,0:07:13.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,go around and see where it's Dialogue: 0,0:07:15.28,0:07:19.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,maximum it should be here Dialogue: 0,0:07:19.48,0:07:23.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10.03 and then I can turn Dialogue: 0,0:07:23.28,0:07:27.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,90° 9.8 so you found the thickest point Dialogue: 0,0:07:27.44,0:07:30.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in that spot and the thinnest Dialogue: 0,0:07:30.04,0:07:32.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and you take the average of that Dialogue: 0,0:07:32.52,0:07:35.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes then here I do the Dialogue: 0,0:07:35.04,0:07:36.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same Dialogue: 0,0:07:36.92,0:07:39.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,9.84 + Dialogue: 0,0:07:39.00,0:07:41.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,103 Dialogue: 0,0:07:41.00,0:07:44.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,9.82 so I divide everything by my six Dialogue: 0,0:07:44.92,0:07:47.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measurements then I get a 9.95 and what Dialogue: 0,0:07:47.72,0:07:49.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was it supposed to be Dialogue: 0,0:07:49.56,0:07:53.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,9.8 so we are Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.24,0:07:56.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,015 over yes so something to know is Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.92,0:08:00.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that by standard we have a Dialogue: 0,0:08:00.64,0:08:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,0.2 um tolerance for the diameter so Dialogue: 0,0:08:04.48,0:08:08.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,every rope I buy as a plus minus yeah to Dialogue: 0,0:08:08.40,0:08:10.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,factor in the various steps of Dialogue: 0,0:08:10.80,0:08:13.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,production which you cannot control down Dialogue: 0,0:08:13.28,0:08:16.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the 0 mm so basically whatever goes Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.84,0:08:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the package is plusus 0.2 mm anyway Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.44,0:08:25.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measured in preloaded way exactly so Dialogue: 0,0:08:25.48,0:08:27.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's why pretty much every time I try Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.60,0:08:31.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to measure it is way more more mhm so no Dialogue: 0,0:08:31.00,0:08:34.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,point in doing this at home well now now Dialogue: 0,0:08:34.44,0:08:36.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we know now now you know how yes but Dialogue: 0,0:08:36.88,0:08:39.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also all the samples would need to be Dialogue: 0,0:08:39.04,0:08:41.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climatized at a certain temperature and Dialogue: 0,0:08:41.72,0:08:44.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,humidity percentage so we put it in that Dialogue: 0,0:08:44.92,0:08:47.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,big cabinet over there which keeps Dialogue: 0,0:08:47.64,0:08:51.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,23° and 50% humidity and technically Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.44,0:08:53.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this test has to be done within a Dialogue: 0,0:08:53.28,0:08:56.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,certain time upon removal 1 minute to Dialogue: 0,0:08:56.24,0:08:58.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hang the 10 kg then within 1 minute you Dialogue: 0,0:08:58.76,0:09:00.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,had to measure the construction within Dialogue: 0,0:09:00.96,0:09:02.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,another minute you had to measure the Dialogue: 0,0:09:02.60,0:09:04.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,diameter so you're running from there to Dialogue: 0,0:09:04.56,0:09:07.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here yeah I try to be fast okay and you Dialogue: 0,0:09:07.48,0:09:09.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,know what always fascinates me how such Dialogue: 0,0:09:09.72,0:09:12.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a small change can make such a big Dialogue: 0,0:09:12.40,0:09:15.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference if we compare 9.0 rope Dialogue: 0,0:09:15.80,0:09:19.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,against 9.5 rope you will feel a big Dialogue: 0,0:09:19.44,0:09:21.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference however at the same time it's Dialogue: 0,0:09:21.96,0:09:26.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only half a millim difference now we can Dialogue: 0,0:09:26.72,0:09:29.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do the weight per meter don't need this Dialogue: 0,0:09:29.84,0:09:32.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm going to cut on the same side of the Dialogue: 0,0:09:32.12,0:09:34.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pin I put in just to factor in that bit Dialogue: 0,0:09:34.40,0:09:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of Dialogue: 0,0:09:36.24,0:09:40.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,H oh okay and also Dialogue: 0,0:09:42.40,0:09:46.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here so this is 1 M if you put 10 kilog Dialogue: 0,0:09:46.40,0:09:50.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes and then here what we do is we take Dialogue: 0,0:09:50.48,0:09:54.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the core out and measure it and also as Dialogue: 0,0:09:54.04,0:09:56.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can see this is another really Dialogue: 0,0:09:56.16,0:09:59.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,precise kill if I go like this Dialogue: 0,0:09:59.44,0:10:02.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it changes so basically just little bit Dialogue: 0,0:10:02.20,0:10:05.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of wind does change the reading yes Dialogue: 0,0:10:05.52,0:10:07.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exactly now I Dialogue: 0,0:10:07.60,0:10:11.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do the sheath weight now in rope Dialogue: 0,0:10:11.40,0:10:13.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,specifications you will always find Dialogue: 0,0:10:13.48,0:10:16.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,combined weight per meter and shift Dialogue: 0,0:10:16.96,0:10:19.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,percentage however if you want to know Dialogue: 0,0:10:19.28,0:10:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the total weight of your rope Dialogue: 0,0:10:21.44,0:10:24.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multiplying weight per meter by the Dialogue: 0,0:10:24.20,0:10:27.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,meters which seems obvious is not going Dialogue: 0,0:10:27.40,0:10:30.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to be accurate at all so first as you Dialogue: 0,0:10:30.00,0:10:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,saw their meter is taken from the loaded Dialogue: 0,0:10:33.28,0:10:36.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope but also manufacturers Package 2 to Dialogue: 0,0:10:36.52,0:10:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,3% more length of the Rope than what Dialogue: 0,0:10:39.76,0:10:42.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they declare on the package and that's Dialogue: 0,0:10:42.00,0:10:44.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,done because ropes have a tendency to Dialogue: 0,0:10:44.24,0:10:47.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,shrink over time so manufacturers are Dialogue: 0,0:10:47.52,0:10:51.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,being nice to us by giving more of the Dialogue: 0,0:10:51.48,0:10:53.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope now obviously there is a clear Dialogue: 0,0:10:53.68,0:10:55.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,correlation between the diameter of the Dialogue: 0,0:10:55.92,0:10:58.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope and the weight but what is Dialogue: 0,0:10:58.36,0:11:00.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,interesting is is that the variance can Dialogue: 0,0:11:00.76,0:11:03.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still be very big for example there are Dialogue: 0,0:11:03.72,0:11:07.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,10 mm ropes that are lighter than some Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.32,0:11:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of 9.5 ropes now personally I'm not a Dialogue: 0,0:11:11.36,0:11:13.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,big fan of chasing the lightest and Dialogue: 0,0:11:13.60,0:11:16.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,smallest in everything but if the weight Dialogue: 0,0:11:16.40,0:11:18.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is a big factor for you you might be Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.56,0:11:21.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,entertained to know that multiple Brands Dialogue: 0,0:11:21.44,0:11:24.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,claim to have the lightest double rope Dialogue: 0,0:11:24.00,0:11:27.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the market next test next test shift Dialogue: 0,0:11:27.52,0:11:32.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,slippage shift so now exactly so this is Dialogue: 0,0:11:32.36,0:11:35.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your favorite room in summer for sure Dialogue: 0,0:11:35.00,0:11:38.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when it's really hot so now this end is Dialogue: 0,0:11:38.20,0:11:41.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,open and this one is sealed cuz I cut it Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.00,0:11:42.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with the heat cutter now I can explain Dialogue: 0,0:11:42.76,0:11:45.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you what this Dialogue: 0,0:11:45.96,0:11:49.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is exactly this very simple let's call Dialogue: 0,0:11:49.44,0:11:52.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it machine is defined uh this machine is Dialogue: 0,0:11:52.44,0:11:53.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,called Dialogue: 0,0:11:53.32,0:11:55.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,machine no it's called shift slippage Dialogue: 0,0:11:55.96,0:12:00.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,machine oh sh shift shift she slippage Dialogue: 0,0:12:00.32,0:12:02.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,machine exactly so what we're going to Dialogue: 0,0:12:02.40,0:12:05.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do here we have this uh three 5 kilogram Dialogue: 0,0:12:05.40,0:12:08.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,weights and we're going to engage them Dialogue: 0,0:12:08.36,0:12:10.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so now this one is pulling this one is Dialogue: 0,0:12:10.40,0:12:13.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pulling and this one is pulling so now Dialogue: 0,0:12:13.28,0:12:17.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in here we have three standardized bolts Dialogue: 0,0:12:17.48,0:12:19.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and they're pulling on three Direction Dialogue: 0,0:12:19.32,0:12:21.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different directions so one is pulling Dialogue: 0,0:12:21.16,0:12:23.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this way this one is pulling this way Dialogue: 0,0:12:23.48,0:12:26.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this one is pulling down mhm what I have Dialogue: 0,0:12:26.00,0:12:29.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to do I have to pull it until the end Dialogue: 0,0:12:29.24,0:12:31.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,comes within this marks that's why I Dialogue: 0,0:12:31.68,0:12:34.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have my uh my mirror here so I can check Dialogue: 0,0:12:34.44,0:12:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so I can Dialogue: 0,0:12:36.80,0:12:39.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,start and it has to be a continuous Dialogue: 0,0:12:39.40,0:12:42.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,speed and I'm Dialogue: 0,0:12:42.40,0:12:46.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there so you pulled the rope with some Dialogue: 0,0:12:46.24,0:12:49.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pressure from three sides towards the Dialogue: 0,0:12:49.92,0:12:52.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope Dialogue: 0,0:12:52.64,0:12:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes and now you reset and pulling again Dialogue: 0,0:12:56.56,0:13:01.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes and I have to do this five times Dialogue: 0,0:13:03.40,0:13:07.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so it's basically rope squeezer yeah Dialogue: 0,0:13:07.56,0:13:09.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,number Dialogue: 0,0:13:09.88,0:13:12.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,five as you see I've never touched this Dialogue: 0,0:13:12.32,0:13:14.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,part right I was always pulling and Dialogue: 0,0:13:14.60,0:13:17.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pushing from this part now I slide it Dialogue: 0,0:13:17.20,0:13:18.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back Dialogue: 0,0:13:18.12,0:13:20.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,again you're talking like a magician you Dialogue: 0,0:13:20.64,0:13:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,know of course Pini as you see nothing Dialogue: 0,0:13:23.84,0:13:26.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happens here and now look Poof Dialogue: 0,0:13:26.44,0:13:29.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Magic now you can actually see Dialogue: 0,0:13:29.72,0:13:33.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here exactly where we had our Mark the Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.32,0:13:35.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,shei hasn't moved he really sounds like Dialogue: 0,0:13:35.56,0:13:36.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a magician Dialogue: 0,0:13:36.84,0:13:40.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now you want some some poof trick number Dialogue: 0,0:13:40.76,0:13:43.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one I know this is actually something I Dialogue: 0,0:13:43.28,0:13:46.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I really really like uh shift slip is Dialogue: 0,0:13:46.36,0:13:49.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,zero that's why we declare zero so what Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.24,0:13:54.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you could expect usually is to have your Dialogue: 0,0:13:54.96,0:13:58.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,core to be now it's just out and then Dialogue: 0,0:13:58.56,0:14:01.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you would have to measure like this this Dialogue: 0,0:14:01.80,0:14:06.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be 6.77 mm and this we will call Dialogue: 0,0:14:06.00,0:14:09.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,minus 6.7 cuz it goes out so what I had Dialogue: 0,0:14:09.96,0:14:12.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happened where I cut the rope even Dialogue: 0,0:14:12.72,0:14:14.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,though I burn the end but maybe I don't Dialogue: 0,0:14:14.84,0:14:17.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,burn it very well and I go climbing and Dialogue: 0,0:14:17.96,0:14:20.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sometimes some of the core starts coming Dialogue: 0,0:14:20.72,0:14:25.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out is this related to this yes so with Dialogue: 0,0:14:25.20,0:14:27.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this rope which is declared as zero Dialogue: 0,0:14:27.00,0:14:30.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sheep slippage the core would not start Dialogue: 0,0:14:30.48,0:14:32.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,coming out of the if one end is sealed Dialogue: 0,0:14:32.88,0:14:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if one end is sealed and if both ends Dialogue: 0,0:14:36.24,0:14:39.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,were cut then the core is free to move Dialogue: 0,0:14:39.52,0:14:41.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's like a snake in a tube it just goes Dialogue: 0,0:14:41.68,0:14:43.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back and forth if you wants I've done Dialogue: 0,0:14:43.44,0:14:45.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this many times I still sometimes find Dialogue: 0,0:14:45.60,0:14:48.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it difficult to burn the end well you Dialogue: 0,0:14:48.08,0:14:50.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,might burn a little bit and it's there Dialogue: 0,0:14:50.16,0:14:52.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is still visibly big holes then you Dialogue: 0,0:14:52.36,0:14:54.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,start burning more then it all goes on Dialogue: 0,0:14:54.40,0:14:57.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fire and then the big Clump happens well Dialogue: 0,0:14:57.88,0:15:00.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what I do sometimes times but this is Dialogue: 0,0:15:00.60,0:15:03.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you hit the knife no I I use I use a Dialogue: 0,0:15:03.08,0:15:04.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stove you make it really hot and then Dialogue: 0,0:15:04.72,0:15:06.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,try to tension it as much as much as Dialogue: 0,0:15:06.92,0:15:10.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,possible and use bars going through the Dialogue: 0,0:15:10.76,0:15:13.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you know the gas burning use that one as Dialogue: 0,0:15:13.04,0:15:16.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a knife oh so it it it will look like Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.88,0:15:20.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this and then you have that fume of Dialogue: 0,0:15:20.32,0:15:23.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,plastic coming out of your stove for how Dialogue: 0,0:15:23.36,0:15:26.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,many days that's not safe maybe because Dialogue: 0,0:15:26.40,0:15:28.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're burning plastic but this is not a Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.40,0:15:31.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,m Cor recommendation this is a a Dialogue: 0,0:15:31.76,0:15:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,recommendation okay now when it comes to Dialogue: 0,0:15:33.84,0:15:36.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,shift slippage unfortunately not all the Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.84,0:15:39.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,brands list that information on their Dialogue: 0,0:15:39.36,0:15:42.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,websites and in some cases they list Dialogue: 0,0:15:42.36,0:15:44.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only on some of the ropes so if it's Dialogue: 0,0:15:44.64,0:15:47.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,zero they list zero if it's not zero Dialogue: 0,0:15:47.00,0:15:49.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then who knows and according to the Dialogue: 0,0:15:49.12,0:15:51.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,standard this information should be on Dialogue: 0,0:15:51.08,0:15:53.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the packaging however if you're shopping Dialogue: 0,0:15:53.60,0:15:57.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,online then good luck knowing now we Dialogue: 0,0:15:57.08,0:15:59.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have to do static elongation so these Dialogue: 0,0:15:59.12,0:16:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are reflected tapes and I'm putting it Dialogue: 0,0:16:01.96,0:16:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just a little bit above my clamps one at Dialogue: 0,0:16:05.00,0:16:09.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the bottom one here at the top now sorry Dialogue: 0,0:16:09.72,0:16:12.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I go in only while the machine is not Dialogue: 0,0:16:12.64,0:16:15.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,running just because I have to play with Dialogue: 0,0:16:15.56,0:16:20.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lasers of course exactly I can Dialogue: 0,0:16:20.76,0:16:23.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,start only while the machine is not Dialogue: 0,0:16:23.16,0:16:24.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,running Dialogue: 0,0:16:24.44,0:16:27.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,instead so it went into a pre-tension Dialogue: 0,0:16:27.56,0:16:30.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,phase and now I need to check that the Dialogue: 0,0:16:30.48,0:16:34.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,laser is actually in place so I read the Dialogue: 0,0:16:34.20,0:16:35.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first one because you saw it stopped and Dialogue: 0,0:16:35.64,0:16:38.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,beep and blinked now we'll reach the top Dialogue: 0,0:16:38.76,0:16:41.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one and blink Dialogue: 0,0:16:44.88,0:16:47.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,again let's just close this Dialogue: 0,0:16:47.88,0:16:50.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one so as you can see the the lasers are Dialogue: 0,0:16:50.84,0:16:53.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going up ah so your markers are going up Dialogue: 0,0:16:53.68,0:16:55.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the lasers keep following them Dialogue: 0,0:16:55.36,0:16:58.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exactly and we have our holding time of Dialogue: 0,0:16:58.48,0:17:01.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,3 minutes and it keeps holding exactly Dialogue: 0,0:17:01.24,0:17:03.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,80 kg as the Rope is relaxing it keeps Dialogue: 0,0:17:03.88,0:17:06.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pulling more that's why you can see here Dialogue: 0,0:17:06.36,0:17:09.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,D L elongation of the sample compared to Dialogue: 0,0:17:09.48,0:17:11.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the starting position yeah see it keeps Dialogue: 0,0:17:11.52,0:17:14.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,increasing so if I stand here and the Dialogue: 0,0:17:14.08,0:17:15.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,laser misses the marker it shines Dialogue: 0,0:17:15.80,0:17:18.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,straight to my eyes yeah and then you Dialogue: 0,0:17:18.28,0:17:21.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,get to stay home from Dialogue: 0,0:17:22.60,0:17:26.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,work I just smiling saying Dialogue: 0,0:17:26.04,0:17:29.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thisas okay so machine completely Dialogue: 0,0:17:29.36,0:17:32.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,relaxed yes and your lasers went down Dialogue: 0,0:17:32.76,0:17:36.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes and you got the results Dialogue: 0,0:17:36.04,0:17:38.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,5.71% so static elongation is basically Dialogue: 0,0:17:38.92,0:17:41.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,imitating you sitting in the Rope or Dialogue: 0,0:17:41.60,0:17:43.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,taking a top rope fall and for most Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.88,0:17:47.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dynamic ropes it's between 5 to 10% Dialogue: 0,0:17:47.36,0:17:50.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where 10% is the maximum allowed by the Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.60,0:17:53.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,standards let's say you want to top rope Dialogue: 0,0:17:53.36,0:17:56.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a 30 m long route and the climber takes Dialogue: 0,0:17:56.76,0:17:59.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a fall close to the ground so so we have Dialogue: 0,0:17:59.72,0:18:02.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,total 60 M of rope in the system Let's Dialogue: 0,0:18:02.84,0:18:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ignore all the potential zigzags Dialogue: 0,0:18:05.00,0:18:07.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,friction and maybe slack and let's say Dialogue: 0,0:18:07.12,0:18:09.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we are using a rope with 5% of Dialogue: 0,0:18:09.92,0:18:12.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,static elongation so such Fall Would Dialogue: 0,0:18:12.84,0:18:16.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stretch the Rope for 3 m but if our Dialogue: 0,0:18:16.20,0:18:19.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,static elongation would be closer to 10% Dialogue: 0,0:18:19.44,0:18:22.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then the fall or the stretch would be up Dialogue: 0,0:18:22.64,0:18:25.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to 6 M and that would be really bad for Dialogue: 0,0:18:25.88,0:18:28.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,top roping with such rope at the same Dialogue: 0,0:18:28.28,0:18:30.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,time it would also be a bad rope for Dialogue: 0,0:18:30.44,0:18:32.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,projecting cuz every time you would pull Dialogue: 0,0:18:32.68,0:18:34.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on the Rope you would be just stretching Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.68,0:18:37.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it like a rubber band but I'm going to Dialogue: 0,0:18:37.00,0:18:39.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,come back to this topic after we see how Dialogue: 0,0:18:39.88,0:18:43.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Dynamic elongation and impact force is Dialogue: 0,0:18:43.24,0:18:46.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measured so so yes welcome to the fancy Dialogue: 0,0:18:46.96,0:18:49.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,drop tower exactly super fancy that it's Dialogue: 0,0:18:49.48,0:18:52.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all kind of automatic I see it's doing Dialogue: 0,0:18:52.12,0:18:54.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,its thing and you're doing nothing yeah Dialogue: 0,0:18:54.56,0:18:56.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah yeah besides running up and down Dialogue: 0,0:18:56.08,0:18:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Dialogue: 0,0:18:57.28,0:19:00.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stairs so now basically just went up Dialogue: 0,0:19:00.32,0:19:03.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,checked all the positions now I have to Dialogue: 0,0:19:03.16,0:19:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tie in the Dialogue: 0,0:19:04.80,0:19:09.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sample secure it one two so there is no Dialogue: 0,0:19:09.72,0:19:11.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,knot at this end Dialogue: 0,0:19:11.96,0:19:14.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no ah so it's friction but in the end Dialogue: 0,0:19:14.84,0:19:17.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is still some kind of clamp yes Dialogue: 0,0:19:17.84,0:19:19.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and what we do here with these three Dialogue: 0,0:19:19.32,0:19:22.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,turns is to not have the force of the Dialogue: 0,0:19:22.36,0:19:25.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fall absorb here yeah it would break it Dialogue: 0,0:19:25.48,0:19:26.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that spot exactly it would just Dialogue: 0,0:19:26.92,0:19:29.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,basically choke it and cut it so our Dialogue: 0,0:19:29.00,0:19:31.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goal here is to simulate a really high Dialogue: 0,0:19:31.84,0:19:33.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,factor fall for example you're Dialogue: 0,0:19:33.56,0:19:35.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multipitch climbing and you start off Dialogue: 0,0:19:35.60,0:19:37.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you always you know back up at the Dialogue: 0,0:19:37.12,0:19:38.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anchor cuz you don't want to fall Dialogue: 0,0:19:38.64,0:19:40.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,directly into the blade device so this Dialogue: 0,0:19:40.72,0:19:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is your blade device then the Rope goes Dialogue: 0,0:19:43.60,0:19:47.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the anchor and then you take 2 m and Dialogue: 0,0:19:47.76,0:19:50.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a half yeah more or less and then you Dialogue: 0,0:19:50.72,0:19:53.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climb all the way above it yeah and you Dialogue: 0,0:19:53.92,0:19:57.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,take a massive whipper and you are a Dialogue: 0,0:19:57.64,0:20:03.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,still Monas of 70 kg 80 80 kg steel Mass Dialogue: 0,0:20:03.84,0:20:06.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,falling in in a in a freeway there's no Dialogue: 0,0:20:06.68,0:20:09.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,friction you don't slam in the wall so Dialogue: 0,0:20:09.04,0:20:11.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's falling Dialogue: 0,0:20:11.36,0:20:14.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,vertically I am it's preloading what Dialogue: 0,0:20:14.76,0:20:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what just happened we tied the top I did Dialogue: 0,0:20:17.36,0:20:19.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,an eight knot at the bottom and now we Dialogue: 0,0:20:19.76,0:20:21.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are elongating the Rope 80 kg are Dialogue: 0,0:20:21.80,0:20:23.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sitting in the rope and just you know Dialogue: 0,0:20:23.72,0:20:26.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,okay so before the drop it's already Dialogue: 0,0:20:26.52,0:20:29.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,elongating for one minute I usually say Dialogue: 0,0:20:29.00,0:20:31.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that this kind of activates the Dialogue: 0,0:20:31.48,0:20:34.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope my minute was gone and now it's Dialogue: 0,0:20:34.64,0:20:37.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going back Dialogue: 0,0:20:37.12,0:20:40.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up opening again the clamps because now Dialogue: 0,0:20:40.48,0:20:43.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we need to calibrate to measure the Dialogue: 0,0:20:43.12,0:20:46.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exact length so at first you put some Dialogue: 0,0:20:46.84,0:20:49.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,weight on the Rope so it stretches to Dialogue: 0,0:20:49.72,0:20:53.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,certain degree yeah and only then you Dialogue: 0,0:20:53.44,0:20:57.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are calibrating the length yeah so now I Dialogue: 0,0:20:57.44,0:20:59.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,put this two Dialogue: 0,0:20:59.88,0:21:03.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then I let 10 kg Dialogue: 0,0:21:03.72,0:21:07.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in so by doing this we make sure that Dialogue: 0,0:21:07.24,0:21:09.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from here to there there will always be Dialogue: 0,0:21:09.76,0:21:12.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the same sample length but it's not like Dialogue: 0,0:21:12.52,0:21:15.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I am pulling here to to get it as tight Dialogue: 0,0:21:15.48,0:21:17.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as possible and then comes another Dialogue: 0,0:21:17.16,0:21:19.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,tester and they maybe pull a little bit Dialogue: 0,0:21:19.08,0:21:22.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,more than me a little bit less then here Dialogue: 0,0:21:22.08,0:21:24.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm just basically doing a mark with my Dialogue: 0,0:21:24.92,0:21:27.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,adding 3,000 and I'm not sponsored by Dialogue: 0,0:21:27.08,0:21:29.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,adding but it's just this is the marker Dialogue: 0,0:21:29.44,0:21:30.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that you need to use for your ropes cuz Dialogue: 0,0:21:30.88,0:21:32.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it doesn't hurt them it's very important Dialogue: 0,0:21:32.60,0:21:36.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to Mark the Spot to see that the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:21:36.28,0:21:37.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,remained in the same position because if Dialogue: 0,0:21:37.84,0:21:39.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it would slip somehow then you would Dialogue: 0,0:21:39.72,0:21:43.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,always deliver more or new material to Dialogue: 0,0:21:43.60,0:21:46.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the deflection Edge you would get ah cuz Dialogue: 0,0:21:46.20,0:21:48.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you are trying to hit always exactly the Dialogue: 0,0:21:48.44,0:21:50.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same spot in every fall yeah if you have Dialogue: 0,0:21:50.92,0:21:52.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a rope slippage in the clam then it's Dialogue: 0,0:21:52.84,0:21:54.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,enough un Dialogue: 0,0:21:54.80,0:21:57.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,result so now what it's hanging again Dialogue: 0,0:21:57.84,0:22:00.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,now it's hanging again again and I Dialogue: 0,0:22:00.32,0:22:01.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thought you just going to drop and Dialogue: 0,0:22:01.72,0:22:05.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's it but like entire preparation Dialogue: 0,0:22:05.28,0:22:07.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,procedure and now this is actually the Dialogue: 0,0:22:07.16,0:22:08.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,most important part because after this Dialogue: 0,0:22:08.96,0:22:12.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one we will read exactly the SLE sample Dialogue: 0,0:22:12.08,0:22:14.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,length so the the machine takes a Dialogue: 0,0:22:14.16,0:22:17.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,measurement of the length yes down to Dialogue: 0,0:22:17.48,0:22:19.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the 01 Dialogue: 0,0:22:19.72,0:22:25.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mm so now it's just going to go Kaboom Dialogue: 0,0:22:27.12,0:22:31.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes oh man that's a big whipper on Dialogue: 0,0:22:31.12,0:22:35.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this like okay so now this is our rope Dialogue: 0,0:22:35.68,0:22:38.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as you see yeah it's like completely Dialogue: 0,0:22:38.16,0:22:40.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going up you see there's no more there's Dialogue: 0,0:22:40.44,0:22:42.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,no stretch right okay so pretty much Dialogue: 0,0:22:42.84,0:22:44.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,every all the rope that you had is going Dialogue: 0,0:22:44.96,0:22:47.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,up there Dialogue: 0,0:22:53.48,0:22:57.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yes wow that is like still a big bang Dialogue: 0,0:22:57.80,0:22:58.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,big bang Dialogue: 0,0:22:58.96,0:23:00.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah imagine when it rips then it's a Dialogue: 0,0:23:00.72,0:23:05.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,real big bang so we had a 30% elongation Dialogue: 0,0:23:05.00,0:23:07.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and Max Force was Dialogue: 0,0:23:07.36,0:23:10.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,8.85 K all right let's start with Dialogue: 0,0:23:10.24,0:23:12.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,elongation I thought that a stretchy Dialogue: 0,0:23:12.64,0:23:15.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rope is a stretchy rope meaning that if Dialogue: 0,0:23:15.16,0:23:17.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it has high static elongation it should Dialogue: 0,0:23:17.92,0:23:20.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have high Dynamic elongation and while Dialogue: 0,0:23:20.84,0:23:23.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is a correlation at the same time Dialogue: 0,0:23:23.76,0:23:26.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there are ropes with high Dynamic Dialogue: 0,0:23:26.12,0:23:29.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,elongation but low static and there are Dialogue: 0,0:23:29.08,0:23:32.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes with high static elongation but Dialogue: 0,0:23:32.12,0:23:33.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,low Dialogue: 0,0:23:33.28,0:23:37.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Dynamic interesting and actually what it Dialogue: 0,0:23:37.36,0:23:40.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is really interesting to see is this Dialogue: 0,0:23:40.80,0:23:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one that wasn't there 20 cm maybe 15 cm Dialogue: 0,0:23:46.48,0:23:50.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah of just you know elongated rope now Dialogue: 0,0:23:50.80,0:23:53.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we have a 5 minute waiting time and a Dialogue: 0,0:23:53.56,0:23:56.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit of this elongation will go Dialogue: 0,0:23:56.04,0:24:01.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,back into place mhm but uh some part uh Dialogue: 0,0:24:01.52,0:24:04.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will stay let's say stressed forever now Dialogue: 0,0:24:04.48,0:24:06.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the second parameter we got from the Dialogue: 0,0:24:06.44,0:24:09.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,first drop is the impact Force which Dialogue: 0,0:24:09.80,0:24:12.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,according to the standard should not Dialogue: 0,0:24:12.16,0:24:15.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,exceed 12 kons but most ropes nowadays Dialogue: 0,0:24:15.68,0:24:19.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be between 7 and 1 half to 9 kons Dialogue: 0,0:24:19.36,0:24:22.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,anyways however Bill stood out with a Dialogue: 0,0:24:22.28,0:24:25.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,lot of low impact ropes so I was Dialogue: 0,0:24:25.28,0:24:29.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wondering why and the answer Bec visible Dialogue: 0,0:24:29.24,0:24:33.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,once I plot elongation versus impact Dialogue: 0,0:24:33.16,0:24:35.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Force turns out they make much Dialogue: 0,0:24:35.68,0:24:38.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stretchier ropes so if you make a rope Dialogue: 0,0:24:38.64,0:24:40.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which stretches more obviously that Dialogue: 0,0:24:40.84,0:24:44.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,helps to reduce the impact Force however Dialogue: 0,0:24:44.04,0:24:46.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as I already explained more stretch is Dialogue: 0,0:24:46.68,0:24:49.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not always better so a perfect rope Dialogue: 0,0:24:49.44,0:24:52.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,should minimize both elongation and the Dialogue: 0,0:24:52.40,0:24:55.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impact Force now since I have this huge Dialogue: 0,0:24:55.28,0:24:58.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,database of rope specs I got curious so Dialogue: 0,0:24:58.56,0:25:00.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which ropes do have the lowest Dialogue: 0,0:25:00.60,0:25:04.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,elongation and impact Force combined I Dialogue: 0,0:25:04.08,0:25:07.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,filtered out all super skinny and super Dialogue: 0,0:25:07.00,0:25:09.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,thick ropes since I don't like them and Dialogue: 0,0:25:09.60,0:25:11.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,voila a list of ropes with the best Dialogue: 0,0:25:11.88,0:25:14.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Dynamic properties on Dialogue: 0,0:25:14.60,0:25:16.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,paper now are you going to feel the Dialogue: 0,0:25:16.84,0:25:21.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,difference if your rope is 10 to 20% Dialogue: 0,0:25:21.48,0:25:24.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,softer would be interesting to do maybe Dialogue: 0,0:25:24.04,0:25:26.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some human testing to figure out but the Dialogue: 0,0:25:26.76,0:25:29.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,big elephant in the crack is that all of Dialogue: 0,0:25:29.44,0:25:31.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,those specs are taken from the first Dialogue: 0,0:25:31.84,0:25:34.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fall only who knows how all of these Dialogue: 0,0:25:34.80,0:25:36.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,ropes are going to perform after Dialogue: 0,0:25:36.60,0:25:39.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hundreds of Falls maybe softer ropes are Dialogue: 0,0:25:39.80,0:25:41.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to lose their Dynamic properties Dialogue: 0,0:25:41.80,0:25:44.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even faster unfortunately at the moment Dialogue: 0,0:25:44.56,0:25:46.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is nothing in the standards that Dialogue: 0,0:25:46.64,0:25:49.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would test long-term performance of Dialogue: 0,0:25:49.28,0:25:52.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing ropes which is Dialogue: 0,0:25:52.12,0:25:54.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sad so Dialogue: 0,0:25:54.92,0:25:58.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,UAA but let's continue with our tests Dialogue: 0,0:25:58.40,0:26:02.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,after five minutes rest we have another Dialogue: 0,0:26:05.40,0:26:08.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,drop and this rest drop process is Dialogue: 0,0:26:08.92,0:26:12.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,repeated until the Rope finally breaks Dialogue: 0,0:26:12.40,0:26:14.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you already see this is like a super Dialogue: 0,0:26:14.44,0:26:16.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,harsh condition this is something that Dialogue: 0,0:26:16.80,0:26:20.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even in reality is hard to replicate and Dialogue: 0,0:26:20.84,0:26:23.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then in this s scenario we do this drop Dialogue: 0,0:26:23.60,0:26:26.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,over and over again only with a break of Dialogue: 0,0:26:26.12,0:26:28.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,5 minutes in between drops so the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:26:28.60,0:26:31.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,doesn't really have time to recover and Dialogue: 0,0:26:31.36,0:26:34.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what you also need to think about that Dialogue: 0,0:26:34.04,0:26:36.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're dropping into the exact same Dialogue: 0,0:26:36.80,0:26:39.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,position each each time so the number of Dialogue: 0,0:26:39.76,0:26:41.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how many of these false the rope with Dialogue: 0,0:26:41.56,0:26:43.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,stood is written on the packaging and Dialogue: 0,0:26:43.80,0:26:46.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that number is there mainly to confuse Dialogue: 0,0:26:46.12,0:26:48.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the new climbers into thinking that you Dialogue: 0,0:26:48.72,0:26:52.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,can only fall for let's say five FS but Dialogue: 0,0:26:52.28,0:26:54.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in reality we never achieve such hard Dialogue: 0,0:26:54.68,0:26:57.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Falls and you can fall for hundreds of Dialogue: 0,0:26:57.28,0:26:59.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,times before the ends of your Rob starts Dialogue: 0,0:26:59.68,0:27:02.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to wear down also while on average fer Dialogue: 0,0:27:02.92,0:27:06.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,robes do have higher UIA full rating Dialogue: 0,0:27:06.20,0:27:08.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some brands use bare minimum of five Dialogue: 0,0:27:08.52,0:27:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Falls even for their beefy ropes so as Dialogue: 0,0:27:12.24,0:27:15.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it stands for now this fall rating is Dialogue: 0,0:27:15.12,0:27:18.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only an indicator that your rope is safe Dialogue: 0,0:27:18.60,0:27:22.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rather than how long is it going to be Dialogue: 0,0:27:22.24,0:27:26.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,safe next test uiaa water test same Dialogue: 0,0:27:26.60,0:27:28.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,setup as before for the shift slippage Dialogue: 0,0:27:28.52,0:27:30.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same machine the only thing that we're Dialogue: 0,0:27:30.04,0:27:32.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,going to change here is that we're Dialogue: 0,0:27:32.04,0:27:33.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,putting new bolts every single sample Dialogue: 0,0:27:33.88,0:27:36.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we do so it's a onetime use product Dialogue: 0,0:27:36.84,0:27:39.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,unfortunately not very sustainable but Dialogue: 0,0:27:39.48,0:27:41.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you wouldn't do it the inside of the Dialogue: 0,0:27:41.64,0:27:43.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bolts would change over time because of Dialogue: 0,0:27:43.32,0:27:45.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the abration of the Rope so these are Dialogue: 0,0:27:45.08,0:27:47.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,some of the the used ones so it's full Dialogue: 0,0:27:47.16,0:27:50.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of fibers so the Rope goes through the Dialogue: 0,0:27:50.08,0:27:52.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,bolt yes and then as before you have Dialogue: 0,0:27:52.88,0:27:55.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,three bolts one gets pulled down this Dialogue: 0,0:27:55.76,0:27:57.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one gets pulled this way and this one Dialogue: 0,0:27:57.76,0:27:59.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gets pulled this way one goes that way Dialogue: 0,0:27:59.88,0:28:01.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,one goes that way and one go this one Dialogue: 0,0:28:01.60,0:28:04.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,goes down so now you and I have to pull Dialogue: 0,0:28:04.28,0:28:06.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this back and forth oh and and me as Dialogue: 0,0:28:06.44,0:28:08.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,well yeah of course how do you do this Dialogue: 0,0:28:08.40,0:28:11.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,alone I just run back and forth so I Dialogue: 0,0:28:11.16,0:28:14.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pull yeah oh W try to keep it as level Dialogue: 0,0:28:14.92,0:28:18.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as possible stop and now follow Dialogue: 0,0:28:18.84,0:28:20.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,me Dialogue: 0,0:28:20.48,0:28:24.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah this is a warm up for Dialogue: 0,0:28:24.60,0:28:30.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,climbing know what would be funny m Dialogue: 0,0:28:31.65,0:28:34.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Laughter] Dialogue: 0,0:28:34.36,0:28:36.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I expected Dialogue: 0,0:28:36.56,0:28:40.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it so now we have more fluffy rope yeah Dialogue: 0,0:28:40.48,0:28:42.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we do this to simulate a a rope in Dialogue: 0,0:28:42.92,0:28:45.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,normal use we do not want to do this Dialogue: 0,0:28:45.20,0:28:47.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,water test on a brand new rope because Dialogue: 0,0:28:47.48,0:28:50.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it would not be Dialogue: 0,0:28:50.16,0:28:54.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,realistic and then oh the fumes are Dialogue: 0,0:28:54.08,0:28:58.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,delicious now 24 hours 23 Dialogue: 0,0:28:58.88,0:29:01.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,50% humidity another time sensitive Dialogue: 0,0:29:01.64,0:29:04.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Endeavor yes so now I'm going to take a Dialogue: 0,0:29:04.84,0:29:08.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sample the one you and I prepared Dialogue: 0,0:29:12.17,0:29:14.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:29:14.24,0:29:17.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yesterday let's Dialogue: 0,0:29:19.24,0:29:23.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,go basically it is important to to be Dialogue: 0,0:29:23.08,0:29:30.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,fast on this one okay so put my C in Dialogue: 0,0:29:30.80,0:29:32.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I make sure that there's water Dialogue: 0,0:29:32.36,0:29:36.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,running on top of it now I start my time Dialogue: 0,0:29:36.76,0:29:40.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm checking the water flow per minute Dialogue: 0,0:29:40.56,0:29:43.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so it is not submerging the Rope Dialogue: 0,0:29:43.40,0:29:46.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,completely under water 2 L per minute Dialogue: 0,0:29:46.60,0:29:49.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,plus - 02 and then the water is running Dialogue: 0,0:29:49.40,0:29:52.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on top of our fuzzy prepared rope and Dialogue: 0,0:29:52.72,0:29:54.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you see here it's really important that Dialogue: 0,0:29:54.08,0:29:56.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,your ends are sealed otherwise the water Dialogue: 0,0:29:56.56,0:29:59.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will just you know go in Dialogue: 0,0:29:59.04,0:30:03.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,rather than stay outside with a dry Dialogue: 0,0:30:03.08,0:30:05.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,treatment it looks like the end of the Dialogue: 0,0:30:05.52,0:30:07.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope is pissing a little bit yeah a Dialogue: 0,0:30:07.32,0:30:09.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,little bit and it's going to take now 15 Dialogue: 0,0:30:09.60,0:30:11.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,minutes so we can 15 minutes we can go Dialogue: 0,0:30:11.76,0:30:13.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for a Dialogue: 0,0:30:13.40,0:30:16.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,coffee okay now our 15 minutes are done Dialogue: 0,0:30:16.12,0:30:20.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I need to take it off place here and Dialogue: 0,0:30:20.16,0:30:23.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just drop Dialogue: 0,0:30:23.24,0:30:26.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it that is funny three times that is Dialogue: 0,0:30:26.84,0:30:29.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,very funny change Dialogue: 0,0:30:31.04,0:30:32.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,do the Dialogue: 0,0:30:32.36,0:30:37.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,same on the other side now I place it Dialogue: 0,0:30:37.72,0:30:41.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here and now we it's time to weigh it so Dialogue: 0,0:30:41.08,0:30:44.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what are you aiming for we usually are Dialogue: 0,0:30:44.20,0:30:47.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,around 1% maybe a bit less to claim that Dialogue: 0,0:30:47.76,0:30:50.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's a dry rope when you do this Dialogue: 0,0:30:50.96,0:30:54.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,test she's good at this what she's Dialogue: 0,0:30:54.40,0:30:56.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,really good at this are we ready to go Dialogue: 0,0:30:56.48,0:30:58.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the weekend Dialogue: 0,0:30:58.44,0:31:00.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are we ready to go to the weekend we're Dialogue: 0,0:31:00.24,0:31:04.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,talking about the dry limits sorry so Dialogue: 0,0:31:04.32,0:31:07.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,yeah usually to declare that your Dialogue: 0,0:31:07.64,0:31:10.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,water now while digging through all the Dialogue: 0,0:31:10.32,0:31:12.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,different manufacturer websites I found Dialogue: 0,0:31:12.68,0:31:15.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out that there are a lot of different Dialogue: 0,0:31:15.04,0:31:18.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dry treatments with different labels Dialogue: 0,0:31:18.40,0:31:20.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sometimes the treatments are added only Dialogue: 0,0:31:20.44,0:31:23.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to the Shi sometimes both the sheath and Dialogue: 0,0:31:23.08,0:31:25.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the cor and sometimes they are better Dialogue: 0,0:31:25.24,0:31:29.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for our planet and labeled as PF F C3 Dialogue: 0,0:31:29.00,0:31:31.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but just because the Rope is treated Dialogue: 0,0:31:31.16,0:31:33.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,with something it doesn't mean that it's Dialogue: 0,0:31:33.84,0:31:37.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,past UIA water repellent test to have Dialogue: 0,0:31:37.92,0:31:41.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,UIA water repellent label the Rope needs Dialogue: 0,0:31:41.16,0:31:44.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to absorb less than 5% of water and if Dialogue: 0,0:31:44.72,0:31:46.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you want to learn more about what Dialogue: 0,0:31:46.68,0:31:48.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,happens when the water penetrates the Dialogue: 0,0:31:48.72,0:31:51.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope I have made a video showing exactly Dialogue: 0,0:31:51.52,0:31:55.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that both in theory and in Dialogue: 0,0:31:56.08,0:31:59.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,experiments [ __ ] there's the lad coming Dialogue: 0,0:31:59.12,0:32:02.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out and as a side note dry treatment not Dialogue: 0,0:32:02.36,0:32:05.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,only blocks the water from entering but Dialogue: 0,0:32:05.24,0:32:08.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,also the dust which can greatly increase Dialogue: 0,0:32:08.76,0:32:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the lifespan of the Rope we also tried Dialogue: 0,0:32:11.28,0:32:14.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,washing the rope and see if that helps Dialogue: 0,0:32:14.12,0:32:16.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so yeah that's another Shameless plug of Dialogue: 0,0:32:16.84,0:32:19.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my previous videos what the Dialogue: 0,0:32:19.96,0:32:23.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hell yeah she's using the Dialogue: 0,0:32:23.76,0:32:27.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,heels hi Mobility people hi Mobility you Dialogue: 0,0:32:27.24,0:32:30.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,have shorter legs hey no no leg short Dialogue: 0,0:32:30.68,0:32:32.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,leg Dialogue: 0,0:32:33.56,0:32:36.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,shaving you can't even put your legs on Dialogue: 0,0:32:36.24,0:32:38.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the Dialogue: 0,0:32:38.63,0:32:41.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,[Music] Dialogue: 0,0:32:41.12,0:32:43.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pedals Dialogue: 0,0:32:43.76,0:32:47.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wo I just did a wheelie I'm just doing a Dialogue: 0,0:32:47.68,0:32:50.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wheelie do this I need to Le more Dialogue: 0,0:32:50.76,0:32:52.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,forward so I Dialogue: 0,0:32:52.64,0:32:56.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,didn't I'm going I'm going I'm going Dialogue: 0,0:32:56.12,0:32:59.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he's going so sometimes I get U Dialogue: 0,0:32:59.56,0:33:02.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,impressed by the amount of people who Dialogue: 0,0:33:02.04,0:33:04.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,watch my videos when I'm making and I'm Dialogue: 0,0:33:04.24,0:33:06.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,filming I'm just here alone and it's so Dialogue: 0,0:33:06.96,0:33:09.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,hard to imagine so many of you watching Dialogue: 0,0:33:09.80,0:33:13.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this so thank you I appreciate it it's Dialogue: 0,0:33:13.64,0:33:16.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,super nice and thank you for mammut for Dialogue: 0,0:33:16.72,0:33:21.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sharing all of these geeky topics with Dialogue: 0,0:33:23.32,0:33:26.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,us yeah