1 00:00:00,199 --> 00:00:02,960 ah hello curious human I don't know if 2 00:00:02,960 --> 00:00:04,880 you ever looked into the technical 3 00:00:04,880 --> 00:00:07,520 specifications of a climbing rope but it 4 00:00:07,520 --> 00:00:10,440 does have a lot of mysterious numbers 5 00:00:10,440 --> 00:00:12,320 that I think are there just to confuse 6 00:00:12,320 --> 00:00:14,679 the new climbers and then it has a lot 7 00:00:14,679 --> 00:00:17,680 of seemingly obvious things like 8 00:00:17,680 --> 00:00:21,680 diameter length weight however if you 9 00:00:21,680 --> 00:00:24,119 try to measure them and I have tried 10 00:00:24,119 --> 00:00:26,840 that many times you will never get the 11 00:00:26,840 --> 00:00:30,080 numbers that are declared so I had two 12 00:00:30,080 --> 00:00:32,480 goals for this video the first one was 13 00:00:32,480 --> 00:00:35,200 to visit my nerdy friends at mamut 14 00:00:35,200 --> 00:00:37,520 welcome to the world of Destruction 15 00:00:37,520 --> 00:00:39,760 welcome to the world of Destruction she 16 00:00:39,760 --> 00:00:42,640 says and see how every parameter is 17 00:00:42,640 --> 00:00:45,320 measured in the lab and what those 18 00:00:45,320 --> 00:00:48,160 numbers actually mean and then I got 19 00:00:48,160 --> 00:00:50,360 curious is there any difference between 20 00:00:50,360 --> 00:00:52,879 different ropes meaning if I take 9.5 21 00:00:52,879 --> 00:00:55,640 from one brand and then I would take 9.5 22 00:00:55,640 --> 00:00:58,800 rope from the other brand will there be 23 00:00:58,800 --> 00:01:00,840 any difference in technical 24 00:01:00,840 --> 00:01:03,039 specifications or it's pretty much all 25 00:01:03,039 --> 00:01:05,760 the same nowadays so I ended up scraping 26 00:01:05,760 --> 00:01:07,159 the internet and collecting 27 00:01:07,159 --> 00:01:09,280 specifications of hundreds of climbing 28 00:01:09,280 --> 00:01:11,159 ropes and then building correlation 29 00:01:11,159 --> 00:01:13,280 charts between different 30 00:01:13,280 --> 00:01:16,840 parameters so yeah all with the goal to 31 00:01:16,840 --> 00:01:20,439 make you a bit of a climbing rope nerd 32 00:01:20,439 --> 00:01:21,960 or nerd 33 00:01:21,960 --> 00:01:26,520 this the Holy Bible the Holy Bible 34 00:01:26,520 --> 00:01:29,520 standards 35 00:01:30,320 --> 00:01:32,119 so you follow the Bible when you do the 36 00:01:32,119 --> 00:01:35,200 testing yes this is actually like um 37 00:01:35,200 --> 00:01:38,399 short version short version yes you even 38 00:01:38,399 --> 00:01:42,640 add underscores like so geeky yeah 39 00:01:42,640 --> 00:01:45,320 that's instead of space he just adds 40 00:01:45,320 --> 00:01:48,560 underscore Dash so I have here a classic 41 00:01:48,560 --> 00:01:50,680 report an internal report in which we 42 00:01:50,680 --> 00:01:52,799 have to provide numbers for a 43 00:01:52,799 --> 00:01:55,040 construction diameter the weight of the 44 00:01:55,040 --> 00:01:56,920 Corp and the weight for the sheath and 45 00:01:56,920 --> 00:01:58,399 then of course we we sum it up and then 46 00:01:58,399 --> 00:02:01,640 we get the weight per per gr per meters 47 00:02:01,640 --> 00:02:03,280 okay you're overloading me already let's 48 00:02:03,280 --> 00:02:06,079 go one by one one by one construction 49 00:02:06,079 --> 00:02:09,399 test construction test what is that so 50 00:02:09,399 --> 00:02:11,920 construction is a number that will be 51 00:02:11,920 --> 00:02:15,560 tested that the consumer will never 52 00:02:15,560 --> 00:02:17,959 see just make a 53 00:02:17,959 --> 00:02:20,640 pric and then 54 00:02:20,640 --> 00:02:22,319 I 55 00:02:22,319 --> 00:02:26,920 slowly let the wait in so you just put 56 00:02:26,920 --> 00:02:29,599 now 10 kg 10 kg and then now we should 57 00:02:29,599 --> 00:02:31,280 wait for a minute but in the meantime I 58 00:02:31,280 --> 00:02:33,120 can explain you you say Okay I want to 59 00:02:33,120 --> 00:02:35,599 start from here then you follow a 60 00:02:35,599 --> 00:02:38,440 straight line you come back to the same 61 00:02:38,440 --> 00:02:41,120 pattern and you do this five 62 00:02:41,120 --> 00:02:46,440 times one two three and five certified 63 00:02:46,440 --> 00:02:49,599 ruler my minute is almost done so now I 64 00:02:49,599 --> 00:02:53,519 can take my measurement this is 17 cm my 65 00:02:53,519 --> 00:02:58,800 construction will be 17 cm divid 5 34 mm 66 00:02:58,800 --> 00:03:00,879 this means that 67 00:03:00,879 --> 00:03:03,760 every 34 mm we have a repetition in the 68 00:03:03,760 --> 00:03:06,920 in the pattern in the pattern exactly 69 00:03:06,920 --> 00:03:11,159 the smaller the size that means you have 70 00:03:11,159 --> 00:03:16,159 more material on the same surface area 71 00:03:16,159 --> 00:03:18,080 so if you have more material on the same 72 00:03:18,080 --> 00:03:21,120 surface area it gets more 73 00:03:21,120 --> 00:03:25,080 stiff if it's more spread out that means 74 00:03:25,080 --> 00:03:29,360 the angle of the twins is a little bit 75 00:03:29,360 --> 00:03:31,799 more steep mhm then you have less 76 00:03:31,799 --> 00:03:34,280 material on the same surface area and 77 00:03:34,280 --> 00:03:37,760 then it's softer so are you aiming to 78 00:03:37,760 --> 00:03:41,080 have more material in the same or it's a 79 00:03:41,080 --> 00:03:43,319 balance that you're playing with you're 80 00:03:43,319 --> 00:03:45,480 trying to get the best hand feel for the 81 00:03:45,480 --> 00:03:47,640 Rope Mamud ropes for example are usually 82 00:03:47,640 --> 00:03:50,360 known to be a little bit stiffer so we 83 00:03:50,360 --> 00:03:53,000 know what kind um of construction we 84 00:03:53,000 --> 00:03:55,640 need to make in order to achieve this 85 00:03:55,640 --> 00:03:57,760 this is actually very interesting if you 86 00:03:57,760 --> 00:03:59,799 compare Dynamic ropes from different 87 00:03:59,799 --> 00:04:02,120 Brands you can feel that some of them 88 00:04:02,120 --> 00:04:04,799 can be very soft While others can be 89 00:04:04,799 --> 00:04:07,959 much stiffer unfortunately as Adriana 90 00:04:07,959 --> 00:04:11,000 said I was not able to find any Brands 91 00:04:11,000 --> 00:04:13,519 listing construction on their data 92 00:04:13,519 --> 00:04:16,320 sheets pel does have a property named 93 00:04:16,320 --> 00:04:18,919 construction but what they actually list 94 00:04:18,919 --> 00:04:21,600 is the number of bobbins that were used 95 00:04:21,600 --> 00:04:23,759 in the making of the Rope so it's a 96 00:04:23,759 --> 00:04:26,040 different parameter which is also very 97 00:04:26,040 --> 00:04:29,039 rare to find on specifications but the 98 00:04:29,039 --> 00:04:32,759 more B Robins used the smoother the Shi 99 00:04:32,759 --> 00:04:35,280 of the Rope is going to be the cubicles 100 00:04:35,280 --> 00:04:37,960 that make the Rope will be much smaller 101 00:04:37,960 --> 00:04:40,120 which creates less friction and should 102 00:04:40,120 --> 00:04:42,600 increase the durability of the Rope but 103 00:04:42,600 --> 00:04:44,560 back to the softness of the Rope 104 00:04:44,560 --> 00:04:49,000 personally I would like a uiaa soft test 105 00:04:49,000 --> 00:04:51,880 unfortunately currently we only have one 106 00:04:51,880 --> 00:04:55,560 test which is somewhat related next test 107 00:04:55,560 --> 00:04:58,120 next test it's called notability test 108 00:04:58,120 --> 00:05:00,199 it's part of the static rope test but we 109 00:05:00,199 --> 00:05:03,240 do it anyways even for our Dynamic ropes 110 00:05:03,240 --> 00:05:08,080 we have to do is make a simple overhand 111 00:05:09,400 --> 00:05:12,400 knot so they are both overhand knots 112 00:05:12,400 --> 00:05:14,280 they are opposite they're mirroring each 113 00:05:14,280 --> 00:05:19,560 other 10 kg let it sit 114 00:05:20,600 --> 00:05:24,080 gently for a 115 00:05:24,280 --> 00:05:28,720 minute we have this uh Harry Potter wand 116 00:05:28,720 --> 00:05:30,160 Harry Potter wand 117 00:05:30,160 --> 00:05:31,560 do you know any 118 00:05:31,560 --> 00:05:34,560 spells 119 00:05:35,639 --> 00:05:38,600 uh oh that would be useful for climbing 120 00:05:38,600 --> 00:05:40,759 yeah lift myself up to the next bolt 121 00:05:40,759 --> 00:05:44,360 then I gently take out I only leave the 122 00:05:44,360 --> 00:05:46,639 1 kilogram and now without putting 123 00:05:46,639 --> 00:05:49,360 pressure I need 124 00:05:49,360 --> 00:05:52,440 to make it go 125 00:05:52,440 --> 00:05:55,199 in so here is roughly 126 00:05:55,199 --> 00:05:59,759 seven here I go 127 00:06:03,639 --> 00:06:06,880 seven so notability is a ratio between 128 00:06:06,880 --> 00:06:10,360 rope diameter and magic wand penetration 129 00:06:10,360 --> 00:06:12,599 the smaller the number the softer the 130 00:06:12,599 --> 00:06:15,599 Rope is but it's rare to see 131 00:06:15,599 --> 00:06:17,919 manufacturers providing this number for 132 00:06:17,919 --> 00:06:20,800 dynamic ropes so if you are particular 133 00:06:20,800 --> 00:06:23,440 on how soft you want your rope to be 134 00:06:23,440 --> 00:06:26,039 unfortunately you will have to go out 135 00:06:26,039 --> 00:06:29,639 into the climbing shop and touch oh next 136 00:06:29,639 --> 00:06:32,199 one is my favorite one diameter diameter 137 00:06:32,199 --> 00:06:34,880 exactly I've tried to measure this so 138 00:06:34,880 --> 00:06:35,840 many 139 00:06:35,840 --> 00:06:38,840 times and it's a wild west when you 140 00:06:38,840 --> 00:06:43,639 measure it so show it how you arrive to 141 00:06:43,639 --> 00:06:47,720 9.5 okay so 9.5 9.8 I have to measure 142 00:06:47,720 --> 00:06:50,599 within one meter of sample of course 143 00:06:50,599 --> 00:06:54,000 there's always a tolerance now I get my 144 00:06:54,000 --> 00:06:57,800 caliper with the special flat edges oh 145 00:06:57,800 --> 00:07:00,879 it's a different caliper yeah 146 00:07:00,879 --> 00:07:03,319 now I have to take six measurements I'm 147 00:07:03,319 --> 00:07:06,879 not trying to squeeze to get my number 148 00:07:06,879 --> 00:07:09,840 but without putting pressure I need to 149 00:07:09,840 --> 00:07:13,759 go around and see where it's 150 00:07:15,280 --> 00:07:19,479 maximum it should be here 151 00:07:19,479 --> 00:07:23,280 10.03 and then I can turn 152 00:07:23,280 --> 00:07:27,440 90° 9.8 so you found the thickest point 153 00:07:27,440 --> 00:07:30,039 in that spot and the thinnest 154 00:07:30,039 --> 00:07:32,520 and you take the average of that 155 00:07:32,520 --> 00:07:35,039 yes then here I do the 156 00:07:35,039 --> 00:07:36,919 same 157 00:07:36,919 --> 00:07:39,000 9.84 + 158 00:07:39,000 --> 00:07:41,000 103 159 00:07:41,000 --> 00:07:44,919 9.82 so I divide everything by my six 160 00:07:44,919 --> 00:07:47,720 measurements then I get a 9.95 and what 161 00:07:47,720 --> 00:07:49,560 was it supposed to be 162 00:07:49,560 --> 00:07:53,240 9.8 so we are 163 00:07:53,240 --> 00:07:56,919 015 over yes so something to know is 164 00:07:56,919 --> 00:08:00,639 that by standard we have a 165 00:08:00,639 --> 00:08:04,479 0.2 um tolerance for the diameter so 166 00:08:04,479 --> 00:08:08,400 every rope I buy as a plus minus yeah to 167 00:08:08,400 --> 00:08:10,800 factor in the various steps of 168 00:08:10,800 --> 00:08:13,280 production which you cannot control down 169 00:08:13,280 --> 00:08:16,840 to the 0 mm so basically whatever goes 170 00:08:16,840 --> 00:08:21,440 on the package is plusus 0.2 mm anyway 171 00:08:21,440 --> 00:08:25,479 measured in preloaded way exactly so 172 00:08:25,479 --> 00:08:27,599 that's why pretty much every time I try 173 00:08:27,599 --> 00:08:31,000 to measure it is way more more mhm so no 174 00:08:31,000 --> 00:08:34,440 point in doing this at home well now now 175 00:08:34,440 --> 00:08:36,880 we know now now you know how yes but 176 00:08:36,880 --> 00:08:39,039 also all the samples would need to be 177 00:08:39,039 --> 00:08:41,719 climatized at a certain temperature and 178 00:08:41,719 --> 00:08:44,920 humidity percentage so we put it in that 179 00:08:44,920 --> 00:08:47,640 big cabinet over there which keeps 180 00:08:47,640 --> 00:08:51,440 23° and 50% humidity and technically 181 00:08:51,440 --> 00:08:53,279 this test has to be done within a 182 00:08:53,279 --> 00:08:56,240 certain time upon removal 1 minute to 183 00:08:56,240 --> 00:08:58,760 hang the 10 kg then within 1 minute you 184 00:08:58,760 --> 00:09:00,959 had to measure the construction within 185 00:09:00,959 --> 00:09:02,600 another minute you had to measure the 186 00:09:02,600 --> 00:09:04,560 diameter so you're running from there to 187 00:09:04,560 --> 00:09:07,480 here yeah I try to be fast okay and you 188 00:09:07,480 --> 00:09:09,720 know what always fascinates me how such 189 00:09:09,720 --> 00:09:12,399 a small change can make such a big 190 00:09:12,399 --> 00:09:15,800 difference if we compare 9.0 rope 191 00:09:15,800 --> 00:09:19,440 against 9.5 rope you will feel a big 192 00:09:19,440 --> 00:09:21,959 difference however at the same time it's 193 00:09:21,959 --> 00:09:26,720 only half a millim difference now we can 194 00:09:26,720 --> 00:09:29,839 do the weight per meter don't need this 195 00:09:29,839 --> 00:09:32,120 I'm going to cut on the same side of the 196 00:09:32,120 --> 00:09:34,399 pin I put in just to factor in that bit 197 00:09:34,399 --> 00:09:36,240 of 198 00:09:36,240 --> 00:09:40,519 H oh okay and also 199 00:09:42,399 --> 00:09:46,399 here so this is 1 M if you put 10 kilog 200 00:09:46,399 --> 00:09:50,480 yes and then here what we do is we take 201 00:09:50,480 --> 00:09:54,040 the core out and measure it and also as 202 00:09:54,040 --> 00:09:56,160 you can see this is another really 203 00:09:56,160 --> 00:09:59,440 precise kill if I go like this 204 00:09:59,440 --> 00:10:02,200 it changes so basically just little bit 205 00:10:02,200 --> 00:10:05,519 of wind does change the reading yes 206 00:10:05,519 --> 00:10:07,600 exactly now I 207 00:10:07,600 --> 00:10:11,399 do the sheath weight now in rope 208 00:10:11,399 --> 00:10:13,480 specifications you will always find 209 00:10:13,480 --> 00:10:16,959 combined weight per meter and shift 210 00:10:16,959 --> 00:10:19,279 percentage however if you want to know 211 00:10:19,279 --> 00:10:21,440 the total weight of your rope 212 00:10:21,440 --> 00:10:24,200 multiplying weight per meter by the 213 00:10:24,200 --> 00:10:27,399 meters which seems obvious is not going 214 00:10:27,399 --> 00:10:30,000 to be accurate at all so first as you 215 00:10:30,000 --> 00:10:33,279 saw their meter is taken from the loaded 216 00:10:33,279 --> 00:10:36,519 rope but also manufacturers Package 2 to 217 00:10:36,519 --> 00:10:39,760 3% more length of the Rope than what 218 00:10:39,760 --> 00:10:42,000 they declare on the package and that's 219 00:10:42,000 --> 00:10:44,240 done because ropes have a tendency to 220 00:10:44,240 --> 00:10:47,519 shrink over time so manufacturers are 221 00:10:47,519 --> 00:10:51,480 being nice to us by giving more of the 222 00:10:51,480 --> 00:10:53,680 Rope now obviously there is a clear 223 00:10:53,680 --> 00:10:55,920 correlation between the diameter of the 224 00:10:55,920 --> 00:10:58,360 rope and the weight but what is 225 00:10:58,360 --> 00:11:00,760 interesting is is that the variance can 226 00:11:00,760 --> 00:11:03,720 still be very big for example there are 227 00:11:03,720 --> 00:11:07,320 10 mm ropes that are lighter than some 228 00:11:07,320 --> 00:11:11,360 of 9.5 ropes now personally I'm not a 229 00:11:11,360 --> 00:11:13,600 big fan of chasing the lightest and 230 00:11:13,600 --> 00:11:16,399 smallest in everything but if the weight 231 00:11:16,399 --> 00:11:18,560 is a big factor for you you might be 232 00:11:18,560 --> 00:11:21,440 entertained to know that multiple Brands 233 00:11:21,440 --> 00:11:24,000 claim to have the lightest double rope 234 00:11:24,000 --> 00:11:27,519 on the market next test next test shift 235 00:11:27,519 --> 00:11:32,360 slippage shift so now exactly so this is 236 00:11:32,360 --> 00:11:35,000 your favorite room in summer for sure 237 00:11:35,000 --> 00:11:38,200 when it's really hot so now this end is 238 00:11:38,200 --> 00:11:41,000 open and this one is sealed cuz I cut it 239 00:11:41,000 --> 00:11:42,760 with the heat cutter now I can explain 240 00:11:42,760 --> 00:11:45,480 you what this 241 00:11:45,959 --> 00:11:49,440 is exactly this very simple let's call 242 00:11:49,440 --> 00:11:52,440 it machine is defined uh this machine is 243 00:11:52,440 --> 00:11:53,320 called 244 00:11:53,320 --> 00:11:55,959 machine no it's called shift slippage 245 00:11:55,959 --> 00:12:00,320 machine oh sh shift shift she slippage 246 00:12:00,320 --> 00:12:02,399 machine exactly so what we're going to 247 00:12:02,399 --> 00:12:05,399 do here we have this uh three 5 kilogram 248 00:12:05,399 --> 00:12:08,360 weights and we're going to engage them 249 00:12:08,360 --> 00:12:10,399 so now this one is pulling this one is 250 00:12:10,399 --> 00:12:13,279 pulling and this one is pulling so now 251 00:12:13,279 --> 00:12:17,480 in here we have three standardized bolts 252 00:12:17,480 --> 00:12:19,320 and they're pulling on three Direction 253 00:12:19,320 --> 00:12:21,160 different directions so one is pulling 254 00:12:21,160 --> 00:12:23,480 this way this one is pulling this way 255 00:12:23,480 --> 00:12:26,000 this one is pulling down mhm what I have 256 00:12:26,000 --> 00:12:29,240 to do I have to pull it until the end 257 00:12:29,240 --> 00:12:31,680 comes within this marks that's why I 258 00:12:31,680 --> 00:12:34,440 have my uh my mirror here so I can check 259 00:12:34,440 --> 00:12:36,800 so I can 260 00:12:36,800 --> 00:12:39,399 start and it has to be a continuous 261 00:12:39,399 --> 00:12:42,399 speed and I'm 262 00:12:42,399 --> 00:12:46,240 there so you pulled the rope with some 263 00:12:46,240 --> 00:12:49,920 pressure from three sides towards the 264 00:12:49,920 --> 00:12:52,639 Rope 265 00:12:52,639 --> 00:12:56,560 yes and now you reset and pulling again 266 00:12:56,560 --> 00:13:01,120 yes and I have to do this five times 267 00:13:03,399 --> 00:13:07,560 so it's basically rope squeezer yeah 268 00:13:07,560 --> 00:13:09,880 number 269 00:13:09,880 --> 00:13:12,320 five as you see I've never touched this 270 00:13:12,320 --> 00:13:14,600 part right I was always pulling and 271 00:13:14,600 --> 00:13:17,199 pushing from this part now I slide it 272 00:13:17,199 --> 00:13:18,120 back 273 00:13:18,120 --> 00:13:20,639 again you're talking like a magician you 274 00:13:20,639 --> 00:13:23,839 know of course Pini as you see nothing 275 00:13:23,839 --> 00:13:26,440 happens here and now look Poof 276 00:13:26,440 --> 00:13:29,720 Magic now you can actually see 277 00:13:29,720 --> 00:13:33,320 here exactly where we had our Mark the 278 00:13:33,320 --> 00:13:35,560 shei hasn't moved he really sounds like 279 00:13:35,560 --> 00:13:36,839 a magician 280 00:13:36,839 --> 00:13:40,760 now you want some some poof trick number 281 00:13:40,760 --> 00:13:43,279 one I know this is actually something I 282 00:13:43,279 --> 00:13:46,360 I really really like uh shift slip is 283 00:13:46,360 --> 00:13:49,240 zero that's why we declare zero so what 284 00:13:49,240 --> 00:13:54,959 you could expect usually is to have your 285 00:13:54,959 --> 00:13:58,560 core to be now it's just out and then 286 00:13:58,560 --> 00:14:01,800 you would have to measure like this this 287 00:14:01,800 --> 00:14:06,000 will be 6.77 mm and this we will call 288 00:14:06,000 --> 00:14:09,959 minus 6.7 cuz it goes out so what I had 289 00:14:09,959 --> 00:14:12,720 happened where I cut the rope even 290 00:14:12,720 --> 00:14:14,839 though I burn the end but maybe I don't 291 00:14:14,839 --> 00:14:17,959 burn it very well and I go climbing and 292 00:14:17,959 --> 00:14:20,720 sometimes some of the core starts coming 293 00:14:20,720 --> 00:14:25,199 out is this related to this yes so with 294 00:14:25,199 --> 00:14:27,000 this rope which is declared as zero 295 00:14:27,000 --> 00:14:30,480 sheep slippage the core would not start 296 00:14:30,480 --> 00:14:32,880 coming out of the if one end is sealed 297 00:14:32,880 --> 00:14:36,240 if one end is sealed and if both ends 298 00:14:36,240 --> 00:14:39,519 were cut then the core is free to move 299 00:14:39,519 --> 00:14:41,680 it's like a snake in a tube it just goes 300 00:14:41,680 --> 00:14:43,440 back and forth if you wants I've done 301 00:14:43,440 --> 00:14:45,600 this many times I still sometimes find 302 00:14:45,600 --> 00:14:48,079 it difficult to burn the end well you 303 00:14:48,079 --> 00:14:50,160 might burn a little bit and it's there 304 00:14:50,160 --> 00:14:52,360 is still visibly big holes then you 305 00:14:52,360 --> 00:14:54,399 start burning more then it all goes on 306 00:14:54,399 --> 00:14:57,880 fire and then the big Clump happens well 307 00:14:57,880 --> 00:15:00,600 what I do sometimes times but this is 308 00:15:00,600 --> 00:15:03,079 you hit the knife no I I use I use a 309 00:15:03,079 --> 00:15:04,720 stove you make it really hot and then 310 00:15:04,720 --> 00:15:06,920 try to tension it as much as much as 311 00:15:06,920 --> 00:15:10,759 possible and use bars going through the 312 00:15:10,759 --> 00:15:13,040 you know the gas burning use that one as 313 00:15:13,040 --> 00:15:16,880 a knife oh so it it it will look like 314 00:15:16,880 --> 00:15:20,320 this and then you have that fume of 315 00:15:20,320 --> 00:15:23,360 plastic coming out of your stove for how 316 00:15:23,360 --> 00:15:26,399 many days that's not safe maybe because 317 00:15:26,399 --> 00:15:28,399 you're burning plastic but this is not a 318 00:15:28,399 --> 00:15:31,759 m Cor recommendation this is a a 319 00:15:31,759 --> 00:15:33,839 recommendation okay now when it comes to 320 00:15:33,839 --> 00:15:36,839 shift slippage unfortunately not all the 321 00:15:36,839 --> 00:15:39,360 brands list that information on their 322 00:15:39,360 --> 00:15:42,360 websites and in some cases they list 323 00:15:42,360 --> 00:15:44,639 only on some of the ropes so if it's 324 00:15:44,639 --> 00:15:47,000 zero they list zero if it's not zero 325 00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:49,120 then who knows and according to the 326 00:15:49,120 --> 00:15:51,079 standard this information should be on 327 00:15:51,079 --> 00:15:53,600 the packaging however if you're shopping 328 00:15:53,600 --> 00:15:57,079 online then good luck knowing now we 329 00:15:57,079 --> 00:15:59,120 have to do static elongation so these 330 00:15:59,120 --> 00:16:01,959 are reflected tapes and I'm putting it 331 00:16:01,959 --> 00:16:05,000 just a little bit above my clamps one at 332 00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:09,720 the bottom one here at the top now sorry 333 00:16:09,720 --> 00:16:12,639 I go in only while the machine is not 334 00:16:12,639 --> 00:16:15,560 running just because I have to play with 335 00:16:15,560 --> 00:16:20,040 lasers of course exactly I can 336 00:16:20,759 --> 00:16:23,160 start only while the machine is not 337 00:16:23,160 --> 00:16:24,440 running 338 00:16:24,440 --> 00:16:27,560 instead so it went into a pre-tension 339 00:16:27,560 --> 00:16:30,480 phase and now I need to check that the 340 00:16:30,480 --> 00:16:34,199 laser is actually in place so I read the 341 00:16:34,199 --> 00:16:35,639 first one because you saw it stopped and 342 00:16:35,639 --> 00:16:38,759 beep and blinked now we'll reach the top 343 00:16:38,759 --> 00:16:41,759 one and blink 344 00:16:44,880 --> 00:16:47,880 again let's just close this 345 00:16:47,880 --> 00:16:50,839 one so as you can see the the lasers are 346 00:16:50,839 --> 00:16:53,680 going up ah so your markers are going up 347 00:16:53,680 --> 00:16:55,360 and the lasers keep following them 348 00:16:55,360 --> 00:16:58,480 exactly and we have our holding time of 349 00:16:58,480 --> 00:17:01,240 3 minutes and it keeps holding exactly 350 00:17:01,240 --> 00:17:03,880 80 kg as the Rope is relaxing it keeps 351 00:17:03,880 --> 00:17:06,360 pulling more that's why you can see here 352 00:17:06,360 --> 00:17:09,480 D L elongation of the sample compared to 353 00:17:09,480 --> 00:17:11,520 the starting position yeah see it keeps 354 00:17:11,520 --> 00:17:14,079 increasing so if I stand here and the 355 00:17:14,079 --> 00:17:15,799 laser misses the marker it shines 356 00:17:15,799 --> 00:17:18,280 straight to my eyes yeah and then you 357 00:17:18,280 --> 00:17:21,319 get to stay home from 358 00:17:22,600 --> 00:17:26,039 work I just smiling saying 359 00:17:26,039 --> 00:17:29,360 thisas okay so machine completely 360 00:17:29,360 --> 00:17:32,760 relaxed yes and your lasers went down 361 00:17:32,760 --> 00:17:36,039 yes and you got the results 362 00:17:36,039 --> 00:17:38,919 5.71% so static elongation is basically 363 00:17:38,919 --> 00:17:41,600 imitating you sitting in the Rope or 364 00:17:41,600 --> 00:17:43,880 taking a top rope fall and for most 365 00:17:43,880 --> 00:17:47,360 dynamic ropes it's between 5 to 10% 366 00:17:47,360 --> 00:17:50,600 where 10% is the maximum allowed by the 367 00:17:50,600 --> 00:17:53,360 standards let's say you want to top rope 368 00:17:53,360 --> 00:17:56,760 a 30 m long route and the climber takes 369 00:17:56,760 --> 00:17:59,720 a fall close to the ground so so we have 370 00:17:59,720 --> 00:18:02,840 total 60 M of rope in the system Let's 371 00:18:02,840 --> 00:18:05,000 ignore all the potential zigzags 372 00:18:05,000 --> 00:18:07,120 friction and maybe slack and let's say 373 00:18:07,120 --> 00:18:09,919 that we are using a rope with 5% of 374 00:18:09,919 --> 00:18:12,840 static elongation so such Fall Would 375 00:18:12,840 --> 00:18:16,200 stretch the Rope for 3 m but if our 376 00:18:16,200 --> 00:18:19,440 static elongation would be closer to 10% 377 00:18:19,440 --> 00:18:22,640 then the fall or the stretch would be up 378 00:18:22,640 --> 00:18:25,880 to 6 M and that would be really bad for 379 00:18:25,880 --> 00:18:28,280 top roping with such rope at the same 380 00:18:28,280 --> 00:18:30,440 time it would also be a bad rope for 381 00:18:30,440 --> 00:18:32,679 projecting cuz every time you would pull 382 00:18:32,679 --> 00:18:34,679 on the Rope you would be just stretching 383 00:18:34,679 --> 00:18:37,000 it like a rubber band but I'm going to 384 00:18:37,000 --> 00:18:39,880 come back to this topic after we see how 385 00:18:39,880 --> 00:18:43,240 Dynamic elongation and impact force is 386 00:18:43,240 --> 00:18:46,960 measured so so yes welcome to the fancy 387 00:18:46,960 --> 00:18:49,480 drop tower exactly super fancy that it's 388 00:18:49,480 --> 00:18:52,120 all kind of automatic I see it's doing 389 00:18:52,120 --> 00:18:54,559 its thing and you're doing nothing yeah 390 00:18:54,559 --> 00:18:56,080 yeah yeah besides running up and down 391 00:18:56,080 --> 00:18:57,280 the 392 00:18:57,280 --> 00:19:00,320 stairs so now basically just went up 393 00:19:00,320 --> 00:19:03,159 checked all the positions now I have to 394 00:19:03,159 --> 00:19:04,799 tie in the 395 00:19:04,799 --> 00:19:09,720 sample secure it one two so there is no 396 00:19:09,720 --> 00:19:11,960 knot at this end 397 00:19:11,960 --> 00:19:14,840 no ah so it's friction but in the end 398 00:19:14,840 --> 00:19:17,840 there is still some kind of clamp yes 399 00:19:17,840 --> 00:19:19,320 and what we do here with these three 400 00:19:19,320 --> 00:19:22,360 turns is to not have the force of the 401 00:19:22,360 --> 00:19:25,480 Fall absorb here yeah it would break it 402 00:19:25,480 --> 00:19:26,919 that spot exactly it would just 403 00:19:26,919 --> 00:19:29,000 basically choke it and cut it so our 404 00:19:29,000 --> 00:19:31,840 goal here is to simulate a really high 405 00:19:31,840 --> 00:19:33,559 factor fall for example you're 406 00:19:33,559 --> 00:19:35,600 multipitch climbing and you start off 407 00:19:35,600 --> 00:19:37,120 you always you know back up at the 408 00:19:37,120 --> 00:19:38,640 anchor cuz you don't want to fall 409 00:19:38,640 --> 00:19:40,720 directly into the blade device so this 410 00:19:40,720 --> 00:19:43,600 is your blade device then the Rope goes 411 00:19:43,600 --> 00:19:47,760 to the anchor and then you take 2 m and 412 00:19:47,760 --> 00:19:50,720 a half yeah more or less and then you 413 00:19:50,720 --> 00:19:53,919 climb all the way above it yeah and you 414 00:19:53,919 --> 00:19:57,640 take a massive whipper and you are a 415 00:19:57,640 --> 00:20:03,840 still Monas of 70 kg 80 80 kg steel Mass 416 00:20:03,840 --> 00:20:06,679 falling in in a in a freeway there's no 417 00:20:06,679 --> 00:20:09,039 friction you don't slam in the wall so 418 00:20:09,039 --> 00:20:11,360 it's falling 419 00:20:11,360 --> 00:20:14,760 vertically I am it's preloading what 420 00:20:14,760 --> 00:20:17,360 what just happened we tied the top I did 421 00:20:17,360 --> 00:20:19,760 an eight knot at the bottom and now we 422 00:20:19,760 --> 00:20:21,799 are elongating the Rope 80 kg are 423 00:20:21,799 --> 00:20:23,720 sitting in the rope and just you know 424 00:20:23,720 --> 00:20:26,520 okay so before the drop it's already 425 00:20:26,520 --> 00:20:29,000 elongating for one minute I usually say 426 00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:31,480 that this kind of activates the 427 00:20:31,480 --> 00:20:34,640 Rope my minute was gone and now it's 428 00:20:34,640 --> 00:20:37,120 going back 429 00:20:37,120 --> 00:20:40,480 up opening again the clamps because now 430 00:20:40,480 --> 00:20:43,120 we need to calibrate to measure the 431 00:20:43,120 --> 00:20:46,840 exact length so at first you put some 432 00:20:46,840 --> 00:20:49,720 weight on the Rope so it stretches to 433 00:20:49,720 --> 00:20:53,440 certain degree yeah and only then you 434 00:20:53,440 --> 00:20:57,440 are calibrating the length yeah so now I 435 00:20:57,440 --> 00:20:59,880 put this two 436 00:20:59,880 --> 00:21:03,720 then I let 10 kg 437 00:21:03,720 --> 00:21:07,240 in so by doing this we make sure that 438 00:21:07,240 --> 00:21:09,760 from here to there there will always be 439 00:21:09,760 --> 00:21:12,520 the same sample length but it's not like 440 00:21:12,520 --> 00:21:15,480 I am pulling here to to get it as tight 441 00:21:15,480 --> 00:21:17,159 as possible and then comes another 442 00:21:17,159 --> 00:21:19,080 tester and they maybe pull a little bit 443 00:21:19,080 --> 00:21:22,080 more than me a little bit less then here 444 00:21:22,080 --> 00:21:24,919 I'm just basically doing a mark with my 445 00:21:24,919 --> 00:21:27,080 adding 3,000 and I'm not sponsored by 446 00:21:27,080 --> 00:21:29,440 adding but it's just this is the marker 447 00:21:29,440 --> 00:21:30,880 that you need to use for your ropes cuz 448 00:21:30,880 --> 00:21:32,600 it doesn't hurt them it's very important 449 00:21:32,600 --> 00:21:36,279 to Mark the Spot to see that the Rope 450 00:21:36,279 --> 00:21:37,840 remained in the same position because if 451 00:21:37,840 --> 00:21:39,720 it would slip somehow then you would 452 00:21:39,720 --> 00:21:43,600 always deliver more or new material to 453 00:21:43,600 --> 00:21:46,200 the deflection Edge you would get ah cuz 454 00:21:46,200 --> 00:21:48,440 you are trying to hit always exactly the 455 00:21:48,440 --> 00:21:50,919 same spot in every fall yeah if you have 456 00:21:50,919 --> 00:21:52,840 a rope slippage in the clam then it's 457 00:21:52,840 --> 00:21:54,799 enough un 458 00:21:54,799 --> 00:21:57,840 result so now what it's hanging again 459 00:21:57,840 --> 00:22:00,320 now it's hanging again again and I 460 00:22:00,320 --> 00:22:01,720 thought you just going to drop and 461 00:22:01,720 --> 00:22:05,279 that's it but like entire preparation 462 00:22:05,279 --> 00:22:07,159 procedure and now this is actually the 463 00:22:07,159 --> 00:22:08,960 most important part because after this 464 00:22:08,960 --> 00:22:12,080 one we will read exactly the SLE sample 465 00:22:12,080 --> 00:22:14,159 length so the the machine takes a 466 00:22:14,159 --> 00:22:17,480 measurement of the length yes down to 467 00:22:17,480 --> 00:22:19,720 the 01 468 00:22:19,720 --> 00:22:25,480 mm so now it's just going to go Kaboom 469 00:22:27,120 --> 00:22:31,120 yes oh man that's a big whipper on 470 00:22:31,120 --> 00:22:35,679 this like okay so now this is our rope 471 00:22:35,679 --> 00:22:38,159 as you see yeah it's like completely 472 00:22:38,159 --> 00:22:40,440 going up you see there's no more there's 473 00:22:40,440 --> 00:22:42,840 no stretch right okay so pretty much 474 00:22:42,840 --> 00:22:44,960 every all the rope that you had is going 475 00:22:44,960 --> 00:22:47,559 up there 476 00:22:53,480 --> 00:22:57,799 yes wow that is like still a big bang 477 00:22:57,799 --> 00:22:58,960 big bang 478 00:22:58,960 --> 00:23:00,720 yeah imagine when it rips then it's a 479 00:23:00,720 --> 00:23:05,000 real big bang so we had a 30% elongation 480 00:23:05,000 --> 00:23:07,360 and Max Force was 481 00:23:07,360 --> 00:23:10,240 8.85 K all right let's start with 482 00:23:10,240 --> 00:23:12,640 elongation I thought that a stretchy 483 00:23:12,640 --> 00:23:15,159 rope is a stretchy rope meaning that if 484 00:23:15,159 --> 00:23:17,919 it has high static elongation it should 485 00:23:17,919 --> 00:23:20,840 have high Dynamic elongation and while 486 00:23:20,840 --> 00:23:23,760 there is a correlation at the same time 487 00:23:23,760 --> 00:23:26,120 there are ropes with high Dynamic 488 00:23:26,120 --> 00:23:29,080 elongation but low static and there are 489 00:23:29,080 --> 00:23:32,120 ropes with high static elongation but 490 00:23:32,120 --> 00:23:33,279 low 491 00:23:33,279 --> 00:23:37,360 Dynamic interesting and actually what it 492 00:23:37,360 --> 00:23:40,799 is really interesting to see is this 493 00:23:40,799 --> 00:23:46,480 one that wasn't there 20 cm maybe 15 cm 494 00:23:46,480 --> 00:23:50,799 yeah of just you know elongated rope now 495 00:23:50,799 --> 00:23:53,559 we have a 5 minute waiting time and a 496 00:23:53,559 --> 00:23:56,039 little bit of this elongation will go 497 00:23:56,039 --> 00:24:01,520 back into place mhm but uh some part uh 498 00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:04,480 will stay let's say stressed forever now 499 00:24:04,480 --> 00:24:06,440 the second parameter we got from the 500 00:24:06,440 --> 00:24:09,799 first drop is the impact Force which 501 00:24:09,799 --> 00:24:12,159 according to the standard should not 502 00:24:12,159 --> 00:24:15,679 exceed 12 kons but most ropes nowadays 503 00:24:15,679 --> 00:24:19,360 will be between 7 and 1 half to 9 kons 504 00:24:19,360 --> 00:24:22,279 anyways however Bill stood out with a 505 00:24:22,279 --> 00:24:25,279 lot of low impact ropes so I was 506 00:24:25,279 --> 00:24:29,240 wondering why and the answer Bec visible 507 00:24:29,240 --> 00:24:33,159 once I plot elongation versus impact 508 00:24:33,159 --> 00:24:35,679 Force turns out they make much 509 00:24:35,679 --> 00:24:38,640 stretchier ropes so if you make a rope 510 00:24:38,640 --> 00:24:40,840 which stretches more obviously that 511 00:24:40,840 --> 00:24:44,039 helps to reduce the impact Force however 512 00:24:44,039 --> 00:24:46,679 as I already explained more stretch is 513 00:24:46,679 --> 00:24:49,440 not always better so a perfect rope 514 00:24:49,440 --> 00:24:52,399 should minimize both elongation and the 515 00:24:52,399 --> 00:24:55,279 impact Force now since I have this huge 516 00:24:55,279 --> 00:24:58,559 database of rope specs I got curious so 517 00:24:58,559 --> 00:25:00,600 which ropes do have the lowest 518 00:25:00,600 --> 00:25:04,080 elongation and impact Force combined I 519 00:25:04,080 --> 00:25:07,000 filtered out all super skinny and super 520 00:25:07,000 --> 00:25:09,600 thick ropes since I don't like them and 521 00:25:09,600 --> 00:25:11,880 voila a list of ropes with the best 522 00:25:11,880 --> 00:25:14,600 Dynamic properties on 523 00:25:14,600 --> 00:25:16,840 paper now are you going to feel the 524 00:25:16,840 --> 00:25:21,480 difference if your rope is 10 to 20% 525 00:25:21,480 --> 00:25:24,039 softer would be interesting to do maybe 526 00:25:24,039 --> 00:25:26,760 some human testing to figure out but the 527 00:25:26,760 --> 00:25:29,440 big elephant in the crack is that all of 528 00:25:29,440 --> 00:25:31,840 those specs are taken from the first 529 00:25:31,840 --> 00:25:34,799 fall only who knows how all of these 530 00:25:34,799 --> 00:25:36,600 ropes are going to perform after 531 00:25:36,600 --> 00:25:39,799 hundreds of Falls maybe softer ropes are 532 00:25:39,799 --> 00:25:41,799 going to lose their Dynamic properties 533 00:25:41,799 --> 00:25:44,559 even faster unfortunately at the moment 534 00:25:44,559 --> 00:25:46,640 there is nothing in the standards that 535 00:25:46,640 --> 00:25:49,279 would test long-term performance of 536 00:25:49,279 --> 00:25:52,120 climbing ropes which is 537 00:25:52,120 --> 00:25:54,919 sad so 538 00:25:54,919 --> 00:25:58,399 UAA but let's continue with our tests 539 00:25:58,399 --> 00:26:02,960 after five minutes rest we have another 540 00:26:05,399 --> 00:26:08,919 drop and this rest drop process is 541 00:26:08,919 --> 00:26:12,399 repeated until the Rope finally breaks 542 00:26:12,399 --> 00:26:14,440 you already see this is like a super 543 00:26:14,440 --> 00:26:16,799 harsh condition this is something that 544 00:26:16,799 --> 00:26:20,840 even in reality is hard to replicate and 545 00:26:20,840 --> 00:26:23,600 then in this s scenario we do this drop 546 00:26:23,600 --> 00:26:26,120 over and over again only with a break of 547 00:26:26,120 --> 00:26:28,600 5 minutes in between drops so the Rope 548 00:26:28,600 --> 00:26:31,360 doesn't really have time to recover and 549 00:26:31,360 --> 00:26:34,039 what you also need to think about that 550 00:26:34,039 --> 00:26:36,799 you're dropping into the exact same 551 00:26:36,799 --> 00:26:39,760 position each each time so the number of 552 00:26:39,760 --> 00:26:41,559 how many of these false the rope with 553 00:26:41,559 --> 00:26:43,799 stood is written on the packaging and 554 00:26:43,799 --> 00:26:46,120 that number is there mainly to confuse 555 00:26:46,120 --> 00:26:48,720 the new climbers into thinking that you 556 00:26:48,720 --> 00:26:52,279 can only fall for let's say five FS but 557 00:26:52,279 --> 00:26:54,679 in reality we never achieve such hard 558 00:26:54,679 --> 00:26:57,279 Falls and you can fall for hundreds of 559 00:26:57,279 --> 00:26:59,679 times before the ends of your Rob starts 560 00:26:59,679 --> 00:27:02,919 to wear down also while on average fer 561 00:27:02,919 --> 00:27:06,200 robes do have higher UIA full rating 562 00:27:06,200 --> 00:27:08,520 some brands use bare minimum of five 563 00:27:08,520 --> 00:27:12,240 Falls even for their beefy ropes so as 564 00:27:12,240 --> 00:27:15,120 it stands for now this fall rating is 565 00:27:15,120 --> 00:27:18,600 only an indicator that your rope is safe 566 00:27:18,600 --> 00:27:22,240 rather than how long is it going to be 567 00:27:22,240 --> 00:27:26,600 safe next test uiaa water test same 568 00:27:26,600 --> 00:27:28,520 setup as before for the shift slippage 569 00:27:28,520 --> 00:27:30,039 same machine the only thing that we're 570 00:27:30,039 --> 00:27:32,039 going to change here is that we're 571 00:27:32,039 --> 00:27:33,880 putting new bolts every single sample 572 00:27:33,880 --> 00:27:36,840 that we do so it's a onetime use product 573 00:27:36,840 --> 00:27:39,480 unfortunately not very sustainable but 574 00:27:39,480 --> 00:27:41,640 if you wouldn't do it the inside of the 575 00:27:41,640 --> 00:27:43,320 bolts would change over time because of 576 00:27:43,320 --> 00:27:45,080 the abration of the Rope so these are 577 00:27:45,080 --> 00:27:47,159 some of the the used ones so it's full 578 00:27:47,159 --> 00:27:50,080 of fibers so the Rope goes through the 579 00:27:50,080 --> 00:27:52,880 bolt yes and then as before you have 580 00:27:52,880 --> 00:27:55,760 three bolts one gets pulled down this 581 00:27:55,760 --> 00:27:57,760 one gets pulled this way and this one 582 00:27:57,760 --> 00:27:59,880 gets pulled this way one goes that way 583 00:27:59,880 --> 00:28:01,600 one goes that way and one go this one 584 00:28:01,600 --> 00:28:04,279 goes down so now you and I have to pull 585 00:28:04,279 --> 00:28:06,440 this back and forth oh and and me as 586 00:28:06,440 --> 00:28:08,399 well yeah of course how do you do this 587 00:28:08,399 --> 00:28:11,159 alone I just run back and forth so I 588 00:28:11,159 --> 00:28:14,919 pull yeah oh W try to keep it as level 589 00:28:14,919 --> 00:28:18,840 as possible stop and now follow 590 00:28:18,840 --> 00:28:20,480 me 591 00:28:20,480 --> 00:28:24,519 yeah this is a warm up for 592 00:28:24,600 --> 00:28:30,120 climbing know what would be funny m 593 00:28:31,650 --> 00:28:34,360 [Laughter] 594 00:28:34,360 --> 00:28:36,559 I expected 595 00:28:36,559 --> 00:28:40,480 it so now we have more fluffy rope yeah 596 00:28:40,480 --> 00:28:42,919 and we do this to simulate a a rope in 597 00:28:42,919 --> 00:28:45,200 normal use we do not want to do this 598 00:28:45,200 --> 00:28:47,480 water test on a brand new rope because 599 00:28:47,480 --> 00:28:50,039 it would not be 600 00:28:50,159 --> 00:28:54,080 realistic and then oh the fumes are 601 00:28:54,080 --> 00:28:58,880 delicious now 24 hours 23 602 00:28:58,880 --> 00:29:01,640 50% humidity another time sensitive 603 00:29:01,640 --> 00:29:04,840 Endeavor yes so now I'm going to take a 604 00:29:04,840 --> 00:29:08,720 sample the one you and I prepared 605 00:29:12,170 --> 00:29:14,240 [Music] 606 00:29:14,240 --> 00:29:17,519 yesterday let's 607 00:29:19,240 --> 00:29:23,080 go basically it is important to to be 608 00:29:23,080 --> 00:29:30,039 fast on this one okay so put my C in 609 00:29:30,799 --> 00:29:32,360 and I make sure that there's water 610 00:29:32,360 --> 00:29:36,760 running on top of it now I start my time 611 00:29:36,760 --> 00:29:40,559 I'm checking the water flow per minute 612 00:29:40,559 --> 00:29:43,399 so it is not submerging the Rope 613 00:29:43,399 --> 00:29:46,600 completely under water 2 L per minute 614 00:29:46,600 --> 00:29:49,399 plus - 02 and then the water is running 615 00:29:49,399 --> 00:29:52,720 on top of our fuzzy prepared rope and 616 00:29:52,720 --> 00:29:54,080 you see here it's really important that 617 00:29:54,080 --> 00:29:56,559 your ends are sealed otherwise the water 618 00:29:56,559 --> 00:29:59,039 will just you know go in 619 00:29:59,039 --> 00:30:03,080 rather than stay outside with a dry 620 00:30:03,080 --> 00:30:05,519 treatment it looks like the end of the 621 00:30:05,519 --> 00:30:07,320 Rope is pissing a little bit yeah a 622 00:30:07,320 --> 00:30:09,600 little bit and it's going to take now 15 623 00:30:09,600 --> 00:30:11,760 minutes so we can 15 minutes we can go 624 00:30:11,760 --> 00:30:13,399 for a 625 00:30:13,399 --> 00:30:16,120 coffee okay now our 15 minutes are done 626 00:30:16,120 --> 00:30:20,159 I need to take it off place here and 627 00:30:20,159 --> 00:30:23,240 just drop 628 00:30:23,240 --> 00:30:26,840 it that is funny three times that is 629 00:30:26,840 --> 00:30:29,960 very funny change 630 00:30:31,039 --> 00:30:32,360 do the 631 00:30:32,360 --> 00:30:37,720 same on the other side now I place it 632 00:30:37,720 --> 00:30:41,080 here and now we it's time to weigh it so 633 00:30:41,080 --> 00:30:44,200 what are you aiming for we usually are 634 00:30:44,200 --> 00:30:47,760 around 1% maybe a bit less to claim that 635 00:30:47,760 --> 00:30:50,960 it's a dry rope when you do this 636 00:30:50,960 --> 00:30:54,399 test she's good at this what she's 637 00:30:54,399 --> 00:30:56,480 really good at this are we ready to go 638 00:30:56,480 --> 00:30:58,440 to the weekend 639 00:30:58,440 --> 00:31:00,240 are we ready to go to the weekend we're 640 00:31:00,240 --> 00:31:04,320 talking about the dry limits sorry so 641 00:31:04,320 --> 00:31:07,639 yeah usually to declare that your 642 00:31:07,639 --> 00:31:10,320 water now while digging through all the 643 00:31:10,320 --> 00:31:12,679 different manufacturer websites I found 644 00:31:12,679 --> 00:31:15,039 out that there are a lot of different 645 00:31:15,039 --> 00:31:18,399 dry treatments with different labels 646 00:31:18,399 --> 00:31:20,440 sometimes the treatments are added only 647 00:31:20,440 --> 00:31:23,080 to the Shi sometimes both the sheath and 648 00:31:23,080 --> 00:31:25,240 the cor and sometimes they are better 649 00:31:25,240 --> 00:31:29,000 for our planet and labeled as PF F C3 650 00:31:29,000 --> 00:31:31,159 but just because the Rope is treated 651 00:31:31,159 --> 00:31:33,840 with something it doesn't mean that it's 652 00:31:33,840 --> 00:31:37,919 past UIA water repellent test to have 653 00:31:37,919 --> 00:31:41,159 UIA water repellent label the Rope needs 654 00:31:41,159 --> 00:31:44,720 to absorb less than 5% of water and if 655 00:31:44,720 --> 00:31:46,679 you want to learn more about what 656 00:31:46,679 --> 00:31:48,720 happens when the water penetrates the 657 00:31:48,720 --> 00:31:51,519 Rope I have made a video showing exactly 658 00:31:51,519 --> 00:31:55,960 that both in theory and in 659 00:31:56,080 --> 00:31:59,120 experiments [ __ ] there's the lad coming 660 00:31:59,120 --> 00:32:02,360 out and as a side note dry treatment not 661 00:32:02,360 --> 00:32:05,240 only blocks the water from entering but 662 00:32:05,240 --> 00:32:08,760 also the dust which can greatly increase 663 00:32:08,760 --> 00:32:11,279 the lifespan of the Rope we also tried 664 00:32:11,279 --> 00:32:14,120 washing the rope and see if that helps 665 00:32:14,120 --> 00:32:16,840 so yeah that's another Shameless plug of 666 00:32:16,840 --> 00:32:19,960 my previous videos what the 667 00:32:19,960 --> 00:32:23,760 hell yeah she's using the 668 00:32:23,760 --> 00:32:27,240 heels hi Mobility people hi Mobility you 669 00:32:27,240 --> 00:32:30,679 have shorter legs hey no no leg short 670 00:32:30,679 --> 00:32:32,880 leg 671 00:32:33,559 --> 00:32:36,240 shaving you can't even put your legs on 672 00:32:36,240 --> 00:32:38,399 the 673 00:32:38,630 --> 00:32:41,120 [Music] 674 00:32:41,120 --> 00:32:43,760 pedals 675 00:32:43,760 --> 00:32:47,679 wo I just did a wheelie I'm just doing a 676 00:32:47,679 --> 00:32:50,760 wheelie do this I need to Le more 677 00:32:50,760 --> 00:32:52,639 forward so I 678 00:32:52,639 --> 00:32:56,120 didn't I'm going I'm going I'm going 679 00:32:56,120 --> 00:32:59,559 he's going so sometimes I get U 680 00:32:59,559 --> 00:33:02,039 impressed by the amount of people who 681 00:33:02,039 --> 00:33:04,240 watch my videos when I'm making and I'm 682 00:33:04,240 --> 00:33:06,960 filming I'm just here alone and it's so 683 00:33:06,960 --> 00:33:09,799 hard to imagine so many of you watching 684 00:33:09,799 --> 00:33:13,639 this so thank you I appreciate it it's 685 00:33:13,639 --> 00:33:16,720 super nice and thank you for mammut for 686 00:33:16,720 --> 00:33:21,760 sharing all of these geeky topics with 687 00:33:23,320 --> 00:33:26,840 us yeah