0:00:00.199,0:00:02.960
ah hello curious human I don't know if

0:00:02.960,0:00:04.880
you ever looked into the technical

0:00:04.880,0:00:07.520
specifications of a climbing rope but it

0:00:07.520,0:00:10.440
does have a lot of mysterious numbers

0:00:10.440,0:00:12.320
that I think are there just to confuse

0:00:12.320,0:00:14.679
the new climbers and then it has a lot

0:00:14.679,0:00:17.680
of seemingly obvious things like

0:00:17.680,0:00:21.680
diameter length weight however if you

0:00:21.680,0:00:24.119
try to measure them and I have tried

0:00:24.119,0:00:26.840
that many times you will never get the

0:00:26.840,0:00:30.080
numbers that are declared so I had two

0:00:30.080,0:00:32.480
goals for this video the first one was

0:00:32.480,0:00:35.200
to visit my nerdy friends at mamut

0:00:35.200,0:00:37.520
welcome to the world of Destruction

0:00:37.520,0:00:39.760
welcome to the world of Destruction she

0:00:39.760,0:00:42.640
says and see how every parameter is

0:00:42.640,0:00:45.320
measured in the lab and what those

0:00:45.320,0:00:48.160
numbers actually mean and then I got

0:00:48.160,0:00:50.360
curious is there any difference between

0:00:50.360,0:00:52.879
different ropes meaning if I take 9.5

0:00:52.879,0:00:55.640
from one brand and then I would take 9.5

0:00:55.640,0:00:58.800
rope from the other brand will there be

0:00:58.800,0:01:00.840
any difference in technical

0:01:00.840,0:01:03.039
specifications or it's pretty much all

0:01:03.039,0:01:05.760
the same nowadays so I ended up scraping

0:01:05.760,0:01:07.159
the internet and collecting

0:01:07.159,0:01:09.280
specifications of hundreds of climbing

0:01:09.280,0:01:11.159
ropes and then building correlation

0:01:11.159,0:01:13.280
charts between different

0:01:13.280,0:01:16.840
parameters so yeah all with the goal to

0:01:16.840,0:01:20.439
make you a bit of a climbing rope nerd

0:01:20.439,0:01:21.960
or nerd

0:01:21.960,0:01:26.520
this the Holy Bible the Holy Bible

0:01:26.520,0:01:29.520
standards

0:01:30.320,0:01:32.119
so you follow the Bible when you do the

0:01:32.119,0:01:35.200
testing yes this is actually like um

0:01:35.200,0:01:38.399
short version short version yes you even

0:01:38.399,0:01:42.640
add underscores like so geeky yeah

0:01:42.640,0:01:45.320
that's instead of space he just adds

0:01:45.320,0:01:48.560
underscore Dash so I have here a classic

0:01:48.560,0:01:50.680
report an internal report in which we

0:01:50.680,0:01:52.799
have to provide numbers for a

0:01:52.799,0:01:55.040
construction diameter the weight of the

0:01:55.040,0:01:56.920
Corp and the weight for the sheath and

0:01:56.920,0:01:58.399
then of course we we sum it up and then

0:01:58.399,0:02:01.640
we get the weight per per gr per meters

0:02:01.640,0:02:03.280
okay you're overloading me already let's

0:02:03.280,0:02:06.079
go one by one one by one construction

0:02:06.079,0:02:09.399
test construction test what is that so

0:02:09.399,0:02:11.920
construction is a number that will be

0:02:11.920,0:02:15.560
tested that the consumer will never

0:02:15.560,0:02:17.959
see just make a

0:02:17.959,0:02:20.640
pric and then

0:02:20.640,0:02:22.319
I

0:02:22.319,0:02:26.920
slowly let the wait in so you just put

0:02:26.920,0:02:29.599
now 10 kg 10 kg and then now we should

0:02:29.599,0:02:31.280
wait for a minute but in the meantime I

0:02:31.280,0:02:33.120
can explain you you say Okay I want to

0:02:33.120,0:02:35.599
start from here then you follow a

0:02:35.599,0:02:38.440
straight line you come back to the same

0:02:38.440,0:02:41.120
pattern and you do this five

0:02:41.120,0:02:46.440
times one two three and five certified

0:02:46.440,0:02:49.599
ruler my minute is almost done so now I

0:02:49.599,0:02:53.519
can take my measurement this is 17 cm my

0:02:53.519,0:02:58.800
construction will be 17 cm divid 5 34 mm

0:02:58.800,0:03:00.879
this means that

0:03:00.879,0:03:03.760
every 34 mm we have a repetition in the

0:03:03.760,0:03:06.920
in the pattern in the pattern exactly

0:03:06.920,0:03:11.159
the smaller the size that means you have

0:03:11.159,0:03:16.159
more material on the same surface area

0:03:16.159,0:03:18.080
so if you have more material on the same

0:03:18.080,0:03:21.120
surface area it gets more

0:03:21.120,0:03:25.080
stiff if it's more spread out that means

0:03:25.080,0:03:29.360
the angle of the twins is a little bit

0:03:29.360,0:03:31.799
more steep mhm then you have less

0:03:31.799,0:03:34.280
material on the same surface area and

0:03:34.280,0:03:37.760
then it's softer so are you aiming to

0:03:37.760,0:03:41.080
have more material in the same or it's a

0:03:41.080,0:03:43.319
balance that you're playing with you're

0:03:43.319,0:03:45.480
trying to get the best hand feel for the

0:03:45.480,0:03:47.640
Rope Mamud ropes for example are usually

0:03:47.640,0:03:50.360
known to be a little bit stiffer so we

0:03:50.360,0:03:53.000
know what kind um of construction we

0:03:53.000,0:03:55.640
need to make in order to achieve this

0:03:55.640,0:03:57.760
this is actually very interesting if you

0:03:57.760,0:03:59.799
compare Dynamic ropes from different

0:03:59.799,0:04:02.120
Brands you can feel that some of them

0:04:02.120,0:04:04.799
can be very soft While others can be

0:04:04.799,0:04:07.959
much stiffer unfortunately as Adriana

0:04:07.959,0:04:11.000
said I was not able to find any Brands

0:04:11.000,0:04:13.519
listing construction on their data

0:04:13.519,0:04:16.320
sheets pel does have a property named

0:04:16.320,0:04:18.919
construction but what they actually list

0:04:18.919,0:04:21.600
is the number of bobbins that were used

0:04:21.600,0:04:23.759
in the making of the Rope so it's a

0:04:23.759,0:04:26.040
different parameter which is also very

0:04:26.040,0:04:29.039
rare to find on specifications but the

0:04:29.039,0:04:32.759
more B Robins used the smoother the Shi

0:04:32.759,0:04:35.280
of the Rope is going to be the cubicles

0:04:35.280,0:04:37.960
that make the Rope will be much smaller

0:04:37.960,0:04:40.120
which creates less friction and should

0:04:40.120,0:04:42.600
increase the durability of the Rope but

0:04:42.600,0:04:44.560
back to the softness of the Rope

0:04:44.560,0:04:49.000
personally I would like a uiaa soft test

0:04:49.000,0:04:51.880
unfortunately currently we only have one

0:04:51.880,0:04:55.560
test which is somewhat related next test

0:04:55.560,0:04:58.120
next test it's called notability test

0:04:58.120,0:05:00.199
it's part of the static rope test but we

0:05:00.199,0:05:03.240
do it anyways even for our Dynamic ropes

0:05:03.240,0:05:08.080
we have to do is make a simple overhand

0:05:09.400,0:05:12.400
knot so they are both overhand knots

0:05:12.400,0:05:14.280
they are opposite they're mirroring each

0:05:14.280,0:05:19.560
other 10 kg let it sit

0:05:20.600,0:05:24.080
gently for a

0:05:24.280,0:05:28.720
minute we have this uh Harry Potter wand

0:05:28.720,0:05:30.160
Harry Potter wand

0:05:30.160,0:05:31.560
do you know any

0:05:31.560,0:05:34.560
spells

0:05:35.639,0:05:38.600
uh oh that would be useful for climbing

0:05:38.600,0:05:40.759
yeah lift myself up to the next bolt

0:05:40.759,0:05:44.360
then I gently take out I only leave the

0:05:44.360,0:05:46.639
1 kilogram and now without putting

0:05:46.639,0:05:49.360
pressure I need

0:05:49.360,0:05:52.440
to make it go

0:05:52.440,0:05:55.199
in so here is roughly

0:05:55.199,0:05:59.759
seven here I go

0:06:03.639,0:06:06.880
seven so notability is a ratio between

0:06:06.880,0:06:10.360
rope diameter and magic wand penetration

0:06:10.360,0:06:12.599
the smaller the number the softer the

0:06:12.599,0:06:15.599
Rope is but it's rare to see

0:06:15.599,0:06:17.919
manufacturers providing this number for

0:06:17.919,0:06:20.800
dynamic ropes so if you are particular

0:06:20.800,0:06:23.440
on how soft you want your rope to be

0:06:23.440,0:06:26.039
unfortunately you will have to go out

0:06:26.039,0:06:29.639
into the climbing shop and touch oh next

0:06:29.639,0:06:32.199
one is my favorite one diameter diameter

0:06:32.199,0:06:34.880
exactly I've tried to measure this so

0:06:34.880,0:06:35.840
many

0:06:35.840,0:06:38.840
times and it's a wild west when you

0:06:38.840,0:06:43.639
measure it so show it how you arrive to

0:06:43.639,0:06:47.720
9.5 okay so 9.5 9.8 I have to measure

0:06:47.720,0:06:50.599
within one meter of sample of course

0:06:50.599,0:06:54.000
there's always a tolerance now I get my

0:06:54.000,0:06:57.800
caliper with the special flat edges oh

0:06:57.800,0:07:00.879
it's a different caliper yeah

0:07:00.879,0:07:03.319
now I have to take six measurements I'm

0:07:03.319,0:07:06.879
not trying to squeeze to get my number

0:07:06.879,0:07:09.840
but without putting pressure I need to

0:07:09.840,0:07:13.759
go around and see where it's

0:07:15.280,0:07:19.479
maximum it should be here

0:07:19.479,0:07:23.280
10.03 and then I can turn

0:07:23.280,0:07:27.440
90° 9.8 so you found the thickest point

0:07:27.440,0:07:30.039
in that spot and the thinnest

0:07:30.039,0:07:32.520
and you take the average of that

0:07:32.520,0:07:35.039
yes then here I do the

0:07:35.039,0:07:36.919
same

0:07:36.919,0:07:39.000
9.84 +

0:07:39.000,0:07:41.000
103

0:07:41.000,0:07:44.919
9.82 so I divide everything by my six

0:07:44.919,0:07:47.720
measurements then I get a 9.95 and what

0:07:47.720,0:07:49.560
was it supposed to be

0:07:49.560,0:07:53.240
9.8 so we are

0:07:53.240,0:07:56.919
015 over yes so something to know is

0:07:56.919,0:08:00.639
that by standard we have a

0:08:00.639,0:08:04.479
0.2 um tolerance for the diameter so

0:08:04.479,0:08:08.400
every rope I buy as a plus minus yeah to

0:08:08.400,0:08:10.800
factor in the various steps of

0:08:10.800,0:08:13.280
production which you cannot control down

0:08:13.280,0:08:16.840
to the 0 mm so basically whatever goes

0:08:16.840,0:08:21.440
on the package is plusus 0.2 mm anyway

0:08:21.440,0:08:25.479
measured in preloaded way exactly so

0:08:25.479,0:08:27.599
that's why pretty much every time I try

0:08:27.599,0:08:31.000
to measure it is way more more mhm so no

0:08:31.000,0:08:34.440
point in doing this at home well now now

0:08:34.440,0:08:36.880
we know now now you know how yes but

0:08:36.880,0:08:39.039
also all the samples would need to be

0:08:39.039,0:08:41.719
climatized at a certain temperature and

0:08:41.719,0:08:44.920
humidity percentage so we put it in that

0:08:44.920,0:08:47.640
big cabinet over there which keeps

0:08:47.640,0:08:51.440
23° and 50% humidity and technically

0:08:51.440,0:08:53.279
this test has to be done within a

0:08:53.279,0:08:56.240
certain time upon removal 1 minute to

0:08:56.240,0:08:58.760
hang the 10 kg then within 1 minute you

0:08:58.760,0:09:00.959
had to measure the construction within

0:09:00.959,0:09:02.600
another minute you had to measure the

0:09:02.600,0:09:04.560
diameter so you're running from there to

0:09:04.560,0:09:07.480
here yeah I try to be fast okay and you

0:09:07.480,0:09:09.720
know what always fascinates me how such

0:09:09.720,0:09:12.399
a small change can make such a big

0:09:12.399,0:09:15.800
difference if we compare 9.0 rope

0:09:15.800,0:09:19.440
against 9.5 rope you will feel a big

0:09:19.440,0:09:21.959
difference however at the same time it's

0:09:21.959,0:09:26.720
only half a millim difference now we can

0:09:26.720,0:09:29.839
do the weight per meter don't need this

0:09:29.839,0:09:32.120
I'm going to cut on the same side of the

0:09:32.120,0:09:34.399
pin I put in just to factor in that bit

0:09:34.399,0:09:36.240
of

0:09:36.240,0:09:40.519
H oh okay and also

0:09:42.399,0:09:46.399
here so this is 1 M if you put 10 kilog

0:09:46.399,0:09:50.480
yes and then here what we do is we take

0:09:50.480,0:09:54.040
the core out and measure it and also as

0:09:54.040,0:09:56.160
you can see this is another really

0:09:56.160,0:09:59.440
precise kill if I go like this

0:09:59.440,0:10:02.200
it changes so basically just little bit

0:10:02.200,0:10:05.519
of wind does change the reading yes

0:10:05.519,0:10:07.600
exactly now I

0:10:07.600,0:10:11.399
do the sheath weight now in rope

0:10:11.399,0:10:13.480
specifications you will always find

0:10:13.480,0:10:16.959
combined weight per meter and shift

0:10:16.959,0:10:19.279
percentage however if you want to know

0:10:19.279,0:10:21.440
the total weight of your rope

0:10:21.440,0:10:24.200
multiplying weight per meter by the

0:10:24.200,0:10:27.399
meters which seems obvious is not going

0:10:27.399,0:10:30.000
to be accurate at all so first as you

0:10:30.000,0:10:33.279
saw their meter is taken from the loaded

0:10:33.279,0:10:36.519
rope but also manufacturers Package 2 to

0:10:36.519,0:10:39.760
3% more length of the Rope than what

0:10:39.760,0:10:42.000
they declare on the package and that's

0:10:42.000,0:10:44.240
done because ropes have a tendency to

0:10:44.240,0:10:47.519
shrink over time so manufacturers are

0:10:47.519,0:10:51.480
being nice to us by giving more of the

0:10:51.480,0:10:53.680
Rope now obviously there is a clear

0:10:53.680,0:10:55.920
correlation between the diameter of the

0:10:55.920,0:10:58.360
rope and the weight but what is

0:10:58.360,0:11:00.760
interesting is is that the variance can

0:11:00.760,0:11:03.720
still be very big for example there are

0:11:03.720,0:11:07.320
10 mm ropes that are lighter than some

0:11:07.320,0:11:11.360
of 9.5 ropes now personally I'm not a

0:11:11.360,0:11:13.600
big fan of chasing the lightest and

0:11:13.600,0:11:16.399
smallest in everything but if the weight

0:11:16.399,0:11:18.560
is a big factor for you you might be

0:11:18.560,0:11:21.440
entertained to know that multiple Brands

0:11:21.440,0:11:24.000
claim to have the lightest double rope

0:11:24.000,0:11:27.519
on the market next test next test shift

0:11:27.519,0:11:32.360
slippage shift so now exactly so this is

0:11:32.360,0:11:35.000
your favorite room in summer for sure

0:11:35.000,0:11:38.200
when it's really hot so now this end is

0:11:38.200,0:11:41.000
open and this one is sealed cuz I cut it

0:11:41.000,0:11:42.760
with the heat cutter now I can explain

0:11:42.760,0:11:45.480
you what this

0:11:45.959,0:11:49.440
is exactly this very simple let's call

0:11:49.440,0:11:52.440
it machine is defined uh this machine is

0:11:52.440,0:11:53.320
called

0:11:53.320,0:11:55.959
machine no it's called shift slippage

0:11:55.959,0:12:00.320
machine oh sh shift shift she slippage

0:12:00.320,0:12:02.399
machine exactly so what we're going to

0:12:02.399,0:12:05.399
do here we have this uh three 5 kilogram

0:12:05.399,0:12:08.360
weights and we're going to engage them

0:12:08.360,0:12:10.399
so now this one is pulling this one is

0:12:10.399,0:12:13.279
pulling and this one is pulling so now

0:12:13.279,0:12:17.480
in here we have three standardized bolts

0:12:17.480,0:12:19.320
and they're pulling on three Direction

0:12:19.320,0:12:21.160
different directions so one is pulling

0:12:21.160,0:12:23.480
this way this one is pulling this way

0:12:23.480,0:12:26.000
this one is pulling down mhm what I have

0:12:26.000,0:12:29.240
to do I have to pull it until the end

0:12:29.240,0:12:31.680
comes within this marks that's why I

0:12:31.680,0:12:34.440
have my uh my mirror here so I can check

0:12:34.440,0:12:36.800
so I can

0:12:36.800,0:12:39.399
start and it has to be a continuous

0:12:39.399,0:12:42.399
speed and I'm

0:12:42.399,0:12:46.240
there so you pulled the rope with some

0:12:46.240,0:12:49.920
pressure from three sides towards the

0:12:49.920,0:12:52.639
Rope

0:12:52.639,0:12:56.560
yes and now you reset and pulling again

0:12:56.560,0:13:01.120
yes and I have to do this five times

0:13:03.399,0:13:07.560
so it's basically rope squeezer yeah

0:13:07.560,0:13:09.880
number

0:13:09.880,0:13:12.320
five as you see I've never touched this

0:13:12.320,0:13:14.600
part right I was always pulling and

0:13:14.600,0:13:17.199
pushing from this part now I slide it

0:13:17.199,0:13:18.120
back

0:13:18.120,0:13:20.639
again you're talking like a magician you

0:13:20.639,0:13:23.839
know of course Pini as you see nothing

0:13:23.839,0:13:26.440
happens here and now look Poof

0:13:26.440,0:13:29.720
Magic now you can actually see

0:13:29.720,0:13:33.320
here exactly where we had our Mark the

0:13:33.320,0:13:35.560
shei hasn't moved he really sounds like

0:13:35.560,0:13:36.839
a magician

0:13:36.839,0:13:40.760
now you want some some poof trick number

0:13:40.760,0:13:43.279
one I know this is actually something I

0:13:43.279,0:13:46.360
I really really like uh shift slip is

0:13:46.360,0:13:49.240
zero that's why we declare zero so what

0:13:49.240,0:13:54.959
you could expect usually is to have your

0:13:54.959,0:13:58.560
core to be now it's just out and then

0:13:58.560,0:14:01.800
you would have to measure like this this

0:14:01.800,0:14:06.000
will be 6.77 mm and this we will call

0:14:06.000,0:14:09.959
minus 6.7 cuz it goes out so what I had

0:14:09.959,0:14:12.720
happened where I cut the rope even

0:14:12.720,0:14:14.839
though I burn the end but maybe I don't

0:14:14.839,0:14:17.959
burn it very well and I go climbing and

0:14:17.959,0:14:20.720
sometimes some of the core starts coming

0:14:20.720,0:14:25.199
out is this related to this yes so with

0:14:25.199,0:14:27.000
this rope which is declared as zero

0:14:27.000,0:14:30.480
sheep slippage the core would not start

0:14:30.480,0:14:32.880
coming out of the if one end is sealed

0:14:32.880,0:14:36.240
if one end is sealed and if both ends

0:14:36.240,0:14:39.519
were cut then the core is free to move

0:14:39.519,0:14:41.680
it's like a snake in a tube it just goes

0:14:41.680,0:14:43.440
back and forth if you wants I've done

0:14:43.440,0:14:45.600
this many times I still sometimes find

0:14:45.600,0:14:48.079
it difficult to burn the end well you

0:14:48.079,0:14:50.160
might burn a little bit and it's there

0:14:50.160,0:14:52.360
is still visibly big holes then you

0:14:52.360,0:14:54.399
start burning more then it all goes on

0:14:54.399,0:14:57.880
fire and then the big Clump happens well

0:14:57.880,0:15:00.600
what I do sometimes times but this is

0:15:00.600,0:15:03.079
you hit the knife no I I use I use a

0:15:03.079,0:15:04.720
stove you make it really hot and then

0:15:04.720,0:15:06.920
try to tension it as much as much as

0:15:06.920,0:15:10.759
possible and use bars going through the

0:15:10.759,0:15:13.040
you know the gas burning use that one as

0:15:13.040,0:15:16.880
a knife oh so it it it will look like

0:15:16.880,0:15:20.320
this and then you have that fume of

0:15:20.320,0:15:23.360
plastic coming out of your stove for how

0:15:23.360,0:15:26.399
many days that's not safe maybe because

0:15:26.399,0:15:28.399
you're burning plastic but this is not a

0:15:28.399,0:15:31.759
m Cor recommendation this is a a

0:15:31.759,0:15:33.839
recommendation okay now when it comes to

0:15:33.839,0:15:36.839
shift slippage unfortunately not all the

0:15:36.839,0:15:39.360
brands list that information on their

0:15:39.360,0:15:42.360
websites and in some cases they list

0:15:42.360,0:15:44.639
only on some of the ropes so if it's

0:15:44.639,0:15:47.000
zero they list zero if it's not zero

0:15:47.000,0:15:49.120
then who knows and according to the

0:15:49.120,0:15:51.079
standard this information should be on

0:15:51.079,0:15:53.600
the packaging however if you're shopping

0:15:53.600,0:15:57.079
online then good luck knowing now we

0:15:57.079,0:15:59.120
have to do static elongation so these

0:15:59.120,0:16:01.959
are reflected tapes and I'm putting it

0:16:01.959,0:16:05.000
just a little bit above my clamps one at

0:16:05.000,0:16:09.720
the bottom one here at the top now sorry

0:16:09.720,0:16:12.639
I go in only while the machine is not

0:16:12.639,0:16:15.560
running just because I have to play with

0:16:15.560,0:16:20.040
lasers of course exactly I can

0:16:20.759,0:16:23.160
start only while the machine is not

0:16:23.160,0:16:24.440
running

0:16:24.440,0:16:27.560
instead so it went into a pre-tension

0:16:27.560,0:16:30.480
phase and now I need to check that the

0:16:30.480,0:16:34.199
laser is actually in place so I read the

0:16:34.199,0:16:35.639
first one because you saw it stopped and

0:16:35.639,0:16:38.759
beep and blinked now we'll reach the top

0:16:38.759,0:16:41.759
one and blink

0:16:44.880,0:16:47.880
again let's just close this

0:16:47.880,0:16:50.839
one so as you can see the the lasers are

0:16:50.839,0:16:53.680
going up ah so your markers are going up

0:16:53.680,0:16:55.360
and the lasers keep following them

0:16:55.360,0:16:58.480
exactly and we have our holding time of

0:16:58.480,0:17:01.240
3 minutes and it keeps holding exactly

0:17:01.240,0:17:03.880
80 kg as the Rope is relaxing it keeps

0:17:03.880,0:17:06.360
pulling more that's why you can see here

0:17:06.360,0:17:09.480
D L elongation of the sample compared to

0:17:09.480,0:17:11.520
the starting position yeah see it keeps

0:17:11.520,0:17:14.079
increasing so if I stand here and the

0:17:14.079,0:17:15.799
laser misses the marker it shines

0:17:15.799,0:17:18.280
straight to my eyes yeah and then you

0:17:18.280,0:17:21.319
get to stay home from

0:17:22.600,0:17:26.039
work I just smiling saying

0:17:26.039,0:17:29.360
thisas okay so machine completely

0:17:29.360,0:17:32.760
relaxed yes and your lasers went down

0:17:32.760,0:17:36.039
yes and you got the results

0:17:36.039,0:17:38.919
5.71% so static elongation is basically

0:17:38.919,0:17:41.600
imitating you sitting in the Rope or

0:17:41.600,0:17:43.880
taking a top rope fall and for most

0:17:43.880,0:17:47.360
dynamic ropes it's between 5 to 10%

0:17:47.360,0:17:50.600
where 10% is the maximum allowed by the

0:17:50.600,0:17:53.360
standards let's say you want to top rope

0:17:53.360,0:17:56.760
a 30 m long route and the climber takes

0:17:56.760,0:17:59.720
a fall close to the ground so so we have

0:17:59.720,0:18:02.840
total 60 M of rope in the system Let's

0:18:02.840,0:18:05.000
ignore all the potential zigzags

0:18:05.000,0:18:07.120
friction and maybe slack and let's say

0:18:07.120,0:18:09.919
that we are using a rope with 5% of

0:18:09.919,0:18:12.840
static elongation so such Fall Would

0:18:12.840,0:18:16.200
stretch the Rope for 3 m but if our

0:18:16.200,0:18:19.440
static elongation would be closer to 10%

0:18:19.440,0:18:22.640
then the fall or the stretch would be up

0:18:22.640,0:18:25.880
to 6 M and that would be really bad for

0:18:25.880,0:18:28.280
top roping with such rope at the same

0:18:28.280,0:18:30.440
time it would also be a bad rope for

0:18:30.440,0:18:32.679
projecting cuz every time you would pull

0:18:32.679,0:18:34.679
on the Rope you would be just stretching

0:18:34.679,0:18:37.000
it like a rubber band but I'm going to

0:18:37.000,0:18:39.880
come back to this topic after we see how

0:18:39.880,0:18:43.240
Dynamic elongation and impact force is

0:18:43.240,0:18:46.960
measured so so yes welcome to the fancy

0:18:46.960,0:18:49.480
drop tower exactly super fancy that it's

0:18:49.480,0:18:52.120
all kind of automatic I see it's doing

0:18:52.120,0:18:54.559
its thing and you're doing nothing yeah

0:18:54.559,0:18:56.080
yeah yeah besides running up and down

0:18:56.080,0:18:57.280
the

0:18:57.280,0:19:00.320
stairs so now basically just went up

0:19:00.320,0:19:03.159
checked all the positions now I have to

0:19:03.159,0:19:04.799
tie in the

0:19:04.799,0:19:09.720
sample secure it one two so there is no

0:19:09.720,0:19:11.960
knot at this end

0:19:11.960,0:19:14.840
no ah so it's friction but in the end

0:19:14.840,0:19:17.840
there is still some kind of clamp yes

0:19:17.840,0:19:19.320
and what we do here with these three

0:19:19.320,0:19:22.360
turns is to not have the force of the

0:19:22.360,0:19:25.480
Fall absorb here yeah it would break it

0:19:25.480,0:19:26.919
that spot exactly it would just

0:19:26.919,0:19:29.000
basically choke it and cut it so our

0:19:29.000,0:19:31.840
goal here is to simulate a really high

0:19:31.840,0:19:33.559
factor fall for example you're

0:19:33.559,0:19:35.600
multipitch climbing and you start off

0:19:35.600,0:19:37.120
you always you know back up at the

0:19:37.120,0:19:38.640
anchor cuz you don't want to fall

0:19:38.640,0:19:40.720
directly into the blade device so this

0:19:40.720,0:19:43.600
is your blade device then the Rope goes

0:19:43.600,0:19:47.760
to the anchor and then you take 2 m and

0:19:47.760,0:19:50.720
a half yeah more or less and then you

0:19:50.720,0:19:53.919
climb all the way above it yeah and you

0:19:53.919,0:19:57.640
take a massive whipper and you are a

0:19:57.640,0:20:03.840
still Monas of 70 kg 80 80 kg steel Mass

0:20:03.840,0:20:06.679
falling in in a in a freeway there's no

0:20:06.679,0:20:09.039
friction you don't slam in the wall so

0:20:09.039,0:20:11.360
it's falling

0:20:11.360,0:20:14.760
vertically I am it's preloading what

0:20:14.760,0:20:17.360
what just happened we tied the top I did

0:20:17.360,0:20:19.760
an eight knot at the bottom and now we

0:20:19.760,0:20:21.799
are elongating the Rope 80 kg are

0:20:21.799,0:20:23.720
sitting in the rope and just you know

0:20:23.720,0:20:26.520
okay so before the drop it's already

0:20:26.520,0:20:29.000
elongating for one minute I usually say

0:20:29.000,0:20:31.480
that this kind of activates the

0:20:31.480,0:20:34.640
Rope my minute was gone and now it's

0:20:34.640,0:20:37.120
going back

0:20:37.120,0:20:40.480
up opening again the clamps because now

0:20:40.480,0:20:43.120
we need to calibrate to measure the

0:20:43.120,0:20:46.840
exact length so at first you put some

0:20:46.840,0:20:49.720
weight on the Rope so it stretches to

0:20:49.720,0:20:53.440
certain degree yeah and only then you

0:20:53.440,0:20:57.440
are calibrating the length yeah so now I

0:20:57.440,0:20:59.880
put this two

0:20:59.880,0:21:03.720
then I let 10 kg

0:21:03.720,0:21:07.240
in so by doing this we make sure that

0:21:07.240,0:21:09.760
from here to there there will always be

0:21:09.760,0:21:12.520
the same sample length but it's not like

0:21:12.520,0:21:15.480
I am pulling here to to get it as tight

0:21:15.480,0:21:17.159
as possible and then comes another

0:21:17.159,0:21:19.080
tester and they maybe pull a little bit

0:21:19.080,0:21:22.080
more than me a little bit less then here

0:21:22.080,0:21:24.919
I'm just basically doing a mark with my

0:21:24.919,0:21:27.080
adding 3,000 and I'm not sponsored by

0:21:27.080,0:21:29.440
adding but it's just this is the marker

0:21:29.440,0:21:30.880
that you need to use for your ropes cuz

0:21:30.880,0:21:32.600
it doesn't hurt them it's very important

0:21:32.600,0:21:36.279
to Mark the Spot to see that the Rope

0:21:36.279,0:21:37.840
remained in the same position because if

0:21:37.840,0:21:39.720
it would slip somehow then you would

0:21:39.720,0:21:43.600
always deliver more or new material to

0:21:43.600,0:21:46.200
the deflection Edge you would get ah cuz

0:21:46.200,0:21:48.440
you are trying to hit always exactly the

0:21:48.440,0:21:50.919
same spot in every fall yeah if you have

0:21:50.919,0:21:52.840
a rope slippage in the clam then it's

0:21:52.840,0:21:54.799
enough un

0:21:54.799,0:21:57.840
result so now what it's hanging again

0:21:57.840,0:22:00.320
now it's hanging again again and I

0:22:00.320,0:22:01.720
thought you just going to drop and

0:22:01.720,0:22:05.279
that's it but like entire preparation

0:22:05.279,0:22:07.159
procedure and now this is actually the

0:22:07.159,0:22:08.960
most important part because after this

0:22:08.960,0:22:12.080
one we will read exactly the SLE sample

0:22:12.080,0:22:14.159
length so the the machine takes a

0:22:14.159,0:22:17.480
measurement of the length yes down to

0:22:17.480,0:22:19.720
the 01

0:22:19.720,0:22:25.480
mm so now it's just going to go Kaboom

0:22:27.120,0:22:31.120
yes oh man that's a big whipper on

0:22:31.120,0:22:35.679
this like okay so now this is our rope

0:22:35.679,0:22:38.159
as you see yeah it's like completely

0:22:38.159,0:22:40.440
going up you see there's no more there's

0:22:40.440,0:22:42.840
no stretch right okay so pretty much

0:22:42.840,0:22:44.960
every all the rope that you had is going

0:22:44.960,0:22:47.559
up there

0:22:53.480,0:22:57.799
yes wow that is like still a big bang

0:22:57.799,0:22:58.960
big bang

0:22:58.960,0:23:00.720
yeah imagine when it rips then it's a

0:23:00.720,0:23:05.000
real big bang so we had a 30% elongation

0:23:05.000,0:23:07.360
and Max Force was

0:23:07.360,0:23:10.240
8.85 K all right let's start with

0:23:10.240,0:23:12.640
elongation I thought that a stretchy

0:23:12.640,0:23:15.159
rope is a stretchy rope meaning that if

0:23:15.159,0:23:17.919
it has high static elongation it should

0:23:17.919,0:23:20.840
have high Dynamic elongation and while

0:23:20.840,0:23:23.760
there is a correlation at the same time

0:23:23.760,0:23:26.120
there are ropes with high Dynamic

0:23:26.120,0:23:29.080
elongation but low static and there are

0:23:29.080,0:23:32.120
ropes with high static elongation but

0:23:32.120,0:23:33.279
low

0:23:33.279,0:23:37.360
Dynamic interesting and actually what it

0:23:37.360,0:23:40.799
is really interesting to see is this

0:23:40.799,0:23:46.480
one that wasn't there 20 cm maybe 15 cm

0:23:46.480,0:23:50.799
yeah of just you know elongated rope now

0:23:50.799,0:23:53.559
we have a 5 minute waiting time and a

0:23:53.559,0:23:56.039
little bit of this elongation will go

0:23:56.039,0:24:01.520
back into place mhm but uh some part uh

0:24:01.520,0:24:04.480
will stay let's say stressed forever now

0:24:04.480,0:24:06.440
the second parameter we got from the

0:24:06.440,0:24:09.799
first drop is the impact Force which

0:24:09.799,0:24:12.159
according to the standard should not

0:24:12.159,0:24:15.679
exceed 12 kons but most ropes nowadays

0:24:15.679,0:24:19.360
will be between 7 and 1 half to 9 kons

0:24:19.360,0:24:22.279
anyways however Bill stood out with a

0:24:22.279,0:24:25.279
lot of low impact ropes so I was

0:24:25.279,0:24:29.240
wondering why and the answer Bec visible

0:24:29.240,0:24:33.159
once I plot elongation versus impact

0:24:33.159,0:24:35.679
Force turns out they make much

0:24:35.679,0:24:38.640
stretchier ropes so if you make a rope

0:24:38.640,0:24:40.840
which stretches more obviously that

0:24:40.840,0:24:44.039
helps to reduce the impact Force however

0:24:44.039,0:24:46.679
as I already explained more stretch is

0:24:46.679,0:24:49.440
not always better so a perfect rope

0:24:49.440,0:24:52.399
should minimize both elongation and the

0:24:52.399,0:24:55.279
impact Force now since I have this huge

0:24:55.279,0:24:58.559
database of rope specs I got curious so

0:24:58.559,0:25:00.600
which ropes do have the lowest

0:25:00.600,0:25:04.080
elongation and impact Force combined I

0:25:04.080,0:25:07.000
filtered out all super skinny and super

0:25:07.000,0:25:09.600
thick ropes since I don't like them and

0:25:09.600,0:25:11.880
voila a list of ropes with the best

0:25:11.880,0:25:14.600
Dynamic properties on

0:25:14.600,0:25:16.840
paper now are you going to feel the

0:25:16.840,0:25:21.480
difference if your rope is 10 to 20%

0:25:21.480,0:25:24.039
softer would be interesting to do maybe

0:25:24.039,0:25:26.760
some human testing to figure out but the

0:25:26.760,0:25:29.440
big elephant in the crack is that all of

0:25:29.440,0:25:31.840
those specs are taken from the first

0:25:31.840,0:25:34.799
fall only who knows how all of these

0:25:34.799,0:25:36.600
ropes are going to perform after

0:25:36.600,0:25:39.799
hundreds of Falls maybe softer ropes are

0:25:39.799,0:25:41.799
going to lose their Dynamic properties

0:25:41.799,0:25:44.559
even faster unfortunately at the moment

0:25:44.559,0:25:46.640
there is nothing in the standards that

0:25:46.640,0:25:49.279
would test long-term performance of

0:25:49.279,0:25:52.120
climbing ropes which is

0:25:52.120,0:25:54.919
sad so

0:25:54.919,0:25:58.399
UAA but let's continue with our tests

0:25:58.399,0:26:02.960
after five minutes rest we have another

0:26:05.399,0:26:08.919
drop and this rest drop process is

0:26:08.919,0:26:12.399
repeated until the Rope finally breaks

0:26:12.399,0:26:14.440
you already see this is like a super

0:26:14.440,0:26:16.799
harsh condition this is something that

0:26:16.799,0:26:20.840
even in reality is hard to replicate and

0:26:20.840,0:26:23.600
then in this s scenario we do this drop

0:26:23.600,0:26:26.120
over and over again only with a break of

0:26:26.120,0:26:28.600
5 minutes in between drops so the Rope

0:26:28.600,0:26:31.360
doesn't really have time to recover and

0:26:31.360,0:26:34.039
what you also need to think about that

0:26:34.039,0:26:36.799
you're dropping into the exact same

0:26:36.799,0:26:39.760
position each each time so the number of

0:26:39.760,0:26:41.559
how many of these false the rope with

0:26:41.559,0:26:43.799
stood is written on the packaging and

0:26:43.799,0:26:46.120
that number is there mainly to confuse

0:26:46.120,0:26:48.720
the new climbers into thinking that you

0:26:48.720,0:26:52.279
can only fall for let's say five FS but

0:26:52.279,0:26:54.679
in reality we never achieve such hard

0:26:54.679,0:26:57.279
Falls and you can fall for hundreds of

0:26:57.279,0:26:59.679
times before the ends of your Rob starts

0:26:59.679,0:27:02.919
to wear down also while on average fer

0:27:02.919,0:27:06.200
robes do have higher UIA full rating

0:27:06.200,0:27:08.520
some brands use bare minimum of five

0:27:08.520,0:27:12.240
Falls even for their beefy ropes so as

0:27:12.240,0:27:15.120
it stands for now this fall rating is

0:27:15.120,0:27:18.600
only an indicator that your rope is safe

0:27:18.600,0:27:22.240
rather than how long is it going to be

0:27:22.240,0:27:26.600
safe next test uiaa water test same

0:27:26.600,0:27:28.520
setup as before for the shift slippage

0:27:28.520,0:27:30.039
same machine the only thing that we're

0:27:30.039,0:27:32.039
going to change here is that we're

0:27:32.039,0:27:33.880
putting new bolts every single sample

0:27:33.880,0:27:36.840
that we do so it's a onetime use product

0:27:36.840,0:27:39.480
unfortunately not very sustainable but

0:27:39.480,0:27:41.640
if you wouldn't do it the inside of the

0:27:41.640,0:27:43.320
bolts would change over time because of

0:27:43.320,0:27:45.080
the abration of the Rope so these are

0:27:45.080,0:27:47.159
some of the the used ones so it's full

0:27:47.159,0:27:50.080
of fibers so the Rope goes through the

0:27:50.080,0:27:52.880
bolt yes and then as before you have

0:27:52.880,0:27:55.760
three bolts one gets pulled down this

0:27:55.760,0:27:57.760
one gets pulled this way and this one

0:27:57.760,0:27:59.880
gets pulled this way one goes that way

0:27:59.880,0:28:01.600
one goes that way and one go this one

0:28:01.600,0:28:04.279
goes down so now you and I have to pull

0:28:04.279,0:28:06.440
this back and forth oh and and me as

0:28:06.440,0:28:08.399
well yeah of course how do you do this

0:28:08.399,0:28:11.159
alone I just run back and forth so I

0:28:11.159,0:28:14.919
pull yeah oh W try to keep it as level

0:28:14.919,0:28:18.840
as possible stop and now follow

0:28:18.840,0:28:20.480
me

0:28:20.480,0:28:24.519
yeah this is a warm up for

0:28:24.600,0:28:30.120
climbing know what would be funny m

0:28:31.650,0:28:34.360
[Laughter]

0:28:34.360,0:28:36.559
I expected

0:28:36.559,0:28:40.480
it so now we have more fluffy rope yeah

0:28:40.480,0:28:42.919
and we do this to simulate a a rope in

0:28:42.919,0:28:45.200
normal use we do not want to do this

0:28:45.200,0:28:47.480
water test on a brand new rope because

0:28:47.480,0:28:50.039
it would not be

0:28:50.159,0:28:54.080
realistic and then oh the fumes are

0:28:54.080,0:28:58.880
delicious now 24 hours 23

0:28:58.880,0:29:01.640
50% humidity another time sensitive

0:29:01.640,0:29:04.840
Endeavor yes so now I'm going to take a

0:29:04.840,0:29:08.720
sample the one you and I prepared

0:29:12.170,0:29:14.240
[Music]

0:29:14.240,0:29:17.519
yesterday let's

0:29:19.240,0:29:23.080
go basically it is important to to be

0:29:23.080,0:29:30.039
fast on this one okay so put my C in

0:29:30.799,0:29:32.360
and I make sure that there's water

0:29:32.360,0:29:36.760
running on top of it now I start my time

0:29:36.760,0:29:40.559
I'm checking the water flow per minute

0:29:40.559,0:29:43.399
so it is not submerging the Rope

0:29:43.399,0:29:46.600
completely under water 2 L per minute

0:29:46.600,0:29:49.399
plus - 02 and then the water is running

0:29:49.399,0:29:52.720
on top of our fuzzy prepared rope and

0:29:52.720,0:29:54.080
you see here it's really important that

0:29:54.080,0:29:56.559
your ends are sealed otherwise the water

0:29:56.559,0:29:59.039
will just you know go in

0:29:59.039,0:30:03.080
rather than stay outside with a dry

0:30:03.080,0:30:05.519
treatment it looks like the end of the

0:30:05.519,0:30:07.320
Rope is pissing a little bit yeah a

0:30:07.320,0:30:09.600
little bit and it's going to take now 15

0:30:09.600,0:30:11.760
minutes so we can 15 minutes we can go

0:30:11.760,0:30:13.399
for a

0:30:13.399,0:30:16.120
coffee okay now our 15 minutes are done

0:30:16.120,0:30:20.159
I need to take it off place here and

0:30:20.159,0:30:23.240
just drop

0:30:23.240,0:30:26.840
it that is funny three times that is

0:30:26.840,0:30:29.960
very funny change

0:30:31.039,0:30:32.360
do the

0:30:32.360,0:30:37.720
same on the other side now I place it

0:30:37.720,0:30:41.080
here and now we it's time to weigh it so

0:30:41.080,0:30:44.200
what are you aiming for we usually are

0:30:44.200,0:30:47.760
around 1% maybe a bit less to claim that

0:30:47.760,0:30:50.960
it's a dry rope when you do this

0:30:50.960,0:30:54.399
test she's good at this what she's

0:30:54.399,0:30:56.480
really good at this are we ready to go

0:30:56.480,0:30:58.440
to the weekend

0:30:58.440,0:31:00.240
are we ready to go to the weekend we're

0:31:00.240,0:31:04.320
talking about the dry limits sorry so

0:31:04.320,0:31:07.639
yeah usually to declare that your

0:31:07.639,0:31:10.320
water now while digging through all the

0:31:10.320,0:31:12.679
different manufacturer websites I found

0:31:12.679,0:31:15.039
out that there are a lot of different

0:31:15.039,0:31:18.399
dry treatments with different labels

0:31:18.399,0:31:20.440
sometimes the treatments are added only

0:31:20.440,0:31:23.080
to the Shi sometimes both the sheath and

0:31:23.080,0:31:25.240
the cor and sometimes they are better

0:31:25.240,0:31:29.000
for our planet and labeled as PF F C3

0:31:29.000,0:31:31.159
but just because the Rope is treated

0:31:31.159,0:31:33.840
with something it doesn't mean that it's

0:31:33.840,0:31:37.919
past UIA water repellent test to have

0:31:37.919,0:31:41.159
UIA water repellent label the Rope needs

0:31:41.159,0:31:44.720
to absorb less than 5% of water and if

0:31:44.720,0:31:46.679
you want to learn more about what

0:31:46.679,0:31:48.720
happens when the water penetrates the

0:31:48.720,0:31:51.519
Rope I have made a video showing exactly

0:31:51.519,0:31:55.960
that both in theory and in

0:31:56.080,0:31:59.120
experiments [ __ ] there's the lad coming

0:31:59.120,0:32:02.360
out and as a side note dry treatment not

0:32:02.360,0:32:05.240
only blocks the water from entering but

0:32:05.240,0:32:08.760
also the dust which can greatly increase

0:32:08.760,0:32:11.279
the lifespan of the Rope we also tried

0:32:11.279,0:32:14.120
washing the rope and see if that helps

0:32:14.120,0:32:16.840
so yeah that's another Shameless plug of

0:32:16.840,0:32:19.960
my previous videos what the

0:32:19.960,0:32:23.760
hell yeah she's using the

0:32:23.760,0:32:27.240
heels hi Mobility people hi Mobility you

0:32:27.240,0:32:30.679
have shorter legs hey no no leg short

0:32:30.679,0:32:32.880
leg

0:32:33.559,0:32:36.240
shaving you can't even put your legs on

0:32:36.240,0:32:38.399
the

0:32:38.630,0:32:41.120
[Music]

0:32:41.120,0:32:43.760
pedals

0:32:43.760,0:32:47.679
wo I just did a wheelie I'm just doing a

0:32:47.679,0:32:50.760
wheelie do this I need to Le more

0:32:50.760,0:32:52.639
forward so I

0:32:52.639,0:32:56.120
didn't I'm going I'm going I'm going

0:32:56.120,0:32:59.559
he's going so sometimes I get U

0:32:59.559,0:33:02.039
impressed by the amount of people who

0:33:02.039,0:33:04.240
watch my videos when I'm making and I'm

0:33:04.240,0:33:06.960
filming I'm just here alone and it's so

0:33:06.960,0:33:09.799
hard to imagine so many of you watching

0:33:09.799,0:33:13.639
this so thank you I appreciate it it's

0:33:13.639,0:33:16.720
super nice and thank you for mammut for

0:33:16.720,0:33:21.760
sharing all of these geeky topics with

0:33:23.320,0:33:26.840
us yeah