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RC3-Music
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Herald: So our next speaker is Rick Panin
with his talk vapor phase, soldiering with
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the deep fryer. So Rick has been doing
hardware design design for some time now.
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He actually considers himself a full stack
developer from the hardware world. So
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basically going from software to hardware,
it's everything from doing circuits to
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firmware development on embedded Linux. He
usually does his stuff in small series
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production in order to be able to give out
some of the samples to the community where
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he's also been spending a bunch of time.
He's trying to slowly move the process of
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being able to do as much as possible in-
house. And this talk is a result of that
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process. Please give a great round of
applause, at least at home to Rick Panin.
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Thank you.
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Rick: Hi, welcome to my talk "Vapour phase
soldering with a deep fryer". In this
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talk, I first explain the reflow process
in detail and then I'll show you how
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vapour phase soldering works and how to do
it with a cheap, deep fryer. Reflow
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soldering basically consists of three
steps. First, you apply some solder paste
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to a circuit board. Then you place your
components onto the solder paste, and
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finally, you apply some heat to do the
extra soldering. For that, you need some
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solder paste, solder paste comes in 100
thousand varieties. Most of them have as
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different melting points and different
ingredients, but the common lead-free
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paste that you use these days melt about
210 to 225 degrees Celsius. And the
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majority of the solder paste has a limited
shelf life and has to be kept in a fridge
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if you're not using it. So for home use, I
would recommend using the solder paste
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that comes in syringes because it's a
lesser amount and it probably won't go bad
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unless you use a lot of solder paste.
Also, it's a bit easier to apply it.
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All Solder paste comes with temperature
profile that tells you exactly how many
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seconds you should ramp up the temperature
to a certain amount and then you have a
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soaking phase where for several seconds
you keep the temperature at the same point
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and then for a very short amount of time,
you ramp up the temperature to the reflow
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phase. That's when the actual soldiering
happens and then you have to remove the
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temperature to cool it down. For applying
the solder paste, there are two basic
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methods. The first one is a direct paste
application, so you can do that manually
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by just taking a syringe and applying a
small amount of solder paste to each pad
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where you want to put your SMD components.
Then the next step would be a modified CMC
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mill or a 3D printer where you put in a
solder paste syringe as a tool head and
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then load in your paste layer from your
electronics design software and the
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printer, then or the CMC mill
automatically applies the solder paste to
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the pads on the board. And for industrial
applications, there are also inkjet
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printer like devices that apply the solder
paste automatically to PCBs. But these
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devices are very expensive and probably
not suitable for home use. For home users,
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I would recommend getting a stencil for
solder paste applications because stencil
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have become very cheap and the recent
years, and it's much simpler to apply the
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solder paste with the stencil than doing
it manually. So stencils can be used also
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in different ways. The simple and cheapest
one is just putting your boards on a desk
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and using some tape to apply your stencil
to it. So you position it over your board
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and then you fix it to your desk. And
after that, you use a rake to wipe your
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solder paste to the board. I will show
that later in the demo. For home users, I
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would definitely recommend getting
frameless stencils when you order a
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stencil in your PCB house, you can always
you always have a checkbox where you can
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say, I want a frame or no frame. The first
time I ordered a stencil, I took the frame
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version and that looks like this. So you
get a gigantic thing and there in the
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middle, it's actually my ... can we see
it. Maybe like this. There are. This is
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the actual board and this is the stencil
on it has some, some aluminum framing
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around it, and that's definitely very
expensive for shipping. So you'd rather
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want something like this. So a frameless
stencil that can be used very easily for
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the method where you just put it on your
desk. If you do a lot of the same boards,
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then there are stencil printers, manual
stencil printers. That's where you use the
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stencils with a frame. But these stencil
printers are not cheap, and I think the
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the tape on desk method is pretty simple
to use. So unless you make a batch
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production of boards, I would always just
get the frame, the stencil and do it on
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your desk. For industrial environments,
there are automatic stencil printers that
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have a conveyor belt pull in the PCB, do
all the positioning and then automatically
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apply the solder paste to the stencil.
After you have put the solder paste on
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your board, then you need to place your
components. Again, the cheapest way and
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what what most home users will do is just
take all the components manually with some
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tweezers and put it on your board because
of the way that reflow soldiering works.
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And you will see that later in the demo.
You don't have to position them too
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exactly because the surface tension of the
solder paste when it starts to melt will
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pull the the components into position. So
you don't have to be too precise with
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positioning, you shouldn't place it right
next to the footprint. But if if it's not
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exactly where it should be, then this
should be resolved while in the reflow
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soldering process later. So I would always
be recommending getting some good
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tweezers. If you do the manual placement
and not using the two euro things from the
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DIY store because they will bend easily
and so some good tweezers really help the
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process. The next step would be a pick and
place machine that takes a file from your
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design program that has all the positions
of the components and the rotation that it
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needs after picking up the components from
a reel or from a tray, and then use this
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little suction cups to to place the
components on the board. These have become
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a little bit cheaper in the recent years,
but it's quite a hassle to to program it
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for a lot of components. So unless you're
doing more than 20 boards or so, it's not
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really worth getting a pick and place
machine and programing it and getting all
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of the rotation and and the pick up
correctly. So, yeah, for projects where
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you do one to five boards, always do the
manual placement and then in industrial
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environments, there are also these pick
and place machine like in the mill. But
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for very high volume production, there are
also machines called chipshooters that
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have a revolving turret that picks up
components and then shoot them to the PCB.
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Once your components are placed on the
board, you will need to solder it. And the
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cheapest method here is to use a hot air
gun. If you ever did this, you will know
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that it's not as easy as it looks. So you
set your hot air gun to a temperature and
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you set the airflow. And often, if you set
the airflow too high, then you blow your
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components off the board. Or if you set
the temperature, you too high. You burn
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some components or you de-solder stuff
that you don't want to de-solder on other
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parts of the board. So it's mostly used if
you do replacement of single components.
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So you want to rework a chip or replace
one or if you do really just a few
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components, then this can also be the
method to use. But I'd always recommend if
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you do that, then use some solder paste
that has a lower melting point. So I
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listed one from ChipQuick here that I am
using for hot air reflowing and that melts
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at just 135 degrees C, so that makes it
way easier to get the setting right on
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your hot air gun. The next thing is using
a modified pizza oven, so you get a pizza
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oven and you put some thermal couples into
it to have a good temperature measurement.
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And then most hobby users add some
controller, for example, in arduino based
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controller that then tries to keep the
temperature profile that you've seen on
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the solder paste. That works well for some
stuff, but because some of these ovens
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have these heating coils on the top, you
have to be really careful with the
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placement of your PCB underneath it
because there are some spots that are
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hotter and somewhat colder, and in
general, it's it's hard to get good
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results with a pizza oven. Often you have
to add some some airflow to get a better
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distribution of the temperature. Sometimes
it's hard to ramp up the temperature fast
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enough, and it's kind of a hassle. So I
also use this method, and that's why I
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switched to vapour phase soldering,
because that's the process that is much
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easier to control at home. In industrial
environments, you have large reflow ovens
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that have different zones with different
temperature, and then you have a conveyor
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belt and your PCB goes on this conveyor
belt through the oven and through the
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different zones and then by just adjusting
the speed of the conveyor. It's very easy
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to control the heat that is applied to the
board. Instead of using an oven for reflow
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soldering, you can also use vapor phase
solder. And that's a very simple concept
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that has been around since the 1970s. That
works by using a phase chamber with a
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heater on the bottom phase chambers just
as sophisticated word for cooking pot. So,
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yeah, just like a cooking pot, you have
some kind of container and underneath it
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you have a heat source and then inside of
the container you have a liquid called
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Galden. Galden is liquid plastic that has
some very unique properties. So the most
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important one is that it has a boiling
temperature of about 200 degrees. So there
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is Galden for different temperatures, just
like solder paste. So there's one that
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evaporates at 170 degrees, and some that
evaporates up to 260 degrees. And now,
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when you apply heat to this Galden, at
some point it begins to boil and then it
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forms a vapor that is heavier than air, so
it stays at the bottom of this chamber.
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And that way, you'll have a low
temperature on the top of the chamber and
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a higher temperature on the bottom of the
chamber, and the temperature will be
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exactly the boiling temperature of the
Galden. So it's just like with water. If
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you cook water, then you get water vapor.
And unless you put it under pressure, the
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water vapor will have exactly 100 degrees
and not more. And that's just like with
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the Galden vapor that if you have gotten
that is has a boiling point of 230
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degrees, then the vapor will have exactly
230 degrees. And unless all the Galden in
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the phase chamber has evaporated, nothing
will change. So you can never get it to a
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high temperature. And in most of these
chambers, for vapor phase soldering, you
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also have a cooling system on the top. So
because the Galden is pretty expensive,
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you don't want to lose any of it. Now, if
you put a PCB in this chamber and slowly
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lower it into the vapor, then the
temperature on the PCB will slowly rise to
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the Galden boiling temperature. And as
this Galden vapor condensates on the parts
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of the PCB and it does it everywhere where
the vapor attaches to the PCB, then it
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will very evenly heat up all the
components and also the solder paste on
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the PCB to exactly the Galden's boiling
temperature. And that way, you have a
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process that's very easy to control
because it's not really possible to
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overheat your components, or the solder
paste. So by timing the lowering and the
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lifting of the PCB into the vapor, you can
very nicely follow the temperature profile
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of your soldering paste. One drawback of
this process is that the Galden is very
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expensive. So, if you have a large
industrial vapor phase reflow oven, you
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need some liters of it. And as you see,
five liters costs about a thousand
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dollars. But for the process I'm showing
now with the small deep fryer, you just
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need a very small amount. So I use about
250 ml, and at least in Europe, you can
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get 400 milliliters of the 230 degree
Galden at Beta Layout for €88. So for the
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deep fryer vapour phase soldering, you
need to buy a deep fryer for about 100
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euros and Galden in for 90 euros, so the
whole process can be done for under 200
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euros. And if you're worried about the
safety, Galden this actually very safe
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because it's basically inert. So it's no
problem if you breathe in the vapor or if
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you even swallow it the. The Safety
instructions that come with the Galden say
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if you breathe it in, then you should go
outside and take two or three deep
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breaths. And if you swallow it, you should
drink two glasses of water. In an
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industrial environment, you have these
large vapor phase machines that also use
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the conveyor belt and automate the whole
process. And these are very expensive, but
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for lab use and prototyping. There are
these smaller machines that also cost a
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couple of thousand euros, but they are
basically a container with a heater on the
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bottom, a temperature probe and some kind
of controller. And these are exactly the
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same as deep fryers. So deep fryers also
have some kind of heating coil at the
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bottom, and they have the controller and
somewhere there's a temperature probe to
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keep the temperature that you set on the
controller. And I've looked at lots of
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these devices, and finally, I found one
that fits very good to my use case and the
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size of the boards that I'm usually making
and that that is a WMF mini fryer. It is
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quite small and it has a lid that is
sealed, so there's not much vapor escaping
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and a very nice thing, is that when the
lid is closed by turning the handle, you
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can lower and lift the basket inside. It
has a container that can be taken out.
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That is quite flat on the bottom. And that
is also important because if you have the
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heating coils inside of the container, you
need a lot of the expensive Galden to put
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that much in it, that it's that it fills
it up to cover the heating rods. And
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because of the heating rod here is in the
bottom, that's you just need to about 250
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millimeters. So the whole bottom is
covered with Galden. The temperature
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sensor in this device is just at the point
where the if you put in cooking oil, then
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it's just where the lower level indicator
is on the container and the temperature
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sensor is basically outside, and it
measures the temperature of the container
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at a certain height. When we're using this
for a vapor phase soldering this
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temperature sensor will be above the
liquid, which is pretty nice because it
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will basically measure the temperature of
the vapor and not of the liquid. The only
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drawback is that it can just be set to one
hundred and ninety degrees and not more,
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which is, I think, kind of due to the fact
that you shouldn't try something like
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potatoes with a higher temperature because
there can be some cancerous stuff
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developing if you fry it with too much
heat. But that's no problem for vapor
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phase soldiering. So we have to somehow
modify it that we can turn the temperature
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higher. Fortunately, this device doesn't
have any electronics. It's all pretty
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discreet. So it has the temperature probe
and that has a certain resistance. And
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then you have the knob in front where you
set the temperature and you. That's also
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just a potential meter where you set a
resistance and then it just compares the
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resistance of the temperature probe to the
resistance that you set on this potential
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meter. And if it's higher, it switches off
the heater. So the you would just have to
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turn the knob a little bit further than
you can to have a higher temperature range
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on that device, and you can do that by
opening up the button. And then there's a
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little metal piece that stops the
potential meter from turning too far. You
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can take a screwdriver and bend that up a
bit, and I guess it works the same for all
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of the cheap deep fryers on the market.
And so they should be all basically the
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same and just have a mechanical limiter
that can be removed. So you you bend up
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this metal piece and then you screw the
bottom part back on. And then there's the
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second limiter that you see when you take
off the knob on the front. There's a
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little plastic part that also stops the
knob from turning to fall. So just take a
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sharp knife and cut away that plastic
part, and then you can turn the knob as
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far as you want. To prevent too much of
the precious Galden to escape through the
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lid, we also need to add some cooling. I
just used an old PC cooler that I found
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somewhere in my basement. I also wanted to
add water cooler at some point and looked
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at some water coolers for graphics cards.
But the ones I found were too expensive or
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not really available or not really
fitting. But I'm still looking to add
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that, and then probably I would lose even
less Galden through the lid. So now let me
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show you how that all works. Here, I
prepared the board and gluing it with some
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double sided tape onto my desk and at some
some old boards around it, the upper one I
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also glued to the board. Then I put the
stencil on it, taped it onto the other
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board and used again and old board to rake
the solder paste over it. And as you can
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see, that works pretty nicely. So it's not
that hard to use a total paste. No, I'm
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putting some components to the bottom and
I have attached temperature probe to the
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basket. You don't really need that. It's
just for this demo to show to show how it
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works. The temperature probe is not
working really well, so it's not 30
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degrees where I'm doing this. It's plus
minus 10 degrees. I think it was damaged
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at some point. So you make sure that this
enough Galden, that the whole bottom of
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the container is covered with it. Then you
put your basket with your board on it and
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switch on the deep fryer. So I put it to
about where 210 degrees would be if it
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would be on the scale. And then it takes
about three to four minutes until some
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vapor is forming on the top of the PCB.
Here I waited a bit too long because I had
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to it figure how to handle the camera. So,
you see, it's already starting to solder.
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So I should have known it much sooner. But
now, I'm lowering it. And as we can see,
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the temperature is rising quickly to where
it should be. And here you see through the
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glass how the solder works and how the
components are pulled into place by the
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surface tension of the solder paste. And
yeah, you can just watch it through this
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window and see when everything is nice and
shiny and everything is soldered. And then
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you switch off the deep fryer, raise the
basket again and wait for a few minutes
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for it to cool down. I didn't wait long
enough. So you see this some vapor
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escaping. It's not dangerous, but it's
expensive, so you should maybe wait a bit
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longer. And now you see we have a nicely
soldered board.
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Herald: Thank you so much, Rick. I think
it's really cool, like reducing the
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friction in this entire process. I think
it's important to keep make sure that it's
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possible to like innovate with like low
amounts of resources because as we've seen
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before with the community, like, that's
really something that drives things
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forward. So questions and I was actually
thinking about something myself like this
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entire process. Like what has been one of
the biggest obstacles? Because like
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watching the talk, it seems like you've
really overcome everything among the way
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when there was a little itch or something
like what has actually proved to have been
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00:28:15,049 --> 00:28:17,220
a problem because I guess there must have
been something .
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Rick: The biggest problem was finding the
right deep fryer. So I, yeah, I ordered I
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think about three different ones and now
every now and then, I'm using my browser.
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I get some advertisements for kitchen
appliance and that would last for some
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time. But yeah, finding one that can be
modified easily. And that has this this
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flat bottom. So yeah, I had ordered a lot
of them and send them back. But finding
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the right ones and then the process is
pretty easy once you have the right one.
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Also, the modification takes just a few
minutes.
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Herald: Sounds a lot like trial and error
and that part. I mean, it's awesome that
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00:29:10,570 --> 00:29:14,900
it worked out and I guess I guess like
it's just part of the process with like
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00:29:14,900 --> 00:29:20,600
the advertising stuff.
Rick: So, yeah, if you if you do something
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like that and want to misuse of pot and
then use a private browser, chat for that
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00:29:26,810 --> 00:29:31,210
because I'm not really interested in
kitchen appliances. But the algorithm
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doesn't know that.
Herald: That's that's great. Yeah, just
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just. And now we will be taking the
questions that have come in through the
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internet. And so one person is asking, So
if the Galden is 230 degrees, can it be?
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Can the solder be lead-free? The solder
paste, basically.
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Rick: Yeah, yeah, I'm using lead-free
solder, Yeah, it doesn't make sense to use
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leaded solder with with this process
because it works just fine. I know a lot
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of people who who do who use the pizza
oven method, all the cheap Chinese reflow
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00:30:17,950 --> 00:30:23,680
oven they use that as solder paste just
because it's easier to get the lower
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temperature right. But for this, it really
doesn't matter. So it works great. This is
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leaded solder paste. And also in the demo,
I used to lead-free solder paste.
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Herald: That's awesome, I think that was
an important thing to to to be able to
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00:30:40,889 --> 00:30:45,600
have to figure out. So another person is
asking So with the discussion about
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fluorinated chemicals, is there a need to
revisit the safety classification of the
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Galden or like, is that fine?
Rick: I think so. So you're really using
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just a little of it and there is as long
as you don't heat it up too much, it's
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completely safe. If if you would manage to
somehow heat up the gun above 290 degrees,
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it would break down and there would be
some hydrochloric acid coming out of it.
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That would be very, very bad. But so so
you have to make really sure that you have
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enough Galden in it because the only way
that that could happen, that you heat up
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00:31:28,760 --> 00:31:34,299
the vapor to too much, I think, would be
to put too little in it. If it's just a
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very little bit in it, it could be that
the bottom gets too hot and then it could
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00:31:38,889 --> 00:31:46,080
break down. But you really it's hard to to
get the vapor above 290 degrees if it's
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00:31:46,080 --> 00:31:52,409
not under pressure or anything. So I think
it's pretty safe and it lasts very long.
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00:31:52,409 --> 00:31:56,890
So I probably I bought this 400
milliliters and it probably will last
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00:31:56,890 --> 00:32:05,409
forever. From time to time, there's some
residue in the in the Galden, but you can
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00:32:05,409 --> 00:32:10,169
just run it through a coffee filter and
then it's fine again. So it's you're not
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00:32:10,169 --> 00:32:14,909
really using it up. It's it's just like a
tool and then it will last a very long
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00:32:14,909 --> 00:32:18,980
time.
Herald: So I and extending and the last
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00:32:18,980 --> 00:32:22,450
thing, so someone who is a bit freaked out
with chemicals and stuff like that, for
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00:32:22,450 --> 00:32:26,870
instance, me like, how do you actually go
about it? Like, what's the absolute worst
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00:32:26,870 --> 00:32:30,159
thing that could happen?
Rick: The worst thing is the hydrochloric
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00:32:30,159 --> 00:32:35,830
acid forming when when you get it too hot.
So it's something so I would recommend to.
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00:32:35,830 --> 00:32:42,809
If you do that, do that outside. Take all
the precautions use safety goggles, use,
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00:32:42,809 --> 00:32:49,660
use gloves and maybe also use your FFP2
mask if you're if you're really afraid of
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00:32:49,660 --> 00:32:54,830
it. And then if you if you do it outside
and and never look away, if if Y-, they're
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00:32:54,830 --> 00:33:00,240
using it. So if you're done using it or if
you walk away from it, disconnected from
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00:33:00,240 --> 00:33:06,230
the power. And yeah, as with everything.
So so it's really hot when you don't want
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00:33:06,230 --> 00:33:12,380
something that's 230 degrees on your on
your hands. So. So just don't be stupid.
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00:33:12,380 --> 00:33:18,530
Herald: Sounds like a sane precaution.
Rick: But the government is actually. So
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00:33:18,530 --> 00:33:23,710
if you have seen the film The Abyss, it's
it's an old science fiction movie where
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00:33:23,710 --> 00:33:29,299
they are underwater and they are breathing
in a liquid. Was that his oxygen in it to
295
00:33:29,299 --> 00:33:33,760
go deeper? And that is actually the same
stuff. And there are. You can find
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00:33:33,760 --> 00:33:38,960
pictures on the internet where they have
rats in and in small (glasses) with the
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00:33:38,960 --> 00:33:45,330
stuff in it, and they're breathing it. And
so it's really, yeah, unless you make it
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00:33:45,330 --> 00:33:48,350
too hot, it's really inert and it doesn't
react with anything.
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00:33:48,350 --> 00:33:53,010
Herald: I'll refrain from asking you how
the movie ends.
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00:33:53,010 --> 00:34:00,960
Rick: I think there is a lot that I think
I've seen it, but
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00:34:00,960 --> 00:34:08,910
Herald: No worries. The next question is
do you need to do you need to remove the
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00:34:08,910 --> 00:34:12,870
condensed Galden vapour from the
components or how does that work?
303
00:34:12,870 --> 00:34:22,220
Rick: Um, there's actually very little on
it. So they feel dry. So I don't I don't
304
00:34:22,220 --> 00:34:29,010
clean the boards afterwards. I think I
think that's fine and there's not really
305
00:34:29,010 --> 00:34:34,869
much left. So, yeah, the stuff condensing
on it. But I think most of it drops down
306
00:34:34,869 --> 00:34:40,050
and they're not wet to the touch yourself.
So, yeah, I don't I don't clean the boards
307
00:34:40,050 --> 00:34:43,770
afterwards.
Herald: OK. I think it's good in these
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00:34:43,770 --> 00:34:47,389
kinds of situations to like, figure out
what someone who's a bit more experienced
309
00:34:47,389 --> 00:34:54,159
or very more experienced like yourself
basically handles and doesn't that kind of
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00:34:54,159 --> 00:35:00,780
situation. So one of the next questions is
that if whether you have checked, if the
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00:35:00,780 --> 00:35:05,050
plastic can safely be heated to 250
degrees and I think they're basically
312
00:35:05,050 --> 00:35:10,950
referring to the deep fryer here,
Rick: oh, that's that's all on. There are
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00:35:10,950 --> 00:35:18,350
some plastic parts, but the container is
this metal and there there is on the top
314
00:35:18,350 --> 00:35:24,040
lid there are some plastic parts. I've
made some experiments first and nothing
315
00:35:24,040 --> 00:35:30,470
melted. But yeah, I have to see you see
what happens. I've used it, I don't know,
316
00:35:30,470 --> 00:35:37,619
10 or 20 times, and it's fine until now.
But yeah, yeah, probably. This device is
317
00:35:37,619 --> 00:35:42,180
not made for that kind of heat, but it's
made for 190 degrees and up 230 is not too
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00:35:42,180 --> 00:35:49,890
far from that. So until now, it (keeps) up
nicely. But again, it's a hack it's not
319
00:35:49,890 --> 00:35:56,960
really, really made for this. For me, it
works fine, but you have to be careful if
320
00:35:56,960 --> 00:36:04,230
you try it out yourself.
Herald: Cool. Thank you. I will just check
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00:36:04,230 --> 00:36:09,100
if there are any like last under falling
or real questions, I don't know how you
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00:36:09,100 --> 00:36:13,770
say that in English. And I think that was
actually everything for now. So as I said
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00:36:13,770 --> 00:36:17,500
previously Rick, like, thank you so much.
It's it's really great, especially
324
00:36:17,500 --> 00:36:22,810
considering that as the more you can take
in at home, the easier and faster this
325
00:36:22,810 --> 00:36:27,220
process will be and basically also lower
the cost. And like I at least personally
326
00:36:27,220 --> 00:36:32,640
feel that that's very important. So I want
to say thank you. And I think that the
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00:36:32,640 --> 00:36:36,790
audience agrees with me. So thanks a lot.
OK,
328
00:36:36,790 --> 00:36:40,599
Rick: Then. Yeah, have fun soloing at
home.
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00:36:40,599 --> 00:36:51,850
Herald: We will. Thanks. Bye
Rick:bye
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