[Script Info] Title: [Events] Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text Dialogue: 0,0:00:01.61,0:00:03.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- It says kilonewtons... Dialogue: 0,0:00:04.83,0:00:06.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And after this video, Dialogue: 0,0:00:06.70,0:00:09.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you will have a much better understanding Dialogue: 0,0:00:09.24,0:00:12.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than probably 99% of the\Nrest of the climbers, Dialogue: 0,0:00:12.94,0:00:16.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what these kilonewtons actually mean, Dialogue: 0,0:00:16.01,0:00:20.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and what forces are involved\Nin real climbing falls. Dialogue: 0,0:00:20.42,0:00:23.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then I will explain\Nwhy big, big whippers Dialogue: 0,0:00:23.71,0:00:27.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are often much softer than small falls. Dialogue: 0,0:00:27.14,0:00:30.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But first, let's find out what is force. Dialogue: 0,0:00:30.28,0:00:32.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I like to play with my\NInstagram followers, Dialogue: 0,0:00:32.61,0:00:36.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so I decided to ask them\Nwhat comes to their mind Dialogue: 0,0:00:36.31,0:00:38.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when they hear the word force. Dialogue: 0,0:00:38.71,0:00:40.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Half of the people said Dialogue: 0,0:00:40.04,0:00:43.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that it has something\Nto do with "Star Wars". Dialogue: 0,0:00:43.44,0:00:44.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fair enough. Dialogue: 0,0:00:44.59,0:00:46.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then before you start thinking Dialogue: 0,0:00:46.48,0:00:50.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that half of my Instagram\Nfollowers are really smart, Dialogue: 0,0:00:50.64,0:00:53.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I have to say that majority\Nof them didn't vote it at all. Dialogue: 0,0:00:53.87,0:00:55.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So I imagine something like... Dialogue: 0,0:00:55.41,0:00:57.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What is force? Dialogue: 0,0:00:57.88,0:01:00.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(lively music)\N(electronic buzzing) Dialogue: 0,0:01:00.60,0:01:03.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, but those who wanted to sound smart Dialogue: 0,0:01:03.06,0:01:07.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,said that force is mass\Ntimes acceleration, Dialogue: 0,0:01:07.15,0:01:09.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is the formula\Nthat Newton, this guy, Dialogue: 0,0:01:09.86,0:01:10.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,came up with. Dialogue: 0,0:01:10.92,0:01:11.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Newton] Ooh yah. Dialogue: 0,0:01:11.82,0:01:14.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that's why we\Nmeasure force in Newtons. Dialogue: 0,0:01:14.40,0:01:17.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which to me is a little bit\Nfunny when you think about it, Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.21,0:01:18.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,imagine Newton. Dialogue: 0,0:01:18.55,0:01:21.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(gentle music) Dialogue: 0,0:01:22.23,0:01:24.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we measure mass in kilograms, Dialogue: 0,0:01:27.56,0:01:32.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and we measure acceleration\Nin meters per second squared. Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.48,0:01:40.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then we should measure force in Newtons. Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.06,0:01:42.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(clapping) Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.96,0:01:45.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So to put this formula into perspective, Dialogue: 0,0:01:45.43,0:01:48.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's like one Newton, this guy, Dialogue: 0,0:01:48.99,0:01:52.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is pushing one kilogram of mass Dialogue: 0,0:01:52.25,0:01:55.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that makes that mass to accelerate Dialogue: 0,0:01:55.33,0:01:58.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,by one meter per second, every second. Dialogue: 0,0:01:58.87,0:02:01.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here I have a carabiner. Dialogue: 0,0:02:01.56,0:02:06.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If I put all my weight on it, like so, Dialogue: 0,0:02:06.47,0:02:08.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the question is, what's\Nthe force right now Dialogue: 0,0:02:08.84,0:02:10.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,into this carabiner? Dialogue: 0,0:02:10.11,0:02:12.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if we look back to the formula, Dialogue: 0,0:02:12.47,0:02:15.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we can say that mass is my mass Dialogue: 0,0:02:15.92,0:02:18.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,multiplied by acceleration. Dialogue: 0,0:02:19.35,0:02:21.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What acceleration?\NI'm hanging on a tree. Dialogue: 0,0:02:21.30,0:02:24.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is no movement,\Nno acceleration... Dialogue: 0,0:02:24.94,0:02:28.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or is there an acceleration? Dialogue: 0,0:02:28.18,0:02:29.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(upbeat music) Dialogue: 0,0:02:29.88,0:02:33.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Look, so you've probably\Nseen this experiment before, Dialogue: 0,0:02:33.79,0:02:37.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I have heavy object and a light object. Dialogue: 0,0:02:37.50,0:02:39.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the question is, if I let go Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.41,0:02:41.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,both of them at the same time, Dialogue: 0,0:02:41.64,0:02:43.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which one is gonna hit the ground first? Dialogue: 0,0:02:45.22,0:02:46.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's try. Dialogue: 0,0:02:55.91,0:02:58.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So yes, they fell at the same time, Dialogue: 0,0:02:58.56,0:03:00.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because that's what gravity does, Dialogue: 0,0:03:00.27,0:03:04.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it makes objects fall at\Nexactly the same acceleration Dialogue: 0,0:03:04.37,0:03:08.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of 9.8 meters per second per second. Dialogue: 0,0:03:15.79,0:03:18.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So then I'm hanging on this carabiner, Dialogue: 0,0:03:18.51,0:03:20.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gravity is pulling me down. Dialogue: 0,0:03:20.39,0:03:23.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But in order for me to not move down, Dialogue: 0,0:03:23.29,0:03:27.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there must be opposite force,\Nwhich would be pulling me up. Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.27,0:03:29.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Here I have a spring. Dialogue: 0,0:03:29.49,0:03:32.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While the gravity is\Npulling the rock down, Dialogue: 0,0:03:32.67,0:03:35.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the spring is pulling the rock up. Dialogue: 0,0:03:35.37,0:03:39.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So the carabiner is actually\Nlike a very, very stiff spring, Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.23,0:03:41.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is pulling me up. Dialogue: 0,0:03:41.15,0:03:44.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The molecules of the carabiner\Nwhen I'm hanging on it Dialogue: 0,0:03:44.27,0:03:46.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are being spread apart, Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.05,0:03:49.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but they like to stay\Ntogether, so they pull back. Dialogue: 0,0:03:49.85,0:03:52.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can't see this\Nexpansion of the *carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:03:52.52,0:03:56.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on low forces, but you can on big ones. Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.21,0:04:04.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And so it turns out that this carabiner Dialogue: 0,0:04:04.87,0:04:08.08,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,has to accelerate my weight up Dialogue: 0,0:04:08.08,0:04:12.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at the same 9.8 meters per second squared, Dialogue: 0,0:04:12.68,0:04:16.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which turns out to be about 600 Newtons. Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.29,0:04:21.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yep, 600 of these need to\Nhold one skinny guy like me. Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.80,0:04:32.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, moving on, this carabiner says Dialogue: 0,0:04:32.21,0:04:37.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that it can hold up to 26 kilonewtons. Dialogue: 0,0:04:37.57,0:04:41.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Kilonewton is basically\Na thousand Newtons. Dialogue: 0,0:04:41.00,0:04:45.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So it means that it\Ncould hold about 40 me. Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.65,0:04:48.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I wish I would have a clone machine, Dialogue: 0,0:04:48.61,0:04:50.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so I could demonstrate this to you. Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.52,0:04:57.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then imagine how many videos\Nall of these me could create. Dialogue: 0,0:04:57.96,0:05:01.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(bright music) Dialogue: 0,0:05:01.04,0:05:05.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if you wanna see us\Ncreate more videos like this, Dialogue: 0,0:05:05.87,0:05:09.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,click the join button, it really helps. Dialogue: 0,0:05:09.15,0:05:12.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I promise I will\Nspend every single penny Dialogue: 0,0:05:12.05,0:05:15.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I get from you guys on\Nbuying a clone machine. Dialogue: 0,0:05:15.70,0:05:17.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Enjoy. Dialogue: 0,0:05:17.35,0:05:22.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(chuckling) Okay, so you can hang 40 me Dialogue: 0,0:05:22.18,0:05:26.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,on one single carabiner,\Nthat's pretty impressive. Dialogue: 0,0:05:26.57,0:05:29.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Although there are things\Nthat you must know. Dialogue: 0,0:05:29.52,0:05:31.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First of all, all of these ratings Dialogue: 0,0:05:31.95,0:05:33.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are for new equipment, Dialogue: 0,0:05:33.98,0:05:37.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,wear and tear does not\Ngo into that rating. Dialogue: 0,0:05:37.51,0:05:39.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,How bad is that? Dialogue: 0,0:05:39.19,0:05:42.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, I asked my friend,\NRyan from YouTube channel, Dialogue: 0,0:05:42.69,0:05:45.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,HowNOTtoHighline because he has a hobby Dialogue: 0,0:05:45.77,0:05:47.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of breaking stuff. Dialogue: 0,0:05:47.87,0:05:50.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And according to his tests, Dialogue: 0,0:05:50.20,0:05:53.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,most of the metals tend\Nto last pretty well. Dialogue: 0,0:05:53.49,0:05:58.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Although with soft things,\Nthings are totally different. Dialogue: 0,0:05:58.74,0:06:02.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Ryan] Black Diamond sling\Nwith a 22 kilonewton MBS. Dialogue: 0,0:06:03.09,0:06:04.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(machine whirs) Dialogue: 0,0:06:04.31,0:06:07.06,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(metallic clang) Dialogue: 0,0:06:09.07,0:06:12.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What? Was the MBS\Non 22 kilonewtons? Dialogue: 0,0:06:12.77,0:06:13.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Man] Yeah. Dialogue: 0,0:06:13.60,0:06:18.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Yep, a sling rated at 22\Nkilonewtons broke at six. Dialogue: 0,0:06:19.49,0:06:20.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And here is another one. Dialogue: 0,0:06:20.67,0:06:24.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Ryan] Woo, that's a great condition. Dialogue: 0,0:06:24.97,0:06:26.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Man] Would not whip. Dialogue: 0,0:06:27.58,0:06:28.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Ryan] No, not whip. Dialogue: 0,0:06:30.27,0:06:32.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I would tie my dog to this though. Dialogue: 0,0:06:32.00,0:06:34.67,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(machine whirs) Dialogue: 0,0:06:36.91,0:06:38.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All right. Dialogue: 0,0:06:38.04,0:06:40.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Man] I wouldn't tie\Na very big dog with that. Dialogue: 0,0:06:40.42,0:06:44.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Ryan] (giggling) All right,\Nlet's see how big of a dog Dialogue: 0,0:06:44.64,0:06:47.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,could you have tied with this? Dialogue: 0,0:06:47.47,0:06:49.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Ooh, a Chihuahua. Dialogue: 0,0:06:49.74,0:06:50.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(man chuckles) Dialogue: 0,0:06:50.69,0:06:53.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Yeah, so if you're one of these people Dialogue: 0,0:06:53.25,0:06:56.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who like to save money and use very old, Dialogue: 0,0:06:56.33,0:06:58.78,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,worn down slings, good luck. Dialogue: 0,0:06:58.78,0:07:00.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Ryan] 24 kilonewtons, Dialogue: 0,0:07:00.34,0:07:03.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(machine whirs) Dialogue: 0,0:07:04.07,0:07:05.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that did not stretch that much. Dialogue: 0,0:07:05.58,0:07:08.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Oh, guess, guess. Dialogue: 0,0:07:08.29,0:07:09.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Man] I saw. Dialogue: 0,0:07:09.12,0:07:13.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Ryan] Four kilonewtons,\Nwhat the fuck, man? Dialogue: 0,0:07:13.44,0:07:18.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- 4,000 Newtons, okay how\Nmuch does such sling can hold? Dialogue: 0,0:07:19.42,0:07:20.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, that's pretty easy. Dialogue: 0,0:07:20.66,0:07:24.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Just divide 4,000 Newtons by 9.8. Dialogue: 0,0:07:24.70,0:07:29.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or if you want easier, by 10\Nand you get 400 kilograms. Dialogue: 0,0:07:29.87,0:07:32.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That sounds quite a lot. \NNo? 400 kilograms? Dialogue: 0,0:07:33.94,0:07:38.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, all of these conversions\Nfrom force to kilograms Dialogue: 0,0:07:38.95,0:07:41.27,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that I have been talking so far Dialogue: 0,0:07:41.27,0:07:45.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are based on the fact that the\Nweight is hanging statically. Dialogue: 0,0:07:45.69,0:07:49.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Once the thing starts\Nfalling, everything changes. Dialogue: 0,0:07:49.54,0:07:50.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Man] Go. Dialogue: 0,0:07:50.42,0:07:53.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(metallic clanking) Dialogue: 0,0:07:53.80,0:07:56.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- So what you have just\Nseen is a clip from DMM, Dialogue: 0,0:07:56.84,0:07:59.90,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where they dropped 80 kilograms of mass, Dialogue: 0,0:07:59.90,0:08:03.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that broke a brand new Dyneema sling. Dialogue: 0,0:08:03.51,0:08:06.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now my goal is not to scare\Nyou, it's the opposite. Dialogue: 0,0:08:06.59,0:08:09.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I want to bring the\Nawareness that climbing gear Dialogue: 0,0:08:09.52,0:08:14.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is not magic, and if you use\Nit incorrectly, it might fail. Dialogue: 0,0:08:16.60,0:08:19.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Fun fact, do you know\Nthis joke that climbers Dialogue: 0,0:08:19.35,0:08:21.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like to say when they\Nfail on their climbs? Dialogue: 0,0:08:21.83,0:08:24.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That today is a high gravity day. Dialogue: 0,0:08:24.89,0:08:27.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, turns out that's true, Dialogue: 0,0:08:27.07,0:08:30.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,gravity does change from month to month. Dialogue: 0,0:08:30.20,0:08:32.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if you are one of those people Dialogue: 0,0:08:32.58,0:08:35.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,who like to complain that\Ntoday is a bad humidity, Dialogue: 0,0:08:35.83,0:08:38.76,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,or bad temperature, now you\Nhave a right to complain Dialogue: 0,0:08:38.76,0:08:41.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that today's a bad gravity day, yay! Dialogue: 0,0:08:41.69,0:08:43.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, let's see what happens Dialogue: 0,0:08:43.95,0:08:47.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when objects like us,\Nclimbers, start falling. Dialogue: 0,0:08:51.10,0:08:54.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That was a 10 meters fall. Dialogue: 0,0:08:54.09,0:08:56.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's see how much force such fall Dialogue: 0,0:08:56.07,0:08:58.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would generate to the climber. Dialogue: 0,0:08:58.01,0:09:00.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The formula for that would be similar Dialogue: 0,0:09:00.21,0:09:03.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to what we had before, except\Nthat we need to multiply Dialogue: 0,0:09:03.54,0:09:07.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,this by the distance\Nthe climber was falling, Dialogue: 0,0:09:07.01,0:09:11.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and divide by the distance\Nthe climber was slowing down. Dialogue: 0,0:09:16.87,0:09:18.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And did you actually notice Dialogue: 0,0:09:18.34,0:09:20.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how soft the fall for the climber was? Dialogue: 0,0:09:23.20,0:09:26.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So imagine driving a car in a highway, Dialogue: 0,0:09:26.46,0:09:31.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and pressing on the brake\Ngently while you come to a stop. Dialogue: 0,0:09:31.62,0:09:33.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,No problems right? Dialogue: 0,0:09:33.11,0:09:35.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now imagine you are not driving so fast, Dialogue: 0,0:09:35.09,0:09:37.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you're in a city, you're driving slowly, Dialogue: 0,0:09:37.65,0:09:39.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but you slam on the brake, Dialogue: 0,0:09:40.20,0:09:43.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that would not feel very nice, right? Dialogue: 0,0:09:43.37,0:09:45.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here is the first thing\NI want you to remember Dialogue: 0,0:09:45.70,0:09:48.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,out of this video, the\Nimpact to the climber Dialogue: 0,0:09:48.82,0:09:51.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will always be multiplied by the distance Dialogue: 0,0:09:51.66,0:09:54.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the climber was falling,\Ndivided by the distance Dialogue: 0,0:09:54.99,0:09:57.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of the slow down phase. Dialogue: 0,0:09:57.36,0:10:00.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So let's calculate, their falling distance Dialogue: 0,0:10:00.10,0:10:02.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was about four quickdraws, Dialogue: 0,0:10:02.30,0:10:04.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and their slowdown distance was about Dialogue: 0,0:10:04.57,0:10:06.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,two and a half quickdraws. Dialogue: 0,0:10:06.63,0:10:09.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And we get about 860 Newtons. Dialogue: 0,0:10:09.48,0:10:12.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Or if we would replace her with a standard Dialogue: 0,0:10:12.36,0:10:17.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,80 kilogram climber, that\Nwould be about 1.3 kilonewtons, Dialogue: 0,0:10:18.49,0:10:19.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is not much. Dialogue: 0,0:10:19.91,0:10:22.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Although this formula \Nhas a little problem Dialogue: 0,0:10:22.21,0:10:26.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because it will always give you\Nthe value of it just slightly lower Dialogue: 0,0:10:26.47,0:10:28.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than it would be in real life. Dialogue: 0,0:10:28.81,0:10:31.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But showing you how to\Ncalculate more precisely Dialogue: 0,0:10:31.72,0:10:33.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would mean that most of you would probably Dialogue: 0,0:10:33.97,0:10:35.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just leave this video right here. Dialogue: 0,0:10:35.95,0:10:37.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But we don't need to do that, Dialogue: 0,0:10:37.83,0:10:41.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,because we can rely on real\Nlife experimental data. Dialogue: 0,0:10:41.63,0:10:44.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And who is the boss at\Nproviding such data for us? Dialogue: 0,0:10:44.81,0:10:46.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Hi, I'm Ryan Jenks and- Dialogue: 0,0:10:46.18,0:10:49.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- And then that's enough\Nadvertisement for you. Dialogue: 0,0:10:49.26,0:10:50.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What they did in this video, Dialogue: 0,0:10:50.75,0:10:54.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,they put a device measuring\Nthe force on the climber, Dialogue: 0,0:10:54.44,0:10:56.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and made a series of falls. Dialogue: 0,0:10:58.86,0:11:00.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- (laughing) Zach. Dialogue: 0,0:11:07.41,0:11:09.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,For science, woo hoo. Dialogue: 0,0:11:12.98,0:11:14.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,That puts me at 1.87. Dialogue: 0,0:11:15.95,0:11:18.19,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- So most of the falls,\Nthat in my opinion, Dialogue: 0,0:11:18.19,0:11:20.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,would be a good belaying example, Dialogue: 0,0:11:20.34,0:11:22.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,were below two kilonewtons. Dialogue: 0,0:11:22.71,0:11:26.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Now let's take a look at\Nthese two extreme examples. Dialogue: 0,0:11:26.43,0:11:29.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Climber on the left is\Nfive meters above the bolt, Dialogue: 0,0:11:29.56,0:11:31.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so that would be 10 meters fall Dialogue: 0,0:11:31.95,0:11:34.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,plus the slack in the system. Dialogue: 0,0:11:34.03,0:11:37.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The belayer probably has\Nabout one meter of slack. Dialogue: 0,0:11:37.09,0:11:40.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And then there is probably\None more meter of slack Dialogue: 0,0:11:40.15,0:11:41.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in between the quickdraws. Dialogue: 0,0:11:41.59,0:11:44.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So in total, we are\Nlooking at 12 meters fall. Dialogue: 0,0:11:44.97,0:11:48.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While climber on the right is\Nonly one meter above the bolt. Dialogue: 0,0:11:48.47,0:11:51.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And let's say that\Nbelayer is really afraid, Dialogue: 0,0:11:51.32,0:11:54.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and he's going to give a very\Nhard catch for the climber. Dialogue: 0,0:11:54.66,0:11:57.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So we are looking at two meters fall. Dialogue: 0,0:11:58.04,0:12:03.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So a massive 12 meters fall,\Nor a small two meters fall. Dialogue: 0,0:12:03.09,0:12:06.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Which one do you think\Nis going to be softer for the climber? Dialogue: 0,0:12:06.44,0:12:08.42,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, let's see, we know how much Dialogue: 0,0:12:08.42,0:12:11.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the climbers will fall.\NBut now we need to find out Dialogue: 0,0:12:11.44,0:12:14.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the slowed down distances\Nfor both of the cases. Dialogue: 0,0:12:14.88,0:12:17.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And that depends mainly on two things. Dialogue: 0,0:12:17.70,0:12:20.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,First is the displacement of the belayer. Dialogue: 0,0:12:20.58,0:12:24.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,On a big, big whipper, the\Nbelayer will probably fly Dialogue: 0,0:12:24.09,0:12:27.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,about two meters, while on a small fall, Dialogue: 0,0:12:27.22,0:12:30.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,let's assume very common\Nmistake for beginners, Dialogue: 0,0:12:30.11,0:12:32.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where the belayer just takes the slack out Dialogue: 0,0:12:32.56,0:12:34.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and belays very hard. Dialogue: 0,0:12:34.43,0:12:38.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And the second factor is\Nthe stretch of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:12:38.21,0:12:41.43,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Rope manufacturers claim\Nthat if you put 80 kilogram Dialogue: 0,0:12:41.43,0:12:44.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,mass on a dynamic rope statically, Dialogue: 0,0:12:44.70,0:12:49.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,like so, without movement,\Nthe rope will stretch 10%. Dialogue: 0,0:12:49.16,0:12:52.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And dynamic stretch, when\Nyou take a lead fall, Dialogue: 0,0:12:52.60,0:12:55.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is up to 30%. Dialogue: 0,0:12:55.44,0:12:58.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well up to 30% is not very helpful for us. Dialogue: 0,0:12:58.55,0:13:01.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,What we need to know is\Nthe stretch of this rope Dialogue: 0,0:13:01.59,0:13:04.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from two to four kilonewtons force, Dialogue: 0,0:13:04.53,0:13:06.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that's where the lead falls are. Dialogue: 0,0:13:06.81,0:13:09.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And yet again, I was texting Ryan. Dialogue: 0,0:13:09.25,0:13:11.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- So, I'm gonna pull some dynamic rope, Dialogue: 0,0:13:11.28,0:13:12.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to see how much it stretches. Dialogue: 0,0:13:12.82,0:13:14.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At first, we thought\Nit's gonna be very easy, Dialogue: 0,0:13:14.93,0:13:17.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,just go to the park, stretch\Nthe rope to different forces, Dialogue: 0,0:13:17.99,0:13:21.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and measure the elongation of the rope. Dialogue: 0,0:13:21.11,0:13:24.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Well, sometimes easy is hard. Dialogue: 0,0:13:24.66,0:13:27.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,When you stretch the rope to certain force Dialogue: 0,0:13:27.57,0:13:30.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and leave it there, the force will start Dialogue: 0,0:13:30.12,0:13:33.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dropping on the rope, the\Nrope kind of just gives up. Dialogue: 0,0:13:33.58,0:13:36.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While this is very interesting,\Nit's not critical for us. Dialogue: 0,0:13:36.89,0:13:39.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The only thing he needed\Nto do is to pull the rope Dialogue: 0,0:13:39.50,0:13:42.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,as fast as he can to desired force, Dialogue: 0,0:13:42.39,0:13:44.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and measure the stretch. Dialogue: 0,0:13:44.29,0:13:49.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Ryan] Okay, oh my God,\Nthat's the seven mark... Dialogue: 0,0:13:49.61,0:13:55.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,6.9 meters... it stretches...\Nwhen you pull it... Dialogue: 0,0:13:55.63,0:13:59.38,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a dynamic rope... to four kilonewtons. Dialogue: 0,0:13:59.38,0:14:01.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But then there is\Nanother interesting factor, Dialogue: 0,0:14:01.48,0:14:04.20,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,once you load the rope to high forces, Dialogue: 0,0:14:04.20,0:14:06.09,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it takes some time for the rope Dialogue: 0,0:14:06.09,0:14:08.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to get back to its original length. Dialogue: 0,0:14:08.59,0:14:11.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This is what's known as rope resting, Dialogue: 0,0:14:11.49,0:14:13.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it was really cool\Nto see this in action. Dialogue: 0,0:14:13.81,0:14:16.91,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Ryan] See the Grigri\Ngetting pulled back slowly? Dialogue: 0,0:14:19.54,0:14:22.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Super interesting, probably\Nway more interesting Dialogue: 0,0:14:22.84,0:14:25.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to me than it is to you right now. Dialogue: 0,0:14:25.26,0:14:27.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So after he spent like\Nfour hours in the park Dialogue: 0,0:14:27.86,0:14:31.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,pulling the ropes, the\Nresults were that on forces Dialogue: 0,0:14:31.46,0:14:33.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,from two to four kilonewtons, Dialogue: 0,0:14:33.89,0:14:37.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope stretched to about 20%. Dialogue: 0,0:14:37.75,0:14:41.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Great, so let's use that\Nin our calculations. Dialogue: 0,0:14:41.18,0:14:45.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,On a big fall, we have 27\Nmeters of rope in total, Dialogue: 0,0:14:45.24,0:14:49.57,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so that would be 5.4 meters of stretch. Dialogue: 0,0:14:49.57,0:14:52.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,While in a small fall, we\Nhave five meters of rope, Dialogue: 0,0:14:52.60,0:14:54.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that would be one meter of stretch. Dialogue: 0,0:14:54.94,0:14:58.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, our belayer is\Npanicking and taking hard, Dialogue: 0,0:14:58.60,0:15:02.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,so he will take half of\Nthat stretch for himself, Dialogue: 0,0:15:02.17,0:15:06.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,leaving only half a meter\Nof stretch for the climber. Dialogue: 0,0:15:06.54,0:15:09.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And ta-da, the big, big whipper Dialogue: 0,0:15:09.66,0:15:13.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,will be two and a half\Ntimes softer for the climber Dialogue: 0,0:15:13.58,0:15:15.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,than the small fall. Dialogue: 0,0:15:16.47,0:15:17.87,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Oh, I love fun facts, Dialogue: 0,0:15:17.87,0:15:19.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,here is another one. Dialogue: 0,0:15:19.18,0:15:21.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Imagine that you were climbing and failed, Dialogue: 0,0:15:21.83,0:15:25.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but humidity was good,\Ntemperature was good, Dialogue: 0,0:15:25.37,0:15:27.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,even the gravity was good that day. Dialogue: 0,0:15:28.37,0:15:30.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,You can still blame the moon. Dialogue: 0,0:15:30.03,0:15:33.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- [Narrator] Negligibly but truly, Dialogue: 0,0:15:33.33,0:15:36.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you weigh about a million\Nof your weight less Dialogue: 0,0:15:36.46,0:15:38.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,when the moon is directly above you. Dialogue: 0,0:15:38.74,0:15:41.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- So if you wanna ascend,\Nclimb when the moon Dialogue: 0,0:15:41.36,0:15:45.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is directly above you, you're welcome. Dialogue: 0,0:15:45.52,0:15:48.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I remember I was projecting\Nthis really long route Dialogue: 0,0:15:48.36,0:15:52.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,of 35 meters, and the first\Ntime I managed to link Dialogue: 0,0:15:52.01,0:15:54.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,all the cruxes and arrive at the anchor. Dialogue: 0,0:15:54.71,0:15:57.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,At the moment when \NI was pulling the rope up Dialogue: 0,0:15:57.30,0:15:58.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to clip the anchor, Dialogue: 0,0:15:58.65,0:16:00.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,my belayer couldn't see me very well. Dialogue: 0,0:16:00.81,0:16:03.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So he just gave me a lot of slack. Dialogue: 0,0:16:03.30,0:16:06.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And on top of that, the\Nbolt before the anchor Dialogue: 0,0:16:06.93,0:16:10.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was really far, really ran out. Dialogue: 0,0:16:10.23,0:16:12.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So while I was dragging the rope up, Dialogue: 0,0:16:12.80,0:16:15.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I lost my balance and took a fall. Dialogue: 0,0:16:15.72,0:16:17.51,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The wall is flying in front of me, Dialogue: 0,0:16:17.51,0:16:20.14,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I'm thinking, "Why I'm still falling? Dialogue: 0,0:16:20.14,0:16:21.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Hmm, this is unusual." Dialogue: 0,0:16:21.93,0:16:23.47,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then I stopped and looked up, Dialogue: 0,0:16:23.47,0:16:25.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it was maybe five or\Nsix quickdraws above me, Dialogue: 0,0:16:25.97,0:16:29.39,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,probably about 15 meters of fall. Dialogue: 0,0:16:29.39,0:16:34.32,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But the fall was super soft,\Nit's like riding an elevator. Dialogue: 0,0:16:34.32,0:16:36.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here is another\Ntakeaway out of this video, Dialogue: 0,0:16:36.86,0:16:39.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if the climber is really high up, Dialogue: 0,0:16:39.13,0:16:41.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he has a lot of rope to absorb the fall. Dialogue: 0,0:16:41.70,0:16:44.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So as long as he doesn't\Nfall onto something, Dialogue: 0,0:16:44.93,0:16:49.22,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the fall will be soft, no\Nmatter how you belay that. Dialogue: 0,0:16:49.22,0:16:51.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,However, if the climber is not so high, Dialogue: 0,0:16:51.96,0:16:54.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,he doesn't have so much\Nrope to absorb the fall, Dialogue: 0,0:16:54.79,0:16:59.68,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,then soft dynamic belaying\Nis really important. Dialogue: 0,0:16:59.68,0:17:02.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And you can ask any light climber, Dialogue: 0,0:17:02.05,0:17:05.62,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,how many times they\Nhad their ankles broken Dialogue: 0,0:17:05.62,0:17:07.55,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,due to hard catches. Dialogue: 0,0:17:07.55,0:17:09.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, let's switch gears a little bit. Dialogue: 0,0:17:09.30,0:17:11.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Let's talk about friction, Dialogue: 0,0:17:11.30,0:17:13.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,'cause the more friction you have, Dialogue: 0,0:17:13.71,0:17:17.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the harder the fall for\Nthe climber will be. Dialogue: 0,0:17:17.00,0:17:19.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And here is a very\Nextreme example of that. Dialogue: 0,0:17:19.54,0:17:23.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- As you can see right\Nhere, we Z dragged it. Dialogue: 0,0:17:23.73,0:17:27.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And so we're gonna have a\Nlot of friction when I fall. Dialogue: 0,0:17:27.56,0:17:29.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And whoo, for science. Dialogue: 0,0:17:29.24,0:17:30.54,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Do it! Dialogue: 0,0:17:30.54,0:17:31.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Oh my God! Dialogue: 0,0:17:34.28,0:17:36.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- So when you have a lot of friction, Dialogue: 0,0:17:36.33,0:17:39.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the rope close to the\Nclimber stretches normally, Dialogue: 0,0:17:39.74,0:17:43.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but the rope closer to belayer\Ndoesn't stretch that much. Dialogue: 0,0:17:43.96,0:17:46.77,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's like having shorter\Nrope and heavier belayer Dialogue: 0,0:17:46.77,0:17:47.82,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at the same time. Dialogue: 0,0:17:47.82,0:17:50.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And although the force to the harness Dialogue: 0,0:17:50.23,0:17:52.50,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,was only two and a half kilonewtons, Dialogue: 0,0:17:52.50,0:17:55.92,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,a lot of the force went\Npendulum into the wall. Dialogue: 0,0:17:55.92,0:17:57.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- Do it. Dialogue: 0,0:17:57.33,0:17:59.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- And that's how we break ankles. Dialogue: 0,0:17:59.53,0:18:03.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So extending the Quickdraws\Nnot only helps you to clip Dialogue: 0,0:18:03.41,0:18:05.29,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and avoid situations like this, Dialogue: 0,0:18:05.29,0:18:06.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(upbeat music) Dialogue: 0,0:18:06.12,0:18:09.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,(climber straining) Dialogue: 0,0:18:16.65,0:18:20.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But also reduces the impact\Nforces for the climbers. Dialogue: 0,0:18:20.65,0:18:23.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Okay, let's circle back to the DMM test, Dialogue: 0,0:18:23.93,0:18:25.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,breaking the sling. Dialogue: 0,0:18:25.72,0:18:29.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Dyneema slings are very static,\Nthey don't stretch at all. Dialogue: 0,0:18:29.73,0:18:31.52,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And I hope that by now you understand Dialogue: 0,0:18:31.52,0:18:34.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that this sudden stop\Ncan create huge forces. Dialogue: 0,0:18:34.98,0:18:37.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If not, ask somebody to slap you. Dialogue: 0,0:18:37.60,0:18:40.65,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This stop on the face will be basically Dialogue: 0,0:18:40.65,0:18:41.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,what you need to understand. Dialogue: 0,0:18:41.95,0:18:43.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So let's make a very wild Dialogue: 0,0:18:43.86,0:18:46.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and probably very inaccurate guess Dialogue: 0,0:18:46.23,0:18:51.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that this sling would stretch\Nto about five centimeters. Dialogue: 0,0:18:51.16,0:18:54.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So if we drop 80 kilograms of mass, Dialogue: 0,0:18:54.59,0:18:57.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,the distance of 120 centimeters, Dialogue: 0,0:18:57.98,0:19:01.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and the absorption distance\Nis only five centimeters, Dialogue: 0,0:19:01.96,0:19:06.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we are looking at 19 kilonewtons. Dialogue: 0,0:19:06.16,0:19:08.85,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,If that is not gonna break the sling, Dialogue: 0,0:19:08.85,0:19:11.99,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,it's definitely gonna break you. Dialogue: 0,0:19:11.99,0:19:14.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Woo, if you're still watching, Dialogue: 0,0:19:14.07,0:19:16.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that probably means that you should be Dialogue: 0,0:19:16.03,0:19:18.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,at least a little bit geeky. Dialogue: 0,0:19:18.44,0:19:20.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So here is a dessert for you. Dialogue: 0,0:19:21.32,0:19:23.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There is no gravity. Dialogue: 0,0:19:23.84,0:19:27.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Yeah, objects don't attract each other, Dialogue: 0,0:19:27.12,0:19:28.88,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there is only space time. Dialogue: 0,0:19:28.88,0:19:31.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- You feel as though you're\Nbeing pushed into the ground, Dialogue: 0,0:19:31.80,0:19:34.11,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,not because of a force called gravity, Dialogue: 0,0:19:34.11,0:19:36.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but because time is moving faster Dialogue: 0,0:19:36.36,0:19:38.89,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for your head than for your feet. Dialogue: 0,0:19:38.89,0:19:41.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,- This and all the other\Nresources that I use Dialogue: 0,0:19:41.44,0:19:44.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to create this video will\Nbe in the description. Dialogue: 0,0:19:44.59,0:19:47.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And now please go send some love to Ryan Dialogue: 0,0:19:47.28,0:19:50.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for providing me with all\Nof his experimental data Dialogue: 0,0:19:50.46,0:19:52.36,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that I used in this video. Dialogue: 0,0:19:52.36,0:19:55.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So don't forget to subscribe\Nand support our channels Dialogue: 0,0:19:55.46,0:19:57.96,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,if you wanna see more content like this. Dialogue: 0,0:19:57.96,0:19:58.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Enjoy.