1 00:00:00,833 --> 00:00:03,411 So in the oasis 2 00:00:03,411 --> 00:00:06,917 of intelligentsia that is TED, 3 00:00:06,917 --> 00:00:09,285 I stand here before you this evening 4 00:00:09,285 --> 00:00:12,629 as an expert in dragging heavy stuff 5 00:00:12,629 --> 00:00:15,159 around cold places. 6 00:00:15,159 --> 00:00:16,715 I've been leading polar expeditions 7 00:00:16,715 --> 00:00:18,317 for most of my adult life, and last month, 8 00:00:18,317 --> 00:00:21,847 my teammate Tarka L’Herpiniere and I 9 00:00:21,847 --> 00:00:24,795 finished the most ambitious expedition 10 00:00:24,795 --> 00:00:27,141 I've ever attempted. 11 00:00:27,141 --> 00:00:28,789 In fact, it feels like I've been 12 00:00:28,789 --> 00:00:30,484 transported straight here 13 00:00:30,484 --> 00:00:32,806 from four months in the middle of nowhere, 14 00:00:32,806 --> 00:00:35,494 mostly grunting and swearing, 15 00:00:35,494 --> 00:00:37,935 straight to the TED stage, so you can imagine 16 00:00:37,935 --> 00:00:40,375 that's a transition that hasn't been 17 00:00:40,375 --> 00:00:41,905 entirely seamless. 18 00:00:41,905 --> 00:00:43,815 One of the interesting side effects 19 00:00:43,815 --> 00:00:46,463 seems to be that my short-term memory is entirely shot, 20 00:00:46,463 --> 00:00:48,665 so I've had to write some notes 21 00:00:48,665 --> 00:00:50,383 to avoid too much grunting 22 00:00:50,383 --> 00:00:53,353 and swearing in the next 17 minutes. 23 00:00:53,353 --> 00:00:56,211 This is the first talk I've given about this expedition, 24 00:00:56,211 --> 00:00:59,323 and while we weren't sequencing genomes 25 00:00:59,323 --> 00:01:01,690 or building space telescopes, 26 00:01:01,690 --> 00:01:03,734 this is a story about giving 27 00:01:03,734 --> 00:01:06,447 everything we had to achieve something 28 00:01:06,447 --> 00:01:08,310 that hadn't been done before, 29 00:01:08,310 --> 00:01:10,352 so I hope in that you might find some food 30 00:01:10,352 --> 00:01:12,535 for thought. 31 00:01:12,535 --> 00:01:14,276 It was a journey, 32 00:01:14,276 --> 00:01:16,041 an expedition in Antarctica, 33 00:01:16,041 --> 00:01:18,823 the coldest, windiest, driest, 34 00:01:18,823 --> 00:01:20,757 and highest altitude continent on Earth. 35 00:01:20,757 --> 00:01:22,904 It's a fascinating place. It's a huge place. 36 00:01:22,904 --> 00:01:25,119 It's twice the size of Australia, 37 00:01:25,119 --> 00:01:26,791 a continent that is the same size 38 00:01:26,791 --> 00:01:30,220 as China and India put together. 39 00:01:30,220 --> 00:01:31,978 As an aside, I have experienced 40 00:01:31,978 --> 00:01:34,312 an interesting phenomenon in the last few days, 41 00:01:34,312 --> 00:01:36,357 something that I expect Chris Hadfield 42 00:01:36,357 --> 00:01:38,089 may get at TED in a few years' time, 43 00:01:38,089 --> 00:01:40,144 conversations that go something like this: 44 00:01:40,144 --> 00:01:41,767 "Oh, Antarctica. Awesome. 45 00:01:41,767 --> 00:01:44,484 My husband and I did Antarctica 46 00:01:44,484 --> 00:01:47,595 with Lindblad for our anniversary." 47 00:01:47,595 --> 00:01:49,081 Or, "Oh cool, did you go there 48 00:01:49,081 --> 00:01:50,939 for the marathon?" 49 00:01:50,939 --> 00:01:53,060 (Laughter) 50 00:01:54,445 --> 00:01:56,442 Our journey was, in fact, 51 00:01:56,442 --> 00:01:58,485 69 marathons back to back 52 00:01:58,485 --> 00:02:02,386 in 105 days, an 1,800 mile round trip 53 00:02:02,386 --> 00:02:04,476 on foot from the coast of Antarctica 54 00:02:04,476 --> 00:02:07,587 to the South Pole and back again. 55 00:02:07,587 --> 00:02:09,491 In the process, we broke the record 56 00:02:09,491 --> 00:02:11,464 for the longest human-powered 57 00:02:11,464 --> 00:02:15,087 polar journey in history by more than 400 miles. 58 00:02:15,087 --> 00:02:19,498 (Applause) 59 00:02:19,498 --> 00:02:21,913 For those of you from the Bay area, 60 00:02:21,913 --> 00:02:23,980 it was the same as walking from here 61 00:02:23,980 --> 00:02:26,023 to San Francisco, 62 00:02:26,023 --> 00:02:29,018 then turning around and walking back again. 63 00:02:29,018 --> 00:02:30,527 So as camping trips go, 64 00:02:30,527 --> 00:02:33,778 it was a long one, 65 00:02:33,778 --> 00:02:35,914 and one I've seen summarized 66 00:02:35,914 --> 00:02:38,190 most succinctly here on the hallowed pages 67 00:02:38,190 --> 00:02:40,686 of Business Insider Malaysia. 68 00:02:40,686 --> 00:02:43,556 [Two Explorers Just Completed A Polar Expedition That Killed 69 00:02:43,556 --> 00:02:46,247 Everyone The Last Time It was Attempted] 70 00:02:46,247 --> 00:02:48,917 Chris Hadfield talked so eloquently 71 00:02:48,917 --> 00:02:52,448 about fear and about the odds of success 72 00:02:52,448 --> 00:02:54,219 and indeed the odds of survival. 73 00:02:54,219 --> 00:02:56,254 Of the nine people in history that had 74 00:02:56,254 --> 00:02:58,019 attempted this journey before us, 75 00:02:58,019 --> 00:03:00,712 none had made it to the pole and back, 76 00:03:00,712 --> 00:03:04,590 and five had died in the process. 77 00:03:04,590 --> 00:03:07,237 This is Captain Robert Falcon Scott. 78 00:03:07,237 --> 00:03:10,000 He led the last team to attempt this expedition. 79 00:03:10,000 --> 00:03:12,438 Scott and his rival Sir Ernest Shackleton 80 00:03:12,438 --> 00:03:15,154 over the space of a decade 81 00:03:15,154 --> 00:03:17,174 both led expeditions battling to become 82 00:03:17,174 --> 00:03:19,427 the first to reach the South Pole, 83 00:03:19,427 --> 00:03:22,446 to chart and map the interior of Antarctica, 84 00:03:22,446 --> 00:03:24,581 a place we knew less about at the time 85 00:03:24,581 --> 00:03:26,485 than the surface of the moon, 86 00:03:26,485 --> 00:03:28,830 because we could see the moon through telescopes. 87 00:03:28,830 --> 00:03:30,734 Antarctica was, for the most part, 88 00:03:30,734 --> 00:03:32,963 a century ago, uncharted. 89 00:03:32,963 --> 00:03:34,565 Some of you may know the story. 90 00:03:34,565 --> 00:03:37,518 Scott's last expedition, the Terra Nova Expedition, 91 00:03:37,518 --> 00:03:40,022 in 1910, started as a giant siege-style approach. 92 00:03:40,022 --> 00:03:42,251 He had a big team using ponies, 93 00:03:42,251 --> 00:03:44,778 using dogs, using petrol-driven tractors, 94 00:03:44,778 --> 00:03:47,725 dropping pre-positioned depots of food and fuel 95 00:03:47,725 --> 00:03:50,216 through which Scott's final team of five 96 00:03:50,216 --> 00:03:52,193 would travel to the five would travel to the pole, 97 00:03:52,193 --> 00:03:53,837 where they would turn around and ski back 98 00:03:53,837 --> 00:03:55,416 to the coast again on foot. 99 00:03:55,416 --> 00:03:57,599 Scott and his final team of five 100 00:03:57,599 --> 00:03:59,804 arrived at the South Pole 101 00:03:59,804 --> 00:04:01,337 in January 1912 102 00:04:01,337 --> 00:04:03,984 to find they had been beaten to it 103 00:04:03,984 --> 00:04:06,259 by a Norwegian team led by Roald Amundsen, 104 00:04:06,259 --> 00:04:07,908 who rode on dogsled. 105 00:04:07,908 --> 00:04:09,997 Scott's team ended up on foot, 106 00:04:09,997 --> 00:04:11,925 and for more than a century 107 00:04:11,925 --> 00:04:14,665 this journey has remained unfinished. 108 00:04:14,665 --> 00:04:16,290 Scott's team of five died 109 00:04:16,290 --> 00:04:17,822 on the return journey, 110 00:04:17,822 --> 00:04:19,633 and for the last decade, 111 00:04:19,633 --> 00:04:22,954 I've been asking myself why that is. 112 00:04:22,954 --> 00:04:26,576 How come this has remained the high water mark? 113 00:04:26,576 --> 00:04:28,596 Scott's team covered 1,600 miles on foot. 114 00:04:28,596 --> 00:04:30,337 No one's come close to that ever since. 115 00:04:30,337 --> 00:04:32,172 So this is the high water mark 116 00:04:32,172 --> 00:04:34,586 of human endurance, human endeavor, 117 00:04:34,586 --> 00:04:36,142 human athletic achievement 118 00:04:36,142 --> 00:04:38,510 in arguably the harshest climate on Earth. 119 00:04:38,510 --> 00:04:41,018 It was as if the marathon record 120 00:04:41,018 --> 00:04:44,037 has remained unbroken since 1912. 121 00:04:44,037 --> 00:04:45,941 And of course some strange 122 00:04:45,941 --> 00:04:49,145 and predictable combination of curiosity, 123 00:04:49,145 --> 00:04:51,095 stubbornness, and probably hubris, 124 00:04:51,095 --> 00:04:52,535 led me to thinking I might be the man 125 00:04:52,535 --> 00:04:55,182 to try and finish the job. 126 00:04:55,182 --> 00:04:59,013 Unlike Scott's expedition, there were just two of us, 127 00:04:59,013 --> 00:05:01,126 and we set off from the coast of Antarctica 128 00:05:01,126 --> 00:05:02,449 in October last year 129 00:05:02,449 --> 00:05:04,214 dragging everything ourselves, 130 00:05:04,214 --> 00:05:06,814 a process Scott called "man-hauling." 131 00:05:06,814 --> 00:05:08,045 When I say it was like walking 132 00:05:08,045 --> 00:05:10,297 from here to San Francisco and back, 133 00:05:10,297 --> 00:05:11,830 I actually mean it was like dragging 134 00:05:11,830 --> 00:05:13,594 something that ways a shade more 135 00:05:13,594 --> 00:05:15,638 than the heaviest ever NFL player. 136 00:05:15,638 --> 00:05:17,681 Our sledges weighed 200 kilos, 137 00:05:17,681 --> 00:05:20,746 or 440 pounds each at the start, 138 00:05:20,746 --> 00:05:22,510 the same weights that the weakest 139 00:05:22,510 --> 00:05:25,018 of Scott's ponies pulled. 140 00:05:25,018 --> 00:05:29,430 Early on, we averaged 0.5 miles per hour. 141 00:05:29,430 --> 00:05:31,287 Perhaps the reason no one had attempted this journey 142 00:05:31,287 --> 00:05:33,145 until now, for more than a century, 143 00:05:33,145 --> 00:05:35,118 was that no one had been quite 144 00:05:35,118 --> 00:05:38,415 stupid enough to try. 145 00:05:38,415 --> 00:05:40,087 And while I can't claim we were 146 00:05:40,087 --> 00:05:43,454 exploring in the genuine Edwardian sense of the word 147 00:05:43,454 --> 00:05:47,192 — we weren't naming any mountains or mapping any uncharted valleys — 148 00:05:47,192 --> 00:05:49,143 I think we were stepping 149 00:05:49,143 --> 00:05:51,674 into uncharted territory in a human sense. 150 00:05:51,674 --> 00:05:53,252 Certainly, if in the future we learn 151 00:05:53,252 --> 00:05:54,947 there is an area of the human brain 152 00:05:54,947 --> 00:05:58,779 that lights up when one curses oneself, 153 00:05:58,779 --> 00:06:02,215 I wouldn't be at all surprised. 154 00:06:02,215 --> 00:06:03,817 You've heard that the average American 155 00:06:03,817 --> 00:06:05,814 spends 90 percent of their time indoors. 156 00:06:05,814 --> 00:06:09,413 We didn't go indoors for nearly four months. 157 00:06:09,413 --> 00:06:11,595 We didn't see a sunset either. 158 00:06:11,595 --> 00:06:13,151 It was 24-hour daylight. 159 00:06:13,151 --> 00:06:15,566 Living conditions were quite spartan. 160 00:06:15,566 --> 00:06:17,888 I changed my underwear three times 161 00:06:17,888 --> 00:06:20,465 in 105 days, 162 00:06:20,465 --> 00:06:22,810 and Tarka and I shared 30 square feet 163 00:06:22,810 --> 00:06:24,552 on the canvas, 164 00:06:24,552 --> 00:06:25,713 though we did have some technology 165 00:06:25,713 --> 00:06:28,847 that Scott could never have imagined, 166 00:06:28,847 --> 00:06:30,960 and we blogged live every evening from the tent 167 00:06:30,960 --> 00:06:32,655 via a laptop 168 00:06:32,655 --> 00:06:34,605 and a custom-made satellite transmitter, 169 00:06:34,605 --> 00:06:36,115 all of which were solar-powered: 170 00:06:36,115 --> 00:06:37,252 we had a flexible 171 00:06:37,252 --> 00:06:39,040 photovoltaic panel over the tent. 172 00:06:39,040 --> 00:06:42,430 And the writing was important to me. 173 00:06:42,430 --> 00:06:43,823 As a kid, I was inspired 174 00:06:43,823 --> 00:06:47,260 by the literature of adventure 175 00:06:47,260 --> 00:06:49,164 and exploration, and I think 176 00:06:49,164 --> 00:06:51,021 we've all seen here this week 177 00:06:51,021 --> 00:06:53,204 the importance and the power 178 00:06:53,204 --> 00:06:55,595 of storytelling. 179 00:06:55,595 --> 00:06:57,081 So we had some 21st-century gear, 180 00:06:57,081 --> 00:06:59,868 but the reality is that the challenges that Scott faced 181 00:06:59,868 --> 00:07:01,865 were the same that way faced: 182 00:07:01,865 --> 00:07:03,652 those of the weather 183 00:07:03,652 --> 00:07:05,603 and of what Scott called glide, 184 00:07:05,603 --> 00:07:06,671 the amount of friction 185 00:07:06,671 --> 00:07:08,946 between the sledges and the snow. 186 00:07:08,946 --> 00:07:11,199 The lowest wind chill we experienced 187 00:07:11,199 --> 00:07:12,801 was in the minus-70s, 188 00:07:12,801 --> 00:07:15,378 and we had zero visibility, what's called white-out, 189 00:07:15,378 --> 00:07:18,391 for much of our journey. 190 00:07:18,391 --> 00:07:20,742 We traveled up and down one of the largest 191 00:07:20,742 --> 00:07:23,955 and most dangerous glaciers in the world, the Beardmore glacier. 192 00:07:23,955 --> 00:07:26,314 It's 110 miles long: most of its surface 193 00:07:26,314 --> 00:07:27,731 is what's called blue ice. 194 00:07:27,731 --> 00:07:29,379 You can see it's a beautiful, 195 00:07:29,379 --> 00:07:31,074 shimmering, steel-hard blue surface 196 00:07:31,074 --> 00:07:33,497 covered with thousands and thousands 197 00:07:33,497 --> 00:07:36,623 of crevasses, these deep cracks 198 00:07:36,623 --> 00:07:39,038 in the glacial ice, up to 200 feet deep. 199 00:07:39,038 --> 00:07:40,315 Planes can't land here, 200 00:07:40,315 --> 00:07:43,775 so we were at the most risk, 201 00:07:43,775 --> 00:07:46,399 technically when we had the slimmest chance 202 00:07:46,399 --> 00:07:48,395 of being rescued. 203 00:07:48,395 --> 00:07:49,974 We got to the South Pole 204 00:07:49,974 --> 00:07:52,505 after 61 days on foot, 205 00:07:52,505 --> 00:07:54,804 with one day off for bad weather, 206 00:07:54,804 --> 00:07:57,521 and I'm sad to say, it was something of an anticlimax. 207 00:07:57,521 --> 00:07:59,726 There's a permanent American base, 208 00:07:59,726 --> 00:08:02,304 the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, 209 00:08:02,304 --> 00:08:03,488 at the South Pole. 210 00:08:03,488 --> 00:08:05,125 They have an airstrip, they have a canteen, 211 00:08:05,125 --> 00:08:06,658 they have hot showers, 212 00:08:06,658 --> 00:08:08,353 they have a post office, a tourist shop, 213 00:08:08,353 --> 00:08:10,071 a basketball court 214 00:08:10,071 --> 00:08:12,695 that doubles as a movie theater. 215 00:08:12,695 --> 00:08:14,506 So it's a bit different these days, 216 00:08:14,506 --> 00:08:15,922 and there are also acres of junk. 217 00:08:15,922 --> 00:08:17,292 I think it's a marvelous thing 218 00:08:17,292 --> 00:08:19,266 that humans can exist 219 00:08:19,266 --> 00:08:22,586 365 days of the year 220 00:08:22,586 --> 00:08:24,583 with hamburgers and hot showers 221 00:08:24,583 --> 00:08:26,231 and movie theaters, 222 00:08:26,231 --> 00:08:29,087 but it does seem to produce a lot of empty cardboard boxes. 223 00:08:29,087 --> 00:08:30,829 You can see on the left this photograph, 224 00:08:30,829 --> 00:08:32,384 several square acres of junk 225 00:08:32,384 --> 00:08:35,287 waiting to be flown out from the South Pole. 226 00:08:35,287 --> 00:08:38,909 But there is also a pole at the South Pole 227 00:08:38,909 --> 00:08:42,485 and we got there on foot, unassisted, 228 00:08:42,485 --> 00:08:43,971 unsupported, by the hardest route, 229 00:08:43,971 --> 00:08:46,316 900 miles in record time, 230 00:08:46,316 --> 00:08:48,684 dragging more weight than anyone in history. 231 00:08:48,684 --> 00:08:50,333 And if we'd stopped there and flown home, 232 00:08:50,333 --> 00:08:53,467 which would have been the eminently sensible thing to do, 233 00:08:53,467 --> 00:08:55,348 then my talk would end here 234 00:08:55,348 --> 00:08:59,318 and it would end something like this. 235 00:08:59,318 --> 00:09:01,153 If you have the right team around you, 236 00:09:01,153 --> 00:09:02,592 the right tools, the right technology, 237 00:09:02,592 --> 00:09:06,261 and if you have enough self-belief 238 00:09:06,261 --> 00:09:08,072 and enough determination, 239 00:09:08,072 --> 00:09:13,226 than anything is possible. 240 00:09:13,226 --> 00:09:15,409 But then we turned around, 241 00:09:15,409 --> 00:09:18,288 and this is where things get interesting. 242 00:09:18,288 --> 00:09:20,842 High on the Antarctic plateau, 243 00:09:20,842 --> 00:09:25,161 over 10,000 feet, it's very windy, very cold, very dry, we were exhausted. 244 00:09:25,161 --> 00:09:27,111 We'd covered 35 marathons, 245 00:09:27,111 --> 00:09:28,737 we were only halfway, 246 00:09:28,737 --> 00:09:30,478 and we had a safety net, of course, 247 00:09:30,478 --> 00:09:32,452 of ski planes and satellite phones 248 00:09:32,452 --> 00:09:34,425 and live, 24-hour tracking beacons 249 00:09:34,425 --> 00:09:36,515 that didn't exist for Scott, 250 00:09:36,515 --> 00:09:38,257 but in hindsight, 251 00:09:38,257 --> 00:09:40,323 rather than making our lives easier, 252 00:09:40,323 --> 00:09:42,482 the safety net actually allowed us 253 00:09:42,482 --> 00:09:46,337 to cut things very fine indeed, 254 00:09:46,337 --> 00:09:48,914 to sail very close to our absolute limits 255 00:09:48,914 --> 00:09:50,284 as human beings, 256 00:09:50,284 --> 00:09:53,697 and it is an exquisite form of torture 257 00:09:53,697 --> 00:09:56,414 to exhaust yourself to the point of starvation day after day 258 00:09:56,414 --> 00:09:57,946 while dragging a sledge 259 00:09:57,946 --> 00:10:00,686 full of food. 260 00:10:00,686 --> 00:10:04,773 For years, I'd been writing glib lines in sponsorship proposals 261 00:10:04,773 --> 00:10:07,954 about pushing the limits of human endurance, 262 00:10:07,954 --> 00:10:10,763 but in reality, that was a very frightening place 263 00:10:10,763 --> 00:10:12,806 to be indeed. 264 00:10:12,806 --> 00:10:14,525 We had, before we'd got to the Pole, 265 00:10:14,525 --> 00:10:17,509 two weeks of almost permanent headwind, which slowed us down. 266 00:10:17,509 --> 00:10:20,159 As a result, we'd had several days of eating half rations. 267 00:10:20,159 --> 00:10:22,878 We had a finite amount of food in the sledges to make this journey, 268 00:10:22,878 --> 00:10:24,880 so we were trying to string that out 269 00:10:24,880 --> 00:10:27,063 by reducing our intake to half 270 00:10:27,063 --> 00:10:29,176 the calories we should be eating. 271 00:10:29,176 --> 00:10:32,682 As a result, we both became increasingly hypoglycemic: 272 00:10:32,682 --> 00:10:35,236 we had low blood sugar levels day after day 273 00:10:35,236 --> 00:10:37,674 and increasingly susceptible 274 00:10:37,674 --> 00:10:40,414 to the extreme cold. 275 00:10:40,414 --> 00:10:42,457 Tarka took this photo of me one evening 276 00:10:42,457 --> 00:10:44,477 after I'd nearly passed out with hypothermia. 277 00:10:44,477 --> 00:10:47,565 We both had repeated bouts of hypothermia, 278 00:10:47,565 --> 00:10:49,075 something I hadn't experienced before, 279 00:10:49,075 --> 00:10:50,746 and it was very humbling indeed. 280 00:10:50,746 --> 00:10:54,554 As much as you might like to think, as I do, 281 00:10:54,554 --> 00:10:56,830 that you're the kind of person who doesn't quit, 282 00:10:56,830 --> 00:10:58,664 that you'll go down swinging, 283 00:10:58,664 --> 00:11:00,916 hypothermia doesn't leave you much choice. 284 00:11:00,916 --> 00:11:03,726 You become utterly incapacitated. 285 00:11:03,726 --> 00:11:06,907 It's like being a drunk toddler. 286 00:11:06,907 --> 00:11:08,880 You become pathetic. 287 00:11:08,880 --> 00:11:13,269 I remember just wanting to lie down and quit. 288 00:11:13,269 --> 00:11:15,173 It was a peculiar, peculiar feeling, 289 00:11:15,173 --> 00:11:17,170 and a real surprise to me 290 00:11:17,170 --> 00:11:20,722 to be debilitated to that degree. 291 00:11:20,722 --> 00:11:25,064 And then we ran out of food completely, 292 00:11:25,064 --> 00:11:28,802 46 miles short of the first of the depots 293 00:11:28,802 --> 00:11:30,567 that we'd laid on our outward journey. 294 00:11:30,567 --> 00:11:31,960 We'd laid 10 depots of food, 295 00:11:31,960 --> 00:11:34,607 literally burying food and fuel, for our return journey 296 00:11:34,607 --> 00:11:37,254 — the food was for a cooker so you could melt snow to get water — 297 00:11:37,254 --> 00:11:40,481 and I was forced to make the decision 298 00:11:40,481 --> 00:11:43,361 to call for a resupply flight, 299 00:11:43,361 --> 00:11:46,286 a ski plane carrying eight days of food 300 00:11:46,286 --> 00:11:48,190 to tide us over that gap. 301 00:11:48,190 --> 00:11:49,699 They took 12 hours to reach us 302 00:11:49,699 --> 00:11:51,812 from the other side of Antarctica. 303 00:11:51,812 --> 00:11:53,716 Calling for that plane 304 00:11:53,716 --> 00:11:55,458 was one of the toughest decisions of my life, 305 00:11:55,458 --> 00:11:58,174 and I sound like a bit of a fraud standing here now with a sort of belly. 306 00:11:58,174 --> 00:12:01,704 I've put on 30 pounds in the last three weeks. 307 00:12:01,704 --> 00:12:04,629 Being that hungry has left an interesting mental scar, 308 00:12:04,629 --> 00:12:06,696 which is that I've been hoovering up 309 00:12:06,696 --> 00:12:11,154 every hotel buffet that I can find. 310 00:12:11,154 --> 00:12:13,940 But we were genuinely quite hungry, 311 00:12:13,940 --> 00:12:16,958 and in quite a bad way. 312 00:12:16,958 --> 00:12:18,909 I don't regret calling for that plane for a second, 313 00:12:18,909 --> 00:12:21,161 because I'm still standing here 314 00:12:21,161 --> 00:12:23,251 alive with all digits intact telling this story, 315 00:12:23,251 --> 00:12:27,709 but getting external assistance like that was never part of the plan, 316 00:12:27,709 --> 00:12:30,913 and it's something my ego is still struggling with. 317 00:12:30,913 --> 00:12:33,955 This was the biggest dream I've ever had, 318 00:12:33,955 --> 00:12:37,577 and it was so nearly perfect. 319 00:12:37,577 --> 00:12:39,458 On the way back down to the coast, 320 00:12:39,458 --> 00:12:41,269 our crampons — they're the spikes 321 00:12:41,269 --> 00:12:44,125 on our boots that we have for traveling over this blue ice on the glacier — 322 00:12:44,125 --> 00:12:45,750 broke on the top of the Beardmore. 323 00:12:45,750 --> 00:12:47,445 We still had 100 miles to go downhill 324 00:12:47,445 --> 00:12:49,419 on very slippery rock-hard blue ice. 325 00:12:49,419 --> 00:12:51,810 They needed repairing almost every hour. 326 00:12:51,810 --> 00:12:53,761 To give you an idea of scale, 327 00:12:53,761 --> 00:12:55,665 this is looking down towards the mouth 328 00:12:55,665 --> 00:12:57,058 of the Beardmore Glacier. 329 00:12:57,058 --> 00:12:58,753 You could fit the entirety of Manhattan 330 00:12:58,753 --> 00:13:00,378 in the gap on the horizon. 331 00:13:00,378 --> 00:13:03,977 That's 20 miles between Mt. Hope and Mt. Kiffin. 332 00:13:03,977 --> 00:13:07,065 I've never felt as small 333 00:13:07,065 --> 00:13:10,060 as I did in Antarctica. 334 00:13:10,060 --> 00:13:11,825 When we got down to the mouth of the glacier, 335 00:13:11,825 --> 00:13:14,240 we found fresh snow had obscured 336 00:13:14,240 --> 00:13:16,631 the dozens of deep crevasses. 337 00:13:16,631 --> 00:13:18,303 One of Shackleton's men described 338 00:13:18,303 --> 00:13:19,952 crossing this sort of terrain as like 339 00:13:19,952 --> 00:13:22,483 walking over the glass roof 340 00:13:22,483 --> 00:13:24,665 of a railway station. 341 00:13:24,665 --> 00:13:27,289 We fell through more times than I can remember, 342 00:13:27,289 --> 00:13:30,981 usually just putting a ski or a boot through the snow. 343 00:13:30,981 --> 00:13:32,281 Occasionally we went in 344 00:13:32,281 --> 00:13:33,604 all the way up to our armpits, 345 00:13:33,604 --> 00:13:37,157 but thankfully never deeper than that. 346 00:13:37,157 --> 00:13:39,757 And less than five weeks ago, 347 00:13:39,757 --> 00:13:41,313 after 105 days, we crossed 348 00:13:41,313 --> 00:13:44,912 this oddly inauspicious finish line, 349 00:13:44,912 --> 00:13:47,814 the coast of Ross Island on the New Zealand coast of Antarctica. 350 00:13:47,814 --> 00:13:49,834 You can see the ice in the foreground 351 00:13:49,834 --> 00:13:52,876 and the sort of rubbly rock behind that. 352 00:13:52,876 --> 00:13:54,757 Behind us lay an unbroken ski trail 353 00:13:54,757 --> 00:13:56,568 of nearly 1,800 miles. 354 00:13:56,568 --> 00:13:59,076 We made the longest ever polar journey on foot, 355 00:13:59,076 --> 00:14:01,026 something I've been dreaming of doing 356 00:14:01,026 --> 00:14:03,255 for a decade. 357 00:14:03,255 --> 00:14:05,461 And looking back, 358 00:14:05,461 --> 00:14:07,876 I still stand by all the things 359 00:14:07,876 --> 00:14:09,338 I've been saying for years 360 00:14:09,338 --> 00:14:11,637 about the importance of goals 361 00:14:11,637 --> 00:14:15,329 and determination and self-belief, 362 00:14:15,329 --> 00:14:17,117 but I'll also believe that I haven't given 363 00:14:17,117 --> 00:14:19,810 much thought to what happens 364 00:14:19,810 --> 00:14:23,432 when you reach the all-consuming goal 365 00:14:23,432 --> 00:14:27,240 that you've dedicated most of your adult life too, 366 00:14:27,240 --> 00:14:29,051 and the reality is that I'm still figuring 367 00:14:29,051 --> 00:14:30,630 that bit out. 368 00:14:30,630 --> 00:14:34,461 As I said, there are very few superficial signs that I've been away. 369 00:14:34,461 --> 00:14:35,762 I've put on 30 pounds. 370 00:14:35,762 --> 00:14:37,155 I've got some very faint 371 00:14:37,155 --> 00:14:39,500 — they're probably covered in makeup now — frostbite scars. 372 00:14:39,500 --> 00:14:40,893 I've got one on my nose, one on each cheek, 373 00:14:40,893 --> 00:14:42,333 from where the goggles are, 374 00:14:42,333 --> 00:14:44,608 but inside I am a very 375 00:14:44,608 --> 00:14:47,116 different person indeed. 376 00:14:47,116 --> 00:14:49,925 If I'm honest, 377 00:14:49,925 --> 00:14:52,387 Antarctica challenged me 378 00:14:52,387 --> 00:14:55,010 and humbled me so deeply 379 00:14:55,010 --> 00:14:56,473 that I'm not sure I'll ever be able 380 00:14:56,473 --> 00:14:59,027 to put it into words. 381 00:14:59,027 --> 00:15:02,603 I'm still struggling to piece together my thoughts. 382 00:15:02,603 --> 00:15:06,248 That I'm standing here telling this story 383 00:15:06,248 --> 00:15:08,640 is proof that we all 384 00:15:08,640 --> 00:15:11,356 can accomplish great things, 385 00:15:11,356 --> 00:15:13,260 through ambition, through passion, 386 00:15:13,260 --> 00:15:15,582 through sheer stubbornness, 387 00:15:15,582 --> 00:15:17,347 by refusing to quit, 388 00:15:17,347 --> 00:15:18,833 that if you dream something hard enough, 389 00:15:18,833 --> 00:15:19,971 as Sting said, 390 00:15:19,971 --> 00:15:23,384 it does indeed come to pass. 391 00:15:23,384 --> 00:15:25,520 But I'm also standing here saying, 392 00:15:25,520 --> 00:15:28,051 you know what, that cliche 393 00:15:28,051 --> 00:15:30,628 about the journey being more important 394 00:15:30,651 --> 00:15:32,671 than the destination? 395 00:15:32,671 --> 00:15:35,992 There's something in that. 396 00:15:35,992 --> 00:15:38,221 The closer I got to my finish line, 397 00:15:38,221 --> 00:15:42,377 that rubbly, rocky coast of Ross Island, 398 00:15:42,377 --> 00:15:43,631 the more I started to realize 399 00:15:43,631 --> 00:15:45,395 that the biggest lesson 400 00:15:45,395 --> 00:15:47,741 that this very long, very hard walk 401 00:15:47,741 --> 00:15:49,761 might be teaching me 402 00:15:49,761 --> 00:15:51,293 is that happiness 403 00:15:51,293 --> 00:15:53,754 is not a finish line, 404 00:15:53,754 --> 00:15:55,194 that for us humans, 405 00:15:55,194 --> 00:15:57,400 the perfection that so many of us 406 00:15:57,400 --> 00:15:58,793 seem to dream of 407 00:15:58,793 --> 00:16:02,740 might not ever be truly attainable, 408 00:16:02,740 --> 00:16:05,666 and that if we can't feel content 409 00:16:05,666 --> 00:16:11,029 here, today, now, on our journeys 410 00:16:11,029 --> 00:16:13,676 amidst the mess and the striving 411 00:16:13,676 --> 00:16:15,534 that we all inhabit, the open loops, 412 00:16:15,534 --> 00:16:18,204 the half-finished to-do lists, 413 00:16:18,204 --> 00:16:21,106 the could-do-better-next-times, 414 00:16:21,106 --> 00:16:24,055 then we might never feel it. 415 00:16:24,055 --> 00:16:27,631 A lot of people have asked me, what next? 416 00:16:27,631 --> 00:16:31,299 Right now, I am very happy just recovering 417 00:16:31,299 --> 00:16:34,597 and in front of hotel buffets, 418 00:16:34,597 --> 00:16:39,612 but as Bob Hope put it, 419 00:16:39,612 --> 00:16:41,678 I feel very humble, 420 00:16:41,678 --> 00:16:45,347 but I think I have the strength of character to fight it. 421 00:16:45,347 --> 00:16:47,297 Thank you. 422 00:16:47,297 --> 00:16:50,975 (Applause)