[Script Info]
Title: 
[Events]
Format: Layer, Start, End, Style, Name, MarginL, MarginR, MarginV, Effect, Text
Dialogue: 0,0:00:06.39,0:00:09.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Waste in fashion is on a massive scale.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:09.82,0:00:13.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's an industry where less than 1%\Nof recycled textiles
Dialogue: 0,0:00:13.81,0:00:16.98,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,are converted into new wearable materials.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:17.16,0:00:19.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Even more ends up in landfills.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:19.62,0:00:21.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But very gradually, that may be changing.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:22.41,0:00:26.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm traveling to the Isle of Wight,\Noff the UK's southern coast,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:26.24,0:00:27.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to find out more.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:27.98,0:00:30.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We are on our way\Nto the Ellen MacArthur Foundation,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:30.40,0:00:34.04,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is a nonprofit\Nthat focuses on the circular economy.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:34.71,0:00:37.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The foundation promotes\Na vision for a fashion economy
Dialogue: 0,0:00:37.56,0:00:39.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in which nothing ends up as waste.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:39.90,0:00:42.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm meeting Laura Belmond,\Na project manager.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:42.31,0:00:43.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Hi, I'm Laura.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:43.31,0:00:45.31,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Welcome to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:45.31,0:00:49.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Every second, the equivalent\Nof one rubbish truckload of clothing
Dialogue: 0,0:00:49.30,0:00:52.93,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is landfilled or incinerated globally.
Dialogue: 0,0:00:52.93,0:00:56.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In a circular economy, instead of it\Noperating in this one-way system,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:56.44,0:00:58.37,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,we, from the very outset,
Dialogue: 0,0:00:58.37,0:01:02.17,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,look at creating something that designs\Nout the waste from the beginning.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:02.17,0:01:04.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In terms of business opportunity,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:04.05,0:01:06.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,there's a huge spectrum for the companies
Dialogue: 0,0:01:06.48,0:01:08.70,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to actually move towards\Na circular economy.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:09.51,0:01:13.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,One company working towards\Na circular model is a nearby freshwater.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:14.81,0:01:16.34,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Welcome to the team, I'm Martin.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:16.34,0:01:17.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Madison. Nice to meet you.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:17.58,0:01:21.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Teemill is an online platform\Nbuilt by the clothing company Rapanui.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:21.94,0:01:26.25,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It allows brands to print and create\Ntheir own sustainable garments.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:26.71,0:01:29.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,All of its products\Nare made from organic cotton,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:29.56,0:01:31.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and central to its business model
Dialogue: 0,0:01:31.13,0:01:35.00,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is combating the inefficiency\Nbuilt into the fashion industry.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:35.96,0:01:40.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,One of the big problems with fashion,\Nas well as the material wastage,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:40.81,0:01:42.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is actually the overproduction.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:42.73,0:01:43.73,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It's a stock way.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:43.73,0:01:46.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We actually make what people need\Nwhen they need it,
Dialogue: 0,0:01:46.16,0:01:50.95,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which means making products\Nin the seconds after they're ordered.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:52.19,0:01:56.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In 2018, Teemill shipped 1 million shirts.
Dialogue: 0,0:01:57.10,0:02:00.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The company estimates\Nthat using sustainable materials
Dialogue: 0,0:02:00.05,0:02:02.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,adds about 25% of cost,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:02.46,0:02:06.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but says it offsets that by maximizing\Nefficiencies in other places.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:07.72,0:02:08.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It costs more money.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:09.74,0:02:12.24,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So, what we need to do is find savings.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:13.86,0:02:16.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Teemill minimizes waste\Nand streamlines production
Dialogue: 0,0:02:16.80,0:02:19.35,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,using its own creative engineering.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:19.99,0:02:22.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The whole factory is powered\Nby renewable energy.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:22.28,0:02:25.21,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Everything that we make\Nis designed from the start
Dialogue: 0,0:02:25.21,0:02:27.46,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,to come back to us when it's worn out.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:27.74,0:02:32.12,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,So every Teemill T-shirt\Nhas this bar code on the care label,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:32.12,0:02:34.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which when you're done with your T-shirt,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:34.26,0:02:35.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,you can scan it,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:35.26,0:02:37.01,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and it'll generate a postage label
Dialogue: 0,0:02:37.01,0:02:39.40,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and allows you to send\Nthe shirt back for free,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:39.40,0:02:42.72,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and then Teemill gives customers\Na discount on their next order
Dialogue: 0,0:02:42.72,0:02:45.05,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,in order to incentivize people to recycle
Dialogue: 0,0:02:45.05,0:02:47.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,instead of throw\Ntheir clothes in the trash.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:47.75,0:02:50.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,There are, of course,\Na variety of approaches
Dialogue: 0,0:02:50.30,0:02:53.18,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,being used to move closer\Nto a circular economy.
Dialogue: 0,0:02:53.56,0:02:54.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In Central London,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:54.56,0:02:57.53,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,I'm meeting with Cindy Rhodes\Nof Worn Again Technologies,
Dialogue: 0,0:02:57.53,0:03:01.58,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which focuses on recycling textiles\Nat the molecular level.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:01.70,0:03:05.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We've developed a process\Nthat can take polyester and cotton,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:05.64,0:03:06.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,dissolve it in a vat,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:06.84,0:03:09.59,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,separate both the polyester and cotton.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:10.05,0:03:13.26,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Blended fabrics tend\Nto be harder to recycle.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:13.76,0:03:16.66,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,This here is a polyester pellet,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:17.07,0:03:20.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which is the building block\Nthat then gets melted down,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:21.00,0:03:24.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,extruded into fiber yarn and textiles.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:24.90,0:03:27.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Then what we're able to do\Nwith the leftover cotton
Dialogue: 0,0:03:27.56,0:03:30.60,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is dissolve that,\Nseparate out all the dyes,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:30.60,0:03:34.33,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,which then get separated\Nand spun back into a fiber.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:35.38,0:03:39.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Worn Again plans to license\Nits technology to other businesses,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:39.50,0:03:41.86,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,crucially at an affordable price.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:42.37,0:03:46.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It was really important\Nthat the process itself is low cost,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:46.80,0:03:50.61,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that we're not creating \Na premium product
Dialogue: 0,0:03:50.61,0:03:52.71,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,that the industry has to pay more for,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:52.71,0:03:55.30,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that consumers ultimately\Nhave to pay more for it.
Dialogue: 0,0:03:55.30,0:03:59.63,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,In nearby Islington, Jonathan Mitchell,\Nfounder of Brothers We Stand,
Dialogue: 0,0:03:59.63,0:04:02.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,is tackling the challenge\Nfrom a different angle.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:02.49,0:04:04.80,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Brothers We Stand,\Na commerce online retailer
Dialogue: 0,0:04:04.80,0:04:07.56,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,where you can shop menswear\Nthat is made more sustainably,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:07.56,0:04:10.75,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,often made from recycled materials,\Nbut crucially also made to last.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:11.07,0:04:13.83,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,The company makes\Na small amount of clothing itself,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:13.83,0:04:15.79,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and that's all of its suppliers.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:16.64,0:04:18.41,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,We have our six-point standard,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:18.41,0:04:21.64,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and every product on our site\Nmust meet that standard.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:21.64,0:04:24.23,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,And it includes points\Nlike designed to please,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:24.23,0:04:25.28,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,made to last,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:25.28,0:04:28.13,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and also stand out social\Nand environmental impact.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:28.50,0:04:32.48,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Brothers We Stand says production cost\Nusing sustainable materials
Dialogue: 0,0:04:32.48,0:04:35.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,around one and a half times\Nhigher for basic T-shirts,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:35.74,0:04:38.10,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and customers do pay a premium.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:38.49,0:04:39.49,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,But despite that,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:39.49,0:04:43.74,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,sales have grown by more than 50%\Neach of the last two years,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:44.08,0:04:46.07,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,albeit from a small base.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:46.51,0:04:50.15,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,More people wanting to consume clothes,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:50.15,0:04:52.69,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and also other things more sustainably,
Dialogue: 0,0:04:52.69,0:04:55.16,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,and I want to provide\Na solution to these people.
Dialogue: 0,0:04:56.12,0:05:00.94,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A recent study by McKinsey\Nfound that 78% of sourcing managers
Dialogue: 0,0:05:00.94,0:05:05.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,said that by 2025, sustainability\Nwould be a significant factor
Dialogue: 0,0:05:05.44,0:05:08.44,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,for consumers purchasing\Nmass-market apparel.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:08.86,0:05:10.81,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,It will not be quick or easy,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:11.14,0:05:13.02,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,but as we saw in the Isle of Wight,
Dialogue: 0,0:05:13.02,0:05:16.97,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,companies are already beginning\Nto build circular models on a large scale.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:17.27,0:05:18.84,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,A sign of things to come.
Dialogue: 0,0:05:18.94,0:05:23.03,Default,,0000,0000,0000,,Subtitles by Maurício Kakuei Tanaka\NReview by Jenny Lam-Chowdhury