WEBVTT 00:00:00.160 --> 00:00:04.480 three two one 00:00:04.560 --> 00:00:08.000 go this is the video about the last 00:00:08.000 --> 00:00:12.360 unsolved problem of climbing 00:00:14.120 --> 00:00:17.199 ropes it's a deep dive into the science 00:00:17.199 --> 00:00:19.720 behind robe development in and out in 00:00:19.720 --> 00:00:22.960 and out and 00:00:24.519 --> 00:00:28.080 testing including the microscopic world 00:00:28.080 --> 00:00:31.800 of rope failures some new exciting 00:00:31.800 --> 00:00:33.960 Technologies you do not 00:00:33.960 --> 00:00:38.079 load the cut resistant fiber and me H 00:00:38.079 --> 00:00:40.200 any any last 00:00:40.200 --> 00:00:41.760 words 00:00:41.760 --> 00:00:46.199 uh volunteering to do some human 00:00:46.199 --> 00:00:50.120 testing nowadays ropes are almost 00:00:50.120 --> 00:00:52.680 unbreakable so that's good for your fear 00:00:52.680 --> 00:00:55.960 of falling but what we are about to 00:00:55.960 --> 00:01:00.079 talk might not be so great yeah this is 00:01:00.079 --> 00:01:03.879 a standard test of climbing 00:01:03.879 --> 00:01:06.640 ropes a steel mass is dropped from 00:01:06.640 --> 00:01:10.400 almost 5 m causing the forces more than 00:01:10.400 --> 00:01:12.720 double of what you can achieve in real 00:01:12.720 --> 00:01:16.040 life cuz it's unbreakable if you try to 00:01:16.040 --> 00:01:18.920 literally break it if you pull on it 00:01:18.920 --> 00:01:20.840 there is almost no chance that it will 00:01:20.840 --> 00:01:24.200 snap no but first your back will 00:01:24.200 --> 00:01:27.520 snap but when we talk about cutting I 00:01:27.520 --> 00:01:29.920 was surprised that till this day there 00:01:29.920 --> 00:01:32.799 there is no standard for how cut 00:01:32.799 --> 00:01:35.399 resistant rope needs to be and it's not 00:01:35.399 --> 00:01:38.320 that hard to cut the rope under tension 00:01:38.320 --> 00:01:39.880 which means that there is no 00:01:39.880 --> 00:01:42.680 standardized test which would measure 00:01:42.680 --> 00:01:46.119 how good the Rope is against situations 00:01:46.119 --> 00:01:48.560 like 00:01:48.840 --> 00:01:51.680 this I mean it's not like no one worked 00:01:51.680 --> 00:01:53.520 on it uh it's it's a really difficult 00:01:53.520 --> 00:01:56.039 topic and a lot of institutes 00:01:56.039 --> 00:01:58.280 manufacturers notified bodies and 00:01:58.280 --> 00:02:01.360 Laboratories worked on that 00:02:01.360 --> 00:02:03.880 now before we start breaking ropes a 00:02:03.880 --> 00:02:07.200 quick detour to the 19th century the 00:02:07.200 --> 00:02:10.080 early days of climbing with the best 00:02:10.080 --> 00:02:12.360 advice you would get back then is that 00:02:12.360 --> 00:02:16.000 the leader must not fall we used hemp 00:02:16.000 --> 00:02:18.959 propes made for agricultural purposes 00:02:18.959 --> 00:02:21.879 that had almost no stretch so if you 00:02:21.879 --> 00:02:24.760 fall you either going to break your rope 00:02:24.760 --> 00:02:30.720 or your ribs shall we go climbing 00:02:30.760 --> 00:02:34.200 I brought some ropes brand new smells 00:02:34.200 --> 00:02:36.599 organic want to take a whip on it are we 00:02:36.599 --> 00:02:39.159 doing some uh test falls on 00:02:39.159 --> 00:02:42.920 this not sure you want to now as you can 00:02:42.920 --> 00:02:45.959 imagine these agricultural ropes didn't 00:02:45.959 --> 00:02:49.200 had much quality control and that's why 00:02:49.200 --> 00:02:50.280 in 00:02:50.280 --> 00:02:54.000 1862 this serious looking Swiss man 00:02:54.000 --> 00:02:56.640 decided to bring Swiss quality to 00:02:56.640 --> 00:02:59.840 climbing ropes and here mammut was born 00:02:59.840 --> 00:03:01.760 a year later followed by a German 00:03:01.760 --> 00:03:05.080 company Eder and multiple Decades of 00:03:05.080 --> 00:03:07.480 craziest 00:03:07.480 --> 00:03:09.159 climbing 00:03:09.159 --> 00:03:13.080 yeah now in 1935 everything started to 00:03:13.080 --> 00:03:16.400 change when the chemical company dupond 00:03:16.400 --> 00:03:19.599 invented nylon world's first synthetic 00:03:19.599 --> 00:03:22.959 fiber yes boys this is it this is a 00:03:22.959 --> 00:03:25.879 synthetic fiber you mean we make cloth 00:03:25.879 --> 00:03:29.280 out of that yes we do actually to make 00:03:29.280 --> 00:03:32.840 nylon you only need two components acid 00:03:32.840 --> 00:03:35.360 and this thing that I cannot pronounce 00:03:35.360 --> 00:03:37.080 so then I'm going to reach in here and 00:03:37.080 --> 00:03:38.680 where the interface is I'm going to pull 00:03:38.680 --> 00:03:43.080 out some nylon so here we go now we'll 00:03:43.080 --> 00:03:44.799 see how much nylon we can pull out of 00:03:44.799 --> 00:03:45.720 this 00:03:45.720 --> 00:03:50.080 thing there's a meter or 00:03:50.080 --> 00:03:54.319 so two so on a large scale this is done 00:03:54.319 --> 00:03:56.079 not with a whole bunch of people doing 00:03:56.079 --> 00:03:57.400 this of course 00:03:57.400 --> 00:04:00.920 but by the way take a guess who was the 00:04:00.920 --> 00:04:04.560 first user of such great 00:04:04.560 --> 00:04:07.040 material certainly is a long time since 00:04:07.040 --> 00:04:08.840 we've seen legs looking like that 00:04:08.840 --> 00:04:10.200 perhaps I should say stocking was 00:04:10.200 --> 00:04:13.120 looking like that that's right women 00:04:13.120 --> 00:04:15.840 they love nylon stalking so much that 00:04:15.840 --> 00:04:18.919 they gathered in crowds real Nyon and 00:04:18.919 --> 00:04:21.600 fully fashioned very nice to see again 00:04:21.600 --> 00:04:24.040 from any 00:04:24.120 --> 00:04:27.960 angle and then World War II broke out 00:04:27.960 --> 00:04:30.320 due to the conflict with Japan United 00:04:30.320 --> 00:04:34.039 States lost access to Silk suppliers so 00:04:34.039 --> 00:04:36.759 military needed to transition all silk 00:04:36.759 --> 00:04:40.600 products like parachutes to nylon which 00:04:40.600 --> 00:04:43.440 greatly accelerated development of nylon 00:04:43.440 --> 00:04:47.199 but women felt the shortages but no 00:04:47.199 --> 00:04:49.240 worries you can always paint legs to 00:04:49.240 --> 00:04:52.039 look like they have stockings turned out 00:04:52.039 --> 00:04:54.240 to be a great 00:04:54.240 --> 00:04:57.120 business after the war nylon found its 00:04:57.120 --> 00:05:00.639 way to Europe and mammut launched a rope 00:05:00.639 --> 00:05:03.440 which can actually stretch but a year 00:05:03.440 --> 00:05:06.000 later Eder invented the C mantle 00:05:06.000 --> 00:05:09.919 technology which was an even bigger 00:05:09.919 --> 00:05:11.840 Revolution it's a little bit funny 00:05:11.840 --> 00:05:15.280 because a reed invented the kmle r the 00:05:15.280 --> 00:05:17.400 owner of Mamud was not really convinced 00:05:17.400 --> 00:05:20.039 by the New Concept he wanted to stick to 00:05:20.039 --> 00:05:23.120 the Twisted one and just a couple years 00:05:23.120 --> 00:05:25.400 later um M would also launch the first 00:05:25.400 --> 00:05:27.960 ctal Rob so very quickly realized that 00:05:27.960 --> 00:05:30.759 oh that's actually a good idea yes curl 00:05:30.759 --> 00:05:32.600 mantle ropes are made out of two 00:05:32.600 --> 00:05:35.160 components the core strands that are 00:05:35.160 --> 00:05:37.680 twisted and the shift which is braided 00:05:37.680 --> 00:05:39.919 around to protect the 00:05:39.919 --> 00:05:43.080 core okay keep going keep going very 00:05:43.080 --> 00:05:47.120 expensive rope with my uh with my hourly 00:05:47.120 --> 00:05:49.919 pay okay so you have two different types 00:05:49.919 --> 00:05:54.680 of spools here the red one run into this 00:05:54.680 --> 00:05:57.479 direction by Red we mean this yeah the 00:05:57.479 --> 00:06:00.520 red one go counter clockwise and the 00:06:00.520 --> 00:06:04.720 yellow ones clockwise and they always go 00:06:04.720 --> 00:06:07.960 in and out in and out in order to create 00:06:07.960 --> 00:06:10.080 the 00:06:15.280 --> 00:06:18.039 braid it's actually quite cool to see 00:06:18.039 --> 00:06:20.840 this if you look at the core strands 00:06:20.840 --> 00:06:23.360 from Modern climbing ropes they also 00:06:23.360 --> 00:06:25.800 have this kind of twist this is like 00:06:25.800 --> 00:06:29.000 exactly the same as this in theory yes 00:06:29.000 --> 00:06:31.520 why is there many core strands and not 00:06:31.520 --> 00:06:34.520 one big core strand Twisted together 00:06:34.520 --> 00:06:36.520 that's a good question we have cores 00:06:36.520 --> 00:06:38.800 that go in s direction that are twisted 00:06:38.800 --> 00:06:41.400 in One Direction and other cores that 00:06:41.400 --> 00:06:43.240 are twisted in the other direction this 00:06:43.240 --> 00:06:45.199 is something that is a reoccurring theme 00:06:45.199 --> 00:06:47.360 in the twines that are used in a rope 00:06:47.360 --> 00:06:50.280 that you always differ the direction to 00:06:50.280 --> 00:06:52.759 kind of work against the 00:06:52.759 --> 00:06:56.000 natural uh motion of twisting now back 00:06:56.000 --> 00:06:57.639 in the days when the military was 00:06:57.639 --> 00:07:00.639 testing parachute deployment we noticed 00:07:00.639 --> 00:07:04.080 that forces higher than 15g can result 00:07:04.080 --> 00:07:07.240 in injuries to The Spine and Neck and 00:07:07.240 --> 00:07:09.560 since climbers also don't like breaking 00:07:09.560 --> 00:07:11.879 their backs they decided to borrow that 00:07:11.879 --> 00:07:14.440 limit when the uiaa standard was 00:07:14.440 --> 00:07:16.599 developed the developers back in the day 00:07:16.599 --> 00:07:18.800 said it's impossible to reach the limit 00:07:18.800 --> 00:07:21.479 of the 12 kons that is interesting that 00:07:21.479 --> 00:07:23.599 at first we came up with the standard 00:07:23.599 --> 00:07:25.599 that nobody could achieve and then only 00:07:25.599 --> 00:07:28.360 later we managed to achieve it okay in 00:07:28.360 --> 00:07:30.919 1964 we we got the first rope that is 00:07:30.919 --> 00:07:35.440 certified to not break our backs and now 00:07:35.440 --> 00:07:38.319 80 years later and we're still using the 00:07:38.319 --> 00:07:40.720 same curl mantle technology which is 00:07:40.720 --> 00:07:42.840 kind of impressive but what's not 00:07:42.840 --> 00:07:45.840 impressive that till this day our ropes 00:07:45.840 --> 00:07:48.639 still have the last unsolved problem 00:07:48.639 --> 00:07:51.240 that they are not that hard to cut 00:07:51.240 --> 00:07:53.720 especially when they are under tension 00:07:53.720 --> 00:07:56.919 give me some sharpish objects sharp edge 00:07:56.919 --> 00:08:01.440 object sharpish sharpish 00:08:03.159 --> 00:08:04.280 oh 00:08:04.280 --> 00:08:07.240 good but that's so 00:08:07.240 --> 00:08:11.639 tiny this is dangerous this bringing a 00:08:11.639 --> 00:08:14.879 knife and a file so we have a 00:08:14.879 --> 00:08:18.479 file which is uh it's a metal file we 00:08:18.479 --> 00:08:21.759 have a knife and this 00:08:21.759 --> 00:08:25.319 thing in k no I will start with a dull 00:08:25.319 --> 00:08:27.960 one and if it turns out to be too much 00:08:27.960 --> 00:08:30.159 work I will go to sharper one so at 00:08:30.159 --> 00:08:33.000 first we pull the Rope to 80 kg this 00:08:33.000 --> 00:08:37.039 imitates a climber simply hanging on the 00:08:37.039 --> 00:08:41.000 Rope oh wow it's not that hard to 00:08:41.000 --> 00:08:42.560 cut 00:08:42.560 --> 00:08:46.160 and yeah this file is not that sharp 00:08:46.160 --> 00:08:48.070 kind of 00:08:48.070 --> 00:08:51.219 [Music] 00:08:54.270 --> 00:08:56.959 [Music] 00:08:56.959 --> 00:09:01.160 scary no show 00:09:01.600 --> 00:09:03.800 not as spectacular as you'd hit what I 00:09:03.800 --> 00:09:06.720 want to actually now 00:09:10.800 --> 00:09:13.760 try Okay significantly 00:09:13.760 --> 00:09:15.920 harder yeah if it's like completely 00:09:15.920 --> 00:09:18.560 relaxed 00:09:23.880 --> 00:09:27.959 huh train you got really red 00:09:27.959 --> 00:09:30.360 dude I just wanted to see how much 00:09:30.360 --> 00:09:33.600 harder it is to cut not underload so 00:09:33.600 --> 00:09:35.880 let's try what happens at 00:09:35.880 --> 00:09:40.560 3.5 kons it's a hard fall load let's go 00:09:40.560 --> 00:09:43.480 do I need the safety something you think 00:09:43.480 --> 00:09:46.480 I'm going to die at three no no five 00:09:46.480 --> 00:09:48.480 have you tried this before 00:09:48.480 --> 00:09:52.000 no are you brave enough is the question 00:09:52.000 --> 00:09:55.560 now my camera man is going 00:09:55.560 --> 00:09:57.920 away you 00:09:57.920 --> 00:10:01.839 ready yeah I'm 00:10:04.079 --> 00:10:09.519 not it said something it wants to 00:10:12.839 --> 00:10:16.880 talk let adjusting to the 00:10:22.000 --> 00:10:25.399 weight it's War wow I'm barely barely 00:10:25.399 --> 00:10:27.680 doing anything oh now be careful with 00:10:27.680 --> 00:10:30.880 your fingers 00:10:33.390 --> 00:10:37.920 [Music] 00:10:37.920 --> 00:10:39.279 I think it 00:10:39.279 --> 00:10:43.680 will wow I barely touched it so as you 00:10:43.680 --> 00:10:46.000 can see tension in ropes plays a big 00:10:46.000 --> 00:10:49.040 role in Cut resistance and now some of 00:10:49.040 --> 00:10:51.320 you might be thinking why can't we 00:10:51.320 --> 00:10:53.600 simply add some kind of material in the 00:10:53.600 --> 00:10:55.839 Rope which would make them much harder 00:10:55.839 --> 00:10:58.360 to cut well we do have ropes that are 00:10:58.360 --> 00:11:01.440 made out of the Nema and aramite okay so 00:11:01.440 --> 00:11:04.160 this is a glacier cord and where is it 00:11:04.160 --> 00:11:06.560 used it's for securing yourself against 00:11:06.560 --> 00:11:09.959 faults in a crass if you would fall in 00:11:09.959 --> 00:11:11.920 there you have covered with snow so the 00:11:11.920 --> 00:11:14.920 snow kind of dampens the Fall mhm so 00:11:14.920 --> 00:11:16.920 this is why you don't need the Dynamics 00:11:16.920 --> 00:11:19.440 in this type of rope this is a shoelace 00:11:19.440 --> 00:11:22.680 yeah 6 mm is this dyo or yeah on the 00:11:22.680 --> 00:11:25.399 inside it's a dyema on the outside it's 00:11:25.399 --> 00:11:27.920 a polyester AR and this Glacier people 00:11:27.920 --> 00:11:30.600 came up with a thought that it's okay to 00:11:30.600 --> 00:11:33.800 fall on this well cuz you don't fall 00:11:33.800 --> 00:11:36.760 well then don't use it so we put this 00:11:36.760 --> 00:11:39.320 cord in a drop tower with relatively 00:11:39.320 --> 00:11:41.440 small amount of slack and we wanted to 00:11:41.440 --> 00:11:43.480 see what happens when you apply a 00:11:43.480 --> 00:11:46.519 dynamic load on the super strong yet 00:11:46.519 --> 00:11:49.040 stiff 00:11:49.040 --> 00:11:52.120 material oh my God it's always so loud 00:11:52.120 --> 00:11:55.720 in here what was the force 7.9 so what 00:11:55.720 --> 00:11:58.000 force do you expect out of dynamic rope 00:11:58.000 --> 00:12:01.959 on the same fall m I would say around 00:12:01.959 --> 00:12:08.480 3.6 3.7 3.5 so 3.6 and 3.5 want to play 00:12:08.480 --> 00:12:10.680 some bets what's your guess 3 kilon 00:12:10.680 --> 00:12:13.920 Neons okay he's paying for 00:12:13.920 --> 00:12:16.370 dinner no the closest one p for the 00:12:16.370 --> 00:12:19.800 [Laughter] 00:12:19.800 --> 00:12:22.530 dinner 00:12:22.530 --> 00:12:23.839 [Music] 00:12:23.839 --> 00:12:27.519 what okay so I'm playing for the dinner 00:12:27.519 --> 00:12:29.560 so as you can see material which is 00:12:29.560 --> 00:12:32.800 rated for 14 kiltons for a static 00:12:32.800 --> 00:12:36.839 scenario broke at around 8 in a dynamic 00:12:36.839 --> 00:12:40.160 drop which is a peculiar observation on 00:12:40.160 --> 00:12:42.680 itself but that also shows that 00:12:42.680 --> 00:12:44.600 incorporating these super strong 00:12:44.600 --> 00:12:47.240 materials into Dynamic climbing ropes is 00:12:47.240 --> 00:12:49.920 not that trivial now the second problem 00:12:49.920 --> 00:12:51.920 comes from saying that if you can't 00:12:51.920 --> 00:12:54.360 measure it you can't improve it and 00:12:54.360 --> 00:12:56.440 turns out that measuring cut resistancy 00:12:56.440 --> 00:12:59.199 in climbing ropes is a very tricky top 00:12:59.199 --> 00:13:03.800 IPC in 2002 UAA proposed a test similar 00:13:03.800 --> 00:13:06.519 to a standard drop test but here the 00:13:06.519 --> 00:13:10.199 Rope was falling over a sharp edge but 00:13:10.199 --> 00:13:12.600 the problem was the values that we got 00:13:12.600 --> 00:13:14.480 or the values that they got back then 00:13:14.480 --> 00:13:17.000 were just inconsistent within the test 00:13:17.000 --> 00:13:18.760 but also between different institutes 00:13:18.760 --> 00:13:21.399 and Laboratories so 2 years later the 00:13:21.399 --> 00:13:24.440 test was withdrawn and since then a lot 00:13:24.440 --> 00:13:26.800 of different tests were tried out by 00:13:26.800 --> 00:13:29.120 different organizations and mammut also 00:13:29.120 --> 00:13:31.760 also had their own idea it's a pendulum 00:13:31.760 --> 00:13:34.320 swing with a sharp knife is dropped onto 00:13:34.320 --> 00:13:38.040 a pre-loaded rope so instead of the Rope 00:13:38.040 --> 00:13:40.120 falling with the weight you had rope 00:13:40.120 --> 00:13:42.480 static and the knife was falling exactly 00:13:42.480 --> 00:13:44.320 the knife was falling and you measured 00:13:44.320 --> 00:13:46.320 how high the knife came after the 00:13:46.320 --> 00:13:48.720 cutting and then you could calculate how 00:13:48.720 --> 00:13:50.839 much energy was necessary to cut it so 00:13:50.839 --> 00:13:53.120 we worked three years on that but at 00:13:53.120 --> 00:13:54.920 some point we also had to say yeah it's 00:13:54.920 --> 00:13:58.120 giving inconsistent values opened more 00:13:58.120 --> 00:14:00.600 questions than now the common problem 00:14:00.600 --> 00:14:02.839 with many of those tests were that 00:14:02.839 --> 00:14:05.199 either the forces were unrealistically 00:14:05.199 --> 00:14:08.079 high or the Dynamics in those test 00:14:08.079 --> 00:14:11.079 introduced too much variability meaning 00:14:11.079 --> 00:14:13.160 when the Rope is falling on some kind of 00:14:13.160 --> 00:14:16.240 sharp edge it will never fall in exactly 00:14:16.240 --> 00:14:20.360 the same way so in 2018 edet proposed a 00:14:20.360 --> 00:14:22.880 slightly different approach where they 00:14:22.880 --> 00:14:25.600 eliminated all the Dynamics here the 00:14:25.600 --> 00:14:28.320 rope is tensioned to desired load and 00:14:28.320 --> 00:14:31.320 then the discs spins and cuts the Rope 00:14:31.320 --> 00:14:33.920 and the Machine is measuring how far the 00:14:33.920 --> 00:14:37.279 disc had to travel to cut the rope in 00:14:37.279 --> 00:14:40.279 2015 there was an accident where two 00:14:40.279 --> 00:14:44.440 people were lowered on a single 8.7 mm 00:14:44.440 --> 00:14:47.920 rope the Rope moved a bit over a sharp 00:14:47.920 --> 00:14:51.440 edge and it was cut and since this test 00:14:51.440 --> 00:14:53.680 reproduces the accident scenario really 00:14:53.680 --> 00:14:56.480 well edet managed to answer a very 00:14:56.480 --> 00:14:59.079 important question what had a bigger imp 00:14:59.079 --> 00:15:01.440 impact in the accident the fact that 00:15:01.440 --> 00:15:06.040 they used super thin 8.7 mm rope or that 00:15:06.040 --> 00:15:08.759 they were lowered two people at the same 00:15:08.759 --> 00:15:11.639 time first we loaded two different ropes 00:15:11.639 --> 00:15:15.920 to 160 kg imitating two climbers hanging 00:15:15.920 --> 00:15:18.199 and even though ropes had different 00:15:18.199 --> 00:15:21.519 diameters the cut resistance was very 00:15:21.519 --> 00:15:24.240 similar but then they took the same rope 00:15:24.240 --> 00:15:27.399 but loaded it with different load and 00:15:27.399 --> 00:15:31.040 this time the difference was much bigger 00:15:31.040 --> 00:15:33.560 this shows that the load on the Rope has 00:15:33.560 --> 00:15:36.600 a much bigger impact than the diameter 00:15:36.600 --> 00:15:39.519 of the Rope so a great takeaway would be 00:15:39.519 --> 00:15:41.720 to avoid practices where two people are 00:15:41.720 --> 00:15:44.519 hanging on one strand of the Rope but at 00:15:44.519 --> 00:15:48.319 the same time 160 kilos that we used is 00:15:48.319 --> 00:15:50.600 not that much when we start talking 00:15:50.600 --> 00:15:53.279 about Dynamic scenarios their forces can 00:15:53.279 --> 00:15:55.079 reach up to 4 00:15:55.079 --> 00:15:58.000 kons and also the cutting patterns 00:15:58.000 --> 00:16:00.600 become way more more complicated 00:16:00.600 --> 00:16:02.680 recently there was a very interesting 00:16:02.680 --> 00:16:04.920 paper published which took ropes that 00:16:04.920 --> 00:16:06.959 were cut and looked through the 00:16:06.959 --> 00:16:09.639 microscope and what they found was four 00:16:09.639 --> 00:16:12.480 dominating patterns the first one was a 00:16:12.480 --> 00:16:15.519 clean cut the second one was a tiered 00:16:15.519 --> 00:16:17.759 cut as if you would be cutting with a 00:16:17.759 --> 00:16:20.040 dual knife then they found some 00:16:20.040 --> 00:16:23.000 mushrooms these happened from high-speed 00:16:23.000 --> 00:16:27.519 fiber overload and lastly molten fibers 00:16:27.519 --> 00:16:29.440 and then we looked what p patterns they 00:16:29.440 --> 00:16:32.480 will find in ropes cut by different 00:16:32.480 --> 00:16:35.759 tests starting with ederly disc which 00:16:35.759 --> 00:16:39.160 produced a lot of Clean Cuts but also a 00:16:39.160 --> 00:16:41.720 lot of tiered Cuts this probably 00:16:41.720 --> 00:16:43.920 happened because the disc actually has 00:16:43.920 --> 00:16:47.319 these small teeth next they looked into 00:16:47.319 --> 00:16:50.120 the old mammut test and this one was 00:16:50.120 --> 00:16:52.920 pretty much dominated by mushrooms and 00:16:52.920 --> 00:16:55.120 the possible explanation is because the 00:16:55.120 --> 00:16:58.040 Rope was tensioned to unrealistically 00:16:58.040 --> 00:16:59.560 high Force 00:16:59.560 --> 00:17:01.240 and of course I had a question why 00:17:01.240 --> 00:17:03.759 didn't we use more realistic loads on 00:17:03.759 --> 00:17:06.720 this test when we lowered the preloading 00:17:06.720 --> 00:17:10.720 to 3 4 Kon then uh some of these ropes 00:17:10.720 --> 00:17:12.959 have not been able to be cut we were not 00:17:12.959 --> 00:17:14.439 able to compare the results you wanted 00:17:14.439 --> 00:17:16.559 that all the ropes will be cut but then 00:17:16.559 --> 00:17:18.400 you can measure how much it takes that 00:17:18.400 --> 00:17:20.760 was the difficulty of the test yeah okay 00:17:20.760 --> 00:17:24.000 next we looked into the old uiaa test 00:17:24.000 --> 00:17:26.839 and here we found a lot of mushrooms but 00:17:26.839 --> 00:17:29.559 also a lot of molten fiber 00:17:29.559 --> 00:17:32.200 and finally they simulated a realistic 00:17:32.200 --> 00:17:34.919 Dynamic scenario where the Rope was 00:17:34.919 --> 00:17:38.520 running across a sharp granite edge and 00:17:38.520 --> 00:17:40.400 also they compar the patterns in 00:17:40.400 --> 00:17:42.320 different parts of the Rope like The 00:17:42.320 --> 00:17:45.559 Shift versus the core and after all the 00:17:45.559 --> 00:17:48.880 analysis the study concluded that no 00:17:48.880 --> 00:17:51.440 test method can fully replicate the 00:17:51.440 --> 00:17:54.559 complex breaking mechanism observed 00:17:54.559 --> 00:17:56.640 during an accident 00:17:56.640 --> 00:17:59.799 simulation so yeah a deep rap hole but 00:17:59.799 --> 00:18:03.640 this brings us to the best part of this 00:18:03.640 --> 00:18:06.559 video ah fancy this thing can go up and 00:18:06.559 --> 00:18:09.559 down yeah you don't like walking ladders 00:18:09.559 --> 00:18:11.320 so you made the machine which goes up 00:18:11.320 --> 00:18:15.559 and down Dano was climbing this Ladder 00:18:15.559 --> 00:18:18.760 Up and Down millions of times it kind of 00:18:18.760 --> 00:18:21.120 feels that it grabs the edge but it's 00:18:21.120 --> 00:18:24.960 not like super cut yeah I mean I 00:18:24.960 --> 00:18:27.799 wouldn't even think outside that this is 00:18:27.799 --> 00:18:30.640 an issue there sever edges out in the 00:18:30.640 --> 00:18:33.039 mountains that are much sharper than 00:18:33.039 --> 00:18:36.600 this yeah so if we do the tests then you 00:18:36.600 --> 00:18:38.919 will be afraid of climbing after 00:18:38.919 --> 00:18:42.960 it here you have this 45° surface so 00:18:42.960 --> 00:18:47.440 it's like 90° and then 45° cut yes cut 00:18:47.440 --> 00:18:50.159 yeah yeah so it's not actually like a 00:18:50.159 --> 00:18:53.200 pointy Edge it's relatively rounded Edge 00:18:53.200 --> 00:18:56.520 but the granite has this roughness to it 00:18:56.520 --> 00:18:59.480 yes I would say so let me get the reason 00:18:59.480 --> 00:19:01.720 we cannot make this standardized is 00:19:01.720 --> 00:19:03.360 because it's impossible to make this 00:19:03.360 --> 00:19:07.360 granite edge standard like yeah so this 00:19:07.360 --> 00:19:09.679 test setup is not something that aims to 00:19:09.679 --> 00:19:11.760 be a standardized test method that needs 00:19:11.760 --> 00:19:14.080 to be reproducible in different places 00:19:14.080 --> 00:19:17.600 so you need that exact same granite edge 00:19:17.600 --> 00:19:19.760 at in 10 different places this was not 00:19:19.760 --> 00:19:21.159 the goal it was for us in the 00:19:21.159 --> 00:19:24.159 development to learn how different 00:19:24.159 --> 00:19:25.919 constructions are behaving thicker 00:19:25.919 --> 00:19:28.159 diameters thinner diameters different 00:19:28.159 --> 00:19:30.159 shth con instructions just to get an 00:19:30.159 --> 00:19:38.080 insight for that okay ready 3 2 one and 00:19:41.880 --> 00:19:45.679 go 1 00:19:46.159 --> 00:19:48.840 go well I wouldn't want to be a climber 00:19:48.840 --> 00:19:53.400 in this case Qui cut quiet cut that's a 00:19:53.400 --> 00:19:59.640 quiet cut um 3 2 1 go 00:20:10.240 --> 00:20:13.000 W and this one's friend holding 00:20:13.000 --> 00:20:15.679 on yeah but it's just being pulled out 00:20:15.679 --> 00:20:17.960 it's not holding anymore huh so you can 00:20:17.960 --> 00:20:20.240 see where the cor strs were 00:20:20.240 --> 00:20:23.320 cut we have one left it was completely 00:20:23.320 --> 00:20:27.400 pulled out this is the original end and 00:20:27.400 --> 00:20:30.679 you can see the whole that remains and 00:20:30.679 --> 00:20:33.679 how hard is the fall what's the force to 00:20:33.679 --> 00:20:36.120 the climber I would say it's a realistic 00:20:36.120 --> 00:20:40.360 fall with realistic forces 3 kiltons or 00:20:40.360 --> 00:20:41.600 300 00:20:41.600 --> 00:20:45.120 kog all right our first rope was failing 00:20:45.120 --> 00:20:47.880 very easily so we change to a thicker 00:20:47.880 --> 00:20:55.400 one all right 3 2 1 go 00:20:58.650 --> 00:21:03.400 [Music] 00:21:03.760 --> 00:21:06.720 it's crazy cuz it looks like a tiny fall 00:21:06.720 --> 00:21:09.799 and a tiny swing and it went yesterday 00:21:09.799 --> 00:21:11.760 we basically spent the day breaking 00:21:11.760 --> 00:21:15.520 ropes and yeah I I wouldn't have go 00:21:15.520 --> 00:21:17.720 straight to the to the to the to the 00:21:17.720 --> 00:21:20.480 Rock to climb because no wasn't the goal 00:21:20.480 --> 00:21:22.520 to be the 00:21:22.520 --> 00:21:25.039 opposite well it as a climber it kind of 00:21:25.039 --> 00:21:27.159 scares you to see this a little yeah 00:21:27.159 --> 00:21:29.600 that's that's true all right moving to 00:21:29.600 --> 00:21:36.720 even thicker 9.9 mm rope 1 00:21:38.440 --> 00:21:41.200 go wow that's quick you can see the 00:21:41.200 --> 00:21:43.480 different types of cutting mechanisms 00:21:43.480 --> 00:21:45.840 here first the chef has been cut and 00:21:45.840 --> 00:21:48.320 then it kind of looks like the Rope is 00:21:48.320 --> 00:21:51.000 remaining on one position but the load 00:21:51.000 --> 00:21:52.640 is pulling more and more yeah you see 00:21:52.640 --> 00:21:54.520 the cover the the course breaking one 00:21:54.520 --> 00:21:58.600 after each other yeah so it's 3 seconds 00:21:58.600 --> 00:22:01.080 for the whole rope to break it's quick 00:22:01.080 --> 00:22:03.640 that's very quick mhm oh exciting so um 00:22:03.640 --> 00:22:05.120 shall we 00:22:05.120 --> 00:22:09.320 do okay let's do the thickest rope on 00:22:09.320 --> 00:22:14.480 our list 3 2 one 00:22:15.960 --> 00:22:20.240 go so I don't know who still buys such 00:22:20.240 --> 00:22:21.400 monster 00:22:21.400 --> 00:22:22.440 [Music] 00:22:22.440 --> 00:22:27.279 ropes but I guess here you go that's for 00:22:27.279 --> 00:22:30.520 your fear of fall fall ing the slow 00:22:30.520 --> 00:22:33.039 motion 00:22:33.039 --> 00:22:35.840 torture so yeah 00:22:35.840 --> 00:22:38.840 subscribe and I promise that the Rope is 00:22:38.840 --> 00:22:41.559 not going to 00:22:43.240 --> 00:22:48.679 break come on the button is down 00:22:50.799 --> 00:22:54.279 there we need 00:22:56.799 --> 00:23:02.039 you thank you for subscribing you're the 00:23:07.159 --> 00:23:10.240 best so as you can see while adding more 00:23:10.240 --> 00:23:12.640 material and making the ropes thicker 00:23:12.640 --> 00:23:16.400 does help a little bit it's not by much 00:23:16.400 --> 00:23:18.000 and obviously mammut wouldn't be 00:23:18.000 --> 00:23:19.960 inviting me just to show how all the 00:23:19.960 --> 00:23:22.039 ropes are failing they actually been 00:23:22.039 --> 00:23:24.679 working on something new ah so this is 00:23:24.679 --> 00:23:27.919 the new row yes so it has an extra 00:23:27.919 --> 00:23:30.640 something inside oh look at that I would 00:23:30.640 --> 00:23:32.960 not even be able to guess that it's made 00:23:32.960 --> 00:23:35.600 out of different material it feels also 00:23:35.600 --> 00:23:40.559 kind of fabric soft I was thinking you I 00:23:40.559 --> 00:23:43.480 will open this and we'll find some metal 00:23:43.480 --> 00:23:46.279 inside no it's textile and the key 00:23:46.279 --> 00:23:49.159 component is the intermediate Chief here 00:23:49.159 --> 00:23:52.080 you have here a intermediate chief that 00:23:52.080 --> 00:23:55.480 protects the core so normally ropes have 00:23:55.480 --> 00:23:58.440 shift and then they have the core and 00:23:58.440 --> 00:24:02.440 and this rope has one more sheath you 00:24:02.440 --> 00:24:04.799 can say this intermediate sheath is made 00:24:04.799 --> 00:24:08.400 of um high strength aramite fibers that 00:24:08.400 --> 00:24:11.240 have an overlength so with this 00:24:11.240 --> 00:24:15.120 overlength um they are free from tension 00:24:15.120 --> 00:24:17.720 this is actually very interesting while 00:24:17.720 --> 00:24:20.039 aramite is a super strong material 00:24:20.039 --> 00:24:22.480 commonly used in safety equipment like 00:24:22.480 --> 00:24:25.000 cut resistant gloves or bulletproof 00:24:25.000 --> 00:24:28.480 vests however as we've seen before arite 00:24:28.480 --> 00:24:29.679 is very 00:24:29.679 --> 00:24:32.399 stiff so to solve this they needed to 00:24:32.399 --> 00:24:35.080 create a design where nylon in the Rope 00:24:35.080 --> 00:24:37.520 would stretch and absorb the impact but 00:24:37.520 --> 00:24:40.760 aramide would stay without load this is 00:24:40.760 --> 00:24:43.600 the so-called we call it the hybrid 00:24:43.600 --> 00:24:46.840 Yan what is uh made of two different 00:24:46.840 --> 00:24:50.080 fibers so this middle layer is not only 00:24:50.080 --> 00:24:54.399 arite it's a hybrid yes okay and you see 00:24:54.399 --> 00:24:56.720 that there is one with a longer yarn 00:24:56.720 --> 00:25:00.760 inside yeah and one is sh okay so there 00:25:00.760 --> 00:25:04.559 is two Thin strings one is completely 00:25:04.559 --> 00:25:07.240 stretched now and the other one is 00:25:07.240 --> 00:25:09.840 curled around the stretched one yes this 00:25:09.840 --> 00:25:11.720 is the one with the over length if you 00:25:11.720 --> 00:25:13.120 load it 00:25:13.120 --> 00:25:15.399 now you do not 00:25:15.399 --> 00:25:19.080 load the cut resistant fiber okay to 00:25:19.080 --> 00:25:21.600 illustrate this is an elongation curve 00:25:21.600 --> 00:25:24.720 of a pure nylon and this is a hybrid 00:25:24.720 --> 00:25:28.360 yarn without an overlength so not good 00:25:28.360 --> 00:25:31.520 good but by introducing an overlength in 00:25:31.520 --> 00:25:34.159 aramite they managed to achieve a curve 00:25:34.159 --> 00:25:37.320 like this so basically during the fall 00:25:37.320 --> 00:25:39.760 you probably are not even going to feel 00:25:39.760 --> 00:25:43.840 any difference on this rope no nice and 00:25:43.840 --> 00:25:46.200 why is it hybrid inside why is it not 00:25:46.200 --> 00:25:50.200 all armed it will not um be held in 00:25:50.200 --> 00:25:53.399 position so you need anara because it 00:25:53.399 --> 00:25:55.760 you have the overlength anywhere and if 00:25:55.760 --> 00:25:58.799 you move with the Rope 00:25:58.799 --> 00:26:02.200 the maybe it changes the place that's a 00:26:02.200 --> 00:26:04.679 very smart design now it makes more 00:26:04.679 --> 00:26:08.039 sense how does it come back after load 00:26:08.039 --> 00:26:10.120 cuz otherwise you would stretch and then 00:26:10.120 --> 00:26:12.320 the middle layer would move somewhere 00:26:12.320 --> 00:26:14.559 but since you have some nylon in it it 00:26:14.559 --> 00:26:16.880 will reset the middle layer probably as 00:26:16.880 --> 00:26:20.200 well yes of course mhm now as a fun fact 00:26:20.200 --> 00:26:23.480 this robe has only 4% of its weight in 00:26:23.480 --> 00:26:26.799 aramite so let's see what that does 00:26:26.799 --> 00:26:28.880 ready to Launch 00:26:28.880 --> 00:26:34.600 3 two one go 00:26:35.220 --> 00:26:38.720 [Music] 00:27:04.310 --> 00:27:05.919 [Music] 00:27:05.919 --> 00:27:09.200 who oh but the core it's only hanging on 00:27:09.200 --> 00:27:12.799 the core strands yes middle sheath is 00:27:12.799 --> 00:27:15.159 offering a protective layer so it's not 00:27:15.159 --> 00:27:17.919 like the middle layer is indestructible 00:27:17.919 --> 00:27:20.200 no no of course not a but the core 00:27:20.200 --> 00:27:23.399 strands barely got any damage yeah just 00:27:23.399 --> 00:27:26.120 a tiny bit Yeah so while this middle 00:27:26.120 --> 00:27:28.480 layer was adding extra protection for 00:27:28.480 --> 00:27:32.600 the Rope it was still eventually cut 00:27:32.600 --> 00:27:35.799 right outside of the camera frame 00:27:35.799 --> 00:27:41.440 sorry 3 2 one 00:27:43.159 --> 00:27:45.799 go it's about does it hold in this 00:27:45.799 --> 00:27:48.360 scenario or not mhm so we are kind of 00:27:48.360 --> 00:27:51.000 deducting from this test setup that it 00:27:51.000 --> 00:27:54.320 does perform significantly better than 00:27:54.320 --> 00:27:56.480 normal inline rope with the same 00:27:56.480 --> 00:27:59.760 diameter so if you look in keeping the 00:27:59.760 --> 00:28:03.159 same weight of the rope and same handle 00:28:03.159 --> 00:28:05.360 you will get an extra safety margin on 00:28:05.360 --> 00:28:06.919 top but the thing is something that you 00:28:06.919 --> 00:28:08.600 need to be aware of just because you 00:28:08.600 --> 00:28:11.360 have an extra safety margin doesn't mean 00:28:11.360 --> 00:28:15.600 it will absolutely not break this is 00:28:15.600 --> 00:28:20.480 no so a very interesting design indeed 00:28:20.480 --> 00:28:22.640 and while I'm still waiting for 00:28:22.640 --> 00:28:25.159 completely indestructible middle 00:28:25.159 --> 00:28:27.799 layer there was something that had 00:28:27.799 --> 00:28:30.480 actually even bigger impact on the cut 00:28:30.480 --> 00:28:33.039 resistance so instead of having the Rope 00:28:33.039 --> 00:28:35.399 safely attached to the beam I came up 00:28:35.399 --> 00:28:38.320 with a brilliant idea to attach it to 00:28:38.320 --> 00:28:40.559 myself no I'm I'm curious if it will 00:28:40.559 --> 00:28:43.159 break when I will be L yeah no I think 00:28:43.159 --> 00:28:46.880 um it won't yeah because Dynamics also 00:28:46.880 --> 00:28:49.480 play a big role so but let's say I I 00:28:49.480 --> 00:28:52.640 panic as a bler and I take really hard 00:28:52.640 --> 00:28:55.679 will it break that we will find 00:28:55.679 --> 00:28:59.080 out so let's say 00:28:59.080 --> 00:29:01.960 what I'm afraid is that I will jump and 00:29:01.960 --> 00:29:03.960 I will end up there and then it will 00:29:03.960 --> 00:29:06.720 break and I will fall yeah that would 00:29:06.720 --> 00:29:10.200 suck CIA was nice to meet you H any any 00:29:10.200 --> 00:29:11.880 last 00:29:11.880 --> 00:29:14.000 words 00:29:14.000 --> 00:29:18.519 um for science okay 00:29:18.519 --> 00:29:23.919 ano I see some anxiety sweat PS go okay 00:29:23.919 --> 00:29:29.159 3 2 1 00:29:30.440 --> 00:29:33.080 so my plan was to take during the fall 00:29:33.080 --> 00:29:35.679 and at the same time go down to cause as 00:29:35.679 --> 00:29:38.600 hard catch as possible however since I 00:29:38.600 --> 00:29:41.279 was belaying with a tube raising my hand 00:29:41.279 --> 00:29:44.159 up was causing the Rope to slide through 00:29:44.159 --> 00:29:47.600 the blay device way too much but the 00:29:47.600 --> 00:29:50.360 Rope was still damaged now for the 00:29:50.360 --> 00:29:53.480 second attempt I decided to not take and 00:29:53.480 --> 00:29:57.399 just go down 00:30:01.000 --> 00:30:03.519 okay so for the climber it was a force 00:30:03.519 --> 00:30:04.559 of 00:30:04.559 --> 00:30:08.519 2.98 so almost 3 kons in our previous 00:30:08.519 --> 00:30:10.120 experiments where we had the Rope 00:30:10.120 --> 00:30:12.679 attached to the beam ropes were breaking 00:30:12.679 --> 00:30:15.760 at slightly higher forces so to match 00:30:15.760 --> 00:30:17.960 that since now we have a little bit of 00:30:17.960 --> 00:30:20.480 extra rope we decided to slightly 00:30:20.480 --> 00:30:24.279 increase the fall 00:30:28.279 --> 00:30:31.600 yeah you were too fast then so yeah I've 00:30:31.600 --> 00:30:34.000 heard that dying is against YouTube 00:30:34.000 --> 00:30:37.480 monetization policy especially in front 00:30:37.480 --> 00:30:41.360 of so many cameras so I'm glad I didn't 00:30:41.360 --> 00:30:44.760 but since my timing was meh let's try 00:30:44.760 --> 00:30:48.559 again 2 00:30:49.000 --> 00:30:51.680 1 00:30:51.680 --> 00:30:55.480 [Applause] 00:30:55.480 --> 00:30:58.960 yes I guess my climber did not VI that 00:30:58.960 --> 00:31:01.480 was beautiful B where is my 00:31:01.480 --> 00:31:04.120 climber it actually broke not on the 00:31:04.120 --> 00:31:06.720 first impact I felt like I caught it and 00:31:06.720 --> 00:31:09.880 then it was sliding and then it broke 00:31:09.880 --> 00:31:12.279 and then I had like T and 00:31:12.279 --> 00:31:17.080 P nice okay now we tried the same but I 00:31:17.080 --> 00:31:20.880 will uh delay softly ready 00:31:20.880 --> 00:31:25.559 y three 2 1 now for the soft catch since 00:31:25.559 --> 00:31:27.960 I was belaying with the tube my idea was 00:31:27.960 --> 00:31:31.480 to Simply let the Rope slide through it 00:31:31.480 --> 00:31:35.080 however my timing was Mech again I 00:31:35.080 --> 00:31:39.120 couldn't see the climber okay don't 00:31:41.559 --> 00:31:43.399 judge huh 00:31:43.399 --> 00:31:47.039 nothing that's so cool so first let me 00:31:47.039 --> 00:31:52.279 give you the force 2.3 so 2.3 it's 00:31:52.279 --> 00:31:55.440 really nothing huh it's so chronics 00:31:55.440 --> 00:31:58.480 nothing nothing nothing nothing what not 00:31:58.480 --> 00:32:00.240 even abrasion 00:32:00.240 --> 00:32:04.039 what absolutely 00:32:04.039 --> 00:32:07.480 nothing we the wrong 00:32:07.480 --> 00:32:11.240 side yeah yeah it burned that is crazy 00:32:11.240 --> 00:32:14.360 it just burned a little bit on top but I 00:32:14.360 --> 00:32:16.240 would still climb with this rope yeah 00:32:16.240 --> 00:32:18.960 totally I was almost sure that it will 00:32:18.960 --> 00:32:23.720 not break but I was not expecting to the 00:32:23.720 --> 00:32:26.760 difference to be that drastic yeah all 00:32:26.760 --> 00:32:29.399 right so far we explore the dangers of 00:32:29.399 --> 00:32:32.799 sharp rocks but another massive danger 00:32:32.799 --> 00:32:35.919 comes from sharp climbing equipment this 00:32:35.919 --> 00:32:38.320 is for example in the climbing gym in 00:32:38.320 --> 00:32:40.760 the first caribiner oh the very very 00:32:40.760 --> 00:32:43.039 first quick draw in the gym was sharp 00:32:43.039 --> 00:32:45.840 and it cut somebody's rope mhm the Rope 00:32:45.840 --> 00:32:48.240 went like like this in the Carabiner and 00:32:48.240 --> 00:32:50.639 then up as you can imagine the climbing 00:32:50.639 --> 00:32:53.399 gym and so it sharpened it in a really 00:32:53.399 --> 00:32:56.880 bad way and for many many years maybe uh 00:32:56.880 --> 00:32:58.480 no one Dropped In in the first Quick 00:32:58.480 --> 00:33:01.320 Draw also no one inspected it in the gym 00:33:01.320 --> 00:33:02.639 the person fell into the first Quick 00:33:02.639 --> 00:33:04.760 Draw and then the the Rope ripped so 00:33:04.760 --> 00:33:06.519 what is this test well we're cutting 00:33:06.519 --> 00:33:08.760 ropes once again this time we're 00:33:08.760 --> 00:33:10.600 dropping the ropes over a sharp 00:33:10.600 --> 00:33:13.279 Carabiner it has a very sharp edge 00:33:13.279 --> 00:33:15.320 actually yeah you would 00:33:15.320 --> 00:33:17.639 notice if something like this would be 00:33:17.639 --> 00:33:22.840 out there three two one 00:33:26.480 --> 00:33:30.320 go you have to see this yeah it looks 00:33:30.320 --> 00:33:33.639 again very violent my God that one that 00:33:33.639 --> 00:33:38.039 was not something I was expecting 3 2 1 00:33:38.039 --> 00:33:41.039 go 00:34:01.360 --> 00:34:04.600 I think Bing it is oh it's so scary how 00:34:04.600 --> 00:34:07.720 it goes like for like 2 3 seconds goes 00:34:07.720 --> 00:34:11.520 zoom and then just boms it explodes now 00:34:11.520 --> 00:34:13.960 assuming the Rope would not fail this 00:34:13.960 --> 00:34:16.919 test was set to produce around 3 and A2 00:34:16.919 --> 00:34:20.440 ktons to the climber so again imitating 00:34:20.440 --> 00:34:23.079 real life 00:34:25.280 --> 00:34:27.679 scenarios oh my God that happened 00:34:27.679 --> 00:34:30.520 happens so fast it's not getting any 00:34:30.520 --> 00:34:32.720 better right still 00:34:32.720 --> 00:34:35.359 terrifying is it for you yeah it's 00:34:35.359 --> 00:34:38.440 shocking honestly like it it's such a 00:34:38.440 --> 00:34:40.159 violent 00:34:40.159 --> 00:34:43.520 explosion horrible gives me nightmares 00:34:43.520 --> 00:34:47.280 and 9.8 we 00:34:48.919 --> 00:34:54.280 go wow the Rope uh it survived but it's 00:34:54.280 --> 00:34:56.079 uh yeah it's pretty 00:34:56.079 --> 00:34:59.079 damaged I want to show you something 00:34:59.079 --> 00:35:01.000 because of this 00:35:01.000 --> 00:35:03.560 impact you create so much 00:35:03.560 --> 00:35:07.040 friction that actually this is like a 00:35:07.040 --> 00:35:09.839 part that melted it's like a little cap 00:35:09.839 --> 00:35:14.760 so this thing melted on the Carabiner 00:35:14.760 --> 00:35:16.320 and then the rest of the Rope was just 00:35:16.320 --> 00:35:18.880 going over it so it kind of created a 00:35:18.880 --> 00:35:22.440 protective uh piece of material that the 00:35:22.440 --> 00:35:24.880 rest of the Rope was sliding over this 00:35:24.880 --> 00:35:28.079 rope we know that it can break but but 00:35:28.079 --> 00:35:29.680 sometimes it can also hold so it's like 00:35:29.680 --> 00:35:32.359 a little bit of a 00:35:34.880 --> 00:35:38.050 [Music] 00:35:40.960 --> 00:35:47.450 gamble all right next 10.2 mm monster 00:35:47.450 --> 00:35:51.510 [Music] 00:35:54.079 --> 00:35:58.079 rope so yeah sometimes more is better 00:35:58.079 --> 00:36:00.160 but in case you want 00:36:00.160 --> 00:36:04.760 less here is a new construction 00:36:14.359 --> 00:36:17.079 rope first it cut through the outer shf 00:36:17.079 --> 00:36:20.079 it failed here but the sharp edge was 00:36:20.079 --> 00:36:23.480 traveling along the longitudinal side of 00:36:23.480 --> 00:36:29.040 the rope and kept on damaging but there 00:36:29.040 --> 00:36:31.359 um the middle Chef was protecting the co 00:36:31.359 --> 00:36:35.000 strand so this was good the craziest 00:36:35.000 --> 00:36:37.599 thing that this is this is fabric this 00:36:37.599 --> 00:36:41.319 is textile mhm and we are falling on it 00:36:41.319 --> 00:36:44.520 and it's holding and comes back like 00:36:44.520 --> 00:36:46.319 this coming back is always the most 00:36:46.319 --> 00:36:48.280 fascinating thing for me if you load it 00:36:48.280 --> 00:36:50.040 and you put it on the table and you see 00:36:50.040 --> 00:36:53.480 it shrinking back slowly it lives H you 00:36:53.480 --> 00:36:55.160 should name your rope you can write a 00:36:55.160 --> 00:36:58.640 comment what name you give to your rope 00:36:58.640 --> 00:37:00.720 we're curious the name with the most up 00:37:00.720 --> 00:37:04.839 votes will get a free rope from 00:37:05.880 --> 00:37:10.160 mammut is that the case that' be cool 00:37:10.160 --> 00:37:12.359 let just's make that happen okay yeah 00:37:12.359 --> 00:37:13.839 that's that's 00:37:13.839 --> 00:37:17.160 that so for whom is this 00:37:17.160 --> 00:37:20.839 rope for a sailor for sailor a nice 00:37:20.839 --> 00:37:21.760 wooden 00:37:21.760 --> 00:37:25.240 boat yeah it matches 00:37:25.240 --> 00:37:27.760 then ah we are talking not about this 00:37:27.760 --> 00:37:30.680 we're talking about this rope so should 00:37:30.680 --> 00:37:33.040 I buy this rope for going to the cracks 00:37:33.040 --> 00:37:36.440 or it has a different intent for whom 00:37:36.440 --> 00:37:39.200 this rope is actually mountaineering 00:37:39.200 --> 00:37:41.520 Ridge climbing multi-pitch climbing 00:37:41.520 --> 00:37:43.680 where yeah there are a lot of sharp 00:37:43.680 --> 00:37:45.760 edges also maybe ice climbing is where 00:37:45.760 --> 00:37:49.440 you maneuver with a lot of Sharp Tools 00:37:49.440 --> 00:37:52.079 already single pitch climbing yeah sport 00:37:52.079 --> 00:37:54.200 climbing Trad climbing do you really 00:37:54.200 --> 00:37:56.319 need it I would say hey it depends on 00:37:56.319 --> 00:38:00.359 the route why wouldn't I want this in a 00:38:00.359 --> 00:38:04.680 crack will it last less long is it less 00:38:04.680 --> 00:38:07.359 durable since the sheath is you said a 00:38:07.359 --> 00:38:10.680 little bit thinner yeah so you have a 00:38:10.680 --> 00:38:13.240 little bit less uh sheath since we had 00:38:13.240 --> 00:38:16.480 to make room for the aramid uh shf did 00:38:16.480 --> 00:38:18.359 you run this through your abrasion 00:38:18.359 --> 00:38:21.160 testing machine yes we saw a decrease 00:38:21.160 --> 00:38:22.560 but you know in German we have the 00:38:22.560 --> 00:38:26.720 saying that you want theing Theo so you 00:38:26.720 --> 00:38:28.359 want 00:38:28.359 --> 00:38:32.640 and a a pig that has wool and is also 00:38:32.640 --> 00:38:36.560 laying eggs so you want you want an a 00:38:36.560 --> 00:38:40.720 all overall package that does not exist 00:38:40.720 --> 00:38:42.400 so this is kind of the thing with robes 00:38:42.400 --> 00:38:44.640 you can't have it all at once so that 00:38:44.640 --> 00:38:47.200 was a journey which makes me really 00:38:47.200 --> 00:38:50.400 curious to see what's coming next and 00:38:50.400 --> 00:38:52.359 what rope names you going to put down in 00:38:52.359 --> 00:38:55.560 the comments and also making this video 00:38:55.560 --> 00:38:58.720 took me over 3 months many locations and 00:38:58.720 --> 00:39:01.040 many smart humans helping 00:39:01.040 --> 00:39:04.480 me so probably not the best strategy for 00:39:04.480 --> 00:39:07.520 a successful YouTube business and it 00:39:07.520 --> 00:39:09.960 would definitely not be possible without 00:39:09.960 --> 00:39:13.000 kind people supporting me on my patreon 00:39:13.000 --> 00:39:14.800 and in other 00:39:14.800 --> 00:39:19.119 means so I send a lot of low gravity 00:39:19.119 --> 00:39:22.400 days to these kind of people these kind 00:39:22.400 --> 00:39:25.760 of kind people and thank you for 00:39:25.760 --> 00:39:27.560 watching and see you in the next next 00:39:27.560 --> 00:39:29.920 one