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three two one

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go this is the video about the last

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unsolved problem of climbing

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ropes it's a deep dive into the science

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behind robe development in and out in

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and out and

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testing including the microscopic world

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of rope failures some new exciting

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Technologies you do not

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load the cut resistant fiber and me H

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any any last

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words

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uh volunteering to do some human

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testing nowadays ropes are almost

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unbreakable so that's good for your fear

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of falling but what we are about to

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talk might not be so great yeah this is

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a standard test of climbing

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ropes a steel mass is dropped from

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almost 5 m causing the forces more than

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double of what you can achieve in real

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life cuz it's unbreakable if you try to

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literally break it if you pull on it

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there is almost no chance that it will

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snap no but first your back will

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snap but when we talk about cutting I

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was surprised that till this day there

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there is no standard for how cut

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resistant rope needs to be and it's not

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that hard to cut the rope under tension

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which means that there is no

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standardized test which would measure

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how good the Rope is against situations

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like

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this I mean it's not like no one worked

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on it uh it's it's a really difficult

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topic and a lot of institutes

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manufacturers notified bodies and

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Laboratories worked on that

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now before we start breaking ropes a

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quick detour to the 19th century the

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early days of climbing with the best

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advice you would get back then is that

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the leader must not fall we used hemp

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propes made for agricultural purposes

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that had almost no stretch so if you

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fall you either going to break your rope

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or your ribs shall we go climbing

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I brought some ropes brand new smells

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organic want to take a whip on it are we

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doing some uh test falls on

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this not sure you want to now as you can

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imagine these agricultural ropes didn't

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had much quality control and that's why

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in

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1862 this serious looking Swiss man

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decided to bring Swiss quality to

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climbing ropes and here mammut was born

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a year later followed by a German

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company Eder and multiple Decades of

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craziest

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climbing

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yeah now in 1935 everything started to

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change when the chemical company dupond

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invented nylon world's first synthetic

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fiber yes boys this is it this is a

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synthetic fiber you mean we make cloth

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out of that yes we do actually to make

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nylon you only need two components acid

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and this thing that I cannot pronounce

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so then I'm going to reach in here and

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where the interface is I'm going to pull

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out some nylon so here we go now we'll

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see how much nylon we can pull out of

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this

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thing there's a meter or

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so two so on a large scale this is done

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not with a whole bunch of people doing

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this of course

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but by the way take a guess who was the

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first user of such great

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material certainly is a long time since

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we've seen legs looking like that

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perhaps I should say stocking was

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looking like that that's right women

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they love nylon stalking so much that

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they gathered in crowds real Nyon and

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fully fashioned very nice to see again

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from any

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angle and then World War II broke out

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due to the conflict with Japan United

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States lost access to Silk suppliers so

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military needed to transition all silk

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products like parachutes to nylon which

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greatly accelerated development of nylon

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but women felt the shortages but no

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worries you can always paint legs to

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look like they have stockings turned out

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to be a great

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business after the war nylon found its

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way to Europe and mammut launched a rope

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which can actually stretch but a year

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later Eder invented the C mantle

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technology which was an even bigger

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Revolution it's a little bit funny

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because a reed invented the kmle r the

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owner of Mamud was not really convinced

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by the New Concept he wanted to stick to

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the Twisted one and just a couple years

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later um M would also launch the first

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ctal Rob so very quickly realized that

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oh that's actually a good idea yes curl

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mantle ropes are made out of two

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components the core strands that are

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twisted and the shift which is braided

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around to protect the

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core okay keep going keep going very

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expensive rope with my uh with my hourly

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pay okay so you have two different types

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of spools here the red one run into this

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direction by Red we mean this yeah the

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red one go counter clockwise and the

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yellow ones clockwise and they always go

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in and out in and out in order to create

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the

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braid it's actually quite cool to see

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this if you look at the core strands

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from Modern climbing ropes they also

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have this kind of twist this is like

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exactly the same as this in theory yes

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why is there many core strands and not

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one big core strand Twisted together

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that's a good question we have cores

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that go in s direction that are twisted

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in One Direction and other cores that

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are twisted in the other direction this

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is something that is a reoccurring theme

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in the twines that are used in a rope

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that you always differ the direction to

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kind of work against the

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natural uh motion of twisting now back

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in the days when the military was

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testing parachute deployment we noticed

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that forces higher than 15g can result

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in injuries to The Spine and Neck and

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since climbers also don't like breaking

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their backs they decided to borrow that

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limit when the uiaa standard was

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developed the developers back in the day

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said it's impossible to reach the limit

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of the 12 kons that is interesting that

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at first we came up with the standard

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that nobody could achieve and then only

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later we managed to achieve it okay in

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1964 we we got the first rope that is

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certified to not break our backs and now

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80 years later and we're still using the

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same curl mantle technology which is

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kind of impressive but what's not

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impressive that till this day our ropes

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still have the last unsolved problem

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that they are not that hard to cut

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especially when they are under tension

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give me some sharpish objects sharp edge

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object sharpish sharpish

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oh

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good but that's so

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tiny this is dangerous this bringing a

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knife and a file so we have a

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file which is uh it's a metal file we

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have a knife and this

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thing in k no I will start with a dull

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one and if it turns out to be too much

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work I will go to sharper one so at

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first we pull the Rope to 80 kg this

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imitates a climber simply hanging on the

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Rope oh wow it's not that hard to

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cut

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and yeah this file is not that sharp

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kind of

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[Music]

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[Music]

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scary no show

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not as spectacular as you'd hit what I

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want to actually now

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try Okay significantly

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harder yeah if it's like completely

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relaxed

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huh train you got really red

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dude I just wanted to see how much

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harder it is to cut not underload so

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let's try what happens at

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3.5 kons it's a hard fall load let's go

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do I need the safety something you think

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I'm going to die at three no no five

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have you tried this before

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no are you brave enough is the question

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now my camera man is going

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away you

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ready yeah I'm

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not it said something it wants to

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talk let adjusting to the

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weight it's War wow I'm barely barely

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doing anything oh now be careful with

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your fingers

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[Music]

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I think it

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will wow I barely touched it so as you

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can see tension in ropes plays a big

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role in Cut resistance and now some of

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you might be thinking why can't we

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simply add some kind of material in the

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Rope which would make them much harder

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to cut well we do have ropes that are

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made out of the Nema and aramite okay so

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this is a glacier cord and where is it

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used it's for securing yourself against

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faults in a crass if you would fall in

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there you have covered with snow so the

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snow kind of dampens the Fall mhm so

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this is why you don't need the Dynamics

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in this type of rope this is a shoelace

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yeah 6 mm is this dyo or yeah on the

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inside it's a dyema on the outside it's

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a polyester AR and this Glacier people

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came up with a thought that it's okay to

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fall on this well cuz you don't fall

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well then don't use it so we put this

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cord in a drop tower with relatively

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small amount of slack and we wanted to

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see what happens when you apply a

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dynamic load on the super strong yet

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stiff

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material oh my God it's always so loud

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in here what was the force 7.9 so what

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force do you expect out of dynamic rope

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on the same fall m I would say around

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3.6 3.7 3.5 so 3.6 and 3.5 want to play

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some bets what's your guess 3 kilon

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Neons okay he's paying for

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dinner no the closest one p for the

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[Laughter]

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dinner

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[Music]

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what okay so I'm playing for the dinner

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so as you can see material which is

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rated for 14 kiltons for a static

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scenario broke at around 8 in a dynamic

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drop which is a peculiar observation on

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itself but that also shows that

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incorporating these super strong

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materials into Dynamic climbing ropes is

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not that trivial now the second problem

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comes from saying that if you can't

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measure it you can't improve it and

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turns out that measuring cut resistancy

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in climbing ropes is a very tricky top

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IPC in 2002 UAA proposed a test similar

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to a standard drop test but here the

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Rope was falling over a sharp edge but

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the problem was the values that we got

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or the values that they got back then

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were just inconsistent within the test

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but also between different institutes

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and Laboratories so 2 years later the

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test was withdrawn and since then a lot

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of different tests were tried out by

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different organizations and mammut also

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also had their own idea it's a pendulum

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swing with a sharp knife is dropped onto

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a pre-loaded rope so instead of the Rope

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falling with the weight you had rope

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static and the knife was falling exactly

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the knife was falling and you measured

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how high the knife came after the

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cutting and then you could calculate how

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much energy was necessary to cut it so

278
00:13:50,839 --> 00:13:53,120
we worked three years on that but at

279
00:13:53,120 --> 00:13:54,920
some point we also had to say yeah it's

280
00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:58,120
giving inconsistent values opened more

281
00:13:58,120 --> 00:14:00,600
questions than now the common problem

282
00:14:00,600 --> 00:14:02,839
with many of those tests were that

283
00:14:02,839 --> 00:14:05,199
either the forces were unrealistically

284
00:14:05,199 --> 00:14:08,079
high or the Dynamics in those test

285
00:14:08,079 --> 00:14:11,079
introduced too much variability meaning

286
00:14:11,079 --> 00:14:13,160
when the Rope is falling on some kind of

287
00:14:13,160 --> 00:14:16,240
sharp edge it will never fall in exactly

288
00:14:16,240 --> 00:14:20,360
the same way so in 2018 edet proposed a

289
00:14:20,360 --> 00:14:22,880
slightly different approach where they

290
00:14:22,880 --> 00:14:25,600
eliminated all the Dynamics here the

291
00:14:25,600 --> 00:14:28,320
rope is tensioned to desired load and

292
00:14:28,320 --> 00:14:31,320
then the discs spins and cuts the Rope

293
00:14:31,320 --> 00:14:33,920
and the Machine is measuring how far the

294
00:14:33,920 --> 00:14:37,279
disc had to travel to cut the rope in

295
00:14:37,279 --> 00:14:40,279
2015 there was an accident where two

296
00:14:40,279 --> 00:14:44,440
people were lowered on a single 8.7 mm

297
00:14:44,440 --> 00:14:47,920
rope the Rope moved a bit over a sharp

298
00:14:47,920 --> 00:14:51,440
edge and it was cut and since this test

299
00:14:51,440 --> 00:14:53,680
reproduces the accident scenario really

300
00:14:53,680 --> 00:14:56,480
well edet managed to answer a very

301
00:14:56,480 --> 00:14:59,079
important question what had a bigger imp

302
00:14:59,079 --> 00:15:01,440
impact in the accident the fact that

303
00:15:01,440 --> 00:15:06,040
they used super thin 8.7 mm rope or that

304
00:15:06,040 --> 00:15:08,759
they were lowered two people at the same

305
00:15:08,759 --> 00:15:11,639
time first we loaded two different ropes

306
00:15:11,639 --> 00:15:15,920
to 160 kg imitating two climbers hanging

307
00:15:15,920 --> 00:15:18,199
and even though ropes had different

308
00:15:18,199 --> 00:15:21,519
diameters the cut resistance was very

309
00:15:21,519 --> 00:15:24,240
similar but then they took the same rope

310
00:15:24,240 --> 00:15:27,399
but loaded it with different load and

311
00:15:27,399 --> 00:15:31,040
this time the difference was much bigger

312
00:15:31,040 --> 00:15:33,560
this shows that the load on the Rope has

313
00:15:33,560 --> 00:15:36,600
a much bigger impact than the diameter

314
00:15:36,600 --> 00:15:39,519
of the Rope so a great takeaway would be

315
00:15:39,519 --> 00:15:41,720
to avoid practices where two people are

316
00:15:41,720 --> 00:15:44,519
hanging on one strand of the Rope but at

317
00:15:44,519 --> 00:15:48,319
the same time 160 kilos that we used is

318
00:15:48,319 --> 00:15:50,600
not that much when we start talking

319
00:15:50,600 --> 00:15:53,279
about Dynamic scenarios their forces can

320
00:15:53,279 --> 00:15:55,079
reach up to 4

321
00:15:55,079 --> 00:15:58,000
kons and also the cutting patterns

322
00:15:58,000 --> 00:16:00,600
become way more more complicated

323
00:16:00,600 --> 00:16:02,680
recently there was a very interesting

324
00:16:02,680 --> 00:16:04,920
paper published which took ropes that

325
00:16:04,920 --> 00:16:06,959
were cut and looked through the

326
00:16:06,959 --> 00:16:09,639
microscope and what they found was four

327
00:16:09,639 --> 00:16:12,480
dominating patterns the first one was a

328
00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:15,519
clean cut the second one was a tiered

329
00:16:15,519 --> 00:16:17,759
cut as if you would be cutting with a

330
00:16:17,759 --> 00:16:20,040
dual knife then they found some

331
00:16:20,040 --> 00:16:23,000
mushrooms these happened from high-speed

332
00:16:23,000 --> 00:16:27,519
fiber overload and lastly molten fibers

333
00:16:27,519 --> 00:16:29,440
and then we looked what p patterns they

334
00:16:29,440 --> 00:16:32,480
will find in ropes cut by different

335
00:16:32,480 --> 00:16:35,759
tests starting with ederly disc which

336
00:16:35,759 --> 00:16:39,160
produced a lot of Clean Cuts but also a

337
00:16:39,160 --> 00:16:41,720
lot of tiered Cuts this probably

338
00:16:41,720 --> 00:16:43,920
happened because the disc actually has

339
00:16:43,920 --> 00:16:47,319
these small teeth next they looked into

340
00:16:47,319 --> 00:16:50,120
the old mammut test and this one was

341
00:16:50,120 --> 00:16:52,920
pretty much dominated by mushrooms and

342
00:16:52,920 --> 00:16:55,120
the possible explanation is because the

343
00:16:55,120 --> 00:16:58,040
Rope was tensioned to unrealistically

344
00:16:58,040 --> 00:16:59,560
high Force

345
00:16:59,560 --> 00:17:01,240
and of course I had a question why

346
00:17:01,240 --> 00:17:03,759
didn't we use more realistic loads on

347
00:17:03,759 --> 00:17:06,720
this test when we lowered the preloading

348
00:17:06,720 --> 00:17:10,720
to 3 4 Kon then uh some of these ropes

349
00:17:10,720 --> 00:17:12,959
have not been able to be cut we were not

350
00:17:12,959 --> 00:17:14,439
able to compare the results you wanted

351
00:17:14,439 --> 00:17:16,559
that all the ropes will be cut but then

352
00:17:16,559 --> 00:17:18,400
you can measure how much it takes that

353
00:17:18,400 --> 00:17:20,760
was the difficulty of the test yeah okay

354
00:17:20,760 --> 00:17:24,000
next we looked into the old uiaa test

355
00:17:24,000 --> 00:17:26,839
and here we found a lot of mushrooms but

356
00:17:26,839 --> 00:17:29,559
also a lot of molten fiber

357
00:17:29,559 --> 00:17:32,200
and finally they simulated a realistic

358
00:17:32,200 --> 00:17:34,919
Dynamic scenario where the Rope was

359
00:17:34,919 --> 00:17:38,520
running across a sharp granite edge and

360
00:17:38,520 --> 00:17:40,400
also they compar the patterns in

361
00:17:40,400 --> 00:17:42,320
different parts of the Rope like The

362
00:17:42,320 --> 00:17:45,559
Shift versus the core and after all the

363
00:17:45,559 --> 00:17:48,880
analysis the study concluded that no

364
00:17:48,880 --> 00:17:51,440
test method can fully replicate the

365
00:17:51,440 --> 00:17:54,559
complex breaking mechanism observed

366
00:17:54,559 --> 00:17:56,640
during an accident

367
00:17:56,640 --> 00:17:59,799
simulation so yeah a deep rap hole but

368
00:17:59,799 --> 00:18:03,640
this brings us to the best part of this

369
00:18:03,640 --> 00:18:06,559
video ah fancy this thing can go up and

370
00:18:06,559 --> 00:18:09,559
down yeah you don't like walking ladders

371
00:18:09,559 --> 00:18:11,320
so you made the machine which goes up

372
00:18:11,320 --> 00:18:15,559
and down Dano was climbing this Ladder

373
00:18:15,559 --> 00:18:18,760
Up and Down millions of times it kind of

374
00:18:18,760 --> 00:18:21,120
feels that it grabs the edge but it's

375
00:18:21,120 --> 00:18:24,960
not like super cut yeah I mean I

376
00:18:24,960 --> 00:18:27,799
wouldn't even think outside that this is

377
00:18:27,799 --> 00:18:30,640
an issue there sever edges out in the

378
00:18:30,640 --> 00:18:33,039
mountains that are much sharper than

379
00:18:33,039 --> 00:18:36,600
this yeah so if we do the tests then you

380
00:18:36,600 --> 00:18:38,919
will be afraid of climbing after

381
00:18:38,919 --> 00:18:42,960
it here you have this 45° surface so

382
00:18:42,960 --> 00:18:47,440
it's like 90° and then 45° cut yes cut

383
00:18:47,440 --> 00:18:50,159
yeah yeah so it's not actually like a

384
00:18:50,159 --> 00:18:53,200
pointy Edge it's relatively rounded Edge

385
00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:56,520
but the granite has this roughness to it

386
00:18:56,520 --> 00:18:59,480
yes I would say so let me get the reason

387
00:18:59,480 --> 00:19:01,720
we cannot make this standardized is

388
00:19:01,720 --> 00:19:03,360
because it's impossible to make this

389
00:19:03,360 --> 00:19:07,360
granite edge standard like yeah so this

390
00:19:07,360 --> 00:19:09,679
test setup is not something that aims to

391
00:19:09,679 --> 00:19:11,760
be a standardized test method that needs

392
00:19:11,760 --> 00:19:14,080
to be reproducible in different places

393
00:19:14,080 --> 00:19:17,600
so you need that exact same granite edge

394
00:19:17,600 --> 00:19:19,760
at in 10 different places this was not

395
00:19:19,760 --> 00:19:21,159
the goal it was for us in the

396
00:19:21,159 --> 00:19:24,159
development to learn how different

397
00:19:24,159 --> 00:19:25,919
constructions are behaving thicker

398
00:19:25,919 --> 00:19:28,159
diameters thinner diameters different

399
00:19:28,159 --> 00:19:30,159
shth con instructions just to get an

400
00:19:30,159 --> 00:19:38,080
insight for that okay ready 3 2 one and

401
00:19:41,880 --> 00:19:45,679
go 1

402
00:19:46,159 --> 00:19:48,840
go well I wouldn't want to be a climber

403
00:19:48,840 --> 00:19:53,400
in this case Qui cut quiet cut that's a

404
00:19:53,400 --> 00:19:59,640
quiet cut um 3 2 1 go

405
00:20:10,240 --> 00:20:13,000
W and this one's friend holding

406
00:20:13,000 --> 00:20:15,679
on yeah but it's just being pulled out

407
00:20:15,679 --> 00:20:17,960
it's not holding anymore huh so you can

408
00:20:17,960 --> 00:20:20,240
see where the cor strs were

409
00:20:20,240 --> 00:20:23,320
cut we have one left it was completely

410
00:20:23,320 --> 00:20:27,400
pulled out this is the original end and

411
00:20:27,400 --> 00:20:30,679
you can see the whole that remains and

412
00:20:30,679 --> 00:20:33,679
how hard is the fall what's the force to

413
00:20:33,679 --> 00:20:36,120
the climber I would say it's a realistic

414
00:20:36,120 --> 00:20:40,360
fall with realistic forces 3 kiltons or

415
00:20:40,360 --> 00:20:41,600
300

416
00:20:41,600 --> 00:20:45,120
kog all right our first rope was failing

417
00:20:45,120 --> 00:20:47,880
very easily so we change to a thicker

418
00:20:47,880 --> 00:20:55,400
one all right 3 2 1 go

419
00:20:58,650 --> 00:21:03,400
[Music]

420
00:21:03,760 --> 00:21:06,720
it's crazy cuz it looks like a tiny fall

421
00:21:06,720 --> 00:21:09,799
and a tiny swing and it went yesterday

422
00:21:09,799 --> 00:21:11,760
we basically spent the day breaking

423
00:21:11,760 --> 00:21:15,520
ropes and yeah I I wouldn't have go

424
00:21:15,520 --> 00:21:17,720
straight to the to the to the to the

425
00:21:17,720 --> 00:21:20,480
Rock to climb because no wasn't the goal

426
00:21:20,480 --> 00:21:22,520
to be the

427
00:21:22,520 --> 00:21:25,039
opposite well it as a climber it kind of

428
00:21:25,039 --> 00:21:27,159
scares you to see this a little yeah

429
00:21:27,159 --> 00:21:29,600
that's that's true all right moving to

430
00:21:29,600 --> 00:21:36,720
even thicker 9.9 mm rope 1

431
00:21:38,440 --> 00:21:41,200
go wow that's quick you can see the

432
00:21:41,200 --> 00:21:43,480
different types of cutting mechanisms

433
00:21:43,480 --> 00:21:45,840
here first the chef has been cut and

434
00:21:45,840 --> 00:21:48,320
then it kind of looks like the Rope is

435
00:21:48,320 --> 00:21:51,000
remaining on one position but the load

436
00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:52,640
is pulling more and more yeah you see

437
00:21:52,640 --> 00:21:54,520
the cover the the course breaking one

438
00:21:54,520 --> 00:21:58,600
after each other yeah so it's 3 seconds

439
00:21:58,600 --> 00:22:01,080
for the whole rope to break it's quick

440
00:22:01,080 --> 00:22:03,640
that's very quick mhm oh exciting so um

441
00:22:03,640 --> 00:22:05,120
shall we

442
00:22:05,120 --> 00:22:09,320
do okay let's do the thickest rope on

443
00:22:09,320 --> 00:22:14,480
our list 3 2 one

444
00:22:15,960 --> 00:22:20,240
go so I don't know who still buys such

445
00:22:20,240 --> 00:22:21,400
monster

446
00:22:21,400 --> 00:22:22,440
[Music]

447
00:22:22,440 --> 00:22:27,279
ropes but I guess here you go that's for

448
00:22:27,279 --> 00:22:30,520
your fear of fall fall ing the slow

449
00:22:30,520 --> 00:22:33,039
motion

450
00:22:33,039 --> 00:22:35,840
torture so yeah

451
00:22:35,840 --> 00:22:38,840
subscribe and I promise that the Rope is

452
00:22:38,840 --> 00:22:41,559
not going to

453
00:22:43,240 --> 00:22:48,679
break come on the button is down

454
00:22:50,799 --> 00:22:54,279
there we need

455
00:22:56,799 --> 00:23:02,039
you thank you for subscribing you're the

456
00:23:07,159 --> 00:23:10,240
best so as you can see while adding more

457
00:23:10,240 --> 00:23:12,640
material and making the ropes thicker

458
00:23:12,640 --> 00:23:16,400
does help a little bit it's not by much

459
00:23:16,400 --> 00:23:18,000
and obviously mammut wouldn't be

460
00:23:18,000 --> 00:23:19,960
inviting me just to show how all the

461
00:23:19,960 --> 00:23:22,039
ropes are failing they actually been

462
00:23:22,039 --> 00:23:24,679
working on something new ah so this is

463
00:23:24,679 --> 00:23:27,919
the new row yes so it has an extra

464
00:23:27,919 --> 00:23:30,640
something inside oh look at that I would

465
00:23:30,640 --> 00:23:32,960
not even be able to guess that it's made

466
00:23:32,960 --> 00:23:35,600
out of different material it feels also

467
00:23:35,600 --> 00:23:40,559
kind of fabric soft I was thinking you I

468
00:23:40,559 --> 00:23:43,480
will open this and we'll find some metal

469
00:23:43,480 --> 00:23:46,279
inside no it's textile and the key

470
00:23:46,279 --> 00:23:49,159
component is the intermediate Chief here

471
00:23:49,159 --> 00:23:52,080
you have here a intermediate chief that

472
00:23:52,080 --> 00:23:55,480
protects the core so normally ropes have

473
00:23:55,480 --> 00:23:58,440
shift and then they have the core and

474
00:23:58,440 --> 00:24:02,440
and this rope has one more sheath you

475
00:24:02,440 --> 00:24:04,799
can say this intermediate sheath is made

476
00:24:04,799 --> 00:24:08,400
of um high strength aramite fibers that

477
00:24:08,400 --> 00:24:11,240
have an overlength so with this

478
00:24:11,240 --> 00:24:15,120
overlength um they are free from tension

479
00:24:15,120 --> 00:24:17,720
this is actually very interesting while

480
00:24:17,720 --> 00:24:20,039
aramite is a super strong material

481
00:24:20,039 --> 00:24:22,480
commonly used in safety equipment like

482
00:24:22,480 --> 00:24:25,000
cut resistant gloves or bulletproof

483
00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:28,480
vests however as we've seen before arite

484
00:24:28,480 --> 00:24:29,679
is very

485
00:24:29,679 --> 00:24:32,399
stiff so to solve this they needed to

486
00:24:32,399 --> 00:24:35,080
create a design where nylon in the Rope

487
00:24:35,080 --> 00:24:37,520
would stretch and absorb the impact but

488
00:24:37,520 --> 00:24:40,760
aramide would stay without load this is

489
00:24:40,760 --> 00:24:43,600
the so-called we call it the hybrid

490
00:24:43,600 --> 00:24:46,840
Yan what is uh made of two different

491
00:24:46,840 --> 00:24:50,080
fibers so this middle layer is not only

492
00:24:50,080 --> 00:24:54,399
arite it's a hybrid yes okay and you see

493
00:24:54,399 --> 00:24:56,720
that there is one with a longer yarn

494
00:24:56,720 --> 00:25:00,760
inside yeah and one is sh okay so there

495
00:25:00,760 --> 00:25:04,559
is two Thin strings one is completely

496
00:25:04,559 --> 00:25:07,240
stretched now and the other one is

497
00:25:07,240 --> 00:25:09,840
curled around the stretched one yes this

498
00:25:09,840 --> 00:25:11,720
is the one with the over length if you

499
00:25:11,720 --> 00:25:13,120
load it

500
00:25:13,120 --> 00:25:15,399
now you do not

501
00:25:15,399 --> 00:25:19,080
load the cut resistant fiber okay to

502
00:25:19,080 --> 00:25:21,600
illustrate this is an elongation curve

503
00:25:21,600 --> 00:25:24,720
of a pure nylon and this is a hybrid

504
00:25:24,720 --> 00:25:28,360
yarn without an overlength so not good

505
00:25:28,360 --> 00:25:31,520
good but by introducing an overlength in

506
00:25:31,520 --> 00:25:34,159
aramite they managed to achieve a curve

507
00:25:34,159 --> 00:25:37,320
like this so basically during the fall

508
00:25:37,320 --> 00:25:39,760
you probably are not even going to feel

509
00:25:39,760 --> 00:25:43,840
any difference on this rope no nice and

510
00:25:43,840 --> 00:25:46,200
why is it hybrid inside why is it not

511
00:25:46,200 --> 00:25:50,200
all armed it will not um be held in

512
00:25:50,200 --> 00:25:53,399
position so you need anara because it

513
00:25:53,399 --> 00:25:55,760
you have the overlength anywhere and if

514
00:25:55,760 --> 00:25:58,799
you move with the Rope

515
00:25:58,799 --> 00:26:02,200
the maybe it changes the place that's a

516
00:26:02,200 --> 00:26:04,679
very smart design now it makes more

517
00:26:04,679 --> 00:26:08,039
sense how does it come back after load

518
00:26:08,039 --> 00:26:10,120
cuz otherwise you would stretch and then

519
00:26:10,120 --> 00:26:12,320
the middle layer would move somewhere

520
00:26:12,320 --> 00:26:14,559
but since you have some nylon in it it

521
00:26:14,559 --> 00:26:16,880
will reset the middle layer probably as

522
00:26:16,880 --> 00:26:20,200
well yes of course mhm now as a fun fact

523
00:26:20,200 --> 00:26:23,480
this robe has only 4% of its weight in

524
00:26:23,480 --> 00:26:26,799
aramite so let's see what that does

525
00:26:26,799 --> 00:26:28,880
ready to Launch

526
00:26:28,880 --> 00:26:34,600
3 two one go

527
00:26:35,220 --> 00:26:38,720
[Music]

528
00:27:04,310 --> 00:27:05,919
[Music]

529
00:27:05,919 --> 00:27:09,200
who oh but the core it's only hanging on

530
00:27:09,200 --> 00:27:12,799
the core strands yes middle sheath is

531
00:27:12,799 --> 00:27:15,159
offering a protective layer so it's not

532
00:27:15,159 --> 00:27:17,919
like the middle layer is indestructible

533
00:27:17,919 --> 00:27:20,200
no no of course not a but the core

534
00:27:20,200 --> 00:27:23,399
strands barely got any damage yeah just

535
00:27:23,399 --> 00:27:26,120
a tiny bit Yeah so while this middle

536
00:27:26,120 --> 00:27:28,480
layer was adding extra protection for

537
00:27:28,480 --> 00:27:32,600
the Rope it was still eventually cut

538
00:27:32,600 --> 00:27:35,799
right outside of the camera frame

539
00:27:35,799 --> 00:27:41,440
sorry 3 2 one

540
00:27:43,159 --> 00:27:45,799
go it's about does it hold in this

541
00:27:45,799 --> 00:27:48,360
scenario or not mhm so we are kind of

542
00:27:48,360 --> 00:27:51,000
deducting from this test setup that it

543
00:27:51,000 --> 00:27:54,320
does perform significantly better than

544
00:27:54,320 --> 00:27:56,480
normal inline rope with the same

545
00:27:56,480 --> 00:27:59,760
diameter so if you look in keeping the

546
00:27:59,760 --> 00:28:03,159
same weight of the rope and same handle

547
00:28:03,159 --> 00:28:05,360
you will get an extra safety margin on

548
00:28:05,360 --> 00:28:06,919
top but the thing is something that you

549
00:28:06,919 --> 00:28:08,600
need to be aware of just because you

550
00:28:08,600 --> 00:28:11,360
have an extra safety margin doesn't mean

551
00:28:11,360 --> 00:28:15,600
it will absolutely not break this is

552
00:28:15,600 --> 00:28:20,480
no so a very interesting design indeed

553
00:28:20,480 --> 00:28:22,640
and while I'm still waiting for

554
00:28:22,640 --> 00:28:25,159
completely indestructible middle

555
00:28:25,159 --> 00:28:27,799
layer there was something that had

556
00:28:27,799 --> 00:28:30,480
actually even bigger impact on the cut

557
00:28:30,480 --> 00:28:33,039
resistance so instead of having the Rope

558
00:28:33,039 --> 00:28:35,399
safely attached to the beam I came up

559
00:28:35,399 --> 00:28:38,320
with a brilliant idea to attach it to

560
00:28:38,320 --> 00:28:40,559
myself no I'm I'm curious if it will

561
00:28:40,559 --> 00:28:43,159
break when I will be L yeah no I think

562
00:28:43,159 --> 00:28:46,880
um it won't yeah because Dynamics also

563
00:28:46,880 --> 00:28:49,480
play a big role so but let's say I I

564
00:28:49,480 --> 00:28:52,640
panic as a bler and I take really hard

565
00:28:52,640 --> 00:28:55,679
will it break that we will find

566
00:28:55,679 --> 00:28:59,080
out so let's say

567
00:28:59,080 --> 00:29:01,960
what I'm afraid is that I will jump and

568
00:29:01,960 --> 00:29:03,960
I will end up there and then it will

569
00:29:03,960 --> 00:29:06,720
break and I will fall yeah that would

570
00:29:06,720 --> 00:29:10,200
suck CIA was nice to meet you H any any

571
00:29:10,200 --> 00:29:11,880
last

572
00:29:11,880 --> 00:29:14,000
words

573
00:29:14,000 --> 00:29:18,519
um for science okay

574
00:29:18,519 --> 00:29:23,919
ano I see some anxiety sweat PS go okay

575
00:29:23,919 --> 00:29:29,159
3 2 1

576
00:29:30,440 --> 00:29:33,080
so my plan was to take during the fall

577
00:29:33,080 --> 00:29:35,679
and at the same time go down to cause as

578
00:29:35,679 --> 00:29:38,600
hard catch as possible however since I

579
00:29:38,600 --> 00:29:41,279
was belaying with a tube raising my hand

580
00:29:41,279 --> 00:29:44,159
up was causing the Rope to slide through

581
00:29:44,159 --> 00:29:47,600
the blay device way too much but the

582
00:29:47,600 --> 00:29:50,360
Rope was still damaged now for the

583
00:29:50,360 --> 00:29:53,480
second attempt I decided to not take and

584
00:29:53,480 --> 00:29:57,399
just go down

585
00:30:01,000 --> 00:30:03,519
okay so for the climber it was a force

586
00:30:03,519 --> 00:30:04,559
of

587
00:30:04,559 --> 00:30:08,519
2.98 so almost 3 kons in our previous

588
00:30:08,519 --> 00:30:10,120
experiments where we had the Rope

589
00:30:10,120 --> 00:30:12,679
attached to the beam ropes were breaking

590
00:30:12,679 --> 00:30:15,760
at slightly higher forces so to match

591
00:30:15,760 --> 00:30:17,960
that since now we have a little bit of

592
00:30:17,960 --> 00:30:20,480
extra rope we decided to slightly

593
00:30:20,480 --> 00:30:24,279
increase the fall

594
00:30:28,279 --> 00:30:31,600
yeah you were too fast then so yeah I've

595
00:30:31,600 --> 00:30:34,000
heard that dying is against YouTube

596
00:30:34,000 --> 00:30:37,480
monetization policy especially in front

597
00:30:37,480 --> 00:30:41,360
of so many cameras so I'm glad I didn't

598
00:30:41,360 --> 00:30:44,760
but since my timing was meh let's try

599
00:30:44,760 --> 00:30:48,559
again 2

600
00:30:49,000 --> 00:30:51,680
1

601
00:30:51,680 --> 00:30:55,480
[Applause]

602
00:30:55,480 --> 00:30:58,960
yes I guess my climber did not VI that

603
00:30:58,960 --> 00:31:01,480
was beautiful B where is my

604
00:31:01,480 --> 00:31:04,120
climber it actually broke not on the

605
00:31:04,120 --> 00:31:06,720
first impact I felt like I caught it and

606
00:31:06,720 --> 00:31:09,880
then it was sliding and then it broke

607
00:31:09,880 --> 00:31:12,279
and then I had like T and

608
00:31:12,279 --> 00:31:17,080
P nice okay now we tried the same but I

609
00:31:17,080 --> 00:31:20,880
will uh delay softly ready

610
00:31:20,880 --> 00:31:25,559
y three 2 1 now for the soft catch since

611
00:31:25,559 --> 00:31:27,960
I was belaying with the tube my idea was

612
00:31:27,960 --> 00:31:31,480
to Simply let the Rope slide through it

613
00:31:31,480 --> 00:31:35,080
however my timing was Mech again I

614
00:31:35,080 --> 00:31:39,120
couldn't see the climber okay don't

615
00:31:41,559 --> 00:31:43,399
judge huh

616
00:31:43,399 --> 00:31:47,039
nothing that's so cool so first let me

617
00:31:47,039 --> 00:31:52,279
give you the force 2.3 so 2.3 it's

618
00:31:52,279 --> 00:31:55,440
really nothing huh it's so chronics

619
00:31:55,440 --> 00:31:58,480
nothing nothing nothing nothing what not

620
00:31:58,480 --> 00:32:00,240
even abrasion

621
00:32:00,240 --> 00:32:04,039
what absolutely

622
00:32:04,039 --> 00:32:07,480
nothing we the wrong

623
00:32:07,480 --> 00:32:11,240
side yeah yeah it burned that is crazy

624
00:32:11,240 --> 00:32:14,360
it just burned a little bit on top but I

625
00:32:14,360 --> 00:32:16,240
would still climb with this rope yeah

626
00:32:16,240 --> 00:32:18,960
totally I was almost sure that it will

627
00:32:18,960 --> 00:32:23,720
not break but I was not expecting to the

628
00:32:23,720 --> 00:32:26,760
difference to be that drastic yeah all

629
00:32:26,760 --> 00:32:29,399
right so far we explore the dangers of

630
00:32:29,399 --> 00:32:32,799
sharp rocks but another massive danger

631
00:32:32,799 --> 00:32:35,919
comes from sharp climbing equipment this

632
00:32:35,919 --> 00:32:38,320
is for example in the climbing gym in

633
00:32:38,320 --> 00:32:40,760
the first caribiner oh the very very

634
00:32:40,760 --> 00:32:43,039
first quick draw in the gym was sharp

635
00:32:43,039 --> 00:32:45,840
and it cut somebody's rope mhm the Rope

636
00:32:45,840 --> 00:32:48,240
went like like this in the Carabiner and

637
00:32:48,240 --> 00:32:50,639
then up as you can imagine the climbing

638
00:32:50,639 --> 00:32:53,399
gym and so it sharpened it in a really

639
00:32:53,399 --> 00:32:56,880
bad way and for many many years maybe uh

640
00:32:56,880 --> 00:32:58,480
no one Dropped In in the first Quick

641
00:32:58,480 --> 00:33:01,320
Draw also no one inspected it in the gym

642
00:33:01,320 --> 00:33:02,639
the person fell into the first Quick

643
00:33:02,639 --> 00:33:04,760
Draw and then the the Rope ripped so

644
00:33:04,760 --> 00:33:06,519
what is this test well we're cutting

645
00:33:06,519 --> 00:33:08,760
ropes once again this time we're

646
00:33:08,760 --> 00:33:10,600
dropping the ropes over a sharp

647
00:33:10,600 --> 00:33:13,279
Carabiner it has a very sharp edge

648
00:33:13,279 --> 00:33:15,320
actually yeah you would

649
00:33:15,320 --> 00:33:17,639
notice if something like this would be

650
00:33:17,639 --> 00:33:22,840
out there three two one

651
00:33:26,480 --> 00:33:30,320
go you have to see this yeah it looks

652
00:33:30,320 --> 00:33:33,639
again very violent my God that one that

653
00:33:33,639 --> 00:33:38,039
was not something I was expecting 3 2 1

654
00:33:38,039 --> 00:33:41,039
go

655
00:34:01,360 --> 00:34:04,600
I think Bing it is oh it's so scary how

656
00:34:04,600 --> 00:34:07,720
it goes like for like 2 3 seconds goes

657
00:34:07,720 --> 00:34:11,520
zoom and then just boms it explodes now

658
00:34:11,520 --> 00:34:13,960
assuming the Rope would not fail this

659
00:34:13,960 --> 00:34:16,919
test was set to produce around 3 and A2

660
00:34:16,919 --> 00:34:20,440
ktons to the climber so again imitating

661
00:34:20,440 --> 00:34:23,079
real life

662
00:34:25,280 --> 00:34:27,679
scenarios oh my God that happened

663
00:34:27,679 --> 00:34:30,520
happens so fast it's not getting any

664
00:34:30,520 --> 00:34:32,720
better right still

665
00:34:32,720 --> 00:34:35,359
terrifying is it for you yeah it's

666
00:34:35,359 --> 00:34:38,440
shocking honestly like it it's such a

667
00:34:38,440 --> 00:34:40,159
violent

668
00:34:40,159 --> 00:34:43,520
explosion horrible gives me nightmares

669
00:34:43,520 --> 00:34:47,280
and 9.8 we

670
00:34:48,919 --> 00:34:54,280
go wow the Rope uh it survived but it's

671
00:34:54,280 --> 00:34:56,079
uh yeah it's pretty

672
00:34:56,079 --> 00:34:59,079
damaged I want to show you something

673
00:34:59,079 --> 00:35:01,000
because of this

674
00:35:01,000 --> 00:35:03,560
impact you create so much

675
00:35:03,560 --> 00:35:07,040
friction that actually this is like a

676
00:35:07,040 --> 00:35:09,839
part that melted it's like a little cap

677
00:35:09,839 --> 00:35:14,760
so this thing melted on the Carabiner

678
00:35:14,760 --> 00:35:16,320
and then the rest of the Rope was just

679
00:35:16,320 --> 00:35:18,880
going over it so it kind of created a

680
00:35:18,880 --> 00:35:22,440
protective uh piece of material that the

681
00:35:22,440 --> 00:35:24,880
rest of the Rope was sliding over this

682
00:35:24,880 --> 00:35:28,079
rope we know that it can break but but

683
00:35:28,079 --> 00:35:29,680
sometimes it can also hold so it's like

684
00:35:29,680 --> 00:35:32,359
a little bit of a

685
00:35:34,880 --> 00:35:38,050
[Music]

686
00:35:40,960 --> 00:35:47,450
gamble all right next 10.2 mm monster

687
00:35:47,450 --> 00:35:51,510
[Music]

688
00:35:54,079 --> 00:35:58,079
rope so yeah sometimes more is better

689
00:35:58,079 --> 00:36:00,160
but in case you want

690
00:36:00,160 --> 00:36:04,760
less here is a new construction

691
00:36:14,359 --> 00:36:17,079
rope first it cut through the outer shf

692
00:36:17,079 --> 00:36:20,079
it failed here but the sharp edge was

693
00:36:20,079 --> 00:36:23,480
traveling along the longitudinal side of

694
00:36:23,480 --> 00:36:29,040
the rope and kept on damaging but there

695
00:36:29,040 --> 00:36:31,359
um the middle Chef was protecting the co

696
00:36:31,359 --> 00:36:35,000
strand so this was good the craziest

697
00:36:35,000 --> 00:36:37,599
thing that this is this is fabric this

698
00:36:37,599 --> 00:36:41,319
is textile mhm and we are falling on it

699
00:36:41,319 --> 00:36:44,520
and it's holding and comes back like

700
00:36:44,520 --> 00:36:46,319
this coming back is always the most

701
00:36:46,319 --> 00:36:48,280
fascinating thing for me if you load it

702
00:36:48,280 --> 00:36:50,040
and you put it on the table and you see

703
00:36:50,040 --> 00:36:53,480
it shrinking back slowly it lives H you

704
00:36:53,480 --> 00:36:55,160
should name your rope you can write a

705
00:36:55,160 --> 00:36:58,640
comment what name you give to your rope

706
00:36:58,640 --> 00:37:00,720
we're curious the name with the most up

707
00:37:00,720 --> 00:37:04,839
votes will get a free rope from

708
00:37:05,880 --> 00:37:10,160
mammut is that the case that' be cool

709
00:37:10,160 --> 00:37:12,359
let just's make that happen okay yeah

710
00:37:12,359 --> 00:37:13,839
that's that's

711
00:37:13,839 --> 00:37:17,160
that so for whom is this

712
00:37:17,160 --> 00:37:20,839
rope for a sailor for sailor a nice

713
00:37:20,839 --> 00:37:21,760
wooden

714
00:37:21,760 --> 00:37:25,240
boat yeah it matches

715
00:37:25,240 --> 00:37:27,760
then ah we are talking not about this

716
00:37:27,760 --> 00:37:30,680
we're talking about this rope so should

717
00:37:30,680 --> 00:37:33,040
I buy this rope for going to the cracks

718
00:37:33,040 --> 00:37:36,440
or it has a different intent for whom

719
00:37:36,440 --> 00:37:39,200
this rope is actually mountaineering

720
00:37:39,200 --> 00:37:41,520
Ridge climbing multi-pitch climbing

721
00:37:41,520 --> 00:37:43,680
where yeah there are a lot of sharp

722
00:37:43,680 --> 00:37:45,760
edges also maybe ice climbing is where

723
00:37:45,760 --> 00:37:49,440
you maneuver with a lot of Sharp Tools

724
00:37:49,440 --> 00:37:52,079
already single pitch climbing yeah sport

725
00:37:52,079 --> 00:37:54,200
climbing Trad climbing do you really

726
00:37:54,200 --> 00:37:56,319
need it I would say hey it depends on

727
00:37:56,319 --> 00:38:00,359
the route why wouldn't I want this in a

728
00:38:00,359 --> 00:38:04,680
crack will it last less long is it less

729
00:38:04,680 --> 00:38:07,359
durable since the sheath is you said a

730
00:38:07,359 --> 00:38:10,680
little bit thinner yeah so you have a

731
00:38:10,680 --> 00:38:13,240
little bit less uh sheath since we had

732
00:38:13,240 --> 00:38:16,480
to make room for the aramid uh shf did

733
00:38:16,480 --> 00:38:18,359
you run this through your abrasion

734
00:38:18,359 --> 00:38:21,160
testing machine yes we saw a decrease

735
00:38:21,160 --> 00:38:22,560
but you know in German we have the

736
00:38:22,560 --> 00:38:26,720
saying that you want theing Theo so you

737
00:38:26,720 --> 00:38:28,359
want

738
00:38:28,359 --> 00:38:32,640
and a a pig that has wool and is also

739
00:38:32,640 --> 00:38:36,560
laying eggs so you want you want an a

740
00:38:36,560 --> 00:38:40,720
all overall package that does not exist

741
00:38:40,720 --> 00:38:42,400
so this is kind of the thing with robes

742
00:38:42,400 --> 00:38:44,640
you can't have it all at once so that

743
00:38:44,640 --> 00:38:47,200
was a journey which makes me really

744
00:38:47,200 --> 00:38:50,400
curious to see what's coming next and

745
00:38:50,400 --> 00:38:52,359
what rope names you going to put down in

746
00:38:52,359 --> 00:38:55,560
the comments and also making this video

747
00:38:55,560 --> 00:38:58,720
took me over 3 months many locations and

748
00:38:58,720 --> 00:39:01,040
many smart humans helping

749
00:39:01,040 --> 00:39:04,480
me so probably not the best strategy for

750
00:39:04,480 --> 00:39:07,520
a successful YouTube business and it

751
00:39:07,520 --> 00:39:09,960
would definitely not be possible without

752
00:39:09,960 --> 00:39:13,000
kind people supporting me on my patreon

753
00:39:13,000 --> 00:39:14,800
and in other

754
00:39:14,800 --> 00:39:19,119
means so I send a lot of low gravity

755
00:39:19,119 --> 00:39:22,400
days to these kind of people these kind

756
00:39:22,400 --> 00:39:25,760
of kind people and thank you for

757
00:39:25,760 --> 00:39:27,560
watching and see you in the next next

758
00:39:27,560 --> 00:39:29,920
one