WEBVTT

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Benvenuti al più ampio studio sulle cadute in arrampicata

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Negli ultimi due anni abbiamo

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misurato e analizzato centinaia di cadute

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Grandi, piccole, con arrampicatori pesanti e leggeri

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e un sacco di attrito

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"Non riesco a fare sicura dinamica così!"

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All'inizio avevo due domante principali

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a cui volevo rispondere

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in questo studio; la prima è

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la quantità di lasco incide sulla caduta?

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Se l'assicuratore dà più corda, ovviamente

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l'arrampicatore farà una caduta più lunga, e se

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cadrà verticalmente la caduta sarà

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più dura perché cadrà di più.

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Tuttavia, nell'arrampicata si verifica spesso

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un piccolo pendolo, una piccola oscillazione

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verso la parete, quindi la domanda è:

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cadere di più riduce questo pendolo?

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Riduce la forza dell'impatto con il quale l'arrampicatore

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colpirà la parete? E la seconda parte dello

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studio cerca di rispondere alla domanda

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"qual è il miglior metodo per assicurare?"

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Compareremo il saltare in alto con

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il fare un passo avanti, e come bonus se cambia

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if the blayer is heavier and as an extra

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bonus we also compared against the tube

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style soft catches where you let the

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Rope slide through the device and while

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my curiosity started with these two

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questions I actually discovered way more

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including some peculiar cases how

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lightweight blayer can cause harder

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catch when a heavier

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blay so let's begin now the problem of

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making such studies is a sheer number of

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variables every fall is different we

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have different weights of the climber

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and the Blair the position of the

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climber before the fall fall height and

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the friction and also the Rope might get

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stiffer over multiple fs and of course

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the big one is how the Blair will handle

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the catch so so I thought okay challenge

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accepted I'm going to put a force

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measuring device on the climber and do

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as many different faults as needed to

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see the patterns and off we went

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measuring and measuring and measuring

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hundred hundreds of Falls and I was

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building a huge database of

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results and after a lot of work I

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understood something and oh [ __ ] moment

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happened what we were actually measuring

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was the peak Force to the climber's

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harness which happens around this moment

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of the Fall however this moment is not a

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problem for the climber what is the

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problem however is how hard the climber

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will hit the wall I always felt sorry

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for these lightweight climbers who are

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slammed into the walls and end up with

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broken or sprained

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ankles so let's fix that now while the

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peak forces should have a correlation

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with how hard the climber will hit the

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wall I needed to find a way to prove it

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and here I was mounting a camera to the

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wall with the hope to calculate the

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speed at which the climber would hit the

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wall based on slow motion footage and

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here was a tricky part due to

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perspective Distortion objects that are

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further away look smaller and in

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addition to that every camera lens

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introduced extra Distortion so I really

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needed to mount the camera as

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perpendicular to the climber's falling

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plane as possible and it's not like I

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can just float the camera anywhere in

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space I want but after a bit of root

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searching and then a lot of object

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tracking combined with a lot of custom

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code I wrote I got these beautiful

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velocity and acceleration

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graphs and now we can do hundreds of

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more fults and make sense of them all

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right let's begin with the question how

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does different amount of slack affect

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the fall what we did was a series of

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incremental Falls where the Blair does

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nothing basically causing a hard catch

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the first fall was with zero slack and

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even though it's a small fall I was

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swung towards the wall really

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hard for the second fall we used about

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half of arm of slack and despite the

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fall being a little bit bigger this time

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the peak horizontal velocity was

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lower now of course on such overhanging

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routes the more the Climber Falls the

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further the wall gets and that's why I

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was measuring horizontal speed and the

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peak of that speed usually happens at

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the bottom of the pendulum and it's a

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very good indicator of what would happen

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if the wall would not be overhanging all

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right let's try with even bigger Falls

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Charlie was clearly enjoying this yeah

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subscribe and the result was interesting

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the horizontal speed was nearly

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identical to the previous fall however

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the peak acceleration was bigger which

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means that the climber would reach the

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peak speed faster so based on this it

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seems that having a little bit of slack

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was better than no slack but having even

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more was

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questionable however despite us trying

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to Mim Mig hard catches these faults

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weren't that hard The Faults were

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relatively small and the blayer was

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still pulled up a lot and the reason I'm

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saying this is that in the past I have

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done similar tests under this bridge

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where I have discovered that once the

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fall is hard enough it exceeds the

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rope's ability to absorb the impact and

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the climber experiences a bounce back

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effect and this causes harder false for

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the climber however when we tried the

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same with soft catches there was no

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bounce back and the swing was

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lower so back to real Rock let's leave

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the hard catches for the reference and

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see how the soft catches will compare

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starting with zero slack we can see that

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the trajectory of the Fall is more

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gradual and that the horizontal speed

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and acceleration was lower significantly

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lower next fall was with half arm of

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slack and despite the climber falling

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more horizontal speed was actually

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almost

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identical so let's try bigger okay

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one two oh okay let's

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go o that was soft don't you think I I

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was too scared to think so despite

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nearly pulling my Blair into the first

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bolt and colliding with him the

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horizontal speed again was nearly

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identical so at least in this test case

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scenario falling more combined with soft

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catch had no benefits but as they say

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one test is no test and that's why I was

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rigging another one in the spot where we

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will be able to do even bigger Falls

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falling hardish so we started with zero

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amount of slack and Charlie giving the

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softest catch he can however the fall

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was described as hard

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dish

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ready yeah one two three

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falling softer and this time adding a

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little bit of slack felt softer for the

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climber and also did reduce the

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horizontal speed by a little bit so

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let's see what happens with even bigger

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Falls you good whenever you want one two

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three

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falling take a big pop very soft very

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soft and if we look into the graphs the

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horizontal speed was even lower this

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time so we went even bigger to 1 and 1

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half M of slack which is quite a lot one

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two three

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falling

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woo that was soft but there was this

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kind of D yeah yeah I I noticed it

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myself so this time the climber felt

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more jerk on the initial impact of the

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Rope however the horizontal speed was

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further reduced and looking into all of

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these faults we can clearly see

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correlation how increasing the amount of

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slack decrease reles the horizontal

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speed into the

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wall and since that was contradicting

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with our previous findings we had to do

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more Falls and in this scenario falling

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more was also better you can even see

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the visual

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difference and here is one more example

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this time the climber was falling from

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lower position and we had less friction

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once again falling more had softer

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impact with the wall so a summary of

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this segment is that the swing or the

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pendulum into the wall can be reduced by

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extra slack however if you exceed R's

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ability to absorb the impact the Rope

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will bounce the climber back into the

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wall and then things might be even worse

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and obviously falling more gets you

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closer to exceeding that limit but more

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importantly hard catch can get you there

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very quickly so for example here is one

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of the most common mistakes where the

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bler simply throws a ton of slack but no

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effort in making a soft

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catch

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okay and here is another one first a

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soft

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catch and now a hard one

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that okay we had the same amount of

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slack but the difference was

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massive you can clearly see the

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bounceback effect how the climber is

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being pulled back

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up what was your

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impressions one elbow versus two elbows

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versus three elbows no elbows between

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one elbow and two you'll have to measure

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that mass masso menos more or less what

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it's going to be but I think that's The

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Sweet Spot how was no slack at all

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difficult to give the soft catch it's

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difficult to give the soft catch yeah

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with no slag is really hard

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to hit the timing perfectly yeah so what

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we all noticed is that with zero slack

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it's really hard to give a soft catch

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because you don't have enough time to go

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down and jump up maybe with the

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exception If the fall is really big then

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the climber is falling for quite a while

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and then you have time but on very very

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small Falls you would have to have some

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cat reflexes and go like super fast but

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in general the most comfortable was

00:11:48.160 --> 00:11:51.120
between half to full arm of slack and

00:11:51.120 --> 00:11:53.200
that caused the softest catches for the

00:11:53.200 --> 00:11:57.120
climbers and more than that is very very

00:11:57.120 --> 00:11:59.600
rarely beneficial and simp simply asking

00:11:59.600 --> 00:12:02.160
for some collisions or dragging the

00:12:02.160 --> 00:12:05.519
blayer into the first bolt or simply a

00:12:05.519 --> 00:12:07.600
bunch of extra Pull-Ups for the climber

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after the fall and uh the bigger ones

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like three elbows like I say between one

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and two elbows is The Sweet Spot like

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one and two is more or less the same for

00:12:19.760 --> 00:12:24.760
me personally three is also softer Anna

00:12:24.760 --> 00:12:28.959
says but just a little bit harder to

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judge again but it's harder to judge

00:12:31.279 --> 00:12:33.760
when to jump mhm the EAS the climber is

00:12:33.760 --> 00:12:36.399
falling faster already exactly exactly

00:12:36.399 --> 00:12:38.399
now I can see how lightweight blers are

00:12:38.399 --> 00:12:40.800
probably already typing no slack for me

00:12:40.800 --> 00:12:43.600
I fly up anyway so we actually did

00:12:43.600 --> 00:12:45.440
testing on that and we got some

00:12:45.440 --> 00:12:48.000
interesting results but before that I

00:12:48.000 --> 00:12:50.320
just wanted to quickly say thank you for

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all my friends and supporters who helped

00:12:53.160 --> 00:12:55.600
in creating all of this study it's been

00:12:55.600 --> 00:12:58.079
the biggest project I've ever tried both

00:12:58.079 --> 00:13:01.480
in terms of time and energy and money so

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it would definitely not be possible

00:13:03.519 --> 00:13:07.000
without all of you so huge thank you and

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now back to lightweight blers so we

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started with zero

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slack wa that looked

00:13:15.079 --> 00:13:19.160
harder yeah visually and we can already

00:13:19.160 --> 00:13:22.160
see something interesting once the robe

00:13:22.160 --> 00:13:24.560
gets tight the speed of the climber

00:13:24.560 --> 00:13:28.279
starts to drop however as soon as the

00:13:28.279 --> 00:13:31.839
blay is pulled off the ground the speed

00:13:31.839 --> 00:13:34.839
of the climber starts to increase again

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the climber experiences a double fall

00:13:41.160 --> 00:13:44.920
effect okay let's increase the amount of

00:13:44.920 --> 00:13:48.160
slack we still get this double fall

00:13:48.160 --> 00:13:51.880
effect but the horizontal speed is

00:13:51.880 --> 00:13:54.160
reduced so let's go

00:13:54.160 --> 00:13:57.560
bigger and here we have the same pattern

00:13:57.560 --> 00:14:00.880
a double fall but the horizontal speed

00:14:00.880 --> 00:14:03.000
is even further

00:14:03.000 --> 00:14:06.120
reduced so let's try even bigger with

00:14:06.120 --> 00:14:09.920
crazy one and a half arms of

00:14:09.920 --> 00:14:16.000
slack you ready yeah three two one soft

00:14:16.000 --> 00:14:19.199
catch and here the double fall effect is

00:14:19.199 --> 00:14:22.079
very visible but same as in previous

00:14:22.079 --> 00:14:24.560
experiments we see a strong correlation

00:14:24.560 --> 00:14:27.320
that the bigger the fall the slower the

00:14:27.320 --> 00:14:30.160
horizontal speed for the climber so the

00:14:30.160 --> 00:14:32.880
softer impact with the wall and while

00:14:32.880 --> 00:14:36.240
that wasn't a surprise what was however

00:14:36.240 --> 00:14:39.800
a surprise is when we swapped her and me

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naturally I was expecting that the

00:14:41.720 --> 00:14:44.480
heavier Blair should cause a harder

00:14:44.480 --> 00:14:47.800
catch for the climber but if we compare

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Anna's no slack versus mine you can see

00:14:52.720 --> 00:14:57.680
that my catch was significantly

00:14:57.680 --> 00:15:00.000
softer

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and here is Anna's half arm of slack

00:15:03.759 --> 00:15:06.600
compared to

00:15:06.720 --> 00:15:10.240
mine and same results my catch was

00:15:10.240 --> 00:15:13.720
softer again and to be fair we were

00:15:13.720 --> 00:15:17.360
asking her to give a soft catch

00:15:17.360 --> 00:15:21.000
one two and give a soft catch you ready

00:15:21.000 --> 00:15:25.480
yeah soft catch on three 2

00:15:27.600 --> 00:15:32.959
1 and finally Anna's full arm of

00:15:32.959 --> 00:15:36.600
slack versus

00:15:37.279 --> 00:15:40.680
mine and to my surprise I was giving

00:15:40.680 --> 00:15:43.480
softer catches for the climber than the

00:15:43.480 --> 00:15:44.480
lighter

00:15:44.480 --> 00:15:47.079
belayer however I think this has more to

00:15:47.079 --> 00:15:49.240
do with the fact that lighter blers

00:15:49.240 --> 00:15:52.000
usually fly up anyway so they don't have

00:15:52.000 --> 00:15:55.639
enough practice to give soft catches but

00:15:55.639 --> 00:15:58.120
let me give you another example so this

00:15:58.120 --> 00:16:02.399
experiment was slightly different 118

00:16:02.399 --> 00:16:05.639
here Me and Charlie did a bunch of soft

00:16:05.639 --> 00:16:08.160
catches but this time we measured the

00:16:08.160 --> 00:16:11.079
forces to the climber this was the

00:16:11.079 --> 00:16:13.920
average line of Charlie's catches this

00:16:13.920 --> 00:16:16.959
was mine and this was the average of

00:16:16.959 --> 00:16:20.240
averages and we also did some hard

00:16:20.240 --> 00:16:23.759
catches for the

00:16:25.120 --> 00:16:28.360
reference that was much harder all right

00:16:28.360 --> 00:16:32.199
and now let's compare this to a light

00:16:32.199 --> 00:16:36.839
Blair no no and the first catch was

00:16:36.839 --> 00:16:41.759
really bad in fact as hard as our heart

00:16:41.759 --> 00:16:44.519
catches you jumped way too soon you've

00:16:44.519 --> 00:16:47.199
got to wait till she sucks you you're

00:16:47.199 --> 00:16:48.720
down here and when you can feel her

00:16:48.720 --> 00:16:52.360
sucking you you push up with

00:16:52.880 --> 00:16:55.519
her look at her once she starts falling

00:16:55.519 --> 00:17:00.480
you go down up I am getting scared

00:17:01.560 --> 00:17:03.680
come

00:17:07.199 --> 00:17:10.679
on no now the second catch was much

00:17:10.679 --> 00:17:14.160
better but still not what we were

00:17:14.160 --> 00:17:18.360
expecting so we did some

00:17:18.360 --> 00:17:22.799
practicing oh that was super soft

00:17:22.959 --> 00:17:27.120
falling and then this

00:17:27.400 --> 00:17:28.919
happened

00:17:28.919 --> 00:17:33.919
that look quite nice 12

00:17:33.919 --> 00:17:36.960
121 so as you can see experience plays a

00:17:36.960 --> 00:17:39.799
bigger role than being lighter and

00:17:39.799 --> 00:17:42.400
although lighter blares very rarely

00:17:42.400 --> 00:17:44.400
cause hard catches for

00:17:44.400 --> 00:17:47.520
climbers however with enough friction

00:17:47.520 --> 00:17:50.280
light Blair becomes heavy and actually

00:17:50.280 --> 00:17:53.120
recently I saw one really nasty fall

00:17:53.120 --> 00:17:55.400
where a bler was a light girl a climber

00:17:55.400 --> 00:17:57.760
was relatively light girl a lot of

00:17:57.760 --> 00:18:02.000
friction and a huge slam into the wall

00:18:02.000 --> 00:18:04.799
and then a poor girl had to get

00:18:04.799 --> 00:18:06.960
assistance to get back to the

00:18:06.960 --> 00:18:10.799
car and I'm curious did you ever got

00:18:10.799 --> 00:18:13.520
unexpectedly hard catch from a light

00:18:13.520 --> 00:18:15.720
blayer write down in the comments I want

00:18:15.720 --> 00:18:18.760
to see how often that happens all right

00:18:18.760 --> 00:18:21.720
so we have seen how both slack and soft

00:18:21.720 --> 00:18:25.320
catch has a big effect on the fall but

00:18:25.320 --> 00:18:28.840
there is something even more important

00:18:28.840 --> 00:18:33.080
here is a hard catch with no

00:18:34.880 --> 00:18:37.720
slack and here is a soft catch with a

00:18:37.720 --> 00:18:40.200
little bit of slack so we can see the

00:18:40.200 --> 00:18:43.720
best and the worst case

00:18:44.000 --> 00:18:47.000
scenarios but now check what happens

00:18:47.000 --> 00:18:49.679
when the Climber Falls from slightly

00:18:49.679 --> 00:18:52.080
different position I simply changed my

00:18:52.080 --> 00:18:56.840
legs but I was not pushing away from the

00:18:57.320 --> 00:19:00.320
wall

00:19:00.370 --> 00:19:02.530
[Music]

00:19:02.530 --> 00:19:04.910
[Laughter]

00:19:04.910 --> 00:19:10.719
[Music]

00:19:11.240 --> 00:19:14.520
I anticipa a bit too much there that's

00:19:14.520 --> 00:19:15.760
why you wear a

00:19:15.760 --> 00:19:18.039
helmet that would have been a what was

00:19:18.039 --> 00:19:20.200
it a trip straight to the yard a trip

00:19:20.200 --> 00:19:23.720
straight to the yard that would be

00:19:23.720 --> 00:19:26.720
go but if we look into the graphs we can

00:19:26.720 --> 00:19:28.840
see that this new fall

00:19:28.840 --> 00:19:32.400
had harder fall than the hard catch

00:19:32.400 --> 00:19:35.000
before despite Charlie trying to give it

00:19:35.000 --> 00:19:37.159
a soft catch with his

00:19:37.159 --> 00:19:40.240
head so as you can see how the Climber

00:19:40.240 --> 00:19:42.320
Falls can be more important than the

00:19:42.320 --> 00:19:46.200
amount of slack or a soft catch and here

00:19:46.200 --> 00:19:48.159
sometimes you can see beginners pushing

00:19:48.159 --> 00:19:51.080
away from the wall during the fall and

00:19:51.080 --> 00:19:53.280
combine that with another inexperienced

00:19:53.280 --> 00:19:55.559
delayer and a hard catch and that's a

00:19:55.559 --> 00:19:59.000
good recipe for sprained ankles so so do

00:19:59.000 --> 00:20:02.480
not push it's very rarely beneficial to

00:20:02.480 --> 00:20:04.520
push away unless you're clearing some

00:20:04.520 --> 00:20:08.840
kind of slab but otherwise do not push

00:20:08.840 --> 00:20:11.080
now in the second part of this study I

00:20:11.080 --> 00:20:13.559
wanted to figure out which blay method

00:20:13.559 --> 00:20:16.840
is the best so we compared jumping up

00:20:16.840 --> 00:20:20.280
versus stepping forward and also does

00:20:20.280 --> 00:20:23.640
that change if the player is heavier or

00:20:23.640 --> 00:20:26.280
there is a lot of friction in the system

00:20:26.280 --> 00:20:28.520
but since all of this is already SL slly

00:20:28.520 --> 00:20:30.600
different topic I'm going to split all

00:20:30.600 --> 00:20:33.960
of this in a part two of this video but

00:20:33.960 --> 00:20:35.559
before you go I wanted to share

00:20:35.559 --> 00:20:37.400
something with you that you might find

00:20:37.400 --> 00:20:39.919
beneficial in order to create these nice

00:20:39.919 --> 00:20:42.000
charts that you have seen in this video

00:20:42.000 --> 00:20:44.320
I needed to understand how to take my

00:20:44.320 --> 00:20:47.200
messy experimental data and perform a

00:20:47.200 --> 00:20:50.600
polom fitting this allows to obtain a

00:20:50.600 --> 00:20:53.720
smooth graph that don't lose important

00:20:53.720 --> 00:20:56.880
points and chances are if you're like me

00:20:56.880 --> 00:20:59.520
math and physics might not be our main

00:20:59.520 --> 00:21:01.799
career path and our abilities to

00:21:01.799 --> 00:21:03.760
understand such topics either never

00:21:03.760 --> 00:21:06.640
existed or are already fading away since

00:21:06.640 --> 00:21:08.760
the last time we sat in calculus or

00:21:08.760 --> 00:21:11.360
physics class and that's why I've been

00:21:11.360 --> 00:21:14.440
really enjoying brilliant.org it's the

00:21:14.440 --> 00:21:17.039
best way to learn math data science and

00:21:17.039 --> 00:21:19.440
computer science interactively in

00:21:19.440 --> 00:21:21.679
general I see two problems of learning

00:21:21.679 --> 00:21:24.559
Advanced topics the first one is not

00:21:24.559 --> 00:21:27.559
having enough building blocks that lead

00:21:27.559 --> 00:21:31.000
into more advanced subjects that's why I

00:21:31.000 --> 00:21:32.679
really love their new feature of

00:21:32.679 --> 00:21:34.880
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00:21:34.880 --> 00:21:37.200
progressively guides you from the very

00:21:37.200 --> 00:21:39.919
Basics to more and more complicated and

00:21:39.919 --> 00:21:42.360
interesting topics personally I'm nearly

00:21:42.360 --> 00:21:44.679
done with foundational math and now I

00:21:44.679 --> 00:21:47.279
feel more than ready to dive into data

00:21:47.279 --> 00:21:50.279
science and physics that's my two recent

00:21:50.279 --> 00:21:52.440
interests and the second reason which

00:21:52.440 --> 00:21:54.679
stops us from taking on such learnings

00:21:54.679 --> 00:21:58.720
is that it might feel like oh it might

00:21:58.720 --> 00:22:01.679
take forever to understand these topics

00:22:01.679 --> 00:22:04.600
however just 15 to 20 minutes a day

00:22:04.600 --> 00:22:08.240
equals to 100 hours a year and in 100

00:22:08.240 --> 00:22:10.919
hours you can learn a lot of things and

00:22:10.919 --> 00:22:13.919
greatly expand your Curiosity on life so

00:22:13.919 --> 00:22:15.400
if you're curious you can try

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subscriptions so thank you brilliant.org

00:22:30.960 --> 00:22:33.760
team for making curious humans and

00:22:33.760 --> 00:22:36.679
supporting my mega researchers and thank

00:22:36.679 --> 00:22:41.559
you curious human for watching my mega

00:22:41.559 --> 00:22:46.480
researches see you in the next one