1
00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:03,931
Benvenuti al più ampio studio sulle cadute in arrampicata

2
00:00:08,745 --> 00:00:10,520
Negli ultimi due anni abbiamo

3
00:00:10,520 --> 00:00:12,850
misurato e analizzato centinaia di cadute

4
00:00:12,850 --> 00:00:15,939
Grandi, piccole, con arrampicatori pesanti e leggeri

5
00:00:15,939 --> 00:00:17,600
e un sacco di attrito

6
00:00:21,040 --> 00:00:23,620
"Non riesco a fare sicura dinamica così!"

7
00:00:23,620 --> 00:00:25,719
All'inizio avevo due domante principali

8
00:00:25,719 --> 00:00:27,320
a cui volevo rispondere

9
00:00:27,320 --> 00:00:29,319
in questo studio; la prima è

10
00:00:29,319 --> 00:00:32,919
la quantità di lasco incide sulla caduta?

11
00:00:32,919 --> 00:00:35,040
Se l'assicuratore dà più corda, ovviamente

12
00:00:35,040 --> 00:00:37,480
l'arrampicatore farà una caduta più lunga, e se

13
00:00:37,480 --> 00:00:40,000
cadrà verticalmente la caduta sarà

14
00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:42,440
più dura perché cadrà di più.

15
00:00:42,440 --> 00:00:44,849
Tuttavia, nell'arrampicata si verifica spesso

16
00:00:44,849 --> 00:00:47,070
un piccolo pendolo, una piccola oscillazione

17
00:00:47,070 --> 00:00:48,960
verso la parete, quindi la domanda è:

18
00:00:48,960 --> 00:00:51,760
cadere di più riduce questo pendolo?

19
00:00:51,760 --> 00:00:54,199
Riduce la forza dell'impatto con il quale l'arrampicatore

20
00:00:54,199 --> 00:00:56,719
colpirà la parete? E la seconda parte dello

21
00:00:56,719 --> 00:00:59,239
studio cerca di rispondere alla domanda

22
00:00:59,239 --> 00:01:02,440
"qual è il miglior metodo per assicurare?"

23
00:01:02,440 --> 00:01:05,760
Compareremo il saltare in alto con

24
00:01:05,760 --> 00:01:08,920
il fare un passo avanti, e come bonus se cambia

25
00:01:08,920 --> 00:01:12,040
if the blayer is heavier and as an extra

26
00:01:12,040 --> 00:01:14,520
bonus we also compared against the tube

27
00:01:14,520 --> 00:01:16,680
style soft catches where you let the

28
00:01:16,680 --> 00:01:19,360
Rope slide through the device and while

29
00:01:19,360 --> 00:01:21,360
my curiosity started with these two

30
00:01:21,360 --> 00:01:24,040
questions I actually discovered way more

31
00:01:24,040 --> 00:01:26,759
including some peculiar cases how

32
00:01:26,759 --> 00:01:30,119
lightweight blayer can cause harder

33
00:01:30,119 --> 00:01:33,159
catch when a heavier

34
00:01:33,159 --> 00:01:37,040
blay so let's begin now the problem of

35
00:01:37,040 --> 00:01:39,880
making such studies is a sheer number of

36
00:01:39,880 --> 00:01:42,759
variables every fall is different we

37
00:01:42,759 --> 00:01:44,640
have different weights of the climber

38
00:01:44,640 --> 00:01:46,960
and the Blair the position of the

39
00:01:46,960 --> 00:01:50,280
climber before the fall fall height and

40
00:01:50,280 --> 00:01:52,880
the friction and also the Rope might get

41
00:01:52,880 --> 00:01:55,600
stiffer over multiple fs and of course

42
00:01:55,600 --> 00:01:58,159
the big one is how the Blair will handle

43
00:01:58,159 --> 00:02:01,759
the catch so so I thought okay challenge

44
00:02:01,759 --> 00:02:03,960
accepted I'm going to put a force

45
00:02:03,960 --> 00:02:06,600
measuring device on the climber and do

46
00:02:06,600 --> 00:02:09,200
as many different faults as needed to

47
00:02:09,200 --> 00:02:12,560
see the patterns and off we went

48
00:02:12,560 --> 00:02:15,319
measuring and measuring and measuring

49
00:02:15,319 --> 00:02:17,480
hundred hundreds of Falls and I was

50
00:02:17,480 --> 00:02:20,400
building a huge database of

51
00:02:20,400 --> 00:02:23,519
results and after a lot of work I

52
00:02:23,519 --> 00:02:27,200
understood something and oh [ __ ] moment

53
00:02:27,200 --> 00:02:29,599
happened what we were actually measuring

54
00:02:29,599 --> 00:02:31,920
was the peak Force to the climber's

55
00:02:31,920 --> 00:02:34,920
harness which happens around this moment

56
00:02:34,920 --> 00:02:37,599
of the Fall however this moment is not a

57
00:02:37,599 --> 00:02:39,680
problem for the climber what is the

58
00:02:39,680 --> 00:02:42,599
problem however is how hard the climber

59
00:02:42,599 --> 00:02:45,440
will hit the wall I always felt sorry

60
00:02:45,440 --> 00:02:48,120
for these lightweight climbers who are

61
00:02:48,120 --> 00:02:50,720
slammed into the walls and end up with

62
00:02:50,720 --> 00:02:53,519
broken or sprained

63
00:02:53,519 --> 00:02:57,040
ankles so let's fix that now while the

64
00:02:57,040 --> 00:02:59,400
peak forces should have a correlation

65
00:02:59,400 --> 00:03:01,560
with how hard the climber will hit the

66
00:03:01,560 --> 00:03:05,120
wall I needed to find a way to prove it

67
00:03:05,120 --> 00:03:07,519
and here I was mounting a camera to the

68
00:03:07,519 --> 00:03:10,080
wall with the hope to calculate the

69
00:03:10,080 --> 00:03:12,440
speed at which the climber would hit the

70
00:03:12,440 --> 00:03:15,599
wall based on slow motion footage and

71
00:03:15,599 --> 00:03:17,680
here was a tricky part due to

72
00:03:17,680 --> 00:03:19,799
perspective Distortion objects that are

73
00:03:19,799 --> 00:03:22,680
further away look smaller and in

74
00:03:22,680 --> 00:03:24,959
addition to that every camera lens

75
00:03:24,959 --> 00:03:28,120
introduced extra Distortion so I really

76
00:03:28,120 --> 00:03:30,439
needed to mount the camera as

77
00:03:30,439 --> 00:03:32,799
perpendicular to the climber's falling

78
00:03:32,799 --> 00:03:36,080
plane as possible and it's not like I

79
00:03:36,080 --> 00:03:38,640
can just float the camera anywhere in

80
00:03:38,640 --> 00:03:41,560
space I want but after a bit of root

81
00:03:41,560 --> 00:03:44,000
searching and then a lot of object

82
00:03:44,000 --> 00:03:46,879
tracking combined with a lot of custom

83
00:03:46,879 --> 00:03:49,560
code I wrote I got these beautiful

84
00:03:49,560 --> 00:03:51,959
velocity and acceleration

85
00:03:51,959 --> 00:03:54,879
graphs and now we can do hundreds of

86
00:03:54,879 --> 00:03:57,920
more fults and make sense of them all

87
00:03:57,920 --> 00:03:59,920
right let's begin with the question how

88
00:03:59,920 --> 00:04:02,159
does different amount of slack affect

89
00:04:02,159 --> 00:04:04,760
the fall what we did was a series of

90
00:04:04,760 --> 00:04:07,319
incremental Falls where the Blair does

91
00:04:07,319 --> 00:04:10,560
nothing basically causing a hard catch

92
00:04:10,560 --> 00:04:13,239
the first fall was with zero slack and

93
00:04:13,239 --> 00:04:15,760
even though it's a small fall I was

94
00:04:15,760 --> 00:04:19,880
swung towards the wall really

95
00:04:20,479 --> 00:04:23,639
hard for the second fall we used about

96
00:04:23,639 --> 00:04:26,919
half of arm of slack and despite the

97
00:04:26,919 --> 00:04:29,720
fall being a little bit bigger this time

98
00:04:29,720 --> 00:04:33,759
the peak horizontal velocity was

99
00:04:33,759 --> 00:04:36,560
lower now of course on such overhanging

100
00:04:36,560 --> 00:04:38,880
routes the more the Climber Falls the

101
00:04:38,880 --> 00:04:41,919
further the wall gets and that's why I

102
00:04:41,919 --> 00:04:44,600
was measuring horizontal speed and the

103
00:04:44,600 --> 00:04:46,639
peak of that speed usually happens at

104
00:04:46,639 --> 00:04:49,080
the bottom of the pendulum and it's a

105
00:04:49,080 --> 00:04:51,520
very good indicator of what would happen

106
00:04:51,520 --> 00:04:54,520
if the wall would not be overhanging all

107
00:04:54,520 --> 00:04:57,600
right let's try with even bigger Falls

108
00:04:57,600 --> 00:05:02,720
Charlie was clearly enjoying this yeah

109
00:05:02,720 --> 00:05:05,680
subscribe and the result was interesting

110
00:05:05,680 --> 00:05:07,759
the horizontal speed was nearly

111
00:05:07,759 --> 00:05:10,400
identical to the previous fall however

112
00:05:10,400 --> 00:05:13,160
the peak acceleration was bigger which

113
00:05:13,160 --> 00:05:15,080
means that the climber would reach the

114
00:05:15,080 --> 00:05:18,840
peak speed faster so based on this it

115
00:05:18,840 --> 00:05:21,319
seems that having a little bit of slack

116
00:05:21,319 --> 00:05:24,720
was better than no slack but having even

117
00:05:24,720 --> 00:05:26,319
more was

118
00:05:26,319 --> 00:05:29,039
questionable however despite us trying

119
00:05:29,039 --> 00:05:31,600
to Mim Mig hard catches these faults

120
00:05:31,600 --> 00:05:34,960
weren't that hard The Faults were

121
00:05:34,960 --> 00:05:37,560
relatively small and the blayer was

122
00:05:37,560 --> 00:05:40,199
still pulled up a lot and the reason I'm

123
00:05:40,199 --> 00:05:42,360
saying this is that in the past I have

124
00:05:42,360 --> 00:05:45,160
done similar tests under this bridge

125
00:05:45,160 --> 00:05:47,520
where I have discovered that once the

126
00:05:47,520 --> 00:05:50,600
fall is hard enough it exceeds the

127
00:05:50,600 --> 00:05:53,360
rope's ability to absorb the impact and

128
00:05:53,360 --> 00:05:56,199
the climber experiences a bounce back

129
00:05:56,199 --> 00:05:59,639
effect and this causes harder false for

130
00:05:59,639 --> 00:06:02,680
the climber however when we tried the

131
00:06:02,680 --> 00:06:05,520
same with soft catches there was no

132
00:06:05,520 --> 00:06:09,080
bounce back and the swing was

133
00:06:09,080 --> 00:06:12,280
lower so back to real Rock let's leave

134
00:06:12,280 --> 00:06:14,599
the hard catches for the reference and

135
00:06:14,599 --> 00:06:17,520
see how the soft catches will compare

136
00:06:17,520 --> 00:06:20,360
starting with zero slack we can see that

137
00:06:20,360 --> 00:06:22,919
the trajectory of the Fall is more

138
00:06:22,919 --> 00:06:26,000
gradual and that the horizontal speed

139
00:06:26,000 --> 00:06:29,479
and acceleration was lower significantly

140
00:06:29,479 --> 00:06:32,479
lower next fall was with half arm of

141
00:06:32,479 --> 00:06:35,039
slack and despite the climber falling

142
00:06:35,039 --> 00:06:37,720
more horizontal speed was actually

143
00:06:37,720 --> 00:06:38,880
almost

144
00:06:38,880 --> 00:06:43,160
identical so let's try bigger okay

145
00:06:43,160 --> 00:06:48,639
one two oh okay let's

146
00:06:48,680 --> 00:06:54,160
go o that was soft don't you think I I

147
00:06:54,160 --> 00:06:57,039
was too scared to think so despite

148
00:06:57,039 --> 00:06:59,400
nearly pulling my Blair into the first

149
00:06:59,400 --> 00:07:02,080
bolt and colliding with him the

150
00:07:02,080 --> 00:07:05,160
horizontal speed again was nearly

151
00:07:05,160 --> 00:07:07,800
identical so at least in this test case

152
00:07:07,800 --> 00:07:10,639
scenario falling more combined with soft

153
00:07:10,639 --> 00:07:14,879
catch had no benefits but as they say

154
00:07:14,879 --> 00:07:18,199
one test is no test and that's why I was

155
00:07:18,199 --> 00:07:20,919
rigging another one in the spot where we

156
00:07:20,919 --> 00:07:25,599
will be able to do even bigger Falls

157
00:07:26,080 --> 00:07:29,800
falling hardish so we started with zero

158
00:07:29,800 --> 00:07:32,280
amount of slack and Charlie giving the

159
00:07:32,280 --> 00:07:35,680
softest catch he can however the fall

160
00:07:35,680 --> 00:07:40,000
was described as hard

161
00:07:41,400 --> 00:07:42,919
dish

162
00:07:42,919 --> 00:07:48,720
ready yeah one two three

163
00:07:48,720 --> 00:07:52,240
falling softer and this time adding a

164
00:07:52,240 --> 00:07:55,240
little bit of slack felt softer for the

165
00:07:55,240 --> 00:07:57,879
climber and also did reduce the

166
00:07:57,879 --> 00:08:01,599
horizontal speed by a little bit so

167
00:08:01,599 --> 00:08:03,680
let's see what happens with even bigger

168
00:08:03,680 --> 00:08:08,280
Falls you good whenever you want one two

169
00:08:08,280 --> 00:08:10,039
three

170
00:08:10,039 --> 00:08:14,400
falling take a big pop very soft very

171
00:08:14,400 --> 00:08:17,680
soft and if we look into the graphs the

172
00:08:17,680 --> 00:08:22,039
horizontal speed was even lower this

173
00:08:22,039 --> 00:08:26,039
time so we went even bigger to 1 and 1

174
00:08:26,039 --> 00:08:30,000
half M of slack which is quite a lot one

175
00:08:30,000 --> 00:08:32,240
two three

176
00:08:32,240 --> 00:08:34,320
falling

177
00:08:34,320 --> 00:08:36,919
woo that was soft but there was this

178
00:08:36,919 --> 00:08:41,800
kind of D yeah yeah I I noticed it

179
00:08:41,800 --> 00:08:44,240
myself so this time the climber felt

180
00:08:44,240 --> 00:08:47,160
more jerk on the initial impact of the

181
00:08:47,160 --> 00:08:50,399
Rope however the horizontal speed was

182
00:08:50,399 --> 00:08:53,440
further reduced and looking into all of

183
00:08:53,440 --> 00:08:55,519
these faults we can clearly see

184
00:08:55,519 --> 00:08:58,120
correlation how increasing the amount of

185
00:08:58,120 --> 00:09:00,519
slack decrease reles the horizontal

186
00:09:00,519 --> 00:09:02,040
speed into the

187
00:09:02,040 --> 00:09:04,680
wall and since that was contradicting

188
00:09:04,680 --> 00:09:07,519
with our previous findings we had to do

189
00:09:07,519 --> 00:09:10,959
more Falls and in this scenario falling

190
00:09:10,959 --> 00:09:14,200
more was also better you can even see

191
00:09:14,200 --> 00:09:16,920
the visual

192
00:09:21,240 --> 00:09:24,240
difference and here is one more example

193
00:09:24,240 --> 00:09:26,519
this time the climber was falling from

194
00:09:26,519 --> 00:09:30,040
lower position and we had less friction

195
00:09:30,040 --> 00:09:33,120
once again falling more had softer

196
00:09:33,120 --> 00:09:36,120
impact with the wall so a summary of

197
00:09:36,120 --> 00:09:38,279
this segment is that the swing or the

198
00:09:38,279 --> 00:09:41,320
pendulum into the wall can be reduced by

199
00:09:41,320 --> 00:09:44,800
extra slack however if you exceed R's

200
00:09:44,800 --> 00:09:47,399
ability to absorb the impact the Rope

201
00:09:47,399 --> 00:09:49,399
will bounce the climber back into the

202
00:09:49,399 --> 00:09:53,160
wall and then things might be even worse

203
00:09:53,160 --> 00:09:56,120
and obviously falling more gets you

204
00:09:56,120 --> 00:09:59,560
closer to exceeding that limit but more

205
00:09:59,560 --> 00:10:02,720
importantly hard catch can get you there

206
00:10:02,720 --> 00:10:05,839
very quickly so for example here is one

207
00:10:05,839 --> 00:10:08,160
of the most common mistakes where the

208
00:10:08,160 --> 00:10:11,880
bler simply throws a ton of slack but no

209
00:10:11,880 --> 00:10:14,240
effort in making a soft

210
00:10:14,240 --> 00:10:17,240
catch

211
00:10:21,240 --> 00:10:24,440
okay and here is another one first a

212
00:10:24,440 --> 00:10:26,399
soft

213
00:10:26,399 --> 00:10:31,040
catch and now a hard one

214
00:10:32,040 --> 00:10:35,839
that okay we had the same amount of

215
00:10:35,839 --> 00:10:40,560
slack but the difference was

216
00:10:41,959 --> 00:10:44,560
massive you can clearly see the

217
00:10:44,560 --> 00:10:47,320
bounceback effect how the climber is

218
00:10:47,320 --> 00:10:49,279
being pulled back

219
00:10:49,279 --> 00:10:52,440
up what was your

220
00:10:52,440 --> 00:10:55,560
impressions one elbow versus two elbows

221
00:10:55,560 --> 00:10:59,440
versus three elbows no elbows between

222
00:10:59,440 --> 00:11:02,760
one elbow and two you'll have to measure

223
00:11:02,760 --> 00:11:04,839
that mass masso menos more or less what

224
00:11:04,839 --> 00:11:07,000
it's going to be but I think that's The

225
00:11:07,000 --> 00:11:11,279
Sweet Spot how was no slack at all

226
00:11:11,279 --> 00:11:14,720
difficult to give the soft catch it's

227
00:11:14,720 --> 00:11:16,480
difficult to give the soft catch yeah

228
00:11:16,480 --> 00:11:19,959
with no slag is really hard

229
00:11:19,959 --> 00:11:23,560
to hit the timing perfectly yeah so what

230
00:11:23,560 --> 00:11:26,600
we all noticed is that with zero slack

231
00:11:26,600 --> 00:11:28,519
it's really hard to give a soft catch

232
00:11:28,519 --> 00:11:31,000
because you don't have enough time to go

233
00:11:31,000 --> 00:11:34,000
down and jump up maybe with the

234
00:11:34,000 --> 00:11:36,320
exception If the fall is really big then

235
00:11:36,320 --> 00:11:38,440
the climber is falling for quite a while

236
00:11:38,440 --> 00:11:40,839
and then you have time but on very very

237
00:11:40,839 --> 00:11:42,959
small Falls you would have to have some

238
00:11:42,959 --> 00:11:46,120
cat reflexes and go like super fast but

239
00:11:46,120 --> 00:11:48,160
in general the most comfortable was

240
00:11:48,160 --> 00:11:51,120
between half to full arm of slack and

241
00:11:51,120 --> 00:11:53,200
that caused the softest catches for the

242
00:11:53,200 --> 00:11:57,120
climbers and more than that is very very

243
00:11:57,120 --> 00:11:59,600
rarely beneficial and simp simply asking

244
00:11:59,600 --> 00:12:02,160
for some collisions or dragging the

245
00:12:02,160 --> 00:12:05,519
blayer into the first bolt or simply a

246
00:12:05,519 --> 00:12:07,600
bunch of extra Pull-Ups for the climber

247
00:12:07,600 --> 00:12:10,279
after the fall and uh the bigger ones

248
00:12:10,279 --> 00:12:12,880
like three elbows like I say between one

249
00:12:12,880 --> 00:12:15,399
and two elbows is The Sweet Spot like

250
00:12:15,399 --> 00:12:19,760
one and two is more or less the same for

251
00:12:19,760 --> 00:12:24,760
me personally three is also softer Anna

252
00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:28,959
says but just a little bit harder to

253
00:12:28,959 --> 00:12:31,279
judge again but it's harder to judge

254
00:12:31,279 --> 00:12:33,760
when to jump mhm the EAS the climber is

255
00:12:33,760 --> 00:12:36,399
falling faster already exactly exactly

256
00:12:36,399 --> 00:12:38,399
now I can see how lightweight blers are

257
00:12:38,399 --> 00:12:40,800
probably already typing no slack for me

258
00:12:40,800 --> 00:12:43,600
I fly up anyway so we actually did

259
00:12:43,600 --> 00:12:45,440
testing on that and we got some

260
00:12:45,440 --> 00:12:48,000
interesting results but before that I

261
00:12:48,000 --> 00:12:50,320
just wanted to quickly say thank you for

262
00:12:50,320 --> 00:12:53,160
all my friends and supporters who helped

263
00:12:53,160 --> 00:12:55,600
in creating all of this study it's been

264
00:12:55,600 --> 00:12:58,079
the biggest project I've ever tried both

265
00:12:58,079 --> 00:13:01,480
in terms of time and energy and money so

266
00:13:01,480 --> 00:13:03,519
it would definitely not be possible

267
00:13:03,519 --> 00:13:07,000
without all of you so huge thank you and

268
00:13:07,000 --> 00:13:09,440
now back to lightweight blers so we

269
00:13:09,440 --> 00:13:12,560
started with zero

270
00:13:12,560 --> 00:13:15,079
slack wa that looked

271
00:13:15,079 --> 00:13:19,160
harder yeah visually and we can already

272
00:13:19,160 --> 00:13:22,160
see something interesting once the robe

273
00:13:22,160 --> 00:13:24,560
gets tight the speed of the climber

274
00:13:24,560 --> 00:13:28,279
starts to drop however as soon as the

275
00:13:28,279 --> 00:13:31,839
blay is pulled off the ground the speed

276
00:13:31,839 --> 00:13:34,839
of the climber starts to increase again

277
00:13:34,839 --> 00:13:39,440
the climber experiences a double fall

278
00:13:41,160 --> 00:13:44,920
effect okay let's increase the amount of

279
00:13:44,920 --> 00:13:48,160
slack we still get this double fall

280
00:13:48,160 --> 00:13:51,880
effect but the horizontal speed is

281
00:13:51,880 --> 00:13:54,160
reduced so let's go

282
00:13:54,160 --> 00:13:57,560
bigger and here we have the same pattern

283
00:13:57,560 --> 00:14:00,880
a double fall but the horizontal speed

284
00:14:00,880 --> 00:14:03,000
is even further

285
00:14:03,000 --> 00:14:06,120
reduced so let's try even bigger with

286
00:14:06,120 --> 00:14:09,920
crazy one and a half arms of

287
00:14:09,920 --> 00:14:16,000
slack you ready yeah three two one soft

288
00:14:16,000 --> 00:14:19,199
catch and here the double fall effect is

289
00:14:19,199 --> 00:14:22,079
very visible but same as in previous

290
00:14:22,079 --> 00:14:24,560
experiments we see a strong correlation

291
00:14:24,560 --> 00:14:27,320
that the bigger the fall the slower the

292
00:14:27,320 --> 00:14:30,160
horizontal speed for the climber so the

293
00:14:30,160 --> 00:14:32,880
softer impact with the wall and while

294
00:14:32,880 --> 00:14:36,240
that wasn't a surprise what was however

295
00:14:36,240 --> 00:14:39,800
a surprise is when we swapped her and me

296
00:14:39,800 --> 00:14:41,720
naturally I was expecting that the

297
00:14:41,720 --> 00:14:44,480
heavier Blair should cause a harder

298
00:14:44,480 --> 00:14:47,800
catch for the climber but if we compare

299
00:14:47,800 --> 00:14:52,720
Anna's no slack versus mine you can see

300
00:14:52,720 --> 00:14:57,680
that my catch was significantly

301
00:14:57,680 --> 00:15:00,000
softer

302
00:15:00,000 --> 00:15:03,759
and here is Anna's half arm of slack

303
00:15:03,759 --> 00:15:06,600
compared to

304
00:15:06,720 --> 00:15:10,240
mine and same results my catch was

305
00:15:10,240 --> 00:15:13,720
softer again and to be fair we were

306
00:15:13,720 --> 00:15:17,360
asking her to give a soft catch

307
00:15:17,360 --> 00:15:21,000
one two and give a soft catch you ready

308
00:15:21,000 --> 00:15:25,480
yeah soft catch on three 2

309
00:15:27,600 --> 00:15:32,959
1 and finally Anna's full arm of

310
00:15:32,959 --> 00:15:36,600
slack versus

311
00:15:37,279 --> 00:15:40,680
mine and to my surprise I was giving

312
00:15:40,680 --> 00:15:43,480
softer catches for the climber than the

313
00:15:43,480 --> 00:15:44,480
lighter

314
00:15:44,480 --> 00:15:47,079
belayer however I think this has more to

315
00:15:47,079 --> 00:15:49,240
do with the fact that lighter blers

316
00:15:49,240 --> 00:15:52,000
usually fly up anyway so they don't have

317
00:15:52,000 --> 00:15:55,639
enough practice to give soft catches but

318
00:15:55,639 --> 00:15:58,120
let me give you another example so this

319
00:15:58,120 --> 00:16:02,399
experiment was slightly different 118

320
00:16:02,399 --> 00:16:05,639
here Me and Charlie did a bunch of soft

321
00:16:05,639 --> 00:16:08,160
catches but this time we measured the

322
00:16:08,160 --> 00:16:11,079
forces to the climber this was the

323
00:16:11,079 --> 00:16:13,920
average line of Charlie's catches this

324
00:16:13,920 --> 00:16:16,959
was mine and this was the average of

325
00:16:16,959 --> 00:16:20,240
averages and we also did some hard

326
00:16:20,240 --> 00:16:23,759
catches for the

327
00:16:25,120 --> 00:16:28,360
reference that was much harder all right

328
00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:32,199
and now let's compare this to a light

329
00:16:32,199 --> 00:16:36,839
Blair no no and the first catch was

330
00:16:36,839 --> 00:16:41,759
really bad in fact as hard as our heart

331
00:16:41,759 --> 00:16:44,519
catches you jumped way too soon you've

332
00:16:44,519 --> 00:16:47,199
got to wait till she sucks you you're

333
00:16:47,199 --> 00:16:48,720
down here and when you can feel her

334
00:16:48,720 --> 00:16:52,360
sucking you you push up with

335
00:16:52,880 --> 00:16:55,519
her look at her once she starts falling

336
00:16:55,519 --> 00:17:00,480
you go down up I am getting scared

337
00:17:01,560 --> 00:17:03,680
come

338
00:17:07,199 --> 00:17:10,679
on no now the second catch was much

339
00:17:10,679 --> 00:17:14,160
better but still not what we were

340
00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:18,360
expecting so we did some

341
00:17:18,360 --> 00:17:22,799
practicing oh that was super soft

342
00:17:22,959 --> 00:17:27,120
falling and then this

343
00:17:27,400 --> 00:17:28,919
happened

344
00:17:28,919 --> 00:17:33,919
that look quite nice 12

345
00:17:33,919 --> 00:17:36,960
121 so as you can see experience plays a

346
00:17:36,960 --> 00:17:39,799
bigger role than being lighter and

347
00:17:39,799 --> 00:17:42,400
although lighter blares very rarely

348
00:17:42,400 --> 00:17:44,400
cause hard catches for

349
00:17:44,400 --> 00:17:47,520
climbers however with enough friction

350
00:17:47,520 --> 00:17:50,280
light Blair becomes heavy and actually

351
00:17:50,280 --> 00:17:53,120
recently I saw one really nasty fall

352
00:17:53,120 --> 00:17:55,400
where a bler was a light girl a climber

353
00:17:55,400 --> 00:17:57,760
was relatively light girl a lot of

354
00:17:57,760 --> 00:18:02,000
friction and a huge slam into the wall

355
00:18:02,000 --> 00:18:04,799
and then a poor girl had to get

356
00:18:04,799 --> 00:18:06,960
assistance to get back to the

357
00:18:06,960 --> 00:18:10,799
car and I'm curious did you ever got

358
00:18:10,799 --> 00:18:13,520
unexpectedly hard catch from a light

359
00:18:13,520 --> 00:18:15,720
blayer write down in the comments I want

360
00:18:15,720 --> 00:18:18,760
to see how often that happens all right

361
00:18:18,760 --> 00:18:21,720
so we have seen how both slack and soft

362
00:18:21,720 --> 00:18:25,320
catch has a big effect on the fall but

363
00:18:25,320 --> 00:18:28,840
there is something even more important

364
00:18:28,840 --> 00:18:33,080
here is a hard catch with no

365
00:18:34,880 --> 00:18:37,720
slack and here is a soft catch with a

366
00:18:37,720 --> 00:18:40,200
little bit of slack so we can see the

367
00:18:40,200 --> 00:18:43,720
best and the worst case

368
00:18:44,000 --> 00:18:47,000
scenarios but now check what happens

369
00:18:47,000 --> 00:18:49,679
when the Climber Falls from slightly

370
00:18:49,679 --> 00:18:52,080
different position I simply changed my

371
00:18:52,080 --> 00:18:56,840
legs but I was not pushing away from the

372
00:18:57,320 --> 00:19:00,320
wall

373
00:19:00,370 --> 00:19:02,530
[Music]

374
00:19:02,530 --> 00:19:04,910
[Laughter]

375
00:19:04,910 --> 00:19:10,719
[Music]

376
00:19:11,240 --> 00:19:14,520
I anticipa a bit too much there that's

377
00:19:14,520 --> 00:19:15,760
why you wear a

378
00:19:15,760 --> 00:19:18,039
helmet that would have been a what was

379
00:19:18,039 --> 00:19:20,200
it a trip straight to the yard a trip

380
00:19:20,200 --> 00:19:23,720
straight to the yard that would be

381
00:19:23,720 --> 00:19:26,720
go but if we look into the graphs we can

382
00:19:26,720 --> 00:19:28,840
see that this new fall

383
00:19:28,840 --> 00:19:32,400
had harder fall than the hard catch

384
00:19:32,400 --> 00:19:35,000
before despite Charlie trying to give it

385
00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:37,159
a soft catch with his

386
00:19:37,159 --> 00:19:40,240
head so as you can see how the Climber

387
00:19:40,240 --> 00:19:42,320
Falls can be more important than the

388
00:19:42,320 --> 00:19:46,200
amount of slack or a soft catch and here

389
00:19:46,200 --> 00:19:48,159
sometimes you can see beginners pushing

390
00:19:48,159 --> 00:19:51,080
away from the wall during the fall and

391
00:19:51,080 --> 00:19:53,280
combine that with another inexperienced

392
00:19:53,280 --> 00:19:55,559
delayer and a hard catch and that's a

393
00:19:55,559 --> 00:19:59,000
good recipe for sprained ankles so so do

394
00:19:59,000 --> 00:20:02,480
not push it's very rarely beneficial to

395
00:20:02,480 --> 00:20:04,520
push away unless you're clearing some

396
00:20:04,520 --> 00:20:08,840
kind of slab but otherwise do not push

397
00:20:08,840 --> 00:20:11,080
now in the second part of this study I

398
00:20:11,080 --> 00:20:13,559
wanted to figure out which blay method

399
00:20:13,559 --> 00:20:16,840
is the best so we compared jumping up

400
00:20:16,840 --> 00:20:20,280
versus stepping forward and also does

401
00:20:20,280 --> 00:20:23,640
that change if the player is heavier or

402
00:20:23,640 --> 00:20:26,280
there is a lot of friction in the system

403
00:20:26,280 --> 00:20:28,520
but since all of this is already SL slly

404
00:20:28,520 --> 00:20:30,600
different topic I'm going to split all

405
00:20:30,600 --> 00:20:33,960
of this in a part two of this video but

406
00:20:33,960 --> 00:20:35,559
before you go I wanted to share

407
00:20:35,559 --> 00:20:37,400
something with you that you might find

408
00:20:37,400 --> 00:20:39,919
beneficial in order to create these nice

409
00:20:39,919 --> 00:20:42,000
charts that you have seen in this video

410
00:20:42,000 --> 00:20:44,320
I needed to understand how to take my

411
00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:47,200
messy experimental data and perform a

412
00:20:47,200 --> 00:20:50,600
polom fitting this allows to obtain a

413
00:20:50,600 --> 00:20:53,720
smooth graph that don't lose important

414
00:20:53,720 --> 00:20:56,880
points and chances are if you're like me

415
00:20:56,880 --> 00:20:59,520
math and physics might not be our main

416
00:20:59,520 --> 00:21:01,799
career path and our abilities to

417
00:21:01,799 --> 00:21:03,760
understand such topics either never

418
00:21:03,760 --> 00:21:06,640
existed or are already fading away since

419
00:21:06,640 --> 00:21:08,760
the last time we sat in calculus or

420
00:21:08,760 --> 00:21:11,360
physics class and that's why I've been

421
00:21:11,360 --> 00:21:14,440
really enjoying brilliant.org it's the

422
00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:17,039
best way to learn math data science and

423
00:21:17,039 --> 00:21:19,440
computer science interactively in

424
00:21:19,440 --> 00:21:21,679
general I see two problems of learning

425
00:21:21,679 --> 00:21:24,559
Advanced topics the first one is not

426
00:21:24,559 --> 00:21:27,559
having enough building blocks that lead

427
00:21:27,559 --> 00:21:31,000
into more advanced subjects that's why I

428
00:21:31,000 --> 00:21:32,679
really love their new feature of

429
00:21:32,679 --> 00:21:34,880
learning paths where the platform

430
00:21:34,880 --> 00:21:37,200
progressively guides you from the very

431
00:21:37,200 --> 00:21:39,919
Basics to more and more complicated and

432
00:21:39,919 --> 00:21:42,360
interesting topics personally I'm nearly

433
00:21:42,360 --> 00:21:44,679
done with foundational math and now I

434
00:21:44,679 --> 00:21:47,279
feel more than ready to dive into data

435
00:21:47,279 --> 00:21:50,279
science and physics that's my two recent

436
00:21:50,279 --> 00:21:52,440
interests and the second reason which

437
00:21:52,440 --> 00:21:54,679
stops us from taking on such learnings

438
00:21:54,679 --> 00:21:58,720
is that it might feel like oh it might

439
00:21:58,720 --> 00:22:01,679
take forever to understand these topics

440
00:22:01,679 --> 00:22:04,600
however just 15 to 20 minutes a day

441
00:22:04,600 --> 00:22:08,240
equals to 100 hours a year and in 100

442
00:22:08,240 --> 00:22:10,919
hours you can learn a lot of things and

443
00:22:10,919 --> 00:22:13,919
greatly expand your Curiosity on life so

444
00:22:13,919 --> 00:22:15,400
if you're curious you can try

445
00:22:15,400 --> 00:22:18,240
brilliant.org completely for free for 30

446
00:22:18,240 --> 00:22:20,919
days by visiting brilliant.org Hardis

447
00:22:20,919 --> 00:22:22,799
easy or by clicking the link in the

448
00:22:22,799 --> 00:22:25,559
description and the first 200 of you can

449
00:22:25,559 --> 00:22:28,440
also get 20% of their premium annual

450
00:22:28,440 --> 00:22:30,960
subscriptions so thank you brilliant.org

451
00:22:30,960 --> 00:22:33,760
team for making curious humans and

452
00:22:33,760 --> 00:22:36,679
supporting my mega researchers and thank

453
00:22:36,679 --> 00:22:41,559
you curious human for watching my mega

454
00:22:41,559 --> 00:22:46,480
researches see you in the next one