WEBVTT
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it's kind of good that
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this has happened to you
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it's kind of good that this
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has happened to me
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and that i survived
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yeah if that was closer to the ground
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it would have been a ground fall
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yeah actually if i would have fallen
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not from the anchor
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but few quickdraws lower
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good job you've got a YouTube channel
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because yeah
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that's sketchy
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good job you can share that with people
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i think
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yeah
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so most of the time
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i get sketchy situation
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that i share on my youtube
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from my followers
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however this time it was me
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I took a whipper from
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the top of the route
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literally from the anchor
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and i instantly realized that this fall
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is not normal
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I kept falling and falling and falling
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and it's just accelerating
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and then boom sudden stop
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I look down to my belayer
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she's maybe few meters up the ground
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which looks normal
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i look up
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at the distance that I fell
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and that is completely not normal
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first question immediately was
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how much slack did you have
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did you just gave me 15 arms of slack?
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and she was like
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no, there was absolutely no slack
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in the system
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shocked, scared, confused
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so i decided to
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go up and try it again
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but this time
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i took half of that fall as a test fall
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to see what's gonna happen
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and the same thing happened again
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i'm just falling falling falling...
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boom sudden stop
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I look down, my belayer is
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only one meter off the ground this time
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and she's claiming that she had
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absolutely no slack this time
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but the fall was equally giant
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so by that time my pants were already
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quite full
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so i asked her to lower me
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and i wanted to investigate
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what's happening
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and i found out what's happening
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this was
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what was happening
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ok go
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boy
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scary grigri noises
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one, two, three...
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aaaaah
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there you go
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here we go
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that was a lot
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so basically i got a kink and it stopped
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and I was not pressing on the cam
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so yeah the rope was slipping through the
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grigri
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and the reason was basically a
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combination of three different things
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first is that we used very skinny rope
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this was 9.0 millimeters rope it's not a
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brand new rope however it's still in a
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great condition and it doesn't have any
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fuzz so it's still very very slippery it
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goes through grigri very easily
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as a side note petzl says that the optimal
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rope diameter for the grigri is between
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8.9 and 10 and a half millimeters so
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this rope definitely falls in that range
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but it slides very smoothly through the
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grigri
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now the second reason was
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was friction the rope went over multiple
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angles on the rock and zigzagged between
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the quickdraws
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so despite me taking a big whipper
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which normally would result
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into hard "yank" on the belayer or on the
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belay device
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and would definitely lock it
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this time the force to the belaying device
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wasn't that hard because it was
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absorbed in the friction
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and the final, the third reason
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or the moment of
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oh sh*t
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or aha!
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was the following
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when we hold the grigri in our hand we are
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supposed to have a good grip on the rope
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however we get so comfortable that this
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grip becomes very loose
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and in this position
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the rope can go through the grigri
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very easily because it creates
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this nice angle feeding into the grigri
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if I would remove the hand from here the
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angle becomes way more steep and the
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grigri is more grabby
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also the grigri grabs more if the rope
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going to the climber is more forward
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facing, so in this position grigri grabs
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more however in this position grigri
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doesn't grab as much in fact it almost
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doesn't grab at all
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so this is what happened
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the route was quite overhanging
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and had a lip after which
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belayer couldn't see me anymore
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so she was standing directly
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under the first bolt
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and as I explained the angle of the
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climber's end of the rope is important
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in how much the grigri will grab
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if you would walk a bit forward
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then this angle becomes even negative
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and the grigri is even less likely to grab
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then combined with with the habit
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of holding the brake side of the rope
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"holding"
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loosely in your hand
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which is not holding at all
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and combined with the fact that
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she couldn't see me
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and she had no idea when I'm going to fall
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resulted into the rope flying
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through her hand
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until at some point luckily she tugged
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on the rope
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and i got a really hard catch
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luckily
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that was just in time cos
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you're falling every millisecond faster
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and faster and faster
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and i could have been on the ground
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so the takeaway is that
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you have to subscribe and if you want
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extra Karma points you can visit my
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website and don't get lazy hold your rope
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don't expect grigri auto magically
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grab you no matter what
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because it might not as I just showed you
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from my experience
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so I'm happy that this happened to me
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I'm happy that I can share this story
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with you so it doesn't happen to you
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and see you in the next video :)